Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2009, Spring: Mojave National Preserve / Day 1: Baker, California to Cornfield Spring, Mojave National Preserve 46
Yesterday, Amtrak train and bus rides took me from home in San José to Baker, California, just outside Mojave National Preserve, where I stayed at the Wills Fargo Motel waiting for my trip to start today.
Today I ride from Baker to Mojave National Preserve's Kelso Depot on the paved Kelbaker Road, and then a couple of miles up an old, rocky track toward Cornfield Spring.
I incur a bit of heat exhaustion along the way and need to take frequent rest stops all day long. The high temperature recorded today in Baker is 98F (36C), which is a bit much for a largely uphill first day during which I'm trying to acclimate to the 10-ton bike.
37.1 bicycle miles with elevation changing from 925 feet at Baker, to 3700 feet at the Kelbaker Road summit, to 2120 feet at Kelso, to 2300 feet on Cornfield Spring Road. Total elevation gain: about 2950 feet.
Yesterday morning I left home and rode to the San José Amtrak station for my rides to Baker, California
Another bike shared the bike rack with me aboard the Amtrak San Joaquin train yesterday
The Amtrak bus left the 10-ton bike and I in Baker, California, gateway to Mojave National Preserve, near the end of the day
The "world's tallest thermometer" displayed 93 degrees F (33C) when I got here yesterday
I stayed at the Wills Fargo Motel last night instead of at the tacky Royal Hawaiian Motel down the road
I get up early this morning and walk down the road for the breakfast buffet at the Big Boy restaurant by the big thermometer
After breakfast, I walk over to the Starbuck's in town to pick up a pound of coffee for the trip
I also need to fill up on water before I leave Baker, so I make a stop at Alien Fresh Jerky
Non-descript Baker is mostly gas stations, fast-food joints and convenience stores, but here's an old boxcar in a vacant lot
It appears that the old Baker boxcar is being used as a storage shed
The Baker Country Store ran out of tea bags, so I go to the ridiculously expensive Baker Market to see if they have any in stock
All stocked up, I get on Kelbaker Road and leave Baker, crossing the I-15 freeway before entering Mojave National Preserve
Obligatory tourist photo at the Mojave National Preserve entrance on Kelbaker Road
The first 10 miles of Kelbaker Road upon leaving Baker is long and straight and rises from 925 feet to 2000 feet
It hasn't taken long for the hot sun to fry me; I stop for several short breaks on this nearly flat stretch of Kelbaker Road
At the 10-mile point on Kelbaker Road, "the big curve," it's time for another break.
At the Kelbaker Road curve, I pull out on a dirt road and suck back more of my warm water
A bit further up Kelbaker Road: near mile 12, an oncoming pickup brakes and its driver shouts, "I love your web site!"
Energized by my chat with Brian, I start thinking about taking another short break, this time by the lava flows
I park the 10-ton bike at the edge of the lava flow and go for a walk up the hill
Sure enough, rock art is to be found up there
Antique graffiti?
A faint hum oozes out of the lava, and it's not the spirit of the rock art whispering at me through the silence
Staying away from the yellowjackets (I'm highly allergic), I walk back down to the 10-ton bike at Kelbaker Road
I remount the 10-ton bike and continue my trek up Kelbaker Road as it winds around the edge of lava flows
Rainy Day Mine Road is the location of my next short break
OK, back on Kelbaker Road, I'll tackle a little more of this slow, hot hill
Aiken Mine Road/Jackass Canyon Road junction is the next stop on my Kelbaker Road death climb
I pace back and forth with my arms extended for maximum air flow, like a cat stretched out on the floor on a hot day
The final four miles of the normally easy climb to the Kelbaker Road summit at the power lines have never been so challenging
Kelbaker Road summit at 3700 feet elevation; I'm there, finally!
The 12-mile gradual descent to Kelso is fun, but I usually have a headwind that slows me down considerably, like I do today
The vegetation on the foothills of the adjacent Kelso Mountains is striking with its silver-grey brush against yellow flowers
Still heading downhill into the Kelso Valley, now approaching the town of Kelso, that ribbon of buildings
Kelso Depot Visitor Centre, Mojave National Preserve, former 1920s train station restored in 2005
While lingering in the shade of the Kelso Depot waiting platform, I chat with a couple on their first visit to the Preserve
Desert willows bloom and attract hummingbirds outside the Kelso Depot bathroom building
I look across the tracks and beyond the handful of houses that are Kelso toward Cornfield Spring, my destination
I glance back at Kelso Depot as I start riding up the sandy road to Cornfield Spring
The road to Cornfield Spring gets a bit rougher
Cornfield Spring Road becomes a track of small rocks plowed out of the alluvial fan
I'm still a couple of miles away from Cornfield Spring when I notice a small clearing that might make a good campsite
My Cornfield Spring Road campsite is born in time for me to enjoy the colourful end-of-day glow of the desert sunset
The beauty and serenity of a desert sunset tends to recompense for any hardships incurred during the day's work
Baker, California to Cornfield Spring via Kelbaker Road and Kelso Depot, Mojave National Preserve (Day 1)
Elevation profile: Baker, California to Cornfield Spring via Kelbaker Road and Kelso Depot, Mojave National Preserve (Day 1)