Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / Spring 2011: Mojave National Preserve and area bicycle camping / Day 4: Searchlight to Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve by bicycle 56
A wave of happiness sets in when I set up camp at the end of Castle Peaks Road. Back in Searchlight, I was starting to feel a bit "bla." 26 bicycle miles and about 2000 feet of elevation gain. I drink about 3 litres of water and eat two energy bars on today's ride, plus some chocolate (yum!).
- Breakfast in Searchlight means McDonald's again (ugh); I admire the old Colton Mine headframe on the way back to my motel room
I kept waking up with weird dreams all night long, but always fell back asleep instantly. I have a "big breakfast" (scrambled eggs, hotcakes, biscuit, sausage and hash-brown patty) plus an extra Egg McMuffin. McDonald's iced coffee is surprisingly decent, but it takes special effort for them to make it black for me (not put milk in it). - Looking down the street in Searchlight, I can see the forecast rain clouds hovering over the mountains where I'll be headed soon
I'm a bit apprehensive about today's ride to the New York Mountains since the winds are still really strong, and sporadic thunderstorms are in the day's forecast. - I think I'm leaving the Searchlight motel early, but the cleaning woman also arrives early, reminding me that check-out is 10h
Ooops, for some reason I thought check-out was 11h. No problem, I'm on my way out anyway... I pack up the 10-ton bike and add a full load of water on my front rack, making for heavy steering today, and off I go. - My first stop upon leaving the Searchlight motel is the old mining residences just across the road
This house is fairly large and has an interesting "eye" window protruding from the hipped roof. - Nearby is a second building, a small cabin: all this in "downtown Searchlight"
The small, later addition built onto the front of the cabin is about half as large as the cabin itself! - In the backyard sits a small outbuilding
The wires leading to it tell that it even had electricity. - A major luxury...
There's even a bit of sunshine in here. - Another luxury: an old hot water heater
Today's water heaters are wider than these old narrow ones. All design standards seem to evolve over the years... - And perhaps the biggest luxury of them all: electricity
The wiring here is the old knob-and-tube style, which one still occasionally finds in a functional state in old houses. - From behind the old miner's cabin, I look across the highway to last night's Searchlight motel
Nice cholla-cactus and creosote-bush garden! - OK, time to start today's ride; I start riding down Nevada 164 into the grey clouds
Not only do I have a headwind, but it's a bit chilly today and it looks like it's raining on my route ahead (and I don't have a raincoat). I'm wearing my sweater, which I wouldn't expect to need in the Mojave Desert sunshine in late May. - I spot a nice clump of pink buckwheat flowers along Highway 164 on the way out of Searchlight
Suddenly, while checking my cell phone, I realize that I had a one-hour time-zone change while I was in Searchlight. I hadn't even noticed, since my life out here isn't all that time-oriented. - From Nevada 164, I zoom in across the valley and see some rain clouds over the Castle Peaks, my destination today
The wet-weather system looks like it's moving off to the right (north). Good! - As I head into the clouds on Nevada 164, I see a little sunny spot on the road ahead
Will the sunny spot still be there when I reach that point? The headwind here is pretty strong and makes for slow, awkward riding. But I'm in no rush, just enjoying the ride and the scenery. - Indeed, the sunny spot on Nevada 164 stays put and I ride into it
The skid marks on the road go well with the deer-crossing warning sign. Some nice yellow blooms, probably desert marigolds, decorate the roadside here. I'll turn left at Walking Box Ranch Rd, just ahead. - I reach Walking Box Ranch Road and it's time to ride up that way and leave pavement for a few days
Despite the sunshine, I'm getting a few rain sprinkles here. If it starts raining in earnest, I may need to take shelter somewhere around the Walking Box Ranch buildings just up the road. - A row of 6 SUVs has stopped by the Walking Box Ranch, apparently preparing for a ride into the rain clouds ahead, like me
Perhaps a 4WD group ride? One of them is carrying a bicycle on the vehicle. The drivers are busy talking. I take a break nearby, but don't interrupt their party. - I take a short break over by the Walking Box Ranch entrance; it's not open to the public, but it's nice to look at
There are still a few rain sprinkles, but not enough to matter. Desert rain always smells great. I eat a Clif bar, change my GPS batteries, and transfer some water to my Camelbak, which is already down to the halfway level. - I pass the stationary 4WD folks and begin my ride up Walking Box Ranch Road; they soon depart too and pass me, one by one
Several of them wave as they pass, nice, fellow dirt-roaders that we are. - After half an hour, I take a short break at an old corral on Walking Box Ranch Road where I've stopped before
I can still, at times, get a glimpse of Searchlight on the other side of the valley from this area. - I'm often looking back behind me toward Nevada 164 and the Highland Range to take in the cloud formations
Walking Box Ranch Road is an easy ride; rather bumpy, and best done on a mountain bike, but only slightly uphill. Good views and low stress (no traffic) make for a good bicycle ride. - Though mostly gradual, Walking Box Ranch Road does have a few short rolling hills
I enjoy the views of Hart Peak and the Castle Mountains ahead when I ride Walking Box Ranch Road. - Looking back on Walking Box Ranch Road, it looks stormy over toward the McCullough Mountains where I camped 2 days ago
It's perhaps a bit wet over at Las Vegas too. Scattered severe thunderstorms were forecast for today, but I've been lucky enough so far to have missed them. - As Walking Box Ranch Road approaches the California border, I pass another old corral
The old dirt road behind it leads to the Malpais Spring area, where I camped on last spring's trip. I didn't try riding that road though to get there, however. - Here and there on Walking Box Ranch Road are bits of residual old pavement
The road was formerly maintained as an "oiled road." - I'm feeling happy now that I'm seeing views of the Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve
I've crossed the border and am now in California again, but I'm not in Mojave National Preserve just yet: that will be coming shortly. - Walking Box Ranch Road is a "Road Not Maintained" on the California side of the border
For an unmaintained road, this is actually not bad at all. People in cushy cars and not used to mountain biking might think otherwise though. - I pass the Castle Mountains area, just outside Mojave National Preserve, and remind myself to visit this area in the future
My campsite near Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve, last spring had a view of these hills. - I'm going to leave Walking Box Ranch Road here and follow this smaller road at my left toward Castle Peaks
A few minutes ago, I passed a car, which turned out to be from the "4WD group" I saw earlier (biologists, actually). It was enjoyable talking to the driver, who has knowledge of this area. He pointed out that the old power lines on Walking Box Ranch Road had been recently removed. I hadn't noticed, but as soon as he mentioned it, I remembered those power lines from previous trips here. - My new road, which I've not been on before, immediately drops into a sand-and-gravel drainage area
Uh oh, I hope this isn't one of these impossible desert roads. I consider turning around and following the longer, but more predictable route around this area, but decide to continue a bit further first, in case the road improves. - Phew, my road rises out of the gravel onto a smooth surface and passes a "Entering Mojave National Preserve" sign
I'm glad to be back! Now that I'm out of the wash, I notice that this road is abnormally straight and level. - I reach a brief detour down and around a washed-out section of this road and it occurs to me that this is an old railway grade
Click. That's why the road is so straight, level and narrow. I'll learn later that this is the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway that operated from 1906 to 1911. I'm really enjoying the joshua-tree forest here. - A close-up of the wash-out reveals buried posts that supported the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade
Perhaps drainage under the railway grade wasn't so good, hence the wash-out? - I pass an old road leading toward the Castle Peaks area, now closed by Wilderness markers
This old road, still marked on the old USGS quads, is slowly returning to nature. - The Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade is a great mountain-bike ride today, 100 years after the rail line was decommissioned
I'm now far enough along that I can see over to the section of the New York Mountains in the heart of Mojave National Preserve. - I take a quick break in the joshua-tree forest to enjoy the silence and try my cell phone; I also remove my sweater
I wasn't expecting my cell phone to work here, and it doesn't. I'm enjoying a degree of silence here because the heavy winds from earlier in the day have slowed down, which has also caused the temperature to warm up a bit. - I zoom in behind me for a closer look at the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade that I've been riding for a while
Interesting squiggle pattern of tire tracks on the old railway bed... - I haven't seen many wildflowers along the old railway grade, so a patch of paintbrush really catches my attention when I pass by
I'm anxious to get past this mound here for better views toward the New York Mountains. - Suddenly, I have a view across Lanfair Valley all the way to Tabletop Mountain (the distant flat-topped hill, of course)
Tabletop Mountain is a familiar landmark visible from so many locations in Mojave National Preserve, but I haven't seen this view of it before. - I take the detour around another wash-out on the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade
Most of this road is drivable by low-clearance cars, but these occasional wash-outs make higher-clearance more important. - I pass an old OX Ranch water tank, so I'll be leaving the Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade shortly
Somewhere a few hundred feet ahead, I should see a road leading toward the Castle Peaks. I'll turn there. I'm at about 4600 feet elevation now, up in the high country again. - I start riding, and sometimes walking, the 10-ton bike up Castle Peaks Road, the final leg of today's trip
I've got about 350 feet of elevation gain during these final few miles. It's not steep, but sometimes there's just enough loose sand on the road that it's easier to walk. - As I rise slowly, the views across Lanfair Valley become increasingly expansive
I'll be over in that area of Mojave National Preserve in a few days... - Castle Peaks Road heads across the land toward a slot between the rolling hills at upper-left
My views of the Castle Peaks are getting closer. - 10 minutes later, I'm almost at the next landmark, where Castle Peaks Road arrives at the slot in the rolling hills
In wide, open areas like this, it's always exciting to approach a feature that will probably completely change my views. - Between the rolling hills, Castle Peaks Road rises up a short steep hill onto a man-made berm overlooking a dry reservoir
The greenery in the dry reservoir suggests that it contained water quite recently. Presumably, this reservoir was built by former ranchers to help water their cattle. The road is looking a bit grown-in here. - The short, rugged descent down the hill off the dam on Castle Peaks Road would require high clearance
... and possibly four-wheel drive (in a motor vehicle). - Castle Peaks Road beyond the dry reservoir continues to deteriorate
Here I follow a brief detour to the left around a completely eroded segment of the road. The detour is the smoothest part of the road beyond the reservoir. - Immediately after the little detour on Castle Peaks Road is another sandy stretch, too deep for me to ride the 10-ton bike
Some of the tracks here look like they're from motorcycles (or bicycles?)... I'm getting tired from pushing the bike, so I start looking for a potential campsite as I trudge onward. - My wish is granted when I reach a well-used campsite a short distance ahead, just off Castle Peaks Road
A couple of nice juniper trees, a fire ring (that I likely won't use), and a bit of shelter from the wind make this a good spot. - I go for a short walk as I try to decide where to erect my tent, and I discover this luxury outdoor toilet
It's a bit weathered, but it still looks relatively splinter-free and quite serviceable! - I have to laugh while walking around my new campsite; I discover that I'm at the end of Castle Peaks Road without realizing it
The old road continues beyond this Wilderness boundary as a trail for hikers and horse riders, but is closed to cars and bicycles. My USGS map shows the entire road, but not the Wilderness boundary, so I thought there was still more ridable road ahead. - I set up camp next to a juniper tree, hoping that it might provide a bit of a wind break should I need it
I haven't seen any people since leaving Walking Box Ranch Road a few hours ago, and hopefully it will stay that way while I'm here! I'll be camping here at least one more night, possibly two. - Since I'm between a couple of hills, I don't get to see a full sunset here at the end of Castle Peaks Road
I go for a walk up on a nearby hill, make my add-boiling-water-to-bag meal, then settle in for the evening. Beautiful moonlight later shining into my tent, and the high winds of the day have disappeared. I go to sleep in the serenity at around 23h30, rather tired and a bit sore. But not all is completely silent. In the distance, I can hear the murmur of freight trains down in Ivanpah Valley on the other side of the New York Mountains, a familiar sound in much of Mojave National Preserve that I've come to enjoy. Also, occasional airplanes undo the silence. After dark, the temperature drops significantly, probably into the low 40s(F). Suddenly I'm cold! I wear double socks, long underwear, my sweater and my outer shell to stay comfortable in my sleeping bag. My add-boiling-water-to-bag meal tonight is Natural High "Classic BBQ Chicken and Rice." The sauce is good and robust, but that's all you can taste. Would I buy it again? Maybe, but only to add variety to my menu on a long trip; it's too one-dimensional. - Elevation profile of bicycle route to Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve from Searchlight, Nevada
26 bicycle miles and about 2000 feet of elevation gain. - Bicycle route to Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve from Searchlight, Nevada
26 bicycle miles and about 2000 feet of elevation gain.