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- Well, since I'm at the base of one of the Castle Peaks outcrops, it's time to decide whether to continue upward or not
I want to hike up the hill and around the other side of the pinnacle, but I also want to explore other parts of the plateau area. I can't hike in both directions at once! - I decide not to climb up to the Castle Peaks, and instead hike down a wash and across the plateau toward Taylor Spring
I've already bagged two springs today: Malpais Spring and Indian Spring. Time for a third one. Lots of fragrant purple sage in this wash. - Occasional colour juxtapositions make for a scenic hike down this wash east of the Castle Peaks
Purple sage, plus red Indian paintbrush, plus yellow snakeweed (I think), plus light-catching cholla cacti. - I walk through a patch of yellow desert marigolds (the large flowers) and goldfields (the tiny yellow ones)
The dark green junipers amplify the yellow of the flower garden. - This plant (snakeweed, I think) is so odd for its dense, rounded shape
It's absolute greenness and bright-yellow flowers seem out-of-place in the dry desert before it dries up for the hot summer. - More purple desert sage and yellow desert marigolds as I glance up at the Castle Peaks
If I had started my hiking day earlier, I might have had time to visit both Castle Peaks and Taylor Spring. However, I rarely start my hiking days early! - A GPS check shows that Taylor Spring lies somewhere past the large rounded hill ahead
No trails lie ahead, just fun cross-country hiking. - A patch of pink buckwheat flowers sits in my view of the Castle Peaks as I hike down the wash
I must be re-entering buckwheat country now; there were almost none up on the ridge. - A little further along the ridge, I gaze across the plateau over Malpais Spring toward the area of Searchlight, Nevada
I haven't seen many yellow cactus flowers like these today. - A patch of phacelias bloom under the shade line of an old juniper tree
One of the Castle Peaks outcrops rises up in the background. - From this ridge in the New York Mountains, I recognize Ivanpah Dry Lake and Clark Mountain in the distance
Somewhere at the foot of these hills ahead sits Juniper Spring. I'll have to look at my maps later and consider doing a hike to that corner of Mojave National Preserve which I have yet to visit. - I walk along this ridge in the New York Mountains, parts of which are quite lush in a Mojave Desert way
Lots of junipers, joshua trees and cholla cactus here. - As I approach a ridge in the New York Mountains, I notice pink cactus flowers popping out of a boulder
In the background is one of the outcrops of the Castle Peaks. I could hike up that way or I could continue exploring the lower ridge here. Decisions, decisions... - The water in the Indian Spring cistern is clean, aside from minor algal growth in the tank
I'm thrilled by the discovery of usable water here. I thought Malpais Spring would be my only possible source of water in this area, and it's almost dry. - A bee sits on the edge of the Indian Spring cistern, enjoying the water's edge
Actually, several bees are here, but none of them seem interested in my visit, thankfully. - When I arrived here at Indian Spring, a flurry of doves took flight and left; this one watches me from a nearby branch
The dove seems to realize that it's being watched and flies away shortly after this photo is taken. - Now that I know there's good water here at Indian Spring, I'll be back tomorrow to fill up
I have plenty of water with me for today, so I walk past the old fence posts and continue hiking. - Beyond Indian Spring, I start hiking up the remnants of an old road that leads upward
Where will this take me? - I hike up the wash beyond the slot canyons above Malpais Spring, then hike cross-country over to Indian Spring
I don't know if there's anything of interest at this Indian Spring, but I'll find out shortly. - At Indian Spring in the New York Mountains is an old fence that has collected a lot of rock and sand over the years
It appears that water draining down the hillside, carrying rocks, passes through this fence, and the rocks get trapped here. What would the person who built this fence think if he could see it today? - At Indian Spring in the New York Mountains is a dry, abandoned cistern
However, I notice another cistern nearby... - Indian Spring, New York Mountains, Mojave National Preserve has water!
I wasn't expecting to find water here, and yet here's a full cistern. And, fresh water is still dripping into the tub! The box for a wilderness camera behind the spring contains no camera. - I'm enjoying the rocky constrictions in Malpais Spring wash, and I find myself hiking toward another one
... just when I thought I may have reached the end. - Deposits of sand and silt fill the drainage between the rocks
No footprints here. - I reach a small dry waterfall to climb
Water flows have scoured smooth some of the surfaces here. - Just beyond the dry waterfall is a narrow, curving slot to walk through
The mineral content of the rocks produces subtle shades of greyed-out pink, ochre and mauve; colours that were popular in house paint during the Victorian era. - I take a look back toward my tent and Hart Peak after climbing out of the slot canyon
I'd like to come back here during the winter and see what this looks like with water flowing. - The white blooms of Cliff rose line some stretches of the upper part of Malpais Spring canyon
Cliff rose looks like it might make a good garden plant. - Orange desert mallow flowers bloom out the side of reddish rock in upper Malpais Spring canyon
Desert mallows are almost everywhere on this trip. - Quite a few moths flutter about in the moist area around Malpais Spring
I'm guessing there are several hundred, and perhaps a few thousand, of these small moths here. - Above Malpais Spring are more interesting eroded areas to walk through
What will be around the next corner? - One of several slots to walk through in the canyon above Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
... and a little climb to get up out of the end of the slot. - I climb up the hill above the slot canyon and look back down into the area above Malpais Spring
Gee, I was way down there just a few minutes ago. - Atop a rocky outcrop above Malpais Spring, I notice a lizard near my feet, who thinks I don't notice him
...but I do notice him, and take several photos while he stands still, perfectly camouflaged. I don't eat lizard, so he doesn't have much to worry about. Maybe he knows that. - The walls of Malpais Spring canyon are less tall as it rises up to meet the highlands
Interesting rock outcrops continue, but probably not for much longer. - I pass a big rock wall in Malpais Spring wash
A few turrets of the Castle Peaks are visible in the distance. - A rock outcrops juts out from the wall of Malpais Spring wash like an arrowhead
- I get excited when I discover this little stream; I'm close to the source of Malpais Spring
Is this it, or will there be more water than this? - Near the source of Malpais Spring is a moist, grassy area that's probably underwater during wetter periods
The water channel is stained a dark reddish-brown; must be a high mineral content in the water here. - The stream from Malpais Spring is very shallow, so I try digging a hole deep enough to accommodate the end of my water filter
Hmmm... not sure I can get any water here without significant work. The hole I dig is in sand so soft that the stream instantly disappears into it instead of accumulating! I refill my hole and continue onward a bit disappointed. - Just above Malpais Spring is another thicket area with lots of willows, and these upright bushes that I don't recognize
Open areas between the thickets make it possible to hike easily further up the wash. - I climb up the canyon wall a bit to get an overview of the Malpais Spring area
There's not much water here now, but it's still quite green for the Mojave Desert. - I follow the pipe up the wash toward Malpais Spring
The pipe is suspended in the air and supported by ledges on the rock walls, rather than resting on the ground. - I walk up a wide slot in the Malpais Spring canyon, still following the pipe
Judging by the erosion of the rock, gushing water must flow here after a big rain. - As I climb down into the canyon leading to Malpais Spring, I'm greeted by pink cactus and range ratany flowers
The pointy turrets of the Castle Peaks sit in the background; I'll hike up that way after checking out Malpais Spring. - A few steep rock outcrops edge the Malpais Spring canyon
The wash is looking dry toward Malpais Spring, will there be water ahead? - Here's an old pipe, presumably leading to the source of Malpais Spring
Follow the pipe! - After a short distance, I climb up out of the canyon to circumvent a thicket of willow, desert willow and catclaw
I hope Malpais Spring isn't in the middle of all that greenery, which would require bushwhacking to penetrate. - Once past the big thicket, I climb back down into the Malpais Spring wash past a patch of orange desert mallows
I check my GPS and see that I haven't reached Malpais Spring yet, so I continue walking up the wash. - A peaceful morning of solitude at the top of Malpais Spring Road
I slept well and feel refreshed, partly because yesterday's ride was moderate rather than strenuous. The warm sun on the tent feels good after a chilly night, but I start to sweat after a while. Time to get up! - After coffee and the usual breakfast of granola, nuts and dried fruit, it's time to dig a cat hole
It's tough to dig a hole in the clay-like earth, but the gravelly patches here and there are not as difficult to excavate. - Before starting the hike to nearby Malpais Spring, I lock my bike to a joshua tree, for what it's worth
I don't expect any visitors while I'm gone hiking, but you never know... - Elevation profile of Nipton to Malpais Spring bicycle route via Walking Box Ranch Road
27.6 bicycle miles with 3500 feet of elevation gain, probably exaggerated by the Topo 7 software as usual. - Nipton to Malpais Spring bicycle route via Walking Box Ranch Road
27.6 bicycle miles with 3500 feet of elevation gain, probably exaggerated by the Topo 7 software as usual. - Looking toward the Castle Peaks, the buckwheat flowers pick up the sunset light differently
Sunset is perhaps the best time of day to be outside in the desert. Professional photographers already know this, but my travels are not always so perfectly scheduled. - The nearby Castle Mountains and Hart Peak radiate in the sunset near Malpais Spring
With almost no wind this evening, it's incredibly quiet and peaceful up here. Sometimes I stand here gazing, as motionless as possible, to experience maximum silence. - Pink-orange haze sets in over Nevada, east of my campsite near Malpais Spring
It's getting dark and I'm getting hungry; time to think about supper! - The sun sets, little by little, minute by minute, on the Castle Mountains and Hart Peak
I snap a lot of photos, trying in vain to somehow capture the moment in some meaningful way. - The upper turrets of the Castle Mountains and Hart Peak soak up the very last rays of the day
I stand here listening to the nothingness and the breeze, disconnected from all those things "that matter." It's well worth the sweat and calories that it takes to get here. - The moon is full enough tonight to cast shadows here near Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I settle into the tent for a relaxing evening. Supper is Mountain House Jamaican Style Chicken and Rice, which is spicy enough to be a real winner. It's a chilly evening, so I sleep with long underwear and double socks. I sleep so well. - Fluffy white stuff on a small barrel cactus at the top of Malpais Spring Road
A few wands of grass poke through. - A close-up of the white fluff on the barrel cactus
A nest for insects or a small bird? The tough cactus spines do provide a measure of protection. - The pale buckwheat flowers look pinker in the blush of sunset near Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
These plants seem to love the gravelly soil up here. - Malpais Spring Road tops out on a plateau at about 4600 feet elevation, so I park the bicycle and start looking for a campsite
Nice view of the town of Searchlight, Nevada from here. At this point, the meagre road turns northeast and continues back down to the corral on Walking Box Ranch Road that I passed a while ago. - I go for a short walk to check out the area at the top of Malpais Spring Road; this will be home for a night or two
I'm hoping to find water in the area tomorrow, even though the nearby gorge looks bone-dry from up here. I drank about 4 litres of water today on my way here. - I look westward up the gorge toward Malpais Spring and get excited about tomorrow's hike up into that area
The Malpais Spring area has been on my list of places to visit in Mojave National Preserve for a few years now, so I'm happy that I've finally made it here. - OK, so where do I set up the tent here on Malpais Spring Road?
I walk past the Wilderness boundary and think about walking in my belongings and setting up camp in the joshua tree forest, away from the road. - I put on my sweater and long pants and decide to set up camp in the turn-out at the top of Malpais Spring Road
Despite a few tire tracks, it doesn't seem that any regular traffic passes here, so I'm hoping for solitude, even at the edge of the road. Nice view of Castle Peaks in the sunset! - The plateau at the top of Malpais Spring Road and a few old stretches of range fence receive the orange glow of end-of-day sun
There's white stuff on that barrel cactus; I'll take a closer look. - I pass one of those small "Entering Mojave National Preserve" signs on my approach to Malpais Spring
Actually, I forgot that I was outside Mojave National Preserve and that parts of it don't extend all the way to the California-Nevada border. The road is smoother here, so I'm back on the bike riding slowly, with Castle Peaks in the distance. - I pass an old corral on Walking Box Ranch Road and check my GPS for directions here
Roads in this area are unmarked and easy to miss. A visible route to Malpais Spring leads from behind this corral at the middle-right, but I decide to stay on the "main" road and look for the shorter route further ahead. I hope it's passable! - I approach the sole motor vehicle that I've seen today on Walking Box Ranch Road
It passed me a short while ago, but there is nobody in it when I pass. Presumably, the occupants are out hiking (or hiding from me). - I pass an extremely modest post on Walking Box Ranch Road which marks my re-entry into California from Nevada
Luckily, I know where I am, since "State Line" on the sign doesn't tell me which state I'm leaving, nor which I'm entering. I notice a small camper parked in a wash near here. - I almost missed the old road to Malpais Spring, here it is; I've been watching for it and checking my pre-recorded GPS points
I turn here and drop down into the gulley; Malpais Spring should be a mile or so up that way near the low hills at distant right. Castle Peaks form a backdrop at the distant left. - Stagecoach Well sits in the wash along the road to Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
There's an old windmill and water tank here at Stagecoach Well, but no water (I wasn't expecting any, but you never know). - Rising out of the wash just past Stagecoach Well, the road is really rough, with loose rock on the surface
I drag the 10-ton bike up this little hill. My rear wheel is rubbing against the bike's frame again. I would stop and adjust it now, but with only a mile or so ahead of me, I decide to just put up with it. - Fields of pinkish-white buckwheat flowers bloom along Walking Box Ranch Road, with Nevada's McCullough Mountains in the distance
I've been riding slowly up the gentle grade of Walking Box Ranch Road for almost half an hour now. - The pinkish-white buckwheat flowers dominate the Walking Box Ranch Road area, but they are not the only showy plants
The white fluffies in the foreground look like a winterfat bush, and many pale yellow flowers (matchweed?) also dot this area. - Walking Box Ranch Road is mostly straight and slightly uphill, but occasional humps over desert topography add interest
The abundance of joshua trees makes for a scenic ride, even though the miles of telephone poles look endless at times. - Views down to the town of Searchlight, Nevada open up occasionally along Walking Box Ranch Road
I'll have to check out Searchlight one of these days... The only part of Nevada I've visited so far is this area here just east of Mojave National Preserve. Nope, I haven't been to Las Vegas. I live in suburban sprawl (San José), and have little interest in visiting other anti-cities like that. - Fragments of old pavement on Walking Box Ranch Road
I rode Walking Box Ranch Road once before, back in 2000. Due to the spongy texture of the pavement, mostly gone today, some called it a "molasses road." - I pass the six-mile marker on Walking Box Ranch Road
The long, straight line of telephone poles continues, as does the view toward the Castle Mountains ahead at my left. - The historic Walking Box Ranch is being restored, but is not yet open to the public
I consider going for a walk around the grounds just to see what's there, but decide to ride onward in case I have delays reaching Malpais Spring. - A sign warns of mining traffic near the start of Walking Box Ranch Road
The mines referred to by the signs may be no longer operational, but I'm not sure. I guess I'll find out how much traffic there is. So far, no sign of life around here. - One lane only on Walking Box Ranch Road: for a Mojave Desert dirt road, it's actually pretty good
Unlike many Mojave Desert roads, Walking Box Ranch Road is one on which I can confidently plan to cover many miles in a day. It's rather rough for sure, but I'm not worried about the 10 miles ahead of me on this road. - Riding east toward Crescent Pass on Nevada 164, I pass under the power lines that cross Mojave National Preserve
Oddly, the sign for Crescent Peak Road is misspelled, with an unnecessary "a." (Creascent?) - I notice some tiny purple flowers growing in the gravel on the shoulder of Nevada 164
Cool! This looks like Purple Mat (Nama demissum). - I approach Crescent Pass on Nevada 164, whose high point is at about 4870 feet elevation
Folks at the Nipton store mentioned this morning that there was light snow on the pass here yesterday, at about the same time that I saw a few snowflakes on my way down Cedar Canyon Road. - Near Crescent Pass, I stop to look at a dirt road that leads toward the McCullough Mountains
I studied the area up this road in case I have time to ride up that way on the way back from Malpais Spring. I notice that my rear wheel is coming loose again, so I tighten it, and cut through my thumbnail, drawing lots of blood. Oops. - After crossing Crescent Pass on Nevada 164, I'm coasting downhill when I see this huge joshua tree by the highway
How old is this joshua tree, given that they only grow a few inches per year? I'm riding downhill now, into a chilly headwind. Where did that nice tailwind go that helped push me up the hill? - Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness: I take a short energy-bar and water break at the turnout along Nevada 164
I must be tired already; I bang my head on the sign while parking my bicycle! McCullough Mountains in the distance. Not today, but maybe on the way back? I put on my sweater and transfer two litres of water from my water bag to my now-empty Camelbak. - Purple desert sages dominate the foreground as I go for a short walk in the Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness Area
Wee Thump Wilderness Area was established in 2002. Fields of desert mallows bloom almost invisibly in the background between here and the McCullough Mountains. - I've just coasted blissfully down 6 miles of Nevada 164 and reach unpaved Walking Box Ranch Road, where I'll turn off
I've dropped 900 feet to about 3950 feet elevation. I can see the town of Searchlight, Nevada 7 miles further down the hill. Searchlight is not on my route for this trip, but I might end up visiting there if I don't locate water at Malpais Spring. - Across the road from the Nipton General Store is a rock-display yard
Rocks for sale from the nearby Lucky Dutchman Mine; maybe some of the colourful rocks in the Nipton cactus garden came from there. - I head east up Nipton Road toward Crescent Pass, Nevada, up in the hills at centre-left
I'll climb almost 1850 feet over the next 4.5 miles. The cool breeze helps to moderate the hot sun. A tailwind makes the climb easier. - At the Nevada border, I notice that my 10-litre MSR water bag is dripping a bit from the nozzle
Hmmm... it didn't leak when I last used it almost six months ago. I guess the plastic is finally reacting to being stuffed in my overheated saddlebags for days on end while bicycle touring. - After half an hour, I stop for a few minutes on the way up the hill: I'm in Nevada now
A new "Welcome to Nevada" sign has been posted since I last rode by here and entered Nevada briefly, two years ago, this one with fewer bullet holes. On the California side, it's called Nipton Road; from now on, I'll be on Nevada 164. - From the Nevada-California border on Nipton Road/Nevada 164, I look back down the hill to the tiny town of Nipton
On the far side of the Ivanpah Valley are the Ivanpah Mountains, and behind that, the Clark Mountains. - Just beyond the "Welcome to Nevada" sign is an "Area of Critical Environmental Concern" sign
Perhaps it's referring to the Wilderness areas that I'll pass soon. - I'm up reasonably early and walk over to the Nipton store for some breakfast snacks and coffee
I slept so well last night that even the booming trains passing a few hundred feet from my tent barely woke me up. I miss Bill's home-cooked breakfast at the Nipton café. Bill passed away just recently and the new management isn't open for breakfast yet. - I enjoy the morning shade of the eucalyptus trees at Nipton campground on this cool morning
I don't need them in this morning's weather, but these non-native trees are really nice when one wants to sleep in a little and not be woken up by hot morning sunshine cooking the tent. - Time to brush my teeth and pack up for the ride from Nipton to Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
The morning sun is already heating up the quonset hut behind me that houses the washrooms. - A datura blooms at Nipton campground while a long freight train squeals by
Daturas grow all along the train route that crosses Mojave National Preserve. - The outdoor sink at Nipton is decomposing after many years of service in the hot Mojave sun
I fill up my four 1.5-litre water bottles, my two litre Camelbak and my 10-litre water bag. I'm hoping to find water at Malpais Spring, my next stop, but I don't know for sure if there will be any. - From Nipton campground, I look across the train tracks and up Ivanpah Valley toward Cima
Wide-open space for miles... I was up there just yesterday. - The cactus garden in front of the Hotel Nipton is artfully built of multi-coloured rock
Coloured rock creates spaces and patterns in the garden. - The 10-ton bike awaits departure at Nipton's outdoor sink after the final, heavy addition of my water supply
I bungee the weighty 10-litre water bag on my front rack to avoid overloading the rear rack. This saves my rear rack from breaking, but makes steering more difficult, and more demanding on the arm muscles. - The 10-ton bike and I wobble up Nipton Road away from the campground and pass a few antique buildings while leaving town
Back on the highway, I begin the next phase of this year's adventure. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Mid Hills campground to Nipton via Cima and Morning Star Mine Road
41.7 bicycle miles, mostly downhill, from 5600 feet elevation to 3030 feet. - Bicycle route from Mid Hills campground to Nipton via Cima and Morning Star Mine Road
41.7 bicycle miles, mostly downhill, from 5600 feet elevation to 3030 feet. - The washrooms in the fibreglass-clad quonset hut at Nipton are aging, but doing reasonably well
The earth floor with wood slats above it adds a rustic touch. - One of the shower stalls for campers at Nipton
I can't wait to take a shower after supper, my first in a week! - The quonset hut at the Nipton campground houses toilets, sinks and showers; an outdoor hot tub is nearby, to the right
Time to walk over to the café for supper! Though not a huge meat-eater, I order the New York strip steak meal, which is delicious and fills my protein craving. I chat with a couple who have visited many of the same places as I, then do my laundry and take a much-needed shower. I have cell-phone reception here, so I make a couple of calls and send a few text messages to declare that I'm alive and really enjoying this spring's trip. Of course it's warmer down here at Nipton than it was up in the mountains at Mid Hills campground, but I go to bed with all my clothes on anyway. I fall asleep around 0h15, and sleep wonderfully, despite being woken up by the occasional passing trains. - I ride 3 miles on Ivanpah Rd, then 7 miles across Ivanpah Valley on Nipton Road, and arrive at Nipton, population 20
There's a fair amount of traffic on this road. Despite the dark clouds ahead, it has been sunny down here in Ivanpah Valley, and I'm working up a sweat: quite a contrast to the cold up in the hills. - I pull up at the Nipton store and sign up for a campsite for the night
My rig is the one with no motor! - The tent camping area at Nipton is right along the tracks, which provides stimulating late-night noise when freight trains pass
I've never met any other tent campers here, perhaps because it's not exactly a bargain at $25 per night. But there are amenities: a café with good food, toilets and showers (haven't had one in a week), an outdoor hot tub, and a small laundromat. - Adjacent to the tent-camping area is the Nipton Bed-and-Breakfast and the café
The general store is hidden just to the left of the café. The cactus garden in front of the hotel is a nice touch. - Beyond the Nipton campground, I see storm clouds over the Castle Peaks, those pointy distant mountains
Tomorrow I'll ride up to that area and camp for a couple of days. - I set up my tent in the shade of some eucalyptus trees and buy some cold beer at the Nipton store
I'll head over to the café in an hour for a big home-cooked supper. I just learned the sad news that Bill, former café owner and chef, passed away recently, but the café lives on. - From Nipton, I see rain clouds over the area of Morning Star Mine Road, site of my nice downhill ride a couple of hours ago
I wonder if it's really raining over there, or if it's just a "dry rain" (virga) passing through. Even rain in the desert is sometimes dry! - It looks like there might be rain over in the New York Mountains as well, in the area of Garvanza Spring
I haven't been to Garvanza Spring yet, but I hope to make it to that area toward the end of this trip. - From the upper stretch of Morning Star Mine Road, I enjoy the views across miles of joshua-tree forest to the New York Mountains
The closest I've come to visiting any of the area before me is Butcher Knife Canyon, just out of view to the right. I hope to pass by the foot of those mountains later in this trip. - I stop briefly off Morning Star Mine Road where the power lines cross
I've ridden the powerline road west from here up to Cima Road, but haven't tried riding yet it northeast across the upper part of Ivanpah Valley. - Looking across Ivanpah Valley from upper Morning Star Mine Road, I wonder if maybe I will experience rain after all
Whatever... I keep riding. - I begin the stimulating descent down Morning Star Mine Road into Ivanpah Valley, and I don't stop until I reach the bottom
The almost-1500-foot drop over 10 miles on Morning Star Mine Road is one of the best bicycle downhills in Mojave National Preserve. It's never steep, but I have a tailwind here as I often do. I take the lane and ride at over 35 miles per hour for a while. It's not nearly so much fun in the uphill direction, which can feel endless after a while. - Near the bottom of Morning Star Mine Road, signs and cars pop up through the creosote-bush scrub
No rain on me yet! - I reach that stop sign in the middle of nowhere at the bottom of Morning Star Mine Road, at the junction of Ivanpah Road
I can see the town of Nipton at the distant mid-right, my destination today. I turn left here as most car traffic does. A right turn here would take me into the New York Mountains and past the old Ivanpah village, a nice trip that I've done several times. - I pause at the end of Morning Star Mine Road to look east up Ivanpah Road into the New York Mountains
I've went up that way several times before (the road isn't as steep as it looks), but I need a shower after a week in the backcountry, which I can only get at Nipton. - I cross a cattleguard, then the train tracks, then turn right (north) on Kelso-Cima Road at the stop sign
The old Mojave Road continues ahead past this point, squiggling up the hill toward Cima Dome in the irregular sunlight. - I ride almost five miles up the gentle grade of Kelso-Cima Road to the Cima Store, gaining about 450 feet in elevation
The slight uphill combined with patches of sunshine means that I'm starting to sweat; time to take off my windbreaker! I don't see any wetness on the road, but the distinct smell of summer rain is in the air. - Outside the Cima Store is a pay phone and a very worn sign telling us to preserve our desert (good message)
Since there is no cell-phone reception here, a pay phone is still useful to people with cell phones. Unfortunately, a similarly useful pay phone down at Kelso Depot was removed a few years ago. - Also by the Cima Store sits an old boxcar or trailer
I wonder why it's here, and if there are plans to do anything with it. I deposit my mortgage payment in the nearby mailbox. - Cima Store is open today, so I stop for a bag of chips and a bottle of blogger Morongo Bill's esteemed Sioux City Sarsaparilla
Sioux City Sarsaparilla is what root beer is supposed to taste like. Morongo Bill's blog comments on a variety of desert issues; worth a look. As I drink up, I realize it's a bit chilly today to be sucking back a cold beverage! - I finish my snacks from the Cima Store and start riding Morning Star Mine Road, which is flat at first
Looks like I may have missed the rain that was passing through the area. It's chilly, but sunny, up here in the Cima area. - I'm now in the small area of Cedar Canyon Road where I can usually get cell-phone reception
I'm watching for the little road before the one that leads to Chicken Water Spring, where I'll stop and take a break. I'm worried about my rear wheel coming loose again, but so far no problem. - I turn down the little road off Cedar Canyon Road for a short break and watch the rain clouds approach
Here they come... Time for an energy bar. The view of Eagle Rocks in the background is being concealed by the wafting cloud. - I shove my cell phone up to my mouth and enjoy the reception here, as well as the view of Cima Dome in the distance
I send a couple of text messages, then change my outgoing message, to inform callers of my location. I haven't had any reception for a few days, so I'm late receiving a message from my partner alerting me of the cold weather that I'm experiencing. - The moist clouds blow past; what first looks like a bit of pollen in the breeze are a few snowflakes
OK, no wonder I feel a bit cold. Since it's colder at Mid Hills campground, maybe there are some bonafide snow flurries up there right now. - After my cell-phone break, I speed down the final 2.75 miles of Cedar Canyon Road at about 20 mph; pavement begins just ahead
It feels good to reach pavement and ride fast without having my teeth rattle from a washboarded road surface beneath me! Nonetheless, I'm glad that most of Cedar Canyon Road is rough and unpaved; it keeps the area remote. - Riding west on Cedar Canyon Road, I get views of the Eagle Rocks area from down below
A group of three vehicles passes me here, slowly, creating a minor dust cloud. Most people do not drive very fast on these washboarded roads! - Riding through Cedar Canyon is scenic, but my fingers are getting cold!
It's typically cooler up in the mountains here, but this is unusually chilly for late May! On the way down, I'm noticing how badly the road is washboarded; on the way up, my speed was so slow that it didn't seem so bad. - The road pops out of Cedar canyon and begins its way down the foothills toward Kelso-Cima Road
Might be rainy down there... I hope not, since it's cold today, and I didn't bring rain pants on this trip (my outer shell is reasonably waterproof). I regularly bicycle-commute in the rain, but on those days I have a place to warm up should I get wet. - Beyond the purple sage, it looks like the area around Death Valley Mine might be getting a shower right now
I often ride the unimproved Death Valley Mine Road over to Cima when I'm out here, but today I'll ride more of semi-busy Kelso-Cima Road for a change. - Many fallen joshua trees are seen along Cedar Canyon Road where the 2005 brush fires burned
There's a bit of rain or fog down there somewhere, perhaps around Kelso Depot. The dark clouds seem to be moving around quickly. - I head east, downhill, a couple of miles on Wild Horse Canyon Road until it reaches Black Canyon Road beyond the pinnacle ahead
Despite the dark clouds behind me, it's still a bright and sunny day over toward Pinto Mountain, Round Valley, and beyond. - I ride through the shade of a dark cloud as I descend Black Canyon Road toward Cedar Canyon Road
It's always fun to take this hill in the downhill direction as a reward for all the sweat I expended riding it uphill five days ago. - The north end of Black Canyon Road is a nice straight downhill to the "T" intersection at Cedar Canyon Road
I'd love to take this downhill at a good speed... However, with the washboard texture of the road rattling my teeth as I ride, and destabilizing patches of surface sand here and there, I grandfatherly coast on the 10-ton bike, with brakes often on. - I watch a small RV rattle its way up, at about 5 miles per hour, the washboarded hill of Black Canyon Road that I just descended
This is only the second vehicle I've seen this morning. - I'm up early this morning, enjoying the warm morning sun on my very cold tent; it must have dropped down into the 30s last night
I slept with all my clothes on, and woke up several times during the night due to the cold and the noise of the high winds. But I somehow feel refreshed. I'll pack up leisurely this morning and then ride down to Nipton for a shower, café food and beer. - I walk up the hill near my campsite to take in the views from around 5600 ft elevation before leaving Mid Hills campground
I'm wearing my windbreaker over my sweater this morning, but I'm still shivering. Despite the cold wind on this hilltop, the sunshine and the views over to Cima Dome and Kessler Peak lift my spirits. - After spending five nights at Mid Hills campground, the contents of my tent have become quite disorganized
It doesn't matter now though, as everything is getting packed up and going for a ride down to Nipton. Breakfast and coffee first. - The 10-ton bike is ready to leave Mid Hills campground for Nipton
All saddlebags are packed and just need to be mounted on the bike. It's easier to assemble the bike when a support, like the picnic table here, is available to keep the bike standing; but I've gotten used to assembling the bike without a support too. - One last look at Eagle Rocks before I leave Mid Hills campground
It was fun walking around over at Eagle Rocks yesterday. - Goodbye Mid Hills campground for this year
I ride through the peaceful campground, still surprised at how few people are here for a Sunday morning. The cold-weather forecast has apparently kept people away. - As I exit Mid Hills campground, I notice what looks like rain clouds over in the area of the Providence Mountains
I'm about to head down Wild Horse Canyon Road away from the clouds, for a while. However, my route will change direction after a few miles, so I may find myself headed toward the rain clouds. Hmmm.... - Eagle Rocks hike from Mid Hills campground elevation profile
4.4 hiking miles and the GPS estimates 1100 feet of elevation gain. - Eagle Rocks hiking route from Mid Hills campground
4.4 hiking miles and the GPS estimates 1100 feet of elevation gain. - Brrr! It's really cold up here at Mid Hills campground tonight
I had been worrying that this trip might be too hot to enjoy! I wear my outer shell over my sweater to stay warm, but it's not really enough. A bandana substitutes for a warm hat that I didn't bring. The high winds aren't quite as menacing and constant as last night. I write notes in my journal and sip a bit of brandy during the evening. I fall asleep in my sleeping bag with all my clothes on, during a silent moment between howling wind gusts, hoping that I'll stay asleep. - Instead of climbing straight up the hills back to Mid Hills campground, I head south briefly on an old road
The old road is a "cherry stem" with official Wilderness on both sides, so it can be driven legally for anyone who dares. - The old road that heads south from Eagle Rocks passes through an area that escaped the 2005 brush fires
The lush dark-green of a few mature junipers cheer up this largely burned area. - When I reach a patch of mature, unburned sagebrush, I turn east (left) and begin hiking cross-country to Mid Hills campground
The sagebrush is delightfully fragrant as I brush against it. The old road here sports plenty of footprints, but, surprisingly, no fresh tire tracks. - On the way back to Mid Hills campground, I reach an open area with views spanning all the way down to Wild Horse Mesa
I was hiking down in that area yesterday, in Beecher Canyon below the mesa. - Hiking cross-country back to Mid Hills campground, I exit the boundary of the unburned area
There probably won't be any more blue-green sagebrush bushes from this point onward. - Five years after the 2005 brush fires here, many of the burned trees are finally falling down
Is there anybody around to hear the sound of the trees falling down? - A mound cactus and a desert four o'clock grow in the burned area near Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve
Five years after the brush fires are a few signs of regeneration. So little, so slowly. - Hurray, this might be a pinon pine seedling growing in the burned area of Mid Hills campground
... with a yucca behind it sprouting from a fire-damaged base. I make it back to camp shortly after 18h. - I walk up the hill near my tent to catch another great sunset from Mid Hills campground
Here I'm looking at the north end of Eagle Rocks, which I didn't visit today. I guess I have a reason to do another hike in the Eagle Rocks area one day... - Eagle Rocks pinnacles at sunset, from Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve
The light is changing by the minute, so I snap a lot of photos with my inexpensive pocket digital camera to see what I get. - Close-up of sunset behind Eagle Rocks
The pinks and purples are starting to fade. In a few minutes, I'll walk back to the tent and make tonight's instant meal: Mountain House Sweet and Sour Pork with Rice. I'm hungry! - I take a final look up at the Eagle Rocks before starting the hike back to Mid Hills campground
I've been scrambling around Eagle Rocks for almost three hours, but didn't visit the far north end of the formation. I haven't seen any eagles yet either. - Just east of the south end of Eagle Rocks, I head east (right) across the broad canyon
Heading straight ahead down the canyon would take me to Cedar Canyon Road after a while. Mid Hills campground is off to the right on top of the hills. - It's amazing how a few trees manage to grow in the cracks between rocks in the steep slopes of Eagle Rocks
From what I can tell, the trees furthest over in the rocks weren't subjected to the flames of the 2005 fires here like the one close to the camera. I can see Kelso-Cima Road down there in the valley! - I look up through another burned-tree canopy toward rock towers at Eagle Rocks
These scorched trunks remind me of the sycamores that grow in wet areas outside of San José, and which are also used as street trees in town. - Peering between boulders at Eagle Rocks, Mojave National Preserve
Just behind me are more boulders to crawl under. - I back up a few feet under a big boulder, still looking at the slot between the rocks in front of me
It's quite windy up here today, but the rocks provide serious shelter. - I haven't seen any large animals here today, but this scat shows that some are indeed here somewhere
Animals would presumably enjoy the shelter provided by all the rock formations here at Eagle Rocks. - A completely burned mound cactus at Eagle Rocks, Mojave National Preserve
This one didn't survive the 2005 brush fires! - I walk across this flat area, between cholla cactus skeletons, to the next pile of rocks
A few yuccas are sprouting back from the roots, but the cholla cacti here haven't regenerated after the 2005 brush fires. - This rock has teeth!
... or is it a necklace? - At the south end of Eagle Rocks sits a patch of blooming desert mallows
From a distance like this and looking toward the sun, the desert mallow flower wands glisten, their bright orange radiance attenuated. - Desert mallow close-up at Eagle Rocks, Mojave National Preserve
I've seen so many of these flowers during this trip (and I'm only at the halfway point) that I think I'll subtitle this as "the desert mallow trip." - I'm at the south end of the Eagle Rocks now, looking southwest toward the pointy hills around Wildcat and Chicken Water Springs
This is roughly where I passed Eagle Rocks last year during my hike to the Chicken Water Spring area, visiting Wildcat Spring and Coyote Spring along the way. - What's that red speck poking out of that boulder?
I think I get a little closer to find out... - Somehow, a Claret cup cactus is managing to eke out an existence in that crack in the boulder
Minimalism defined. - I'm constantly fascinated by the ability of some trees to grow in the upper reaches of the boulders, where soil is almost absent
A few of those trees might have escaped the 2005 brush fires due to their remote location. - Under boulders at Eagle Rocks, I peer out toward the sunshine
I haven't seen any snakes yet hiding here in the shade from the hot sun. - I run across a patch of young Palmer's penstemons in the burned area on the way back to Mid Hills campground
These penstemons may be new seedlings, but there are plenty of dead stems nearby, which may have burned during the 2005 brush fires. - A boulder crowns other boulders at Eagle Rocks, Mojave National Preserve
Flat-topped Table Mountain sits in the distance on the far side of Gold Valley. - Rock-scrambling at Mojave National Preserve's Eagle Rocks can include scrambling under boulders, not just over them
Some of these dark nooks and crannies feel almost cave-like. - A manzanita grows out of a crack in the boulders at Eagle Rocks
It doesn't seem that there would be enough soil in the crack for a manzanita to grow, but apparently there is. - Well, here's a rock summit at Eagle Rocks that I don't think I can climb
It's fun to look at, however. - A Claret cup cactus blooms in a shady area of Eagle Rocks where I wouldn't expect to find one
It must get enough morning sun to keep it alive. This cactus appears to have suffered some fire damage during the 2005 fires here, but not enough it kill it. - I might be able to climb this Eagle Rocks pinnacle from the right side
Where to go next... - I reach a somewhat open area in the Eagle Rocks on the way to the next pinnacles
A few minutes of easy walking sans rock scrambling. - In the shade of some big rocks, I look up through the canopy of a couple of burned trees
Strong winds are blowing right now, and these winds must have propelled the 2005 fire in order to have burned so many trees here that don't even touch each other. - A substantial rock overhang at Eagle Rocks, Mojave National Preserve
When will this crack and fall? Hopefully not right now, as I'm about to crawl under it. - This area of Eagle Rocks is a lot of fun
I look up along another shady rock wall. - More burned trees at Eagle Rocks, Mojave National Preserve
I think these were pinon pines, but I haven't been looking too closely. - It looks like there's a saddle on each side of the Eagle Rocks pinnacle above
I'll climb up there and find out... - From this saddle in the Eagle Rocks, I look into the haze southwest across Mojave National Preserve
The tan patch in the distance is the Kelso Dunes, while the closer, pointier hills are in the Chicken Water Spring area, which I hiked last year.