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- I'm surprised when I find myself briefly hiking across a flat, prairie-like expanse in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness
While hiking across an alluvial fan, I expect to cross many deep dips caused by drainage from the mountains, but not flat areas like this. - Zooming in, I can make out the tidbit of civilization that is Ludlow, California along old Route 66 and I-40
The snow-capped mountains in the distant background remind me that this is the beginning of winter in the desert. It was close to freezing last night here in the lower, warmer parts of the desert. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Ludlow to Bristol Mountains campsite
10.6 miles and 600 feet of elevation gain, some of it walked. - Bicycle route from Ludlow to Bristol Mountains campsite
10.6 miles and 600 feet of elevation gain, some of it walked. - Uh oh, another sandy area on the Bristol Mountains powerline road, and the sand looks deeper than anything I've seen today
I'm obviously entering a sandy wash area here, which is visible on my GPS. I park the bike and go for a short walk to see how long it continues. Is it worth pushing the bike through this sand trap? - Well, it looks like almost a mile of this sand lies ahead of me, and it would take some time to push the bike through it all
If I continue, I won't get much further up into the Bristol Mountains before dark. Also, I'll have to push through this sand again on the way back to Broadwell Dry Lake the day after tomorrow. I decide to look for a campsite in the immediate area. - I start backtracking a little, looking for a good campsite here in the Bristol Mountains foothills
I like a campsite with a view, but not so exposed on an open ridge that my tent will be whipped to death should strong desert winds pick up again. After half a mile, I think I've found a spot that suits me, so I park the 10-ton bike. - I choose a spot about 150 feet in from the road; I don't like to be too close to the road in case visitors should pass by
I haven't seen anyone since I left pavement at Ludlow earlier today. However, there are plenty of tire tracks on the road, and this is the Thanksgiving holiday week, when there will probably be a few more explorers poking around than usual. - I go for a short walk around my campsite in the Bristol Mountains foothills to enjoy the glowing end-of-day light
There's nothing like the orange-pink light at the end of a day in the Mojave Desert! Tonight's project is to plan tomorrow's hike. I haven't made it far enough into the Bristol Mountains to do the hike I originally planned for tomorrow. - While walking around, I notice a lot of these small animal burrows around my campsite
I'm guessing it might be the small Mojave squirrels that live in these holes; I don't know, and I haven't seen any yet. I was careful not to set up my tent on top of any of these holes! Maybe kit foxes use these holes. - The end of sunset in the Bristol Mountains makes the creosote bushes appear in a darker, lusher green than usual
Or is it just the pink glow of the mountain backdrop that makes the creosote bushes look so green? - The sun is setting here in the Bristol Mountains foothills, quickly
After returning to my tent, I take a look outside and see a fluffy-tailed fox approaching. By the time I grab my camera, hoping to photograph him, he's gone. - After dark, the moon rises in the background and I boil water for tonight's add-water-to-bag meal
The desert is bright tonight with the full moon, with that peace and quiet that is particular to the desert on a wind-free evening. Still, I can hear the trains passing along old Route 66 and occasional booming sounds that I presume are coming from the military base beyond. Supper, Mountain House instant Chicken Teriyaki with Rice, is tasty as always. Besides writing a few notes in my journal, I spend some time preparing a hiking route from here for tomorrow, into Kelso Dunes Wilderness. The temperature drops into the mid 30s tonight, but I'm so happy to be here that I barely notice the cold. I sleep well. - Ugh, the Bristol Mountains powerline road is getting rather sandy!
Hopefully, this stretch of the road won't last for too long! - The Bristol Mountains powerline road splits here into a high road and low road, which rejoin each other beyond the hill
I decide to try the low road, hoping that it will be easier than the steeper high road, even though it's longer. - I knew I'd find a happy-birthday balloon sooner or later out here in the wilderness...
I find these in the most remote places... - The Bristol Mountains low road has a nice coating of kitty litter on the surface in many places
Sometimes I can get traction along here, when the kitty litter layer is thin enough, but sometimes I end up walking the 10-ton bike a little. - A wave of optimism strikes when I reach this rather smooth, and very ridable, stretch of the Bristol Mountains powerline road
Maybe I'll cover a bit of distance today after all. These desert backroads can be quite fickle, often worse than expected, but they often turn better than expected too. - As I enter the Bristol Mountains foothills, I've been noticing swaths of a small brick-red plant
The rich red reminds me of the colour of certain buckwheat blossoms at the end of the flowering season, but this seems to be some kind of small grass. - It's time for an energy-bar break to power up for whatever might be ahead of me
The wind has pretty much died down and it's nice to just stand here and listen to the silence of the Mojave Desert again. This chocolate Clif Builder Bar is pretty good! - The Bristol Mounatins powerline road is looking good again, with a just bit of kitty litter on its surface
I'm excited, and start riding again, a little further toward the Bristol Mountains. - After two miles on the unpaved Crucero Road, I arrive at a billboard advertising the Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area
I'm heading slightly downhill here, yet some of the road has been gravelly enough that I have to walk the 10-ton bike. My road heads up into the Bristol Mountains, visible in the distance here, so I turn and ride eastward. - Something doesn't feel quite right on the 10-ton bike, so I pull over on the sandy power-line road for a moment
I'm not imagining things... I notice that couple of the screws attaching the robust Old Man Mountain rack to my bike are very loose and need to be tightened. - I plow ahead on the powerline-pipeline road that separates the Kelso Dunes Wilderness from the Bristol Mountains Wilderness
The road is a bit rough, and a bit slippery here and there, but I've managed to ride most of it so far, walking just a few short segments where I couldn't get enough traction. - I look behind me to check my progress as I slowly ride up the Bristol Mountains powerline road into the foothills
I'm just coming up out of a dip in the road. - After a mile or so on Crucero Road, I notice a turn-out and decide to check it out
There's a campsite here with a fire ring. Nice Bristol Mountains backdrop, but far too close to the freeway for me. I continue onward. At any rate, I'm not carrying any wood to burn. - I'm not disappointed by my leisurely breakfast at the Ludlow Café
The home-fried potatoes are excellent (potato skins left on for extra flavor) and the homemade biscuit is delicious, simultaneously dense and fluffy, and not greasy like at some restaurants. I'm tempted to order a second biscuit, but I'm full enough. - After I shower and repack my saddlebags, I quit the Ludlow Motel
I've enjoyed the comfort here, but am looking forward to some camping away from freeway traffic. - Before leaving Ludlow, I go for a short ride around the old Ludlow ghost town just south of the freeway
The crumbling Murray Brothers building in old Ludlow was quite well-built, of reinforced concrete. Sagging rebar hangs out where the concrete no longer exists. - This old car is parked permanently in old Ludlow, California
In the background are the Bristol Mountains, my destination today, and Broadwell Dry Lake, that sandy patch at the distant left. - I stop at the corner of Elliot and Main in old Ludlow to take in views of what's left of this town
Not much stands here, so I'll ride down Elliot Street back to old Route 66. - This old house along Ludlow's Route 66 still stands, but for how much longer?
I've seen many photos on the Internet of this house, so it's interesting to see it in person. - Almost all of the buildings on old Route 66 east of the Ludlow Café are abandoned
Judging by its modest neoclassical style, this house is probably 80-100 years old. The hipped roof and exposed rafter ends are reminiscent of my own circa-1900 house in San José. - Old Ludlow's commercial strip consists of three buildings today, all abandoned
The building at the right is the former Ludlow Café. - This old house in old Ludlow on Route 66 is almost hidden by the surrounding athel trees, presumably planted as a wind break
Here's another 1900-1920's house with hipped roof and front porch of the simple neoclassical style that was popular then. The vertical board-and-batten exterior was also common during that era. - After my brief tour around old Ludlow, I stop at the gas station store to pick up a couple more bottles of water
Now that I'm stocked up on water, I just need to slip under that freeway undercrossing there before heading out into the unpaved desert. - After riding under the freeway at Ludlow, I pass "the other gas station," which also houses the Dairy Queen
That's it, that's all. My pavement will end 100 feet or so ahead. - No more pavement for me today, nor tomorrow!
The San Bernardino County sign warns me that Crucero Road is unmaintained. Thank you. I've seen these signs before out here in the Mojave Desert. - I pass a "Limited Use Area" sign on Crucero Road shortly after leaving pavement
This sign is a bit misleading in its over-generalization of the area. Much of the area behind it in this view is federally designated Wilderness where my bicycle and other mechanized forms of travel are prohibited. - I'm up early (for me) and walk over to the Ludlow Café next door to the motel for breakfast
I've been told that breakfast here is good (thanks Eric), so I'm looking forward to it! - Barstow to Ludlow bicycle route elevation and speed profile
56 bicycle miles with about 1200 feet of elevation gain (exaggerated GPS elevation claims 1700 feet). Speed recorded is the overlaid jagged blue line. - Barstow to Ludlow bicycle route on old Route 66
56 bicycle miles with about 1200 feet of elevation gain (exaggerated GPS elevation claims 1700 feet). - I enter Interstate 40 eastbound, riding on the shoulder of course
I haven't ridden on a freeway before, so am not sure what to expect. The shoulder is generous and I have the strong wind behind me, so all is well, except for the loud noise of all the freeway traffic. - I check in at the Ludlow Motel: bland, but cleaner and more spacious than last night's accommodations in Barstow (and $10 more)
Several other rooms here appear to be occupied tonight, most likely weary freeway travelers. I doubt many people are using Ludlow as a destination like I am. - The sun fades away as old Route 66 crosses the train tracks at-grade near Pisgah siding
The freight trains here are long and frequent, but I've arrived at a train-free moment . - Well, I can't deny any longer that it's about to get dark here on Route 66
I pull over to attach a couple of little red lights to my sleeping-bag bungee cords, since my main seatpost rear flasher is obscured by my sleeping bag. - I pedal the final 10 miles to Ludlow in darkness, quite enjoyable with the almost-full moon peering through the clouds
I lose 600 feet of elevation on this final stretch: nice downhill. The road is a bit bumpy, but not like it was east of Newberry Springs. I enjoy not sharing the road with any other vehicles while I watch headlights on the adjacent I-40 freeway fly by. - The water-stained menu in my room at the Ludlow Motel advertises the offerings of the Ludlow Café next door
I'm too late to enjoy the Ludlow Café today, but I'll stop in for one of their well-known breakfasts tomorrow. I walk over to the Dairy Queen, the only other restaurant at this truck-stop village, for a hamburger and fries (not my usual kind of food). I fall asleep easily tonight after watching some TV. Highway bicycle touring was nice today, but I'm looking forward to camping tomorrow, away from electricity and well-traveled roads. - Route 66 in Newberry Springs sports a number of old buildings, some abandoned, some not: welcome to "The Barn"
"The Barn" is a bar that is still operational, and is for sale for a price in the $500,000 range. The strong wind blows against the palm tree, indicating its (and my) eastward direction. - Riding down Route 66 through Newberry Springs, a tour bus that just passed me has pulled over on the side of the road
Hmmm... there are people in the middle of the road up there. It looks like they might be photographing something. - As I pass the little crowd of people by the tour bus, I realize that the thing they are photographing is me
I guess they haven't seen any bicycle-tourers on their trip yet. Nor have I. The tour bus proceeds to stop at the famous Bagdad Café. I consider stopping there too, but decide to check it out on my way back to Barstow instead, at the end of this trip. - Next to the Bagdad Café in Newberry Springs is the abandoned Henning Motel
In disrepair now, this motel was in the Bagdad Café movie, but that wasn't enough publicity to keep it going. - I stop to take a quick look at an abandoned gas station in Newberry Springs, which also once housed a restaurant
Faded paint on the front of the building says, "Italian and American Dishes." This was once part of an old chain of gas stations called the "Whiting Brothers." - Newberry Springs has a lot of abandoned houses, but the presence of many newer houses shows that the town is not dead
This house on Route 66 used to have open desert as its backyard, but now it has a freeway with an endless stream of big rigs flowing past, like the one seen here. - Just east of Newberry Springs are several dry lakes with white minerals coming up to the surface
In today's chilly air, the white surface almost registers as snow, or snow-coated ice. - Route 66's road surface gets really rough east of Newberry Springs; I'm glad I'm riding a mountain bike with suspension!
I've been making excellent time so far today due to the rather flat terrain and strong tailwind, often riding 20 mph. However, the miles of rough pavement here, in addition to a slight uphill, are slowing me down considerably. - It looks like these two abandoned and semi-demolished trailers near Route 66 east of Newberry Springs have been visited often
There's very little human habitation once one gets well east of Newberry Springs. - Route 66 closely parallels the I-40 freeway the rest of the way to Ludlow, my destination today
It's 16h20 and the sun is already starting to go down. I love the late fall sunlight, but not the short days. I still have about 15 miles ahead until I reach Ludlow. - The clouds to my right and behind me are picking up some nice lighting as the sun starts to set on Route 66
There's a lot of old lava in this area, but this creosote bush seems quite happy. - Before leaving Barstow, I make a quick stop at Food For Less to buy a couple of propane bottles
I hate these mall-like places with endless ugly parking lots. Water runs across the pavement here, like everywhere in Barstow today, because fire hydrants have been opened in an effort to drain the contaminated water from the city's supply. - I ride back to Barstow's Route 66 through residential areas and coast down a nice hill on my way out of town
Along the way, I stop at Barstow Station to pick up a bottle of cognac to keep me warm during the cold nights ahead. There's even a begrudgingly skinny bike lane for a few blocks on Barstow's Route 66. - On the outskirts of Barstow, the road dead-ends at a Marine Corps base, so I turn back and get on the freeway for a few miles
A friendly guy at the entrance to the Marine Corps base gives me directions, reassuring me that I only have a few freeway miles to ride. He probably gets several people every day who are lost when their road unexpectedly ends up at the base entrance. - After approximately 2.5 miles on the freeway, I reach Nebo Street and one of those "bicycles must exit" signs
Upon leaving the freeway, a "Historic Route 66" sign points me in the correct direction. - As I approach the Daggett area, I notice this crumbling concrete structure not far from old Route 66
The Newberry Mountains, much of it federally designated Wilderness, sits in the background. - Mugwumps? I pass a former old gas station labeled "Mugwumps," near Daggett's stop sign
Apparently, there was a printing business here for some time. - Route 66 reaches a stop sign as it passes through the little town of Daggett, California
Every now and then, one comes across a big Route 66 logo painted on the pavement. Supposedly, it's mostly Europeans who come here to see Route 66, not Americans. - While riding through Daggett, I stop to check out the old sign for the now-defunct Sportsmans Club
That nice, frothy mug of beer once had a light bulb poking out of each hole, presumably twinkling after dark. A few bulbs remain. - Although it's mostly sunny, some dark clouds are still floating around and mistly lightly upon me from time to time
Luckily, it's not enough rain that I get wet, or need to put on my rain gear. - Also on Route 66 near Daggett is an old California Agricultural Inspection Station, long abandoned
It was built in 1953 and closed in 1967. - Riding east on Route 66 away from Daggett, one of many long freight trains passes by
With strong winds pushing me along, cool weather, and hardly any traffic on this road, it's a great ride today. Most of the traffic is on the freeway that runs in front of the Newberry Mountains at my right: just far enough away that I can't hear its roar. - After several long, straight miles, old Route 66 curves and ducks under the freeway as it enters Newberry Springs
I pass a recently closed gas station just before the freeway, but there's another one coming up just after the underpass. - I take advantage of the gas-station store at Newberry Springs for welcome a caffeine boost: a can of Mountain Dew
The temperature is cool enough that I don't really need to drink something cold. I get an odd sense of déjà vu here, like I've been here before, perhaps because freeway gas stations all feel the same. - I stop in at Barstow's Mojave River Museum for a quick visit before riding on toward Ludlow
I spend about 15 minutes here, but could easily spend longer. I grab a book on old desert water sources to amuse me, and head on, hoping to return for a longer visit later. - The Amtrak bus deposited me yesterday at Barstow Station, just before sunset
After a relaxing day of train and bus travel, I reassemble the 10-ton bike and ride a couple of miles up Barstow's main street (old Route 66) to an inexpensive old motel, passing numerous more modern establishments along the way. - My cabin room at the Route 66 Motel is small and a bit run-down, but the round bed adds unique character
I like the worn-in feel of this place, despite the leaky sink and layers of visible plaster repairs. I hope the rain does stop by early morning as forecast... I rarely watch TV, so I do that here tonight, to see how the other half lives. - Route 66 Motel, Barstow, California
It rained here in Barstow just before I arrived and more cold rain was forecast for the overnight hours. Upon checking in, I was given a bottle of drinking water because the city's water supply has been contaminated. - Several old cars and other antique Route 66 paraphenalia decorate the grounds of Barstow's Route 66 Motel
The rain seems to have stopped. Now I'm waiting for the sun to come out before I pack up and start this bicycle trip. - Another old car in the courtyard of Barstow's Route 66 Motel
In the background at centre-right is a sign for the motel next door. There are many motels along this strip of Route 66 in Barstow. - Among the many antiques on the Route 66 Motel property is this cigarette machine
I remember these, but there's already a whole generation of people who haven't ever seen one of these vending machines operational. - Barstow's downtown area has many older, modest dwellings built along desert hillsides
These older areas are picturesque compared to the bland suburban tract housing that surrounds them, and which dominate most of this small city. - A 24-hour donut shop on Barstow's Route 66 is closed due to the water contamination
You can't make donuts or coffee without potable drinking water. - El Rancho Barstow is one of many older motels along Route 66 in central Barstow
Unfortunately, a sign here offers "move-in specials," so I passed it up. - I grab some breakfast at Barstow's Village Café, which is probably cooking with the bad city water, since they're still open
I like the old cash register in this Chinese-American establishment. I've only been out of San José for a day and I already miss Asian food, since it's what I eat most. - Bummer, no Chinese breakfast on the menu (who would order such "weird stuff"?), so I order scrambled eggs and bacon
The otherwise unremarkable breakfast gets a kick when the waiter asks me if I like it "really hot" (I asked for hot sauce, expecting Tobasco). His "really hot" sauce is Chinese chili paste: nice, tasty, and fortunately not as hot as the chili oil I make at home! Thanks! - The rain stopped, the sun shining, I leave Route 66 Motel and detour a mile up Barstow Rd to the Mojave River Museum
Wow, this short ride up the hill, only a mile with 200 feet of elevation gain, is killing me! How will I make it the rest of the way to Ludlow today, 50 miles away? - Outside the Mojave River Museum in Barstow is an old exterior cage-style jail cell
One of these old jail cells is also on display outside Kelso Depot in Mojave National Preserve. - Yesterday, I took the Amtrak San Joaquin train with my bicycle down California's Central Valley
Many Amtrak trains do not accept unboxed bicycles, but this one does, and it even has a nice rack. This makes a bicycle trip so convenient. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Brant Hills to Baker via old Mojave Road, Mojave National Preserve
51.9 bicycle miles with 1600 feet of elevation gain and 4600 feet of elevation loss (exaggerated by the GPS software). - Bicycle route from Brant Hills to Baker via old Mojave Road, Mojave National Preserve
51.9 bicycle miles with 1600 feet of elevation gain and 4600 feet of elevation loss (exaggerated by the GPS software). - I stop briefly at Kelbaker Road's 10-mile curve, which means just 10 more miles until I reach Baker
Baker = food, shower, and bed. - From Kelbaker Road's 10-mile curve, the town of Baker doesn't look like it's still 10 miles away
It also doesn't look like I'm still 1000 feet higher than Baker because the downhill slope is so gradual. - On the way to Baker, I look back at the cinder cones and the Kelbaker Hills several times
It's always with mixed feelings that I pedal my way to the end of a trip. There's more that I want to explore out here. However, until the next trip, I'll accept the the feeling of accomplishment from this eventful and pleasant two-week journey. - There it is: Baker, California, the end (and beginning) of this trip
I check in for a night at the Wills Fargo Motel, get a shower and have a big meal at Los Dos Toritos. It has been a privilege to disconnect from the world for two weeks. Tomorrow morning I'll take the Amtrak bus and train back to San José. It's done! - I pass lots of desert senna flowers exuding their sweet scent as I ride down Kelbaker Road
I'm riding into a strong headwind, so I find myself pedalling, even though I'm heading downhill. With almost no traffic on the road, it's an enjoyable ride, as always - I zoom in across an expanse of yellow creosote-bush blooms to one of the nearby cinder cones
This is an area that I've passed through many times, but haven't explored as much as I'd like. - I reach the junction of Aiken Mine Road, ending the enjoyable ride down the old Mojave Road
I turn left here and head over toward the pavement of Kelbaker Road, not wanting to deal with the deep sand on the portion of the Mojave Road just ahead. - Scattered lava rock, sand, and washboard texture define the half-mile-long ride on Aiken Mine Road, my final unpaved road
I rode most of Aiken Mine Road's 20 miles last year and it deserves another visit. - I take an energy-bar break when I reach the pavement of Kelbaker Road at 3000 feet elevation
Just 20 miles and 2000 feet of elevation loss until I reach Baker. It is quite warm here, but not scorching like when I stopped here on my way up to the Kelso Peak area on the first day of this trip. - I arrive at the famous Mojave Road mailbox in the middle of nowhere and sign its guest book
People sometimes leave supplies here; a couple of tires sit near the mailbox. - I pull out the guest book from the Mojave Road mailbox and sign in
Sometimes the Mojave Road mailbox contains useful items, such as the small bottle of water here today. Mostly it contains a lot of business cards. Of course I like the "Share the trail" sticker that someone applied here. - The old Mojave Road gets a bit more sandy as I head westward (and downward) after my stop at the Mojave Road mailbox
Parts of the Mojave Road are carved into the desert landscape; I wonder if it acts as a drainage corridor during heavy rains... - I like the occasional rocky stretches on the old Mojave Road because they add traction to the sandy road
Nice views across the valley to the Old Dad Mountain area as I ski my way down the hill. Mountain bikes (with wide tires) are perfect for this. - A few purple sages bloom on this part of the old Mojave Road amongst the yellow flowers
The joshua trees thin out as I lose elevation, and soon there will be no more. - I pause when I cross the junction of Rainbow Wells Road to enjoy the view across to the Providence Mountains
This would make an interesting route down to Kelso Depot, but wouldn't be easy in the uphill direction due to the sand. The low mountain on the way down looks like a good place for a secluded camp and hike. - I take a break near the Mojave Road junction for an energy bar, water, and to apply more sunscreen
I'm sweating a lot now. There's more heat in this area than I've experienced during the past few days. I enjoy looking down the powerline road that I've just ridden, and the minimalist curve of Cima Dome on the horizon. - I turn here and begin the short climb up to the summit of the old Mojave Road, after which the big downhill of the day begins
The sandy downhill behind me leads to Marl Spring, which I visited in 2006. I was going to stop there on this trip too, but fortunately learned that it has no water this spring. - From the summit of the Mojave Road at about 4550 feet, I have a nice view across the Marl Mountains to the Kelso Dunes
... with the intrusion of a transmission tower. - Nice view across the flank of Cima Dome and the powerline road that I just finished riding, from the summit of the Mojave Road
I can even see beyond the ghostly row of transmission towers all the way to the turrets of the Castle Peaks, where I camped and hiked a few days ago. - I'm ready to start the Mojave Road downhill ahead of me
I'll drop down to 3000 feet elevation from here at around 4550 feet, during the next six or seven miles. Break is over, time to start riding! - The old Mojave Road heads briefly southwest; I'm heading toward the Old Dad Mountain area for a short while
From here I can see scenic Jackass Canyon Road rising slowly up into the mountains, that faint line at the distant right. - Parts of the old Mojave Road are like a roller coaster, rising and falling gently over the desert terrain
I now remember why I enjoyed the ride here on the Mojave Road during my 2006 trip. - Up, down, up, down, on the old Mojave Road; my fat tires hiss in the sand
Since I'm heading downhill, it's a lot of fun, though a bit slippery in places. However, I probably won't try this road on a bicycle in the uphill direction. - The old Mojave Road continues rolling onward downhill; the loose sand on the road surface makes it feel a bit like skiing
The fresh tire tracks here are a reminder that the Mojave Road does get a fair amount of recreational traffic, but I haven't run into anyone here yet today. - One of several primroses blooms on the shoulder of Cima Road
I've only seen a few of these during my two weeks here in Mojave National Preserve. - Before turning off at the unpaved powerline road, I take a look behind me back down toward Cima
From here I can see over to the pointy spires of Mojave National Preserve's Eagle Rocks, where I hiked a week ago. - I start riding up the powerline road, pass an electrical substation, then reach a closed gate
Numerous tire tracks have arrived here and then turned around. At first I think the gate is permanent and can't be opened. I persevere and realize that the gate is actually easy to open. I pass through, and close the gate behind me. - The powerline road starts out evenly, but I run into a short steep hill, as expected
Mojave Desert powerline roads are notorious for tracing straight lines across the land, ignoring the contours. This little hill isn't much compared to some I've seen. - The power lines here add extra height to the joshua-tree forest
It's all slowly uphill along here until I reach the high point at about 4650 feet elevation. Pedalling the 10-ton bike is going well; I'm energized and enjoying the scenery. - I'm high enough now on the flank of Cima Dome that I can see across Kelso Valley to the Granite Mountains
I can also see the Kelso Dunes from here. - I zoom in past the transmission tower for a closer view of the Kelso Dunes
I can't get much closer to Kelso Dunes with my cheap digital camera. Lots of cholla cactus grow in this area along with the joshua trees. - To the east I can see Macedonia Canyon Road climbing the fan out of Kelso Valley into the Mid Hills
I haven't come down the lower part of the road that I can see from here, but I did hike the area of upper Macedonia Canyon last year. - I've crossed the high point of the powerline road and now have a bit of downhill ahead of me; this will be a fun change
I'll make a right turn onto the old Mojave Road when I get close to the top of that hill ahead. It's not as steep as it looks. - A handmade sign warns of the dangers of the Mojave Green rattlesnake
"Work safe and be a storyteller, not the story." I haven't encountered a Mojave Green yet, but they are said to be quite agressive. - Across upper Ivanpah Valley is the summit of Cima Dome, so subtle that it can only be perceived from a distance
The powerline road that I crossed yesterday near Nipton arcs across the joshua-tree forest. I'll join up with this road in a while and ride several miles of it along the flank of Cima Dome. - Roughly two miles before Cima, I cross an intersection with an unsigned dirt road to my right; I continue straight ahead
According to my maps, this side road leads over to Morning Star Mine Road, passing an old corral along the way. I should try that road some day. - Nice to see a few cheerful orange desert-mallow flowers again, this time framing my glance toward Butcher Knife Canyon
Mojave National Preserve's Butcher Knife Canyon, which I visited in 2008, is the low spot in the New York Mountains at the distant centre-left. - The double culvert under this trestle along Brant Road near Cima bears two different date inscriptions
The left culvert is labelled 1928, while the right displays 1926. - As I approach Cima, another freight train churns by, a few feet away from me as I ride along Brant Road
If I were driving a motor vehicle and occupying both tracks of Brant Road, I would be even closer to that train! - Several of the tanks whooshing by me are labelled as "corn sweetener"
I guess that means high-fructose corn syrup. Blech, but better than caustic chemicals in the event of a train derailment. This is why you're fat dot com. - I reach the end of the unpaved Brant Road and rejoin asphalt near the three-way stop at Cima, and automobile traffic
Wow, the 20+ miles of Brant Road has been a much easier and less stressful route from Nipton to Cima than expected, compared to the exhausting climb up Morning Star Mine Road and its speeding traffic. - I take a break at the Cima Store; it's open!
I buy a can of Coke, which I rarely drink except on bicycle trips (too sweet), and pig out on two bags of potato chips, one with salt and pepper. I dump my trash in the garbage can here and refill my Camelbak with water that I've carried from Nipton. - I start the 1.5-mile ride up Cima Road to the powerline road, passing an abandoned house on the way out of "town"
It's nice to be on pavement again, if only for less than two miles! I did a brief walk-through of that house during my spring 2009 trip out here. - Despite the fairly high elevation (over 4000 feet here), Cima Road is apparently subject to flash floods during heavy rains
The big outcrop ahead called Teutonia Peak pokes out of Cima Dome. I can see the power lines, where I'll leave pavement again, in front of that landmark. - Approaching the power lines that cross Cima Road, I start looking for the dirt road that I'll follow somewhere at my left
I've gained about 200 feet elevation since leaving Cima; the rise feels so easy since I've hardly ridden on pavement during the past day or so. - I look across the train tracks from Brant Road toward the Sacaton Spring area
Sacaton Spring is another area that I haven't gotten around to visiting yet. In the distant New York Mountains hills is the area of Butcher Mine Canyon that I visited in 2008. - Brant Road hugs the train track as it curves to follow the route toward Cima, Mojave National Preserve
Brant Road really hugs the tracks along this stretch. Fortunately, one of the tracks is gravel-free and makes for decent single-track bicycling. - The conductor of an oncoming train toots his horn and waves at me at Joshua siding, Mojave National Preserve
Cool! I wave back. - The 10-ton bike hides in the shade of the trestle at Joshua siding while a freight train rumbles overhead
I prefer resting the bike against an upright object. Picking up the bike after laying it on the ground creates lateral pressure that has occasionally jiggled my rear wheel out of alignment during this trip. - This is a pensive, scenic ride on Brant Road toward Cima
I spend a lot of time looking at the thousands of joshua trees that recede into the distance on the slope of Cima Dome. - I ride through the sandy area at the end of the road and arrive at the train tracks in Ivanpah Valley
I see my tire tracks from yesterday. - Several of the rail supports are crooked and one has cracked
The wood here was once painted, but not much paint remains. How much longer will this last? - The 10-ton bike breaks briefly under the train trestle at Brant Road
I'm as fascinated today as I was yesterday by the crooked beams that support the rail along the trestle. - I start riding up lonesome Brant Road toward Cima, my next stop, and a train passes
This is a road of aural contrast: intense noise whenever a train passes a few feet away on my left, followed by the silence of the Mojave Desert wilderness. The effect is not unpleasant and stressful like a road with constant automobile traffic. - I slam on the brakes while coasting down to a wash crossing on Brant Road, due to a "special rock" in the road
It's not a rock, but a tortoise, the first one I've ever seen. I haven't seen a car on this road yet today, but he's resting in one of Brant Road's two tire tracks. - The tortoise appears to see me approaching
His front legs are no longer protruded as they were at first. I take numerous photos and enjoy watching this slow and heavily armoured animal. - Close up, I notice that the tortoise is pinkish around his mouth, and it doesn't look like part of his natural complexion
I know little about these animals except that they do eat flowers, so I wonder if the pink is staining from a flower eaten recently. - Tortoises shouldn't be touched, but they also shouldn't be left in a rocky road where a passing car might inadvertently crush it
I approach the tortoise to remove it from the road and he retracts his head and hisses in self-defense. - I pick up the tortoise and put him down amidst some flowers, encelias perhaps, off the road
I keep wondering if maybe I should relocate him far from the road, instead of to a nearby non-road location, but it doesn't seem like a good idea to carry the tortoise a long distance. - A bit further up Brant Road, I stop to look across the tortoise's habitat, and down toward Ivanpah Dry Lake
I haven't seen any pink cactus flowers that the tortoise might have eaten, but I do some pink blooms of Range ratany. Do tortoises eat those flowers? - Brant Road dips down again to cross a wash, with the adjacent train tracks crossing the wash on an old concrete bridge
This trestle is dated 1926, like some others along Brant Road. - I finally get past the rocky part of the road to a more ridable stretch
This part of the road is a bit sandy and eroded, but it is slightly downhill and rides reasonably well on the 10-ton bike's fat 2.3-inch tires. However, I wouldn't try driving a passenger car up this road! - As I approach the bottom of the road, I look back up toward the New York Mountains and the area where I camped last night
This wasn't one of those fast and thrilling bicycle downhills, but it was still a fun 2.5 miles, and it didn't take long. - I zoom in for a closer look at the New York Mountains
There's a lot of remote land up there to explore, if you can get to it. I wish I had the time to spend another day here. - The 10-ton bike packed up, off I go down the hill toward Ivanpah Valley
Not so quickly though! This part of the road is so bumpy that I carefully walk the bike at first instead of riding it. I'm hoping to keep my rear wheel from loosening up again by minimizing harsh vibration. - The old road doesn't stand out much as it crawls down the fan toward the Ivanpah Valley train tracks
I've seen the gentle curve of Cima Dome from many angles during this trip; I'll ride through its joshua-tree forest later today. - On my way back to the tent after brushing my teeth, a yucca spine impales the tube of toothpaste protruding from my pocket
This campsite sits in a tight space, so I'm constantly avoiding rocks and plants when coming and going. I haven't gotten poked by anything yet, but this is a close call. - The job is almost done: tent disassembled, my supplies hop into my saddlebags one item at a time
The curve of Cima Dome sits in the distance; I'll start my trek in that direction once I finish setting up the 10-ton bike. - I enjoy cold coffee and eat breakfast while packing up to leave Ivanpah Valley
Of course I would prefer iced coffee, but my water is refreshing enough, still cool from the overnight sweater-weather temperature. A few bees feast on the buckwheat flowers outside my tent; busy, they leave me alone. I usually dislike instant coffee, but this Starbuck's Via coffee is pretty good. - I wake up early and look outside to another warm sunny day: sadly, the final morning of this trip
With about 50 miles of riding ahead of me today, much of it downhill and some of it on roads I haven't travelled before, the trip is definitely not done yet, even though this is my last day. - The first major task of the day is to fix my flat front tire, so I can actually go somewhere
The tire has been sputtering "Slime" during much of the trip, but successfully repaired itself over and over until yesterday. I replace the tube, happy that this is the only flat I've had during this trip. - A colourful and very long freight train crosses the Ivanpah Valley a couple of miles down the fan from my tent
Alternating blue and rust rectangles stripe a snake quite different from those usually seen in the Mojave Desert. - Something seems to have bitten my leg yesterday, but I don't remember it happening
It sure is itchy! - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Nipton to Brant Hills
19 bicycle miles and over 1000 feet of elevation gain. - Bicycle route from Nipton to Brant Hills
19 bicycle miles and over 1000 feet of elevation gain. - I pause to take a look at a mature pinon pine along the old road
The hills of the New York Mountains are radiant with the golden glow of sunset. - I walk down the old road, enjoying the sunset
This is a transition zone, where the cholla cacti and buckwheats common down below, mesh with the pinon-and-juniper forest above. - A fire ring exists for those who come up here to camp
Someone had a campfire here not too long ago. - I look back up the dry creek bed and at the hills behind collecting the sunset
I wish I had more time to explore and know that I'll be back here some day during a future trip. - I pass the last of the pinnacles as I descend down the fan toward my campsite perched above Ivanpah Valley
In the distance, the crest of the Clark Mountain Range peers above the Ivanpah Mountains on the far side of Ivanpah Valley. - A few barrel cacti grow in the transition zone here between creosote-bush desert and the woodlands of the New York Mountains
... and a lot of pinkish-white buckwheat flowers as well. - A Wilderness marker blocks an old road on the way back to my campsite above Ivanpah Valley
The former road is barely visible... - I make it back to my tent overlooking Ivanpah Valley just before dusk
The 10-ton bike with its flat front tire rests peacefully along the road. - The final moments of sunset cast red across the New York Mountains hilltops
After my instant meal, I spend a lot of time standing outside my tent under the nearly-full moon, listening to the quiet and enjoying the moonlight. Falling asleep is so easy tonight. It hasn't been a really strenuous day, but I'm tired. - This crossing of the old road over the stream is still in really good condition
After several decades, and perhaps a century, that's quite remarkable. - Water trickling down the rocks creates a small brook
I wonder if there's always so much water here, of if it's usually dry here at this time of year. We had some extra rain this spring. - I notice another small, clean pool of water in the rock just below
This is probably a big stream during the winter when this area receives runoff from melting snow in the New York Mountains above. - An even larger pool of water sits in the shade a little higher up
It's a fun change to be hopping across rocks in the water during a trip in the dry Mojave Desert. - A long freight train slowly crosses the Ivanpah Valley below
It seems so far away in the open space of the Mojave Desert, but it's only a couple of miles away. - I look at these rocky hills and think it would be fun to climb one of them during the brief time I'm here
My itinerary allowed for a possible extra day here to explore this area, but I have to be back at work in a few days. - Sunset is approaching, so it's time to turn around and start the mile-long walk back to the tent
I brought my flashlight in case I would continue my walk after dark. - I continue my walk up the old road, which is increasingly grown-in
The road is the area to the right of the line of rocks in the middle-right in the photo. - Lo and behold, a pool of water!
I know that water sometimes exists here, but I wasn't expecting to find any so late in the year. - Actually, a couple of pools of water remain in the rocks
Algae is growing in the upper pool, but the lower pool is incredibly clean. The wildlife in the neighbourhood must be happy. - The old road winds across the fan, then turns sharply left to begin its climb into the New York Mountains
I manage to ride most of the road here at a slow speed, but it is sporadically quite sandy. - The road is discernable, but obviously not used very often
Onward and upward we go! - The uphill road isn't steep, but it's too rocky for me to ride on the 10-ton bike, so I get off and walk
I start looking for a campsite since I can't ride any more and the road is likely to get worse, not better; how far will I go beyond here? - On the way up the hill, my front tire goes flat despite my Slime-filled inner tube
I would continue walking the bike up the hill, but I don't feel like fixing a flat tire right now. Instead, I look for an open spot to become my campsite for the night. - Finding a campsite is tricky in this area above Ivanpah Valley because there are hardly any open spaces between plants
I end up cautiously pitching my tent tightly between two yuccas and try not to crush the flowering buckwheat in front of my tent as I go in and out. - After a short rest in the tent and an energy bar, it's time for a walk up into the nearby New York Mountains foothills
Sunset is approaching, the best time to be outside in the Mojave Desert. It's a bit warm in the tent from the sun shining on it, but the temperature is otherwise perfect; I put on my sweater for the walk. - Some pinnacles and rock piles make for another classic New York Mountains landscape
The presence of junipers here makes it quite different than just down the hill at my tent. - An interesting find is this old rock wall
This might be remnants of some kind of shelter, or perhaps a small corral. - The top of this rock pile reminds me of a vulture's head
Rock formations can be quite evocative. I clearly remember "Sleeping-Head Rock" on the other side of the New York Mountains in Keystone Canyon. - I walk around the old rock wall and look down across the Ivanpah Valley
That should be Kessler Peak over there at centre-left. I've camped several times on the other side of the peak in the Sunrise Rock area off Cima Road, but have never seen it from this viewpoint. - Upon further inspection, a scrubby shrub looks like it might be some kind of oak tree
I've read about a species of oak that lives here in the desert mountains, but haven't learned to identify it. - Someone lost a hubcap here on Brant Road
Oops! I haven't seen any vehicles on Brant Road today, but it appears to be travelled regularly. - I reach the first of two roads that lead up toward the New York Mountains off Brant Road
This one passes through a sandy drainage under the train tracks and doesn't look like much of a road, so I ride on further to see if the second road is any better (it can't be much worse). - I continue riding up the road toward Brant siding, where there is supposed to be another road leading up into the hills
Brant siding is probably that little grey box up ahead. - I reach what is indicated on my maps and GPS as Brant siding, but find no road crossing over or under the tracks
I climb up over the tracks to assess whether or not it's feasible to bring the bike over the tracks and connect to the road that's supposed to exist on the other side. Nice view of the Castle Peaks turrets looking back down the tracks from here. - I discover an old structure and corral on the other side of the tracks at Brant siding
The chicken wire suggests that this may have been a bird pen. I quickly decide that climbing over the tracks at Brant siding with the 10-ton bike would be more difficult than riding the sandy road I passed a while ago. - Scattered old trash is also found on the other side of the tracks at Brant siding
A datura blooms.