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- I'm enjoying the hike up this part of Hyten Spring Wash with its occasional little dry waterfalls to climb over
I've run into no steep and difficult climbs so far today, so I'm making good time, mileage-wise. - As for a pool of water at Hyten Spring, this litle tank in the rock is all I find today
It's a bit scummy, but could be filtered if I really needed it. There's so little water here that I'd hate to steal it from the wildlife (I can get more at Ludlow tomorrow). - Interesting rock spikes along the wall of the wash, Kelso Dunes Wilderness
I tempted to climb up one of these little hills, but I'm on a mission to see if I can get back to my tent by dark. - Time to boil water for tonight's instant meal: Mountain House Teriyaki Chicken and Rice
A satisfying meal after a satisfying hike! A relaxing, and quiet evening, except for the occasional distant train sounds, which are almost soothing at this distance. It's good sleeping weather tonight: low 40s. - Back on the powerline road, less than two miles of hiking to go
The lighting is great at this time of day as the sun prepares to set. - 20 minutes later, I stop for another break further out on Broadwell Dry Lake
Time to stop for an energy bar; I send a text message. I listen to silence. And the wind. - I stop briefly on Crucero Road as I pass the powerline road leading toward the Bristol Mountains Wilderness
I camped on the edge of that Wilderness last year and would like to explore those dry mountains more. I would go there as part of this trip if I had a couple more days off work... - A cactus thorn punctures my tire and some Slime spurts out to fill the wound
Luckily, my tire doesn't lose much air before the puncture is sealed, so I don't even need to pump up my tire. Slime does a great job on fixing small punctures like this, even though it can make an awful mess on a big puncture that it can't repair. - Big rigs park at the Ludlow gas station with the Sleeping Beauty mountains as a sunset backdrop
Gee, I was up on one of those ridges a few days ago... Tomorrow I'll head to the Cady Mountains, behind Sleeping Beauty for one last hike before I head back to San José. I watch pointless crime shows on TV, send texts from my motel room, and sleep well. - I stop just before starting the ride across Broadwell Dry Lake to check out a couple of big mushrooms
I don't often see mushrooms in the desert, but there must be significant moisture accumulation here at times on the edge of the Broadwell Dry Lake. - There's nobody else out here on Broadwell Dry Lake today, so it's very peaceful
That will probably change tomorrow with the Thanksgiving holiday in swing. I was hoping to miss the Thanksgiving rush by riding here today! This area is fairly popular with four-wheel drive folks and dirt-bikers, as I learned last year. - First, I ride down the bumpy powerline road 1.7 miles back to Crucero Road
I'll make a left at Crucero Road toward Broadwell Dry Lake and Ludlow, but I'm looking at the Cady Mountains further ahead where I'll do a hike a couple of days from now. - There's a bit of a wind this morning as I pack up to leave Kelso Dunes Wilderness; my now-empty tent blows over
I needed to sleep in a bit today, so I did! I keep looking at the area behind me leading up into the Bristol Mountains, thinking I'd like to do a hike up there. Another future destination! - Hyten Spring hike elevation, Kelso Dunes Wilderness
19 hiking miles and about 2200 feet of elevation gain. - A bird's nest in a catclaw bush in Kelso Dunes Wilderness
I wonder who lives up there... - A series of cavelets is clustered in a hill along this wash in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness
There's probably a packrat nest in each of those cavelets! - On my way down out of the Bristol Mountains, I pass a few Rush milkweeds in flowers
I saw a few of these Asclepias subulata a few miles away last year, but wouldn't have known what they are except for Lee's identification (thanks Lee). - Further down in a Bristol Mountains wash are a number of low, reddish buckwheat tufts
I sometimes see these along paved roads in the Mojave Desert, but didn't always realize that they are in the buckwheat family. - Further down Hyten Spring Wash, I get expansive views across Crucero Valley
Some of the land a bit further to the right is in the far-western portion of Mojave National Preserve, which I don't enter during this trip. I'll turn left when I reach the transmission tower in the middle of the photo (can you see it?). - I spend a lot of time snapping photos as the sun goes down on the powerline road
The colors change by the minute at this time of day. - To my surprise, I'm back at my tent at 16h40, before total darkness; I was expecting to need my flashlight on the way home
The grade was gradual during most of today's 19-mile hike, so I often walked quickly. I haven't seen any other people today, and it's time to write a few notes and think about my evening meal! - For the return hike back to my tent, I follow a different wash down to the powerline road from Hyten Spring
My tent is behind that part of the Bristol Mountains ahead (which I wish I had time to explore), so I'll walk around them to the right. I've seen no people today, but a few cairns and faded footprints say that the area is visited occasionally. - I've just passed an open area where I had to choose which route I'll take to Hyten Spring
I'm now on my way to that saddle just ahead above Hyten Spring. - This is the high-elevation point of my day, at roughly 3000 feet in the Bristol Mountains, a bit above nearby Hyten Spring
My cell phone works here; I use it. I take an extended water-and-energy-bar break, enjoying the views before heading down to Hyten Spring, below on my left. Last year, I enjoyed hikes in the area beyond the almost flat-topped hill in the distance. - After climbing over a couple of hills, I drop down into a little canyon ahead where I should find Hyten Spring
I usually carry maps with me, but a GPS makes navigation across contorted terrain like this so much easier. - On the way down the hill to Hyten Spring, I stop to look at some of the Desert holly plants that grow here
There are a lot of these growing in this area. They don't mind the rocky soil around here as much as many other desert plants. - And here it is: Hyten Spring, Bristol Mountains, Kelso Dunes Wilderness
There's hardly any water here, but since it's the only spring in the Bristol Mountains, it's quite significant in its own little world. I walk a little further down the hill before turning around, wishing I had time to continue even further. - A few pink buckwheat flowers near Hyten Spring, Kelso Dunes Wilderness
With so few flowers in the Mojave Desert at this time of year, these little flowers do stand out. - I pass a number of cholla cacti on the way up the wash into the Bristol Mountains
I've hiked about 4.5 miles so far, on my way up into the mountains ahead. I seem to be hiking at a steady 3 miles per hour on this extended, slightly uphill, stretch. - I hear some noise, look up, and notice an owl, noticing me
We watch each other peacefully for a few minutes. - This hike is progressing slowly; I'm finally entering the mountain zone as I walk through this gateway
Looking forward to getting up in those hills ahead! - A number of small barrel cacti adorn this rock wall in Hyten Spring Wash in the Bristol Mountains
I wonder how high the water gets here during wet weather... - The rocky terrain gets more interesting as I slowly get higher up this Bristol Mountains wash
The wash has narrowed; the hike becomes more intimate. - Another cool rock wall in Hyten Spring wash
There's an interesting side wash here that would be fun to explore, but I decide to stick to my planned route. - I notice several hawks and ravens flying around as I continue hiking up the wash toward Hyten Spring
They don't see many people out here! - I climb up a small dry waterfall in Hyten Spring Wash and look back down
It looks like water pools down there after a good rain. - Before reaching the wash that leads up to the Hyten Spring area, I hike cross-country around the left end of the mountains ahead
It's rocky terrain, a bit up-and-down, and it slows me down, but it's more interesting than hiking the nearby powerline road. I could have set up camp last night a bit further down the powerline road to make today's hike a little shorter. - I start hiking up Hyten Spring Wash and encounter several coyote melons left from earlier this year
It's not steep, but I'm gaining elevation at a slow and constant rate nonetheless. The cool morning is warming up, so I take off my sweater and start hiking in short sleeves. - I'm up early this morning for the hike to Hyten Spring that I didn't get around to doing last year
Another nice morning. Even though it was chilly last night, I was too hot sometimes in my winter sleeping bag, and didn't sleep all that well (was up at 1h eating turkey jerky to help me fall back asleep). A quick breakfast and coffee, and I'm on my way. Three cups of coffee today instead of the usual two. With close to 20 hiking miles ahead of me, I figure I'll need it. - Sleeping Beauty hike, elevation profile
4.2 hiking miles, approximately 1500 feet elevation gain. - The star of the show this evening is Backpacker's Pantry Beef and Broccoli Stir-Fry
This is one of my favorite add-boiling-water-to-bag meals. It's supposed to serve two people, but I find it's perfect for one hungry hiker-biker. - In the bag, Backpacker's Pantry Beef and broccoli Stir-Fry doesn't look like much, but it's good!
Like most of these instant meals, it's rather light on the meat, which I like, and I get my rice dose for the day. - A relaxing evening in the tent, with my sweaters on, and I sleep really well in my new, warm winter sleeping bag
I have a few sips of brandy after my evening meal and get to sleep around 23h30. It's chilly, down to 40F. I step outside numerous times to enjoy the bright stars and the Milky Way; no moonlight tonight and no clouds. I listen to the sounds coming from a few miles further down the hill: trains passing by, residual freeway rumble, occasional airplanes, and a few booming sounds, presumable from the military base down there. - Closer inspection of the little cave shows smoke stains on the roof
Now I'm wondering how old those smoke stains are, and who made them. Early miners a century ago? Native Americans? No ashes here, so the smoke stains aren't all that recent. - A few very early Desert mallow blossoms are about to open in this Sleeping Beauty canyon
I wonder if this area will be decorated with a lot of these flowers during the spring season, like some other Mojave Desert areas. - A river of rock flows down a hill toward this Sleeping Beauty canyon
I would like to witness some of these rocks in their downhill movement... - Well, my planned hike down this side canyon in the Sleeping Beauty mountains instantly ends when I reach a 10-foot drop-off
Spectacular. It's narrow here, with no obvious way to easily climb down around the drop-off, so I'll turn back and climb over the hills and try a different way back down out of the mountains. - I'm up above the drop-off now in the Sleeping Beauty foothills
I'll try hiking down the gully straight ahead of me to get back to my campsite. - I look behind me at the lower part of the Sleeping Beauty canyon I've just descended
Great colors here, the contrasts perhaps increased a little by my Canon point-and-shoot pocket camera. - I cross a dry, sandy wash on the way back to my tent
I'll climb over the hill on the other side in that drainage area. - I've seen several of these little yellow flowers on today's hike
This reminds me of Goldfields (Lasthenia californica). - Climbing out of the sandy wash, a few big rocks, and a lot of small ones
Not much soil here, so not many plants growing! - I'm almost back at the tent, with Sleeping Beauty behind me, right at sunset
A couple of miles down below, I can see cars on the I-40 freeway. - Back home for the night in the Sleeping Beauty foothills, what a great hike that was today!
Now I'm hungry, but I wait until after dark to make my instant backpacker's meal. - Hmmm, a little cave on the side of this canyon in the Sleeping Beauty mountains
I have to go over and check it out. A noisy hawk flies overhead, and I wonder which area cavelet s/he lives in. - I take a look at a small dry waterfall in this unnamed Sleeping Beauty canyon that I just climbed around
The area to the left is an easy way around this little drop-off. How would this look with water flowing? - I pass a patch of brilliant rabbitbrush on the way down this Sleeping Beauty canyon
I have one of these in my garden at home! - I study my maps a bit and backtrack a quarter-mile up the canyon before turning right and climbing over a rocky ridge
With the awesome scenery here, I'm happy to explore the area longer. However, daylight expires quite soon at this time of year, and I'd rather not be climbing rocky hills after dark. - On the way up the steep, rocky hill, I notice many of those daisy-like plants of which I've seen many today
Most of these aren't flowering yet. I'm guessing that within a couple of weeks, there will be a lot more white flowers with yellow centers than I'm seeing now. - I've made it up to the ridge and have great views toward my campsite down below Sleeping Beauty (which I can't see yet)
I take a good look at the hill below me; steep, but the large rocks will probably provide good footing, unless they are really loose. I'll see shortly! - Such a beautiful canyon to descend during the hike back to my tent from Sleeping Beauty
...especially in the late-afternoon November Mojave Desert sunlight. - Now that I've almost reached the bottom of this Sleeping Beauty Canyon, I take a look back up behind me
I tend to get vertigo often, but not while inching my way down this hill, despite the steepness. Perhaps the beauty of the area distracted me such that I forgot about vertigo. - The Mojave Desert is full of interesting and colourful rocks and earth
... and this Sleeping Beauty canyon is no exception in its lower area with its greenish earth and rusty boulders. - Oops, just when I'm not expecting any further obstacles, I encounter a 15-foot drop-off in the drainage that I'm hiking
However, it's easy to walk over a nearby hill to get around this. - I take note of small tufts growing in the rocks as I walk down this Sleeping Beauty canyon that I didn't plan to explore
Some of these plants are desert holly. - I head down into the shade in the Sleeping Beauty mountains
I figure I'll probably exit the mountains on the fan a mile or so northwest of my campsite, and then hike back to my tent on flatter land. - There are a few Mojave asters flowering here today, which I don't expect in November
However, most of the blossoms are old ones from the last season. - Ah ha! A special desert flower that's occasionally found even in the most remote Mojave Desert locales: an old balloon
In this case, it's still attached to its original string, and impaled on a creosote bush. - Bright, sunny morning, cool breeze, perfect for the hike that I've planned up the adjacent Sleeping Beauty hills
I'm a bit tired from yesterday's ride from Barstow to here, but feeling pretty good, and happy to be here. - After a slow, relaxed morning in the sun, I'm finally setting out on today's Sleeping Beauty hike
Where did the morning go?!?! A couple of cups of instant Starbuck's Via coffee, some notes written in my journal, and some breakfast goodies eaten (granola, almonds, dried fruit). Explored the area around my tent quite a bit. - I cross a greenish-looking drainage on my way across the Sleeping Beauty foothills
I'll start my way up the hillside shortly. I have no idea how far uphill I can go. I'll just enjoy the journey, however it proceeds. - I start hiking up a slope that I identifed as a possible route up Sleeping Beauty while doing my homework before this trip
I recorded a couple of routes on my Delorme GPS so I could consult them on my way up the rocky hills here. - I'm careful and slow as I hike up the loose rock here on Sleeping Beauty
I get vertigo easily, and am not sure if perhaps I'll run into some problems ahead on the loose rock here, but so far, so good. - A look back down the hill behind me says I'm making progress on my Sleeping Beauty climb
Again, so far, so good; lets see how far I can go before the vertigo bug gets me! - Here and there, I run into a few of these flowers on the slopes of Sleeping Beauty, mostly in relatively shaded areas
Not sure what these "daisies" are... - A little further up Sleeping Beauty, I pass around this large rock outcrop
Steep, but so far, so good! - A bit past the rock outcrop, I continue up a ridge above a steep-sided drainage on the side of Sleeping Beauty
Little by little, so far so good! - I'm getting closer to the Sleeping Beauty peaks, but I still have a distance to go
This part isn't too steep, so I continue straight ahead a bit further before deciding up on my next uphill move. - I zoom in on some nice views across the hills as I gain elevation in the Sleeping Beauty mountains
That straight road down in the distance should be the dirt road that I rode last night in the dark off the freeway toward my camp site. - There's one of the Sleeping Beauty peaks up above me; how close can I get without getting vertigo?
I'll head straight up a bit further, then off to my right toward a saddle that should be fairly easy to reach. - Delicious views as I arrive at a saddle high up in the Sleeping Beauty mountains
Actually, it's not that high, only about 3800 feet elevation, but it's plenty high to have rewarding views. I love the specks on the desert below, which are probably individual creosote bushes. - I take a half-hour break on this saddle in the Sleeping Beauty mountains, eat an energy bar, and suck back more water
I decide not to climb up the last little bit to what might be an official summit (too vertigo-inducing for my tastes), and consider climbing back down via a route in front of me. - Well, I probably could climb down that way, in front of me, but I decide to check my maps first
I'm not sure why, but I decide to try descending via a canyon on the west side of the Sleeping Beauty hills instead of down the hill in front of me. The unknown sometimes has a certain attraction. - Day 8: Elevation profile of bicycle route from Newberry Mountains to Barstow by on Route 66
16.6 bicycle miles. - Day 8: Bicycle route from Newberry Mountains to Barstow by on Route 66
16.6 bicycle miles. - Barstow Station: I enjoy an early lunch in one of the refurbished train cars while waiting for the Amtrak bus
This has got to be one of the most interesting (architecturally) food courts anywhere, and it's in Barstow of all places! I pass on the McDonalds of course, but there is a Panda Express and a Filipino counter for us rice eaters. - The 10-ton bike waits patiently for the Amtrak bus outside Barstow Station
The Amtrak bus will take me to an Amtrak train in Bakersfield which I will ride up the Central Valley on the way back to San José. The bike goes in a baggage compartment under the bus, and the connecting train has a bike rack. - I see a dusting of snow as my Amtrak bus passes through the Tehachapi Mountains and its wind turbines; this was a good trip
I still wish I did my planned hike into the Newberry Mountains instead of ending my trip a day early due to the wind storm. But I'll be back out this way again some day soon. Until next time, à la prochaine, tạm biệt. - I spend the evening on the round bed in my cabin room at Barstow's Route 66 Motel, watching TV
I hardly ever watch TV, so it's fun to check in once in a while to see this thing that is so important and formative for so many people. - Tomorrow morning, the trip over, I see a bit of ice in the gutter as I ride Barstow's Main Street to the Amtrak Station
The thermometer drops down into the 20s again overnight. This has been a brisk camping trip, and it's time to buy a warmer sleeping bag for my next cold-weather trip. - I ride through Barstow's motel district on my way to the old-school Route 66 Motel where I'll stay again tonight
A few blocks of Route 66 in Barstow have bike lanes. Not quite wide enough, but I think they do help here (in some places, stingy bike lanes are actually worse than none at all). - I have a delicious supper at Rosita's on Barstow's Main Street
Mexican-American can be bland, but they seem to do it well here. Homemade corn tortillas, generous spicy salsa on the side, Mexican rice in which you can actually taste tomato, and generous machaca portion, nothing over-salted (soup is blah, however) - On my sink at the Route 66 Motel is a bar of "Rain Breeze" soap
OK, it has rained here in the dry Mojave Desert a bit lately, so "rain breeze" is slightly more appropriate than the "coastal breeze" soap that was in my room at the Ludlow Motel. - I remember passing the dead Barstow Mall at the beginning of this trip; I'm still intrigued by it
Before it died, this mall probably sucked traffic from the shops that lined nearby historic Route 66. Once bombastic, this mall now seems quaint and historic compared to the ugly Walmart with endless parking lot just down the road. - After my side trip into historic Daggett, I get back on Route 66 and head toward the I-40 freeway and tonight's motel in Barstow
I'll need to ride on the freeway shoulder for a couple of miles on the way back to Barstow. - While riding the I-40 freeway past the military base on the way back to Barstow, my GPS mysteriously crashes
My GPS won't restart until I'm almost past the military base. What's this? The many passing big rigs create strong side winds that, mixed in with the headwind, threaten to pull me out into freeway traffic. Yikes, time for serious focus while riding here! - Off the freeway after a couple of miles, I know I've landed in central Barstow when I pass a liquor store
Beer and wine, credit card, we accept food stamps, am I in inner-city Detroit or downtown Barstow? I see my first pedestrian since riding through Daggett. - Before leaving Daggett, I stop at a forlorn park bench to change the batteries in my GPS
There's no park here, although it looks like there should be one. Maybe there was a park here once upon a time. - I've seen several of these low-growing pink-budded plants during this trip
I don't know if they're weeds or native plants that like growing in disturbed areas. - The siding of the old wooden building is peeling away as the structure sags
This will be one heck of a restoration job! - Daggett's old town is an interesting place with many modest older houses
Some of the old houses are well-maintained, while others haven't survived the years so well, being perhaps a bit too modest for today's tastes. - A small grocery store is the dominant living feature on Daggett's main street
Next to Daggett's "Desert Market" are two older, abandoned commercial buildings. I stop here to buy a soda with caffeine out of habit, and some potato chips, but the soda is too cold in this weather (I drink it anyway). - These two old commercial buildings in Daggett have been fenced off, perhaps with the hope of preserving them
The old stone building at the right was apparently once a two-storey hotel. - Nice antique tin paneling above the stone wall on the façade of the Daggett Stone Hotel
A Google search on "Daggett Stone Hotel" provides many links with information about this historic building, built in the 1880s. - An old metal-clad garage-type building sits just down the street from the Daggett Stone Hotel
An old cottage, still inhabited, is the across-the-street neighbour. - At the rear of the old wooden building is an addition that looks like residential quarters
...probably for the folks who operated the business that once occupied the premises. - I return to the 10-ton bike and coast down the gravel road past a recently built fence
The fence is perhaps necessary to better define the route here. The land to the left of the fence looks graded, as if structures once stood there. - I make it back to the pavement of Hidden Springs Road and roll happily down the hill under the I-40 freeway toward old Route 66
After half a mile, I'll reach Route 66 (National Trails Hwy) and make a left toward Barstow. - The headwind is so strong as I ride Route 66 that I can barely maintain 7 miles per hour
I had an awesome tailwind while riding this road in the opposite direction a week ago, but today the cold wind is making my eyes water and giving me a serious workout! - I stop several times along this stretch of Route 66 to take short breaks from the headwind and look to the Newberry Mountains
I'm feeling a bit disappointed about canceling the final hike of my trip and ending it a day early. - As I arrive in the area of the town of Daggett, I pass an old sign for a defunct service station
... and another endless freight train passes by. - While passing a trailer park along Route 66 near Daggett, my eyes notice an unusual mobile home
This mobile home has been stripped down to its simple structure. - I reach the official "Welcome to Daggett" sign and decide to pull in for a quick tour of the small, historic town
I'm only about 10 miles away from Barstow, today's destination, so I can spare the time for a short tourist excursion. - The Mojave Desert is a dry place, but I see a lot of green sprouts, happier than me about last night's rain storm
All this rock and sand was wet and cold last night during the rain storm, yet no sign of the rain remains this morning, except for some extra humidity in the air. - While packing up, the tent wants to be a kite; I discover that one of my tent poles has been bent by the wind
Sometimes you can use the wind to your advantage when folding things, if you're careful, an interesting challenge. - OK, I'm leaving my Newberry Mountains campsite, but maybe I shouldn't wimp out like this
With the 10-ton bike packed up and ready to go, I take a last look up into the hills where I wanted to hike today. - I start riding down the Newberry Mountains wash road that I came up last night
It was dark when I came up this road, so now I get to better see where I am. - It's a winding, gravelly road; no wonder I had to walk the 10-ton bike up this hill last night in the dark
I think those footsteps in the gravel are mine from last night. No vehicle has driven over them yet. - On my way down this Newberry Mountains wash, I stop at a joining side wash that I saw last night on the way here
I remember wondering if this side wash might be a better route than the main one that I chose to follow. I'll park the 10-ton bike here and go for a short walk to see if anything of interest is up that way. - Hmm... If I had camped along this road in the Newberry Mountains foothills, I would have been more sheltered from the wind
However, had I camped here last night, I would have been really nervous during the rain storm about the possibility of a flash flood. - This little wash road in the Newberry Mountains foothills seems to end at the carcass of an old car used for target practice
A creosote bush, a car skeleton, and spent casings, what else could one ask for! - Wow, this must be the most shot-up thing I've ever come across!
I like how people have brought additional items here, such as the sheet of plywood and a window pane. - If there were ever a quintessential metaphor for the Amercian desert, this is it
Despite its stark beauty and opportunities for solitude, the American desert is often considered as a wasteland, a perfect place to build industrial junk that "has to go somewhere," such as garbage dumps and solar-power plants. - Apparently, this old car was once burned; the steering wheel looks quite melted and limp
The amazing thing is that there isn't much metal left here at all. In some spots, there are more bullet holes than metal. So where do all those shot-out metal fragments go? - This desert wind storm seems to be getting a kick out of playing with my flexible tent, just to see what shapes it can make
It seems that the wind is getting worse. Given how many times I woke up overnight, I think I would have noticed if the tent got as flattened as this and threatened to suffocate me. - I've been up for an hour and a half now, and spent much of that pacing around outside, hoping that the wind will die down a bit
Nice views from here past the freeway below and across the valley. I check the weather forecast: strong wind all today and tomorrow. I don't mind hiking in the wind, but how much of this can my new tent take? Right now, the wind level is bearable. - Coffee time, I hope: I try heating some water and shelter the burner a little by placing it behind the tent
The windbreak of the tent isn't enough, so the flame keeps going out. I've been suspecting weak pressure in this propane bottle, so I switch to my spare one, and the flame stays lit. Phew, warm beverages and meals are important in cold weather. - The problem now is that if the tent does fail and blow over, it will surely land on the flame of my propane burner
So I stand outside on guard, pacing, watching my cold water heat up like a bird watching its egg. I'm starting to wonder if my tent will still be here after my planned hike up into the Newberry Mountains in front of me. - Every time I think the wind is lessening, and that the day will progress nicely after all, another big gust pummels my tent
Strong Mojave Desert winds are common and I expect to eventually encounter and tolerate them whenever I come out here. Wind in Mojave National Preserve's Butcher Knife Canyon bent my former tent's poles in 2008, but the fabric stood up (thanks REI). - After more than 30 minutes, my lukewarm water makes a good cup of Starbuck's instant coffee, the only instant I find acceptable
I really want something hot to drink, so I can't wait for my water to heat up more. I immediately put another pot of water on the burner in anticipation of a second cup, another 30 minutes or more from now. - I stand in the wind on the Newberry Mountains foothills, thinking (wishing) that the wind is dropping to an acceptable level
A few minutes later, another strong wind huffs and puffs, seeing if it can blow my tent down. - I retreat to the tent and consider packing up and skipping today's Newberry Mountains hike as the tent walls blow down at me
I have my usual dry breakfast and a second cup of lukewarm coffee, thinking that maybe I just need to wait just a bit longer. I need to start my hike shortly if I'm going to do it. - I hate my decision: I'm going to pack up and cancel my hike into the Newberry Mountains, even though I'm camped at my trailhead
I don't have a good feeling about this wind storm, perhaps because of the cold temperature. I just don't feel confident that my tent will be here undamaged upon my return in eight hours if I do my planned hike up into the Newberry Mountains. - Last night's wind storm, which is still alive, blew a dusting of sand into my tent overnight, and kept me from sleeping well
Awake at 8h, I'm a bit chilled, since the overnight temperature dropped down to freezing and the rain storm added some humidity to the cold air. Still, I'm looking forward to today's hike into the Newberry Mountains. I think. - I step outside to take care of morning business and it's just as windy as I thought here in the Newberry Mountains foothills
At least the rain clouds are gone. It's a cold, but cheerful, sunny day, except for the wind. - Route 66 Newberry Mountains bicycle route
40.5 bicycle miles plus about 1200 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of Route 66 Newberry Mountains bicycle route
40.5 bicycle miles plus about 1200 feet of elevation gain. - In darkness, I head up the dirt road about a mile, set up camp, then an unexpected rain and wind storm descends upon me
This gravelly road has poor traction since it's in a wash. I walk the 10-ton bike most of the uphill mile, enjoying the strangeness of having solitude in the dark while overlooking a freeway lit up by thousands of oblivious headlights. The three hours of heavy rain and wind this evening are bracing, to say the least. I'm glad I've camped on the fan above the wash but not in it. No rain penetrates my new tent, phew, and I'm happy when the rain clouds move over toward Newberry Springs and Ludlow around midnight, allowing the waning full moon to shine again. However the steady winds don't let up and keep beating on the tent. Cold and wet radiate from the gravel in the near-freezing temperature outside. Aurally exhausted from the noise of the rocking tent, I finally attempt sleep at 1h, after sufficient sips of cognac. - Westward on Route 66 I go, crossing under the I-40 freeway and leaving Newberry Springs
I have a long freight train beside me as company for a short while on this empty stretch of Route 66. - Another Route 66 sunset as I ride west from Newberry Spring
The hills off to my left are the Newberry Mountains Wilderness Area, where I hope to hike tomorrow. - I ride by the California Agricultural Inspection Station, closed in 1967, which I passed on the first day of this trip
Gee, I'm getting a lot closer to Daggett today than planned. - Finally, I arrive at my exit from Route 66, Hidden Springs Road, and turn left
I'll follow this road under the freeway and up into the Newberry Mountains foothills. What will I find there? - I look for the dirt road to follow after pavement ends at the foot of the Newberry Mountains, a short distance from the freeway
There it is to my right, just as he told me. - Hmmm.... The city lights of Barstow are not so far away as I start my way up the road into the Newberry Mountains foothills
It didn't occur to me that I'd be so close to Barstow and "city life" tonight. The clear skies send no harbinger of the stormy weather system that will be here within a couple hours. - I ride through another dirt-bike dust cloud as I head west on the way out of Newberry Springs
I pass a couple of the bikers briefly riding down the road and we exchange waves. - The Newberry Mountains briefly come right up to old Route 66 along here
The wash across the road from me looks like an interesting possible hiking route for tomorrow. I could try camping somewhere nearby, but I'm curious about the area further west of here suggested by the guy I met at Badgad Café. - Bagdad Café: business cards, welcome signs (bienvenue) and personal messages everywhere, le tout en français
The French text completely surrounding me is an odd juxtaposition to the fact that nobody here right now speaks French except me (this is the off-season in terms of French tourists). - Bagdad Café: a French Harley shirt, mounted high on a wall
A local motorcyclist arrives as I leave Bagdad Café; we chat a bit. Understanding my quest for some quiet, he gives directions to an area of the adjacent Newberry Mountains that should be less popular for dirt bikes. Many thanks! - I figure I might as well stop in at the famous Bagdad Café since I'm passing by
This place got its reputation from being in a movie called "Bagdad Café," which was set to take place in the no-longer-existing town of Bagdad, further down old Route 66. - I take a quick glance at the old Henning Motel next door to the Bagdad Café as I get back on the road
The great thing is that the strong headwind forecast for today hasn't materialized, so it has been great riding so far. - Bagdad Café: I'm hungry (again), so I order a plate of scrambled eggs and bacon
I had eggs for breakfast this morning as well, so I really should order something different. However, the idea of a big meat meal does appeal to me right now (and they don't offer much else). The home-fried potatoes here turn out to be good. - Bagdad Café: I begin to notice that most of the business cards and other paraphenalia on the walls are from France
I knew that the Bagdad Café movie had a following in France, but I didn't realize it was so big that most of the visitors here would be French tourists and other foreigners (while Americans don't seem to know about it). - First, I think I'll ride the couple of remaining miles into Newberry Springs and refill my water supply
I see another dust trail crossing Route 66 not too far ahead. If you're a dirt biker, this would be a great environment to have right outside your front door... - Here's another old business on Newberry Springs' Route 66 that didn't make it: "Rocks 'n' Stuff"
Unlike most of the defunct buildings one sees around here, these ones are being demolished. - Newberry Springs: dirt-bikers paradise!
For more fun, there's also a big OHV area to play in on the other side of the Rodman Mountains Wilderness Area. - This old property on Route 66 in Newberry Springs is nicely maintained
It's good to see a few people trying to preserve a piece of the past here. Even the old public toilets next door are still standing. - Old public toilets on Route 66, Newberry Springs
You can still read the old paint which reads, "Customers only." This looks like it may have once been part of a small motel complex. - I stop to take a look at Gasco Road, which cuts across the salt pan on its way up to the Rodman Mountains Wilderness Area
I might use this road shortly once I'm ready to go looking for a campsite. - Old Route 66 makes a couple of 90-degree turns in order to cross the I-40 freeway
There's that "tube of civilization" again, beneath me, of people driving through the desert without experiencing it. That black hill in the distance is part of the Pisgah lava formation, and I'll be passing by it shortly. - As old Route 66 crosses the tracks just after an I-40 overpass, I'm briefly facing Pisgah Crater
I consider an unplanned side trip over to Pisgah Crater, but remind myself that I want to camp further on in the Newberry Springs area today, perhaps in the Rodman Mountains. - Not long after I cross the tracks, another one of those endless freight trains passes by
...presumably headed to Los Angeles. - I'm on that rough part of old Route 66 again between Newberry Springs and Pisgah siding
Since this is no longer the main road through the area (the adjacent I-40 freeway is now), it's not well-maintained. Only a few cars have passed me since I left Ludlow a couple of hours ago. Bump, bump, bump. - I cross the powerline road that cuts through the Cady Mountains just a few miles north of my campsite at Broadwell Dry Lake
I could follow it from here up into the Rodman Mountains, where I'm thinking of camping tonight. However, knowing how fickle the powerline roads can be, I may use a more direct and ridable route a bit further on from Newberry Springs. - Now that I'm getting closer to the town of Newberry Springs, I'm starting to see a few more cars on this part of old Route 66
I have to start paying more attention now to my position as I ride down the road. - I begin the slight downhill on old Route 66 into the town of Newberry Springs, with the Newberry Mountains in the background
I forgot there would be a brief downhill here. Nice! The I-40 freeway is clearly visible from here off to my right. - Hector Road here provides an opportunity for cars to get off old Route 66 here and get back on the freeway
Along this stretch, I've been busy staring at the low pointy and rolling hills on the far side of the freeway over there, and how light plays on them as clouds roll by. - This abandoned property at the east end of Newberry Springs has a commanding view of the Rodman Mountains in the background
Despite the dirt-bike dust clouds in the foreground, the background mountains are an official Wilderness area with many potential hiking corridors. I am thinking of camping back there tonight. - East of Newberry Springs, the freeway is really close to old Route 66
From here, it looks like big rigs are driving across the lava field. - This lava outcrop along old Route 66 glistens in front of its Rodman Mountains Wilderness Area background
Being solid black, this must get really hot when it bakes in the summer sun. - Perhaps the biggest no-trespassing sign I've seen on this trip, just east of Newberry Springs
An interesting use for a junked trailer... - Now that I'm closer to town (Newberry Springs), I'm starting to pass more properties that are occupied
So many houses in the desert areas are either trailers or prefabricated. - I see another motor-created dust cloud traversing the desert in front of the Rodman Mountains Wilderness Area
It's the day after the Thanksgiving holiday, and people are out doing those things they don't have a chance to do every day. Hmmm... this might make for non-peaceful camping up there. - After almost six miles, I notice a little sign for "Sleeping Beauty Road"
I didn't see this sign when I passed by here almost a week ago because it was already dark then. - I stop at Sleeping Beauty Road for a very short break; it occurs to me that I could ride up this road and do a nice hike
If it were late in the day, I would stop and camp around here. But with strong headwinds forecast for my bicycle ride back to the Amtrak bus stop in Barstow, I should keep going, just in case. - I'm out of my motel room by 10h30 and start my way up the first 8-mile segment of Route 66 toward Barstow from Ludlow
The "old road" parallels the speedy freeway here, just a few feet away at my left. A strong headwind is forecast, but I'm not getting one yet (yee haw!). Still, it's slow-going since I'll rise about 600 feet on this stretch. - The two antique vehicles are protected from sun and rain under the old gas-station canopy
Flat tires make it more difficult for passing freeway thugs to steal the vehicles. - Interesting switches on the dashboard panel of the old van
Those little plastic labels look very 1970s. - Faux wood paneling in the back of the old van, sagging a little
This looks like a kitschy update to the van during a later period of its life. Where's the fake brick that should accompany it? - Ludlow Motel, in the heart of the Mojave Desert, has soap in the bathrooms called "Coastal Breezes"
There's always lots of wind in the desert, but none of it is coastal. - Between the Ludlow Café and the Ludlow Motel rests a former gas station, decorated with a couple of old vehicles
I like the old fire truck with built-in water tank. The other vehicle is an old van. - Please, have a seat
I wonder why they once painted over the old window. The long-lost padding from this seat probably made it into birds' nests years ago. - Loadmaster
Classic period design with a deco moderne touch. - I slept so well last night here at the Ludlow Motel: the breakfast menu in my room invites me over to the café for FLUFFY
I don't order the FLUFFY, but instead order an omelet. It's good, but it's really just an excuse to have another one of Ludlow Café's tasty homemade biscuits. - I decide to spend another night at the Ludlow Motel to catch up on some needed sleep and avoid the cold
Temperatures dropping down into the 20s again tonight! I'm too late to eat at the Ludlow Café, so I visit the other place in town, Dairy Queen, for another hamburger. OK, I'm tired of hamburgers now; I usually rarely eat them. - The sun has gone down for the last mile or so of the trudge up to Ludlow
As I approach the top of the dirt road, a set of headlights creeps up on me at the speed of sunset, the only light in the dark Broadwell Dry Lake valley behind me. It's a slow race and I make it to the pavement near the freeway just before it does. - What could this old sign be out here in the middle of nowhere by Broadwell Dry Lake?
Like most signs in the desert, this one has been shot at many times. - Ha! This old sign announces a former proposal (from the 1990s) to place a toxic-waste site here at Broadwell Dry Lake
There's not a better desert sign to shoot up than this one. Just because nobody lives here (isn't that much of the beauty and value of this place?) isn't a reason to fill it with garbage! - For further information on the review process for the proposed hazardous-waste site at Broadwell Dry Lake...
For some lucky reason, the proposed hazardous-waste site at Broadwell Dry Lake didn't happen; maybe they were unable to frame it as another "green" project. - Relieved that I don't have to pass a toxic-waste dump here, I get back on the 10-ton bike and pedal onward toward Ludlow
Broadwell Dry Lake survives. - Oh, another stray balloon to collect for disposal!
First one today. - These last few miles up the gravelly slight incline toward Ludlow are slow, but I'm enjoying it
After being out here for close to a week, I'm getting a bit stronger, and this road feels easier than it did a few days ago. Still, I have to hike the bike occasionally due to poor traction. - I see some pipes sticking out of the surface of nearby Broadwell Dry Lake, but I don't stop to investigate
I'm too busy enjoying the scenery and the sunset on the Bristol Mountains. - Back down on "the main road," I look north on Crucero Road near Broadwell Dry Lake
There's more worth exploring further up that road. I didn't expect this road to be passable by bicycle, so I didn't plan on attempting to travel any further up this road. Maybe next time. - I pull over to allow a car to pass by, the first one I've encountered down here by Broadwell Dry Lake
I've seen many recent vehicle tracks, and I could see a car on this road while hiking on the other side of Broadwell Dry Lake yesterday, but this is the first one I've come close to since leaving Ludlow two days ago. - I watch the sun go down on the Bristol Mountains while I ride alongside Broadwell Dry Lake
I've hiked over there twice this week. Definitely worth another visit; I hate to be saying "good-bye." - This stretch of Crucero Road looks like it gets mighty muddy during rainy times
For now though, it's a nice ride for me (it has good traction). The 10-ton bike is willing to excuse the bumps! - It's almost 16h and I'm just now starting today's bicycle ride out of Broadwell Dry Lake?
Maybe I should have gotten up eight hours earlier? But no, sleeping all morning in the warm tent this morning was sooo nice. I don't think I woke up once. - We're ready to ride the half mile down from the Old Dominion Mine area to Crucero Road
It still bugs me that I couldn't find this road two nights ago, even though I was sometimes on it! - I ride down the faint road from the Old Dominion Mine site at sunset
I'll turn right as soon as I reach Crucero Road, just ahead. - I decide that it might be best to turn back since there were no gunshot sounds until I reached this area
Yeah, nice fire ring.