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- I now join an old dead-end road from Rex Mine, leaving the cave up on the hill behind me
This old road is shown on my topo maps and probably ends at the "rooster-comb" a quarter-mile ahead. That train is still trudging up the Cima Grade down below under the defining curve of Cima Dome on the horizon. - I notice what looks like an old metal cistern buried in the sands of Willow Wash
Has the cistern sunk in the sand over the years or has the sand level of Willow Wash risen to cover it? - I notice some tiny purple flowers growing in the gravel on the shoulder of Nevada 164
Cool! This looks like Purple Mat (Nama demissum). - I notice some fresh footprints in the wash while I'm out walking around on my morning toilet run
There were some mice playing with the corner of my tent last night, but these aren't mice-prints. - I notice several hawks and ravens flying around as I continue hiking up the wash toward Hyten Spring
They don't see many people out here! - I notice several "Chinch weeds," if that's what they are, as I walk across the alluvial fan
According to some photos I've found on the web, this might be Pectis papposa. I saw some of these while hiking in the Sleeping Beauty area also, a few days back. - I notice another small, clean pool of water in the rock just below
This is probably a big stream during the winter when this area receives runoff from melting snow in the New York Mountains above. - I notice a Wilderness marker and a closed road
Maybe that's an abandoned mine or some other point of interest up at the end of the closed road, so I stash my bike in a gulley and go for a short walk to find out. (Bicycles are prohibited in Wilderness areas.) - I notice a very weathered old fence post with a metal claim marker as I approach Broadwell Dry Lake
"JHJ claims 5 x 13," is inscribed in the metal, whatever that means. - I notice a thorny pencil cholla cactus bush near my tent
I'm glad I didn't brush against this in the dark last night, or pick up any of its children on my bicycle tires! - I notice a small water tank on the roadside and it's full of fresh, clean water
Nice to know, in case I should ever need it! - I notice a scattering of scat just behind me
Even though I don't see many signs of humans up here, someone obviously comes here often. - I notice a nice little "pineapple cactus" on my cross-country trek over the low hills
It would be easy to carelessly walk on this pile of thorns if it didn't have a protruding flower. - I notice a natural arch in the Castle Peaks pinnacles as I start my way down the hill
The arch looks big enough that I might be able to climb up there and crawl through it, but I'm fixated on my downhill hike right now. - I notice a low-flying bird overhead that turns out to be an owl when it lands in the nearby brush
I first think it's a small hawk, until I notice its flat face peering at me. He watches me for a few moments, then flies away. I wonder if he was trying to distract me from something, like a nearby nest. - I notice a little cave up on the hillside on the way out of the side wash
If I weren't running out of time so quickly, I'd climb up the hill and examine this more closely. - I notice a few moist spots here and there as I climb over the rocks in what I've decided to call Seep Canyon
The moist spots aren't big enough to be considered as springs, so it's no surprise that they're not indicated on my maps. - I notice a big patch of those pink dry buckwheats that I see here and there in the Mojave Desert, near the top of Rings Trail
And there's Table Mountain over in the distance; maybe I'll hike over that way tomorrow. - I notice a berm of sorts along part of the 17-Mile Point Road, so I climb up it to shoot a photo of the area
This berm doesn't seem natural... - I nervously hike cross-country by flashlight toward the lights of Baker, in search of the road back to my tent
If I decide that I'm completely lost, I can walk westward a couple of miles to Kelbaker Road if needed to get my bearings. I come across a clearing that looks like it might be Indian Springs Road, but isn't. - Hiking toward the distant lights of Baker is the only thing that makes sense right now. I cross numerous little drainage dips and hope that I haven't somehow crossed Indian Springs Road without realizing it. Tonight's full moon hasn't risen yet, so I can't see the surrounding hills that I'd probably recognize. A slight clearing looks like it might be Indian Springs Road. I follow it briefly, eastward, but there are no tire tracks, so it can't be my road. I notice a long-abandoned small trailer here; the access road seems to have grown in and no longer exist. This landmark confuses me. I didn't see this trailer while riding up Indian Springs Road yesterday. I must still be far from my road, or completely off track somehow. In the worst case, if I decide I'm completely lost, I can walk westward a couple of miles to Kelbaker Road to re-orient myself. - I need to climb up over that ridge to my right to get back to the Barnett Mine area
The rock climbing is fun, but it's slow and I'm not covering much distance at all. I'm having even more camera problems now, so I'm trying out my cell phone to take a few photos. - I near the bottom of Seep Canyon and the canyon widens a bit
Cedar Canyon Road should be not far ahead down below in front of the hills ahead. - I must be near Pine Spring; here's an old rusty tobacco can lid
Copenhagen satisfies! - I mount the bike and ride the 1/4-mile shortcut at the end of Kelso Dunes Road to the nearby power-line road
I'm headed directly toward the Bristol Mountains (or is it the Granite Mountains? I'm not sure where one begins and the other ends). This only takes a few minutes. - I might be able to climb this Eagle Rocks pinnacle from the right side
Where to go next... - I manage to photograph this zebra-tailed lizard near Indian Spring before he scurries away
I've seen dozens of lizards today... - I make my last two cups of strong coffee of the trip and enjoy the views while I procrastinate the task of breaking camp
I lazily consume beef jerky, granola, tamari almonds, dried fruit, and vitamin-C drink for breakfast again. The nearby power lines are buzzing loudly again this morning. - I make my final turn for the day onto a road that winds down and around a few low hills en-route to Pine Spring
Happy to have a brief downhill! I'm only a couple of miles away from Pine Spring now. My arms are getting tired from steering with a full 10-litre water bag on my front rack. - I make it to the summit of "Hill 1161" (as labelled on my map) at 3700 feet and look to the north toward Cima Dome
I spend some time roaming on the summit, enjoying the views up above it all. My map indicates an old mine shaft up here, but I haven't seen it yet. - I make it back to the pavement of Hidden Springs Road and roll happily down the hill under the I-40 freeway toward old Route 66
After half a mile, I'll reach Route 66 (National Trails Hwy) and make a left toward Barstow. - I make it back to the Barnett Mine area at sunset, pick up the bicycle, and ride the 10 miles back to camp in dusk and dark
Relieved that I finished climbing the rock pile before dark, the ride back to Mid Hills, mostly in the dark, is leisurely. I pass no other vehicles, but I do see a campfire near Holliman Well as my headlight quietly cuts through the dark. Supper is Mountain House Rice with Sweet and Sour Pork; good again. It's cold again tonight, so I wear my sweater, long underwear, double socks and a bandana to keep warm. After the heat of the first few days of the trip, it almost feels good to be cold! - I make it back to my tent overlooking Ivanpah Valley just before dusk
The 10-ton bike with its flat front tire rests peacefully along the road. - I make it back to Bluejay Mine, retrieve the bike, and start riding the 1.5 miles down to Wild Horse Canyon Road
I'll drop 300 feet on the way to Wild Horse Canyon Road, which is just enough downhill grade to make a rough road like this rideable on a mountain bike. - I make it almost to the top of the lava and am taking in the excellent views across the Indian Springs area
I can't climb the last eight feet or so to get completely on top because of the lava's sharp vertical edges. - I can't climb the last eight feet or so to get completely on top because of the lava's sharp vertical edges. If I felt like doing so, I could probably persevere and keep walking along the base of the lava and eventually find a spot where I could climb up to the top. - I make another stop in the lava-flow area, this time at Black Tank Wash
I'm intrigued by this area, but I'm not carrying enough water to dry camp in a place like this tonight. - I make a stop at one of the Wee Thump Wilderness signs along Nevada 164
I take a water-and-energy-bar break here and enjoy the scenery. Wee Thump Wilderness was designated in 2002. - I make a small pot of tea, wondering if it will be enough to jumpstart my day; I would prefer some strong coffee, but have none
I still can't believe that the Starbuck's in Baker has closed after being open for only a year or two. I do like tea, but I like espresso more. - I make a quick stop at the Kelso Dunes outhouse at the base of the official hiking "trail" up the dunes
In bright sunlight, you immediately know the Kelso Dunes here is one big sand pile, but in this light it's not so apparent. - I make a quick stop along Ivanpah Road to climb up onto an old railway grade that is marked as a road on some maps
It's hard to tell this is a an old railway grade extending into the distance because it's so grown in. - I make a mistake and turn down a well-travelled road that I think at first is Cima Road
After a quarter-mile, I check my maps and GPS and realize that the road is not indicated and I'm not on Cima Road. I turn back to rejoin Death Valley Mine Road and discover the real Cima Road a short distance further. - I make a last-minute decision to leave Mail Spring and ride to Mid Hills campground today (I was going to stay here another day)
I pack up and leave around 13h15. A breeze this morning kept the tent a bit cooler this morning, so I managed to sleep in until 9h30. Really needed the sleep, but it's still hot enough that I can't eat much. - I made it down the little rock wall easily, but the short, blind descent was just enough to set off my vertigo
I hate vertigo and the shaky feeling that it needlessly produces. That rock wall was not high at all! - I luxuriate briefly in the shade of a big pinon pine at a campsite in Keystone Canyon where I've camped before
I just took a short break under a juniper 15 minutes ago, but in today's hot weather, I'm ready for another break, and many more. The shade here is better than my last stop. It's odd to be at this spot without my tent and bike this time. - I love the quirky old round beds at the Route 66 Motel in Barstow
I just got back from a celebratory meal of Mexican-American food at Rosita's just up the street. For the Americanized style of Mex food that they cook, most of it is quite tasty and filling. I think I'll be ready soon for a good night's sleep, and an Amtrak bus/train ride back to San José tomorrow. - I look westward up the gorge toward Malpais Spring and get excited about tomorrow's hike up into that area
The Malpais Spring area has been on my list of places to visit in Mojave National Preserve for a few years now, so I'm happy that I've finally made it here. - I look up to Castle Peaks again before I head down the wash toward Taylor Spring
I do wish I had enough daylight left to hike up there also; perhaps tomorrow? - I look up through another burned-tree canopy toward rock towers at Eagle Rocks
These scorched trunks remind me of the sycamores that grow in wet areas outside of San José, and which are also used as street trees in town. - I look over to Purdy Peak, the highest point in the Pinto Mountain formation
I probably won't climb Purdy Peak, but I will mosey on over in that direction shortly as I explore more of the mesa here. - I look north toward Old Dad Mountain, the power-line road and my campsite at the bottom of Jackass Canyon
It's such a gloomy day that it looks and feels like we could have rain. I hope not, even though I've brought rain gear with me, just in case. - I look into the brush at which the wilderness camera points and discover a dribble of water on the ground
Live Oak Spring is almost dry right now, but not quite. The tiny quantity of available water is that purplish reflection on the ground beneath the brush. - I look for the dirt road to follow after pavement ends at the foot of the Newberry Mountains, a short distance from the freeway
There it is to my right, just as he told me. - I look down at the remains of a structure up at the mine site
I'm also looking for my tent down there in the low area a half-mile from here, but don't see it. - I look down across the Orestimba Wilderness through some burned chamise skeletons from last year's brush fire
In a couple of hours, I'll be at Paradise Lake, which is down below, more or less in front of the distant hills. It's definitely warmer up on this ridge, as I expected, and I'm sweating quite a bit. - I look behind me to check my progress as I slowly ride up the Bristol Mountains powerline road into the foothills
I'm just coming up out of a dip in the road. - I look behind me at the lower part of the Sleeping Beauty canyon I've just descended
Great colors here, the contrasts perhaps increased a little by my Canon point-and-shoot pocket camera. - I look behind me as I push the 10-ton bike through the sand trap on the Bristol Mountains powerline road
Walking through this two days ago, I felt like I had reached a potentially major obstacle, not knowing how long the sand would last. Now that I know it's only a short distance, it's just like another bump on the road. - I look behind me as I climb up the lower part of Wild Horse Canyon Road
I have to walk the bike up this stretch because there's too much sand for me to get traction (see my tire tracks?) However, not too far ahead, I'll be back on well-packed sand and gravel. - I look back up the dry creek bed and at the hills behind collecting the sunset
I wish I had more time to explore and know that I'll be back here some day during a future trip. - I look back regularly while climbing Black Canyon Road to take in the purple haze in the warmer areas south of Mojave Preserve
My original plan for this trip included visiting some of those warmer areas down there, but it got postponed by a month, and then hotter weather set in. In late May, I'm happier up here in the highlands! - I look back down behind me again to Death Valley
The raindrops have ceased! More importantly, my sore knee gets another short break. - I look back at the mouth of the south fork of Borrego Canyon across a field of dry grey-pink buckwheat twigs
And there's the flat Wild Horse Mesa up there. - I look back at another pile of rock that I just climbed down in Seep Canyon
I see another moist spot in a shady crevasse in the rocks. - I look at these rocky hills and think it would be fun to climb one of them during the brief time I'm here
My itinerary allowed for a possible extra day here to explore this area, but I have to be back at work in a few days. - I look at sap on the bark of the pinon pine at my former Keystone Canyon campsite while drinking water and eating almonds
Some of the limbs of this tree have obviously been cut for firewood by campers over the years, but fortunately this tree has survived. - I look around and notice a few bones scattered nearby
I keep scanning the area to see if there's anything else of interest nearby that I haven't seen yet. - I look ahead and scope out my route along this part of the Providence Mountains ridge
I'll head upward along the spine to my left to attain the ridge, then hike to the right (east) along the ridge, overlapping my route into this area a while ago. - I look across the train tracks from Brant Road toward the Sacaton Spring area
Sacaton Spring is another area that I haven't gotten around to visiting yet. In the distant New York Mountains hills is the area of Butcher Mine Canyon that I visited in 2008. - I look across the tracks and beyond the handful of houses that are Kelso toward Cornfield Spring, my destination
Cornfield Spring is somewhere at the base of the Providence Mountains over there. I'm still hot and tired, and it's certainly warmer down here in the valley than it was up on the Kelbaker Road summit. I've been drinking more water and I ate another Clif bar since arriving at Kelso Depot, so I'm as ready as I can be to take on the final few miles of today's ride. - I look across the sand trap here and ponder the abandoned buildings at Death Valley Mine
I wish I had the time to explore this area; perhaps I should just call it a day and pull over somewhere nearby and set up camp. - I look across a patch of yellow desert senna flowers at the Mid Hills area in the distance, my destination today
I recognize many landmarks in the Mid Hills, such as Eagle Rocks, the sharp points in the distant centre of this photo. The Mid Hills campground, where I'll camp during the next few nights, sits just behind that. - I lock the bike to the fence at the Kelso Dunes trailhead
I'm glad there's something to lock my bike to. Sometimes in the desert, there's nothing, and the best bet is to lay the bike on the ground behind a few creosote bushes where it will likely go unnoticed (just don't forget where you stashed it!) - I lock my bike to a wilderness sign along Chloride Cliff Road and go for a short walk toward the old Keane Spring
Do I really need to lock my bike? I don't see any green spots that might indicate the presence of a spring anywhere. I had read that Keane Spring is probably dry, so I'm not surprised. After my walk in the Keane Spring area, I return to the bike (not a 10-ton bike today!) at the wilderness sign, and coast back down to my camp site at the foot of Monarch Canyon Road. The howling wind at the camp site during the evening causes my tent walls to suck in and out, forever testing its strength. At least it's doesn't rain again! There's a crescent moon in the sky tonight, just big enough to light up the canyon a little under the clear, dark sky. Under the flashlight lamp in the tent, I get out my maps and study them, wondering if I should stay camped out here a third night, and do a day ride tomorrow to Beatty, Nevada. The wind doesn't die down like it did last night. As midnight approaches, I decide to stop waiting for some relief and quiet, and somehow manage to fall asleep anyway, probably because I'm so exhausted! - I locate the stream that emanates from Cottonwood Spring and start following it upstream
I'm not seeing water yet, but there is enough residual moisture for one to know that water was flowing here recently. - I locate The Lost Road by the dry cattle pond and start riding it
The Lost Road here hasn't been used in a very long time, so it's quite grown in. However, I do manage to ride some of it. A voyage of discovery! - I locate a berm of earth, part of the old Ivanpah railway grade and the "invisible" road I wanted to ride earlier
Well, my invisible road is hard to find and rarely used from this end too. I'm still curious about it and might return another day when I have more time to explore. - I linger for a few minutes on the rooster comb to take in the view over to Rex Mine, Kelso Dunes and far beyond
The headframe and ore bin of Rex Mine are visible from here as dark blocks on the hill in the middleground. - I like walking through some easy-to-miss chia sages in Upper Black Diamond Spring Valley
These produce a classic musty sage aroma when you brush up against them. - I like this stretch of Borrego Canyon because there isn't as much vegetation to avoid, due to the rocky floor
Just in front of me is a small natural water tank, dry right now. - I like this slightly downhill part of Old Kelso Road that heads toward the Old Dad Mountain block
... because it's slightly downhill and because it's a well-packed surface for riding. This road is otherwise mostly a slight uphill. - I like this rock outcrop in Borrego Canyon because it briefly gives me a smooth surface to walk across, for a change
- I like this old range fence off Cedar Canyon Road in front of Pinto Mountain
Fences aren't built of rough-hewn wood like this any more. - I like this canyon so far: a few more boulders to climb over ahead
I'm still not seeing any human footprints anywhere here. - I like these little rollers on the Mojave Road
...even though they're a bit sandy in the low spots, occasionally forcing me to stop. - I like the patterns that my sleeping pad has imprinted on the sand through the floor of my tent
With all the sand that blows around down here at Devil's Playground, traces of my campsite should disappear fairly soon. - I like the occasional rocky stretches on the old Mojave Road because they add traction to the sandy road
Nice views across the valley to the Old Dad Mountain area as I ski my way down the hill. Mountain bikes (with wide tires) are perfect for this. - I like the exposed rock areas in Bull Canyon that allow me to get out of the brush for a few minutes
This is "avoidance hiking" at its finest: I'm always walking around some rock or shrub! - I like riding this straight stretch of Hart Mine Road and gaining a tiny bit of speed
I manage to reach 10 mph along here, which is pretty fast for today! Much of this road is just rough enough that I've had to take it slowly, even on the non-uphill stretches. - I like being up on my hill here, but there's more canyon down there for me to hike up
However, I think I stay up on the rolling hillside here for a little longer, in case there's another impasse waiting for me down in the canyon. - I lift up the hood to take a peek inside
A few plants are living inside the engine cavity, including a number of barrel-cactus sprouts. It would be interesting to come back in a couple of years to see if the sprouts continue to grow or if they die off in their confined living space. - I leisurely filter 3 1.5-litre bottles of that greenish water from the Indian Spring tub and it tastes pretty good
The water tastes better than the tap water I brought with me from the motel in Searchlight. In fact, it's the best water I've had so far on this trip. My MSR water filter is acting a bit erratic and I hope it's not about to fail. - I leave Wildcat Spring and start hiking toward my next stop, Coyote Spring, about 1/2 mile beyond
Note the faded track here of an old road. This is not the same Mojave National Preserve Coyote Springs that I visited during my 2008 Mojave National Preserve trip. That one is situated in the lower Granite Mountains, south of Kelso Depot. - I leave Wild Horse Canyon Road and head down Gold Valley Road
This is a favorite ride of mine, taken in the north-south direction. - I leave Thomas Place and walk straight ahead up the road toward Live Oak Spring, crossing Death Valley Mine Road on the way
Four-way intersections on your Mojave Desert maps often look like this in person: no stop signs here. - I leave the tent on today's Lecyr Spring and Keystone Spring hike before 10h30
I can't stay in the tent any longer because it has become too hot inside. I had a couple of cups of "cold" coffee and a cup of vitamin C drink, plus some granola and almonds. But I can't eat much due to the heat. - I leave the road and cross the Wilderness boundary to begin walking toward flat-topped Table Mountain
I'm walking slowly, to warm up, though I'm warm enough from the hot sun already. I'm headed toward that slot between the Twin Buttes and flat-topped Table Mountain. - I leave the road and begin hiking cross-country to the Butcher Knife Canyon area, about a mile away
I dodge tough shrubs and the occasional cholla cactus as I make my way over to Butcher Knife Canyon. The straight-line hike is barely a mile, but cross-country hiking requires longer distances as one walks around shrubs, and never in a straight line. - I leave the primitive road and start walking cross-country toward Black Palisades
I pass my first barrel cactus of the day; these don't grow in lower valley elevations such as Nipton. - I leave the old road and hike down in the wash for about 3/4 mile before catching up with the road back up to Pachalka Spring
More great views across Shadow Valley. - I leave the Coyote Springs stream and climb up one of the low rocky hills along the old road on the way back to my bike
Yellow pre-sunset light bathes the Providence Mountains while the Coyote Springs area here sits in a deep shadow. - I leave the Bert Smith Rock House and coast down the hill into Watson Wash
Down in Watson Wash, I'll pick up New York Mountains Road, that squiggle down there. - I leave Pacheco Camp around 12h30 and within 30 minutes I'm on the ridge above riding through a semi-shady stand of burned pines
Upon leaving Pacheco Camp, the thermometer reads 92 degrees in the shade. At first, I'm fooled into believing that I have most of my energy back. After a few minutes of climbing up out of Pacheco Creek, I realize I'm still a bit pooped, so I've been walking up some of the hill up Coit Road. This part of Coit Road rises about 700 feet over two miles. - I leave Nipton and start the 12-mile crawl Nipton Road hill toward the Nevada border and Crescent Peak beyond
It's still a bit cold this morning, but the sunshine feels good and the wind has died down. Fortunately, it appears to have cleared up a bit in the mountains too, where I'm going today. Looks like great bicycling weather, at least during the daylight hours! I have coffee at the Nipton store and end up chatting with the owner there. I take him up on his suggestion that I head to the New York Mountains via Nevada Highway 164 and Walking Box Ranch Road, instead of via Ivanpah Road as I had first planned. After a nice hot "outdoor" shower at Nipton and some breakfast, I'm on my way up the hill. - I leave my Pinto Valley campsite at 5650 feet elevation and start coasting down Howe Spring Road around 9h
It doesn't look downhill, but I'll drop almost 400 feet during the first two miles. Best of all, that strong, nasty wind is now my friend, since I have it behind me. I especially like this because I didn't get much sleep last night. - I leave Mahoney Meadows Road and take the left trail fork toward China Hole
The right fork of the trail passes Lost Spring, which I haven't visited yet... I should plan a stop there on a future trip. - I leave Kelso Depot and begin the trudge up Kelbaker Road toward Coyote Springs
This is another one of those route segments which I've ridden several times. This climb of 900 feet over 8.5 miles is not very steep and always goes well for me, yet it always ends up being a tad more demanding than I think it should be. This may be because I've usually climbed this hill late in the afternoon, in the heat of the day, with the sun on my back, and today is no exception. Coyote Springs, today's goal, sits at the base of the mountains at the centre-right. - I leave Juniper Spring wash below, and start climbing up a hill toward the Vanderbilt Peak area
I can almost, but not quite, see down into Ivanpah Valley from here. - I leave Indian Spring and start my way cross-country up to a saddle between two sets of pinnacles in the Castle Peaks
I stared at these pinnacles a lot while hiking in this area last year, but didn't do the climb up to the saddle. - I leave Cedar Canyon Road and ride up the 3/4-mile-long shortcut road to Black Canyon Road
I came down this shortcut road earlier today, but I've had to look closely for it on the way back to Mid Hills campground, as I had never noticed this road during my previous rides on Cedar Canyon Road. - I leave camp before 10h and ride past the Woods Mountains, at first on the way to Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Centre to get water
After the usual coffee, almonds, granola, dried fruit and vitamin C drink for breakfast, I pack up the mountain bike for a day ride without all my gear that will turn out to be longer than expected. - I leave Barstow eastbound on a frontage road and then ride the I-40 freeway for 2.5 miles to get past the naval base there
I'm riding into a strong headwind today, the opposite of the most typical wind pattern in this area. I'm often riding at under 10 miles per hour, though I do reach briefly 15 on a slightly downhill stretch of the freeway. - I know I'm very close now to the road toward Monarch Canyon (Chloride Cliff Road)
I've read that the little dirt road that I'm looking for has no sign (except for a little jeep sign), so I know what to watch for. - I know I'm getting close to the junction of Ivanpah Road and Cedar Canyon Road when I see power lines along the road
There are a number of residences in this area, where some families have lived for a century or more. - I know I'm getting close to Ivanpah Road when I can zoom in for a close-up of a nearby radio facility
..at least that's what it's called on my maps. - I know I'm getting close to home when I ride past the right-turn sign on Wild Horse Canyon Road
The Eagle Rocks turrets near Mid Hills campground are getting closer. - I know I'm at Live Oak Spring when I come across a wilderness camera
I still don't see any water, however, nor even any mud. - I knew I'd find a happy-birthday balloon sooner or later out here in the wilderness...
I find these in the most remote places... - I keep walking up the unnamed canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range
... and I keep looking at the high points of the mountains just south of me. - I keep walking up the Cady Mountain canyon, looking for possible easy routes up into the rocky hills
I saved several possible upward routes on my GPS so I wouldn't miss them while hiking past. - I keep seeing these diminutive buckwheat-like plants
Their reddish-pink blossoms are small enough that that they can be passed unnoticed, yet they look quite bright if you actually take the time to look directly at them. - Their reddish-pink blossoms are small enough that that they can be passed unnoticed, yet they look quite bright if you actually take the time to look directly at them. - I keep riding along the edge of the Wee Thump Wilderness after passing another guzzler (same model as the last one I saw)
The sky has cleared up, and most of the dark clouds have departed, but it's still a very windy day. - I keep pedalling slowly up Kelbaker Road, Mojave National Preserve
I've already passed the cinder cones, which are visible behind me. A couple of motorcyclists have passed me and waved, and an oncoming SUV honked and waved as it passed. - I keep looking back behind me at the saddle that leads down to Cliff Canyon Spring
Maybe vertigo-man here should just enjoy the views and not try hiking down those slopes. The haze out there blowing in from Los Angeles is quite remarkable. - I keep looking back at the ominous clouds behind me as I ride down Howe Spring Road
I managed to miss the rain showers that passed through this area during day 4 of this trip, and I'm hoping I'll be as lucky today, should some rain materialize. - I keep looking back at the murky clouds over upper Ivanpah Valley toward Cima and the New York Mountains
Looks like virga, but not rain, over there. I guess I'm not going to get rained on today after all. - I keep looking across upper Fourth of July Canyon at the New York Mountains peaks
If I had started today's hike a little earlier, I would have time to explore over that way a bit. - I keep hiking upward in the canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range, unaware of how much elevation I'm gaining
I'm well above 5000 feet elevation now and there are pinon pines and junipers everywhere. - I keep hiking up the old road into the New York Mountains, looking forward to seeing the old mine site ahead
I'm at about 5800 feet elevation now, but it still doesn't feel much cooler than it was down below. - I keep hiking up the gentle slope, passing through another patch of burned desert above Black Diamond Spring
- I keep hiking up Cornfield Spring Road and realize that I'm almost out of water already; not good on a hot day like this
I've hiked 2.5 miles and it's already well into the 80s. I should have returned to my tent for more water before hiking this far. I know better! Cornfield Spring is only 3/4 mile away, but I should turn back because it may not have water anyway. - I keep delaying my departure to Macedonia Canyon due to the light rain that falls from time to time
It hasn't rained enough for anything to get wet, so I finally decide to leave around 13h15. It's a pleasant 77 degrees and doesn't get much warmer due to the clouds hiding the sun. I finally decide that I might as well do my planned bike ride and hike in Macedonia Canyon despite any possible rain, since I'll get wet anyway, even if I stay here at Mid Hills campground. - I just descended 1000 feet in 1.7 miles down the steep Poverty Flat Road to the bottom of the canyon.
At the bottom of Poverty Flat Road is this dry-at-this-time-of-year crossing of Coyote Creek. I had a minor crash coming down Poverty Flat Road last year on a slippery (from powdered clay) switchback, and I was careful not to repeat that again this year! There are five campsites down here at Poverty Flat, and I've camped here a few times. On a hot weekday like today, there's nobody around anywhere, which suits me fine. Poverty Flat is only a third of a mile long (flat areas in Coe Park tend to be very short) and I ride across it to begin the climb out the other side of the canyon. I stop briefly at the modern concrete outhouse for a potty break (it's extremely hot inside) and then stand outside for a minutes in the shade of the outhouse, hiding from the sun. - I impress myself and cobble a vertical brace for the rack from two spare support bars that I've been carrying around for ages
Maybe my trip hasn't ended just yet! I'm not sure that these two bars screwed together will hold the rack in place, but my first impression is that it works. Now, should I continue on to Keystone Canyon some seven miles further, or turn back while the bike is still functional? The vertical silver bars constitute my repair; the horizontal silver bar attached to the brakes is part of the normal Old Man Mountain rack installation on mountain bikes. I never thought I'd use these two spare rack-support bars, and certainly not for this unintended purpose. - I hop around the rocks that surround my Cima Dome campsite and catch the pre-dusk orange desert glow
Gusty winds up here make a lot of noise, but occasionally they stop for a few moments, and then everything is quiet and peaceful. I can even hear a train six miles away passing through Cima down below. - I hitch up with an old road (now closed in a Wilderness area) and follow it toward Kelso Peak
Even though Mojave National Preserve has almost no official trails, none are really needed given the number of old roads that can be followed (and cross-country desert hiking is usually easy too). - I hike up the wash beyond the slot canyons above Malpais Spring, then hike cross-country over to Indian Spring
I don't know if there's anything of interest at this Indian Spring, but I'll find out shortly. - I hike up the rather barren hill toward the overlook above the Cliff Canyon Spring area
I have another 300 feet or so of elevation gain until I reach the top there. I'm finding that it's not quite as steep as I was expecting. - I hike through an upland valley on the way back to my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road
The rolling hilltops surrounding me have panoramic views of the area, but here in between them, I have none. It's an interesting feeling. - I hike through an area of heavy erosion in "South Broadwell Wash" west of Broadwell Mesa
This texture festival invites me to climb up that hill, but I'll resist the temptation. I notice a bobcat scurrying up a nearby hill. - I hike the 1.5-mile-long stretch of the old Ivanpah railway grade northbound to the Bathtub Spring area
Several slots were blasted through the rocky hills 100 years ago to create a fairly flat railway bed. The Bathtub Spring Peaks in the background, where I hiked in May 2011, pick up the golden pre-sunset light. - I hike past another set of Wilderness markers on the west side of the Castle Peaks Road dry reservoir
The former ranch roads in this Wilderness area serve as good hiking trails these days, even though they aren't formally considered as trails. - I hike past a small patch of yellow flowers, which seem to be goldfields (the tiny ones) and tidy tips, the larger ones
A single fiddleneck stem rises on the left side of the photo. I didn't know that tidy tips and goldfields grow in the Mojave, so I'm not sure if my observation is correct. - I hike over several low hills and across drainages on my cross-country hike toward Taylor Spring
The little ups and downs are fun, but care must be taken not to walk into piercing cacti or yuccas. - I hike over several hills before choosing a wash for descending back down toward my tent
Great views from here across the lava beds, with the Clark Mountain Range, a wonderful area to explore, in the distance at the far centre-right. - I hike down Lecyr Spring Road, which is quite eroded in places
High clearance required here! - I hike down a drainage below Wild Horse Mesa amongst some old unburned junipers
I mostly follow the drainage, but the shrubbery is occasionally thick and requires that I climb up above in order to get past it. - I hike cross-country in the Cady Mountains foothills one final mile to get back to my tent, avoiding the powerline road nearby
I was up near the top of one of those peaks of Sleeping Beauty a few days ago. I'm piecing the visual map together in my mind. - I hike cross-country a while across rolling Joshua-tree-and-juniper forest in the Trio Mine area
It's not quite as a dense as the Joshua-tree forest near Cima, but many of the Joshua trees are mature and display the usual array of interesting shapes. - I hike by the old prospect that I passed on the way up and I'm back on the old road again, still heading downward
Not far ahead, the road will rise slightly out of the canyon and cross over the pass straight ahead between the two hills. - I hike across the New York Mountains foothills back to my tent, slowly, to preserve energy, Mojave National Preserve
I'm taking a lot of short breaks, due to the heat, and enjoy occasional gusts of hot wind. I startle a few jackrabbits and birds on my way back to the tent. I can't drink as much water as I need because of heatsickness, but I'll recover after sunset. - I hike across Crucero Road near Broadwell Dry Lake, surprised that it's rougher than I thought
When I rode here last night in the dark, I was thrilled to have a non-sandy surface that I could actually ride. Sure, it was bumpy, but it felt almost as smooth as pavement at the time. It must be really muddy here after a rain. - I hike across an area with a lot of Fremont pincushion flowers
I remember this area, and these Fremont's pincushion flowers, from my hike here in 2008. - I hike a short distance up an adjacent canyon near Cave Spring, but decide not to continue too far, given the heat of the day
Lots of barrel cacti in this area! - I hike a little further up Bolder Spring wash and reach a fork
Oh, a decision to make. My main goal of the day was to check for water at Bolder Spring, and now that's done. I could climb the right fork into the mountains and make my way back to camp that way. Instead, I decide to head left up over a ridge of hills that overlook the north fork of Globe Mine Road. - I hide under the train tracks for a few minutes to get out of the hot sun
While I'm here, I send another text message, since I'm still in cell-phone range, and won't be for much longer. - I heat up water for my instant Starbucks coffee, eat granola, dried fruits and nuts, and prepare my backpack for today's hike
I'm not a morning person, but I want to get started early so I can hike as far as possible toward Broadwell Mesa with minimal hiking after dark on the return trip. - I heat up a boil-in-bag Indian-style breakfast, happy that my tent survived last night's wind storm
The strong wind this morning persists in its attempt to extinguish the flame of my propane burner, so it's taking longer than usual to boil water. At least it's no longer rip-the-tent-apart windy like it was last night. - I hear some noise, look up, and notice an owl, noticing me
We watch each other peacefully for a few minutes. - I hear some noise while starting up the east fork of Beecher Canyon and notice a herd of cows in the distance, scurrying away
I've been seeing a lot of cow patties in the canyon, some of them quite fresh, but I'm somehow surprised when I actually come across cows. This doesn't feel like a cow-friendly landscape. - I hear a trickle of water somewhere nearby, so I walk past the yellow mesquite blooms into the patch of yerba mansa flowers
I keep watching for snakes, as this seems like a perfect place for them to loiter inconspicuously. I've seen several huge black bees in the area, but no snakes yet. - I head west across the Ivanpah Valley on Nipton Road
Seven miles away from Nipton, I'll turn left on Ivanpah Road, just before the road starts to climb the big hill ahead. - I head up toward a saddle near Vanderbilt Peak behind the tree at upper left
On the way up, I cross several several washes, including this one filled with yellow flowers (snakeweed, I think). - I head up "the shortcut" to check out a better road that I saw on my way here, but which is not on my maps
I dismount the bike to walk through the sand at the start of the shortcut road. I'm a bit confused because Wilderness barriers here block an intersecting wash not indicated on my maps as being within a Wilderness area. However, I will learn later from a ranger at Kelso Depot that the Wilderness boundaries have changed since publication of my maps. - I head southwest across the burned Mid Hills plateau back toward the campground, with Eagle Rocks in the distance
I have a panicked moment when I set my orange GPS unit on the ground and have a hard time finding it again because it blends in so well with the gravelly soil here. I walk around in circles until I relocate it. - I head east, downhill, a couple of miles on Wild Horse Canyon Road until it reaches Black Canyon Road beyond the pinnacle ahead
Despite the dark clouds behind me, it's still a bright and sunny day over toward Pinto Mountain, Round Valley, and beyond. - I head east up Nipton Road toward Crescent Pass, Nevada, up in the hills at centre-left
I'll climb almost 1850 feet over the next 4.5 miles. The cool breeze helps to moderate the hot sun. A tailwind makes the climb easier. - I head downhill into the canyon toward the China Ranch date farm
Wow, this is interesting. - I head down into the shade in the Sleeping Beauty mountains
I figure I'll probably exit the mountains on the fan a mile or so northwest of my campsite, and then hike back to my tent on flatter land. - I head back up the power-line road to camp, looking back toward Sands
A really nice sunset is forming off in the distance toward Barstow, where the gloomy cloud cover appears to end. - I head back down from my Cady Mountains summit
The excitement of gaining elevation is over, but the late-day sunlight is setting in for a scenic 4-mile hike back "home" to the tent. - I haven't seen pavement in a few days, so the six miles on asphalt from Pachalka Spring Road to Valley Wells is a smooth change
This stretch of reddish asphalt in Shadow Valley is ever-so-slightly uphill, rising 350 feet over six miles. I'm facing a strong south headwind, typical for the area, but it's still not as slow as walking the 10-ton bike down a rocky road! - I haven't seen many wildflowers along the old railway grade, so a patch of paintbrush really catches my attention when I pass by
I'm anxious to get past this mound here for better views toward the New York Mountains. - I haven't seen any people yet today, but I have found signs of people: a balloon
It's pink, but it's not a flower. A hummingbird will likely approach this to see if it's a flower or not. - I haven't seen any large animals here today, but this scat shows that some are indeed here somewhere
Animals would presumably enjoy the shelter provided by all the rock formations here at Eagle Rocks. - I haven't had a flat tire yet on this trip, so I celebrate upon arriving at the Nipton store with a bottle of Fat Tire beer
One beer becomes two, and two bags of potato chips for some quick carbs. Maybe I should stay here tonight instead of at the casino-hotel at Primm, 10 miles away, where I need to catch the Amtrak bus early tomorrow morning. Yeah, that's what I'll do. - I haven't climbed much yet, but I'm already way above Pacheco Creek
The bluish dot in the centre of the photo that looks like it might be water is actually the old tin building ruins that I passed earlier. - I haven't chosen a destination yet for today's ride, so I go for a walk to look at some of Nipton's buildings
This antique tin-clad shed sits on a raised partial foundation. - I haven't been down this road before; I'm ready to ride down to 17-Mile Point (the near hill at left)
The road looks rideable from here, especially because it's downhill, but I never expect these back roads to be rideable for long on a fully loaded bike. We'll see... - I have to walk the bike across several sandy wash crossings on the pipeline road
... but the ride is going well so far. - I have to put my sweater on for the hike back down Old Dad Canyon
Strong, chilly winds have set in, so I have to put my sweater on before starting the walk back down. I wonder if it's just windy up here, or if it's windy down at my campsite as well. - I have to laugh while walking around my new campsite; I discover that I'm at the end of Castle Peaks Road without realizing it
The old road continues beyond this Wilderness boundary as a trail for hikers and horse riders, but is closed to cars and bicycles. My USGS map shows the entire road, but not the Wilderness boundary, so I thought there was still more ridable road ahead. - I have the whole day to spend up here on Cima Dome, so I'll do a hike up to Teutonia Peak and beyond
I really lucked out that the Cima Store was open yesterday afternoon when I passed by. I wouldn't be at this great location if it had been closed. It was a bit chilly overnight, which is predictable since I'm up at 5000 feet elevation, but the clothing I wore to bed turned out to be too warm (long underwear plus jeans, and t-shirt plus sweater). - I have more patches of brush to cut through or circumvent here in Butcher Knife Canyon
I'll cross over to the other side of the stream to see if I can avoid this. - I have good footing on this hill, but have to be careful not to get to close to those yuccas in case I slip!
Yucca leaves are like pointy knives! - I have cell-phone reception here at Broadwell Natural Arch, so I check and send a few text messages
Happy Thanksgiving to you too, Choon. I am so absorbed by this trip that I had incredibly forgotten that today is Thanksgiving Day! Then again, I'm known to occasionally forget my own birthday... - I have an easy one-mile walk down Pine Spring Road to finish off the day's hike
I climb up a small hill to check out a few barrel cacti growing by the road. - I have almost five miles to ride up the gently rising Kelso-Cima Road until I reach Cima and the possibly open Cima store
The thermometer is supposed to reach 96 degrees F at Cima, and I'm feeling the heat on this little uphill here. - I have almost 20 miles to ride on this road until I reach Primm and end the day (and this year's trip)
I've got the road all to myself, except for the occasional passing train. Of course, I might encounter a motor vehicle also. - I have about 10 miles of uphill ahead of me on Morning Star Mine Road
"Caution: this road subject to flash-flood." The road cuts through creosote-bush scrub at the lower elevations as it slowly begins its climb up the hill. I'm heading south now, and the first thing I notice is that I'm pedaling hard into a strong headwind. - I have a slight headwind, so I don't hear the six 4WD vehicles sneaking up behind me on the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade
I'm startled! I hear a noise, then notice six vehicles right behind me! Shocking, I haven't seen people in 3 days. As they pass, we chat briefly. One of them gives me a bottle of water (colder than mine, thanks!) and one of them thinks I'm nuts. Some people don't realize it's possible and potentially rewarding to travel without a motor vehicle. Motor-vehicle advertising, which so many people happily consume, reinforces such ideas. Ironically, the people who think my bicycle trips are impossibly extreme are sometimes people much stronger than I. - I have a delicious supper at Rosita's on Barstow's Main Street
Mexican-American can be bland, but they seem to do it well here. Homemade corn tortillas, generous spicy salsa on the side, Mexican rice in which you can actually taste tomato, and generous machaca portion, nothing over-salted (soup is blah, however) - I have a 700-foot elevation drop ahead of me here on the west end of Cedar Canyon Road
Down we go! - I have 8 miles of downhill on Kelbaker Road before I reach Kelso, but a strong headwind is slowing me down
I've had a strong headwind going down this hill several times in the past. Bicyclists hate it when they have to pedal downhill! - I hate packing up, but it's always fun to see all my stuff packed into the relatively small size of my saddlebags
I wish I were able to carry some wood and have an evening campfire in this fire ring. - I hate packing up, but it went reasonably well, and now I begin the ride down Castle Peaks Road
Leaving my campsite by 10h is early for me, but I have a long ride ahead across the heart of Mojave National Preserve. In the sand here, I have to walk the 10-ton bike, and I see my bike tracks and footprints from the past couple of days. - I hate my decision: I'm going to pack up and cancel my hike into the Newberry Mountains, even though I'm camped at my trailhead
I don't have a good feeling about this wind storm, perhaps because of the cold temperature. I just don't feel confident that my tent will be here undamaged upon my return in eight hours if I do my planned hike up into the Newberry Mountains. - I hang out at the Kelso Depot visitor centre for almost an hour, fill up my water supply, and ask rangers about area conditions
This is my last sure water stop before heading off to the Globe Mine Road area, where a couple of probably-dry springs just might contain water. With salt stains on my face, I make sure my four 1.5-litre bottles, two-litre Camelbak, and 10-litre water bag are full. This 18 litres of water (4.75 gallons) weighs just under 40 pounds (18 kg). Ugh, heavy. I chat with two helpful rangers at Kelso Depot. I had spoken at length with one of them during my last trip and he highly recommended a visit to the Piute Springs area, which remains on my list, but didn't make it into my route for this trip. The other fellow recognizes me because he stumbled across my previous Mojave National Preserve travelogues on the web. - I guess it's time to stumble upon a stray balloon, since I haven't seen one yet today here in Borrego Canyon
- I guess I need to leave Nipton and get on with the final leg of this trip
The refreshments and relaxation have been good. I've also had a few good chats with people visiting the store, as well as with the gal working here (who I've seen several times over the years). - I grab some breakfast at Barstow's Village Café, which is probably cooking with the bad city water, since they're still open
I like the old cash register in this Chinese-American establishment. I've only been out of San José for a day and I already miss Asian food, since it's what I eat most. - I go outside the tent for a moment barefoot (which I usually never do) and step on a yellowjacket: instant sting
This might be just painful for some, but I'm very allergic to wasps and am fearing a dangerous reaction. I take a benadryl and stab myself with one of the epinephrine syringes that I carry in case of this sort of emergency, and I survive. The needle turns out to be painless (I'm not even sure if it's in me when I inject myself). After an hour of worrying, I'm happy to notice that I'm not getting sick or feeling any signs of anaphylactic shock. Those wasp-venom desensitization shots I've been getting over the past eight months have helped! I feel like it's safe to try eating, so I prepare my last instant backpacking meal of the trip and enjoy it. No ducks down here like there were at Paradise Lake, but during the evening I've been hearing jays squawking, coyotes yipping, crickets singing and all sorts of unidentifiable noises in the brush. I even saw a few bats earlier. I take another Benadryl for its anti-inflammatory effect before going to sleep, happy that my "event" seems to have passed. The only problem is that walking on my swollen foot is difficult, but I won't need to do that while enjoying my last sleep of this Henry Coe trip.