Home 7119
- It's a steep 600-foot drop from Wild Horse Mesa down to Bluejay Mine and my bike
I start looking for a feasible route down that's more direct than the route I used to get up here. - I climb up onto Wild Horse Mesa and revel in the views toward Beecher Canyon and Providence Mountains
I've circled this part of Mojave National Preserve many times, but I've missed out on the experience of the 360-degree views up here until now. - Looking south across Wild Horse Mesa, Mojave National Preserve
Wow... it's a world of isolation up here on this barren, windswept plain suspended above the surrounding Mojave desert. - Looking southwest across Wild Horse Mesa, the plateau drops off into the southern end of Beecher Canyon
There are several square miles worth exploring up here on Wild Horse Mesa. Noise here consists of wind gushing past my ears and the repetitive cries of a very raucous bird, perhaps a screech owl? - My maps indicate that the summit of Wild Horse Mesa is only a half mile northeast, so I start walking that way
Wild Horse Mesa summit is only 300 feet higher, and I've already climbed this far, so I might as well go the rest of the way. But I doubt the views can get much better! - Last chance to spontaneously change my route and walk straight ahead down Beecher Canyon...
If I walked down that way, instead of up the hill to the left, I'd eventually end up down below the Mitchell Caverns/Providence Mountains State Recreation Area, which I visited in 2000. That's another nice area that I just haven't gotten around to visiting again. - I cross the juniper-studded drainage that is Beecher Canyon's "headwaters" and begin the climb up to Wild Horse Mesa
I'll leave the descent into Beecher Canyon for a future trip... I'm at about 5000 feet right here, some 485 feet below the peak behind Bluejay Mine that I just traversed. - It's only a quarter mile up to the Wild Horse Mesa plateau, but it's a steep 300 feet elevation gain
Loose rock halfway up the hill makes for a slippery hike at times. I get a bit worried that I may need to alter my route, but the the ground turns out to be much firmer near the plateau. - The Mojave storm clouds have brought high winds that try to blow the hat off my head
A few warm raindrops fall and I'm a bit worried, hopeful that no serious rain is going to develop. - I watch an agave on my way down toward Beecher Canyon
Beecher Canyon is enticing and scenic. I'd like to hike all the way down there if I had a different schedule. - Desert dudleya growing in rock on the way down toward Beecher Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
These quirky succulents always get my attention when I run across them. - I pack my backpack and hike up the steep hill above Bluejay Mine and the Winkler's Cabin site
I take it slowly because it's over 450 feet of elevation gain in less than half a mile. The views back down to the valley are stupendous, despite the ominous clouds on the horizon. A few raindrops fall. - Atop the ridge, it's exciting to look over the other side to a world where it appears that man rarely visits
I see the Providence Mountains and canyons that I've never seen before. I'm going to walk down that way a bit and see if I can climb up to Wild Horse Mesa from there. - A lizard scurries along a burned timber outside the entrance to the Bluejay Mine, Mojave National Preserve
Is he looking for sun or shade? - This low rock wall looks like it may be the remants of a foundation, or maybe it's just a retaining wall for a former garden
Perhaps this is the foundation of the Winkler's Cabin that used to be here. - Debris at the burned Winkler's Cabin site at the end of Bluejay Mine Road, Mojave National Preserve
The big barrel looks like it might have been used to burn garbage outdoors, or perhaps it served as a heating unit inside the former cabin. - The entrance to the old Bluejay Mine appears to have been recently rebuilt with fresh wood
The old mine entrance was probably burned during the 2005 fire, but with no signs in the area, one can only guess if the mine entrance is being repaired by the National Park Service or restored by a volunteer group. - I come around a bend and realize I'm at the end of the road, looking at the Bluejay Mine site
I park the bike, put on my headband to catch my sweat drips, and traipse around the area. - Out here in the middle of nowhere, I stumble upon a memorial plaque dedicated to James Winkler
It immediately clicks that I must be at the site of "Winkler's Cabin," which reportedly burned during the 2005 fires. I had never visited Winkler's Cabin, but thought it was elsewhere, closer to Mid Hills campground. - Bluejay Mine Road enters a wash and I look at the tracks I've carved behind me
It's a bit sandy here. Other tracks here indicate that motor vehicles have come this far a few times and turned around, probably fearing that the road would worsen. - The fearful motorists were correct; Bluejay Mine Road does worsen, as most dead-end desert tracks do
However, the surface is still well-packed in places, so I continue riding, walking the bike occasionally when the road gets too rocky or sandy. - Bluejay Mine Road rises out of the wash, sort of, but is really bumpy, and a bit uphill, so I'm now walking more than riding
This area burned badly during the 2005 "Hackberry Complex" brush fires, but slow signs of recovery are apparent. Some of the bright green shrubs in the area are young juniper trees. - Bluejay Mine Road appears to my right about six miles from Mid Hills campsite 22, at about 4740 feet elevation
This rough road is only about 1.5 miles long. I never even noticed this road while riding down Wild Horse Canyon Road during my previous Mojave National Preserve trips. I was too busy enjoying the rides. - Wild Horse Mesa, the target of today's hike, is the flat-topped formation ahead
I encounter only one vehicle on Wild Horse Canyon Road this morning: this parked cattle truck. The Bluejay Mine Road that I'm looking for today will be behind the low hill straight ahead and in front of Wild Horse Mesa. - Wild Horse Canyon Road continues its twisty-windy descent, which is getting flatter
The washboarded road surface rattles my bones and keeps me from riding too fast. A couple of cows just crossed the road here. - 3/4 mile from campsite 22, I exit Mid Hills campground and turn right to start descending Wild Horse Canyon Road
From 5620 feet at site 22, the 100-foot drop to the campground exit is made even more pleasant by the perfect 76-degree temperature. - Wild Horse Canyon Road is one of my favourite mountain-bike rides in Mojave National Preserve
The Providence Mountains views are always a welcome sight as Wild Horse Canyon Road trickles down through the Mid Hills, mostly at a four-five percent grade. It's occasionally steeper though, and even flat or uphill once in a while. - I get ready to leave Mid Hills campground for a ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road
Some clouds this morning kept the sun from getting too hot, so I managed to sleep in a bit. I didn't sleep well last night; I tossed and turned a lot. After tea and breakfast, I prepare my saddlebags and backpack, stop at the tap to fill my water (six litres), and off I go. Breakfast was granola, tamari almonds, tart black prunes, a couple of dried pears and a handful of pine nuts (not harvested here at the Preserve). - Mid Hills campground to Wildcat Spring and Chicken Water Spring hiking route elevation profile (Day 4)
- Mid Hills campground to Wildcat Spring and Chicken Water Spring hiking route map (Day 4)
- I enjoy watching the sun go down behind the hills in the Eagle Rocks area
The first full day hike of this Mojave National Preserve trip has been excellent, thanks in part to the nice temperatures up here at Mid Hills (it's 75 degrees right now and there's a cool breeze). I make a small pot of instant miso soup with seaweed and eat some plain beef jerky before making my "big meal," which is Natural High Honey Mustard Chicken and Rice. It's good, but not quite as exciting as it might sound. The flavour is a bit light, but the wild rice in the mix is what really makes it worthwhile. There are not as many flies here tonight as last night, but a few are flitting against my tent. At dusk, a bee and a yellowjacket wasp seem to be seeking me out, but can't get in my tent. For a few minutes, the yellowjacket sits on the drinking nib of my Camelbak, which is hanging on my bike, and makes love to the water vapour that exudes from it. I fall asleep easily, tired and happy. - Nice views of Eagle Rocks again as I get close to reentering Mid Hills campground
A few orange desert mallows are still flowering here; most of the mallows I saw today have already finished flowering. - And a mariposa lily...
This quirky plant is so small that it's almost non-existent, except for its flashy poppy-like flower. - My short cross-country hike comes to an end when I reach the road through Mid Hills campground
I walk up the road and back to my tent; the campground appears to be empty again this evening. Good! - Back at Mid Hills campground site 22 after today's hike to Eagle Rocks and Wildcat Spring
I drink a cup of electrolyte-replacing drink and refill my water bottles for the evening from the campground tap. An aggressive bee follows me to the water tap. The cold water tastes and feels great. - I crawl under a barbed-wire fence so I can walk up Wild Horse Canyon Road
This barbed wire looks fairly fresh, so this may be a cattle area that was recently bought out by the Preserve. Or, it's an area where cattle grazing still takes place and I didn't see any cattle? - I walk up Wild Horse Canyon road and cross a cattle guard
One of my feet almost slips into a slot between the cattle-guard grates, oops. It occurs to me that my carelessness is due to having never walked over a cattle guard before, even though I've ridden over them hundreds of times. - I decide to follow the small dirt road to my left instead of staying on the main road back to Mid Hills campground
Mid Hills campground is roughly in front of hills ahead. The small road leads to the Eagle Rocks area, but not back into the campground. - After a 1/4 mile on the dirt road, I begin heading cross-country through the partially burned desert forest
A bit of colour speckles the floor in this area: paper-bag bush (light yellow), desert marigold (bright yellow) and desert four o'clocks (magenta). - I walk the final 1/2 mile up from Silver Lead Spring to Wild Horse Canyon Road at 5500 feet elevation
The view of New York Mountains in the distance is nice; I'll pop out onto Wild Horse Canyon Road in a few minutes and be on my way back to Mid Hills campground. - Silver Lead Spring: I almost missed it, but here it is on a small hill just above the wash
Contaminated water is flowing out of an old mine hole; I wouldn't touch it with my water filter. The purple desert four o'clock flowers at the left of the photo don't seem to mind the dirty water. - Just to the east of the main part of Silver Lead Spring is an old conrete-and-rock retainer
The water held here is dark brown, perhaps tainted by something from the mine shaft. - Firecracker penstemon (Penstemon eatonii) in the wash below Silver Lead Spring
I planted a couple of these in my San José garden and they grew for one season only; they prefer life out here in the desert. - Bones in wash near Silver Lead Spring, Mojave National Preserve
A burro was here? I haven't encountered any burros on any of my Mojave National Preserve trips yet, but I know they're around. - A broken-down gate near Silver Lead Spring
According to my GPS, I'm near Silver Lead Spring now, so I'm looking out for signs of water. Apparently this is an old grazing area, and excrement is everywhere. - I stumble across an old rusty water trough near Silver Lead Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I must be REALLY close to Silver Lead Spring now. - Here's an old concrete cistern near Silver Lead Spring
...and some rubber piping that doesn't look all that old. Now I'm getting excited. Where exactly is Silver Lead Spring? Am I standing on it? - I continue walking up the wash toward Silver Lead Spring and Wild Horse Canyon Road
I need to calm down, but don't. The uphill here is steeper than it looks, rising about 1000 feet over two miles. Since it doesn't look steep, I unconsciously attack the hill as if it were flat, drinking lots of water, required by the 80s temperature. - I pass a meticulously contructed bird's nest in the wash on the way up to Silver Lead Spring
Just out of curiosity, I wish I knew which birds live here. - The wash leading up to Silver Lead Spring and Wild Horse Canyon Road is wide
Animal trails provide an easy trail to follow. - I start hiking up the wash that will pass Silver Lead Spring on the way up to to Wild Horse Canyon Road
I leave Chicken Water Spring valley behind me as I rise up along old tire tracks that are no longer open to vehicles (this is in a federally designated Wilderness area). - After Chicken Water Spring, I look for an uphill wash on my left that will take me up to Wild Horse Canyon Road
This part of Chicken Water Spring Road is well-packed and might even be rideable on the 10-ton bike in the uphill direction. Maybe. - A broken-down brick cistern sits in the corral at Chicken Water Spring, Mojave National Preserve
Another dead cistern, smaller and made of concrete, sits just outside the corral, but where is Chicken Water Spring itself? I look around. - Chicken Water Spring, to my surprise, drips into this shiny, new steel basin
This area was obviously heavily burned during the 2005 "Hackberry Complex" brush fires, so I'm guessing that this spring tub was installed here after the fire. - The basin at Chicken Water Spring is mostly full, though the water may not be the freshest
Perhaps I could have bike-camped here and purified the water with my water filter. I had been worried that there might not be water here. Mojave National Preserve is so large that staff usually doesn't know if smaller springs like this contain water. Mojave National Preserve is not a backpacker-friendly park in that respect. - I don't mind the dead moths in the Chicken Water Spring basin, but the dead lizard makes the water less appetizing
I pluck the dead lizard out of the water and leave it on the ground for the wildlife to eat. There's no algal growth in this spring tub, so the water would probably be fine after filtering, despite the dead lizard, which hasn't started to decompose. - An old foundation near the end of Chicken Water Spring Road
It's hard to guess what this may have been, perhaps someone's cabin, but it wasn't very big. - Chicken Water Spring Road is quite indistinct here and doesn't look like it has been driven often in recent years
Chicken Water Spring Road winds around the remains of an old corral. If I had come up this road on the 10-ton bike, I probably would have been walking it, which is what I anticipated. Columbia Mountain presides in the background. - A stark pinnacle just south of Coyote Spring on the way to Chicken Water Spring
If I weren't so preoccupied with covering a certain amount of distance during the next couple of hours, this would be a fun hill to climb up to see if my cell phone gets reception at the top. - Chicken Water Spring is off to my right, but I decide to walk straight ahead for a short loop around this end of the valley
Nice sage in front of me. A possible bicycle route on this trip was to camp near the bottom of the rocky slope ahead, where an old road, still open to vehicles, ends. I'm hiking to that location instead. - Many buckwheats are still flowering up on this ridgelet between Coyote Spring and Chicken Water Spring
I'm a bit late in Mojave National Preserve this spring and have missed most of the wildflowers, but there are still a few to enjoy. - The descent into the valley of Chicken Water Spring is so short and easy that it's almost not a descent
I only drop down 50 feet or so here. Footprints abound in this area, none them human. The tall peak straight ahead is Columbia Mountain. - I climb up the hill above Coyote Spring and try my cell phone
No reception here. Oh well... I guess I won't be changing my outgoing message today to let people know exactly where I am (I know there will be no reception further up near Wild Horse Canyon Road). - Small blue flowers peer out from between some rocks on the ridge between Coyote Spring and Chicken Water Spring
I've seen these before, but don't remember what they are. - Map and GPS check at the the top of the low ridge 200 feet above, and just south of, Coyote Spring
I'm on my way now to Chicken Water Spring, a mile or so away over in the next hidden, unnamed valley. - Wildcat Spring is not completely dry, yet, upon further inspection
A small trickle of water and a lot of mud here host many flies, but my guess is that Wildcat Spring will be dry within a month or so. If I weren't carrying water, I could dig a hole to allow water to accumulate and then filter it. - I take a short break at Wildcat Spring and drink some of the water I brought with me
I carry a water filter on my trips, but the $12/night fee at Mid Hills campground pays for the luxury of being able to refill my water supply without effort for day hikes like this. Plus, the National Parks Service deserves our support, especially in a park like Mojave National Preserve which (fortunately for those of us who seek solitude) doesn't have huge visitation numbers nor an entrance fee (yet). - I leave Wildcat Spring and start hiking toward my next stop, Coyote Spring, about 1/2 mile beyond
Note the faded track here of an old road. This is not the same Mojave National Preserve Coyote Springs that I visited during my 2008 Mojave National Preserve trip. That one is situated in the lower Granite Mountains, south of Kelso Depot. - My GPS leads me around a bend toward Coyote Spring; I'm at the lowest elevation of today's trip, 4430 feet
A giant rhus trilobata (that big green bush) welcomes me into the wash that presumably leads up to Coyote Spring. A mourning dove runs away, trying desparately to fly, but apparently injured and flightless. - All this greenery says that this must be Coyote Spring, but I don't see any water here, not even a bit of mud
I stop for another short break and devour a Clif bar here. I guess I'm a few weeks too late to see water here at Coyote Spring. - Looking back again at the Eagle Rocks and Mid Hills area
This remote upland valley is incredibly scenic and, despite being sandwiched between the well-travelled Kelso-Cima Road and Mid Hills area, it feels like humans rarely come here. - My Delorme GPS leads me into a small wash as I look for signs of Wildcat Spring
Two deer dart across the wash and a covey of quail noisily disperses, startling me in the quiet desert; I should be getting close... - Wildcat Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I walk around a bend, startle another covey of quail, and here is Wildcat Spring. It looks dry. - The toughest part for me is just before the bottom, where I'm left with no choice but to jump down a few boulders
Hiking solo in a remote area means that one must meet challenges and surpass one's usual limits carefully, not taking too many risks, and turning back if necessary. Your cell phone doesn't work here. - I reach the bottom of the boulders and look back to see what I've just climbed down; I expect sore knees and thighs tomorrow
I celebrate by drinking a bunch of my already-warm water and a covey of quail clucks and scatters, very annoyed by my intrusion into their space. I'm in awe that the boulder pile doesn't look as steep as it seemed while climbing down it. - Entering the next phase of today's hike, I start heading down toward Wildcat Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I pre-recorded a route through this area on my Delorme GPS and am also carrying a good topo map from mytopo.com to assist me. A couple of jackrabbits run away when they detect me. - Oh good, a level spot, but perhaps followed by a steep drop...
Cool erosion pock marks on the rocks here. - I'm a bit stuck right here and will have to squeeze behind the manzanita (and other) brush here to reach the next step down
My arm and hat get charcoal stains from hugging a burned pinon pine on the way, but so far, so good. I hope I am not heading toward a drop-off that I won't be able to climb down? - I'm getting closer to the bottom, but each time I think I see an easy next-step-down, it turns out to be less simple
Of course, if this exercise were too easy, it would be less fun. - Looking back up the boulder pile as I get closer to the bottom
I have hardly any rock-climbing experience, so this descent has been an entertaining and challenging puzzle so far. - I pass an unexpected manzanita shrub as I begin my way down the boulder pile
Manzanitas do grow at some of the higher elevations in the Mojave, but it's more a coastal California plant. - It looks a bit steeper going down than I was hoping for
I'll try my luck and continue downward, but if it gets too treacherous, I may have to climb back up to the ridge and try descending somewhere else. - Three bugs are enjoying this thistle blossom
They ignore me, which is fine, since one of them looks like a potentially stinging bee. - The texture of the Eagle Rocks area is perhaps even more interesting on their back side
A person could easily spend an entire day walking a short loop around Eagle Rocks, staring at the mesmerizing lines and forms, forgetting where he is. - My next stop will be down in the hidden valley at Wildcat Spring; perhaps it's that tiny green spot down there, I'm not sure yet
I'm not sure how to get down there, but it looks like I need to start climbing down off this ridge soon. - Maybe this one should be called Buttock Rock
I like the necklace effect on the lower part of these rocks. I've seen several rocks in this area like this. - I begin hiking beyond Eagle Rocks into new territory that I've been looking forward to visiting
A lot of lavender-coloured verbena flowers cover this particular slope. - There's no shortage of quirky rocks in the Eagle Rocks area to look at
It would be easy to spend a whole afternoon rambling around right here exploring the rocks. A lot of the small green patches in the background are junipers coming back after the 2005 "Hackberry Complex" fire. - Palmer's penstemon blooms on the way up the gulley toward Eagle Rocks
Whenever I see one of these penstemons in the Mojave Desert, a few happy bees are buzzing around. - Eagle Rocks, Mojave National Preserve
I've stared at these huge rock piles each time I've ridden the 10-ton bike up Kelso-Cima Road during my past Mojave National Preserve trips, but have never visited them close up until now. - A patch of asters on the way down to the gulley between Mid Hills campground and Eagle Rocks
I won't see many more of these during this trip. - A bee tightens up and launches itself toward a thistle bloom
There are quite a few white thistle flowers in the gulch between Mid Hills campground and Eagle Rocks. - Mid Hills campground's 26 campsites are all nicely deserted this morning, except for mine
I walk up the road to the nearby water tap and rinse my hair. I'm not a big fan of campgrounds, but this one is really nice. You can hear your neighbours, if you have any, but you often can't see them due to the rolling terrain and the juniper and pinon pine trees (many of which burned in 2005). - Across the road from the water tap, I ponder the wiew of the Eagle Rocks, which will be the first stop on today's hike
Not visible in this photo is the steep gulley between here and Eagle Rocks. Lots of desert marigold flowers up here at Mid Hills, even though the flowering season down below has already pretty much dried up for the summer months. - I'm being watched!
This bird, a pinon jay, I think, is watching me from one of the nearby burned trees. Perhaps he's waiting for me to leave so he can take a bath in the puddle of water I left below the tap. - Back at my tent, a lizard pretends to hide from my camera under a nearby pinon pine
Does he really think he's invisible just because he has stopped moving? - I consult my maps and have breakfast and hot tea (which makes me sweat) inside my tent
There are a lot of flies this morning, plus the occasional yellowjacket wasp and big black bee checking me out, so I'm more comfortable and carefree inside the tent with the screens up. Breakfast is Mountain House Beef Stew, one of my favourites. - I prepare my backpack for the day and begin by walking down the short steep hill into the gulley behind Mid Hills campground
I'm carrying six litres of water, epipens in case of yellowjacket sting, a flashlight, three Clif bars, a small bag of almonds, some maps, my GPS unit, camera, extra batteries; I think that's all. - Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve before today's hike to Eagle Rocks and Wildcat Spring
It's so nice to sleep in a bit! The morning sun is hot, so I do have to open the flap on the shady side of the tent to let the heat out. But it's a pleasant 76 degrees up here in the mountains, and it even dropped into the 50s overnight! - Sunset haze drifts over the Ivanpah Mountains and the Clark Mountain Range beyond
I hope to make it over to the Clark Mountain area next week. For now I'll enjoy the sunset and perfect evening temperature from inside my tent, screened off from the flies and moths. Supper is Backpacker's Pantry Jamaican BBQ Chicken and Rice. The bit of spice is nice, but overall rather bland in flavour; too much taste of rehydrated vegetables. It's OK, but I can do better, I'll try not to buy this one again. I am treated to soothing breezes from time to time throughout the evening. High above these hills, phantom winds howl eerily, heard clearly, but usually not felt. I'm exhausted from the heat of the last couple of days and today's climb of almost 3500 feet. I fall asleep before 23h, a rarity for me. - Mid Hills campground sunset; I set up my burner on the picnic table and get ready to boil water for tonight's meal
I'm comfortably cool up here at 5600 feet where a nearby weather station is recording 74 degrees. Now that I've escaped from the heat down below, I think I'm going to enjoy this Mojave National Preserve trip after all. - Returning to my tent at Mid Hills site 22, I spot some tiny flowers along the road that I've never noticed before
Maybe I've seen these plants many times but didn't notice them because they weren't flowering... - Wild Horse Canyon Road junction, and Mid Hills campground is just two miles away
I'm getting close, but I'm quite pooped. I always feel like this whenever I approach Mid Hills campground. The best part is that I'm at 5275 feet elevation and it's noticeably cooler up here. - The last couple of miles before Mid Hills campground bring a few short hills just when you have little energy left
These final short hills aren't all that steep (three to eight per cent grade), but they kick my butt each time I come here on the 10-ton bike. I usually end up walking the bike up them to conserve energy. - Almost at Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve
The slight uphill and gravelly, washboard surface of Wild Horse Canyon Road makes for a very slow final quarter mile! - Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, entrance kiosk
This kiosk burned down during the "Hackberry Complex" forest fires of 2005. - I ride through Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, and select site 22, where I've camped previously
Site 22 was not burned by the 2005 fires like half of the camp sites. It has great views toward the Clark Mountain Range without being quite as exposed to the mountain winds as some of the adjacent, higher camp sites. (It does get windy up here!) - Desert four o'clock flowers
So far, I've only encountered desert four o'clocks in the higher mountain areas of the Mojave Desert. - A pinon pine infant grows near a banana yucca at Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve
Many of the pinon pines and junipers at Mid Hill campground burned during the 2005 fires here. This pinon seedling demonstrates post-fire regrowth in the area. - After selecting site 22, I ride through the deserted Mid Hills campground back to the entrance kiosk to deposit my fees
It's a 0.6-mile ride back to the entrance kiosk. I pass a lone car at one camp site, but it's leaving. Mid Hills campground is otherwise empty, which pleases me since I come to Mojave National Preserve seeking solitude, not other campers. Everyone except me is apparently going back to work tomorrow after the long Memorial Day weekend. Perfect timing! I deposit $60 at the kiosk to cover five nights of camping, in the hope of the campground mostly to myself during the week. - Cedar Canyon Road is scenic, but I'm always so happy when I reach the junction of Black Canyon Road at 5000 feet
I take a break here to cool down and eat another Clif bar before continuing up Black Canyon Road to Mid Hills campground, pretending to photograph things while I linger here. A woman in an RV passes by, looking for directions and we chat for ten minutes. She discovered Mojave National Preserve by chance on her trip and loves it here (she camped at Sunrise Rock near Cima Dome last night). However, the washboarded dirt roads here are difficult for her. - Black Canyon Road rises up from Cedar Canyon Road toward the Mid Hills, Mojave National Preserve
It's not all that steep, but on a heavily loaded bike near the end of a long, warm day, it can feel like a sharp uphill. The heavy 2.35" Serfas Swoop mountain tires that I put on the bike for this trip are really helping. - Black Canyon Road's grade here ranges from three to seven per cent, with a bit of loose sand on a hard washboard surface
This is one of the toughest parts of today's ride, as it always is when I ride to Mid Hills campground. - After climbing out of Cedar Canyon Road, Black Canyon Road reaches the plateau of Round Valley
A windmill to my right sits in land that is probably still used for cattle grazing. - Cedar Canyon Road's famous "pavement ends" sign
This sign signifies that I'm leaving pavement for a week and entering a Mojave National Preserve heartland area. I'm at about 4250 feet elevation and the hot Kelso Valley is well behind me now. - Cedar Canyon Road dips down into Cedar Wash for a couple of miles
I've seen only a couple of cars on this road, so it's weird to see several all at once. They appear to be part of a group. It's Monday, the end of a long Memorial Day weekend, so there are people leaving Mojave National Preserve who work tomorrow. - The climb up Cedar Canyon Road into the Mid Hills starts out well
Behind me here at about 3800 feet, the old Mojave Road is clearly visible winding up toward Marl Springs in the Marl Mountains. - I pull in at the road to Chicken Water Spring and try my cell phone; it works here as hoped
I call in to change my outgoing message, so that callers know I'm alive and well somewhere out here. Chicken Water Spring was a possible destination, but I've decided to camp at cooler, higher Mid Hills campground and hike down later instead. The gentle curve of the landscape in the background is Cima Dome, which can be seen from many locations in Mojave National Preserve, but not while on it. - Mojave Road and Marl Mountains in the background, I try my cell phone here, but there's no reception
In the past, I've managed to make calls a bit further up Cedar Canyon Road, so I'll try again when I get up there. - While at Cedar Canyon Road junction, I notice an indecisive SUV, so I go speak to its driver; maybe he needs directions
He doesn't need directions, he's just wondering if I need help. I'm walking around with my camera, hoping to look like I'm on break, not stranded. Of course, the concern is always appreciated because breakdowns do happen. - Refreshed after my break, I'm ready to start the ride up Cedar Canyon Road when a freight train passes by
I enjoy the spectacle while the road is blocked by the passing train for a few minutes. - Cedar Canyon Road junction, another much-needed break, at 3725 feet on Kelso-Cima Road
Another Clif bar and more hot water descends into my gullet. It's still in the 80s here, and I've completed the 14-mile climb up Kelso-Cima Road. I'll start up Cedar Canyon Road toward the Mid Hills in a few minutes, after I stop sweating (yeah, right). - Information plaque on Mojave Road marker at junction of Cedar Canyon Road and Kelso-Cima Road
The old historic Mojave Road is today mostly a four-wheel drive track. Joe travelled most of the Mojave Road by bicycle a couple of years back; awesome trip! - Kelso-Cima Road isn't too busy, but traffic is fast and there's no paved shoulder, so cars have to change lanes to pass me
An oncoming motorcyclist and I wave to each other as fellow two-wheeled brethern often do in the desert. I don't "get" intentionally loud motorcycles, but I share with the rest of them a certain minimalist outdoorsiness, since we can't carry all our household comforts on the back of our bikes, motorized or not. - Datura flowers along Kelso-Cima Road
I keep saying that I will plant one of these poisonous (nightshade family) drought-tolerant plants in my garden in San José, but haven't done so yet. - Globe Mine Road; I camped three nights up this road on my 2008 trip
I camped near the end of the middle fork of Globe Mine Road, but the north fork leads much higher up into the majestic Providence Mountains; added to my list of possible future trip destinations. - I pedal slowly upward and take a Clif-bar-and-water-break about an hour later off Kelso-Cima Road along the train tracks
I think this is the same spot where I've stopped on previous trips. I'm close to the road, but almost invisible here, so cars don't see me and don't stop to ask if I need emergency assistance. Straight ahead in the background are the Marl Mountains, and Marl Spring, which I visited in 2006. Just like the last time I was here, a yellowjacket wasp discovers me and buzzes around faithfully, thinking that I might be a food source (I'm not a food source, and I'm ready to kill you if you approach too closely). - The break helps a lot, and I get back on Kelso-Cima Road for the last few miles to Cedar Canyon Road and watch a train pass by
On several previous rides up Kelso-Cima Road, the conductor of a passing train has waved to me. - On several previous rides up Kelso-Cima Road, the conductor of a passing train has waved to me. - I pass my favourite old house in Kelso, the one with the rounded roof and the cabin in the backyard built of railway ties
I'm not stopping here today, but I did stop here during my 2006 Mojave National Preserve trip to take photos of this old house in Kelso. - It's already 84 degrees and I've cooled down as much as I can in Kelso Depot's air conditioning; it's time to ride on!
Before leaving, I fill my water supply for the day (four 1.5-litre bottles and my two-litre Camelbak) from the utility closet in Kelso Depot's basement, thanks to the rangers on duty. - I'm officially on my way to Mid Hills now as I leave Kelso Depot and head north on Kelso-Cima Road
I pass a few abandoned buildings as I begin the gentle 14-mile trek up Kelso-Cima to 3700 feet from here at 2125 feet. I seem to have the usual south tailwind here, which should help. - I take a one-hour break and cool down in Kelso Depot's air conditioning before starting the climb up to Mid Hills campground
This lunch counter used to called "The Beanery" back in the old days and just reopened a couple of months ago. I chat a lot with the owner and drink some of his excellent ice-cold homemade tea, and a couple of cans of Coke for the caffeine buzz that I'll need to make it up to Mid Hills in today's heat. Oh, and two bags of potato chips too for some extra salt. - Downstairs in Kelso Depot is a model that shows how Kelso was back in the 1940s
I meant to take a photo of this when I was here yesterday, but somehow forgot to do so. Heat-induced senility. - Also downstairs at Kelso Depot is a gallery featuring work from a new artist-in-residence program by photographer Bob Killen
Really nice work, dramatic, and shows a strong personal vision, despite but the slick commercial edge. I chatted briefly with one of the people who organizes this art-in-residence program back in the Wills Fargo Motel parking lot in Baker. The program is a great idea. - Next to Kelso Depot is an old metal structure that was formerly used as Kelso's jail!
It's a bit more like a cage for a big wild animal, but maybe that's intended (and appropriate). - Dead tree along Cornfield Spring Road near Kelso Depot, with Kelso Dunes in the background
This tree probably died decades ago. Since no trees grow naturally in this area without supplementary water, this must be a relic of an old homestead or some other installation. - My tires hiss gently as I ride through the sand at the bottom of Cornfield Road toward Kelso Depot
Ahead of me are my bicycle tracks from yesterday and the day before. - Just before Kelso Depot and the train tracks, I cross Kelso's back street where sit a few inhabited houses
The Mid Hills, my destination today, lie straight ahead in the distance. The two tiny visible peaks are probably the Eagle Rocks formation near the Mid Hills campground. - Looking behind me up Cornfield Spring Road toward Providence Mountains as I ride down the rough road to Kelso Depot
I still want to check out Cornfield Spring, maybe next year... Right now I just want to escape the valley heat and am looking forward to reaching Mid Hills campground later today, 3400 feet higher. - I pass an ant hill on Cornfield Spring Road
I always try not to camp too close to these, but I did have a few ants crawling around in my tent yesterday despite my efforts. - By 9h, the contents of my campsite on Cornfield Spring Road has been decisively packed into my bloated saddlebags
I've eaten my usual dry camp breakfast with hot tea and am pretty much ready to leave. One final glance around to make sure that I'm not leaving anything here... - I start the two-mile trek down Cornfield Spring Road toward Kelso Depot
The small rocks on Cornfield Spring Road make for a rough ride. My bike has decent front suspension, but with the heavy load of food and supplies that I'm carrying, I prefer to walk the 10-bike slowly down some of the gentle downhill here. - I'm irreversibly awake and sweating as soon the hot sun rises around 6h; by 7h, I'm outside taking a "dry shower"
This morning's luxury is that I have extra water to splurge on non-essentials like rinsing yesterday's salt, sweat and sunscreen off my face and arms. The gravelly earth has almost cooled down from yesterday; it holds heat, holds cold. I'll be passing Kelso Depot in a couple of hours, where I will refill my water supply. - Sunset at Kelso also means removing the tent's outer flap to let the hottest air escape through the screen
The sun, almost burned out for the day, glows beautifully now. Heat wafts out of my tent, rising from the hot rocks of the desert floor beneath it, replacing the sun as a heat source, for a while at least. Everything inside the tent is so hot! - Heat does kill the appetite, but a good meal after exertion in the heat is still satisfying, if taken slowly
Gotta keep the calories coming in. Tonight's add-boiling-water-to-bag meal is Mountain House Teriyaki Beef with Rice. Excellent, and even a tad spicy. - After dark, the wind picks up a little; it's a beautiful warm evening and the stars are bright
The temperature has dropped to 87 degrees and I almost feel energized. I'm rather invisible over here in the dark, but I can hear the occasional rumble of a car a mile or two away on Kelbaker Road driving over the cattle guard. - My air-conditioning festival melts away when I refill my water supply at Kelso Depot and begin the ride back to camp
Staff at Kelso Depot always lets me refill my water from the basement utility closet since there's no public water tap outside. I was going to use the new garden hose outside instead, but apparently somebody broke it last night after I used it. Strange... it worked just fine when I used it. One of the rangers at the Kelso Depot front desk asks me if actually rode my bike on Cornfield Spring Road. I laugh and tell her that I have to hike the bike more often than not. - In addition to the four now-full 1.5-litre water bottles in my backpack, my 10-litre black water bag is mostly full now too
It's 95 degrees now, so it's no wonder that this short two-mile bike-hike with a water load feels heavy. It's only day two, so I haven't acclimated to the heat yet. The air conditioning on my skin at Kelso Depot a half-hour ago was a mirage. - Back at the tent, I decide to rest silently for a while and enjoy the mind-and-body debilitating drug that is the heat
I consider trying the walk up to Cornfield Spring again; I definitely have enough water now and I have plenty of time. But I simply don't feel like moving any body parts right now. I peel the tent flap back on the shady side for some air flow. I would prefer to open up the tent screen doors too for more air, but a bee or a wasp keeps coming around to check me out. - Sunset finally approaches like I knew it eventually would; I've been imagining its arrival from inside my tent for a while now
It's still 93 degrees, and hotter than that in the tent. With the dimming of the hot sun blows a light breeze, so it's time to step outside and get as much less-hot air on my skin as possible. I stand and stretch. And stretch. - Like the Providence Mountains behind me, I stretch, and I stretch, upward and outward, the cool 90-degree air enveloping us all
The light breeze and lack of direct sun refresh me. But I'm still exhausted from today's heat, from yesterday's heat, from riding too much yesterday, from not riding enough today, and from drinking too much hot water. - From Kelso Depot, view northeast up Kelso-Cima Road from the door at the end of the second-floor corridor
The Mid Hills, my destination tomorrow, are straight ahead in the distance. The small building to the left is the old post office, which was apparently an old market before that, complete with a covered porch out front, since removed. - Kelso Depot baggage office, from staff's view
Customers would stand on the other side of the wicket. - Kelso Depot, second storey: the real reason I'm here today (besides the air conditioning)
Most of the small rooms off the long corridor were sleeping rooms for staff. I'm most interested in the two small rooms that are now used as a library on the Mojave Desert theme. - I plant myself in the sitting area of the little library and go about browsing the books and maps
It's not a huge collection, but all the library materials here are relevant. I spend about an hour and half with my head in the books, enjoying the air conditioning all the while. - A couple of the small sleeping rooms are furnished in the simple style of the period
I wonder if this was a desirable room. Being on the corner of the building, this room would get better air circulation than most with the windows open on a cool evening after a hot desert day. - So, what in the desert is worth surrounding with barbed wire like this?
The answer is probably easy... - On the way back to my tent, I notice a very distinct animal trail running across the fan
I didn't see any big animals here last night, but they're presumably in the environs. This is too narrow to be human hiking trail. - I fetch my bike at the tent and ride the almost two miles down to Kelso Depot
At the rate that I'm drinking, I'll run out of water tonight if I don't get a refill somewhere. I failed to reach Cornfield Spring this morning, and it's around 90 degrees now, so the air-conditioned comfort of Kelso Depot beckons me. The road is so rough in some places that I get off and walk the bike, even though I'm headed slightly downhill. - Close to Kelso Depot, I notice that Cornfield Spring Road crosses an old washed-out paved road
I didn't notice this on the way up to my campsite. Maybe this was one of the old streets in Kelso from the 1940s when 2000 people lived here, or perhaps an old alignment of Kelso-Cima Road. - Approaching Kelso Depot, and air conditioning!
Air conditioning on a camping trip? That's not a wilderness experience! I will learn later that a weather station here at Kelso is recording 91 degrees right now. - I suck back a glass of cold iced tea at the just-opened first-floor lunch counter, then go exploring Kelso Depot's many rooms
I've been in here before (it was restored as a visitor centre in 2005), but usually, I just walk through quickly because I'm in the middle of a bike ride when passing through. Today I'll take my time. As for bighorn sheep, depicted in this first-floor exhibit, they aren't often seen. I was thrilled during my 2006 Mojave National Preserve trip to see a few, albeit from quite a distance, on a hillside near Marl Spring. - Several of the Kelso Depot exhibits introduce visitors to various distinct areas of Mojave National Preserve
This one focuses on the rocky Mid Hills area, where I will go tomorrow to escape the heat down here in the Kelso Valley (Mid Hills' elevation is over 3000 feet higher than Kelso). - Old Kelso Depot office space
Furnished with period materials, you can't actually enter this room, but the large window between rooms makes it easy to view. - Now that I'm back at my tent, one of the things I want to see is that fenced-off structure a quarter-mile in front of me
When I studied Google Earth images prior to this trip, I concluded that this must be an old corral. However, it looks like something quite different now that I'm camping nearby. - Near the structure are many old cans strewn about
This can top (or is it a bottom?) indicates "regular grind," so I presume that means coffee. - Peering through the wire, I see a large, dry concrete reservoir
Though dry today, this would have held a lot of water. I've heard that this reservoir supplied the town of Kelso with water and perhaps the passing steam-engine trains as well. In this dry country, it would have made a great swimming hole too! - On the approach, this thing looks like an abandoned skating rink surrounded by barbed wire
It's definitely not a corral, which wouldn't have raised earthen walls around it like this. - I pass again through the stand of desert willows on the way back to the tent
It's amazing that some plants can grow in gravel! - As I approach the tent, I'm overcome by a feeling of disappointment due to not having reached Cornfield Spring
Sure, I hiked five miles in the heat, but Cornfield Spring is just too close to be a destination that I couldn't reach. Maybe I can try again later today... - I reach inside my tent to get some water and notice yesterday's heavily salt-crusted t-shirt
I'm always intrigued by salt stains since they exude from the body without us noticing their accumulation. Merino-wool t-shirts, like this one by Smartwool, are the best for hot weather activities! It's amazing that it doesn't smell a lot worse. - A wasp, or some kind of big fly, is sitting outside my tent, obviously attracted to something
With my severe allergy to yellowjackets and hornets, I take great care to avoid potentially stinging insects. This guy might be benign to me, like honey bees are, but I don't know what he is... - As I hike up Cornfield Spring Road, I come across this collection of old pipes
My understanding is that Cornfield Spring once provided water to Kelso, so these pipes are probably a remnant from that time. - I keep hiking up Cornfield Spring Road and realize that I'm almost out of water already; not good on a hot day like this
I've hiked 2.5 miles and it's already well into the 80s. I should have returned to my tent for more water before hiking this far. I know better! Cornfield Spring is only 3/4 mile away, but I should turn back because it may not have water anyway. - Kelso Dunes paint a scenic backdrop for this moment of indecision
I don't want to turn back when I'm so close to Cornfield Spring. But I'm spooked by the prospect of running dry on a hot day, even briefly; I'm drinking a lot. With water, I could also walk two miles toward Kelso Dunes to check out the old Rex Mine site. - Break time! A Clif bar, and more water, which is already rather warm
I'm in disbelief that I screwed up this short hike! If the sun weren't so hot and I weren't sweating so much, I would just continue to Cornfield Spring. I would also continue if I knew that the spring has a bit of water for me, but I don't know that. - Desert-horned-lizard break! Quite different from my Clif-bar-and-water break a few minutes ago
I've just resigned myself to turn back and start walking back toward my tent when this lizard crossing the old road stops and shows off for me. Very cool. - The 2.5-mile hike back to the tent is pleasant, and I'm enjoying the gentle downhill as I sweat under the hot sun
Off to my right, a wash is carved into the desert by the water it receives during rain, hence the greenery growing in it. - Residual flowers on a cactus; these may become cactus pears soon
These fading flowers stand out amid the dearth of other desert flowers so late in the spring. - I make a small pot of tea, wondering if it will be enough to jumpstart my day; I would prefer some strong coffee, but have none
I still can't believe that the Starbuck's in Baker has closed after being open for only a year or two. I do like tea, but I like espresso more. - It's a hot morning, probably in the high 70s; I mount the rain cover on the sunny side of the tent to get some shade
I stay inside the tent, sheltered from the sun's rays, even though it's hotter inside. I eat a typical camping breakfast of dry granola, dried fruit, tamari almonds, hot tea, water, and an instant electrolyte-replacer drink. My hot tea makes me sweat profusely. - Time to dig my first cat hole of the trip
Nothing like a nice view down to Kelso while doing it! - I pack my backpack and start walking up the road toward Cornfield Spring
I'm not carrying much water since there's a patch of greenery just up the road, which most likely has water coming down from Cornfield Spring. - Hmm... no water here at all, just a nice patch of desert willows (chilopsis linearis)
Crap! I guess I'll have to walk up to Cornfield Spring itself at the base of the Providence Mountains ahead. This gravelly wash must get wet during water events, or all these desert willows wouldn't be here scented the air sweetly. - Chilopsis linearis flowers in close-up
Not many flowers bloom this late in the spring at the lower elevations, but these are still putting on a show for the hummingbirds. I planted one of these trees in my garden in San José, where it's doing fine in clay soil with very little water. - Mojave National Preserve wake-up call near Kelso Depot: morning sunshine
I thought I died peacefully when I dozed off last night, exhausted. But I'm reminded that I'm still alive when sun shines on my tent shortly after sunrise around 5h30. I manage to sleep in until 7h, but wake up with the feeling of having a hangover. It's great to wake up in this beautiful emptiness for the first time in a bit over a year, with a view of the nearby Kelso Dunes. - Cornfield Spring Road becomes a track of small rocks plowed out of the alluvial fan
I can't ride this surface at all and have resorted to hiking the 10-ton bike. I take a lot of 30-second breaks. Perhaps the road will improve somewhere ahead, but desert back roads like this typically deteriorate progressively as they slowly approach their end. - I'm still a couple of miles away from Cornfield Spring when I notice a small clearing that might make a good campsite
I'm exhausted and not thrilled by the idea of hiking the 10-ton bike a couple more miles. The opening here in the creosote bush scrub is the perfect size for a campsite, so I stop here for the night. I can walk up to the spring tomorrow. - My Cornfield Spring Road campsite is born in time for me to enjoy the colourful end-of-day glow of the desert sunset
When I dismantle the 10-ton bike and open the saddlebags to retrieve my tent, my camping gear puffs heat at me. The rocky desert floor is exuding heat too, warming my tent from underneath, releasing today's sunshine just like my skin. - The beauty and serenity of a desert sunset tends to recompense for any hardships incurred during the day's work
It must still be 80 degrees F, so I won't be putting the outer shell on the tent tonight. I'm hoping that enough heat will eventually dissipate through the screen of the tent's roof for it to cool down after midnight. Supper is add-boiling-water-to-bag Mountain House Sweet and Sour Pork with Rice. Tasty as always, but I have to eat slowly because I've been a bit nauseous off and on today from the heat and exertion. I probably shouldn't be eating anything hot right now. Kelso is only two miles down the road, and I can see the lights of town, and even hear the barking of someone's dog and occasional music from the quiet of my campsite. It feels comfortable here, yet remote, with no sign of people coming here often, probably due to the bad road. Occasional evening winds provide noise and touch me as they filter through my tent screens, but they bring no coolness. A loud trilling, gurgling sound quite near my tent plays non-stop for several minutes at dusk; I wonder if it is a bird or a reptile. I've hardly seen any flies this evening. However, a few moths come out late to flit against my tent, foiled in their aspirations of getting closer to the flashlight lantern hanging inside my tent from the roof. As is often the case on the first day of one of my trips, I'm completely exhausted. I've not recovered yet from the heat exhaustion earlier today and have a few minor cramps in my legs and arms. The steering on my bicycle, even though I ride it daily, isn't usually weighted down with saddlebags. I want to write an entry in my journal about today's events, but am too tired to focus or think. I'm so sleepy that I feel like I will die comfortably rather than just fall asleep tonight. But fall asleep I do, on my sleeping bag, naked, but not in it due to the heat. I am reminded that I'm actually still alive when I wake up for a moment around 3h to crawl into the sleeping bag due to some cooler air. I'm reminded again that I'm still alive as soon as some sun shines on my tent after sunrise. - I glance back at Kelso Depot as I start riding up the sandy road to Cornfield Spring
I haven't been up this road before, and it's the only part of today's ride that is new to me, so it's a bit exciting, despite the heat and fatigue. I don't know if this road will be rideable. - The road to Cornfield Spring gets a bit rougher
The sand at the beginning of the road disappeared and has been replaced by gravel. The road is slightly uphill and I can still ride it sometimes on the 10-ton bike, except when I lose traction due to loose gravel (and because I'm tired). - Still heading downhill into the Kelso Valley, now approaching the town of Kelso, that ribbon of buildings
The strong south wind blowing against me feels cool, even though I'm still hot. But I'm headed downhill, so everything feels good after an afternoon of borderline heat exhaustion. - Desert willows bloom and attract hummingbirds outside the Kelso Depot bathroom building
I use the facilities here and rinse the sticky mixture of sweat, salt and sunscreen that coats my face. - While lingering in the shade of the Kelso Depot waiting platform, I chat with a couple on their first visit to the Preserve
I take a few keepsake photos of them (on their camera) and talk briefly about Kelso Depot's former role as housing for crew and as a water stop. People always wonder why such a huge train station would be located in such an empty location. - Kelso Depot Visitor Centre, Mojave National Preserve, former 1920s train station restored in 2005
My fun descent ends at the bottom of the Kelso Valley a bit after 17h30. I take a half hour break here and refill my water bottles from a hose left outside on the lawn and soak my head with the cool water. I consumed almost seven litres of water on the way here! Usually I refill my water from the utility closet in the basement of the Kelso Depot building, but the visitor centre closed at 17h. I'm lucky that they've left the hose out for me because filling my water bottles from the tiny sinks in the 24-hour bathroom building would be quite tedious. Since this is a dry desert park and people occasionally need water, an outdoor water tap would be a nice addition at this location. - I look across the tracks and beyond the handful of houses that are Kelso toward Cornfield Spring, my destination
Cornfield Spring is somewhere at the base of the Providence Mountains over there. I'm still hot and tired, and it's certainly warmer down here in the valley than it was up on the Kelbaker Road summit. I've been drinking more water and I ate another Clif bar since arriving at Kelso Depot, so I'm as ready as I can be to take on the final few miles of today's ride. - The final four miles of the normally easy climb to the Kelbaker Road summit at the power lines have never been so challenging
I'm almost there. The summit of 3700 feet is just past the power lines. I'm still overheating, but it's slightly cooler up here at this elevation. I'm powered more by adrenalin than by real energy at this point, but at least my heat exhaustion isn't getting any worse. - Kelbaker Road summit at 3700 feet elevation; I'm there, finally!
It will be downhill for the next 12 miles to Kelso after riding over this lump, and I can't wait to have the hot breeze blowing against me. - The 12-mile gradual descent to Kelso is fun, but I usually have a headwind that slows me down considerably, like I do today
The hot wind blowing against me feels really good as I stare at the Providence Mountains in the distance, so I don't mind that I have to pedal a bit to keep my speed up while I coast downward. A headwind coming out of the south is common on this road.