Home 7119
- Layers
- Packed up, the 10-ton bike and I leave Pacheco Camp and stop near the Pacheco Spring tub on the way out
A couple of deer were drinking at the spring tub by this sign earlier this morning. I'm looking forward to Paradise Lake later today. I stopped there briefly for the first time during last year's Henry Coe trip and thought that it would make a good base for a future bikepacking trip. - I slowly ride along Crucero Road toward Broadwell Dry Lake, a slight downhill
I stocked up on water (4 1.5-litre bottles) before leaving "town," so my load is heavier now. I'll cross Broadwell Dry Lake and camp on the other side of the Bristol Mountains straight ahead. - After seven miles, I arrive at the stop sign: I arrive at Searchlight, Nevada, population 576
Oh, look, a pedestrian! I haven't spoken to anybody since leaving Nipton two days ago. I ride down Hwy 95 through the middle of town to see what's here. This only takes a few minutes. - I encounter a nice patch of Mojave asters on the way down into the valley below Castle Peaks
I'm a little late this year: many of the Mojave asters I've been seeing are near the end of their flowering season, unlike this one. - After crossing the valley, Gold Valley Road comes to an end and I join the larger Black Canyon Road
There's even a bit of pavement here, briefly, on Black Canyon Road, before I turn in on the short dirt road to the Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre. - The six-mile ride down the Cima Road hill to the Cima Store, 800 feet below, is a blast
On the way down, I pass a small group of police and rangers investigating a car wreck whose driver is nowhere to be found. To my surprise, I have a significant headwind pushing against me as I ride down the hill (there was hardly any wind at all earlier). The views of the Mid Hills straight ahead in the distance make me happy. - I take my break at the E Clampus Vitus Mojave Road marker at the junction of Cedar Canyon Road and Kelso-Cima Road
I eat an energy bar and slug back some water. The dirt road behind the E Clampus Vitus marker is the old Mojave Road, one of the early wagon roads across the Mojave Desert. I'll ride a stretch of that road toward the end of this trip. - A couple of big rigs pass me as we all descend Highway 127 into the Tecopa Basin together
I should have counted how many big rigs have passed me today; probably a dozen or two. - Here it is: Kelbaker Road, Mojave National Preserve, approximately 3100 feet elevation; pavement again, I'm so excited
I'll make a right-turn here and start the ride to Kelso Depot. Straight ahead on the other side of Kelbaker Road is Aiken Mine Road, a 20-mile-long dirt track that I rode a few months ago for the first time. - As the sun begins to rise, the Clark Mountain Range catches a nice pink light
Since I'm not much of a morning person, I don't get to see sunrise all that often. It's a treat, despite my cold toes as I pedal onward toward Primm. And that industrial solar installation over there, bleh... - On the way down to Broadwell Dry Lake, I stop briefly at the junction of a powerline road that leads into the Bristol Mountains
I don't recall this nice BLM "Heart of the Mojave" sign when I rode down this way last year. I'd like to ride up that road again and explore more, like I did last year. - The next marked point on my hike today will be McCullough Mountains unnamed peak 6425, the high point just ahead
I'm at about 6375 feet elevation now, and will drop down 50 feet just ahead. After that, it's only a climb of another 100 feet or so, vertically. - The cottontail rabbit hears me and looks over my way before darting away
I see quite a few cottontails out here, but they're usually gone before I have a chance to grab my camera. - To my surprise, out here in the middle of nowhere in the New York Mountains, I come across a rock cairn
After studying my maps a few minutes ago, I concluded this would be the easiest route over the trail-less ridge. I guess the others who came here before me would concur with that! - A collapsed structure at the mine site at the end of the middle fork of Globe Mine Road
This must have made a lot of noise when it fell over. - Almost at Coyote Springs!
I'll take the right fork here, which is not on most maps and turns back at a campsite 1/4 mile away. The real Coyote Springs, which is on most maps, is actually a little further down the road at the next right fork. - Outside the tunnel entrance on the flat area composed of tailings sits a big tank of some kind
The site is high enough to have views over the ridgetops beyond Devil's Playground Wash with Providence Mountains in the background. - Cottonwood Spring is aptly named since this cottonwood tree lives here
This tree is dumping some of its fluff and pollen into the air, which probably explains why I just had a sneezing fit (I'm allergic to cottonwood trees, which I hate to admit because I like them). - An old art-deco building in Mojave, California
It houses a thrift store. - I continue climbing Highway 190, looking for signs of Emigrant Campground somewhere on the fan
I'm hoping that those specks on the centre-right are signs of the campground. It turns out that the ride today up to Emigrant Campground is unexpectedly similar in distance and elevation gain to my slow ride up from Death Valley to Hell's Gate on the way to Monarch Canyon a few days ago. I'm even getting some of that same pain in my right knee on the way up this grade. This is my first real work-out of the trip during such high temperatures (mid-90s). - Poison oak, Henry Coe State Park
- The short (1/3-mile-long) road to Board Spring narrows.
The short (1/3-mile-long) road to Board Spring narrows and is fairly grown in with grasses and sagebrush in places. - Ortlieb waterproof bicycle saddlebags make a great washing machine or ice bucket!
- Full belly, I leave the Ludlow Café and head down the nearby dirt road toward Kelso Dunes Wilderness
Ludlow only has about 20 residents, so you're always on the outskirts of town here. The Ludlow ghost town on the other side of the train tracks is interesting, but it's not on my agenda today. - OK, it's time; I pack up the 10-ton bike and leave the Route 66 Motel—I'll be in sleeping in a tent tonight; I can't wait
It's always hard getting started, and it takes a day or three to get used to the weight of all my gear on the bike. Later today, I'll increase the weight by adding water, so heavy. - This bushy desert oak shrub in Saddle Horse Canyon seems to have grown back despite being burned in the 2005 brush fires
Charred branches stick out through the fresh foliage. - My camera and I catch some nice sunset colours on the way back to my tent; I arrive around 20h15
A really windy evening; silence alternates with strong wind gusts that hit my tent hard. Supper around 22h is Natural High Honey Lime Chicken with a bit of wild rice, which is tasty and slightly tart, but a bit on the light side (only 400 calories when I eat "both" portions [it supposedly serves two], not quite enough for a hungry hiker). Silence arrives suddenly around 1h and then I fall asleep. A beautiful day finally ends. - The outhouse here at Tough Nut Mine is a concrete structure
This is more substantial than usual for an old outhouse building. - The bugs seem especially fond of these plants
My campsite for the night is just down the road, so I'm hoping that these bugs haven't claimed it. Of course, it's not just bugs I need to worry about; other humans may also have claimed my campsite. It's Saturday night, when Preserve visitation is at its peak, and this site is fairly close to a main road. - I impress myself and cobble a vertical brace for the rack from two spare support bars that I've been carrying around for ages
Maybe my trip hasn't ended just yet! I'm not sure that these two bars screwed together will hold the rack in place, but my first impression is that it works. Now, should I continue on to Keystone Canyon some seven miles further, or turn back while the bike is still functional? The vertical silver bars constitute my repair; the horizontal silver bar attached to the brakes is part of the normal Old Man Mountain rack installation on mountain bikes. I never thought I'd use these two spare rack-support bars, and certainly not for this unintended purpose. - Before leaving the Bun Boy for my Greyhound bus, I take a final photo out my patio door across I-15 to Mojave National Preserve
I slept really well last night in my cell at the motel. I know they're probably supposed to be decorative, but those two palm trees behind the Bun Boy Motel aren't as alluring to me as what's on the other side of the freeway. Maybe I should come back here again some day... - An old truck near the Amargosa River
It looks like it's getting buried by the deposits of annual flood waters. - Farther into the canyon on China Ranch Road
The canyon walls have gotten higher. Dramatic! - I sit down on The Racetrack playa, like I might do at any other beach
This is as nice as any beach I've ever sat on, despite the absence of water here. No other cars have arrived at The Racetrack since we got here, so it is silent here in this valley, except for the sound of us walking. - "Shoe tree" on Highway 127 across from Saratoga Springs Road
It needs to have more shoes hanging off it to be truly effective!!! Unfortunately, I have nothing today that I can contribute to this important collective work of art. - There's still some water in this end of Grimshaw Dry Lake
It's always odd to see occasional water in an area as dry as the Mojave Desert. - Hey, sunset is spinning its wheels faster than I'm spinning mine, and I haven't quite reached Kelbaker Road yet
I was hoping to reach the Mojave National Preserve's Kelso Depot visitor centre before it closes at 17h, but I guess that won't happen. - With the setting sun in my eyes, I ride more quickly than usual down Kelso Dunes Road because the surface has just been graded
I've never seen Kelso Dunes Road so smooth; it's usually quite washboarded with a bit of surface sand. It is slightly downhill, but due to the bad surface, I never come close to reaching 20 miles per hour like today. - A nicely placed picnic table by a juniper tree makes for a semi-shady brunch at Mid Hills Campground
I add boiling water to a bag of Mountain House New Orleans Rice with Shrimp and Ham (tasty). Bag says it serves two, but it only serves one of me. I spend the afternoon relaxing, catching up with writing notes in my journal and practicing some language lessons that I brought along. - Gold Valley Road is rutted and downhill, essentially a perfect bicycle trail with no traffic
It's not very steep, but there are a few navigational challenges due to the worn-out nature of the old road. I've already dropped 400 feet elevation since passing the summit a mile ago. - Finally, Gold Valley Road dips down into Gold Valley itself
This downhill is a mountain-biker's dream (in the downhill direction). Not quite single-track, but that's unimportant. There are plenty of small obstacles to keep you awake, and great mountain views. - It's interesting to find so many of these purple flowers on just this one hillside in the New York Mountains
I haven't seen these blue/purple flowers elsewhere in the area today, at least not yet. - Red cactus flower buds near my tent
I've seen quite a few cactus flowers already on this trip, but these tight red buds have a glossiness that makes them look like plastic. I'm stopping to see if maybe they are just some kind of foreign matter that got stuck to the plant. - These blue flowers are abundant wherever rock support walls exist along the old roadbed
These are probably the same kind of phacelia flowers that I saw earlier. - Reddish-pinkish-orange Indian paintbrush decorates the old roadbed here and there
The color of this plant always seems so intense in this largely green, brown and grey high-desert landscape. - A shaft at the mine site at the end of the middle fork of Globe Mine Road
I'm not getting too close to this one. That big wire running out of the hole connects to the boulder in the previous photo. - I return to the 10-ton bike in the sand trap on the old Cima Road
It has been fun walking around the residential corner of the Death Valley Mine property and I wish I had time to explore the old mining area next door. However, I want to make it to the Nipton General Store some 30 miles away before it closes at 18h. - The final seven miles to Nipton crosses the dusty bottom of Ivanpah Valley
Nipton is the blotch of buildings in the distance at the left. - A little higher up on Gold Valley Road
... my tent is now barely visible in the distance. - Getting closer to the bottom of Death Valley
I'm probably about 1000 feet above the valley at this point. - Further down Daylight Pass Road, heading toward Death Valley
Somewhere around Hell's Gate around 2000 feet elevation. - Back in the wash of Jackass Canyon: more sand and gravel ahead!
It's slow work travelling here, and I keep telling myself that I'm getting better at it. On this stretch of road, it would be easier to backpack than bikepack. - Desert lilies catch the final light of day
- The road drops back down to dry Red Creek
I'm still a half-mile or so from Hatch Spring. - I sit on McCullough Mountains Peak 6557 for a good 15 minutes and enjoy the views
My cell phone works up here, so I send a couple of text messages and turn the phone off. I've never seen Ivanpah Dry Lake from this viewpoint before. With each new Mojave Desert hike, my visual understanding of the area increases. - A few rather large Chia sages grow in this Castle Peaks wash
This part of the wash is quite open, with fewer catclaw acacia bushes to watch out for: easy hiking. - I notice a natural arch in the Castle Peaks pinnacles as I start my way down the hill
The arch looks big enough that I might be able to climb up there and crawl through it, but I'm fixated on my downhill hike right now. - I pass a budding milkweed in Saddle Horse Canyon
... and a few orange Desert-mallow flowers. - There's my tent, I'm back home and ready to settle in for the evening
It has been a long and enjoyable day in the desert, out hiking for a bit over six hours. I consumed all of the 3.5 litres of water that I brought with me and could have drank more (maybe I should have tried to filter some water out of that old well after all). I also ate three Clif bars. After dark, I make another instant hiker meal, which is Backpacker's Pantry Thai Satay Beef. I hadn't tried this one before, so I'm skeptical about the little pouches of salted peanut butter (I usually only like unsalted) that need to be mixed separately with the spices. It makes a very flavourful rice-based meal that is a bit heavier in the saddlebags and more expensive than many others. As soon as the sun goes down, the temperature drops a bit and within an hour it's time to put on a sweater. The beautiful silence is occasionally decorated by gusts of wind forcing my tent to flap its wings, or the rumble of a train labouring up Kelso-Cima Road three miles down the hill. Late in the evening, it can't be warmer than 60 degrees, and the moon rises. I step outside in the silence under the influence of a few swigs of brandy to ponder it for a few minutes before going to bed. Bliss. - Continuing my hike across the fan, I walk past a couple of hills and arrive in the "valley" where I'm camped
I'm again passing through that area which has lots of low grass, but fewer creosote bushes than usual. - Time for another picture-perfect desert sunset near Globe Mine Road
My third and final night up here off the middle fork of Globe Canyon Road. I'm running a little low on water, so I'm being careful about how much I use this evening. After sunset, I make tonight's meal: Backpacker's Pantry Kung Pao Chicken and Rice. It's OK, but despite the promising name and the slight heat added by the chillies, this meal is actually rather bland. I'll try to remember to not buy this one again. For dessert, I eat a 3.5-ounce pouch of Trader Joe's buffalo jerky: tasty. I'm thinking I might visit the Coyote Springs area tomorrow on the other side of Kelso Depot, which I originally scheduled for the end of the trip. Something to think about tonight while I write in my journal and browse the photos I took today... - Some assorted old debris and cans are scattered near the wash
This must be where the miners' camp was located and it is marked on my map as "ruins." - Postal boxes inside the old post office at Cima, California, Mojave National Preserve
Above the postal boxes is a yellowed map of the region served by the Cima post office. - More at the abandoned campground
Concrete slabs for trailers, or whatever. This was a pretty big development. I didn't count the concrete slabs, but I'm guessing there are two dozen, maybe more. I wonder how long (if at all) this place was viable as a business, and when it was operational. - A shower stall in the Aguereberry cabin
A shower stall is really a modern amenity for a place like this. - Tired when I get near the top of Sleeping Beauty road, I walk around in a fog for a while looking for a campsite not by the road
Rain sets in around 21h, about an hour after I set up camp, and lasts a couple of hours. I don't remember this being in today's forecast! However, the pitter-patter is soothing on my tent roof, and it keeps excessive numbers of tourists away. - I'm intrigued by this sign for Ashwell Road, since there's not much of a road visible here
However, there is a lot of private property in this area, so perhaps this trail leads to one of those tracts. - There's enough water at this spot in Butcher Knife Canyon for a small pool to form
This is the same rocky area where I saw a rattlesnake on my 2008 Mojave National Preserve trip. - As I hike downhill toward home, I see that some of the smog haze has blown into Pinto Valley as well
... but not nearly as much as what I saw looking down into Ivanpah Valley from the Cliff Canyon Springs Peaks a while ago. - I'll make a guess that Bolder Spring is here to the left of those bones somewhere
Of course, it doesn't matter much today where the spring is if it's dry... However, for the sake of closure, I do need to assign a location to it. This is one of the greener spots around, and there aren't a lot more of those water-indicating grasses past here. - Parts of the road to Coyote Springs are fairly smooth and well-graded
To my surprise, I find myself walking the bike most of the way, even though the road is hardly uphill at all. The sand layer on the road is sometimes just thick enough to create loss of traction. I rode my bike here during my Xmas 2007 Mojave National Preserve trip, and didn't have too much of a problem. I wrote in my travelogue that, "The sand on this road is well-packed and easy to ride, except in soft spots where drainages cross the road." But that was on a day ride without the extra weight of all my gear, and that can make all the difference. That's not what I'd write today. - Walking along the Amargosa River trail
There's nobody around but me. - Inside the men's "cool pool" at Tecopa Hot Springs campground
I'm the only one heading for the "cool pool" right now (or else I wouldn't be taking this photo). - The rain clouds are moving around quickly
The view of the mountains ahead keeps changing as the clouds roll by. The rain is still light enough and warm enough that I haven't put my raincoat on yet, but I wonder if I will need to shortly. - Looking back down to Death Valley from around 1000 feet elevation, near Keane Wonder Mine
I've just reassured myself that I am indeed slowly rising out of Death Valley. My camp site on Gold Valley Road a few nights ago was somewhere up high in those distant mountains in the centre-left of the photo. - A plaque on the side of the Stovepipe Wells general store
It commemorates the original "Bungalette City" that was built here. - Once beyond the bushwhacking zone, I note that some of the brush looks greener than the rest
This slightly verdant area indicates the presence of a little stream running through it, which seems to exude from under all those reeds. Indeed, I hear a trickle of water amid the silence and locate it. There didn't seem to be much water on the ground around the spring that I identified, so it makes me wonder if perhaps there is a second spring further on under the reeds. - The constant incline isn't all that steep
Still, I'm wilting in the 100-degree heat with no shade, so I walk the bike up a few stretches that I would ride in cooler weather. - I don't really want to leave Pacheco Camp, but today is the day that I ride to Paradise Lake to camp there for a few nights
I didn't sleep well last night and kept waking up. I finally got up around 8h30 and began a slow breakfast of strong coffee and the usual granola, tamari almonds and dried apricots. Now I'm packing up begrudgingly to leave Pacheco Camp. I could easily stay here an extra day and do another day hike like I did yesterday, using a different route. But I simply can't squeeze everything into one trip! - I start walking up the trail to the old mine site: I see people over there--amazing
We don't meet, since they're walking in the other direction. I suspect they don't see me. I rarely run into people in the backcountry out here, but this location is an easy walk in from the historic Mojave Road, which is fairly well-traveled. - Beautiful silence: sunset near Mail Spring, another hot day comes to an end
Beautiful silence: sunset near Mail Spring, another hot day comes to an end I make supper after dark, instant Mountain House Rice with Chicken, yum. A pleasant, warm evening, but my drinking water stays warm too, blech. Sometimes I can hear distant passing trains miles way on the Kelso line. I spend some time staring at the thousands of stars in the moonless sky and get to bed around midnight, but don't sleep really well, again. - I leave Wild Horse Canyon Road and head down Gold Valley Road
This is a favorite ride of mine, taken in the north-south direction. - I take a break when I reach the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Centre, which is closed during the hot months except on Saturday
I recharge my cell phone using the outdoor plug and fill up on cool water. I meet a couple from LA, also camping at Mid Hills and we decide to meet later at the campground to chat more (but we never do hook up). - I'm just far enough down the dirt road now to have a panoramic view of the Sleeping Beauty peaks behind me
Gee, I was way up there along that high ridge yesterday afternoon... It's interesting to see how this road looks in daylight since it was dark when I rode up to my campsite two nights ago. - With relatively few wildflowers along Ivanpah Road, this little garden against a New York Mountains backdrop gets my attention
Pink Palmer's penstemon, an orange Desert mallow and a yellow Desert marigold. - A couple of short steep hills on the final stretch on Wild Horse Canyon Road toward Mid Hills campground always get me
It's always at the end of the day when I reach these hills, which is why they are always feel tougher than it seems like they should be. - Before leaving Hole-in-the-Wall, I refill my water bottles
There are always a lot of bees around the water spigot at Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre! - A little further down Butcher Knife Canyon, a green carpet covers the sandy ground
It's going to get greener as I descend further down the canyon. - There's quite a bit of Paperbag bush growing on the burned plain between Butcher Knife Canyon and Cottonwood Spring
Salazaria mexicana, a very cool plant. - Banana yuccas getting ready to flower at the Kelbaker Road summit, Mojave National Preserve
These stubby yuccas are seen often at higher elevations in Mojave National Preserve. - I walk down the shortcut road that I followed last night and arrive again at the junction of the middle fork of Globe Mine Road
This time I'll walk up the old road in the middle of the photo, which I missed last night, instead of in the wash to the left. Judging by the tire tracks heading up the wash, I'm not the only one who mistook the wash for the road. - My Nipton campsite
My campsite is actually an RV site, complete with hookups, but since there are no RVs here right now, I'm camped in a parking spot. Another nice sunny morning with clouds floating around; still cool and windy though. I take the morning lazily, take a much-needed shower and drink several cups of coffee from the Nipton General Store to get going. A chat with Gerry, Nipton's owner, has me convinced to try riding up the Walking Box Ranch Road tomorrow, which I hadn't planned. - Death Valley Mine Road is almost just a trail in places
Death Valley Mine Road has a remote feel to it. Not a great place to get stranded. It's difficult here and there where it crosses a sandy wash, but most of it has enough traction for me to ride it. - The trail on the east side of the Amargosa River heading south away from China Ranch
If you follow this trail for many more miles, you'll eventually arrive at the Dumont Dunes. - The China Ranch bakery and store at the end of China Ranch Road
They grow many varieties of dates and I sample some of them. - Gold Valley Road gets a bit steep as it rises to the top
I would have needed to dismount my bike and drag it up this part last night had I gotten this far. - Riding down the road toward Badwater
I'm not exactly sure where I'll stop, but I don't plan on going all the way to Badwater on my "day off." - My tent and bicycle are here waiting for me at Pacheco Camp
I wonder if anyone passed through this area today while I was out... I haven't seen anyone since yesterday afternoon. - My next break stop: I wait for the sun to stop shining on my tent by sitting in the shade of a nearby oak
Gee, it is really hot and still here, I'm guessing close to 100 degrees. I was expecting this, since it usually is hotter out here in the eastern backcountry of Henry Coe. - It's dry right now, but I can imagine a rush of water being funneled down this drainage during the wet season
I'm still at about 5750 feet elevation, so I have more downhill hiking ahead (the tent is down at about 4915 feet). - I turn around and start my way back down Saddle Horse Canyon, wondering if I shouldn't be turning around so soon
I made the mistake of not wearing long pants on this hike, the consequence being that I'm constantly stopping to pull out grass pieces from my socks that poke into my ankles like little thorns. - An old wooden fence along Black Canyon Road that burned in the 2005 brush fires has been replaced by a wire fence
That's Pinto Mountain in the background. Today's destination, Pinto Valley, is behind that, not all that far away. - More rocks, and even a few old fallen trees, to climb over on the way up the hill above Cabin Springs
No major obstacles yet! - OK, I've finally chosen a ride route for today on the power-line road above Nipton, starting at the Nevada border
I fill my Camelbak and a water bottle at the outdoor sink at the Nipton campground, and away we go. I've ridden a few segments of that power-line road during previous Mojave National Preserve trips, but this segment between Nipton and the Castle Peaks area will be new to me. - Reaching the sign for Cedar Canyon Road after 15 miles: I'm happy and pull over for a break
I usually stop for a short break or two on the way up Kelso-Cima Road before reaching this point, but today I just kept pedaling. Today's tailwind really helped to push me along and keep me from overheating. - An old automobile carcass near the 100-year-old saloon ruins
I walk down to the old car and crawl inside to get some temporary shelter from the blazing sun. The green bushes indicate exactly where the Amargosa River flows. What a contrast with the dry surroundings! - Plush green carpet in my room at the Royal Hawaiian Motel
Nice wrinkles provide additional texture, in case more is needed. - In no time at all, I find myself looking down at the lower part of Red Creek Road where I came from
This is getting exciting. - The old cabin at Pacheco Camp is well-maintained, locked and used by the Park for special events
I heard (or read) somewhere that last year's huge brush fire came very close to here and that firefighters somehow managed to keep the fire from reaching the cabin area. - The next stage of Coit Road is the short drop down to Mississippi Creek; this only takes a few minutes
Coit Road descends 550 feet here over about 1.1 miles. Part of the ensuing climb up the hill on the other side of the Mississippi Creek canyon is visible in the distance to the right. - Now the fun begins, a bit of rough rolling-road mountain biking overlooking Lanfair Valley
The road is just high enough above the valley for views. Quite a few Mojave yuccas in this area (make sure you don't ride into them). - Riding (and walking the 10-ton bike) up the Black Canyon Cut-off Road as the sun goes down
A few desert mallow flowers are blooming. Sometimes there are thousands of these orange flowers here. I like this short-cut road, only .75 miles long, excellent for mountain bikes. - I take a closer look at that regenerated oak in Saddle Horse Canyon
I'm guessing this is a turbinella oak. - A yellow-chested bird watches me begin the hike up the steep hill above Bluejay Mine
The branches of the tree may have burned during the 2005 brush fires here, but they still provide a nice perch. - Well, this is it: Government Holes, Mojave National Preserve
A water tank, a corral, an old cottonwood tree and a history story about a shoot-out here 100 years or so ago. The funny thing is that there's a modern plastic water reservoir hiding inside that metal cistern. - Nice, a little pinyon pine growing on the side of Butcher Knife Canyon
After the brush fires of 2005 killed so many of these around here, we need more of these young ones. - I stumble across a small prospect above Cottonwood Spring, Mojave National Preserve, not marked on my map
Apparently, no valuable ore was discovered here, since there's no mine immediately nearby. - I persevere with my ailing MSR water filter and manage to fill my water bag with clean, tasty water from Bathtub Spring
This big 10-litre MSR water bag is great, but it does impart an unpleasant plastic taste to water left in it for a few days. I'm glad my water filter hasn't completely stopped working (I've brought chlorine tablets in case that happens). - I keep looking back behind me at the saddle that leads down to Cliff Canyon Spring
Maybe vertigo-man here should just enjoy the views and not try hiking down those slopes. The haze out there blowing in from Los Angeles is quite remarkable. - Awesome: a tiny stream in Cottonwood Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
It's not much water, but this is the Mojave Desert at the end of April after all! I'll keep walking upstream and see how much more water exists here. - Old sign on the wilderness-camera box at Cottonwood Spring
This BLM (Bureau of Land Management) sign must be at least 15 years old because National Parks Service took over administration of this area from BLM in the early 1990s when Mojave National Preserve was created. - The path leading toward Salt Creek from the empty parking lot
Salt Creek is not too far around the corner behind the hill. - Leaving Furnace Creek campground and heading north on Highway 190
I'll start my climb out of Death Valley about 10 miles up the highway, on the Beatty Cutoff. - Arrived! I sit here on the Castle Peaks saddle for a good 15 minutes, with pinnacles in front of me, and behind me
I eat an energy bar, take lots of photos, send a few texts and check phone messages (my cell phone works up here, as I thought it might). I'm at about 5475 feet elevation here. - Hey, a fresh bicycle track on the shortcut road, and it isn't mine!
The motorist I spoke to back on Cedar Canyon Road told me he had seen another bicycle earlier, so this must be the route that the bicyclist followed. - As I get closer to Butcher Knife Canyon, I note some piles of mine tailings on the hillside in the distance
The piles appear to be colour-coded. I decide to head up to that area to look closer. - I take in the views of the surrounding hills while the sun goes down and I ponder my situation and exit strategy
I'd like to spend another day hiking and exploring this area, but only two more nights in Mojave National Preserve remain before my trip ends. In case I run into more unforeseen problems, it's best that I begin the 75-mile trek back to Baker tomorrow. This will leave me with more flexibility should my repair not prove to be stable and sufficient. I don't intend to cover all that distance in a day, though I could if needed. After a few miles, I'll be back on smooth pavement again, but I'm really not sure at this point what my bike can and cannot tolerate. - About 1.5 miles before reaching the Cima Store, I pass that power-line road again that crosses Mojave National Preserve
If my bike rack weren't broken, I could shave a few miles off today's ride (though it would probably take longer) by riding this rough road. A stop at remote Marl Springs, which I visited on my 2006 trip, to filter some water would be a fun diversion along the way. I've ridden various segments of this power-line road over the years, but I've not ridden the part that extends from here to Marl Springs. - I pull over on Kelbaker Road, with Kelso Peak still in view, and go for a short walk
A few cars pass by, and I make sure I have my camera out so that nobody thinks I've stopped here because of a mechanical breakdown. - Further down Chloride Cliff Road on the way back to Monarch Canyon
Another rocky stretch of road. - I try riding the worn-out paved track along the wash to avoid the deep sand and gravel in Jackass Canyon
This marks the start of two or three miles of mostly unrideable gravel in Jackass Canyon. I travelled Jackass Canyon during my Xmas 2007 Mojave National Preserve trip, so I know what to expect this time. - After another half hour, the gravel is finally thinning out and it looks like I can try getting on the bike and riding again
There will be a bit more gravel ahead, but not much. I am able to pedal my way, at a slow speed, up most of the gentle grade ahead in upper Jackass Canyon. - Up out of Jackass Canyon for good, I'm now on the plateau, heading toward Mojave National Preserve's famous cinder cones
Time to put my sweater on. I have 1.5 miles to ride on this nice flat road (slightly downhill, actually) before reaching the pavement of Kelbaker Road. I can't take this road too quickly due to the slippery sand, but it's a fun ride. - Riding up Ivanpah Road, Mojave National Preserve
I'll turn off soon to stop at Bathtub Spring to filter some water. This part of the road is a bit more level, and easier to ride. This is good because my energy is still not as high as I would like this morning! - I pause along Wild Horse Canyon Road to watch a cow trudge along in an adjacent wash
- I filter water again at Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve
It's hot in the sun, but nice to sit down and listen to the quiet and sounds at the spring. I haven't seen another person for a couple of days. - I'm hoping to continue hiking along the ridge, but it looks like there may be a drop-off beyond those two junipers
I walk over to check out a possible descent route. - The upper part of Gold Valley Road rolls up and down over gently folding terrain
Perfect for mountain biking! - Under a burnt tree, two plants try to trick me: the yellow flowers don't belong to the the green patch of foliage
The yellow flowers look like a Groundsel poking up through the leaves of a Desert four o'clock that isn't blooming yet. - I dig one final cat hole in Pinto Valley and no flies drop by to disturb me while I fill it up
I hope all these dark clouds floating past won't turn into rain. It's chilly this morning and I keep my heavy clothes on. I have no idea what the weather forecast is. - For some reason, this meadow near Butcher Knife Canyon is resplendent with small white flowers
I haven't seen any of these flowers in the area except at this location. - I ride down the almost imperceptible slope of Ivanpah Road toward Cedar Canyon Road
Cedar Canyon Road will be about 11 miles down from Keystone Canyon Road and 800 feet lower. I stop along the way to tighten the bolt of my rear rack, which had come loose and announced itself with a loud clunk. - Morning at Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
I didn't take any photos when I got here last night, so it's time to catch up! Lots of pinon pines, banana yuccas, sagebrush and junipers up here. - Beyond Stovepipe Wells, I cross Death Valley on Highway 190 and stop to look at the Death Valley Dunes
I wonder what it would be like to go for a short walk out there in this heat. While riding along here, a gust of wind blows some sand into my eyes. Fortunately, I haven't yet experienced one of the Death Valley sand storms that many visitors before me have stories about. - No Death Valley backroad trip is complete without a photo of the tea kettles at Teakettle Junction
Teakettle Junction itself is nothing more than a junction of two narrow dirt roads far, far away from anything. However, there is a tradition of passers-by bringing a tea pot with them to add to the collection hanging on the sign. Many of the tea pots are dated or have messages on them, or in them. Some are very unusual vessels rather than typical tea pots, and a few even appear to have been custom-made for this purpose. - I pull into the Salt Creek Hills ACEC to see what's there
There should be a bit of water here (not drinking water). - Higher yet above Hell's Gate, I look back behind me again as I approach 3000-feet elevation
Yes, I'm still rising. I notice that I'm getting a bit fatigued and wobbly on the steeper parts of the road here. There's practically no shoulder on parts of this fast-speed road and it would be unsafe to ride so close to the edge that I might slip on the edge of the pavement and fall in front of traffic coming up behind me (I've seen this happen). So I ride here out in the traffic lane a bit, being careful to give myself enough space to ride safely (with my wobbles), which forces cars to pass me widely. - I stop for a map check to see if I'm getting close to Hatch Spring yet
I don't want to do like I did yesterday again and miss points of interest! - The views keep getting better as I climb up Red Creek Road
And I keep getting hotter and hotter. A good excuse to stop occasionally and savour the views. - Slaughterhouse Spring, Mojave National Preserve
As I expected, there's not much water here. But there is a little, perfect for use in case of an emergency! - The sun gets lower as I hike back up the wash toward my tent near Twin Buttes
I'm happy with today's hike. Nice day. Pretty warm, but not too hot - Primroses at my Mid Hills Campground campsite
I manage to sleep in until 10h30 this morning; I really needed the sleep. After a couple of cups of coffee, granola, nuts and vitamin C drink, I'm ready. - This prefabricated house in east Newberry Springs has no front steps
I guess they don't use the front door often. Or perhaps nobody lives here anyway? - Hiking down this Castle Peaks wash is fun (it's a bit downhill), and then I reach this fairly recent barbed-wire fence
This might be the Mojave National Preserve boundary. There's plenty of room for me to crawl under the fence, so I do. I just hope it will be as easy to cross when I encounter it again in a short while. - On the way down the hill, I stop at the windmill and water tank near Gold Valley Spring
This windmill is still in operation, since cattle still graze in this area. - A few desert sages (Salvia dorrii) are still blooming here on the approach to Saddle Horse Canyon
It's already late in the day, so I won't have time for a long hike, but a short hike should give me a good impression of the area. - Wild Horse Canyon Road dips down into the upper part of Macedonia Canyon as I ride back to Mid Hills campground
It's great to have a little downhill on the way uphill! That spot down on the road ahead is a cow, I believe. - The corral at Government Holes, Mojave National Preserve
The hills in the background are adjacent to the Mid Hills campground, where I spent the last four nights. - Some yellow Groundsel flowers also decorate the saddle I'm following back down to Pinto Valley
I find myself wondering what I always wonder when I'm out on these hikes: "When did someone last hike here?" - To my right is an old trailer on a hillside that I'm not expecting to see, so I start hiking cross-country toward my tent
According to my map, I must be a mile or so east of my tent. But with the endless forest of joshua trees between here and there, I can't tell exactly where I am. I wouldn't mind except that it will get dark shortly and there will be no moonlight this evening. I didn't bring my flashlight because I was sure that I wouldn't need it (I should know better). I like this area and would love to go for a walk up to that old trailer to see what remains up there. But there's no time for that right now. - The water that drips out from under the tree roots at Cottonwood Spring flows over this rock as a clear shiny film
Then the water hits the ground and creates the small stream below. I'm relieved to find water because I drank more of my water supply than expected yesterday on the way here. I can now relax knowing that I have no chance of running out of water while I'm in this area. - Trio Mine Road, on the way back to Ivanpah Road, 1/4 mile or so away
Despite the cold, I really like this landscape. There are even a few juniper trees growing here, which makes it feel very different from the lower desert areas. I could easily spend more time here exploring. There should be some old mine ruins just up the road. However, I don't have all that much water left, so I need to pack up and get to Mid Hills Campground by the end of the day before I run out. - Black Canyon Road climbs slowly the next eight miles toward Mid Hills Campground
I even pass a couple of cars along this stretch of road. - Starting up Bear Spring Road.
Judging by the tire tracks, vehicles drive up here once in a while, but not often. - A half-mile later, Red Creek Road switchbacks 180 degrees and quits the canyon for good
During the next two miles, Red Creek Road will wind around the hillside and rise up to 2400 feet elevation, from here at 1650 feet. - I ride past one of the many cairns that mark the Mojave Road
I'm back on a solid road surface again, at least for a few minutes. - The big rock piles here above Watson Wash are even more impressive up close than they are from a distance
I've often looked over this way when passing through the area, but never ventured over here on foot to explore until today. Good hiking choice! - I bet the valley below, between here and the Lucy Gray Mountains in the middleground, would be an interesting place to explore
The wind up here is strong and almost cold. High winds have been forecast for the next few days out here. Aside from the sound of the wind, it's peaceful up here. I haven't seen any people yet today. - I'm back out on a main road now (Black Canyon Road this time) and pass the windmill at Holliman Well
I'm up at about 5275 feet elevation now. - I hike across an area with a lot of Fremont pincushion flowers
I remember this area, and these Fremont's pincushion flowers, from my hike here in 2008. - Up on Cliff Canyon Spring Peak #2 are a lot of ankle-high cacti
This makes for interesting "avoidance hiking," and I pick up a few needles in the soles of my shoes. - I'm hiking briskly cross-country in the hope of crossing before dark the Cottonwood Canyon Road that will lead me to my tent
I'm really enjoying the sunset over Cima Dome in the distance, but am a bit nervous about not knowing my precise location, even though I know I'm not too far from my tent. My cross-country hike will get a lot slower if it gets dark because it will be harder to avoid the spiky and thorny bushes. I'm already getting some good scratches on my legs as my hiking speed increases and I get a bit careless. - The old road through the trailer park hasn't returned to nature
... not yet, at least. - Rising up into the Funeral Mountains on Highway 190
I'm now up around 2000 feet. - Huff and puff, I finally make it to the Emigrant Campground; my world is slanted here on the fan
This is a rather sparse campground that feels like a big gravel parking lot carved out of creosote bushes plowed down, equipped with a bunch of picnic tables, and with garbage cans and a public water tap on one side of it. The public washroom just down the road is a nice convenience. Though deceptively dull at first, it's actually a really nice location. First of all, being high up on the alluvial fan at 2000 feet allows for expansive views all around, which are especially nice at sunrise and sunset. It's a bit cooler up here than on the valley floor and several interesting hikes or bicycle rides could start from this location into the surrounding hills. Another positive trait is that this is a tents-only campground. - The final part of Cornfield Spring Road, which is shared with the road to Rex Mine, is quite sandy
I see some footprints here, and they might be mine from when I walked the 10-ton bike up this stretch three days ago. - I decide that the best choice is to simply leave Kelso Dunes and its campers behind and head west down the power-line road
This way I'll be closer to tomorrow's hike in Bull Canyon. This was my original plan anyway, but I was planning to arrive here earlier and be well past Kelso Dunes before sunset - Close up of the plant life in Mississippi Lake.
Mississippi Lake water doesn't taste too terrible in the early morning when it's still somewhat cool. But as the day heats up, and the water temperature with it, the green-and-muddy taste and smell get amplified and becomes annoying after a while. I walk back to the campsite to get out of the sun and to prepare coffee and breakfast: two bowls of instant miso soup with seaweed, my last two Zen Bakery cinnamon rolls, a Granny Smith apple, plus a handful each of dried apricots and tamari-roasted almonds. A nice addition at Mississippi Lake this year is a garbage can. Most of Coe Park has no garbage collection, so you must pack out all your garbage, which isn't much fun to carry around. - My final morning at Paradise Lake, I'm up early in an attempt to get packed up before the hot sun becomes unbearable
It's cool enough by Paradise Lake this morning that I have to wear my sweater for the first time during the trip. But only for an hour, and then the heat sets in. I only drink one cup, instead of two, of my beloved strong Peets coffee this morning due to the heat. I sometimes wish I could be a morning person and get up earlier and still enjoy the day. - Back on a dirt road (Nipton-Moore Road): straight ahead are the McCullough Mountains; I wish I had time to head up there today
I explored a corner of the southern McCullough Mountains on my 2011 trip out here. Today, I'm headed to Nipton, that blit of buildings at centre-left in the photo. I'm still riding along the railway tracks, which are just outside the photo on the right. - Video snippet of riding the 10-ton bike through the Joshua tree forest on the Sagamore Cut-Off Road
It's tricky trying to ride the ungainly 10-ton bike with one hand on a camera, and only one hand on the handlebars. Youtube adjustments to the video to reduce shakiness produce interesting effects at times. - After 2 miles of dirt road from Sleeping Beauty, I ride 8 miles, mostly a bit downhill, to Ludlow, for lunch on old Route 66
I'm hungry and looking forward to a meal at the Ludlow Café down there! I have a slight headwind, so I only reach 16 mph, despite riding downhill. My left knee is sore from yesterday, and I hope it doesn't get worse! - Elevation profile of Sleeping Beauty to Kelso Dunes Wilderness bicycle route
24.9 bicycle miles plus about 1200 feet of elevation drop. - Once I get past the crazy, steep and rocky part at the beginning of the short descent, the rest is easy
Looking down makes me think it would be fun to ride the bottom of this hill on a mountain bike. The space between the junipers on the way down is like an old grown-in trail. - A few verbenas are still flowering in the mouth of Butcher Knife Canyon
Gooding's verbena, the last of the season. - I'm officially at the bottom of the New York Mountains foothills now
The familiar Howe Spring pinnacles are not all that far ahead now, and I'm hiking on what's left of the old road here. - Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road rolls over many low humps, since it cuts across drainage areas from the New York Mountains
I still have the strong Mojave winds pushing me from behind, which makes the ride out here in the middle of nowhere on the 10-ton bike even better. - Old cattle-watering trough in the abandoned corral below Butcher Knife Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
I'll find out shortly where water would come from to fill this cattle trough; for now, it's not obvious. Orange desert-mallow flowers add a nice touch. - I reach an old wooden box which houses a camera that takes photos of wildlife
Presumably, this means that Cottonwood Spring itself is right there in the grassy area ahead. - For three miles, I skirt the western edge of Ivanpah Valley on the paved Ivanpah Road
Ivanpah Road rises behind me into the east end of the New York Mountains; I hope to ride up that way before the end of the trip. - To my left while descending Cima Road are views across the valley to the Butcher Knife Canyon area of the New York Mountains
The two nights I spent at Butcher Knife Canyon last week were an enjoyable exercise in solitude and weathering strong winds. - Pinto Mountain decorates the views northward from Cedar Canyon Road as I enter the Mid Hills area
If I didn't have to think about practical issues like refilling my drinking water tonight, this might be a nice place to stop and go for a hike. - Death Valley Mine Road is also rocky in places
But the rocky spots do provide some much-needed traction. Many of the rocks are pinkish quartz which adds to the luminescent quality of the landscape. - Grand views of the Ivanpah Valley open up as I descend Morning Star Mine Road
I have a tail wind and reach 38.5 mph as I go down (a record for me), with extended stretches over 30 mph. - Standing in the middle of the abandoned campground's swimming pool
The old swimming pool has been filled in so as not to pose a hazard to visitors like me. The old tile work of the pool protrudes above ground a little at the centre-right of the photo. Death Valley, where I started this morning, is straight ahead beyond the mountains behind the abandoned campground, about 3500 feet down. - A little further sits the sign for Badwater Road
I've risen almost up to sea level now. - Success! I found one flat, wide-enough, non-rocky spot above the road, so I'm back at the bike to dismantle it and set up camp
I bring the saddlebags, two at a time, to the campsite, which is about 100 feet from the road. I carry the bike to my campsite (off-road riding is not allowed, even in a non-Wilderness area like this), and set up camp in the dark.
Some clouds float around during the evening, often muffling the brilliant almost-full moon. The white ceiling over the desert casts a mysterious light on the Kelso Dunes, which are visible from my campsite. I can see for miles tonight.
The quiet evening is often interrupted by the loud whooshing of strong winds above in the adjacent Granite Mountains. The forlorn howls warn of a possible wind storm tonight, but, here at my campsite, most of the wind is just a big noise, not a physical force. Only occasionally does the wind actually touch down, and when it does, it lacks the violence of the gusts I can hear overhead. This is one of the more mysterious sounds heard in the desert.
Supper is Mountain House Beef Stew, one of my favourites. As the evening progresses, several extra layers of clothing go on, and a few swigs of brandy add extra warmth.
- I spot a Desert four o'clock blooming in Round Valley under a tree on the Black Canyon Cut-off Road
I've hardly seen any of these this year, unlike some other years. - The wash begins to widen slightly, collecting sand that runs down from the McCullough Mountains
No fresh footprints here!