Home 7119
- Well, I've just passed through some yellow; now it's time for some purple
After two weeks in the muted colours of the Mojave Desert hills, this purple patch seems so bright. - I'm not sure what these purple flowers are
Some kind of phacelia, perhaps? - It's interesting to find so many of these purple flowers on just this one hillside in the New York Mountains
I haven't seen these blue/purple flowers elsewhere in the area today, at least not yet. - I'm tempted to climb down into the sandy wash as I get closer to Pinto Valley
... but I still have a few more panoramic views ahead of me, so I'll stay up on the saddle. - As I hike downhill toward home, I see that some of the smog haze has blown into Pinto Valley as well
... but not nearly as much as what I saw looking down into Ivanpah Valley from the Cliff Canyon Springs Peaks a while ago. - I'm officially at the bottom of the New York Mountains foothills now
The familiar Howe Spring pinnacles are not all that far ahead now, and I'm hiking on what's left of the old road here. - One bush that I encounter occasionally in the Mojave Desert Mountains is the Barberry
Even the leaves on this guy are hard and sharp, though not quite like a cactus. Best of all, many of them have sprouted back after being burned by the 2005 brush fires out here. - I'm back down in Pinto Valley earlier than expected, so I go for a walk up a barely visible old road on the way back to camp
The road is returning to nature and isn't always easy to follow. - A few stretches of the old road here on the other side of Howe Spring are still well-defined
And a few more old juniper trees in the area here survived the 2005 brush fires. - I decide to go climb a few boulders over on the nearby rock pile
Who knows what I might find there on my way back home! - It's fun to hike over the rocks in this quiet corner of Pinto Valley
I don't stumble across anything special here, but the endless lines and textures are a pleasure to explore. - Looking back at the New York Mountains foothills, I realize that today's hike was not too difficult, and worth the effort
The Cliff Canyon Spring Peaks up there are about 1000 feet higher than here. Effort and some fitness is required, but you don't need to be an athlete to do this hike. - As I walk around the rocks near Howe Spring, I reflect on how I haven't seen another human for almost 4 days
Solitude! - This pile of rocks reminds me of a rabbit viewed in side profile, with its head facing toward the right
Yes, I've been in the desert for two weeks now... - Front-on, these rocks look like a twisted, drunken face
Popeye would be proud of this rock outcrop. - Nearby is another interesting rock outcrop
Rocket-launch rock. - This part of Howe Spring Road follows a sandy, eroded wash
Judging by the erosion along the road, this might look like a small river during heavy rainfall. - I pass yet another sculptural pile of rocks in Pinto Valley on the way back to my tent
The rolling hills in the background are the north side of Pinto Mountain. - As I get closer to my tent, I notice my tire tracks and footprints from the past few days here in Pinto Valley
I guess no one else has come up this road since I've been here... - Arriving back at my tent, I take note of the patch of pink Desert primroses near the fire ring
There's almost as much wind down here by my tent as there was up in the New York Mountains hills (as you can see by the leaning flowers and grass). - I'm going to boil water for supper on this side of the tent, to shelter my gas flame from the wind
Supper will be Backpacker's Pantry Kathmandu Curry (vegan and tasty), plus my last few pieces of buffalo jerky. I have very little food left, but tomorrow I'll be riding back to Primm, Nevada to end this trip. - One last sunset at Pinto Valley
Despite the clear skies, it's incredibly windy tonight (again). At this point, the tent is trying to lift off and blow away. The big rocks I placed in the tent are keeping it down, but they're starting to wear through the tent fabric. I hope I can get enough sleep inside the noisy tent. I'm tired, so I manage to fall asleep easily around 23h30, despite my tent flapping in the gusty winds, but I keep waking up during the night for extended periods of time. - Cliff Canyon Peaks hike, Mojave National Preserve, hiking route
9.3 hiking miles plus about 1700 feet of elevation gain. - Historic fencing
- The morning sun at Mid Hills campground is warm, but it was really chilly overnight, one of the coldest nights of this trip
I sleep in until 8h30, have breakfast, including Mountain House Beef Stew (yum) and spend part of the day hanging out with Sarah and Heather at the campsite next door. It's nice to have a day off! Sarah has an "extra" microbrew beer for me during the afternoon, thanks! - We drive in Sarah's minivan over to the Teutonia Peak trailhead from Mid Hills campground for our end-of-day hike
- As we start up the Teutonia Peak Trail, we're greeted by some Indian paintbrush
We're at about 5000 feet elevation here, so the wildflowers haven't all dried up yet from the summer heat that's on its way. It's a perfect day here in the low 80s F, with a cool breeze. - Some of the open areas between joshua trees are lightly carpeted with tiny white and yellow flowers
I think the white daisy-like flowers are Tidy tips (Layia glandulosa), while the yellow ones might be gilias. - Heather stops to check out a joshua tree on Teutonia Peak Trail
A lot of the joshua trees in this area are quite well-developed. They grow very slowly, so these big trees are old. - A soft, furry cactus (one of many) invites passers-by along the Teutonia Peak Trail
You want to reach out and touch it, but you don't want to. - I spot another "pineapple cactus" near Teutonia Peak Trail
I snapped a photo of one of these while hiking in the Castle Peaks area last week. - Here's a colorful Hopsage (Grayia spinosa) along Teutonia Peak Trail
They're not rare by any means, but I haven't noticed many so far on this trip. - A blue delphinium adds a spike of colour in the joshua-tree forest
The adjacent cactus just adds spikes. - Sarah and Heather check out a really huge "pancake cactus"
Most of the ones I see aren't as big as this one. - The Mojave Desert is most known for its spiny and tough plants, but graceful bunch grasses are also to be found
Teutonia Peak, the climax of our hike, is that rocky pile up ahead. - The area here below Teutonia Peak is also known for its big boulder outcrops
There are several campsites on the opposite of Cima Road from here for those wishing to camp out in this area. - I've been seeing desert sages along this trail (Salvia dorrii) and this is one of the better ones
They're just starting to wind down their flowering season, so some of them have lost some of their colour. They still smell great, of course. - An elderly juniper tree picks up the late afternoon sun along Teutonia Peak Trail
Like joshua trees, these grow slowly, so this one must be quite old. - Heather pauses in the middle of the Teutonia Peak Trail to contemplate the awesomeness of the area
The trail is quite narrow, but mostly an easy hike. - We start seeing the occasional Desert four o'clock bush with its intense magenta flowers
We're not too late for these flowers... - As the trail rises toward Teutonia Peak, we pass through a patch of junipers
On a really hot day, the shade from these trees would be welcome. - A Banana yucca sends out a fresh bouquet on the way up Teutonia Peak Trail
We're high enough now to see down into the valley where the minivan is parked, and all the way beyond to the Ivanpah and Clark Mountain ranges. - Sarah moseys around in the rock outcrops as we get close to the top of Teutonia Peak Trail
Some end-of-day haze is blowing in, dulling the view of the distant Kingston Range. - Heather climbs up the top of the Teutonia Peak Trail past another patch of "pancake cactus"
We're almost there! - Near the top of Teutonia Peak Trail, we get a good view across to nearby Kessler Peak (at left)
Cima Road is visible cutting across the valley. In the distance at the right is the New York Mountain range, and behind that the Castle Peaks area where I camped three nights last week. - On Teutonia Peak, we linger and enjoy; Heather looks across the valley to the Mid Hills, where we're camping
We're almost at 5700 feet elevation here. Where we're camped over on top of those hills is at about 5600 feet. - Heather walks between some of the boulders strewn about on Teutonia Peak
In theory, being on top of Teutonia Peak would require that we climb up the huge rocks with steep sides that sit on the summit, but that's not for us. - Sarah takes a break on Teutonia Peak, overlooking the subtle curve of Cima Dome
I have a cell-phone signal here, so I send a few text messages and make a quick phone call. I haven't had any phone service for the past couple of days, so I've been wanting to let people know that I haven't vanished. - We're all taking photos of each other; Sarah sits on one of the Teutonia Peak ridges
Clark Mountain is behind Sarah in the distance. I've hiked the lower parts of that area, but not all the way to the top. - Sarah discovers a rock shelter at Teutonia Peak and tries it out
It works! - Heather stands on a Teutonia Peak "balcony" overlooking the Cima Dome curve
Cima Dome is an interesting sight because its curve is so subtle, yet constant. I hiked over there a few years ago on its summit, and you feel more like you're on a plain than a dome. - From Teutonia Peak are views over to the "summit" of Cima Dome
It's about 1.5 miles from here to there, but it looks much closer. - As we start our way back down from Teutonia Peak, Heather takes the lead
It looks like we could do a walk across the valley to Clark Mountain, but that's over a dozen miles away. - This Claret-cup cactus is comfortable growing on a rock overlooking the Cima Dome expanse
It's usually quite windy up here, but I guess the cactus doesn't mind. - We pass another blooming Claret-cup cactus along Teutonia Peak Trail as we descend
There's that patch of junipers again, just ahead. - Teutonia Peak Trail bends and heads toward the northeast
Our gaze is now fixed on Kessler Peak ahead; the minivan is parked down in the valley well in front of that. - Desert sages along Teutonia Peak Trail pick up the pre-sunset orange glow
Under regular sunlight, they look more blue-purple rather than their present pink. - We turn around for a moment to look back toward Teutonia Peak
The orange sunset casts an almost psychedelic lime-green aspect on this Banana yucca. - Rock outcrops and irregular joshua trees create endless visual interest on the high plain between Teutonia Peak and Kessler Peak
We've lucked out catching sunset while on Teutonia Peak Trail; we didn't specifically plan our hike this way. - Kessler Peak soaks up as much of the reddish light as it can
I've camped in this area several times and the sunsets up here are typically memorable. - The lower part of Teutonia Peak Trail was once an old road, as is visible here
It's not quite camouflage, but Sarah's orange and green outfit fits in perfectly with the desert sunset! - Heather pauses to look at another one of the giant joshua trees along Teutonia Peak Trail
How many centuries old is this one? - We're almost back at the minivan when we pass one last Desert four o'clock blooming in the sunset
Sarah and Heather, thanks for takinq me along on this hike, it has been great! We drive back to Mid Hills campground on the washboarded roads and all settle in for our final evening there. Supper is Mountain House Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Rice, yummy. We had a good, scenic hike, but it wasn't even 4 miles, so I'm not physically tired for a change. I'll appreciate that when I pack up and leave tomorrow. The strong winds have moved on, so it's incredibly still and quiet here tonight. I love the desert when it's like that. I hear some noise by my tent just before going to sleep, probably a kangaroo rat or a jackrabbit... The heavy chill of recent nights is absent, so my sweater and long underwear in the sleeping bag almost feel too warm. - High winds overnight at Pinto Valley kept me from getting much sleep on this final night of the trip: miserable
I've been awake half the night, due to the high winds, and now I'm up for good at 6h, way too early for me. I'm looking forward to today's 47-mile ride back to Primm, Nevada, but hope I won't conk out due to lack of sleep and energy. - I dig one final cat hole in Pinto Valley and no flies drop by to disturb me while I fill it up
I hope all these dark clouds floating past won't turn into rain. It's chilly this morning and I keep my heavy clothes on. I have no idea what the weather forecast is. - My tent threatens to blow away while I pack it up one last time (until the next trip, of course)
Since I'm up so early today, and sleep-deprived, I have three cups of instant Starbucks coffee (instead of the usual two) with my granola-and-dried-apricots breakfast. I have almost no food left; this wouldn't be a good day for a breakdown! - Everything is packed up and I'm almost ready to leave Pinto Valley after four nights here
It's chilly enough this morning that I'm wearing my long underwear and bandana while packing, even though these activities generate heat. - I leave my Pinto Valley campsite at 5650 feet elevation and start coasting down Howe Spring Road around 9h
It doesn't look downhill, but I'll drop almost 400 feet during the first two miles. Best of all, that strong, nasty wind is now my friend, since I have it behind me. I especially like this because I didn't get much sleep last night. - I keep looking back at the ominous clouds behind me as I ride down Howe Spring Road
I managed to miss the rain showers that passed through this area during day 4 of this trip, and I'm hoping I'll be as lucky today, should some rain materialize. - I stop to check out the remains of an old building along Howe Spring Road
An old cabin? An old outbuilding? - My route ahead will take me across Watson Wash
I may have to walk the bike up part of that short steep hill on the way out of the wash. - I'm on New York Mountains Road now, and this part of it squiggles toward Drum Peak
Hmmm... could Drum Peak be a future hiking destination? - On New York Mountains Road, I notice strange noises coming from the 10-ton bike, so I pull over to see what's wrong
A couple of bolts on my old Jandd saddlebags have loosened, so I tighten them, which I don't think I've done before. These bags have served extremely well over the years. From here, I can still see Table Mountain over on the other side of the valley. - I pass a few little roads in this scenic area at the foot of the New York Mountains near Carruthers Canyon
I camped near here back in 2006, thinking I was in Carruthers Canyon. I was nearby, but not quite there! - I turn off on an unnamed road, which I'll call the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off, and leave the better New York Mountains Road behind
I haven't been down this road before, so I'm not sure what to expect, but it appears to be traveled fairly often. - The Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road passes through a stand of juniper trees as it begins its gentle descent
I'm at about 5175 feet elevation here, and it will be mostly gentle downhill for the rest of the day. - I reach a junction on the five-mile-long Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road
I start riding down the right fork, then decide I should check my maps, in case my intuition is wrong. Yes, my intuition is wrong; I turn back and take the left fork instead. - Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road is rather rough in places
... but it's a pretty nice ride on a mountain bike, at least in the downhill direction, even fully loaded with all my travel gear. - Much of the landscape along Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road seems to be quite pristine
Tufts of grass provide ground cover in the open areas between joshua trees. - I can see across the eastern end of Lanfair Valley over to the Castle Peaks area, where I spent a few days last week
Miles of joshua trees... Not as dense as the joshua-tree forest in the Cima Dome area, but still, miles of joshua trees. - It's time for a short break to enjoy the solitude of Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road without the noise of the 10-ton bike
I've ridden just over three of the five miles of this road, and haven't seen anyone else yet today. I'm enjoying my dried-apricot snack, which is one of the few food items I have left. - Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road rolls over many low humps, since it cuts across drainage areas from the New York Mountains
I still have the strong Mojave winds pushing me from behind, which makes the ride out here in the middle of nowhere on the 10-ton bike even better. - A few short slopes with loose rock on the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off road force me to get off the bike and walk a bit
I don't mind; it's so enjoyable out here listening to the silence. - Looking back behind me, I can see all the way across Lanfair Valley to flat-topped Table Mountain
It's always nice to look back see the distances that one has covered by pedal-power. - Great views from here across the joshua-tree forest to the New York Mountains peaks
So many little canyons up there to be explored, some day perhaps... - My five-mile ride across the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off road comes to an end when I reach the bigger Ivanpah Road
I haven't seen another person yet today (nor during the past few days), but I'll likely be passed by the occasional car here on Ivanpah Road. - Ivanpah Road is wide and gravelly
Sometimes, the rough surface provides good traction, but too much loose gravel sometimes makes for an unstable ride. Glad I have fat tires. My mind drifts while riding here and songs get stuck in my head, such as Marc Almond's Jacques Brel covers. - I pull over on Ivanpah Road to check out a couple of Phacelias (Desert canterbury bells) in bloom
There's not much colour here except for green and brown, so these stand out (though I probably wouldn't notice them if I were speeding by in a motor vehicle). I see my first motor vehicle of the day: I exchange waves with the passing pick-up driver. - A couple of cars pass me along Ivanpah Road
The drivers are probably wondering what I'm doing way out here, and I wonder the same about them. - I turn down a side road, just to see what's there, and find this old shot-up car
Time for a closer look! - Not only is the old car (1940s?) well-shot-up, but it's well-buried in sand
I guess this is a good example of how much sand flows down a drainage wash in the New York Mountains area over 50+ years... - Nice view from the driver's seat!
The question is always the same: "Why was this car abandoned in this particular place?" - I walk over to that old headframe, or whatever it is, with the New York Mountains backdrop
...and how old is that big juniper tree anyway? - I spot a tiny bit of blue in the landscape!
A little lupine. - Some of the bunch grasses in this high valley are quite bushy
Any critters hiding in there? - I return to the task of riding back to Primm, Nevada and have views of the Castle Peaks from this part of Ivanpah Road
I spent a few good days in that area earlier during this trip; it seems so far away already. - As I ride past Barnwell, I have to take another photo of the lined-up junked cars
I've photographed this several times over the years. It's a bit different every time! - This segment of Ivanpah Road follows the old railway grade from 100 years ago, and thus cuts right through the hills
Most of the abandoned railway grade today serves as a hiking or 4WD trail. I hiked a segment of the old Ivanpah railway grade on day 6 of this trip. - An uphill car passes me as Ivanpah Road begins its descent into Ivanpah Valley
I'm starting to gain some speed as I coast downhill. - I recognize the Bathtub Spring Peaks area as I ride down Ivanpah Road
I hiked up there behind the big hill ahead on day 6 of this trip. Apparently, not many people do. Awesome area. - I pause briefly along Ivanpah Road when I pass the dirt track leading up to Bathtub Spring, where I hiked on day 6
I was up on "Bathtub Spring Peak" in the middle of this photo, and descended the canyon at centre-right to this area. - In today's cool weather, I'm wearing my windbreaker over my sweater as I descend slowly into Ivanpah Valley
The cool weather I've experienced on this trip has been a real plus. It's often getting quite warm here at this time of year, which is why most of the trip was planned for the higher, cooler elevations. I'm at about 4400 feet elevation right now. - On the west side of Ivanpah Road, I can see roads leading up the hillsides in the Slaughterhouse Spring area
That's another part of the New York Mountains that I have yet to visit. - Downhill I ride toward Ivanpah Valley
Because the road is rather rough, I'm only riding at a relaxing 10-15 miles per hour. - Buckwheats are still flowering along this stretch of Ivanpah Road
I remember seeing quite a few buckwheats while hiking in this area along the old railway grade a week ago. - I arrive at the beginning of the pavement on Ivanpah Road
I'm getting a little closer to civilization. - Down there in the middle of Ivanpah Valley is a homestead
I've often been intrigued by that place while travelling out here. - It's fun to be on pavement again for a change, even if it's only for 2.5 miles: especially since it's downhill
This pavement on Ivanpah Road is the first pavement I've ridden in over a week and I reach 20 miles per hour along here. A strong headwind here is preventing me from riding faster. - As I approach the train tracks, I pass the old Ivanpah General Store
This building often gets used by squatters, as I learned when I visited Ivanpah General Store in 2008 and Ivanpah General Store in 2010. - At the Ivanpah Road railroad crossing, I make a right turn toward Nipton on the dirt road (Nipton-Moore Rd) that hugs the tracks
The paved route to Nipton, straight ahead, is longer, smoother, and perhaps faster, but the slow dirt road along the tracks is more relaxing, and pretty much free of cars. - Lonely Nipton-Moore Road dips down to cross numerous drainage washes as it crosses the desert alongside the train tracks
The train tracks however are on raised bridges to keep them from washing away during flood periods. - I have almost 20 miles to ride on this road until I reach Primm and end the day (and this year's trip)
I've got the road all to myself, except for the occasional passing train. Of course, I might encounter a motor vehicle also. - I pass another of these railway bridges and this one has a sandy road running under it, toward Willow Wash
If I were to hike far enough up there, I'd eventually join my Willow Wash hiking route from day 6 of this trip. - Hmmm... it looks like some light rain is falling further over in Ivanpah Valley
I hope this doesn't turn into a brief rainstorm for me. - Nipton-Moore Road rises over a few mounds, and from this one, I can see over to a small outcrop I've nicknamed 'Black Palisades'
I did a short hike from Nipton over to Black Palisades in 2009. - This road is not maintained...
One sees these signs out here in the Mojave Desert here and there. - I think I'm riding right into that cloudy area...
Will I get wet before I make it to my next stop at Nipton? - Just another three miles, and I'll arrive at Nipton for my rest stop
I ride under the power lines and watch Nipton get closer as I pedal on. - My dirt road crosses the paved Nipton Road, where I get off to visit the general store
It's right there, just on the other side of the train tracks. - I stop at Nipton for a relaxing 1.5 hours; I eat vegetable chips and have some liquid refreshment
Nipton is a nice little outpost of civilization and I've camped and showered here many times over the years. I last stopped here two weeks ago, to fill up my water supply on the first day of this trip. - The café at Nipton is closed right now due to plumbing problems
I'm looking forward to it being open again the next time I pass through. Unfortunately, the previous café operator (Bill), enjoyed by many of us visitors, passed away last year. - I guess I need to leave Nipton and get on with the final leg of this trip
The refreshments and relaxation have been good. I've also had a few good chats with people visiting the store, as well as with the gal working here (who I've seen several times over the years). - I'm back on the train-track road, but this time a few miles of it are paved, and called Nipton-Desert Road
I have about 12 miles to go until I reach Primm. - I cross the cattle-guard on Nipton-Desert Road
I remember riding over that on the first day of this trip... - It looks like a few rainy patches are moving around out in the middle of Ivanpah Valley
I've been watching them for the past couple of hours, but I haven't had any contact with them. - I zoom in behind me for a final glance at the Castle Peaks area of the New York Mountains
They're falling further and further behind me. It's already been more than a week since I spent three nights camping and hiking up near those pinnacles. - The pavement on Nipton-Desert Road ends at private property and the road turns sharply left to cross under the train tracks
This location is called Desert, California. As far as I can tell, this settlement only has this one house. - Nipton-Desert Road crosses under the train tracks at the one-house settlement of Desert, California
It will continue to parallel the train tracks all the way to the area of Primm, Nevada. - I keep looking back at the murky clouds over upper Ivanpah Valley toward Cima and the New York Mountains
Looks like virga, but not rain, over there. I guess I'm not going to get rained on today after all. - Nipton-Desert Road comes out from under a few dark clouds as I ride toward Primm
7.5 miles to go... I've been seeing a few jackrabbits as I ride along here. - Vehicles on the I-15 freeway, on the other side of Ivanpah Valley, glisten as the setting sun peers through the clouds
The upper hills in the background, at the end of the Clark Mountain Range, glow lightly. - From here, I can see back to the New York Mountains ridge line where I hiked yesterday (Cliff Canyon Springs Peaks)
I was up on one of the high points in the right third of this photo. - It's always fun when a train passes by while riding these trackside roads in the Mojave Desert
Quite often, the conductor will see me and wave; I wave back, of course. - Well, there's Primm, Nevada just ahead; I guess this year's trip is officially over
The paradox is that I'm happy to be approaching my destination for the day, with some much-needed relaxation ahead tonight, but this casino-wasteland freeway off-ramp shopping mall with cookie-cutter chain stores isn't my idea of an interesting place. - Back on the pavement of Primm, Nevada, where I started two weeks ago
Those silly palm trees, a town aspiring to be something it isn't. - There's Whiskey Pete's Casino and Hotel on the other side of the freeway, where I'll spend this last night; trip over!
A charming gal checks me in for my hotel room. I exude the heavy scent of desert plants mixed with body odour, after 10 days without a shower. She wonders if someone nearby is wearing some kind of interesting herbal perfume. Maybe I don't smell quite as bad as I think I do, or maybe she's just trying to be nice. Tomorrow morning, an Amtrak bus will pick me up here and take me to the San Joaquin train in Bakersfield. - Tomorrow morning, an Amtrak bus will deliver me to the train in Bakersfield, which passes through fields of roses in Wasco
I always enjoy the Amtrak bus ride from the Mojave Desert to Bakersfield (with a stop at Panda Express in the Barstow Station food court for a filling rice plate; I'm hungry!). The Amtrak San Joaquin train up California's Central Valley is a nice way to end a trip. - Elevation profile of Pinto Valley to Primm, Nevada bicycle route via Ivanpah Road
46.5 bicycle miles and about 2700 feet of elevation loss. - Pinto Valley to Primm, Nevada bicycle route via Ivanpah Road
46.5 bicycle miles and about 2700 feet of elevation loss. - Teutonia Peak Trail, Mojave National Preserve, elevation gain
3.3 hiking miles round-trip plus about 700 feet of elevation gain. - Teutonia Peak Trail, Mojave National Preserve, hiking route
3.3 hiking miles round-trip plus about 700 feet of elevation gain. - So what's in that old car in front of the Route 66 Motel anyway?
Litter and old junk, naturally! There are a number of old cars on this property, worth checking out. - It's time to leave the gritty, but interesting Route 66 Motel in Barstow, CA and start another week of bicycle camping
I arrived here late yesterday afternoon via Amtrak with the 10-ton bike and had a relaxing evening last night at the motel after a two-mile ride from the bus station. - An old vending machine sits in an alcove between units at Barstow's Route 66 Motel
My motel room is old (which I like, but everyone wouldn't, in the age of Walmart), and there's a lot of neat old stuff to check out here on the Route 66 Motel property. - OK, it's time; I pack up the 10-ton bike and leave the Route 66 Motel—I'll be in sleeping in a tent tonight; I can't wait
It's always hard getting started, and it takes a day or three to get used to the weight of all my gear on the bike. Later today, I'll increase the weight by adding water, so heavy. - I start by riding the two miles down Barstow's Main Street (Route 66) to the end of the east side of town
The bike lane here only lasts a few blocks, and is substandard because a third of it is taken up by the gutter, but I realize on a slow, uphill stretch that I prefer it to none at all. - Before leaving Barstow, I stop at Walmart (a place I usually avoid) to buy a new Camelbak
I didn't realize until last night at the motel that the drinking tube of my Camelbak was starting to decompose. Blech. I also pick up a gallon of drinking water. - I leave Barstow eastbound on a frontage road and then ride the I-40 freeway for 2.5 miles to get past the naval base there
I'm riding into a strong headwind today, the opposite of the most typical wind pattern in this area. I'm often riding at under 10 miles per hour, though I do reach briefly 15 on a slightly downhill stretch of the freeway. - I get off the I-40 freeway at the Nebo Street exit, turn left, then go under the freeway and rejoin old Route 66 eastbound
The shoulder of the freeway is really wide, so there are no conflicts with automobile traffic while riding here. In fact, I get pulled along a little by the wind created by the passing cars, which is nice. - Old Route 66 passes through the interesting little village of Daggett, California
Here's an old "storybook" house that you'll see in many photos of Route 66 in Daggett. - Daggett has numerous unused structures, such as this old gas station
It even had a "food mart." - The Daggett post office is decorated with heavy bars on its windows
However, this isn't south-central Los Angeles or Detroit! - On the other side of the train tracks from Route 66 is Daggett's general store, the Desert Market
There are a few more interesting historic buildings over in that part of Daggett. - East of Daggett, one of several long cargo trains passes by
The area is quite wide-open, punctuated by occasional houses and trailers, a few of which are abandoned. - To my right, not far away, is the I-40 freeway, and just beyond that, the Newberry Mountains are now close by
I almost hiked up there at the end of last year's trip, but a wind storm cancelled that plan. - It's almost 2 pm; I've just passed under I-40 again on Rte 66 near Newberry Springs and here's a gas station
After 20 miles on the bicycle, I stop in for a quick Subway meatball sandwich and a can of Mountain Dew for some additional caffeine at the gas station by the freeway. With 25 miles ahead of me and a strong wind, it's a very slow ride. - There's a bit of traffic on Route 66 in the Newberry Springs area
I ride over the occasional Route 66 insignia painted on the road. I bought some brandy at the gas station stop behind me, for later consumption, but haven't drank any yet. - The abandoned Henning Motel in Newberry Springs appeared in the famous Bagdad Café movie years ago
Today, it's open to the weather, and it's metal roof cover is being stripped by vandals. The property is also for sale. - Next door is the famous Bagdad Café itself
It's still open and serving food. - An old Italian restaurant and gas station sits in Newberry Springs behind a fence
Guard dogs protect the property (and many others in Newberry Springs for that matter). - I stop to look across a dry lake on the east end of Newberry Springs toward the I-40 freeway on the opposite shore
Off in the distance are the Cady Mountains, where I hope to camp and hike later this week. - The worn-out pavement on old Route 66 makes for rather rough riding east of Newberry Springs
Bump, bump, bump. It goes on like this for miles. The mountain patch in the distance is Sleeping Beauty, my destination today. - Some of the remaining structures along Route 66 east of Newberry Springs are deteriorated or no longer in use
The strip of land between old Route 66 and the I-40 freeway seems to be undesirable. - This prefabricated house in east Newberry Springs has no front steps
I guess they don't use the front door often. Or perhaps nobody lives here anyway? - Old motel sign east of Newberry Springs
No building remains exist at this location, just the sign. - A different kind of no-trespassing sign: an entire trailer
It doesn't look like the power line goes to the trailer... - I ride up a gentle hill through the lava field area of old Route 66 east of Newberry Springs
This wouldn't even count as hill if you're driving it in a car, but with the wind pushing me back, I'm surprised that this "hillette" feels so big. - It has been cloudy most of the day, but a bit of sun is peering through the clouds as sunset approaches along old Route 66
The strong wind against me has made today's ride really slow (and tiring), so I take several very short photo breaks along here to enjoy what's left of the sun before it disappears less than an hour from now. - It's getting close to darkness here on Route 66 and my cheap camera is trying to compensate by turning everything blue
I still have 10 miles to go, some uphill, after 35 miles of pedalling today. Getting tired, I stop for an energy bar before sunlight vanishes. After dark, and only a few cars pass by (everyone is on the nearby freeway, and there's little reason not to be). - It has been dark for an hour now, and I'm finally on the dirt road off Route 66 leading up toward Sleeping Beauty mountain
No people around up here and it feels better and quieter as I get further from the nearby I-40 freeway. The only light out here now in the desert is my headlight. As the road gets steeper, I start walking the bike, and it's time to look for a campsite, not too close to the dirt road. - Tired when I get near the top of Sleeping Beauty road, I walk around in a fog for a while looking for a campsite not by the road
Rain sets in around 21h, about an hour after I set up camp, and lasts a couple of hours. I don't remember this being in today's forecast! However, the pitter-patter is soothing on my tent roof, and it keeps excessive numbers of tourists away. - The rain on my tent makes it look metallic with the camera flash; the rain has stopped and it's time to go to sleep!
With the hum of the freeway below me, the rain has stopped before midnight, and it feels good be to be camping in the desert again. I eat some jerky, sip some brandy, and go to bed, satisfied. Temperature drops to mid 30s F. - Sleeping Beauty hike, elevation profile
4.2 hiking miles, approximately 1500 feet elevation gain. - The star of the show this evening is Backpacker's Pantry Beef and Broccoli Stir-Fry
This is one of my favorite add-boiling-water-to-bag meals. It's supposed to serve two people, but I find it's perfect for one hungry hiker-biker. - In the bag, Backpacker's Pantry Beef and broccoli Stir-Fry doesn't look like much, but it's good!
Like most of these instant meals, it's rather light on the meat, which I like, and I get my rice dose for the day. - A relaxing evening in the tent, with my sweaters on, and I sleep really well in my new, warm winter sleeping bag
I have a few sips of brandy after my evening meal and get to sleep around 23h30. It's chilly, down to 40F. I step outside numerous times to enjoy the bright stars and the Milky Way; no moonlight tonight and no clouds. I listen to the sounds coming from a few miles further down the hill: trains passing by, residual freeway rumble, occasional airplanes, and a few booming sounds, presumable from the military base down there. - Closer inspection of the little cave shows smoke stains on the roof
Now I'm wondering how old those smoke stains are, and who made them. Early miners a century ago? Native Americans? No ashes here, so the smoke stains aren't all that recent. - A few very early Desert mallow blossoms are about to open in this Sleeping Beauty canyon
I wonder if this area will be decorated with a lot of these flowers during the spring season, like some other Mojave Desert areas. - A river of rock flows down a hill toward this Sleeping Beauty canyon
I would like to witness some of these rocks in their downhill movement... - Well, my planned hike down this side canyon in the Sleeping Beauty mountains instantly ends when I reach a 10-foot drop-off
Spectacular. It's narrow here, with no obvious way to easily climb down around the drop-off, so I'll turn back and climb over the hills and try a different way back down out of the mountains. - I'm up above the drop-off now in the Sleeping Beauty foothills
I'll try hiking down the gully straight ahead of me to get back to my campsite. - I look behind me at the lower part of the Sleeping Beauty canyon I've just descended
Great colors here, the contrasts perhaps increased a little by my Canon point-and-shoot pocket camera. - I cross a dry, sandy wash on the way back to my tent
I'll climb over the hill on the other side in that drainage area. - I've seen several of these little yellow flowers on today's hike
This reminds me of Goldfields (Lasthenia californica). - Climbing out of the sandy wash, a few big rocks, and a lot of small ones
Not much soil here, so not many plants growing! - I'm almost back at the tent, with Sleeping Beauty behind me, right at sunset
A couple of miles down below, I can see cars on the I-40 freeway. - Back home for the night in the Sleeping Beauty foothills, what a great hike that was today!
Now I'm hungry, but I wait until after dark to make my instant backpacker's meal. - Hmmm, a little cave on the side of this canyon in the Sleeping Beauty mountains
I have to go over and check it out. A noisy hawk flies overhead, and I wonder which area cavelet s/he lives in. - I take a look at a small dry waterfall in this unnamed Sleeping Beauty canyon that I just climbed around
The area to the left is an easy way around this little drop-off. How would this look with water flowing? - I pass a patch of brilliant rabbitbrush on the way down this Sleeping Beauty canyon
I have one of these in my garden at home! - I study my maps a bit and backtrack a quarter-mile up the canyon before turning right and climbing over a rocky ridge
With the awesome scenery here, I'm happy to explore the area longer. However, daylight expires quite soon at this time of year, and I'd rather not be climbing rocky hills after dark. - On the way up the steep, rocky hill, I notice many of those daisy-like plants of which I've seen many today
Most of these aren't flowering yet. I'm guessing that within a couple of weeks, there will be a lot more white flowers with yellow centers than I'm seeing now. - I've made it up to the ridge and have great views toward my campsite down below Sleeping Beauty (which I can't see yet)
I take a good look at the hill below me; steep, but the large rocks will probably provide good footing, unless they are really loose. I'll see shortly! - Such a beautiful canyon to descend during the hike back to my tent from Sleeping Beauty
...especially in the late-afternoon November Mojave Desert sunlight. - Now that I've almost reached the bottom of this Sleeping Beauty Canyon, I take a look back up behind me
I tend to get vertigo often, but not while inching my way down this hill, despite the steepness. Perhaps the beauty of the area distracted me such that I forgot about vertigo. - The Mojave Desert is full of interesting and colourful rocks and earth
... and this Sleeping Beauty canyon is no exception in its lower area with its greenish earth and rusty boulders. - Oops, just when I'm not expecting any further obstacles, I encounter a 15-foot drop-off in the drainage that I'm hiking
However, it's easy to walk over a nearby hill to get around this. - I take note of small tufts growing in the rocks as I walk down this Sleeping Beauty canyon that I didn't plan to explore
Some of these plants are desert holly. - I head down into the shade in the Sleeping Beauty mountains
I figure I'll probably exit the mountains on the fan a mile or so northwest of my campsite, and then hike back to my tent on flatter land. - There are a few Mojave asters flowering here today, which I don't expect in November
However, most of the blossoms are old ones from the last season.