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- On the way down, I get a nice view down into the short slot canyon that I briefly explored on the way up
The bright yellow end-of-day light makes this more remarkable than it was on the way up. - Pachalka Spring Road has slowly made its way up onto a low ridge
Prior to this trip, I studied this area extensively using Google Earth and it's interesting to finally see it live. The road needs to dip down into and out of a wash before it can reach Pachalka Spring. - I start riding up the fan on the road to Pachalka Spring, Mojave National Preserve, straight toward the Clark Mountain Range
The road has been mostly rideable so far, but it's deteriorating, so I'm expecting to do a bit of bike-hiking soon. But maybe not, who knows. - The washboard surface of the south end of Wild Horse Canyon Road makes for a rough ride
The scenery in this area is gorgeous and ever-changing. Get out of your car and walk up one of these steep hills to truly appreciate it (make sure you bring a lot of water and keep drinking it). - Oh good, a level spot, but perhaps followed by a steep drop...
Cool erosion pock marks on the rocks here. - I reach Walking Box Ranch Road and it's time to ride up that way and leave pavement for a few days
Despite the sunshine, I'm getting a few rain sprinkles here. If it starts raining in earnest, I may need to take shelter somewhere around the Walking Box Ranch buildings just up the road. - Intermittent strong gusts of wind make taking down the tent a bit like launching a kite
The north wind creates a pleasant breeze on this rather warm morning. The only problem right now is that I'm almost out of water, but I'll be stopping at Kelso Depot to refill my supply in a while. - I walked around this mini-mesa on the way up Borrego Canyon; now it's time to walk up it
- It's not my routine to be breaking camp late in the afternoon, but here I am
I still have water remaining, probably enough for another day, given the cold weather. But perhaps not. - A third of a mile later, I arrive back at my campsite near Malpais Spring
I'm back a bit earlier than I expected. Hopefully no critters have discovered and burglarized my tent! - Across the road from the washrooms, a patch of phacelias bloom amidst a stand of junipers, pinon pines and yuccas
Most of Mojave National Preserve's Mid Hills campground here looked something like this before the 2005 brush fires. - West Edgar Canyon #3 makes a tight left turn just ahead, and continues to rise into the Providence Mountains
With more daylight hours, I'd keep on going; the best part might be just around the corner, who knows. According to my maps, I'm probably only half, or two-thirds, of the way up the walkable canyon. I should come back when the days are longer. - Numerous gulleys need to be crossed while hiking the fan betweeen Cornfield Spring Road and Rex Mine Road
A ribbon of yellow, desert willows about to lose their leaves, crosses the landscape in the biggest wash through this area. - This turns out to be a tight little slot canyon
How fun. I wonder how far it goes... I walk around the bend ahead. - Though dry as can be right now, the forces of water and erosion are clearly at work from time to time in Old Dad Canyon
It would be interesting to witness, but not be caught in, a flash flood here. - After breakfast, I take a shower and explore the rustic garden in front of the bed-and-breakfast
What a luxury it is to take a morning shower after more than a week of tent camping! The steering wheel on a post is a memorial for a guy named Ken Trongo: "let's see where this road goes." - Lots of debris surrounds the Macedonia Canyon cabin, including this old barbeque grill
In an urban area, this would probably be seen as just trash, but it's considered "historic trash" when found in an isolated area of Mojave National Preserve. What is an antique, and what isn't? - I pack my backpack and hike up the steep hill above Bluejay Mine and the Winkler's Cabin site
I take it slowly because it's over 450 feet of elevation gain in less than half a mile. The views back down to the valley are stupendous, despite the ominous clouds on the horizon. A few raindrops fall. - Does one ever see enough scarlet Indian paintbrush while hiking in the Mojave Desert?
It's a slightly uphill hike now, and my energy is just not kicking in yet. Maybe I needed to sleep more last night. Maybe I'm not yet inspired by the gentle topography here after yesterday's awesome hike in the Castle Peaks area. - Vegetation is slowly encroaching on the old Ivanpah railway grade
I've seen Mojave asters, Indian paintbrush and buckwheats growing along here. Here is a blooming paper flower bush (Psilostrophe cooperi). - The white blooms of Cliff rose line some stretches of the upper part of Malpais Spring canyon
Cliff rose looks like it might make a good garden plant. - The lower part of Gold Valley Mine Road passes through a sandy area
I have to dismount and walk the bike through parts of this, even though I'm still headed slightly downhill. - The scenic views, hills and rock piles on upper Gold Valley Mine Road would make it a good place to camp
The old road here does get used, but it is too difficult to invite much random traffic. - I pick up an animal trail leading toward Kelso Peak after the old 4WD road fizzles out
Like most animal trails, this one disappears after a short distance, then reappears. - Hiking route to Rex Mine and West Edgar Canyon #3 from Cornfield Spring Road campsite, Mojave National Preserve
10.8 hiking miles and 1575 feet of elevation gain. - I turn back and notice a grown-in, but relatively flat, spot near the still-invisible stream that I can hear
If I climb under this tree to get past it... - I climb down the steep hillside and notice the remnants of a switchback road on the other side of Cornfield Spring wash
OK, I'll cross the wash here, and maybe the old road will take me directly to the spring. A lot of work went into building those stone walls that are still keeping the road somewhat intact. - I walk out on the log that leads through the yerba mansa flowers to the fresh water at Pachalka Spring
I'm wearing my long pants because it's a bit chilly right now and they're protecting my socks from collecting a lot of burrs and grass particles. - A concrete stairwell and heavy steel door lead into the basement
Whatever this was, a lot of time and effort was spent on building it. In the distance is the pass near Crescent Spring on Highway 164, just inside the Nevada State line. - I decide to head over to the remnants of the Columbia Mine, those small orangish mounds in the distance
In the background is Columbia Mountain, behind which is the valley where I hiked a few days ago to Chicken Water Spring. It's hard to pick a hiking route here because of the small hills everywhere. - The fun ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road looks different today with the ominous clouds hovering above the Mid Hills
Otherwise, today's ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road starts out the same as my ride down to Wild Horse Mesa a couple of days ago. - It's already 84 degrees and I've cooled down as much as I can in Kelso Depot's air conditioning; it's time to ride on!
Before leaving, I fill my water supply for the day (four 1.5-litre bottles and my two-litre Camelbak) from the utility closet in Kelso Depot's basement, thanks to the rangers on duty. - Sunset finally approaches like I knew it eventually would; I've been imagining its arrival from inside my tent for a while now
It's still 93 degrees, and hotter than that in the tent. With the dimming of the hot sun blows a light breeze, so it's time to step outside and get as much less-hot air on my skin as possible. I stand and stretch. And stretch. - An upper valley along Dunne Avenue getting close to Henry Coe State Park.
An upper valley along Dunne Avenue getting close to Henry Coe State Park, whose entrance is more or less on top of the hills visible here. - Good things do come to an end, and I reach the bottom of Ivanpah Valley and the beginning of Morning Star Mine Road
It has been mostly downhill today from my Keystone Canyon campsite at 5300 feet to the bottom of Ivanpah Road at about 2650 feet. I turn left here and it will be uphill for the rest of the day. - I pull over to allow a car to pass by, the first one I've encountered down here by Broadwell Dry Lake
I've seen many recent vehicle tracks, and I could see a car on this road while hiking on the other side of Broadwell Dry Lake yesterday, but this is the first one I've come close to since leaving Ludlow two days ago. - Fluffy white stuff on a small barrel cactus at the top of Malpais Spring Road
A few wands of grass poke through. - A few mariposa lilies bloom in a rocky area at Mid Hills campground
Here I leave the campground road and start hiking cross-country over to Eagle Rocks. - An hour later, Pachalka Spring Road climbs up through a wash
I've been walking the bike off and on, but the gravel here has me in walking-only mode. I don't mind, as I was counting on a road that is absent from my GPS maps to be rough, or perhaps even impassable to some motor vehicles. - West New York Mountains Road, heading toward the east end of Pinto Mountain
I pass a few solar panels that must belong to someone or something. - After a fun, level half hour on the old Ivanpah railway, it's time to climb down and hike cross-country over to Willow Wash
Willow Wash is just in front of that hill ahead, about 1/4 mile away. I'll make a right turn there to start the hike up Willow Wash toward camp. - I pass some horizontal layers of rock on the way back to my bicycle parked near Borrego Canyon Road
- A rock outcrops juts out from the wall of Malpais Spring wash like an arrowhead
- Once past the big thicket, I climb back down into the Malpais Spring wash past a patch of orange desert mallows
I check my GPS and see that I haven't reached Malpais Spring yet, so I continue walking up the wash. - The outdoor sink at Nipton is decomposing after many years of service in the hot Mojave sun
I fill up my four 1.5-litre water bottles, my two litre Camelbak and my 10-litre water bag. I'm hoping to find water at Malpais Spring, my next stop, but I don't know for sure if there will be any. - I stash my bicycle behind some dead trees near the old Mojave Road and start the hike to nearby Pinto Mountain
The backpack comes out of my saddlebags and gets filled with supplies for a few hours: epipens in case of yellowjacket sting, sweater (which seems unnecessary, but one never knows), Clif bars, full water bottles, GPS, and camera. - Route of short Cornfield Spring Road day hike and ride down to Kelso Depot (Day 2)
5.1 hiking miles up Cornfield Spring Road and back with 650 feet elevation gain (and loss), plus 3.5 bicycle miles down to Kelso Depot and back. - OK, the long, slow, dreaded climb up Morning Star Mine Road is officially on
I've been at it for about half an hour now. It's not steep at a grade of one-to-two percent, but the relentless headwind and the heavy bike make for slow meditation as I move upward against gravity. - OK, I've checked out Live Oak Spring; now I'm going to try walking over the hills toward Mid Hills campground
I hope that by following some drainage areas on my maps I'll be able to make it down the other side of the hills and avoid the many treacherously steep areas of the Mid Hills. - I take a one-hour break and cool down in Kelso Depot's air conditioning before starting the climb up to Mid Hills campground
This lunch counter used to called "The Beanery" back in the old days and just reopened a couple of months ago. I chat a lot with the owner and drink some of his excellent ice-cold homemade tea, and a couple of cans of Coke for the caffeine buzz that I'll need to make it up to Mid Hills in today's heat. Oh, and two bags of potato chips too for some extra salt. - A splash of red from giant Indian paintbrush
- Willow Wash, where I'll be hiking in a while, is in front of that hill in the middle ground
I'm intrigued by the badlands between there and here on Bathtub Spring Peak. The badlands, like the peak here, are probably rarely visited. - It's steep, but I haven't run into any major obstacles yet: good!
Careful, careful... - The next stretch of the Barber Mountain Loop Trail dips down into a familiar part of Gold Valley
Here, I'm really close to the dirt road I rode from Mid Hills Campgrounds a few days ago, but I've never been in this area on foot before, which makes for a new experience. - The star of the show this evening is Backpacker's Pantry Beef and Broccoli Stir-Fry
This is one of my favorite add-boiling-water-to-bag meals. It's supposed to serve two people, but I find it's perfect for one hungry hiker-biker. - I slept so well last night here at the Ludlow Motel: the breakfast menu in my room invites me over to the café for FLUFFY
I don't order the FLUFFY, but instead order an omelet. It's good, but it's really just an excuse to have another one of Ludlow Café's tasty homemade biscuits. - The mile-long hike from Vanderbilt Peak pass to Indian Spring rolls gently up and down across drainages
It's surprising how much of the area is actually quite green, even though it looks brown from a distance. - Many large rocks are strewn about in the east fork of Beecher Canyon
It must be dramatic when one of these big rocks gets pushed down the canyon in a flash flood, or falls down from one of the steep adjacent hills. - It's really windy up here on Pinto Mountain, so I often find myself holding my hat straps to help keep the hat on my head
Despite the hot sun, the wind is keeping the temperature down in the 70s up here. - It looks flat, but the walk up the fan toward the Providence Mountains is a gentle uphill at about 4% grade
I hike briskly, enjoying the sunshine and the scenery, even though I feel like crap due to the flu-like symptoms of the cold I caught two nights ago. The sun is warm and I'm comfortable wearing just a T-shirt. - I'm up early, around 5h30 (practically unheard of for me), to slowly pack up and leave Pachalka Spring today
It was chilly overnight (mid 40s), but I slept well and am glad that I brought long underwear. I'm wearing a sweater and long pants this morning as I refill my water bottles and Camelbak. I have about 8 litres left. - Just as my route leaves the wash, I notice a bone fragment on the ground
I haven't seen any large mammals in the area yet, but it seems like the kind of place where bighorn sheep would live. I would expect to find deer and coyotes, and perhaps wild burros too. - Nearby is the metal skeleton of an old counter or stove
In true desert fashion, it has been shot up many times. - I take a peek inside the dugout at the old Thomas Place homestead
As I approach the dugout, a large bird flies out, but the interior is unusually free of debris for a wild place. I wonder if someone comes by and cleans this out from time to time? - And there is a nice secluded campsite up here, again with a juniper tree
This would be a great place to camp, with the view of Pinto Mountain in the background. But there's no water source nearby. - The toughest part for me is just before the bottom, where I'm left with no choice but to jump down a few boulders
Hiking solo in a remote area means that one must meet challenges and surpass one's usual limits carefully, not taking too many risks, and turning back if necessary. Your cell phone doesn't work here. - The vegetation on the foothills of the adjacent Kelso Mountains is striking with its silver-grey brush against yellow flowers
Here in late May, I'm past the flowering season for the vast majority of Mojave National Preserve plants, but these yellow flowers are still doing well. - Today's day hike will take me to an old mine site not far away, below the crags of New York Mountain in the distance at right
Breakfast is two cups of strong coffee, Maryann's "rice and tofu in a ginger-miso broth" (delicious), granola, tamari almonds, dried apricots, dried pears and chili-lime cashews. I'm glad to be eating backpacker food again after eating junk food for breakfast back at Nipton. On the top of the closer hill on the left sits the former Keystone Mine, which I won't be visiting today. - Abandoned something in Daggett, California
- I start backtracking a little, looking for a good campsite here in the Bristol Mountains foothills
I like a campsite with a view, but not so exposed on an open ridge that my tent will be whipped to death should strong desert winds pick up again. After half a mile, I think I've found a spot that suits me, so I park the 10-ton bike. - Just beyond the "Welcome to Nevada" sign is an "Area of Critical Environmental Concern" sign
Perhaps it's referring to the Wilderness areas that I'll pass soon. - Awesome sunset view from Mid Hills campground over to the subtle slope of Cima Dome
Kessler Peak rises up from Cima Dome at the right. - Bull Canyon widens a little after passing through the narrows
I keep walking up the canyon, wondering what might be around the next corner. A large covey of quail is frightened by my passing and their noises are quite alarming due to the echo effect in the canyon. - Enjoying the sunset to the left of Cowhole Mountain as I walk down the bottom of the road from Idora Mine Canyon
A little further ahead, I'll turn right on Old Kelso Road for the final half mile walk back to camp. - The road to Howe Spring, Mojave National Preserve, gets narrower
The sand on the road is usually not very deep, so I just ride through it. - I ride down the faint road from the Old Dominion Mine site at sunset
I'll turn right as soon as I reach Crucero Road, just ahead. - The first part of Indian Spring Road leaving Malpais Spring is nicely camouflaged beyond the Wilderness boundary
Someone did a great job scattering plant debris on the old closed road to discourage vehicles from accidentally driving in the Wilderness area. - After two miles, I reach Indian Spring and filter drinking water for the day
The water is cool and I'm relieved that it tastes good! I filter three 1.5-litre water bottles. I'll return here later for more water on the way back to camp. - The plateau at the top of Malpais Spring Road and a few old stretches of range fence receive the orange glow of end-of-day sun
There's white stuff on that barrel cactus; I'll take a closer look. - An interesting discovery!
Skull and teeth, probably from one of the area's well-known hillside warriors. - Rock wall at Cornfield Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I'm not sure if this is part of the old switchback road near the spring or independent of that. - It looks like someone started to remove the stove from the mobile home at Aiken Mine and then decided it wasn't worth pursuing
More wavy, water-damaged faux-wood walls in the dining room. - Closer to I-15, a fence along Excelsior Mine Road traps a lot of windblown garbage from freeway drivers
The Mojave Desert isn't always pretty. Prevailing winds from the south push trash from freeway drivers across the land until it reaches this fence. - Sunset glows around the distant Clark Mountain range tonight
I'll visit that area tomorrow; Pachalka Spring to be exact. I finally cook my add-boiling-water-to-bag supper, Mountain House Beef Stew. Delicious as usual. I hear a noise outside my tent, can't decipher it at first, but it proves to be a kangaroo rat playing hide-and-seek with me. This has happened previously while camping in this area, so I bring my Camelbak inside my tent, knowing that they are attracted to the moisture on the drinking nib. For dessert I listen to a pack of yipping coyotes a few miles away very busy with something. I also hear an occasional car speed by on Cima Road a half mile away. A few moths flit against my tent, but there are almost no flies tonight. The moon is bright tonight, illuminates the land, and rocks me to sleep, and it's not even a full moon yet. - I cross the power-line road and stare at its thread leading up the hill into the distance, toward Cima
I took a similar photo of these Mojave power lines during last year's Mojave National Preserve trip. - Sunset at Kelso also means removing the tent's outer flap to let the hottest air escape through the screen
The sun, almost burned out for the day, glows beautifully now. Heat wafts out of my tent, rising from the hot rocks of the desert floor beneath it, replacing the sun as a heat source, for a while at least. Everything inside the tent is so hot! - After a bit of searching, I locate what I believe is Willow Spring, in a grassy area shaded by nearly leafless Desert willows
I find a concrete cistern and slightly greener grasses, but no other sign of water, so I figure this must be the current incarnation of Willow Spring. - With relief, I'm back on the paved part of Ivanpah Road now and I'm letting the bike gain speed as I ride down the smooth hill
The bike is handling well and I'm starting to feel like it might do just fine for the rest of the trip provided I stay on pavement. I'm approaching the abandoned store that I visited on the way up the hill two days ago. - Table Mountain hike route
9.8 hiking miles and about 1800 feet of elevation gain. - Since it's steep, the downhill behind me from Table Mountain has passed rather quickly
- Direct sunlight down at Broadwell Dry Lake (here I come) is already gone for the day, blocked by the surrounding hills
Crucero Road doesn't look so sandy at dusk, but it's still awkward to ride, even downhill, especially now that I'm loaded down with 10-11 litres of water. But I'm getting better at it after a few days out here. - I climb back down the volcanic rock into the wash to resume my return hike down "South Broadwell Wash"
A small catclaw acacia pokes out of the rocks. - With Wild Horse Mesa in the backgound, I spot an oversized and eroded old tire along Woods Wash Road
This obviously belonged to something bigger than a passenger car. - I descend a little further toward the drainage and realize that, yes, it should provide a better descent than my ascent route
I take another break here to enjoy the spectacular views, before my descent causes them to disappear. My knee and shoe intrude into the photo. - In the shaded area, I stumble upon an archeological feature
I missed this on the way up the canyon because I was walking up the other side of the wash. - And voilà, there it is, the Macedonia Canyon cabin
Or whatever it is... maybe it's not a cabin at all, and just a storage shed. I'll climb up the hill and find out. - Wild Horse Canyon Road continues its twisty-windy descent, which is getting flatter
The washboarded road surface rattles my bones and keeps me from riding too fast. A couple of cows just crossed the road here. - I'm a bit stuck right here and will have to squeeze behind the manzanita (and other) brush here to reach the next step down
My arm and hat get charcoal stains from hugging a burned pinon pine on the way, but so far, so good. I hope I am not heading toward a drop-off that I won't be able to climb down? - My air-conditioning festival melts away when I refill my water supply at Kelso Depot and begin the ride back to camp
Staff at Kelso Depot always lets me refill my water from the basement utility closet since there's no public water tap outside. I was going to use the new garden hose outside instead, but apparently somebody broke it last night after I used it. Strange... it worked just fine when I used it. One of the rangers at the Kelso Depot front desk asks me if actually rode my bike on Cornfield Spring Road. I laugh and tell her that I have to hike the bike more often than not. - When I reach the base of the higher hill ahead overlooking Ivanpah Valley, it doesn't look like it will be as steep as expected
Onward and upward I go to the top of that hill ahead. Energy kicks in. Is it the energy bar I just ate? - But first, I'll stop to finish off this last delicious piece of orange-flavored chocolate
I hesitate to bring chocolate on warm-weather hiking trips because it melts and makes a mess. But the moderate temperatures so far on this trip make me happy that I brought chocolate this time! - I hike through an upland valley on the way back to my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road
The rolling hilltops surrounding me have panoramic views of the area, but here in between them, I have none. It's an interesting feeling. - On the fan are a few fence posts, also from "JHJ claims," like the ones on the other side of Broadwell Dry Lake
One of these is marked "87 x 111." - Looking north on the old T&T Railroad grade running down the middle of Broadwell Dry Lake
As with most railroad beds, it's gravel, so it wouldn't make a very good bicycling surface. However, the railroad bed is open to anyone who wants to drive it instead of the road skirting the west side of the lake that I used. - I'm hiking rather quickly, so every footstep around or on the rocks is an opportunity to slip and break an ankle
This hike doesn't have a lot of elevation gain, but the rocky surfaces demand a fair amount of focus. - I make a stop at one of the Wee Thump Wilderness signs along Nevada 164
I take a water-and-energy-bar break here and enjoy the scenery. Wee Thump Wilderness was designated in 2002. - A patch of Evening primrose grows adjacent to a juniper tree
A few tiny yellow Goldfields flowers, easy to miss, grow here too. - Now that I know there's good water here at Indian Spring, I'll be back tomorrow to fill up
I have plenty of water with me for today, so I walk past the old fence posts and continue hiking. - Beyond Indian Spring, I start hiking up the remnants of an old road that leads upward
Where will this take me? - I ride down the powerline road a short distance and begin looking for a campsite; wow, the heat has really fried me today
Only a few cars per day drive the powerline road, but I don't want to be too close to it, nor do I want to be too visible from nearby Kelbaker Road. On the other hand, I'm too lazy to ride too far down the powerline road, since I'll just have to ride back the day after tomorrow. - Excellent end-of-day light on the Providence Mountains as I walk up a steep hill to avoid one of the switchbacks on the road
I have another hour of excellent end-of-day light ahead of me, which always makes for rewarding hiking in the Mojave Desert. - The exact location of Cornfield Spring Road has moved a few times over the decades
Two long rows of rock parallel to today's Cornfield Spring Road delineate former edges of the road, now somewhat grown-in with vegetation. - I find myself in a narrow, shaded drainage
According to my GPS, this looks like it should be the wash that leads out of Live Oak Spring. - Atop the little hill, I get a better look at the Macedonia Canyon cabin
More oil drums scattered around here, as well as a torpedo-like object that looks like an old-style hot-water tank. - Paper-bag bush and verbenas are blooming in the heavily burned area near Bluejay Mine, Mojave National Preserve
I'm almost back down in the valley now; after a short walk, I'll be on my bike again and heading back to Mid Hills campground for the night. - Several of the Kelso Depot exhibits introduce visitors to various distinct areas of Mojave National Preserve
This one focuses on the rocky Mid Hills area, where I will go tomorrow to escape the heat down here in the Kelso Valley (Mid Hills' elevation is over 3000 feet higher than Kelso). - Sundown on the rocks
- I walk though the Cave Spring area again on this short and pleasantly aimless hot-weather hike
- After a quick breakfast and coffee, I start hiking, anxious to locate the old road that I couldn't find last night in the dark
The road to Old Dominion Mine is rather faint, but at least I can see now that it really does exist. - I knew I'd find a happy-birthday balloon sooner or later out here in the wilderness...
I find these in the most remote places... - The 10-ton bike and I wobble up Nipton Road away from the campground and pass a few antique buildings while leaving town
Back on the highway, I begin the next phase of this year's adventure. - On the way down into Beecher Canyon I find myself approaching a steep rocky drop-off
Hmmmm... what's the best way to climb down this drop-off? - Now that I'm on one of the low ridges north of Kelso Peak, hiking seems so easy again!
Great views of the cinder cones in the distance and I'm no longer experiencing that shaky feeling caused by vertigo. - This morning, after breakfast buffet at the Big Boy, I ride the bridge over the freeway and enter Mojave National Preserve
After filling up on food, I fill up on water from the Country Store, and am carrying a nice heavy load of about 18 litres, necessary in today's heat and to support my dry campsite tonight and tomorrow night. - After a bit of walking northwest across the fan, my "U" route is complete and I'm hiking east toward Idora Mine Canyon
The mining area is near, but not at, the top of the unnamed mountain ahead. The old road, which I'll join in a few minutes, switchbacks up the hill and is a non-Wilderness cherrystem into the Wilderness area. - Elevation profile of short Cornfield Spring Road day hike, Mojave National Preserve (Day 2)
5.1 hiking miles up Cornfield Spring Road and back with 650 feet elevation gain (and loss). - I walk back down the hill from the Aiken Mine equipment to examine a rock wall on the flats
A building of some sort apparently once stood here, probably dating back to Aiken Mine's early days. - Tank 3 is dry, like most of the old cisterns I've seen in Mojave National Preserve
The outer ring of this cistern looks like fairly modern concrete, but some of the inner rocks look like vestiges from an earlier construction. - The luminosity of sunset starts to set in on the Mid Hills, with Eagle Rocks in the distance
Mid Hills campground should be over on the middle ridge ahead of me, somewhere to the left. - Wild Horse Canyon Road junction, and Mid Hills campground is just two miles away
I'm getting close, but I'm quite pooped. I always feel like this whenever I approach Mid Hills campground. The best part is that I'm at 5275 feet elevation and it's noticeably cooler up here. - Desert-horned-lizard break! Quite different from my Clif-bar-and-water break a few minutes ago
I've just resigned myself to turn back and start walking back toward my tent when this lizard crossing the old road stops and shows off for me. Very cool. - I take a look behind me and realize I am slowly gaining elevation in Borrego Canyon
- Lots of rock, but coming down the hill has been feasible so far
Only a couple of minor dry waterfalls, easy to jump down. - This scorched pinon pine survived the 2005 brush fires here
- After another 10 lonely miles riding old Route 66, I arrive at the village of Daggett and ride down some of the side streets
Daggett is charming, but not prosperous (which is not always bad). I could probably afford to buy this house. - Elevation profile of hiking route to Broadwell Natural Arch, Bristol Mountains, Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area
15.8 hiking miles with about 1300 feet of elevation gain. - I drag myself out of my sleeping bag and step out into the cold sun to see where I am (I arrived here in the dark last night)
Product-placement photo for REI tents (fees not paid, LOL). I think I like it here near the former Old Dominion Mine, but I need more sleep. The sun shining on the tent is just enough to make it cozy inside. - Approaching the dry waterfall, this time in the downhill direction, a partial "staircase" begins the quick descent
A catclaw acacia blocks the view of the small drop-off ahead. - Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve to Nipton bicycle route elevation profile
27.2 bicycle miles, 1900 feet of elevation gain, 3500 feet of elevation loss. - On the way down through a floriferous area in Juniper Spring wash, I pass an especially bright juniper
Blue phacelias bloom under the shade of the juniper tree, and not beyond. Orange desert mallows outside the shade line provide major contrast. - Just above Malpais Spring is another thicket area with lots of willows, and these upright bushes that I don't recognize
Open areas between the thickets make it possible to hike easily further up the wash. - Baker to Kelso Peak powerline road elevation profile (Day 1)
24.7 miles, 2800 feet elevation gain - Part of Old Dad Canyon ahead is now deeply shaded from the midday sun
The juxtaposition of various earth textures contributes to making this an interesting hike. - Just beyond the cabin rests an abandoned old truck
There once was a time when this truck was modern, new, and state-of-the-art. - Coyote melon growing along the side of Excelsior Mine Road
It's sporting a couple of blossoms and a couple of young fruits, apparently inedible to humans. - Pachalka Spring Road was climbing slowly at 3-5 percent grade for a while, but now the grade is 5-10 percent
I hike the bike slowly, but steadfastly, taking many short pauses. I keep on rolling. I'm sweating a lot, but the semi-overcast day has helped a lot in keeping me from seriously overheating like I did down at the hotter Cornfield Springs area. - I climb up onto Wild Horse Mesa and revel in the views toward Beecher Canyon and Providence Mountains
I've circled this part of Mojave National Preserve many times, but I've missed out on the experience of the 360-degree views up here until now. - Information plaque on Mojave Road marker at junction of Cedar Canyon Road and Kelso-Cima Road
The old historic Mojave Road is today mostly a four-wheel drive track. Joe travelled most of the Mojave Road by bicycle a couple of years back; awesome trip! - I'm still a couple of miles away from Cornfield Spring when I notice a small clearing that might make a good campsite
I'm exhausted and not thrilled by the idea of hiking the 10-ton bike a couple more miles. The opening here in the creosote bush scrub is the perfect size for a campsite, so I stop here for the night. I can walk up to the spring tomorrow. - Wind blows rocks to the other side of the dry lake
- I'm almost down in the Bathtub Spring canyon now
Another short steep stretch to be taken carefully until I'm down there. - Sarah discovers a rock shelter at Teutonia Peak and tries it out
It works! - Borrego Canyon is quite pristine, except for the cow grazing and this fresh roll of barbed wire
Looks like someone constructing a range fence in the area hasn't finished the job yet... Since nobody ever comes back here, nobody is likely to steal the goods! - A few very early Desert mallow blossoms are about to open in this Sleeping Beauty canyon
I wonder if this area will be decorated with a lot of these flowers during the spring season, like some other Mojave Desert areas. - On my way down this Newberry Mountains wash, I stop at a joining side wash that I saw last night on the way here
I remember wondering if this side wash might be a better route than the main one that I chose to follow. I'll park the 10-ton bike here and go for a short walk to see if anything of interest is up that way. - Route 66 Newberry Mountains bicycle route
40.5 bicycle miles plus about 1200 feet of elevation gain. - I spot some kind of grasshopper in the gravel
It's almost invisible from a distance due to its granite-like colouring. - The interior mail slot taped shut, I follow the instructions and drop my mortgage payment in the mailbox outside
Another sign in the Cima post-office lobby mentions attempts to minimize disruption of service during some work that will be done here soon. - Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve to Nipton bicycle route
27.2 bicycle miles, 1900 feet of elevation gain, 3500 feet of elevation loss. - Stagecoach Well sits in the wash along the road to Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
There's an old windmill and water tank here at Stagecoach Well, but no water (I wasn't expecting any, but you never know). - Not much remains of the cabin in Old Dad Canyon except the floor and roof
And rusty bedsprings... - I rejoin Pachalka Spring Road and climb up the final 400 feet of elevation on the way back to the tent
My third and final night here at Pachalka Spring, that patch of bright green trees just ahead in this rocky landscape has quickly become a marker that signifies "home." - I notice what looks like an old metal cistern buried in the sands of Willow Wash
Has the cistern sunk in the sand over the years or has the sand level of Willow Wash risen to cover it? - I start walking back to my tent, wondering if maybe I should have ignored the gunshots and continued with my short hike
Maybe those gunshots weren't intended to scare me away. At any rate, this part of the road is much clearer than further down where I couldn't even find it in the dark a couple of nights ago. - I'm surprised when I find myself briefly hiking across a flat, prairie-like expanse in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness
While hiking across an alluvial fan, I expect to cross many deep dips caused by drainage from the mountains, but not flat areas like this. - As I approach the Daggett area, I notice this crumbling concrete structure not far from old Route 66
The Newberry Mountains, much of it federally designated Wilderness, sits in the background. - Several old cars and other antique Route 66 paraphenalia decorate the grounds of Barstow's Route 66 Motel
The rain seems to have stopped. Now I'm waiting for the sun to come out before I pack up and start this bicycle trip. - Barstow's downtown area has many older, modest dwellings built along desert hillsides
These older areas are picturesque compared to the bland suburban tract housing that surrounds them, and which dominate most of this small city. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Brant Hills to Baker via old Mojave Road, Mojave National Preserve
51.9 bicycle miles with 1600 feet of elevation gain and 4600 feet of elevation loss (exaggerated by the GPS software). - Pink-orange haze sets in over Nevada, east of my campsite near Malpais Spring
It's getting dark and I'm getting hungry; time to think about supper! - Great views eastward from the west end of Pinto Mountain
Those burned juniper trees on the Pinto Mountain crest look so small from here. - Heading down Rex Mine Road toward Kelso, a glimmer of red sunset light remains
About an eighth of a mile ahead, I'll turn right and hike across the fan to get back to my campsite on Cornfield Spring Road. - The 10-ton bike is back to weighing 10 tons and I ride up Button Mountain Road to rejoin Aiken Mine Road in a moment
Even though I hate to leave, I do like to leave camp by noon, and it's noon! This is my first time camping in this area and I hope to return on a future trip. - Beyond the campsite, the Black Canyon-Cedar Canyon shortcut road deteriorates
It's a fun mountain-bike ride, at least in the slight downhill direction that I'm travelling, but a motor vehicle would require a four-wheel drive and high clearance. - Downstairs in Kelso Depot is a model that shows how Kelso was back in the 1940s
I meant to take a photo of this when I was here yesterday, but somehow forgot to do so. Heat-induced senility. - Break time! A Clif bar, and more water, which is already rather warm
I'm in disbelief that I screwed up this short hike! If the sun weren't so hot and I weren't sweating so much, I would just continue to Cornfield Spring. I would also continue if I knew that the spring has a bit of water for me, but I don't know that. - A close-to-full moon sits above the Woods Mountains just before sunset on this hot day
The sun goes down, some significant, but warm, moderate winds pick up, and I make Backpackers' Pantry Chicken Vindaloo, tasty and spicy. Tomorrow will be my last night here; where should I go tomorrow on another hot day like today? I study my maps. - This lava outcrop along old Route 66 glistens in front of its Rodman Mountains Wilderness Area background
Being solid black, this must get really hot when it bakes in the summer sun. - Outside the Cima Store is a pay phone and a very worn sign telling us to preserve our desert (good message)
Since there is no cell-phone reception here, a pay phone is still useful to people with cell phones. Unfortunately, a similarly useful pay phone down at Kelso Depot was removed a few years ago. - The teeth obviously outlast the supporting bone matter when subjected to decomposition
Numerous other bone parts are scattered about in the area. - My, what big teeth you have!
There's some gum recession happening as well. - Gee, the Rex Mine boxcar cabins look so small from up here
I guess Kelso, down in the valley there, is where the miners who lived here went for groceries, back when Kelso was a real town with a store. - The suns feels good as it warms the chilly morning air on the fan near the former Kelso reservoir
The nasty cold I picked up two nights ago is still with me; sniffle, cough, extremely sore throat. It was chilly overnight, close to freezing but not quite. After sleeping in a bit and lazing around, I'm ready for the hike to Cornfield Spring by noon. - I pause briefly on the rough road to look back through the joshua trees at the Cima mining area in the background
Volcanic rock and ash is spread all over this area and it would be a scenic place to camp, if one could locate a good, flat spot without too many tent-damaging protruding rocks for a campsite. - I stop briefly to take in the views of the Clark Mountain Range behind me, where I camped the last three nights
A few raindrops fall. The sand on this part of Aiken Mine Road is just a thin layer on a packed surface, so the road is easy to ride here, with fat tires at least. - From the west end of Bathtub Spring Peak, I can see clearly down to Ivanpah Road, and over to the New York Mountains peaks
I think I can make out the faint traces that are the little road to Bathtub Spring, and the old Ivanpah railway bed. - Junk plays on TV at my room at the Route 66 Motel in Barstow
I hardly ever watch TV, so it's fun to look and see what people feed their brains every day. Goodnight! Looking forward to tomorrow's Amtrak bus and train ride back to San José after a short 2-mile ride to Barstow Station. - Taylor Spring should be somewhere around the next bend
As I noted earlier in the day around Malpais Spring, "no footprints here." - A glance to the west shows how the slope up the back of Pinto Mountain ends abruptly at the steep escarpment
I'll walk over there shortly; I'm walking in the opposite direction right now. - This tiny plant in a gravelly area reminds me of miner's lettuce; it's Oxytheca perfoliata (roundleaf puncturebract)
Thanks again for the plant ID, Lee. - I look around and notice a few bones scattered nearby
I keep scanning the area to see if there's anything else of interest nearby that I haven't seen yet. - Here's the low section that you have to crawl under to get in and out of the main room at the Lava Tube
I easily get claustrophobic, so I thought this might be awkward, but it's no big deal. - The road winds around another cinder-rock hill and I watch for a trail on my right leading to the Lava Tube, a known landmark
The Kelso Depot visitor centre has printed directions to the Lava Tube, but I didn't take one of their information sheets because I didn't plan to ride down this road during this trip. The Lava Tube is not marked on my maps. - The 10-ton bike is all packed up; after a few final sips of water, I'm ready to head down Pachalka Spring Road
I'm leaving the Pachalka Spring area via the slightly longer north road, whereas I arrived here via the south road. - I turn south on Ivanpah Road and am welcomed by this flash-flood warning sign
I have just over three miles of almost-flat road ahead of me, so I had better enjoy it while I have it! - The heavily weathered board-and-batten exterior of the Cima store is in need of restoration work
Hopefully this building won't be allowed to return to nature like many old houses around Cima. The historic Cima post office has been at this site for almost a century; the current postmistress and store operator has been here since the early 1960s. - Sunset haze drifts over the Ivanpah Mountains and the Clark Mountain Range beyond
I hope to make it over to the Clark Mountain area next week. For now I'll enjoy the sunset and perfect evening temperature from inside my tent, screened off from the flies and moths. Supper is Backpacker's Pantry Jamaican BBQ Chicken and Rice. The bit of spice is nice, but overall rather bland in flavour; too much taste of rehydrated vegetables. It's OK, but I can do better, I'll try not to buy this one again. I am treated to soothing breezes from time to time throughout the evening. High above these hills, phantom winds howl eerily, heard clearly, but usually not felt. I'm exhausted from the heat of the last couple of days and today's climb of almost 3500 feet. I fall asleep before 23h, a rarity for me. - Also downstairs at Kelso Depot is a gallery featuring work from a new artist-in-residence program by photographer Bob Killen
Really nice work, dramatic, and shows a strong personal vision, despite but the slick commercial edge. I chatted briefly with one of the people who organizes this art-in-residence program back in the Wills Fargo Motel parking lot in Baker. The program is a great idea. - In the backyard sits a small outbuilding
The wires leading to it tell that it even had electricity. - The Barber Mountain Loop Trail rises up a short, steep hill overlooking the hidden valley
Even on this short hill, I'm feeling the heat. It's nice to look back at the Lobo Point outcrop from up here. I haven't encountered any other hikers today so far.