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- A view of the Mitchell Caverns campground from a bit higher up shows how it's little more than a small, scenic parking lot
Several cars come and go during the day, especially around the hours of the Mitchell Caverns cave tour, but it looks like the other five campsites here will be vacant tonight again. - Concrete attached to the inside of a garbage can lid at the campground
I thought the lid felt a little heavy when I opened the can. The sometimes-strong wind here is obviously a known force to contend with. - I go for another short walk on one of the trails at Mitchell Caverns
One of these trails is quite short and has a brochure available to help to identify the plants growing here. - More cholla cactus
I like how the needles make the cactus look luminous. - The wind is picking up and I think it's going to be another noisy night in the tent with the tent walls flapping hard
After a relaxing campfire and supper, I crawl back into the tent to get some sleep. It's a chilly night again, but without the icy feel of the nights that I spent higher up in the mountains. It's ironic to have so much noise inside (from the wind) in such an otherwise quiet place! Again, the strong winds die down around midnight, to my relief, and I sleep fairly well. - After the 10-mile ride on Route 66 from Goffs to Fenner, I take note of a dirt road leading to the Providence Mountains
I could shave a few miles off today's ride by taking this road, but it would be much slower than the longer ride on pavement via Essex due to its soft texture. So I continue on Route 66 after a snack stop at the Fenner gas station. - I'm back at Essex, California again, after riding 16.5 miles down historic Route 66 from Goffs, California
I'm standing near the Essex post office looking northwest up Essex Road. It's amazing how the freeway traffic on I-40, which I crossed a while ago at Fenner, is so visible from here at Essex, even though it's 6.5 miles away. The Providence Mountains, my destination today, fill in the background. - Looking southeast from the Essex post office, down Sunflower Springs Road, a dirt road that rises up over the mountains
There's a lot of remote territory to explore back there, including several Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Wilderness Areas. - Crossing over I-40 again on the Essex Road bridge
That "tube of civilization" that I photographed yesterday is below me, and Mitchell Caverns is up in the Providence Mountains is behind me. - Back at the junction of Essex Road and Black Canyon Road, I ride straight through toward Mitchell Caverns
No need to ride back up toward Hole-in-the-Wall or Mid Hills Campgrounds today. - The final five-mile stretch of Essex Road to Mitchell Caverns (Providence Mountains State Recreation Area)
There's no traffic and I can't see yet where the State Park sits at the end of the road in the shadow of the mountains. The road rises from just under 3000 feet to 4300 feet elevation. Providence Mountains State Recreation Area is a small State Park that's entirely surrounded by the federally-operated Mojave National Preserve. - The last mile or two before Providence Mountains State Recreation Area gets steeper
I'm in the shadow of the mountains now. The road steepens. and pedaling gets slower and slower. The last mile really gets me. I'm just keeping up 3.5 miles per hour. I finally arrive, check in at the Park office, and buy a box of wood for a campfire later on, a luxury I wasn't expecting. It's almost dark when I get around to setting up the tent. High winds up here make setting up the tent a real challenge and it takes me almost half an hour. It normally takes me just a few minutes to assemble. I tightly hold on to my freestanding tent (or is it a kite?) while I amass a collection of large rocks to put inside the tent on the north-facing side. All small, lightweight objects get packed back into my saddlebags, just in case the tent rips open and things start blowing away. After my campfire, trying to fall sleep inside the forever flapping tent proves to be the next challenge. I haven't camped in such high winds before and am hoping my inexpensive little Peak1 Aries tent will survive (and me with it). Preoccupied with the wind, I forget to notice that it's a rather chilly evening, but I'm getting used to that by now. Fortunately, desert weather can change rapidly. The high winds calm down significantly by midnight and I eventually fall asleep without too much difficulty after all. My tent has survived! - Essex Road has been rather desolate so far, so it's amusing to ride over the tube of civilization that is Interstate 40
I started at around 4500 feet elevation this morning and now I'm at 2100 feet. It doesn't seem like I've descended that much; none of this downhill has been steep, but it has been relaxing and enjoyable. - On Essex Road, it's 6.3 miles past Interstate 40 to the nearly dead town of Essex, California at the base of the distant hills
Essex Road drops a little, from 2100 feet to about 1700 feet at Essex. - Closer to Essex, I pass the "This is IT" RV park, and not much else
There doesn't seem to be much activity at "This is IT" at first glance. - Still on Essex Road, I look back at the IT RV Park and a number of trailers or buildings which weren't apparent while riding by
Maybe there are some folks living at "This is IT" after all. The Clipper Mountains, largely within the Clipper Mountains Wilderness, sit in the foreground, with the Providence Mountains (Mitchell Caverns) in the background. - The village of Essex on historic Route 66 is that collection of buildings a mile or so ahead
Essex Road ends there at Old Route 66, but it's possible to continue beyond up the dirt road that rises into the hills (Sunflower Springs Road). - Abandoned café and gas station at Essex
Surprisingly, the phone booth here is still in operation! - On the other side of Route 66 from the Essex post office sits this old house, which appears empty
The closest store is at Fenner, 6.5 miles northeast, where Route 66 crosses Interstate 40. I need to get some water, so I start riding up Route 66 in that direction. - The Essex post office next to the abandoned café and gas station
The Essex post office is still open. When it closes in a year or two, there will be no services at all left in Essex. A few people still live here. I stop in to buy a few stamps for postcards and have a good chat with the postal clerk, who has been working here since the mid-1960s. He's happy that there has been some effort to record the area's history in recent years. - Bright sun warms up this cold November morning at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, Mojave National Preserve
Again, I didn't sleep well last night due to the cold. I make a nice hot breakfast of Mountain High vegetable curry, which I decide is not their best backpacking meal, but it does hit the spot. - Fenner, California is mostly just this big gas station serving freeway traffic from Interstate 40
I've read that there was once a small town here at Fenner, but it apparently faded away over the years as many desert towns do. I stop here to pick up a few overpriced supplies and carry on. - The water taps at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground are still functional this morning
You never know when cold weather might cause water lines to freeze... Hole-in-the-Wall is really scenic, flat and open, and framed by wild-West mesas and hills. However, it's the only RV-friendly campground in Mojave National Preserve, so it can be full of noisy campers during warmer months of the year. I usually prefer the RV-unfriendly Mid Hills Campground seven miles up the road for this reason. - One final view of my campsite at Hole-in-the-Wall campground, Mojave National Preserve, before I pack up and leave
The campground is empty today, which of course I'm enjoying. Perhaps I should just stay here today and climb some of the surrounding hills that are calling me... - Goffs, California on old Route 66
This abandoned house looks like it's been sitting here like this for years. - The 10-ton bike is all packed up and we're leaving Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, Mojave National Preserve
Most importantly in this dry environment, I've filled up my water bottles before leaving. - From "downtown" Goffs, California, a dirt road called Mountain Springs Road runs south, connecting to Essex
A sign warns that the road is not maintained. - After exiting Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, I gradually descend Black Canyon Road southbound toward I-40
This part of Black Canyon Road is paved, the first pavement I've ridden in a couple of days. Effortless, rapid and pretty. At first there are a few Joshua trees, but then no more. - The Goffs General Store has just closed for the day (I wasn't expecting it to be open anyway)
I don't see a single person in town. The storekeeper is leaving after closing up for the day, so I ask him where a common camping spot might be in the the general area. He says that it's fine for me to pitch my tent on the property, so I do. Thank you! Actually, I was expecting to ride a few miles up Ivanpah Road back into Mojave National Preserve and camp somewhere there. But with the end of day approaching very quickly, and I've already ridden 40 miles today, I take advantage of the storekeeper's offer and camp in the carport out of the chilly evening wind. I think this is the first time I've pitched my tent on a concrete slab, and it feels bizarre. I heat up a pouch of lamb curry for supper under the carport (which doesn't feel very camper-like!) - After buying water at the Fenner gas station, I ride 10 miles further up Route 66 and arrive at Goffs, California
Goffs, California is really tiny, with only about 20 inhabitants. Here are their mailboxes. The Providence Mountains lurk high in the background on the left. - The old Goffs school house property
The old school house is being restored and the property being set up as a museum. Unfortunately it's closed today. A lot of volunteer work has gone into this project. - Black Canyon Road winds through the Colton Hills as it approaches Essex Road
I'm back in low-elevation creosote bush scrub now. This road is fairly well-travelled, but these hills are probably not often visited, and might make a good stop for a day hike (though I don't have time today). - At the foot of Black Canyon Road, Essex Road is reached
Turning right (northwest) leads to Mitchell Caverns (Providence Mountains State Recreation Area) after five miles; turning left (my route) leads to Interstate 40 and historic Route 66. - Looking northwest up Essex Road from the bottom of Black Canyon Road toward Mitchell Caverns and Providence Mountains
This isn't my route today, but perhaps I can come back here later; this looks like a worthwhile area to explore. - Cedar Canyon Road crosses the historic Old Mojave Road
The Old Mojave Road runs parallel to nearby Cedar Canyon Road in much of this area. - Taken east to west, Cedar Canyon Road is a slow route due to its occasional deep wash crossings, and ever-so-slight uphill
Gradually, my speed on Cedar Canyon Road slows to about 6.5 miles per hour and, oh, I remember this area so well from last year's ride out here, when it was already dark. - Kitty-litter sand and gravel on Cedar Canyon Road in the Watson Wash area
I have to walk the 10-ton bike in some of the areas like this if there's not enough traction. - Further beyond Watson Wash, Cedar Canyon Road rides across firm ground again
Of course, there's still plenty of that teeth-rattling washboard texture on the road. - Pinto Mountain decorates the views northward from Cedar Canyon Road as I enter the Mid Hills area
If I didn't have to think about practical issues like refilling my drinking water tonight, this might be a nice place to stop and go for a hike. - Patches of light snow survive from last night on the north side of hills facing Cedar Canyon Road in the Mid Hills
The sun is starting to go down and it's already partly hidden behind these hills. I feel an instant chill. I'm still pedalling uphill and sweating a bit, but my feet are getting cold. I put on my overshoes. - Sunset on Pinto Mountain, Mid Hills, Mojave National Preserve
This is always my favourite time of day to be out on my bike, despite the chill. After dark, it keeps getting colder as I approach Mid Hills Campground. So I decide to skip Mid Hills and ride seven miles downhill on Black Canyon Road to Hole-in-the-Wall Campground. It's 1000 feet lower there, and perhaps a bit less cold. When I pull into Hole-in-the-Wall Campground and pay the fee at the entrance kiosk, I pass a couple from Minnesota who say, "He's touring!" They're not on their bicycles on this trip, but they've done a lot of bicycle touring, so I end up spending much of the evening at their campsite chatting and trying to stay warm by their campfire. It's probably as cold here at Hole-in-the-Wall as it was up near Keystone Canyon last night. The campground is largely empty tonight, and the water taps are still functioning (not frozen). - The frost is especially thick on my bicycle tires
My sleeping bag wasn't adequate for last night's cold, but now that the sun's up, I'm happy to be here again. There's just enough heat that I manage to fall back asleep. I get up for good at 9h30. - Morning frost at sunrise at Trio Mine Road near Keystone Canyon
I don't usually get up at sunrise, but I'm sleepless from the cold. I was awake at 3h to make something hot to keep myself from freezing. The yellow rays of sunrise and the light frost on my tent and bike make for a beautiful morning. - After a hot ramen breakfast and fixing my flat tire, I go for a short walk in the area of my Trio Mine Road campsite
I haven't seen nor spoken to anyone since yesterday afternoon. So I'm astonished when two cross-country horse riders, ignoring the little road through the area, break the silence and pass by while I'm packing up. We wish each other a cheerful "good morning" and continue on with our activities. I wonder if they're doing a horsepacking trip, but I'm so surprised to see them that I forget to look at the gear they're carrying. - Trio Mine Road, on the way back to Ivanpah Road, 1/4 mile or so away
Despite the cold, I really like this landscape. There are even a few juniper trees growing here, which makes it feel very different from the lower desert areas. I could easily spend more time here exploring. There should be some old mine ruins just up the road. However, I don't have all that much water left, so I need to pack up and get to Mid Hills Campground by the end of the day before I run out. - I ride down the almost imperceptible slope of Ivanpah Road toward Cedar Canyon Road
Cedar Canyon Road will be about 11 miles down from Keystone Canyon Road and 800 feet lower. I stop along the way to tighten the bolt of my rear rack, which had come loose and announced itself with a loud clunk. - Street sign in the Mojave Desert at the junction of Ivanpah Road and New York Mountains Road
The New York Mountains sit in the background; last night's campsite next to Trio Mine Road is off to the right in this photo. Further down, near Cedar Canyon Road, I stop at the hard-to-find phone booth to call a friend and a neighbour to let them know that my trip is going well. The neighbour is almost paranoid about me travelling alone (he watches too much TV), while my friend who grew up in dry country doesn't find the idea scary at all. - This very gnarled old tree on Cedar Canyon Road gets my attention
I'm not always paying quite as much attention to the landscape here as I might, due to washboard texture of the road that occasionally requires my focus. I'll rise slowly for the rest of the day from about 4100 at the junction of Cedar Canyon and Ivanpah Roads to about 5400 feet on Black Canyon Road near Mid Hills Campground. - For about six miles, Cedar Canyon Road heads straight westward, after which several sharp corners appear in the road
This short stretch of Cedar Canyon Road points north toward the New York Mountains before turning sharply left and aiming west again. - I leave Nipton and start the 12-mile crawl Nipton Road hill toward the Nevada border and Crescent Peak beyond
It's still a bit cold this morning, but the sunshine feels good and the wind has died down. Fortunately, it appears to have cleared up a bit in the mountains too, where I'm going today. Looks like great bicycling weather, at least during the daylight hours! I have coffee at the Nipton store and end up chatting with the owner there. I take him up on his suggestion that I head to the New York Mountains via Nevada Highway 164 and Walking Box Ranch Road, instead of via Ivanpah Road as I had first planned. After a nice hot "outdoor" shower at Nipton and some breakfast, I'm on my way up the hill. - Looking back down at Nipton as I climb slowly
After climbing a bit, it's fun to look back down at Nipton in the Ivanpah Valley. Starting on an uphill with no warm-up first is not really the best way to get the day going, but, as the song says, "I will survive." - Pinkish gravel on Hart Mine Road; the New York Mountains are not too far away now
Not enough gravel to make bicycling too difficult. - New York Mountains not too far off in the distance; looks a bit snowy over there...
I'll be camping at the base of those mountains tonight and I'm a bit concerned about the weather conditions I might run into. - Passing by the three-house settlement of Barnwell
It's hard to tell if anyone lives at Barnwell or not. There's no snow (yet) at this corner of the New York Mountains. This marks the end of the Walking Box Ranch/Hart Mine Road route. I turn left here down Ivanpah Road for a just over a mile. - Welcome to Nevada!
The sign says it all. Actually, I won't be in Nevada for long. In a few miles beyond the summit, I'll start the ride up Walking Box Ranch Road, which reenters California, and then Mojave National Preserve. - Approaching the base of the New York Mountains, I ride a mile on Ivanpah Road, looking for the road to Keystone Canyon
Keystone Canyon is part-way up the New York Mountains ahead. It's clear that there's already some snow up there, so I won't attempt climbing too much higher into the hills than this. - Nipton Road, now Nevada Highway 164, rises through a pass between the New York Mountains and the McCullough Mountains
The views down toward Nipton and the Ivanpah Valley disappear behind me for good. I'm working up a sweat on this climb, but the wind is chilly enough that I almost feel cold. I peel off my outer sweater for a while, but put it back on as soon as I reach the 4900-foot summit and start riding downhill again. Gee, I've climbed 1900 feet already today? The downhill is fun and I'm cautiously counting my mileage to Walking Box Ranch Road to make sure that I don't miss it, in case it's not signed. - At the bottom of the remote, cold and eerie Keystone Canyon Road, I look for a spot to pitch my tent
Awesome landscape, but I don't want to ride any further into the cold clouds and snow flurries that I can see just up the road. I follow a side road, which seems to be the road to the old Trio Mine, and set up camp here. I get a rear flat tire when I roll my bike over a big Joshua-tree sprout that is as tough as a dagger. What's left of daylight disappears and after a few hours of darkness, I realize that it's damn cold here. It feels colder than it was up at Mid Hills Campground a few nights ago, and it was in the low 30s then, so I'm guessing it must be in the high 20s F. The clouds that made the end of day so gloomy clear out suddenly after a few hours. The exposed moonlight tells me that a short walk out in the dark would be splendid, except that I'm really cold right now and didn't bring warm-enough clothes for this. I'm not sure how well I'll sleep tonight. - Walking Box Ranch Road turns out to be easy to locate on Nevada Highway 164
Walking Box Ranch Road is a decent dirt road that seems to have been covered with pavement long ago. Some folks I had chatted with at Nipton called it the "molasses road," referring to the road's surface. I stop here to put on my outer shell and booties, to warm my cold feet. The New York Mountains sit on the distant horizon, some 1100 feet higher from here. - Views of the New York Mountains (today's destination) while heading west on Walking Box Ranch Road
Walking Box Ranch Road seems almost flat, but it does rise slowly, with a few little humps like these along the way. Dark clouds have moved in and obscured the sun, and the temperature feels like it might be dropping. - Walking Box Ranch Road passes fairly close to the Castle Peaks, which are visible from Nipton down below on the other side
Castle Peaks are actually part of the New York Mountains, but their lower stature makes them seem separate from the taller formations west of Ivanpah Road. Castle Peaks is a recommended hiking area, and I consider ending today's trip somewhere along here, but I already have the idea of camping closer to Keystone Canyon planted in my mind. So I continue. - There are a few sharp turns on Walking Box Ranch Road
A little bit of sunshine is still getting through... - Taking a Joshua-tree break on Walking Box Ranch Road
I'm starting to feel a chill, but the slight climb is keeping my body working just enough to stay warm. I took my booties off a while ago, but I may have to put them back on over my sneakers soon. - After that previous sharp curve on Walking Box Ranch Road, it looks like there might be another one ahead
I'm in a bright semi-sunny spot here with dark clouds surrounding me. - Ominous dark clouds overhead!
Somewhere along here, Walking Box Ranch Road becomes Hart Mine Road, but I haven't seen a road sign mentioning that. - One of the tent cabins at Nipton
It would be interesting to rent one of these on a cold night and have some heat during the evening - My Nipton campsite
My campsite is actually an RV site, complete with hookups, but since there are no RVs here right now, I'm camped in a parking spot. Another nice sunny morning with clouds floating around; still cool and windy though. I take the morning lazily, take a much-needed shower and drink several cups of coffee from the Nipton General Store to get going. A chat with Gerry, Nipton's owner, has me convinced to try riding up the Walking Box Ranch Road tomorrow, which I hadn't planned. - The historic Hotel Nipton building
I love the rustic cactus garden in front of this bed-and-breakfast. There's another such garden just off to my right. - The shower building (quonset hut) at Nipton
With fiberglass walls, it's not quite an outdoor shower, nor is it quite an indoor shower. - Inside the rustic Nipton shower building, dirt floors and all!
The dirt floors (or maybe I should say "sand floors") add a special character. Fortunately, there are wooden platforms outside the shower stalls so that you don't get your feet dirty after getting out of the shower. These showers are free for campers and can be used by folks passing through for a small price (five dollars?). People staying in the bed-and-breakfast don't use these; they have their own facilities inside the hotel. - Picnic table behind the Nipton campground
Those jagged hills are the Castle Peaks, which are inside the Mojave National Preserve (Nipton is just barely outside the Preserve). Castle Peaks is one of those spots that's on my very long list for a possible future visit. - Nipton General Store and the café building
The café is the building on the right. - Nipton Road crosses ugly I-15
I go on my day ride, climb a hill, and end up at I-15, nine miles away from Nipton. - Looking down into Ivanpah Valley, west of the I-15/Nipton Road interchange
At the end of Nipton Road, on the other side of I-15, exists a network of backroads, some of which lead to Wilderness Areas managed by the BLM (Bureau of Land Management). - Riding down the old road just west of I-15
I ride just a mile or so to get a taste of what the area looks like in case I decide to venture into the area beyond one day. This is my "day off" and I'm not intending to do serious distance or climbing today. It is a very scenic area, but significantly marred by the presence of the freeway passing through. To seriously enjoy this area, I would need to continue on much further, which I'm not prepared to do today. - Cattle-guard on Nipton Road at I-15
I turn around and head back toward Nipton, crossing the freeway again and riding over this cattle-guard along the way. Nipton is down in the valley below on the left (not quite visible in this photo), about nine miles away. - Top of Nipton Road, looking back toward "town"
Nipton is that little spot off in the distance on the way up to the hills in the background. I have a great downhill ahead of me to conclude today's short ride. Haze, sunshine and clouds intermingle in the sky. By 17h, dark clouds, heavy winds and a few sprinkles arrive at Nipton, but by 19h the bad weather system has cleared out, leaving only cold, clear skies and a full moon behind for the rest of the night. - Leaving Mid Hills Campground
It was cold last night, so I get up at 7h as soon as there is promise of a bit of warmth from the awakening sun. It is a slow, relaxing morning under the cold sun making morning tea and brown-rice ramen soup, and I even take time out to smoke a small, tasty bowl of McClelland's #2050 for dessert. - Heading back down the upper part of Wild Horse Canyon Road with a great view of Round Valley beyond
I clearly remember this delightful view from last year's trip out here. - At the bottom of my glorious downhill on Morning Star Mine Road, I meet the junction of Ivanpah Road on the way to Nipton
I turn left and ride a couple of miles to meet up with Nipton Road. - Descending Black Canyon Road to Cedar Canyon Road at the bottom
Upper Black Canyon Road here is a bit sandy, as I know from having ridden it in the uphill direction in complete darkness last year. Fortunately, I'm heading downhill today! - Heading down Nipton Road for the last five miles before reaching town (that blotch of a few buildings off in the distance)
I'm almost there, just a few more miles... - Stopping under a Joshua tree on Cedar Canyon Road
I ride three miles along Cedar Canyon Road, which is rather washboarded and sandy. I've managed to ride most of it without stopping and walking, but it is difficult here and there. - Full moon over Nipton
I reach Nipton at sunset, have a chat with the storekeeper and pay for my campsite. She gives me some laundry soap for my wash tonight--I don't want to buy a whole big box of the stuff (last year when I was here she gave me a few tea bags). I have time before closing to grab a combo BBQ plate at the café next door, delicious pork, turkey and beef with negligeable side dishes. I buy some Corona beer from the store at the 18h closing time and go about doing my laundry and enjoying the full moon before clouds roll in to cover it up and huge winds blow in to rattle my tent for a while (as if it needed it). Light snow is forecast tonight for the surrounding mountains, and it might translate into a bit of light rain for those of us down in the valleys. - Now on Death Valley Mine Road, I cross the junction of the old Mojave Road
Before starting up this road, I check my maps twice because this looks so remote and untravelled, perhaps not even a road. I will have almost seven miles to ride until I reach pavement again. But this is it, and it's great out here. - Death Valley Mine Road is almost just a trail in places
Death Valley Mine Road has a remote feel to it. Not a great place to get stranded. It's difficult here and there where it crosses a sandy wash, but most of it has enough traction for me to ride it. - Death Valley Mine Road is also rocky in places
But the rocky spots do provide some much-needed traction. Many of the rocks are pinkish quartz which adds to the luminescent quality of the landscape. - At the end of Death Valley Mine Road, I hit patches of deep sand on the Cima Road
It's slightly downhill from here to pavement at Cima, almost three miles away. I have to drag the bike through some of this sand, but it's ridable in between sandy stretches. - Beautiful open views across the Joshua tree forest on the way down to Cima
Cima Dome is visible from here behind that Joshua tree on the left; it's that ever-so-gentle curve on the horizon that constitutes the barely perceptible dome. That rocky mound straight ahead is Teutonia Peak, which I haven't hiked yet. - Close-up of the Cima Store and post office
I ring the bell and the shopkeeper, an older woman, comes out and opens the store. After buying a can of Mountain Dew and an Almond Joy bar (junk food for the granola man!), I go to the post office next door to mail a postcard to a friend. Well, it's her again, running the post office as well as the store, with separate exterior entrances for customers. Hello, goodbye, hello! We chat a bit, which is nice because I haven't spoken to anybody in a couple of days. She talks about her grand-children, who are adults now. - I reach the pavement of Kelso-Cima Road and the Cima Store
There doesn't seem to be any residences here at Cima, just this combination store/post office. - Beginning the ride down Morning Star Mine Road toward Nipton
I'm up around 4000 feet right now and will descend down toward 2500 feet. - Grand views of the Ivanpah Valley open up as I descend Morning Star Mine Road
I have a tail wind and reach 38.5 mph as I go down (a record for me), with extended stretches over 30 mph. - Morning at Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
I didn't take any photos when I got here last night, so it's time to catch up! Lots of pinon pines, banana yuccas, sagebrush and junipers up here. - Huge old juniper tree near my campsite at Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
One doesn't always associate juniper and pine trees with the Mojave Desert, but there are plenty of these trees up in the desert mountains here at Mid Hills Campground at 5500 feet. - These mountain-desert trees don't provide as much shade as you might get from big trees in a moister climate
There's a singular beauty to the gnarled starkness of these old trees up in the Mojave Desert mountains. - An old, crusty juniper by my campsite offers the perfect sit-down for a late-morning pipe
Coffee was good, my simple breakfast was good, and shortly I'll be heading down Wild Horse Canyon Road on a scenic, lightweight day ride. - I ride southward down Wild Horse Canyon Road away from Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
The dirt road winds around and over a series of hills as it descends 1000 feet, with sharp peaks of the Providence Mountains in the distance. If you've come to Mojave National Preserve in a motor vehicle with a bicycle in tow, Wild Horse Canyon Road makes for an excellent mountain-bike ride. - Wild Horse Canyon Road meanders over the hills
There are plenty of little ups on the way down. - I stop briefly at the top of Macedonia Canyon Road, though I won't be riding down that road today
Macedonia Canyon Road descends through the mountains down to the Kelso Depot area. I would like to ride down that route one day, but it looks sandy and is probably only feasible in the downhill direction with a 10-ton bike. - The lower part of Wild Horse Canyon Road passes interesting geological features like Wild Horse Mesa
The scenery in this area looks like an excerpt from an old wild-west movie. - Heavy sand appears on the lower parts of Wild Horse Canyon Road
Wild Horse Canyon Road is periodically graded, which gives the road the appearance having been carved out by a snow plow. Only two cars have passed me here on Wild Horse Canyon Road. - A horse grazes at the bottom of Wild Horse Canyon Road
Some of the land around here is ranch land, so I'm guessing that this horse is not wild, despite the name of the road. - At the end of Wild Horse Canyon Road, I start up Black Canyon Road, which is paved for half a mile or so
Hole-in-the-Wall Campground is just off to my left and I pull in there to fill up my water bottle. - Just beyond the end of the pavement, Black Canyon Road crosses a cattleguard
I turn back here to take in the views of the valley below down in the direction of old Route 66. I'll probably ride down that way tomorrow. - Black Canyon Road climbs slowly the next eight miles toward Mid Hills Campground
I even pass a couple of cars along this stretch of road. - An antique sign for the Cima Store 10 miles beyond sits at the top of Black Canyon Road
How old is this well-weathered sign? I turn around and look across the road before heading back to camp. - At the top of Black Canyon Road, I go left on Wild Horse Canyon Road for the last couple of miles back to Mid Hills Campground
Here, I get on the upper part of Wild Horse Canyon Road and return toward Mid Hills Campground a couple of miles to the west. A little daylight remains when I get back to Mid Hills Campground, so I ride the road through the campground and note that only three of the other 20-some campsites are occupied. I settle in at my campsite for another instant meal: Mountain High "spicy chicken stir fry and rice." I really like the reconstituted green beans in these meals, a tasty meal overall. Heavy winds move in after dark, making noises like loud traffic, sometimes forcing my tent to suck in and out. Sometimes the whirring sound of the wind just passes overhead and doesn't actually touch down and move my tent around. I go for a late-night walk, casting shadows under the full moon, to fill my water bottles in case the taps freeze up again tonight. The thermometer shows 32 degrees F (0 C). Back in the tent, I'm cold, bundle myself up with clothing and fall asleep to the roars of the wind overhead that envelop my tent once in a while. - At Kelso Depot, I turn north on Kelso-Cima Road and ride 14.4 miles: more slow uphill, back up to 3800 feet
I took another break at the abandoned Kelso Depot at 2100 feet before heading up Kelso-Cima Road. I was going to eat some dried apricots there, but a bee was buzzing around me and I didn't want a repeat of last year's experience here of being literally chased by a bee. While at Kelso Depot, I had an interesting chat with a local area woman (not everyone out here in the desert is a tourist). Now heading up the slight hill of Kelso-Cima Road, I'll turn off on Cedar Canyon Road and ride up into the Mid Hills when I reach 3800 feet. The Marl Mountains stand out on my left; I just passed the other side of them on the way down into Kelso Valley. - Continuing uphill on Kelso-Cima Road, looking ahead
Kelso-Cima Road is one of those typical desert hills that are so subtly uphill that you'd barely notice the rise while driving a car, but when you are pedaling it, it seems to go on forever. I have a major headwind here, so the subtle uphill is proving to be demanding. Mid Hills Campground, today's destination, is up near the top of those mountains to the right. It gets dark while I'm still on Kelso-Cima Road, with a dozen miles to go. I turn on my headlight once in a while if I see a car coming or if I need to see a sign; otherwise I'm riding mostly by moonlight. The Cedar Canyon area is really pretty by moonlight! I'm focusing on the slow, uphill ride and won't take any more photos until tomorrow morning. I'm exhausted and sweaty as I slip-slide up the final few sandy miles of Black Canyon Road, then Wild Horse Canyon Road in the dark. I'm happy that there's no traffic whatsoever because I'm often riding in the middle of the road to avoid the sandiest areas. I grab site #5 at Mid Hills Campground and change into a dry T-shirt (it's cold and windy up here, and I'm suddenly shivering!) I boil some water and get my instant meal (Mountain House beef teriyaki with rice) steeping while I set up the tent. The high winds make trying to fall asleep in the noisy tent impossible until they die down around midnight. I wake up several times during the night from the cold as the moon gets brighter. I go for a walk to check the thermometer at the park entrance, which reads 31 degrees F (-1 C). I'm thirsty and try to fill my water bottle from the tap, but nothing comes out; it must be frozen. I retreat to the tent for more sleep. - A few miles up Kelbaker Road, I stop for a short break along the edge of the lava beds
Nice boulders all over the place. I'm still trying to get used to the unwieldiness of the 10-ton bike. - A little further up the road, I climb up the edge of one of the lava flows to get a better view of the area
Last night's campsite is just off the left edge of the photo by those nearby hills. - I make another stop in the lava-flow area, this time at Black Tank Wash
I'm intrigued by this area, but I'm not carrying enough water to dry camp in a place like this tonight. - Beyond the old lava, Kelbaker Road continues to rise slowly
Looking back at the long, gentle hill that I've climbed, and am still climbing. - Looking back down behind me on Kelbaker Road as I approach the summit at 3800 feet
I'm well past the lava beds now, and I have a good view of the cinder cones off Aiken Mine Road in the distance. I take a water-and-snack break at the Kelbaker Road summit. - Once over the 3800-foot summit of Kelbaker Road, I start the 12-mile glide down to the abandoned Kelso Depot at 2100 feet
Though long, this downhill isn't steep. It winds around some hills (Marl Mountains and Kelso Mountains) that block what would otherwise be big views into Kelso Valley at the bottom. It's a fun ride down, as I still have a tailwind. I ride for extended periods at over 30 miles per hour. - I ride into Mojave National Preserve up Kelbaker Road away from Baker, California
I apparently forgot my helmet on the Greyhound bus, so I bought a hat at the general store in Baker before leaving town so that I'd have something on my head during the trip. A tailwind is pushing me nicely. Around the 10-mile point, which looks like the end of the road in this image, Kelbaker Road turns sharply to the right and continues into the heart of Mojave National Preserve. I turn left at that point and set up camp at the base of one of the Kelbaker Hills there. - Posts mark the beginning of a Wilderness area at the base of Kelbaker Hills
I set up camp near here on last year's Mojave National Preserve trip as well. I set up camp just before the sun goes down and get to bed early for a change, exhausted from the long bus ride. I forget to try photographing the beautiful sunset that takes place. - Wake up! After a rejuvenating sleep, I get up and snap a few photos of the Kelbaker Hills area before packing up
It was a bit chilly last night and windy enough that it made a lot of noise on the tent, which kept me from sleeping as much as I would have liked. Luckily it was not a downright cold night. The moon was nearly full, which made for a nice late-night walk around my campsite. Once the sun came up, it relaxed me and I managed to sleep in a bit more, very high-quality sleep. The Indian Springs area, which I won't visit on this trip, is in the hills in the background. - A different view of the Kelbaker Hills campsite showing the rocky hill behind it
I think I'll climb up that hill. - View northwest across the desert toward Soda Lake from Kelbaker Hills
The dirt road just below me is one of many that criss-cross this wide desert expanse. I prepare a quick breakfast and leave my Kelbaker Road campsite just before noon to head further into Mojave National Preserve. - Hopsage bush and snow
- "The Scream"
- Avian desert-hiker tracks
- Sundown at a tiny dry lake in the Death Valley backcountry
- Last season's prince's plumes blossoms discuss the day's snowfall
- Downfall
- Desert trumpet buckwheats in snow
- Precipitation system approaching
- Desert turret with view
- Martian landscape, Convergence Canyon
- Old survivor
- US Survey 1911
- Tree cover, Middle Steer Ridge Trail, Henry Coe Park
- Split sunlight
- Ridge line
- Pond at Wagon Road/Phegley junction
- Redfern Pond
- A hiker atop the Phegley Ridge Trail "wall"
- Shooting stars
- Lichen rocks
- Mojave National Preserve hiking and bicycle routes, 2010 trip
Bicycle routes in red, hiking routes in blue. - No sign of last night's rain; I'm up around 7h, have breakfast, then pack up leisurely for today's ride to Mid Hills campground
I didn't sleep well last night due to the howling winds. The sun is hot this morning, but the cool wind up here at 3700 feet keeps me refreshed while packing up. Still, I feel tired by the time I'm ready to leave! Hmmmm... I must not be 100% recovered from the light heat exhaustion from two days ago. I'm really enjoying the Starbucks instant Via coffee I brought, which I make in cool water. I'm not in the mood for anything hot this morning. It does taste a bit like instant coffee, but it still has some decent coffee flavour. - I walk my packed saddlebags back to the powerline road, assemble the 10-ton bike, then ride a short distance to reach pavement
When camping off-road like I did here, I always carry my bike so as to leave footprints, but no bicycle tracks. - Once back on the pavement of Kelbaker Road, I begin the always-wonderful 12-mile downhill to Kelso
The descent on the pretty patched pavement begins quite gradually; an occasional automobile passes by. - As I coast down Kelbaker Road, I glance often at Kelso Peak, where I hiked yesterday
There are plenty more hills in the Kelso Mountains to climb besides that one I went up. Maybe on a future visit... - An old-style power line follows Kelbaker Road as it descends past the Kelso Mountains toward Kelso
Usually I just ride down this hill non-stop because it's so fun, but I've decided today to stop and smell the desert a couple of times on the way down (as hard as it is to interrupt the descent). - I pull over on Kelbaker Road, with Kelso Peak still in view, and go for a short walk
A few cars pass by, and I make sure I have my camera out so that nobody thinks I've stopped here because of a mechanical breakdown. - I look across a patch of yellow desert senna flowers at the Mid Hills area in the distance, my destination today
I recognize many landmarks in the Mid Hills, such as Eagle Rocks, the sharp points in the distant centre of this photo. The Mid Hills campground, where I'll camp during the next few nights, sits just behind that. - A little further down Kelbaker Road, I stop again to look at a desert senna with dodder growing in it
Dodder is a parasitic plant that looks like a bunch of orange string tangled up on its host (it looks more yellow-brown than orange in this photo). - Across the lower, southeastern end of the Kelso Mountains are nice views to Kelso Dunes and the Granite Mountains beyond
Kelso Dunes make for an excellent short day hike. I climbed the 600 feet of sand there during my Xmas 2007 Mojave National Preserve trip. Well worth your visit! - As I reach the bottom of this stretch of Kelbaker Road, the hamlet of Kelso keeps getting closer
The next segment of Kelbaker Road, where it rises into the Granite Mountains, is visible from here, but I'll make a left at Kelso and head up Kelso-Cima Road. It's warmer down here in the Kelso Valley, but not as hot as I was expecting. - Coyote melon grows on the shoulder of Kelbaker Road just north of Kelso
This might make for a good hike destination if I camp in the Kelso area again one day (there's no camping allowed at Kelso, but backcountry camping is feasible a couple of miles away). - 3865-coyote-melon
The melons are small and apparently not edible. - I break for 60 minutes at the Kelso Depot visitor centre to refill my water supply and enjoy an iced tea at the lunch counter
It's not as hot (only mid 80s) as I was expecting here in the Kelso Valley. I am told that it was very windy last night, but they didn't experience any of the rain here that I had up on the ridge above. The iced tea here is great, plain and homemade, but most food is microwave-heated commercial stuff. I eat two small beef-bean burritos and end up feeling energized afterwards nonetheless. I buy a local history book and a bandana at the book store before leaving. Nice exhibit of student photos in the downstairs gallery. I fill two of my 1.5-litre water bottles, and my 2-litre Camelbak before leaving, from the utility closet in the Kelso Depot basement (ask staff to unlock the door for you; there's no outdoor tap here where you can fill up). - After my break at Kelso Depot, I begin the gentle 15-mile uphill ride on Kelso-Cima Road
From here at 2100 feet elevation, it will be uphill until the end of the day when I arrive at Mid Hills campground at 5600 feet, in those hills at the distant right. A few old buildings remain along the road here. - My favourite old house here at Kelso, the one with the rounded roof, isn't doing so well
The front porch has fallen off since I did a walk-through of this Kelso house during my 2006 Mojave National Preserve trip. - One of several long freight trains passes by as I slowly rise up Kelso-Cima Road
The low spot in the distant hills ahead is Cedar Canyon, through which I'll pass later on my route to Mid Hills campground. - Blooming daturas decorate the train tracks along Kelso-Cima Road
Daturas like the roadsides of the Kelso area, but I find them in higher-elevation locations as well. - I pass Globe Mine Road, the only signed road off Kelso-Cima Road between Kelso and Cedar Canyon Road
I explored some of the area up Globe Mine Road during my 2008 trip, but there's plenty left up there for a future visit. - I amuse myself visually with the views of Cima Dome and Kessler Peak on my left as I climb Kelso-Cima Road
Kelso-Cima Road isn't the most exciting climb because the scenery doesn't change much, but it's going better than usual thanks to a strong tailwind that is pushing me up the subtle grade. - Behind me, looking back toward Kelso, are some great views of the Kelso Dunes
Kelso-Cima Road is a cut-through route in Mojave National Preserve, with a 55-mile-per-hour speed limit, so traffic can be fast and abundant at times. It's more relaxed on a weekday like today than on a busy weekend. - Reaching the sign for Cedar Canyon Road after 15 miles: I'm happy and pull over for a break
I usually stop for a short break or two on the way up Kelso-Cima Road before reaching this point, but today I just kept pedaling. Today's tailwind really helped to push me along and keep me from overheating. - I take my break at the E Clampus Vitus Mojave Road marker at the junction of Cedar Canyon Road and Kelso-Cima Road
I eat an energy bar and slug back some water. The dirt road behind the E Clampus Vitus marker is the old Mojave Road, one of the early wagon roads across the Mojave Desert. I'll ride a stretch of that road toward the end of this trip. - Detail view of the E Clampus Vitus plaque at the junction of Mojave Road, Kelso-Cima Road and Cedar Canyon Road
The plaque was dedicated in 1986. - I begin the climb up Cedar Canyon Road toward, and then into, the Mid Hills
The first thing that Cedar Canyon Road does upon leaving Kelso-Cima Road is cross the train tracks that I've been paralleling for the past two hours. - The first 2.5 miles of Cedar Canyon Road rise at about 5% grade, so the views behind me improve quickly
Looking back, I can see the old Mojave Road wiggling up the distant hills toward Marl Springs and Cima Dome. - Cedar Canyon Road's famous "pavement ends" sign, Mojave National Preserve
Here at about 4200 feet elevation, a cool breeze tempers the waning sun's heat. Just to the left of the sign is the Eagle Rocks, a landmark visible from miles away. I stop to make a cell-phone call, probably my last reception for the next few days. - Cedar Canyon Road rises through a healthy joshua tree forest, with Cima Dome still in the background when I look behind me
Unfortunately, most of the joshua trees on the opposite side of the road (not visible here) were burned during Mojave National Preserve's brush fires of 2005. The old Mojave Road is still visible climbing up the far-away hill. - Once Cedar Canyon Road enters the Mid Hills, it drops down into Cedar Wash for a couple of miles
It's nice to have a short descent after so many miles of uphill climbing today, but the toughest will be saved for the end. This is the first dirt road I've ridden on this trip, and it's definitely slower than pavement! - Looking behind me at the heavily washboarded surface of Cedar Canyon Road as it drops into Cedar Wash
I rattle over this and swerve constantly to avoid the roughest stretches. Mojave National Preserve staff at Kelso Depot earlier made an "Oh, that rough road" comment when I mentioned I would be riding this route to Mid Hills campground today. - After six miles on Cedar Canyon Road, I reach my next turn for Mid Hills campground: Black Canyon Rd. Time for a break!
Sure, Mid Hills campground is only 5 or 6 miles away (not much in road-cyclist mode), but on bumpy dirt roads with a steady uphill grade and a full load, I still have a bit of riding before me. I learned that lesson during my first trip out here! - After my break, I ride up Black Canyon Road from Cedar Canyon Road, still 5-6 miles away from Mid Hills campground
I crank it and don't stop for the first uphill mile to get beyond the slippery part. It's not horribly steep, but the washboarded road surface and surface sand here and there keeps speed to a minimum. The energy bar I just ate is working! - An energy-bar break is de rigueur here before tackling the final few miles up to Mid Hills campground
Here at the junction of Cedar Canyon Road and Black Canyon Road, I meet a couple of sunburnt Belgian tourists driving by. They're exploring the area and having a great time in the desert; I'm happy to encourage them onward. - The climb up Black Canyon Road toward Mid Hills only lasts a mile until I reach an almost-flat plateau (Round Valley)
This late in the day, after 3000 miles of elevation gain, I welcome any riding that is not uphill! After exerting myself up during the mile-long hill behind me, I ride this flatter area slowly to recuperate. - The Round Valley area of Mojave National Preserve includes quite a bit of private land
Someone's windmill and water tanks dominate this view with Table Mountain in the background. Most of this area burned in the 2005 brush fires here, and I've read that a fire torched the mesa on top of Table Mountain back in the 1980s. - A chunk of land in Round Valley is for sale
I've often wondered what it might be like to live out here, in a national park. The National Park Service has probably considered acquiring this land. - I ride up the gravelly Wild Horse Canyon Road the final two miles to Mid Hills campground
Traction is a problem here on a loaded-down bike, even with 2.35-inch tires, with the loose gravel and four short hills. I walk the bike up the steepest one (easier). A lone car passes, stops to see if I've had a breakdown, and we chat for 15 minutes. He chuckles that my bicycle-traveling looks like punishment. It's hard to explain that yes it is, but it's also freedom beyond anything advertised in one's favourite SUV commercial. If we had more advertisements about bicycling, he would understand better. - Finally, I reach the Mid Hills campground entrance road; those final two miles always seem to last forever
My rear wheel has started rubbing against the frame like it did a couple of days ago. Oddly, when I walk the bike, the wheel almost locks up, but if I ride, it just rubs. Huh? Since I'm almost there, I don't bother fixing it immediately. - I ride almost 3/4 mile to the far end of Mid Hills campground to see if my prized site 21 is taken or surrounded by undesirables
I win! Best of all, the campground is almost empty, which I expect on a weekday like this. I was worried because the guy I chatted with back on Wild Horse Canyon Road said that he had met a large group of people at the campground. - It's a bit chilly up here at Mid Hills campground! I put on my sweater, set up the tent, settle in, and enjoy the sunset
Mid Hills campground will be home base for a few days. I've camped here many times before, and always enjoy coming back to what's left of this high-desert forest (after the 2005 brush fires): except perhaps on weekends when it sometimes gets busy here. - Sunset from Mid Hills campground through a pinyon pine; that should be the Kingston Range way over there
Now that I'm starting to relax and lose the day's sweat-and-adrenalin rush, I realize that it's almost cold here. And I'm hungry and exhausted. I munch on some beef jerky while anticipating supper after sunset. I still have more than a litre of water left; probably consumed about 3.5 on the way here today. I walk over to the tap up the road to fill up and find that it's more heavily chlorinated than it should be. Blech, tastes like a swimming pool; this can't be normal! - The usually ochre hills on the other side of Cedar Canyon Road, which I passed earlier, collect the day's pinkish orange rays
After dark, I make Mountain House Beef Teriyaki and Rice. Tasty, but I have to eat slowly since my body isn't so sure it wants to swallow food right now. The engine-like sound of wind howls above all evening. I wear a long-sleeve shirt, long underwear, long pants and sweater in my sleeping bag. I pass out easily, more wasted than I thought, a bit after midnight. - Kelso Peak area to Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, route elevation profile
37.8 bicycle miles, 3640 feet elevation gain. - Kelso Peak area to Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, bicycle route
37.8 bicycle miles, 3640 feet elevation gain. - Wild pigs
- A glimpse of the distant Sierra from Steer Ridge on a very gray day
- Map of Death Valley area showing 2007 bicycle routes travelled
- Crossing the floor of the Dumont Dunes valley
It must be over 100 degrees here in the valley; I'm used to that now. No more photos, but I still have 30 miles of riding ahead of me to Baker--the end. Really. - Entering the valley, with the Avawatz Mountains in the background
Wind blowing against me is starting to feel hot. - Ooo, four-percent grade for a few miles
The fun isn't over yet! The Salt Spring Hills sit to the right of the dunes. - Dumont Dunes get closer as the descent continues
It always seems warmer in this valley and I can almost feel heat radiating from the dunes over there. - Highway 127 winds its way down
... around the next mound in the Saddle Peak Hills. - Descent from Ibex Pass continues
Dumont Dunes become visible over on the left. - Five-percent grade ahead
Woo hoo! - Just before descending is the sign on the other side of the road for uphill climbers
Welcome to Inyo County. - The descent into the Dumont Dunes valley is about to begin
The Saddle Peak Hills Wilderness area is on the right. - Heading back to Baker from Tecopa Hot Springs, I pass over the summit of Ibex Pass on Highway 127
San Bernardino County begins; Inyo County ends. - Near the crest of China Ranch Road, I chat with another bicyclist before heading down to Tecopa Hot Springs to end the day
I'm not the only crazy guy on a bike out here. At the crest of China Ranch Road, I meet another cyclist staying around here, also from the Bay Area, who is heading down to China Ranch to buy some date loaf before the store closes. I'm out of disposable cameras, and there's nowhere around to buy another one. And the trip is almost over, with tomorrow's 55-mile-ride back to Baker marking the end of my desert pedalling. Tonight's moonlight and mineral water soaks remains, and one last instant backpacking meal waits for me back at the tent. - I walk back to the China Ranch store, rest briefly, drink two cans of cold Coca-cola, and begin the ride up out of the canyon
My two-litre bottle of water didn't stay cold for long in this heat, and it runs out just as I return to the China Ranch store. I buy another bottle of cold water for the ride back to Tecopa Hot Springs Campground via the scenic China Ranch Road.