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- I climb up another hill on the way to Indian Spring and recognize the valley of junipers and joshua trees in front of me
I hiked there last year, and around Malpais Spring in front of those rocky hills. - My cross-country hiking ends temporarily when I hit the old closed road to Indian Spring, which serves as a nice trail
I have about a quarter mile to go until I reach Indian Spring. I try my cell phone since I remember having reception in some of this area, but it doesn't work right here. - As I approach Indian Spring, I notice a balloon fragment tangled in a catclaw bush
That's balloon #3 for today! I see a few doves and hope that's a sign that Indian Spring is full of water like it was last year. - Well, here I am at Indian Spring, New York Mountains, Mojave National Preserve
... not to be confused with the Indian Springs near Kelbaker Road. The water in the trough looks a bit greener than I remember from last year's visit to Indian Spring. Those grasses weren't growing in the trough last year. - Just like last year, bees are buzzing around the shallow water where it overflows from the Indian Spring trough
An overflowing water trough in the dry Mojave Desert: nice! But I'll stay away from this end of the tub! - I leisurely filter 3 1.5-litre bottles of that greenish water from the Indian Spring tub and it tastes pretty good
The water tastes better than the tap water I brought with me from the motel in Searchlight. In fact, it's the best water I've had so far on this trip. My MSR water filter is acting a bit erratic and I hope it's not about to fail. - I leave Indian Spring and start my way cross-country up to a saddle between two sets of pinnacles in the Castle Peaks
I stared at these pinnacles a lot while hiking in this area last year, but didn't do the climb up to the saddle. - The climb up to this Castle Peaks saddle is about 500 feet elevation in about 3/4 mile from Indian Spring down below
I'm rising quickly toward the saddle, and the cool breeze is making the uphill hike easier than I expected. - I'm almost there; just a little further and I'll be on that saddle between the two Castle Peaks pinnacle `groups`
The juniper trees provide a sense of scale as to how large these pinnacles are. - Great views back down into the valley behind me from this Castle Peaks saddle
I especially enjoyed hiking through the band of barrel cacti just below here. - Arrived! I sit here on the Castle Peaks saddle for a good 15 minutes, with pinnacles in front of me, and behind me
I eat an energy bar, take lots of photos, send a few texts and check phone messages (my cell phone works up here, as I thought it might). I'm at about 5475 feet elevation here. - From the Castle Peaks saddle, I can zoom in across the valley and just barely make out the Searchlight area
It's fun to just sit here and stare into the distance. - As I plot the continuation of my hike, I look down into a secluded valley on the other (west) side of the Castle Peaks saddle
Since I don't have a predetermined route today, I'm checking my GPS for route options. I'm not ready to drop back down into the wash just yet. - Instead of dropping down into the valley, I decide to skirt along this hill and hike over to the next Castle Peaks saddle
I'll hike carefully along this slope over to the slot between the hills straight ahead. I will need to descend a bit in order to avoid the steepest part of the slope ahead. - I get close to the slot in the hills and will hike up to the little pass between them at upper-right
It's slow hiking along here due to some loose rock and somewhat steep grade in places. - Looking to the south, I'm now in the upper part of that small valley between two Castle Peaks pinnacle `groups`
Not a lot of wildflowers here, but this white Mojave thistle (Cirsium neomexicana) is doing fine. - I walk up a boulder-strewn drainage area toward that pass in the Castle Peaks
What will I see up there? - The views behind me, toward Walking Box Ranch Road to the south, are striking in the late-day sunlight
There must be birds' nests up in that inaccessible pinnacle... - I reach this pass in the Castle Peaks and have an unexpected view to the north across the Ivanpah Valley
I'll continue hiking to my left here, up to the next Castle Peaks pinnacle area. - One short, steep hill and I'll be up at the next Castle Peaks pinnacles
It's fun navigating out here with a general direction, but without a precisely predetermined route. However, I have to keep checking my GPS and maps to make sure I don't end up on a slope that's a bit too steep to hike safely. I get vertigo easily. - To the west, I get a view I haven't seen before, with the New York Mountains peaks at upper-left
I keep staring at the distant set of pinnacles at upper-right beyond the juniper-studded hills, wondering exactly where they are. I think I'll be in that area on tomorrow's hike. - Phlox flowers on the north side of the Castle Peaks hills
Even small amounts of pink like this jump out against the green and grey Mojave Desert landscape. - My hike up to the pinnacles quickly gets a bit steep and slippery due to loose rock, so I veer to the right a little
I see a flatter patch of land just ahead. - I'm happy to reach the top of the hill; it's pretty steep here
Vertigo is starting to set in (I wish it wouldn't). - This Castle Peaks set of pinnacles is just as awesome as the last one; the one in front of me is Dove Peak
This is my high point for the day, around 5525 feet elevation. I take a short break here to enjoy it all. - Well, I guess I'll drop down into the valley between these Castle Peaks hills and start heading back to my campsite
I always hate to leave the high-elevation point of any hike, but Mojave Desert washes are just as much fun to explore as the high points. - I notice a natural arch in the Castle Peaks pinnacles as I start my way down the hill
The arch looks big enough that I might be able to climb up there and crawl through it, but I'm fixated on my downhill hike right now. - A few nice rock outcrops dot the hike down the wash into the valley below the Castle Peaks
It's an easy downhill, but I do have to zigzag a little to avoid rocks and thorny plants, as usual. - Oh, another little hole in the Castle Peaks rocks
I'm not sure this qualifies as a "natural arch," but the Broadwell Natural Arch that I visited last fall in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness is not much bigger than this. - I take a look behind me as I walk down the hill away from the Castle Peaks
I think that's the pinnacle I looked at from the other side a little while ago. Or is it? - A fallen joshua tree lays in this wash below the Castle Peaks
I'm getting really close to a wash that I hiked earlier today. - This pinnacle in the Castle Peaks is rather phallic
It would be interesting to see a time-lapse of how all the pinnacles here eroded slowly over time. - Oh, that barbed-wire fence; I forgot I might encounter this again
It's easy to crawl under, again, fortunately. I'll make a right turn in front of that hill ahead and hike up the wash there. - I'm now walking up a wash that I hiked down earlier today, but this time I'll go all the way to the crest ahead
Earlier, I climbed over the hills on my left to get here, but I want to join up with the old Castle Peaks road higher up the hill for the final walk back to camp. - The sandy wash radiates from the golden end-of-day sunlight
I find a few of my footprints from my hike here earlier today, but none from anybody else. - After another 20 minutes, I reach the top of the wash and locate the old Castle Peaks road
At a junction of two old, closed roads here, I start walking down the wrong one, but turn around after about 30 seconds when I realize the scenery is wrong. This point is at about 5175 feet elevation here. - The old Castle Peaks road leaves the pinnacles area and dips down between rolling hills on the way back to my campsite
The high peaks of the New York Mountains jut up in the distance. - Some stretches of the old, closed Castle Peaks road are quite eroded
... which is not really a surprise, since this appears to be a natural drainage corridor from the Castle Peaks area. A deer jumps out from nowhere and darts across the road. Just one deer? Where is the rest of the family? - Erosion is so severe in a few spots on the old Castle Peaks road that the roadbed is almost unrecognizable
I can see why the road is closed to vehicles beyond my campsite, since spots like this are impassible to most vehicles. It still makes for a nice trail. - I reach the Wilderness boundary and exit onto the part of Castle Peaks Road that is still open to vehicles
This has been such an enjoyable hike that I hate to see it come to an end. My strength has been building up over the past few days, so I feel good after hiking 10 miles: a bit tired of course, but not exhausted. - Home for the night at the Castle Peaks trailhead
I have worked up an appetite and looking forward to my next add-boiling-water-to-bag meal: Mountain House Beef Stew, always a favourite. I only ate one Clif bar, some chocolate and some dried pineapple during today's hike, which wasn't quite enough. - I don't get sunset between these hills near Castle Peaks, but I do see good sunset colors on the clouds
With almost no wind, the sky is a quiet, blinding black from dusk until the full moon rises later. A few birds chatter, then go to sleep; a few insects flit against my tent like rain sprinkles until the night gets chillier. It's still sweater weather. Looking forward to a great sleep, and I don't think I'll sleep cold again tonight. - Morning #2 at the end of Castle Peaks Road is warm and sunny
I'm glad I filtered extra water at Indian Spring yesterday so I can hike another day in this area. Even though I woke up cold around dawn, it's hot in the tent now whenever the light morning breeze stops. I tried to sleep in more, but I've been awake since around 8h30. - Insect webs (caterpillars?) on a Desert almond bush near my tent
I've seen quite a few of these webs around here. While eating my usual dry camp breakfast, I watch a mourning dove snuggling up against a joshua-tree branch; perhaps there's a nest there which I couldn't see. - Today's hike begins by walking about 1/3 mile down the non-Wilderness section of Castle Peaks Road
Some scarlet Indian paintbrush and yellow flowers (possibly Goldenbush) add occasional colour to the roadside. I see my tire tracks and footprints from two days ago. - I veer to the west (right) when I reach the dry reservoir 1/3 mile down Castle Peaks Road, instead of staying on the 'main road'
I can see the Castle Peaks Road climbing up over the berm on the other side of the reservoir. - I hike past another set of Wilderness markers on the west side of the Castle Peaks Road dry reservoir
The former ranch roads in this Wilderness area serve as good hiking trails these days, even though they aren't formally considered as trails. - A few Mojave asters are still blooming in this joshua-tree forest
These asters seem so delicate compared to their rugged environment. - The former ranch road cuts across a wide-open area in the New York Mountains foothills
I'm just high enough in the New York Mountains foothills that I can see all the way across Lanfair Valley to Table Mountain, at distant right, and Hackberry Mountain, at distant left behind that joshua tree. - I reach another dry reservoir with a Desert four o'clock blooming on the "shoreline"
The cracked clay shows that water does accumulate here, despite its absence today. A few quail and mourning doves flit about, breaking the silence. - I've seen these tiny pink flowers so many times, but can't remember what they are
Quite a few Mojave flowers are in this category of I-remember-I-forget-what-this-is, since I only see many of them when I'm visiting the Mojave Desert. - Miniature high-Mojave flower garden
Desert trumpets (the upright, dry stems), orange desert mallow, and tiny purple flowers whose name I forget. - I start walking up a wash away from the dry reservoir and inadvertently scare a few quail into a joshua tree
Actually, they startle me as much as I startle them; it's otherwise so quiet out here, with just a light breeze and no other people around. - I'm heading up a small drainage now toward that rounded hill on my way to the Bathtub Spring Peaks area
To keep the grade as gentle as possible, I'll soon veer a bit to the right, then back to the left when it's time to climb the big hill. - Does one ever see enough scarlet Indian paintbrush while hiking in the Mojave Desert?
It's a slightly uphill hike now, and my energy is just not kicking in yet. Maybe I needed to sleep more last night. Maybe I'm not yet inspired by the gentle topography here after yesterday's awesome hike in the Castle Peaks area. - The drainage wash has fizzled out and I find my self hiking uphill and cross-country amidst some gangly joshua trees
According to my GPS, I'm almost at the high point of this stretch. - To my surprise, the crest of this anonymous wash in the New York Mountains foothills overlooks some of the Ivanpah Valley; wow
Time for a short break and an energy bar. It's not just the energy bar that helps, but the views invigorate me too. Sometimes, the psychological is as important as the physical. - From this overlook above Ivanpah Valley, I'll hike to my left a bit to avoid the gulley, then to the right up the big hill
My goal is to get up on top of that hill at upper-right. - When I reach the base of the higher hill ahead overlooking Ivanpah Valley, it doesn't look like it will be as steep as expected
Onward and upward I go to the top of that hill ahead. Energy kicks in. Is it the energy bar I just ate? - Climbing this hill toward the Bathtub Spring Cliffs requires some care to avoid the rocks and ground-hugging cacti
I'm glad to be wearing long pants so as not to collect burrs and such on my socks and legs. I'll be up on top of this hill shortly! - I'm high enough now that I can see behind me to the Castle Peaks (center-left) and the Castle Mountains (center-right)
Interesting dark cloud shadow in the middle of my view... - I arrive at the top of the hill, which I'll call 'Bathtub Spring Peak,' since it has no official name
Commanding views of the badlands just below and across Ivanpah Valley, all the way to Clark Mountain and Ivanpah Dry Lake near Primm. - From this spot on Bathtub Spring Peak, I get a view of Cima Dome's distant, gentle curve that I haven't had before
The hills in the middle ground are in the Slaughterhouse Spring area, which I haven't visited yet. I hear a hawk screeching occasionally and then see it flying around. Maybe there are nests up here. - It's a steep drop from Bathtub Spring Peak down to the badlands below
It looks possible to slowly climb down the slope, but I plan on taking an easier way down behind me. - I'll walk over to the high point of Bathtub Spring Peak, that big rocky lump ahead
The elevation is around 5300 feet there. Of course, it's windy up here. The only other sound is that hawk screeching, wherever he is right now. My cell phone works here, so I send a couple of text messages. - Looking across Ivanpah Valley from Bathtub Spring Peak, I can make out a distant road leading up into the Ivanpah Mountains
I can see the lower part of Ivanpah Road snaking around in the middle ground. I'll be down around there soon. I wonder when a human was last up here... - Willow Wash, where I'll be hiking in a while, is in front of that hill in the middle ground
I'm intrigued by the badlands between there and here on Bathtub Spring Peak. The badlands, like the peak here, are probably rarely visited. - Another steep drop on the north face of Bathtub Spring Peak
It's interesting how the north side of the peak is cliff-like and heavily eroded, while the south side is a more even downhill. - Looking back from Bathtub Spring Peak, I can see over to the Castle Peaks pinnacles where I hiked yesterday
The mountains at distant left are, I believe, the McCullough Mountains outside Mojave National Preserve, where I hiked a few days ago. - Walking along the crest of Bathtub Spring Peak, I begin thinking about the next part of today's hike
As the saying goes, "What goes up must come down." - From the west end of Bathtub Spring Peak, I can see clearly down to Ivanpah Road, and over to the New York Mountains peaks
I think I can make out the faint traces that are the little road to Bathtub Spring, and the old Ivanpah railway bed. - I examine the southward view from Bathtub Spring Peak, since this will be my downhill route in a few minutes
I can see all the way to Hackberry Mountain at distant centre. I can even see a segment of Ivanpah Road at upper left, which I'll ride tomorrow on the 10-ton bike. - One more glance from Bathtub Spring Peak toward Ivanpah Dry Lake, then it's time to start heading downhill
I always quiz myself when I contemplate these grand views. I think the low mountains to the right of Ivanpah Dry Lake are the Lucy Gray Mountains; the McCullough Mountains would be a bit further to the right, outside this photo. - I begin the short steep hike from Bathtub Spring Peak down to Bathtub Spring itself, following a drainage corridor
Downhill we go! I follow the natural drainage channel downward. - The hike down the slope to Bathtub Spring is not fast, since it's steep, but it's enjoyable
I'm at a somewhat level spot here, and the next stretch is going to be steep, so I'm checking it out before committing myself to a route. - On my way down to Bathtub Spring, I look back to hear several noisy hawks hovering in the sky
I was hearing their screeches from time to time while up on Bathtub Spring Peak, but not always seeing them. Perhaps they didn't like my intrusion into their territory! - I'm almost down in the Bathtub Spring canyon now
Another short steep stretch to be taken carefully until I'm down there. - A few barrel cacti greet me as I arrive in the Bathtub Spring wash
I'm at about 4800 feet elevation now, 700 feet below the peak where I was a while ago, and have a couple hundred feet more descent ahead before I reach Bathtub Spring. - I always enjoy hiking down winding, rocky washes like this one on the way to Bathtub Spring, New York Mountains
So far, this wash appears to be typical for this type of geography: a scenic jumble of large and small rocks washed down from the steep adjacent hillside. - Nice, a little natural arch near Bathtub Spring, New York Mountains
I'm not quite a mile from Ivanpah Road, but this is just far enough from the main road that it probably doesn't get seen by many folks. - At the lower end of Bathtub Spring wash, a lot of small, loose rock makes hiking a little slower
I can make out a segment of Ivanpah Road from here at center-left. - I check my GPS and climb over a small hill to reach Bathtub Spring; there it is, in a wire cage!
This is the New York Mountains Bathtub Spring off Ivanpah Road, not the Bathtub Spring in the Mid Hills to the west. I'll visit them both during this trip, which may confuse this travelogue somewhat. - Bathtub Spring in the New York Mountains is true to its name and has a bathtub, inserted into an old rusted cistern
Despite surface algae, the water is fairly clear. The wire cage makes human access difficult; I'm glad I brought adequate water with me. The small box on a post contains a wildlife camera; I've been caught on these before! - New York Mountains' Bathtub Spring is home to hundreds of happy bees
A mineral crust on the bathtub betrays an earlier high-water level. - I walk a short distance down the old road that leads away from Bathtub Spring to meet the old Ivanpah railway grade
I can see Ivanpah Road down there, but I won't be going quite that far. I've ridden the 10-ton bike on Ivanpah Road many times, but this is the first time I've been in this area on foot. - I pass a patch of those tiny purple flowers I've been seeing occasionally
I still can't remember what these are, but I enjoy running across them. - I arrive at the bottom of Bathtub Spring Road and exit the Wilderness boundary
It's interesting to look up at the high point, Bathtub Spring Peak, where I was a little over an hour ago. - Here I am now at the old Ivanpah railway grade, which I never got around to visiting while passing by on previous trips
I'm looking forward to hiking this "road." Down at this lower elevation, the breeze is warm, not cool like the wind up on Bathtub Spring Peak. - It obviously required a lot of work to slice the old Ivanpah railway grade through the hills a century ago
Those were other times, a mining boom, not so different in some ways from today's "tech" boom. - Piling the earth for the raised Ivanpah railway bed in low areas would have been as much work as cutting through the hills
After a century, the railway bed is still mostly intact. Imagine a train riding down this road. - As I continue hiking along the abandoned Ivanpah railway grade, I notice that the road deteriorates
I notice some traces of tire tracks here, but not a lot of motor vehicles have been here recently. It might make an interesting rough-road mountain-bike ride. - I've seen a lot of lizards scurrying around today, and finally I manage to photograph one!
They're usually too fast for me, but this time, I think the lizard believes I am not seeing him. - Vegetation is slowly encroaching on the old Ivanpah railway grade
I've seen Mojave asters, Indian paintbrush and buckwheats growing along here. Here is a blooming paper flower bush (Psilostrophe cooperi). - On some stretches of the abandoned Ivanpah railway grade are good views into the old Vanderbilt mining district
That big "ant hill" in the middle ground is one of many mining sites in that area. That's another area that I need to explore one of these days. - Ooops! A total wash-out of the old Ivanpah railway grade
Maybe this didn't have good drainage under the earth berm here. Tire tracks show the route down into the wash and back up onto the railway grade. Yellow Prince's plume flowers bloom here. - I climb back up onto the Ivanpah railway grade after the wash-out and it's another slice through the rocks
.. and a few more yellow Prince's plume flowers. But very little traffic here during the past few years! - After a fun, level half hour on the old Ivanpah railway, it's time to climb down and hike cross-country over to Willow Wash
Willow Wash is just in front of that hill ahead, about 1/4 mile away. I'll make a right turn there to start the hike up Willow Wash toward camp. - But first, I'll stop to finish off this last delicious piece of orange-flavored chocolate
I hesitate to bring chocolate on warm-weather hiking trips because it melts and makes a mess. But the moderate temperatures so far on this trip make me happy that I brought chocolate this time! - Purple phacelia flowers (Desert canterbury bells) as I approach Willow Wash
I haven't seen many of these during this trip (I'm probably too late in the season). - I'm now in Willow Wash, Mojave National Preserve, at the lowest point of today's hike: 4175 feet elevation
It will be a gentle uphill in this wide wash and I should reach Willow Spring after about 1.5 miles. - As I slowly gain altitude in Willow Wash, I turn back for a view across Ivanpah Valley to the blue curvature of Cima Dome
It's definitely warmer down here in the wash (low 80s F?), but it's nonetheless a rather cool day for this time of year. - A few desert sages (Salvia dorrii) are still flowering here in Willow Wash
Not many other flowers down here right now... - I notice what looks like an old metal cistern buried in the sands of Willow Wash
Has the cistern sunk in the sand over the years or has the sand level of Willow Wash risen to cover it? - A little further ahead in Willow Wash is a small rock ruins, probably another extinct cistern
Some old rusty metal pipes can also be found nearby. - I pass through a grove of Desert willows (Chilopsis linearis), which is likely what Willow Wash is named after
The Desert willows are just starting to leaf out, but are mostly leafless and grey right now. - According to my GPS, I'm not quite at Willow Spring when I pass this old corral in Willow Wash
Most of the old stick fence is still standing, and has been repaired over the years in some spots. - Pincushion flowers and a few phacelias grow near the old corral in Willow Wash
It's odd to suddenly find a big patch of wildflowers when there are otherwise so few in the area. That metal object in the background... - Here's a defunct metal cistern in Willow Wash that has not yet been buried in sand like the last one I saw
A boat marooned on a sandy beach... - Near the Willow Wash corral is a pile of wood and concrete debris, suggesting that a small outbuilding may have once stood here
A little Mojave squirrel quickly scampers across the debris just before I pull out my camera. I've seen quite a few of these, but I rarely get to photograph them because they move so quickly. - After a bit of searching, I locate what I believe is Willow Spring, in a grassy area shaded by nearly leafless Desert willows
I find a concrete cistern and slightly greener grasses, but no other sign of water, so I figure this must be the current incarnation of Willow Spring. - I open the wooden lid on the concrete cistern at Willow Spring, and a bit of water stares back up at me
I see my reflection down there, but I get the impression that the water is quite shallow. - Beyond Willow Spring, my goal is to hike over the hills and be back at my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road before dark
I check my GPS and decide to follow a small drainage out of Willow Wash that briefly heads toward the cliffs here before climbing a hill to the left (eastward). - On the way up out of Willow Wash, I hike through the first of several small water-carved drainages in the rocks
Whenever I walk through places like this, I try to imagine what it would be like full of the water needed to wear down rocks like this. - A brilliant penstemon manages to grow in the rocks here above Willow Wash; there's barely any soil here!
Probably Penstemon centranthifolius. - It's not quite a seep, but there's enough residual moisture to attract bees at this spot in the drainage above Willow Wash
While riding the 10-ton bike up Walking Box Ranch Road, I remember seeing dark clouds over this area. Perhaps the moisture here is from rain here a couple of days ago. - A few Cliff roses bloom in the rocky drainage leading up out of Willow Wash
I'm at about 4850 feet elevation now, almost 700 feet higher than where I started in the lower part of Willow Wash. - I come across a rather fresh skeleton here above Willow Wash
It looks like some kind of large bird... - The skeleton has been efficiently picked clean
Any shred of remaining meat on the bones are completely dry. - I'm temped to try hiking up a slot in the rugged cliffs adjacent to the drainage above Willow Wash
According to my GPS, a few potential slots in the cliffs might be hike-worthy, but if not, I would have to return to the drainage here. - I decide to ignore the cliffs and keep hiking up the easier route in this drainage above Willow Wash; the top is not far ahead
I enjoy scampering up the little rock obstacles along the way here. Ahead on the right, it looks like there may have once been an old road cut here. - As I get higher, I look back (southwest) at the views behind me toward Willow Wash
I can't stop looking at those cliffs to my left and wondering if I could climb through them. I'll zoom in a bit closer. - I zoom in closer and, yes, there is a slot in the cliffs that I might be able to hike
However, I can't see where it ends, and it might end at a wall of rock that requires serious rock-climbing skills. It would be fun to go find out what's up there, but I hope to make it back to camp by sunset. - I finally reach the top of the drainage and am treated to an unexpected panorama across the Ivanpah Valley
Since these New York Mountains hills have no name, I'll call them "Dove Spring Peaks" because they overlook the area of Dove Spring, which I've heard is dry. - The succession of ridges visible from Dove Spring Peaks stands out in the pre-dusk sunlight; I recognize those pinnacles
I saw those pinnacles while hiking at Castle Peaks yesterday and was wondering where they are located. Now I know. - Dove Spring Peaks also has views over to the high blue peaks further over in the New York Mountains
The lower blue hills in the middle ground are probably the Bathtub Spring Peaks, where I hiked earlier today. - I savour a few final views from Dove Spring Peaks, then turn around and begin the hike back to camp
I spend a few minutes looking at the USGS quads on my GPS and choose a route over the hills back to camp, about a mile and a half away. - I hike through an upland valley on the way back to my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road
The rolling hilltops surrounding me have panoramic views of the area, but here in between them, I have none. It's an interesting feeling. - Within 15 minutes, the sun has dipped enough that my upland valley here is largely shaded
I'm chasing sunlight now! I'll turn left (southeast) in a moment, then climb one last hill before the final short descent down to camp... - Still chasing sunlight, I climb over this one final hill before the short descent to my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road
These rounded hills here are predominately grasslands, with occasional spiky yuccas and cacti poking through. - I can't see my nearby campsite yet while hiking down this hill, but I do get a good glimpse of the Castle Peaks along the way
Tomorrow, I'll be leaving this area, so this may be the last I see of the Castle Peaks for a while. - My cross-country hiking ends when I come down the hill and join up with the end of Castle Peaks Road and its Wilderness markers
It's already shaded here, but the glow of sunset still radiates on the rounded hill further up the road. - Back at my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road for a third and final night, I'm thinking about supper now
It's a pleasant, quiet evening, cool, but not downright cold, once the sun goes down. I haven't seen anyone else in two days now. I boil water and add it to a bag of Mountain House Chicken Teriyaki with Rice which is pretty good. I love the crunch of the water chestnuts. Unfortunately, the water that's been in my 10-litre MSR water bag for two days has picked up a distinct plastic taste. I can even smell it when the water is boiling, and taste it through the otherwise delicious sauce of my instant meal. Blech. The star-studded sky is black again while I write notes in my journal, then the moon rises late in the evening. Serenity. I put on my sweater and long underwear, crawl into my sleeping bag, and hope for a good night's sleep. - It's warm in the sun this morning, so I move everything into the shade of my juniper tree while I pack up camp
I slept well last night and enjoyed my quick breakfast of granola, nuts, dried fruit, vitamin-C drink and coffee. I've enjoyed my three nights here at the end of Castle Peaks Road and am ready for the next stage of this trip! - I hate packing up, but it went reasonably well, and now I begin the ride down Castle Peaks Road
Leaving my campsite by 10h is early for me, but I have a long ride ahead across the heart of Mojave National Preserve. In the sand here, I have to walk the 10-ton bike, and I see my bike tracks and footprints from the past couple of days. - Approaching the dry reservoir on Castle Peaks Road, I see more of my bicycle tracks from three days ago
On yesterday's hike, I made a right turn here, but today I'll climb over the hill ahead and out of this valley. - Today's ride will be to the other side of Lanfair Valley, roughly as far as the eye can see here
I'm looking forward to the long ride ahead, all on dirt roads. It won't be a fast ride due to rough road surfaces, but the ups and downs along the way will be gradual for the most part. - It's fun riding down this little hill on Castle Peaks Road on the way out of the New York Mountains foothills
I forgot about this hill, but now I remember walking the 10-ton bike up it three days ago. - Riding a winding road in a quiet joshua-tree forest is always enjoyable
The best part is that it's slightly downhill on Castle Peaks Road, so the slightly sandy road doesn't pose any traction difficulties for the 10-ton bike. - Castle Peaks Road ends after 30 minutes; I start riding the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade and find this stray balloon
This Mother's Day balloon speaks Spanish (Feliz dia mama). It goes into my saddlebags for later disposal. - I have a slight headwind, so I don't hear the six 4WD vehicles sneaking up behind me on the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade
I'm startled! I hear a noise, then notice six vehicles right behind me! Shocking, I haven't seen people in 3 days. As they pass, we chat briefly. One of them gives me a bottle of water (colder than mine, thanks!) and one of them thinks I'm nuts. Some people don't realize it's possible and potentially rewarding to travel without a motor vehicle. Motor-vehicle advertising, which so many people happily consume, reinforces such ideas. Ironically, the people who think my bicycle trips are impossibly extreme are sometimes people much stronger than I. - After 3 miles on the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade, it ends by an open area, where the next road on my route should begin
Good view of the New York Mountains peaks at centre-left from this area. The lower peaks at centre-right are in the area of the Bathtub Spring Peaks, where I hiked yesterday. - With assistance from my Delorme GPS, I locate the old road that I'm hoping to follow; it's nearly invisible!
Can you see it straight ahead? I can't. I keep checking my GPS to make sure this is it, and it is. This road hasn't been used at all in a very long time, which is not a good sign. I try riding it anyway. - After about 100 feet on this old grown-in road, I decide to turn back and take the longer, but easier, Hart Mine Road instead
I love the old backroads, but... It looks like I'll be essentially walking the 10-ton bike cross-country if I continue on this route straight ahead. That might be fun, but I have many more miles to cover today, preferably during daylight. - Hart Mine Road is a rough dirt road that rises about 250 feet in 2.5 miles on my detour route via Barnwell
It's not steep, but it's bumpy and slow. The rocks along the road are radiating heat, and I'm sweating a bit. My U-shaped bypass around the non-existent road I was hoping to follow will add about 4.5 miles. - As I approach the former settlement of Barnwell, Mojave National Preserve, I pass an old windmill and water tank
The 10-ton bike waits for me while I climb up the side of the water tank. It's dry inside, as I expected, since it's no longer maintained for use. - Across the road from the old Barnwell water tank is a corral and another windmill
If I weren't on a mission to reach Mid Hills campground (or Hole-in-the-Wall campground) by the end of the day, I'd stop for an extended exploration break here. - It might be interesting to count how many old cars and trucks sit on this Barnwell property!
A few of these vehicles are rather old. - This old house at Barnwell, Mojave National Preserve looks like it was once well cared for
The hipped roof makes the house possibly quite old, while the wide horizontal windows, sliding patio door, and front addition are probably later additions, intended to make the house more "modern." - The old house at Barnwell has a stone chimney
The side door is open, but I don't enter, as much as I'm curious. - Behind the main house at Barnwell is a smaller, more modest, "guest-quarters" house
With a windmill in its backyard, it also has the front door open to visitors, and meth producers. - That old house at Barnwell that I always notice with all the junked vehicles around it: the gate is open
I've always thought that this property is not abandoned, so I've never approached it. But maybe it is... - Hart Mine Road ends at Barnwell, so I turn south on Ivanpah Road, with the New York Mountains peaks in front of me
The rolling hills along Ivanpah Road here top out at 4800-4900 feet elevation, the highest point I'll ride until I reach the Mid Hills campground area at the end of the day. - From the top of Ivanpah Road near Barnwell, I can still see over to Castle Peaks, but this view won't last long
A few robust Palmer's penstemons bloom along the road here. - Ivanpah Road rolls over a pass in the New York Mountains and then descends slowly into Lanfair Valley
I remember the first time I rode over this "summit" over 10 years ago in the Keystone Canyon area. - I locate a berm of earth, part of the old Ivanpah railway grade and the "invisible" road I wanted to ride earlier
Well, my invisible road is hard to find and rarely used from this end too. I'm still curious about it and might return another day when I have more time to explore. - With relatively few wildflowers along Ivanpah Road, this little garden against a New York Mountains backdrop gets my attention
Pink Palmer's penstemon, an orange Desert mallow and a yellow Desert marigold. - Ivanpah Road rides ever so slightly downhill across Lanfair Valley
The grade is one or two percent, but the surface rough enough that I can't build up much speed. I'm glad I'm not carrying the weight of a full water load today. I have just enough water for the day, and it tastes like plastic. - The 10-ton bike takes a break at the junction of New York Mountains Road so I can check out an old OX Ranch corral
OX Ranch, now owned by the National Parks Service, was one of the major cattle ranches in the area. Several installations and buildings remain here. - A couple of old water tanks and a windmill sit near Ivanpah Road at the OX Ranch site
These were operational not so long ago. - One of the buildings remaining at the OX Ranch site is this mobile home
A couple of houses are here as well, in a no-trespassing area, presumably in the hope of preventing vandalism. - A bit beyond the OX Ranch site is a private, by-reservation-only campground called 'Mojave Desert Outpost'
Maybe I should camp here one day... I stop here to refill my Camelbak with more of my plastic-tasting water. I'm looking forward to better water at the end of the day! - I know I'm getting close to the junction of Ivanpah Road and Cedar Canyon Road when I see power lines along the road
There are a number of residences in this area, where some families have lived for a century or more. - I've been riding Ivanpah Road for over two hours; I'll turn right onto Cedar Canyon Road just ahead
According to the sign, I have 20 miles until I reach Mid Hills campground, or 24 to Hole-in-the-Wall campground. I haven't decided yet which one is my destination. - The junction of Ivanpah Road and Cedar Canyon Road is my low point of the day, at about 4050 feet elevation
Great view of nearby Hackberry Mountain, which I might visit for the first time later during this trip. - Riding up Cedar Canyon Road, I spot an abandoned house, so the 10-ton bike pulls over to allow a few minutes of exploration
Any excuse for another break! - At first, I think the house has been vandalized, then I think maybe it's in the process of being demolished
This house doesn't look all that old, but maybe it has been renovated during past decades to intentionally remove all vestiges of the past. - A pile of debris sits in front of the little house on Cedar Canyon Road
This must be intentional, and not vandalism. - Behind the little house on Cedar Canyon Road, some of the old fake-brick tiles are neatly piled
It looks like this was once a little stucco house until it was clad in those ugly fake-brick tiles. Fake is still very much alive today, but not so much in this style that recalls the 1970s. - I peer through a broken window at the disarray inside the house
Faux-wood paneling! A few bottles of food items sit on the counter amongst the mess. Maybe the house is being repaired rather than demolished... - Near the old house, a bird lands atop a joshua tree
S/he's the security guard, watching my every move. - Some stretches of Cedar Canyon Road have significant sand accumulation, in addition to being washboarded
Since there's almost no traffic, I often ride all over the road, looking for the least bumpy and least sandy surface. I've been riding in this drunken style all day on these roads. - I can zoom in for good views of the Hackberry Mountains while riding Cedar Canyon Road
I might make it over to the Hackberry Mountains later during this trip, so I study the view. Of special interest is the tilted upward surface at the right. - Long stretches of Cedar Canyon Road are perfectly straight, but there are some curves and even a few 90-degree corners
It's funny how some parts of the road are nice and smooth, like here, while others are more challenging on the 10-ton bike. - I'm intrigued by this sign for Ashwell Road, since there's not much of a road visible here
However, there is a lot of private property in this area, so perhaps this trail leads to one of those tracts. - A short distance ahead is another modest old house along Cedar Canyon Road, against a Hackberry Mountains backdrop
I keep on riding, but this one would be fun to check out also. Maybe next time... - Oooo, a car is approaching on Cedar Canyon Road!
I've only seen a few cars today, which surprises me because it's Saturday, and parks get the most visitors on weekends. The road will make a 90-degree turn to the right in front of those hills ahead. - In this part of Lanfair Valley right now are some wide expanses of small yellow flowers
These might be Goldenbushes. A few buttes and hills rise out of Lanfair Valley, which otherwise looks almost flat (except that I'm riding a bicycle, and am quite aware that it's slightly uphill!) - The 10-ton mountain bike slowly gains altitude on Cedar Canyon Road
It's a slow, leisurely ride with a bit of a headwind, but perfect temperature: warm sun, cool breeze. - I'm riding a curvy stretch of Cedar Canyon Road now, heading straight toward Pinto Mountain for a few minutes
I hiked a piece of Pinto Mountain last year. Ahead in the distance are the pinnacles around Howe Spring, which I hope to visit in a few days. - As I approach Watson Wash on Cedar Canyon Road, I pass a turn-off to an old alignment of the 4WD Mojave Road
I can see that part of the narrow Mojave Road rolls quite steeply over the hills ahead, whereas the modern-day Cedar Canyon Road rides along much more gradually. - I rattle my way across the part of Cedar Canyon Road that crosses Watson Wash
To avoid the heavily washboarded surface, I ride on the far right whenever possible. However, occasional sand accumulations on the shoulder push me out into the middle of the road sometimes. Bounce, bounce. - After crossing Watson Wash, I turn off Cedar Canyon Road to visit the Bert Smith rock house
I've been here before, but it's a great excuse for another short break. - The Bert Smith rock house has an excellent view from the front door
The New York Mountains and Drum Peak sit on the other side of the valley. - To my surprise, the door to the Bert Smith rock house is not locked like it was when I last visited
Is the house supposed to be open? It's quite beautiful in a simple and basic way, based on stone and wood. My kind of place. - The Bert Smith rock house has a low ceiling and dark-colored surfaces
This dark interior would be oppressive in a deep forest, but not here, with big views and open spaces on all sides of the house. - The little windows that flank the fireplace in the Bert Smith rock house are hinged on the top
A small wooden block below the window rotates to secure it when in the closed position. - A small kitchen hides behind these built-in shelves; interesting joint in the beam
The National Parks Service has done a nice job restoring the Bert Smith rock house. I'm glad I've been able to visit the interior. - After my visit to the Bert Smith rock house, I continue riding westward on the washboard of Cedar Canyon Road
Mid Hills campground, my probable destination, is up in those hills to the left. However, I might change my mind and ride down to Hole-in-the-Wall campground instead. I don't need to decide yet. - Cedar Canyon Road bends again and heads toward Pinto Mountain for a few minutes
I've taken this photo on previous trips out here and can't resist taking it again. I chat briefly with a lone passing motorist who tells me he saw another bicyclist just a short while ago on this road. - I like this old range fence off Cedar Canyon Road in front of Pinto Mountain
Fences aren't built of rough-hewn wood like this any more. - I reach my shortcut road that connects Cedar Canyon Road with Black Canyon Road
It looks like many vehicles turn in here, but I think they mostly turn around and leave when they see how rough the road is. There aren't nearly so many tire tracks a bit further up the road. - As I climb the gentle hill, I reach a part of the shortcut road with far fewer tire tracks
The desert mallows grow freely here and obscure the road somewhat. - The shortcut road is only 3/4 mile long, but it's nice to be off the main roads for a few minutes
Segments of this road would require a high-clearance vehicle, but are fine on a mountain bike. - Hey, a fresh bicycle track on the shortcut road, and it isn't mine!
The motorist I spoke to back on Cedar Canyon Road told me he had seen another bicycle earlier, so this must be the route that the bicyclist followed. - I'm back out on a main road now (Black Canyon Road this time) and pass the windmill at Holliman Well
I'm up at about 5275 feet elevation now. - At the junction of Black Canyon Road and Wild Horse Canyon Road, I decide to turn right toward Mid Hills campground
I consider heading straight ahead toward Hole-in-the-Wall campground, since I need to go there tomorrow anyway (to recharge my cell phone). However, I like Mid Hills campground so much better, and I'm already up in the area. - A couple of short steep hills on the final stretch on Wild Horse Canyon Road toward Mid Hills campground always get me
It's always at the end of the day when I reach these hills, which is why they are always feel tougher than it seems like they should be. - I check out the view behind me while walking the 10-ton bike up the little hill
I can see all the way across Round Valley and Lanfair Valley to the Castle Mountains, over in the general area where I started this morning some 40 bicycle miles ago. - The Providence Mountains often catch a bit of pink light at the end of the day
- I make it up to the crest of Wild Horse Canyon Road and a few orange desert-mallow flowers say "hello"
Just a short flat stretch of road ahead before I arrive at Mid Hills campground. I should be able to zoom in on the Providence Mountains over there...