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- After seven miles, I arrive at the stop sign: I arrive at Searchlight, Nevada, population 576
Oh, look, a pedestrian! I haven't spoken to anybody since leaving Nipton two days ago. I ride down Hwy 95 through the middle of town to see what's here. This only takes a few minutes. - I pull in at one of Searchlight's two gas-station convenience stores, but no propane bottles are sold here
I send a couple of text messages and enjoy a can of soda and a bag of chips, while I decide what to do next. The next building is a motel; maybe I'll stay there tonight. - Of course, there's a casino next door (this is Nevada!) and it has a McDonald's, the only fast food in town
The "Terrible's" casino chain must be everywhere in Nevada... - At the south end of Searchlight, Hwy 95 leaves town for the open desert
I turn around and decide to check out a smaller road (Cottonwood Cove Rd) to see if there's anything I missed here. - Sweet! I stumble across another, smaller, general store and gas station that carries the propane bottle I want!
I buy another can of pop here and chat with the nice gal who runs the place. I wish I had found this store on Cottonwood Cove Rd first. - A lot of the older houses in Searchlight have a bit of old-style character, but need some work
It's great to see some of these old places hanging on a few years longer. - Across the road from the little general store is Searchlight's laundromat
It's too early in my trip to do a full load of laundry, but I'm glad to know this is here. There aren't many places where a camper can do laundry around Mojave National Preserve. - The hills in Searchlight provide a terraced effect in some neighborhoods
A lot of the newer houses in town are of the prefabricated type. - It makes a lot of sense to reduce the speed limit where it goes through town (crossing such a busy road can be interesting)
But the road is designed more for 50-mph traffic than 25. - I decide to check in for a night at Searchlight's only motel; I'll check out that old miner's cabin across the road tomorrow
It's a bit late in the day to start a ride into Mojave National Preserve (next destination Castle Peaks), especially given the strong headwind that I would face right now. - My room is clean, though the mattress rather worn-out, and it's bicycle-friendly
In fact, the woman at the office said she was thinking I might be a biker, once she saw the bicycle. She said that a fair number of cyclists stay here while passing through town, mostly during the bicycle-friendly spring weather. - A billboard next to the Searchlight motel advertises a "luxury" motel elsewhere
... at the same price that one pays here. But I prefer these old "main-street" motels. - After a bla meal at McDonald's, I settle in for an evening of TV and writing notes in my brick-walled room
It's hard to get a special order done right at McD's! Watching TV is always strange, since I rarely do it. I recharge my phone, send a few messages, hand-wash a few clothes, and sip Newcastle beer. My room cools down nicely overnight; I sleep well. - Breakfast in Searchlight means McDonald's again (ugh); I admire the old Colton Mine headframe on the way back to my motel room
I kept waking up with weird dreams all night long, but always fell back asleep instantly. I have a "big breakfast" (scrambled eggs, hotcakes, biscuit, sausage and hash-brown patty) plus an extra Egg McMuffin. McDonald's iced coffee is surprisingly decent, but it takes special effort for them to make it black for me (not put milk in it). - Looking down the street in Searchlight, I can see the forecast rain clouds hovering over the mountains where I'll be headed soon
I'm a bit apprehensive about today's ride to the New York Mountains since the winds are still really strong, and sporadic thunderstorms are in the day's forecast. - I think I'm leaving the Searchlight motel early, but the cleaning woman also arrives early, reminding me that check-out is 10h
Ooops, for some reason I thought check-out was 11h. No problem, I'm on my way out anyway... I pack up the 10-ton bike and add a full load of water on my front rack, making for heavy steering today, and off I go. - My first stop upon leaving the Searchlight motel is the old mining residences just across the road
This house is fairly large and has an interesting "eye" window protruding from the hipped roof. - Nearby is a second building, a small cabin: all this in "downtown Searchlight"
The small, later addition built onto the front of the cabin is about half as large as the cabin itself! - In the backyard sits a small outbuilding
The wires leading to it tell that it even had electricity. - A major luxury...
There's even a bit of sunshine in here. - Another luxury: an old hot water heater
Today's water heaters are wider than these old narrow ones. All design standards seem to evolve over the years... - And perhaps the biggest luxury of them all: electricity
The wiring here is the old knob-and-tube style, which one still occasionally finds in a functional state in old houses. - From behind the old miner's cabin, I look across the highway to last night's Searchlight motel
Nice cholla-cactus and creosote-bush garden! - OK, time to start today's ride; I start riding down Nevada 164 into the grey clouds
Not only do I have a headwind, but it's a bit chilly today and it looks like it's raining on my route ahead (and I don't have a raincoat). I'm wearing my sweater, which I wouldn't expect to need in the Mojave Desert sunshine in late May. - I spot a nice clump of pink buckwheat flowers along Highway 164 on the way out of Searchlight
Suddenly, while checking my cell phone, I realize that I had a one-hour time-zone change while I was in Searchlight. I hadn't even noticed, since my life out here isn't all that time-oriented. - From Nevada 164, I zoom in across the valley and see some rain clouds over the Castle Peaks, my destination today
The wet-weather system looks like it's moving off to the right (north). Good! - As I head into the clouds on Nevada 164, I see a little sunny spot on the road ahead
Will the sunny spot still be there when I reach that point? The headwind here is pretty strong and makes for slow, awkward riding. But I'm in no rush, just enjoying the ride and the scenery. - Indeed, the sunny spot on Nevada 164 stays put and I ride into it
The skid marks on the road go well with the deer-crossing warning sign. Some nice yellow blooms, probably desert marigolds, decorate the roadside here. I'll turn left at Walking Box Ranch Rd, just ahead. - I reach Walking Box Ranch Road and it's time to ride up that way and leave pavement for a few days
Despite the sunshine, I'm getting a few rain sprinkles here. If it starts raining in earnest, I may need to take shelter somewhere around the Walking Box Ranch buildings just up the road. - A row of 6 SUVs has stopped by the Walking Box Ranch, apparently preparing for a ride into the rain clouds ahead, like me
Perhaps a 4WD group ride? One of them is carrying a bicycle on the vehicle. The drivers are busy talking. I take a break nearby, but don't interrupt their party. - I take a short break over by the Walking Box Ranch entrance; it's not open to the public, but it's nice to look at
There are still a few rain sprinkles, but not enough to matter. Desert rain always smells great. I eat a Clif bar, change my GPS batteries, and transfer some water to my Camelbak, which is already down to the halfway level. - I pass the stationary 4WD folks and begin my ride up Walking Box Ranch Road; they soon depart too and pass me, one by one
Several of them wave as they pass, nice, fellow dirt-roaders that we are. - After half an hour, I take a short break at an old corral on Walking Box Ranch Road where I've stopped before
I can still, at times, get a glimpse of Searchlight on the other side of the valley from this area. - I'm often looking back behind me toward Nevada 164 and the Highland Range to take in the cloud formations
Walking Box Ranch Road is an easy ride; rather bumpy, and best done on a mountain bike, but only slightly uphill. Good views and low stress (no traffic) make for a good bicycle ride. - Though mostly gradual, Walking Box Ranch Road does have a few short rolling hills
I enjoy the views of Hart Peak and the Castle Mountains ahead when I ride Walking Box Ranch Road. - Looking back on Walking Box Ranch Road, it looks stormy over toward the McCullough Mountains where I camped 2 days ago
It's perhaps a bit wet over at Las Vegas too. Scattered severe thunderstorms were forecast for today, but I've been lucky enough so far to have missed them. - As Walking Box Ranch Road approaches the California border, I pass another old corral
The old dirt road behind it leads to the Malpais Spring area, where I camped on last spring's trip. I didn't try riding that road though to get there, however. - Here and there on Walking Box Ranch Road are bits of residual old pavement
The road was formerly maintained as an "oiled road." - I'm feeling happy now that I'm seeing views of the Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve
I've crossed the border and am now in California again, but I'm not in Mojave National Preserve just yet: that will be coming shortly. - Walking Box Ranch Road is a "Road Not Maintained" on the California side of the border
For an unmaintained road, this is actually not bad at all. People in cushy cars and not used to mountain biking might think otherwise though. - I pass the Castle Mountains area, just outside Mojave National Preserve, and remind myself to visit this area in the future
My campsite near Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve, last spring had a view of these hills. - I'm going to leave Walking Box Ranch Road here and follow this smaller road at my left toward Castle Peaks
A few minutes ago, I passed a car, which turned out to be from the "4WD group" I saw earlier (biologists, actually). It was enjoyable talking to the driver, who has knowledge of this area. He pointed out that the old power lines on Walking Box Ranch Road had been recently removed. I hadn't noticed, but as soon as he mentioned it, I remembered those power lines from previous trips here. - My new road, which I've not been on before, immediately drops into a sand-and-gravel drainage area
Uh oh, I hope this isn't one of these impossible desert roads. I consider turning around and following the longer, but more predictable route around this area, but decide to continue a bit further first, in case the road improves. - Phew, my road rises out of the gravel onto a smooth surface and passes a "Entering Mojave National Preserve" sign
I'm glad to be back! Now that I'm out of the wash, I notice that this road is abnormally straight and level. - I reach a brief detour down and around a washed-out section of this road and it occurs to me that this is an old railway grade
Click. That's why the road is so straight, level and narrow. I'll learn later that this is the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway that operated from 1906 to 1911. I'm really enjoying the joshua-tree forest here. - A close-up of the wash-out reveals buried posts that supported the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade
Perhaps drainage under the railway grade wasn't so good, hence the wash-out? - I pass an old road leading toward the Castle Peaks area, now closed by Wilderness markers
This old road, still marked on the old USGS quads, is slowly returning to nature. - The Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade is a great mountain-bike ride today, 100 years after the rail line was decommissioned
I'm now far enough along that I can see over to the section of the New York Mountains in the heart of Mojave National Preserve. - I take a quick break in the joshua-tree forest to enjoy the silence and try my cell phone; I also remove my sweater
I wasn't expecting my cell phone to work here, and it doesn't. I'm enjoying a degree of silence here because the heavy winds from earlier in the day have slowed down, which has also caused the temperature to warm up a bit. - I zoom in behind me for a closer look at the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade that I've been riding for a while
Interesting squiggle pattern of tire tracks on the old railway bed... - I haven't seen many wildflowers along the old railway grade, so a patch of paintbrush really catches my attention when I pass by
I'm anxious to get past this mound here for better views toward the New York Mountains. - Suddenly, I have a view across Lanfair Valley all the way to Tabletop Mountain (the distant flat-topped hill, of course)
Tabletop Mountain is a familiar landmark visible from so many locations in Mojave National Preserve, but I haven't seen this view of it before. - I take the detour around another wash-out on the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade
Most of this road is drivable by low-clearance cars, but these occasional wash-outs make higher-clearance more important. - I pass an old OX Ranch water tank, so I'll be leaving the Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade shortly
Somewhere a few hundred feet ahead, I should see a road leading toward the Castle Peaks. I'll turn there. I'm at about 4600 feet elevation now, up in the high country again. - I start riding, and sometimes walking, the 10-ton bike up Castle Peaks Road, the final leg of today's trip
I've got about 350 feet of elevation gain during these final few miles. It's not steep, but sometimes there's just enough loose sand on the road that it's easier to walk. - As I rise slowly, the views across Lanfair Valley become increasingly expansive
I'll be over in that area of Mojave National Preserve in a few days... - Castle Peaks Road heads across the land toward a slot between the rolling hills at upper-left
My views of the Castle Peaks are getting closer. - 10 minutes later, I'm almost at the next landmark, where Castle Peaks Road arrives at the slot in the rolling hills
In wide, open areas like this, it's always exciting to approach a feature that will probably completely change my views. - Between the rolling hills, Castle Peaks Road rises up a short steep hill onto a man-made berm overlooking a dry reservoir
The greenery in the dry reservoir suggests that it contained water quite recently. Presumably, this reservoir was built by former ranchers to help water their cattle. The road is looking a bit grown-in here. - The short, rugged descent down the hill off the dam on Castle Peaks Road would require high clearance
... and possibly four-wheel drive (in a motor vehicle). - Castle Peaks Road beyond the dry reservoir continues to deteriorate
Here I follow a brief detour to the left around a completely eroded segment of the road. The detour is the smoothest part of the road beyond the reservoir. - Immediately after the little detour on Castle Peaks Road is another sandy stretch, too deep for me to ride the 10-ton bike
Some of the tracks here look like they're from motorcycles (or bicycles?)... I'm getting tired from pushing the bike, so I start looking for a potential campsite as I trudge onward. - My wish is granted when I reach a well-used campsite a short distance ahead, just off Castle Peaks Road
A couple of nice juniper trees, a fire ring (that I likely won't use), and a bit of shelter from the wind make this a good spot. - I go for a short walk as I try to decide where to erect my tent, and I discover this luxury outdoor toilet
It's a bit weathered, but it still looks relatively splinter-free and quite serviceable! - I have to laugh while walking around my new campsite; I discover that I'm at the end of Castle Peaks Road without realizing it
The old road continues beyond this Wilderness boundary as a trail for hikers and horse riders, but is closed to cars and bicycles. My USGS map shows the entire road, but not the Wilderness boundary, so I thought there was still more ridable road ahead. - I set up camp next to a juniper tree, hoping that it might provide a bit of a wind break should I need it
I haven't seen any people since leaving Walking Box Ranch Road a few hours ago, and hopefully it will stay that way while I'm here! I'll be camping here at least one more night, possibly two. - Since I'm between a couple of hills, I don't get to see a full sunset here at the end of Castle Peaks Road
I go for a walk up on a nearby hill, make my add-boiling-water-to-bag meal, then settle in for the evening. Beautiful moonlight later shining into my tent, and the high winds of the day have disappeared. I go to sleep in the serenity at around 23h30, rather tired and a bit sore. But not all is completely silent. In the distance, I can hear the murmur of freight trains down in Ivanpah Valley on the other side of the New York Mountains, a familiar sound in much of Mojave National Preserve that I've come to enjoy. Also, occasional airplanes undo the silence. After dark, the temperature drops significantly, probably into the low 40s(F). Suddenly I'm cold! I wear double socks, long underwear, my sweater and my outer shell to stay comfortable in my sleeping bag. My add-boiling-water-to-bag meal tonight is Natural High "Classic BBQ Chicken and Rice." The sauce is good and robust, but that's all you can taste. Would I buy it again? Maybe, but only to add variety to my menu on a long trip; it's too one-dimensional. - Morning at Castle Peaks Road means I get to try out the deluxe facilities while listening to the quail; it works well!
I woke up several times overnight to hide my head further in my sleeping bag against the cold air, but otherwise slept so soundly that I wake up feeling like I have a hangover. I finally wake up around 9h, suddenly hot from the morning sun on my tent. - I notice bird activity near my tent and locate a nearly invisible bird's nest in an elbow of this joshua tree at centre-right
Breakfast is the usual granola, dried apricots and pineapple, vitamin C drink, plus two cold coffees. Enjoying the Starbucks' Tribute Blend and feeling somewhat refreshed this morning. It's now day 5 of this trip, and my strength is starting to build up. - I start today's hike by climbing up a hill and looking down at my tent in the little valley at the end of Castle Peaks Road
Nice view of the New York Mountains high peaks poking up above the hills. I'll hike over in that area next week. - Someone has a nest here sheltered against a boulder on top of the hill above my tent
Packrats? Crap, I forgot to bring my lip balm with me today. This is one mistake I usually make only once on each of Mojave trips. - I pass a few brilliant Indian paintbrush plants as I further climb the hills above my tent
Joshua trees are scattered, but not dense here. - I'm now at one of the high points of this ridge in the Castle Peaks area, at about 5225 feet elevation
Great views in all directions and some interesting cement-like rock formations. I'm about 250 feet above my tent here. - Good views over to the New York Mountains peaks from this Castle Peaks ridge
The two joshua trees here lend some scale to the size of the rock outcrops and the vastness of the area. I linger here for a few minutes to enjoy it. - From this ridge, the only way is down, so I continue eastward down into the canyon below
I'll drop about 200 feet in elevation here. It's a bit steep in places, but open enough that cross-country hiking and obstacle avoidance is easy. - To my surprise, I find a small stream in this unnamed Castle Peaks canyon
No spring is marked on my maps at this location, so I wasn't expecting to find any water between my tent and Indian Spring, my destination, on the other side of Castle Peaks. The water is clean and some bees are enjoying the stream's periphery. - I climb up the next hill and down into a juniper-studded valley
I'm enjoying my random up-and-down cross-country route, but it's certainly not the most efficient route. - I encounter a nice patch of Mojave asters on the way down into the valley below Castle Peaks
I'm a little late this year: many of the Mojave asters I've been seeing are near the end of their flowering season, unlike this one. - In this little valley below Castle Peaks, I reach an old closed road, a perfect trail after a bit of cross-country hiking
I check my maps and, yes, this is the same closed road that I saw while riding the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade yesterday. It's the only one in this area. - The cool rocks formations in the Castle Peaks area are endless; this one harbors a small natural arch
... so I have to make a short detour to check it out. - I crouch and walk through this little rock arch in the Castle Peaks area
How long did it take for this hole in the rock to erode? - On the other side of this Castle Peaks arch is a rock formation that looks like a tortoise, with its head extended
This rock tortoise (or is it a lizard?) even has an eye! - I climb over the next hill (a 75-foot rise), upon which I find a boulder with a tuft of cactus on its head
Now I'll drop down into a wash below where those joshua trees ahead look so distant. - I find a few Gooding's verbenas blooming in the wash
Sometimes these are quite abundant in the Mojave Desert highlands, but I haven't seen many yet on this trip; I'm probably a bit late in the season. - Now that I'm in a smooth-bottomed wash in the Castle Peaks area, my hiking speed is picking up a little
I've been hiking randomly up and down hills to explore the area, with no real route other than hiking in the general direction of Indian Spring, where I'll hopefully get some more water. - In this Castle Peaks wash, I encounter my first stray balloon of the day, trapped in a desert sage bush
Will I encounter more of these today? I stuff this one in my backpack for later disposal. - In this Castle Peaks wash is the most lush Desert four o'clock (Mirabilis multiflora) that I've seen so far on this trip
Many of these that I've seen so far are nearing the end of their flowering season. - Six minutes after my first balloon discovery, I stumble across a second one in the same Castle Peaks wash
This one is impaled on a cactus, so I decide not to collect it to throw in the trash later. It can stay here! - Hiking down this Castle Peaks wash is fun (it's a bit downhill), and then I reach this fairly recent barbed-wire fence
This might be the Mojave National Preserve boundary. There's plenty of room for me to crawl under the fence, so I do. I just hope it will be as easy to cross when I encounter it again in a short while. - A nice juxtaposition of pink cactus flowers and orange desert mallows in this Castle Peaks wash
Is there anything pinker than these cactus flowers? - Yellow Eriophyllum wallacei flowers are scattered intermittently in this Castle Peaks wash
I often mistake these for goldfields flowers. - A few stretches of this Castle Peaks wash have a lot of thorny Catclaw acacia bushes to avoid
Catclaw acacia are those grey leafless bushes that look dead. They are just beginning to sprout leaves at this time of year. I always gets hooked and stabbed by this plant if my hiking gets careless in areas like this! - A few rather large Chia sages grow in this Castle Peaks wash
This part of the wash is quite open, with fewer catclaw acacia bushes to watch out for: easy hiking. - I climb out of the wash and crawl under the barbed-wire fence again, in order to continue hiking toward Indian Spring
The wash below is starting to veer away from my desired direction. If I were to continue hiking in it, I'd eventually end up down around Walking Box Ranch Road. It would be an interesting hike, but it's not on today's route. - Near the barbed-wire fence is the brightest blooming desert sage I've seen yet on this trip
I lightly brush my hand against it to catch its wonderful aroma. - I drop down into the next wash that my route randomly crosses
A few milkweeds grow in this wash, not flowering yet. - I continue hiking more or less along the barbed-wire fence
... but I will soon need to veer off to my left to stay on track for my Indian Spring destination, regardless of any hills that may be in the way. - I climb over several low hills on my cross-country route toward Indian Spring
There's no easier way to cross this area except to go up and down against the topography. I'm enjoying the barrel cacti around here. - I notice a nice little "pineapple cactus" on my cross-country trek over the low hills
It would be easy to carelessly walk on this pile of thorns if it didn't have a protruding flower. - As I drop down into yet another wash, I realize I'm quite close to Taylor Spring (dry), where I hiked last year
If I were to turn around and hike down this wash in the downhill direction, I'd be at the Taylor Spring site in less than a 1/4 mile. - I climb up another hill on the way to Indian Spring and recognize the valley of junipers and joshua trees in front of me
I hiked there last year, and around Malpais Spring in front of those rocky hills. - My cross-country hiking ends temporarily when I hit the old closed road to Indian Spring, which serves as a nice trail
I have about a quarter mile to go until I reach Indian Spring. I try my cell phone since I remember having reception in some of this area, but it doesn't work right here. - As I approach Indian Spring, I notice a balloon fragment tangled in a catclaw bush
That's balloon #3 for today! I see a few doves and hope that's a sign that Indian Spring is full of water like it was last year. - Well, here I am at Indian Spring, New York Mountains, Mojave National Preserve
... not to be confused with the Indian Springs near Kelbaker Road. The water in the trough looks a bit greener than I remember from last year's visit to Indian Spring. Those grasses weren't growing in the trough last year. - Just like last year, bees are buzzing around the shallow water where it overflows from the Indian Spring trough
An overflowing water trough in the dry Mojave Desert: nice! But I'll stay away from this end of the tub! - I leisurely filter 3 1.5-litre bottles of that greenish water from the Indian Spring tub and it tastes pretty good
The water tastes better than the tap water I brought with me from the motel in Searchlight. In fact, it's the best water I've had so far on this trip. My MSR water filter is acting a bit erratic and I hope it's not about to fail. - I leave Indian Spring and start my way cross-country up to a saddle between two sets of pinnacles in the Castle Peaks
I stared at these pinnacles a lot while hiking in this area last year, but didn't do the climb up to the saddle. - The climb up to this Castle Peaks saddle is about 500 feet elevation in about 3/4 mile from Indian Spring down below
I'm rising quickly toward the saddle, and the cool breeze is making the uphill hike easier than I expected. - I'm almost there; just a little further and I'll be on that saddle between the two Castle Peaks pinnacle `groups`
The juniper trees provide a sense of scale as to how large these pinnacles are. - Great views back down into the valley behind me from this Castle Peaks saddle
I especially enjoyed hiking through the band of barrel cacti just below here. - Arrived! I sit here on the Castle Peaks saddle for a good 15 minutes, with pinnacles in front of me, and behind me
I eat an energy bar, take lots of photos, send a few texts and check phone messages (my cell phone works up here, as I thought it might). I'm at about 5475 feet elevation here. - From the Castle Peaks saddle, I can zoom in across the valley and just barely make out the Searchlight area
It's fun to just sit here and stare into the distance. - As I plot the continuation of my hike, I look down into a secluded valley on the other (west) side of the Castle Peaks saddle
Since I don't have a predetermined route today, I'm checking my GPS for route options. I'm not ready to drop back down into the wash just yet. - Instead of dropping down into the valley, I decide to skirt along this hill and hike over to the next Castle Peaks saddle
I'll hike carefully along this slope over to the slot between the hills straight ahead. I will need to descend a bit in order to avoid the steepest part of the slope ahead. - I get close to the slot in the hills and will hike up to the little pass between them at upper-right
It's slow hiking along here due to some loose rock and somewhat steep grade in places. - Looking to the south, I'm now in the upper part of that small valley between two Castle Peaks pinnacle `groups`
Not a lot of wildflowers here, but this white Mojave thistle (Cirsium neomexicana) is doing fine. - I walk up a boulder-strewn drainage area toward that pass in the Castle Peaks
What will I see up there? - The views behind me, toward Walking Box Ranch Road to the south, are striking in the late-day sunlight
There must be birds' nests up in that inaccessible pinnacle... - I reach this pass in the Castle Peaks and have an unexpected view to the north across the Ivanpah Valley
I'll continue hiking to my left here, up to the next Castle Peaks pinnacle area. - One short, steep hill and I'll be up at the next Castle Peaks pinnacles
It's fun navigating out here with a general direction, but without a precisely predetermined route. However, I have to keep checking my GPS and maps to make sure I don't end up on a slope that's a bit too steep to hike safely. I get vertigo easily. - To the west, I get a view I haven't seen before, with the New York Mountains peaks at upper-left
I keep staring at the distant set of pinnacles at upper-right beyond the juniper-studded hills, wondering exactly where they are. I think I'll be in that area on tomorrow's hike. - Phlox flowers on the north side of the Castle Peaks hills
Even small amounts of pink like this jump out against the green and grey Mojave Desert landscape. - My hike up to the pinnacles quickly gets a bit steep and slippery due to loose rock, so I veer to the right a little
I see a flatter patch of land just ahead. - I'm happy to reach the top of the hill; it's pretty steep here
Vertigo is starting to set in (I wish it wouldn't). - This Castle Peaks set of pinnacles is just as awesome as the last one; the one in front of me is Dove Peak
This is my high point for the day, around 5525 feet elevation. I take a short break here to enjoy it all. - Well, I guess I'll drop down into the valley between these Castle Peaks hills and start heading back to my campsite
I always hate to leave the high-elevation point of any hike, but Mojave Desert washes are just as much fun to explore as the high points. - I notice a natural arch in the Castle Peaks pinnacles as I start my way down the hill
The arch looks big enough that I might be able to climb up there and crawl through it, but I'm fixated on my downhill hike right now. - A few nice rock outcrops dot the hike down the wash into the valley below the Castle Peaks
It's an easy downhill, but I do have to zigzag a little to avoid rocks and thorny plants, as usual. - Oh, another little hole in the Castle Peaks rocks
I'm not sure this qualifies as a "natural arch," but the Broadwell Natural Arch that I visited last fall in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness is not much bigger than this. - I take a look behind me as I walk down the hill away from the Castle Peaks
I think that's the pinnacle I looked at from the other side a little while ago. Or is it? - A fallen joshua tree lays in this wash below the Castle Peaks
I'm getting really close to a wash that I hiked earlier today. - This pinnacle in the Castle Peaks is rather phallic
It would be interesting to see a time-lapse of how all the pinnacles here eroded slowly over time. - Oh, that barbed-wire fence; I forgot I might encounter this again
It's easy to crawl under, again, fortunately. I'll make a right turn in front of that hill ahead and hike up the wash there. - I'm now walking up a wash that I hiked down earlier today, but this time I'll go all the way to the crest ahead
Earlier, I climbed over the hills on my left to get here, but I want to join up with the old Castle Peaks road higher up the hill for the final walk back to camp. - The sandy wash radiates from the golden end-of-day sunlight
I find a few of my footprints from my hike here earlier today, but none from anybody else. - After another 20 minutes, I reach the top of the wash and locate the old Castle Peaks road
At a junction of two old, closed roads here, I start walking down the wrong one, but turn around after about 30 seconds when I realize the scenery is wrong. This point is at about 5175 feet elevation here. - The old Castle Peaks road leaves the pinnacles area and dips down between rolling hills on the way back to my campsite
The high peaks of the New York Mountains jut up in the distance. - Some stretches of the old, closed Castle Peaks road are quite eroded
... which is not really a surprise, since this appears to be a natural drainage corridor from the Castle Peaks area. A deer jumps out from nowhere and darts across the road. Just one deer? Where is the rest of the family? - Erosion is so severe in a few spots on the old Castle Peaks road that the roadbed is almost unrecognizable
I can see why the road is closed to vehicles beyond my campsite, since spots like this are impassible to most vehicles. It still makes for a nice trail. - I reach the Wilderness boundary and exit onto the part of Castle Peaks Road that is still open to vehicles
This has been such an enjoyable hike that I hate to see it come to an end. My strength has been building up over the past few days, so I feel good after hiking 10 miles: a bit tired of course, but not exhausted. - Home for the night at the Castle Peaks trailhead
I have worked up an appetite and looking forward to my next add-boiling-water-to-bag meal: Mountain House Beef Stew, always a favourite. I only ate one Clif bar, some chocolate and some dried pineapple during today's hike, which wasn't quite enough. - I don't get sunset between these hills near Castle Peaks, but I do see good sunset colors on the clouds
With almost no wind, the sky is a quiet, blinding black from dusk until the full moon rises later. A few birds chatter, then go to sleep; a few insects flit against my tent like rain sprinkles until the night gets chillier. It's still sweater weather. Looking forward to a great sleep, and I don't think I'll sleep cold again tonight. - Morning #2 at the end of Castle Peaks Road is warm and sunny
I'm glad I filtered extra water at Indian Spring yesterday so I can hike another day in this area. Even though I woke up cold around dawn, it's hot in the tent now whenever the light morning breeze stops. I tried to sleep in more, but I've been awake since around 8h30. - Insect webs (caterpillars?) on a Desert almond bush near my tent
I've seen quite a few of these webs around here. While eating my usual dry camp breakfast, I watch a mourning dove snuggling up against a joshua-tree branch; perhaps there's a nest there which I couldn't see. - Today's hike begins by walking about 1/3 mile down the non-Wilderness section of Castle Peaks Road
Some scarlet Indian paintbrush and yellow flowers (possibly Goldenbush) add occasional colour to the roadside. I see my tire tracks and footprints from two days ago. - I veer to the west (right) when I reach the dry reservoir 1/3 mile down Castle Peaks Road, instead of staying on the 'main road'
I can see the Castle Peaks Road climbing up over the berm on the other side of the reservoir. - I hike past another set of Wilderness markers on the west side of the Castle Peaks Road dry reservoir
The former ranch roads in this Wilderness area serve as good hiking trails these days, even though they aren't formally considered as trails. - A few Mojave asters are still blooming in this joshua-tree forest
These asters seem so delicate compared to their rugged environment. - The former ranch road cuts across a wide-open area in the New York Mountains foothills
I'm just high enough in the New York Mountains foothills that I can see all the way across Lanfair Valley to Table Mountain, at distant right, and Hackberry Mountain, at distant left behind that joshua tree. - I reach another dry reservoir with a Desert four o'clock blooming on the "shoreline"
The cracked clay shows that water does accumulate here, despite its absence today. A few quail and mourning doves flit about, breaking the silence. - I've seen these tiny pink flowers so many times, but can't remember what they are
Quite a few Mojave flowers are in this category of I-remember-I-forget-what-this-is, since I only see many of them when I'm visiting the Mojave Desert. - Miniature high-Mojave flower garden
Desert trumpets (the upright, dry stems), orange desert mallow, and tiny purple flowers whose name I forget. - I start walking up a wash away from the dry reservoir and inadvertently scare a few quail into a joshua tree
Actually, they startle me as much as I startle them; it's otherwise so quiet out here, with just a light breeze and no other people around. - I'm heading up a small drainage now toward that rounded hill on my way to the Bathtub Spring Peaks area
To keep the grade as gentle as possible, I'll soon veer a bit to the right, then back to the left when it's time to climb the big hill. - Does one ever see enough scarlet Indian paintbrush while hiking in the Mojave Desert?
It's a slightly uphill hike now, and my energy is just not kicking in yet. Maybe I needed to sleep more last night. Maybe I'm not yet inspired by the gentle topography here after yesterday's awesome hike in the Castle Peaks area. - The drainage wash has fizzled out and I find my self hiking uphill and cross-country amidst some gangly joshua trees
According to my GPS, I'm almost at the high point of this stretch. - To my surprise, the crest of this anonymous wash in the New York Mountains foothills overlooks some of the Ivanpah Valley; wow
Time for a short break and an energy bar. It's not just the energy bar that helps, but the views invigorate me too. Sometimes, the psychological is as important as the physical. - From this overlook above Ivanpah Valley, I'll hike to my left a bit to avoid the gulley, then to the right up the big hill
My goal is to get up on top of that hill at upper-right. - When I reach the base of the higher hill ahead overlooking Ivanpah Valley, it doesn't look like it will be as steep as expected
Onward and upward I go to the top of that hill ahead. Energy kicks in. Is it the energy bar I just ate? - Climbing this hill toward the Bathtub Spring Cliffs requires some care to avoid the rocks and ground-hugging cacti
I'm glad to be wearing long pants so as not to collect burrs and such on my socks and legs. I'll be up on top of this hill shortly! - I'm high enough now that I can see behind me to the Castle Peaks (center-left) and the Castle Mountains (center-right)
Interesting dark cloud shadow in the middle of my view... - I arrive at the top of the hill, which I'll call 'Bathtub Spring Peak,' since it has no official name
Commanding views of the badlands just below and across Ivanpah Valley, all the way to Clark Mountain and Ivanpah Dry Lake near Primm. - From this spot on Bathtub Spring Peak, I get a view of Cima Dome's distant, gentle curve that I haven't had before
The hills in the middle ground are in the Slaughterhouse Spring area, which I haven't visited yet. I hear a hawk screeching occasionally and then see it flying around. Maybe there are nests up here. - It's a steep drop from Bathtub Spring Peak down to the badlands below
It looks possible to slowly climb down the slope, but I plan on taking an easier way down behind me. - I'll walk over to the high point of Bathtub Spring Peak, that big rocky lump ahead
The elevation is around 5300 feet there. Of course, it's windy up here. The only other sound is that hawk screeching, wherever he is right now. My cell phone works here, so I send a couple of text messages. - Looking across Ivanpah Valley from Bathtub Spring Peak, I can make out a distant road leading up into the Ivanpah Mountains
I can see the lower part of Ivanpah Road snaking around in the middle ground. I'll be down around there soon. I wonder when a human was last up here... - Willow Wash, where I'll be hiking in a while, is in front of that hill in the middle ground
I'm intrigued by the badlands between there and here on Bathtub Spring Peak. The badlands, like the peak here, are probably rarely visited. - Another steep drop on the north face of Bathtub Spring Peak
It's interesting how the north side of the peak is cliff-like and heavily eroded, while the south side is a more even downhill. - Looking back from Bathtub Spring Peak, I can see over to the Castle Peaks pinnacles where I hiked yesterday
The mountains at distant left are, I believe, the McCullough Mountains outside Mojave National Preserve, where I hiked a few days ago. - Walking along the crest of Bathtub Spring Peak, I begin thinking about the next part of today's hike
As the saying goes, "What goes up must come down." - From the west end of Bathtub Spring Peak, I can see clearly down to Ivanpah Road, and over to the New York Mountains peaks
I think I can make out the faint traces that are the little road to Bathtub Spring, and the old Ivanpah railway bed. - I examine the southward view from Bathtub Spring Peak, since this will be my downhill route in a few minutes
I can see all the way to Hackberry Mountain at distant centre. I can even see a segment of Ivanpah Road at upper left, which I'll ride tomorrow on the 10-ton bike. - One more glance from Bathtub Spring Peak toward Ivanpah Dry Lake, then it's time to start heading downhill
I always quiz myself when I contemplate these grand views. I think the low mountains to the right of Ivanpah Dry Lake are the Lucy Gray Mountains; the McCullough Mountains would be a bit further to the right, outside this photo. - I begin the short steep hike from Bathtub Spring Peak down to Bathtub Spring itself, following a drainage corridor
Downhill we go! I follow the natural drainage channel downward. - The hike down the slope to Bathtub Spring is not fast, since it's steep, but it's enjoyable
I'm at a somewhat level spot here, and the next stretch is going to be steep, so I'm checking it out before committing myself to a route. - On my way down to Bathtub Spring, I look back to hear several noisy hawks hovering in the sky
I was hearing their screeches from time to time while up on Bathtub Spring Peak, but not always seeing them. Perhaps they didn't like my intrusion into their territory! - I'm almost down in the Bathtub Spring canyon now
Another short steep stretch to be taken carefully until I'm down there. - A few barrel cacti greet me as I arrive in the Bathtub Spring wash
I'm at about 4800 feet elevation now, 700 feet below the peak where I was a while ago, and have a couple hundred feet more descent ahead before I reach Bathtub Spring. - I always enjoy hiking down winding, rocky washes like this one on the way to Bathtub Spring, New York Mountains
So far, this wash appears to be typical for this type of geography: a scenic jumble of large and small rocks washed down from the steep adjacent hillside. - Nice, a little natural arch near Bathtub Spring, New York Mountains
I'm not quite a mile from Ivanpah Road, but this is just far enough from the main road that it probably doesn't get seen by many folks. - At the lower end of Bathtub Spring wash, a lot of small, loose rock makes hiking a little slower
I can make out a segment of Ivanpah Road from here at center-left. - I check my GPS and climb over a small hill to reach Bathtub Spring; there it is, in a wire cage!
This is the New York Mountains Bathtub Spring off Ivanpah Road, not the Bathtub Spring in the Mid Hills to the west. I'll visit them both during this trip, which may confuse this travelogue somewhat. - Bathtub Spring in the New York Mountains is true to its name and has a bathtub, inserted into an old rusted cistern
Despite surface algae, the water is fairly clear. The wire cage makes human access difficult; I'm glad I brought adequate water with me. The small box on a post contains a wildlife camera; I've been caught on these before! - New York Mountains' Bathtub Spring is home to hundreds of happy bees
A mineral crust on the bathtub betrays an earlier high-water level. - I walk a short distance down the old road that leads away from Bathtub Spring to meet the old Ivanpah railway grade
I can see Ivanpah Road down there, but I won't be going quite that far. I've ridden the 10-ton bike on Ivanpah Road many times, but this is the first time I've been in this area on foot. - I pass a patch of those tiny purple flowers I've been seeing occasionally
I still can't remember what these are, but I enjoy running across them. - I arrive at the bottom of Bathtub Spring Road and exit the Wilderness boundary
It's interesting to look up at the high point, Bathtub Spring Peak, where I was a little over an hour ago. - Here I am now at the old Ivanpah railway grade, which I never got around to visiting while passing by on previous trips
I'm looking forward to hiking this "road." Down at this lower elevation, the breeze is warm, not cool like the wind up on Bathtub Spring Peak. - It obviously required a lot of work to slice the old Ivanpah railway grade through the hills a century ago
Those were other times, a mining boom, not so different in some ways from today's "tech" boom. - Piling the earth for the raised Ivanpah railway bed in low areas would have been as much work as cutting through the hills
After a century, the railway bed is still mostly intact. Imagine a train riding down this road. - As I continue hiking along the abandoned Ivanpah railway grade, I notice that the road deteriorates
I notice some traces of tire tracks here, but not a lot of motor vehicles have been here recently. It might make an interesting rough-road mountain-bike ride. - I've seen a lot of lizards scurrying around today, and finally I manage to photograph one!
They're usually too fast for me, but this time, I think the lizard believes I am not seeing him. - Vegetation is slowly encroaching on the old Ivanpah railway grade
I've seen Mojave asters, Indian paintbrush and buckwheats growing along here. Here is a blooming paper flower bush (Psilostrophe cooperi). - On some stretches of the abandoned Ivanpah railway grade are good views into the old Vanderbilt mining district
That big "ant hill" in the middle ground is one of many mining sites in that area. That's another area that I need to explore one of these days. - Ooops! A total wash-out of the old Ivanpah railway grade
Maybe this didn't have good drainage under the earth berm here. Tire tracks show the route down into the wash and back up onto the railway grade. Yellow Prince's plume flowers bloom here. - I climb back up onto the Ivanpah railway grade after the wash-out and it's another slice through the rocks
.. and a few more yellow Prince's plume flowers. But very little traffic here during the past few years! - After a fun, level half hour on the old Ivanpah railway, it's time to climb down and hike cross-country over to Willow Wash
Willow Wash is just in front of that hill ahead, about 1/4 mile away. I'll make a right turn there to start the hike up Willow Wash toward camp. - But first, I'll stop to finish off this last delicious piece of orange-flavored chocolate
I hesitate to bring chocolate on warm-weather hiking trips because it melts and makes a mess. But the moderate temperatures so far on this trip make me happy that I brought chocolate this time! - Purple phacelia flowers (Desert canterbury bells) as I approach Willow Wash
I haven't seen many of these during this trip (I'm probably too late in the season). - I'm now in Willow Wash, Mojave National Preserve, at the lowest point of today's hike: 4175 feet elevation
It will be a gentle uphill in this wide wash and I should reach Willow Spring after about 1.5 miles.