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- Los Cruzeros
Mahoney Meadows Road crosses dry Coyote Creek at a spot called Los Cruzeros. Three campsites, vacant right now, perhaps due to the lack of water here at this time of year, are off to my right. - Los Cruzeros squirrel
A photogenic squirrel perches on a rock, watching me as I walk around Los Cruzeros to check out the scenery. I'm surprised that he doesn't seem disturbed by my presence at all. Maybe the hot, dry weather is encouraging him to stay still unless absolutely necessary. - Dry Coyote Creek at Los Cruzeros
Coyote Creek through Los Cruzeros is completely dry this Labor Day weekend. Old algal growths in the creek bed are dried up and bleached by the hot sun. - Willow Ridge Trail rises out of Los Cruzeros
I stare up at the narrow Willow Ridge Trail which climbs out of the valley here and is my route today over the mountains. - Heading up out of Los Cruzeros along the Willow Ridge Trail.
Heading up the lower part of the Willow Ridge Trail, looking back down to Los Cruzeros. The Mahoney Meadows Road that I just rode down is visible in the background descending down to the dry Coyote Creek bed. Beginning the hardest work of the day... Almost none of this trail is ridable uphill on a 10-ton bike. - Poison oak woods on Willow Ridge Trail
Willow Ridge Trail passes through a woodsy area for half a mile or so, and there's no breeze in here, just heat. Beautiful scenery, but tough with a bike. A few downed trees provide obstacles to get the bike past, while encroaching poison oak all along this narrow section brush up against my saddlebags (a hiker could easily avoid it though). - Willow Ridge Trail rises out of the poison oak forest to a more meadowy area.
Willow Ridge Trail slowly snakes upward out of the woods to a more open area where the sun is hotter, but there's a bit of a nice, refreshing breeze here. - Break time on the lower-middle section of Willow Ridge Trail!
Nice place for a break. - One of many steep sections on Willow Ridge Trail
It's pretty steep here; I'm already tired from dragging the bike just this far, and I've got a lot more of this ahead of me still. - A rare flat stretch along Willlow Ridge Trail
Ah, a brief, short, flat section along the trail where I could get on the bike again and ride a tenth of a mile or so. - Looking back down another steep part of the trail.
Yes, this trail is steep in places ... - Big manzanita along the trail.
I had a lot of problems at this point and had to drag the 10-ton bike across the trail and back, creating my own switchbacks which aren't part of the trail. I'm hot and tired, and the temperature must be around 90 degrees. I'm going through lots and lots of water. - Approaching Willow Spring
Getting close to Willow Spring! - Willow Spring itself
I made it, finally, to Willow Spring. I'm almost out of water, so I stop here to filter some of the spring water that is piped into the bin here. The end of my water purifier picks up some green slimy stuff from the water, but I wipe it off and ignore it. - Top of the Willow Ridge Trail, where it meets Willow Ridge Road, also called "roller coaster ridge"
Wow, I've finally reached the top of Willow Ridge Trail. It seemed like this moment would never come as I dragged my bike so slowly up the trail's 1.6 miles. Seems like it shouldn't have taken me all afternoon to get up here! - Up on the ridge finally on Willow Springs Road.
Up on the ridge finally on Willow Springs Road. I haven't passed the high point yet, but it feels like I have after having conquered the steep and narrow Willow Springs Trail. - Sunset approaching along Willow Ridge Road, getting higher.
Sunset approaching along Willow Ridge Road as I head toward Mississippi Lake, still several miles away. - Up on top of it all on Willow Ridge Road.
Up on top of it all on Willow Ridge Road. I'm up around 2500 feet. The Silicon Valley suburb of Morgan Hill is far off in the distance some 2500 feet below the cloud layer that is somewhat visible filling in the space between the distant hilltops, looking like haze. - Willow Ridge Road, lots of steep ups and downs as it rides on the ridge top. I have to drag the bike up some of the steep hills
Willow Ridge Road, lots of steep ups and downs as it rides on the ridge top. I have to drag the bike up some of the steep hills, but sometimes I can get enough speed going down one hill to propel me to the top of the next one, or most of the way at least. - My last decent photo along Willow Ridge Road before it gets dark.
My last decent photo along Willow Ridge Road before it gets dark. I ride the last two miles into Mississippi Lake with my bright headlight turned on. - During the 22-mile ride down Monterey Road from downtown San Jose to Morgan Hill, I stop at the tackle shop for drinks.
During the 22-mile ride down Monterey Road from downtown San Jose to Morgan Hill, I stop at the tackle shop for drinks in the old Coyote area and notice an old ice-dispensing machine. - Dunne Avenue winds its way to Henry Coe State Park some 2500 feet above the town of Morgan Hill.
Dunne Avenue winds its way some 2500 feet higher up in the mountains toward Henry Coe State Park over 10 miles after leaving the suburb town of Morgan Hill. - On the way up the hills Dunne Avenue passes Anderson Lake and continues onward and upward.
Looking down to Anderson Lake. - Looking down toward Morgan Hill on a different angle from this same area.
Looking down toward Morgan Hill on a different angle from this same area. - An upper valley along Dunne Avenue getting close to Henry Coe State Park.
An upper valley along Dunne Avenue getting close to Henry Coe State Park, whose entrance is more or less on top of the hills visible here. - Baby raccoons in the trash cans at Henry Coe State Park headquarters.
Baby raccoons in the trash cans at Henry Coe State Park headquarters. - After signing in for backpacking sites at Henry Coe State Park headquarters, I head down to the hidden Yerba Buena campsite.
After signing in for backpacking sites at Henry Coe State Park headquarters, I head down to the hidden Yerba Buena campsite a third of a mile behind headquarters down a hill and several switchbacks. Unfortunately, the trail has grown in a lot with grasses since the last time I used this campsite a couple of years ago and I'm having a lot of difficulty following the trail. - I've completely lost the trail to Yerba Buena campsite because grasses have taken over.
I've completely lost the trail to Yerba Buena campsite because grasses have taken over. But I know I'm really close because I remember how it was the last time I was here. The bike tumbled down a couple of times as I cut steeply across non-trail areas trying to rejoin the trail. - I finally make it to the Yerba Buena campsite with its picnic tables hidden in the shade of many big old oak trees.
I finally make it to the Yerba Buena campsite with its picnic tables hidden in the shade of many big old oak trees. Beautiful setting. Even though one can hear the sounds of people in the car campground up above, those folks have no idea that anyone is down here below them. This is an ideal spot for folks seeking real solitude but not willing to go far to find it. The fact that the trail to this isolated campsite has grown in so much over a few years is a sign to me that hardly anyone ever comes down here. - Tent is set up at the Yerba Buena campsite, home for the night.
Tent is set up at the Yerba Buena campsite, home for the night. - DSC00239
- Well, well, there turns out to be a series of big rollers here on the way down. I've just come down the first.
Actually, I walked the bike most of the way down this hill because the gravel was slippery and I didn't want to risk losing control. - Enjoying the morning outside my tent at Providence Mountains State Recreation Area
Do I really have to leave today? I really enjoyed my leisurely stay here yesterday, not doing anything too strenuous for a change. My evening campfires, thanks to the boxes of firewood that they sell at the visitor center, were awesome, and gave off lots of much-needed heat! Though still windy and chilly, it's a beautiful, sunny day in the desert and I'm looking forward to the climb over Foshay Pass shortly. - Some of these rollers are steep drop-offs that are too slippery and steep for me to ride down or up
Time for hike-a-bike! Even walking the bike down the hill requires some care and significant braking. I was expecting one of those awesome long downhills into the desert that makes a long hill climb worth the effort, so I'm feeling a bit cheated out of that by all these uphills on the way down! - Finally, I've come out of the mountains enough to see the entire Powerline Road and Kelso Dunes ahead of me
But I also see that I have more rollers to negotiate on the way down! At least I'm getting that great anticipated view of the Kelso Dunes now. From this vantage point, it's clear that this road is just cut across the terrain instead of following the natural contours of the land, which would have created an easier road with switchbacks. - The little six-site campground at Providence Mountains State Recreation Area
The historic visitor-centre buildings are slightly more sheltered from the wind, being closer to the steep Providence Mountains. Would I come back to this tiny campground? Definitely. - Another steep dip in the Powerline Road
Obviously, I can neither ride down nor up this dip! I wouldn't want to be in a motor vehicle without four-wheel drive on this road. - After breaking camp, I leave the Providence Mountains campground and coast down the hill to the desert floor on Essex Road
Just before leaving, a bus-load of high-school students from Las Vegas arrives, which is an odd disruption of the tranquility of this place. (I've been the only camper here the past two nights.) I leave the campground at 4300 feet at around 10h45. The steep hill was tough coming up a couple of days ago, and I recall a ranger telling me that he saw me riding very slowly up the hill (at about 3 mph probably). So it's of course a lot of fun to go back down now. I reach 32 mph on the steepest part; gravity just pulls me down Essex Road. - Finally, I reach the end (for me) of the Powerline Road where it crosses Kelbaker Road and I get back on pavement. I look back
It seemed like I would never make it to the end of those rollers! Gee, looking back, the road doesn't look too unfriendly at all... I consider riding over to Kelso Dunes and camping there one last night as planned. However, I'm running very low on food and that makes me uncomfortable. I would love to eat a snack right now, but all I have left is another add-boiling-water-to-pouch meal. So I decide to keep on going toward Baker and end the trip a day early. It's only another 40 miles further... and there's food in Baker waiting to be eaten! - About 3 miles down the hill from the Providence Mountains campground, I hear a big "clunk" and feel something dragging
Ooops, the brace holding my bike rack to the back of the seat post just snapped off! I pull over and calmly remove the broken rack adapter and bolt the rack directly to the bike's braze-ons instead. The rack is now a bit tilted, but it's more structurally sound like this anyway. Back on the road! - The Providence Mountains behind me, I stop at the abandoned Kelso Depot after a fast 8-mile downhill on paved Kelbaker Road
Kelso Depot is slated to be restored as a Mojave National Preserve visitor centre during the coming years. - At the bottom of the hill, at about 3000 feet, I leave the pavement of Essex Road
I start climbing the sandy Powerline Road back in the general direction from which I just came. This road crosses the Providence Mountains in about seven miles at Foshay Pass, and is the most remote road I've tried riding out here so far. - I take on the 12-mile climb up Kelbaker Road rising away from Kelso Depot
Kelbaker Road rises from 2100 feet here to a summit at 3800 feet, a long but moderate grade. I'm looking forward to arriving in Baker and eating a big meal! - A beautiful sunset illuminates the Providence Mountains behind me as I climb Kelbaker Road out of Kelso Valley toward Baker
Sunset is one of my favourite times to be out on a bicycle, but it also means that darkness will be here soon. - The gravelly road toward Foshay Pass rises slowly
I'm very glad that the road is proving (so far) to be mostly rideable. The sand patches at the beginning of the road made me wonder if I might be getting myself into trouble by trying to ride this road. - At the top of Kelbaker Road at 3800 feet, the last 20 miles into Baker at 925 feet will be a gentle downhill (in the dark)
I'm glad I've made it to the summit by sunset so I can see that orange desert-sunset glow from above before it disappears. Now that I've finished climbing and sweating, I put on an extra sweater, my outer shell, and my booties, to keep my feet from freezing. Headlight turned on. A few big slugs of water, and I'm ready to go. I switch into high gear and pedal easily to keep up 25 mph, and then it gets completely dark. With no other traffic and no moonlight, my headlight is the only light on the road. Until, eventually a car does come up behind me and passes, its headlights casting a surreal bright light in the dark surroundings. A little later, the blinding headlights of a lone oncoming car make it hard for me to see where the road is, so I pull over until it passes. When the car gets really close, I feel like it's coming straight at me like a bullet, a very eerie feeling. And then it passes and I return to my blissful, solitary world until I reach Baker, and its little glow of city lights. Gee, that was fun. - Along the way to Foshay Pass, there are a few steep sections, but the grade is mostly moderate
After the fast downhill on paved Essex Road a short while ago, I'm still getting used to my new slow speed on this rough road. No more 25 mph downhill! But I've been out here on the 10-ton bike for 10 days now and I've gotten pretty strong. My legs are enjoying the gentle work-out on this rocky road and are happy that there's not too much sand here. - Back in Baker, California, I rent a room at the Bun Boy Motel, waiting for tomorrow's Greyhound bus back to San José
I celebrate the end of the trip with a big Mexican meal at Los Dos Toritos down the road, some beer from the general store (I actually need all those extra calories right now), and smoke a couple of bowls of Patriot Flake to top it all off. - A bit higher up the road to Foshay Pass, I turn around to take in the view behind me
It's always fun to stop and take in the view behind oneself while climbing a hill and I need a few big slugs of water anyway. - This short, rocky hill on the road to Foshay Pass requires that I drag the bike up the hill little by little
Fortunately, most of the road hasn't been as steep as this part! - Entering Foshay Pass now, the actual summit is still a little further ahead
I'm more or less on top now, and it looks like I might reach an overlook down the other side after I cross this less-hilly stretch. - At the Foshay Pass summit in the Providence Mountains, looking back (east) at the desert behind me where I started my climb
I think this item here might be part of the gas pipeline that passes along this road. - Still at the Foshay Pass summit, the road ahead passes alongside a few ridgetops before it descends to the other side
I was expecting a big grand view of the Kelso Dunes down the other side, but I guess all the surrounding hills are in the way! - Hmmm.. As the Powerline Road begins to "descend," it looks like I will first have another little uphill
I'll have to drag my bike up that hill, it's pretty steep! - Late morning at my campsite at Providence Mountains State Recreation Area
There are only six campsites here, and mine is the only one that was occupied last night. Despite the heavy winds yesterday evening, it's a pleasant sunny morning here now. Staff at the Park office tell me that the wind supposedly reached 30 miles per hour. Apparently the winds do pick up like that from time to time at this location and campers occasionally leave unplanned because of it. - Excellent views eastward from the ledge on which the campground sits
I spend some time trying to identify roads and features in the distance where I might have been. - Northeast from Providence Mountains Campground, one gets a view of Wild Horse Mesa
Hole-in-the-Wall Campground is beyond that. Looks like nice hiking country... - After taking the tour of the Mitchell Caverns, I go for a walk up the hill behind the Park office
This could easily turn into a day-long hike way up into the Providence Mountains, but I'm feeling far too lazy today for anything like that. - Cholla cactus
There are lots of these around here; fortunately I haven't been bitten by one yet. - I've bought another box of fire wood from the Park office to have a campfire tonight
Earlier this morning, I had considered packing up and moving on, but the allure of the cave tour, another campfire and water at my disposal, easily convinced me to stay another day. - A view of the Mitchell Caverns campground from a bit higher up shows how it's little more than a small, scenic parking lot
Several cars come and go during the day, especially around the hours of the Mitchell Caverns cave tour, but it looks like the other five campsites here will be vacant tonight again. - Concrete attached to the inside of a garbage can lid at the campground
I thought the lid felt a little heavy when I opened the can. The sometimes-strong wind here is obviously a known force to contend with. - I go for another short walk on one of the trails at Mitchell Caverns
One of these trails is quite short and has a brochure available to help to identify the plants growing here. - More cholla cactus
I like how the needles make the cactus look luminous. - The wind is picking up and I think it's going to be another noisy night in the tent with the tent walls flapping hard
After a relaxing campfire and supper, I crawl back into the tent to get some sleep. It's a chilly night again, but without the icy feel of the nights that I spent higher up in the mountains. It's ironic to have so much noise inside (from the wind) in such an otherwise quiet place! Again, the strong winds die down around midnight, to my relief, and I sleep fairly well. - After the 10-mile ride on Route 66 from Goffs to Fenner, I take note of a dirt road leading to the Providence Mountains
I could shave a few miles off today's ride by taking this road, but it would be much slower than the longer ride on pavement via Essex due to its soft texture. So I continue on Route 66 after a snack stop at the Fenner gas station. - I'm back at Essex, California again, after riding 16.5 miles down historic Route 66 from Goffs, California
I'm standing near the Essex post office looking northwest up Essex Road. It's amazing how the freeway traffic on I-40, which I crossed a while ago at Fenner, is so visible from here at Essex, even though it's 6.5 miles away. The Providence Mountains, my destination today, fill in the background. - Looking southeast from the Essex post office, down Sunflower Springs Road, a dirt road that rises up over the mountains
There's a lot of remote territory to explore back there, including several Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Wilderness Areas. - Crossing over I-40 again on the Essex Road bridge
That "tube of civilization" that I photographed yesterday is below me, and Mitchell Caverns is up in the Providence Mountains is behind me. - Back at the junction of Essex Road and Black Canyon Road, I ride straight through toward Mitchell Caverns
No need to ride back up toward Hole-in-the-Wall or Mid Hills Campgrounds today. - The final five-mile stretch of Essex Road to Mitchell Caverns (Providence Mountains State Recreation Area)
There's no traffic and I can't see yet where the State Park sits at the end of the road in the shadow of the mountains. The road rises from just under 3000 feet to 4300 feet elevation. Providence Mountains State Recreation Area is a small State Park that's entirely surrounded by the federally-operated Mojave National Preserve. - The last mile or two before Providence Mountains State Recreation Area gets steeper
I'm in the shadow of the mountains now. The road steepens. and pedaling gets slower and slower. The last mile really gets me. I'm just keeping up 3.5 miles per hour. I finally arrive, check in at the Park office, and buy a box of wood for a campfire later on, a luxury I wasn't expecting. It's almost dark when I get around to setting up the tent. High winds up here make setting up the tent a real challenge and it takes me almost half an hour. It normally takes me just a few minutes to assemble. I tightly hold on to my freestanding tent (or is it a kite?) while I amass a collection of large rocks to put inside the tent on the north-facing side. All small, lightweight objects get packed back into my saddlebags, just in case the tent rips open and things start blowing away. After my campfire, trying to fall sleep inside the forever flapping tent proves to be the next challenge. I haven't camped in such high winds before and am hoping my inexpensive little Peak1 Aries tent will survive (and me with it). Preoccupied with the wind, I forget to notice that it's a rather chilly evening, but I'm getting used to that by now. Fortunately, desert weather can change rapidly. The high winds calm down significantly by midnight and I eventually fall asleep without too much difficulty after all. My tent has survived! - Essex Road has been rather desolate so far, so it's amusing to ride over the tube of civilization that is Interstate 40
I started at around 4500 feet elevation this morning and now I'm at 2100 feet. It doesn't seem like I've descended that much; none of this downhill has been steep, but it has been relaxing and enjoyable. - On Essex Road, it's 6.3 miles past Interstate 40 to the nearly dead town of Essex, California at the base of the distant hills
Essex Road drops a little, from 2100 feet to about 1700 feet at Essex. - Closer to Essex, I pass the "This is IT" RV park, and not much else
There doesn't seem to be much activity at "This is IT" at first glance. - Still on Essex Road, I look back at the IT RV Park and a number of trailers or buildings which weren't apparent while riding by
Maybe there are some folks living at "This is IT" after all. The Clipper Mountains, largely within the Clipper Mountains Wilderness, sit in the foreground, with the Providence Mountains (Mitchell Caverns) in the background. - The village of Essex on historic Route 66 is that collection of buildings a mile or so ahead
Essex Road ends there at Old Route 66, but it's possible to continue beyond up the dirt road that rises into the hills (Sunflower Springs Road). - Abandoned café and gas station at Essex
Surprisingly, the phone booth here is still in operation! - On the other side of Route 66 from the Essex post office sits this old house, which appears empty
The closest store is at Fenner, 6.5 miles northeast, where Route 66 crosses Interstate 40. I need to get some water, so I start riding up Route 66 in that direction. - The Essex post office next to the abandoned café and gas station
The Essex post office is still open. When it closes in a year or two, there will be no services at all left in Essex. A few people still live here. I stop in to buy a few stamps for postcards and have a good chat with the postal clerk, who has been working here since the mid-1960s. He's happy that there has been some effort to record the area's history in recent years. - Bright sun warms up this cold November morning at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, Mojave National Preserve
Again, I didn't sleep well last night due to the cold. I make a nice hot breakfast of Mountain High vegetable curry, which I decide is not their best backpacking meal, but it does hit the spot. - Fenner, California is mostly just this big gas station serving freeway traffic from Interstate 40
I've read that there was once a small town here at Fenner, but it apparently faded away over the years as many desert towns do. I stop here to pick up a few overpriced supplies and carry on. - The water taps at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground are still functional this morning
You never know when cold weather might cause water lines to freeze... Hole-in-the-Wall is really scenic, flat and open, and framed by wild-West mesas and hills. However, it's the only RV-friendly campground in Mojave National Preserve, so it can be full of noisy campers during warmer months of the year. I usually prefer the RV-unfriendly Mid Hills Campground seven miles up the road for this reason. - One final view of my campsite at Hole-in-the-Wall campground, Mojave National Preserve, before I pack up and leave
The campground is empty today, which of course I'm enjoying. Perhaps I should just stay here today and climb some of the surrounding hills that are calling me... - Goffs, California on old Route 66
This abandoned house looks like it's been sitting here like this for years. - The 10-ton bike is all packed up and we're leaving Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, Mojave National Preserve
Most importantly in this dry environment, I've filled up my water bottles before leaving. - From "downtown" Goffs, California, a dirt road called Mountain Springs Road runs south, connecting to Essex
A sign warns that the road is not maintained. - After exiting Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, I gradually descend Black Canyon Road southbound toward I-40
This part of Black Canyon Road is paved, the first pavement I've ridden in a couple of days. Effortless, rapid and pretty. At first there are a few Joshua trees, but then no more. - The Goffs General Store has just closed for the day (I wasn't expecting it to be open anyway)
I don't see a single person in town. The storekeeper is leaving after closing up for the day, so I ask him where a common camping spot might be in the the general area. He says that it's fine for me to pitch my tent on the property, so I do. Thank you! Actually, I was expecting to ride a few miles up Ivanpah Road back into Mojave National Preserve and camp somewhere there. But with the end of day approaching very quickly, and I've already ridden 40 miles today, I take advantage of the storekeeper's offer and camp in the carport out of the chilly evening wind. I think this is the first time I've pitched my tent on a concrete slab, and it feels bizarre. I heat up a pouch of lamb curry for supper under the carport (which doesn't feel very camper-like!) - After buying water at the Fenner gas station, I ride 10 miles further up Route 66 and arrive at Goffs, California
Goffs, California is really tiny, with only about 20 inhabitants. Here are their mailboxes. The Providence Mountains lurk high in the background on the left. - The old Goffs school house property
The old school house is being restored and the property being set up as a museum. Unfortunately it's closed today. A lot of volunteer work has gone into this project. - Black Canyon Road winds through the Colton Hills as it approaches Essex Road
I'm back in low-elevation creosote bush scrub now. This road is fairly well-travelled, but these hills are probably not often visited, and might make a good stop for a day hike (though I don't have time today). - At the foot of Black Canyon Road, Essex Road is reached
Turning right (northwest) leads to Mitchell Caverns (Providence Mountains State Recreation Area) after five miles; turning left (my route) leads to Interstate 40 and historic Route 66. - Looking northwest up Essex Road from the bottom of Black Canyon Road toward Mitchell Caverns and Providence Mountains
This isn't my route today, but perhaps I can come back here later; this looks like a worthwhile area to explore. - Cedar Canyon Road crosses the historic Old Mojave Road
The Old Mojave Road runs parallel to nearby Cedar Canyon Road in much of this area. - Taken east to west, Cedar Canyon Road is a slow route due to its occasional deep wash crossings, and ever-so-slight uphill
Gradually, my speed on Cedar Canyon Road slows to about 6.5 miles per hour and, oh, I remember this area so well from last year's ride out here, when it was already dark. - Kitty-litter sand and gravel on Cedar Canyon Road in the Watson Wash area
I have to walk the 10-ton bike in some of the areas like this if there's not enough traction. - Further beyond Watson Wash, Cedar Canyon Road rides across firm ground again
Of course, there's still plenty of that teeth-rattling washboard texture on the road. - Pinto Mountain decorates the views northward from Cedar Canyon Road as I enter the Mid Hills area
If I didn't have to think about practical issues like refilling my drinking water tonight, this might be a nice place to stop and go for a hike. - Patches of light snow survive from last night on the north side of hills facing Cedar Canyon Road in the Mid Hills
The sun is starting to go down and it's already partly hidden behind these hills. I feel an instant chill. I'm still pedalling uphill and sweating a bit, but my feet are getting cold. I put on my overshoes. - Sunset on Pinto Mountain, Mid Hills, Mojave National Preserve
This is always my favourite time of day to be out on my bike, despite the chill. After dark, it keeps getting colder as I approach Mid Hills Campground. So I decide to skip Mid Hills and ride seven miles downhill on Black Canyon Road to Hole-in-the-Wall Campground. It's 1000 feet lower there, and perhaps a bit less cold. When I pull into Hole-in-the-Wall Campground and pay the fee at the entrance kiosk, I pass a couple from Minnesota who say, "He's touring!" They're not on their bicycles on this trip, but they've done a lot of bicycle touring, so I end up spending much of the evening at their campsite chatting and trying to stay warm by their campfire. It's probably as cold here at Hole-in-the-Wall as it was up near Keystone Canyon last night. The campground is largely empty tonight, and the water taps are still functioning (not frozen). - The frost is especially thick on my bicycle tires
My sleeping bag wasn't adequate for last night's cold, but now that the sun's up, I'm happy to be here again. There's just enough heat that I manage to fall back asleep. I get up for good at 9h30. - Morning frost at sunrise at Trio Mine Road near Keystone Canyon
I don't usually get up at sunrise, but I'm sleepless from the cold. I was awake at 3h to make something hot to keep myself from freezing. The yellow rays of sunrise and the light frost on my tent and bike make for a beautiful morning. - After a hot ramen breakfast and fixing my flat tire, I go for a short walk in the area of my Trio Mine Road campsite
I haven't seen nor spoken to anyone since yesterday afternoon. So I'm astonished when two cross-country horse riders, ignoring the little road through the area, break the silence and pass by while I'm packing up. We wish each other a cheerful "good morning" and continue on with our activities. I wonder if they're doing a horsepacking trip, but I'm so surprised to see them that I forget to look at the gear they're carrying. - Trio Mine Road, on the way back to Ivanpah Road, 1/4 mile or so away
Despite the cold, I really like this landscape. There are even a few juniper trees growing here, which makes it feel very different from the lower desert areas. I could easily spend more time here exploring. There should be some old mine ruins just up the road. However, I don't have all that much water left, so I need to pack up and get to Mid Hills Campground by the end of the day before I run out. - I ride down the almost imperceptible slope of Ivanpah Road toward Cedar Canyon Road
Cedar Canyon Road will be about 11 miles down from Keystone Canyon Road and 800 feet lower. I stop along the way to tighten the bolt of my rear rack, which had come loose and announced itself with a loud clunk. - Street sign in the Mojave Desert at the junction of Ivanpah Road and New York Mountains Road
The New York Mountains sit in the background; last night's campsite next to Trio Mine Road is off to the right in this photo. Further down, near Cedar Canyon Road, I stop at the hard-to-find phone booth to call a friend and a neighbour to let them know that my trip is going well. The neighbour is almost paranoid about me travelling alone (he watches too much TV), while my friend who grew up in dry country doesn't find the idea scary at all. - This very gnarled old tree on Cedar Canyon Road gets my attention
I'm not always paying quite as much attention to the landscape here as I might, due to washboard texture of the road that occasionally requires my focus. I'll rise slowly for the rest of the day from about 4100 at the junction of Cedar Canyon and Ivanpah Roads to about 5400 feet on Black Canyon Road near Mid Hills Campground. - For about six miles, Cedar Canyon Road heads straight westward, after which several sharp corners appear in the road
This short stretch of Cedar Canyon Road points north toward the New York Mountains before turning sharply left and aiming west again. - I leave Nipton and start the 12-mile crawl Nipton Road hill toward the Nevada border and Crescent Peak beyond
It's still a bit cold this morning, but the sunshine feels good and the wind has died down. Fortunately, it appears to have cleared up a bit in the mountains too, where I'm going today. Looks like great bicycling weather, at least during the daylight hours! I have coffee at the Nipton store and end up chatting with the owner there. I take him up on his suggestion that I head to the New York Mountains via Nevada Highway 164 and Walking Box Ranch Road, instead of via Ivanpah Road as I had first planned. After a nice hot "outdoor" shower at Nipton and some breakfast, I'm on my way up the hill. - Looking back down at Nipton as I climb slowly
After climbing a bit, it's fun to look back down at Nipton in the Ivanpah Valley. Starting on an uphill with no warm-up first is not really the best way to get the day going, but, as the song says, "I will survive." - Pinkish gravel on Hart Mine Road; the New York Mountains are not too far away now
Not enough gravel to make bicycling too difficult. - New York Mountains not too far off in the distance; looks a bit snowy over there...
I'll be camping at the base of those mountains tonight and I'm a bit concerned about the weather conditions I might run into. - Passing by the three-house settlement of Barnwell
It's hard to tell if anyone lives at Barnwell or not. There's no snow (yet) at this corner of the New York Mountains. This marks the end of the Walking Box Ranch/Hart Mine Road route. I turn left here down Ivanpah Road for a just over a mile. - Welcome to Nevada!
The sign says it all. Actually, I won't be in Nevada for long. In a few miles beyond the summit, I'll start the ride up Walking Box Ranch Road, which reenters California, and then Mojave National Preserve. - Approaching the base of the New York Mountains, I ride a mile on Ivanpah Road, looking for the road to Keystone Canyon
Keystone Canyon is part-way up the New York Mountains ahead. It's clear that there's already some snow up there, so I won't attempt climbing too much higher into the hills than this. - Nipton Road, now Nevada Highway 164, rises through a pass between the New York Mountains and the McCullough Mountains
The views down toward Nipton and the Ivanpah Valley disappear behind me for good. I'm working up a sweat on this climb, but the wind is chilly enough that I almost feel cold. I peel off my outer sweater for a while, but put it back on as soon as I reach the 4900-foot summit and start riding downhill again. Gee, I've climbed 1900 feet already today? The downhill is fun and I'm cautiously counting my mileage to Walking Box Ranch Road to make sure that I don't miss it, in case it's not signed. - At the bottom of the remote, cold and eerie Keystone Canyon Road, I look for a spot to pitch my tent
Awesome landscape, but I don't want to ride any further into the cold clouds and snow flurries that I can see just up the road. I follow a side road, which seems to be the road to the old Trio Mine, and set up camp here. I get a rear flat tire when I roll my bike over a big Joshua-tree sprout that is as tough as a dagger. What's left of daylight disappears and after a few hours of darkness, I realize that it's damn cold here. It feels colder than it was up at Mid Hills Campground a few nights ago, and it was in the low 30s then, so I'm guessing it must be in the high 20s F. The clouds that made the end of day so gloomy clear out suddenly after a few hours. The exposed moonlight tells me that a short walk out in the dark would be splendid, except that I'm really cold right now and didn't bring warm-enough clothes for this. I'm not sure how well I'll sleep tonight. - Walking Box Ranch Road turns out to be easy to locate on Nevada Highway 164
Walking Box Ranch Road is a decent dirt road that seems to have been covered with pavement long ago. Some folks I had chatted with at Nipton called it the "molasses road," referring to the road's surface. I stop here to put on my outer shell and booties, to warm my cold feet. The New York Mountains sit on the distant horizon, some 1100 feet higher from here. - Views of the New York Mountains (today's destination) while heading west on Walking Box Ranch Road
Walking Box Ranch Road seems almost flat, but it does rise slowly, with a few little humps like these along the way. Dark clouds have moved in and obscured the sun, and the temperature feels like it might be dropping. - Walking Box Ranch Road passes fairly close to the Castle Peaks, which are visible from Nipton down below on the other side
Castle Peaks are actually part of the New York Mountains, but their lower stature makes them seem separate from the taller formations west of Ivanpah Road. Castle Peaks is a recommended hiking area, and I consider ending today's trip somewhere along here, but I already have the idea of camping closer to Keystone Canyon planted in my mind. So I continue. - There are a few sharp turns on Walking Box Ranch Road
A little bit of sunshine is still getting through... - Taking a Joshua-tree break on Walking Box Ranch Road
I'm starting to feel a chill, but the slight climb is keeping my body working just enough to stay warm. I took my booties off a while ago, but I may have to put them back on over my sneakers soon. - After that previous sharp curve on Walking Box Ranch Road, it looks like there might be another one ahead
I'm in a bright semi-sunny spot here with dark clouds surrounding me. - Ominous dark clouds overhead!
Somewhere along here, Walking Box Ranch Road becomes Hart Mine Road, but I haven't seen a road sign mentioning that. - One of the tent cabins at Nipton
It would be interesting to rent one of these on a cold night and have some heat during the evening - My Nipton campsite
My campsite is actually an RV site, complete with hookups, but since there are no RVs here right now, I'm camped in a parking spot. Another nice sunny morning with clouds floating around; still cool and windy though. I take the morning lazily, take a much-needed shower and drink several cups of coffee from the Nipton General Store to get going. A chat with Gerry, Nipton's owner, has me convinced to try riding up the Walking Box Ranch Road tomorrow, which I hadn't planned. - The historic Hotel Nipton building
I love the rustic cactus garden in front of this bed-and-breakfast. There's another such garden just off to my right. - The shower building (quonset hut) at Nipton
With fiberglass walls, it's not quite an outdoor shower, nor is it quite an indoor shower. - Inside the rustic Nipton shower building, dirt floors and all!
The dirt floors (or maybe I should say "sand floors") add a special character. Fortunately, there are wooden platforms outside the shower stalls so that you don't get your feet dirty after getting out of the shower. These showers are free for campers and can be used by folks passing through for a small price (five dollars?). People staying in the bed-and-breakfast don't use these; they have their own facilities inside the hotel. - Picnic table behind the Nipton campground
Those jagged hills are the Castle Peaks, which are inside the Mojave National Preserve (Nipton is just barely outside the Preserve). Castle Peaks is one of those spots that's on my very long list for a possible future visit. - Nipton General Store and the café building
The café is the building on the right. - Nipton Road crosses ugly I-15
I go on my day ride, climb a hill, and end up at I-15, nine miles away from Nipton. - Looking down into Ivanpah Valley, west of the I-15/Nipton Road interchange
At the end of Nipton Road, on the other side of I-15, exists a network of backroads, some of which lead to Wilderness Areas managed by the BLM (Bureau of Land Management). - Riding down the old road just west of I-15
I ride just a mile or so to get a taste of what the area looks like in case I decide to venture into the area beyond one day. This is my "day off" and I'm not intending to do serious distance or climbing today. It is a very scenic area, but significantly marred by the presence of the freeway passing through. To seriously enjoy this area, I would need to continue on much further, which I'm not prepared to do today. - Cattle-guard on Nipton Road at I-15
I turn around and head back toward Nipton, crossing the freeway again and riding over this cattle-guard along the way. Nipton is down in the valley below on the left (not quite visible in this photo), about nine miles away. - Top of Nipton Road, looking back toward "town"
Nipton is that little spot off in the distance on the way up to the hills in the background. I have a great downhill ahead of me to conclude today's short ride. Haze, sunshine and clouds intermingle in the sky. By 17h, dark clouds, heavy winds and a few sprinkles arrive at Nipton, but by 19h the bad weather system has cleared out, leaving only cold, clear skies and a full moon behind for the rest of the night. - Leaving Mid Hills Campground
It was cold last night, so I get up at 7h as soon as there is promise of a bit of warmth from the awakening sun. It is a slow, relaxing morning under the cold sun making morning tea and brown-rice ramen soup, and I even take time out to smoke a small, tasty bowl of McClelland's #2050 for dessert. - Heading back down the upper part of Wild Horse Canyon Road with a great view of Round Valley beyond
I clearly remember this delightful view from last year's trip out here. - At the bottom of my glorious downhill on Morning Star Mine Road, I meet the junction of Ivanpah Road on the way to Nipton
I turn left and ride a couple of miles to meet up with Nipton Road. - Descending Black Canyon Road to Cedar Canyon Road at the bottom
Upper Black Canyon Road here is a bit sandy, as I know from having ridden it in the uphill direction in complete darkness last year. Fortunately, I'm heading downhill today! - Heading down Nipton Road for the last five miles before reaching town (that blotch of a few buildings off in the distance)
I'm almost there, just a few more miles... - Stopping under a Joshua tree on Cedar Canyon Road
I ride three miles along Cedar Canyon Road, which is rather washboarded and sandy. I've managed to ride most of it without stopping and walking, but it is difficult here and there. - Full moon over Nipton
I reach Nipton at sunset, have a chat with the storekeeper and pay for my campsite. She gives me some laundry soap for my wash tonight--I don't want to buy a whole big box of the stuff (last year when I was here she gave me a few tea bags). I have time before closing to grab a combo BBQ plate at the café next door, delicious pork, turkey and beef with negligeable side dishes. I buy some Corona beer from the store at the 18h closing time and go about doing my laundry and enjoying the full moon before clouds roll in to cover it up and huge winds blow in to rattle my tent for a while (as if it needed it). Light snow is forecast tonight for the surrounding mountains, and it might translate into a bit of light rain for those of us down in the valleys. - Now on Death Valley Mine Road, I cross the junction of the old Mojave Road
Before starting up this road, I check my maps twice because this looks so remote and untravelled, perhaps not even a road. I will have almost seven miles to ride until I reach pavement again. But this is it, and it's great out here. - Death Valley Mine Road is almost just a trail in places
Death Valley Mine Road has a remote feel to it. Not a great place to get stranded. It's difficult here and there where it crosses a sandy wash, but most of it has enough traction for me to ride it. - Death Valley Mine Road is also rocky in places
But the rocky spots do provide some much-needed traction. Many of the rocks are pinkish quartz which adds to the luminescent quality of the landscape. - At the end of Death Valley Mine Road, I hit patches of deep sand on the Cima Road
It's slightly downhill from here to pavement at Cima, almost three miles away. I have to drag the bike through some of this sand, but it's ridable in between sandy stretches. - Beautiful open views across the Joshua tree forest on the way down to Cima
Cima Dome is visible from here behind that Joshua tree on the left; it's that ever-so-gentle curve on the horizon that constitutes the barely perceptible dome. That rocky mound straight ahead is Teutonia Peak, which I haven't hiked yet. - Close-up of the Cima Store and post office
I ring the bell and the shopkeeper, an older woman, comes out and opens the store. After buying a can of Mountain Dew and an Almond Joy bar (junk food for the granola man!), I go to the post office next door to mail a postcard to a friend. Well, it's her again, running the post office as well as the store, with separate exterior entrances for customers. Hello, goodbye, hello! We chat a bit, which is nice because I haven't spoken to anybody in a couple of days. She talks about her grand-children, who are adults now. - I reach the pavement of Kelso-Cima Road and the Cima Store
There doesn't seem to be any residences here at Cima, just this combination store/post office. - Beginning the ride down Morning Star Mine Road toward Nipton
I'm up around 4000 feet right now and will descend down toward 2500 feet. - Grand views of the Ivanpah Valley open up as I descend Morning Star Mine Road
I have a tail wind and reach 38.5 mph as I go down (a record for me), with extended stretches over 30 mph. - Morning at Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
I didn't take any photos when I got here last night, so it's time to catch up! Lots of pinon pines, banana yuccas, sagebrush and junipers up here. - Huge old juniper tree near my campsite at Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
One doesn't always associate juniper and pine trees with the Mojave Desert, but there are plenty of these trees up in the desert mountains here at Mid Hills Campground at 5500 feet. - These mountain-desert trees don't provide as much shade as you might get from big trees in a moister climate
There's a singular beauty to the gnarled starkness of these old trees up in the Mojave Desert mountains. - An old, crusty juniper by my campsite offers the perfect sit-down for a late-morning pipe
Coffee was good, my simple breakfast was good, and shortly I'll be heading down Wild Horse Canyon Road on a scenic, lightweight day ride. - I ride southward down Wild Horse Canyon Road away from Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
The dirt road winds around and over a series of hills as it descends 1000 feet, with sharp peaks of the Providence Mountains in the distance. If you've come to Mojave National Preserve in a motor vehicle with a bicycle in tow, Wild Horse Canyon Road makes for an excellent mountain-bike ride. - Wild Horse Canyon Road meanders over the hills
There are plenty of little ups on the way down. - I stop briefly at the top of Macedonia Canyon Road, though I won't be riding down that road today
Macedonia Canyon Road descends through the mountains down to the Kelso Depot area. I would like to ride down that route one day, but it looks sandy and is probably only feasible in the downhill direction with a 10-ton bike. - The lower part of Wild Horse Canyon Road passes interesting geological features like Wild Horse Mesa
The scenery in this area looks like an excerpt from an old wild-west movie. - Heavy sand appears on the lower parts of Wild Horse Canyon Road
Wild Horse Canyon Road is periodically graded, which gives the road the appearance having been carved out by a snow plow. Only two cars have passed me here on Wild Horse Canyon Road. - A horse grazes at the bottom of Wild Horse Canyon Road
Some of the land around here is ranch land, so I'm guessing that this horse is not wild, despite the name of the road. - At the end of Wild Horse Canyon Road, I start up Black Canyon Road, which is paved for half a mile or so
Hole-in-the-Wall Campground is just off to my left and I pull in there to fill up my water bottle. - Just beyond the end of the pavement, Black Canyon Road crosses a cattleguard
I turn back here to take in the views of the valley below down in the direction of old Route 66. I'll probably ride down that way tomorrow. - Black Canyon Road climbs slowly the next eight miles toward Mid Hills Campground
I even pass a couple of cars along this stretch of road. - An antique sign for the Cima Store 10 miles beyond sits at the top of Black Canyon Road
How old is this well-weathered sign? I turn around and look across the road before heading back to camp. - At the top of Black Canyon Road, I go left on Wild Horse Canyon Road for the last couple of miles back to Mid Hills Campground
Here, I get on the upper part of Wild Horse Canyon Road and return toward Mid Hills Campground a couple of miles to the west. A little daylight remains when I get back to Mid Hills Campground, so I ride the road through the campground and note that only three of the other 20-some campsites are occupied. I settle in at my campsite for another instant meal: Mountain High "spicy chicken stir fry and rice." I really like the reconstituted green beans in these meals, a tasty meal overall. Heavy winds move in after dark, making noises like loud traffic, sometimes forcing my tent to suck in and out. Sometimes the whirring sound of the wind just passes overhead and doesn't actually touch down and move my tent around. I go for a late-night walk, casting shadows under the full moon, to fill my water bottles in case the taps freeze up again tonight. The thermometer shows 32 degrees F (0 C). Back in the tent, I'm cold, bundle myself up with clothing and fall asleep to the roars of the wind overhead that envelop my tent once in a while. - At Kelso Depot, I turn north on Kelso-Cima Road and ride 14.4 miles: more slow uphill, back up to 3800 feet
I took another break at the abandoned Kelso Depot at 2100 feet before heading up Kelso-Cima Road. I was going to eat some dried apricots there, but a bee was buzzing around me and I didn't want a repeat of last year's experience here of being literally chased by a bee. While at Kelso Depot, I had an interesting chat with a local area woman (not everyone out here in the desert is a tourist). Now heading up the slight hill of Kelso-Cima Road, I'll turn off on Cedar Canyon Road and ride up into the Mid Hills when I reach 3800 feet. The Marl Mountains stand out on my left; I just passed the other side of them on the way down into Kelso Valley. - Continuing uphill on Kelso-Cima Road, looking ahead
Kelso-Cima Road is one of those typical desert hills that are so subtly uphill that you'd barely notice the rise while driving a car, but when you are pedaling it, it seems to go on forever. I have a major headwind here, so the subtle uphill is proving to be demanding. Mid Hills Campground, today's destination, is up near the top of those mountains to the right. It gets dark while I'm still on Kelso-Cima Road, with a dozen miles to go. I turn on my headlight once in a while if I see a car coming or if I need to see a sign; otherwise I'm riding mostly by moonlight. The Cedar Canyon area is really pretty by moonlight! I'm focusing on the slow, uphill ride and won't take any more photos until tomorrow morning. I'm exhausted and sweaty as I slip-slide up the final few sandy miles of Black Canyon Road, then Wild Horse Canyon Road in the dark. I'm happy that there's no traffic whatsoever because I'm often riding in the middle of the road to avoid the sandiest areas. I grab site #5 at Mid Hills Campground and change into a dry T-shirt (it's cold and windy up here, and I'm suddenly shivering!) I boil some water and get my instant meal (Mountain House beef teriyaki with rice) steeping while I set up the tent. The high winds make trying to fall asleep in the noisy tent impossible until they die down around midnight. I wake up several times during the night from the cold as the moon gets brighter. I go for a walk to check the thermometer at the park entrance, which reads 31 degrees F (-1 C). I'm thirsty and try to fill my water bottle from the tap, but nothing comes out; it must be frozen. I retreat to the tent for more sleep. - A few miles up Kelbaker Road, I stop for a short break along the edge of the lava beds
Nice boulders all over the place. I'm still trying to get used to the unwieldiness of the 10-ton bike. - A little further up the road, I climb up the edge of one of the lava flows to get a better view of the area
Last night's campsite is just off the left edge of the photo by those nearby hills. - I make another stop in the lava-flow area, this time at Black Tank Wash
I'm intrigued by this area, but I'm not carrying enough water to dry camp in a place like this tonight. - Beyond the old lava, Kelbaker Road continues to rise slowly
Looking back at the long, gentle hill that I've climbed, and am still climbing. - Looking back down behind me on Kelbaker Road as I approach the summit at 3800 feet
I'm well past the lava beds now, and I have a good view of the cinder cones off Aiken Mine Road in the distance. I take a water-and-snack break at the Kelbaker Road summit. - Once over the 3800-foot summit of Kelbaker Road, I start the 12-mile glide down to the abandoned Kelso Depot at 2100 feet
Though long, this downhill isn't steep. It winds around some hills (Marl Mountains and Kelso Mountains) that block what would otherwise be big views into Kelso Valley at the bottom. It's a fun ride down, as I still have a tailwind. I ride for extended periods at over 30 miles per hour. - I ride into Mojave National Preserve up Kelbaker Road away from Baker, California
I apparently forgot my helmet on the Greyhound bus, so I bought a hat at the general store in Baker before leaving town so that I'd have something on my head during the trip. A tailwind is pushing me nicely. Around the 10-mile point, which looks like the end of the road in this image, Kelbaker Road turns sharply to the right and continues into the heart of Mojave National Preserve. I turn left at that point and set up camp at the base of one of the Kelbaker Hills there. - Posts mark the beginning of a Wilderness area at the base of Kelbaker Hills
I set up camp near here on last year's Mojave National Preserve trip as well. I set up camp just before the sun goes down and get to bed early for a change, exhausted from the long bus ride. I forget to try photographing the beautiful sunset that takes place. - Wake up! After a rejuvenating sleep, I get up and snap a few photos of the Kelbaker Hills area before packing up
It was a bit chilly last night and windy enough that it made a lot of noise on the tent, which kept me from sleeping as much as I would have liked. Luckily it was not a downright cold night. The moon was nearly full, which made for a nice late-night walk around my campsite. Once the sun came up, it relaxed me and I managed to sleep in a bit more, very high-quality sleep. The Indian Springs area, which I won't visit on this trip, is in the hills in the background. - A different view of the Kelbaker Hills campsite showing the rocky hill behind it
I think I'll climb up that hill. - View northwest across the desert toward Soda Lake from Kelbaker Hills
The dirt road just below me is one of many that criss-cross this wide desert expanse. I prepare a quick breakfast and leave my Kelbaker Road campsite just before noon to head further into Mojave National Preserve. - 2195 Barrington Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia, 1982
One of the last buildings remaining on the southeast corner of Barrington and Cornwallis in 1982 before it was demolished for the urban-renewal road-widening project. - 5531-5533 Buddy Daye St. (formerly 113-115 Gerrish St), Halifax, 1982
- Rear view, 2521 and 2525 Barrington St, Halifax, 1982
- Rear view, 2521 and 2525 Barrington St, Halifax, 1982
- 2521 and 2525 Barrington St, Halifax, 1982
- Rabbitbrush season
- Windbreak
- Killdeer egg laid on the ground in a meager "nest"
- Low-lying lupines influence the pattern of ripples in the desert sand
- Desert dandelions blow in the wind
- At the edge of a Mojave Desert sand drift
- Antler and sagebrush, Death Valley National Park.
- Sundown, Mojave National Preserve, York Fire zone.
It's a huge loss—full recovery will take longer than most of us will live. Fire hadn't struck the area for a few hundred years. I found peace and some beauty in the altered landscape nonetheless. - Scarecrow Joshua tree, Mojave National Preserve, York Fire zone.
Only the upper part of this tree burned. - Day's end, Kelso Dunes, Mojave National Preserve.
- Creosote bush and roots, Mojave Desert.
- Creosote bush and dune.
- 2390-92 Creighton Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Fall 1982
At the corner of Buddy Daye Street (formerly named Gerrish Street). - The Akins Cottage, 2151 Brunswick Street (formerly 285 Brunswick), Halifax, 1982
One of the oldest houses in Halifax, built in the 1790s—also known as "Akins House National Historic Site of Canada."