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- In front of a Providence Mountains backdrop, I can see one of the toilet buildings at Mid Hills campground in the distance
Obviously, I won't be able to walk in a straight line from here to there due to the steep intervening drainages, but I'll try to make up a reasonably direct route as I go. - The luminosity of sunset starts to set in on the Mid Hills, with Eagle Rocks in the distance
Mid Hills campground should be over on the middle ridge ahead of me, somewhere to the left. - The northeast view from this vantage point provides an overview of Cedar Canyon that I haven't seen before
The view extends well beyond Cedar Canyon across the northern Mid Hills toward the Howe Spring area that I visited a few days ago. - I head southwest across the burned Mid Hills plateau back toward the campground, with Eagle Rocks in the distance
I have a panicked moment when I set my orange GPS unit on the ground and have a hard time finding it again because it blends in so well with the gravelly soil here. I walk around in circles until I relocate it. - Desert four o'clock flowers brighten up this brown landscape northeast of Mid Hills campground
I keep walking, enjoying the views, but these last few miles feel a bit longer than expected, perhaps because it's still often gently uphill and I'm getting tired. - From almost 400 feet above Cedar Canyon Road, I have a nice view to the north across to Seep Canyon, which I just hiked down
Seep Canyon is the downward indentation straight ahead and a bit to the left in the green hills in the background. Live Oak Spring is beyond that, at the bottom of the other side of the hill. - A burned joshua tree in the Mid Hills a couple hundred feet above the south side of Cedar Canyon Road
It will be quite a few years before this burned landscape grows back to be as green as the areas around Live Oak Spring and Seep Canyon that I hiked earlier today. - I walk across Cedar Canyon Road, then Cedar Wash, then climb up the hill on a trail-less route back to Mid Hills campground
The easiest, but longer, route from here back to Mid Hills campground would be to walk up Black Canyon Road. However, I want to explore a little and hike the hills in front of me instead. I eat a Larabar apple pie bar on the way up the hill. - A joshua tree sprouts in the heavily burned hills south of Cedar Canyon Road
The joshua tree sprout looks tender, but I learned that it's as tough as a nail by riding over one (and getting a flat tire) near Keystone Canyon during my 2000 Mojave National Preserve trip. - There's even a small pool of water here in Seep Canyon
Actually, this is more water than I found at Live Oak Spring earlier today. A bit stagnant, but I'm sure the wildlife likes it. - I near the bottom of Seep Canyon and the canyon widens a bit
Cedar Canyon Road should be not far ahead down below in front of the hills ahead. - I stumble upon that abandoned alignment of the old Mojave Road again just before arriving at Cedar Canyon Road
Some of the dark clouds have returned. I rode a piece of this road a couple of days ago on the way to Howe Spring. I'll walk a short distance up this road before beginning the climb back up to Mid Hills campground. - I continue the scenic descent down Seep Canyon
Walking here can be almost dizzying at times as I try to watch for obstacles on the ground and enjoy the texture festival around me at the same time. - I look back at another pile of rock that I just climbed down in Seep Canyon
I see another moist spot in a shady crevasse in the rocks. - A patch of grasses grows in a muddy spot in Seep Canyon like the ones at "real," identified springs
I've never thought before about what makes a marginal spring worthy of being identified and named. Some named desert springs don't even have this much vegetation. Perhaps nobody knows that this meagre spring exists? - Some of the rocks need to be hopped over
However, nothing in this canyon yet requires mountain-climbing skills. - I notice a few moist spots here and there as I climb over the rocks in what I've decided to call Seep Canyon
The moist spots aren't big enough to be considered as springs, so it's no surprise that they're not indicated on my maps. - There's a lot of interesting rock in this canyon
There's also a lot of rock to avoid while walking... - I figure I have about 1.5 miles of descent ahead of me in this little canyon
This area is untouched by the fires that burned much of the Mid Hills back in 2005. Pristine! - I pass through a green area with low shrubbery
The brush isn't so thick as to require bushwhacking or climbing out of the wash to avoid it. - I'm not sure what these red flowers are, but they look like something that hummingbirds would be happy with
These remind me of keckiella flowers... - I reach the unnamed pass in the Mid Hills above Live Oak Spring and get a glimpse south across Round Valley to Table Mountain
I hope that hiking down the other side toward Cedar Canyon Road and Mid Hills campground won't have too many obstacles! - I've arrived at the top of the wash that I identified on my maps and start walking down toward Cedar Canyon
Lots of footprints here, but I don't think any of them are from humans. - Climbing up the hill above Live Oak Spring turns out to be not so difficult
The cacti and rock demand all my attention, but the rock isn't as loose and slippery as I feared it might be. - Gaining height in the Mid Hills, I look northeast toward the hills that host Cabin Springs
Now that I've seen Live Oak Spring, Cabin Springs is the only spring area on the northwest side of the Mid Hills that I haven't seen yet. - On the way up the hill above Live Oak Spring, I turn back and get one of the better views of Cima Dome that I've had
Cima Dome is such a subtle formation that's it's only visible from a distance. When hiking in the Cima Dome area, you tend to just notice the joshua trees. - I pass some very interesting boulders above Live Oak Spring
Were these designs on the rocks produced by lichen? - Still heading uphill, I'm almost at the top of the hill above Live Oak Spring
The upper part of the climbing to this unnamed summit is fairly easy, but I keep wondering what I might encounter when I attempt to descend the other side. Hopefully I won't be forced to turn back and retrace my route. - I know I'm at Live Oak Spring when I come across a wilderness camera
I still don't see any water, however, nor even any mud. - I look into the brush at which the wilderness camera points and discover a dribble of water on the ground
Live Oak Spring is almost dry right now, but not quite. The tiny quantity of available water is that purplish reflection on the ground beneath the brush. - OK, I've checked out Live Oak Spring; now I'm going to try walking over the hills toward Mid Hills campground
I hope that by following some drainage areas on my maps I'll be able to make it down the other side of the hills and avoid the many treacherously steep areas of the Mid Hills. - After checking my maps, I realize that I'm not quite at Mojave National Preserve's Live Oak Spring
I climb up a small hill, walk a bit, and find an animal trail that presumably leads up to Live Oak Spring. - I find myself in a narrow, shaded drainage
According to my GPS, this looks like it should be the wash that leads out of Live Oak Spring. - I stumble across two campsites near the end of Live Oak Spring Road, Mojave National Preserve
This one is my favourite campsite of the two and is a possible candidate for a future bikepacking trip. - The road comes around a bend and heads southeast toward the Mid Hills and Live Oak Spring
Live Oak Spring must be one of those green patches at the centre-right. The whole area is rather green, so it's hard to tell from here where the spring might be, without checking my maps. - I walk a couple of miles up Live Oak Spring Road on a gentle uphill grade
I cross some old pipe that probably used to lead down to Thomas Place, which I believe was supplied with water from Live Oak Spring. - At Thomas Place, I take a break and relax by the fire ring for a moment
I make my cell-phone call here by the abandoned corrals, the only place where I'll have reception today. I drink a bunch of water and eat a blueberry Clif bar and some almonds. - I walk over to the old building here at Thomas Place
Most of the grey clouds from this morning have dissipated and it's quite a bit warmer down here in the sun at 4280 feet elevation, the lowest point of today's hike. I'm sweating. - A dugout at Thomas Place, Mojave National Preserve
This well-built structure was most likely a place to store food and other items away from the direct rays of the sun. - I take a peek inside the dugout at the old Thomas Place homestead
As I approach the dugout, a large bird flies out, but the interior is unusually free of debris for a wild place. I wonder if someone comes by and cleans this out from time to time? - Thomas Place, Mojave National Preserve
Due to its state of decay, it's hard to tell if this structure was just a garage or perhaps a garage combined with lodgings. I don't get too close because a lot of yellowjacket wasps are buzzing around and appear to have nests in the broken stucco walls. - I leave Thomas Place and walk straight ahead up the road toward Live Oak Spring, crossing Death Valley Mine Road on the way
Four-way intersections on your Mojave Desert maps often look like this in person: no stop signs here. - A bird flies past and lands in this cholla cactus
He seems undisturbed by my passing, probably knowing innately that I have no way of bothering him through all the thorns! - Death Valley Mine Road, Mojave National Preserve (marked as Cima Road on some maps)
I've ridden this road twice before, but this is the first time that I've walked it. Most of the road is fairly sandy, but rocks rise to the surface along this stretch. - I turn left into the old driveway leading down to Thomas Place, that abandoned building ahead
Thomas Place is a good place to take a short break. My cell phone hasn't had any reception for a few days, but it works here, so I make a call to change my outgoing message so callers know I'm not lost or missing. - I reach Cedar Wash, cross it, then climb up the other side and look back across Cedar Wash to the south
I'm at about 4525 feet elevation and have expansive views down toward Kelso Dunes, that tan patch in the distance. The pointy ridges just below my hat brim are around Macedonia Canyon and Chicken Water Spring, where I've already hiked on this trip. - When I reach Cedar Canyon Road, I stop to check my GPS for directions
I'm either just east or just west of Death Valley Mine Road (marked Cima Road on some maps), which is my next "trail." Cima Dome, that gentle curve on the horizon, is a prominent feature in views from this area. - I cross Cedar Canyon Road, which I rode up last week, and start walking up the lesser Death Valley Mine Road to my right
Cedar Canyon Road is a "main road" in this part of Mojave National Preserve, but no cars pass by while I'm here. I've never seen a pedestrian on Cedar Canyon Road. - Before it joins Cedar Wash below, Eagle Rocks wash narrows and curves through an opening in the hill
Though it's dry today, it's easy to imagine a temporary river rushing down this wash after a rainstorm, carrying sand and rocks. - A tall, lone pinon pine grows in Eagle Rocks wash
The 2005 fires heavily burned everything on both sides of the wash, but spared this big pine tree growing in the wash. I see a roadrunner and a black-eared jackrabbit in this area (not together). - A BBQ grate hangs from that lone pinon pine in the wash
This area feels rarely visited, but people have obviously camped here before! In fact, the USGS maps show this wash as hosting an old "drive-in road." - Cedar Canyon Road is now visible: that horizontal line down below
I enjoy starting a hike with a good downhill to get warmed up, and good views, to get inspired. Some people I know greatly prefer saving the downhill for the end of a hike. - On my way down the wash, my nose keeps picking up a highly aromatic scent that isn't sagebrush
I think it might be this plant, which I'm not familiar with. - A patch of fluffy pink seed heads greets me as I approach Eagle Rocks wash
That little straight line off in the distance is Cima Road rising up toward Kessler Peak. - Some cactus, and a few other flowers, are still blooming in the relative shelter of this area
The lichen on the rocks is as colourful as any of the few flowers down here. - The drainage "trail" will end just ahead at the base of the small mountain
I'll turn right and head down the Eagle Rocks wash (away from Eagle Rocks) when I get there. - After a half-mile ride down to the kiosk to pay for one more night camping, I return to site 22 and lock the bike to a juniper
I've never camped in one place in Mojave National Preserve for six nights consecutively, but the perfect weather up here at Mid Hills campground is a relief from the heat down below. - At noon, I start walking down the hill behind Mid Hills campsite 22
Though still a bit grey, it's an incredibly nice 70 degrees right now. I'll drop 1350 feet during the first four miles to the lowest point of the day. - I follow a sometimes-shady drainage that leads northwest down the hill from my campsite
This drainage will lead me down to the wider unnamed wash that heads northeast from Eagle Rocks. - While eating breakfast in the tent, I study my maps in preparation for today's hike over to Live Oak Spring
I get up shortly after 9h to rather grey skies, which allowed me to sleep in. Breakfast is a typical sampling of items in my black bag (tamari and cajun almonds, dried plums and pears), plus hot tea and blueberry electrolyte-replacer drink. - Mid Hills campground to Macedonia Canyon and back bike ride (Day 7)
14.9 bicycle miles with 1650 feet of elevation loss and gain. The bicycle route is the thin red line, while the highlighted loop is my hiking route. - Macedonia Canyon hike route (Day 7)
3.8 hiking miles with 640 feet of elevation gain (and loss). - Macedonia Canyon ride profile (Day 7)
14.9 bicycle miles with 1650 feet of elevation loss and gain. - Macedonia Canyon hike profile, Mojave National Preserve (Day 7)
3.8 hiking miles with 640 feet of elevation gain (and loss). - I'm mesmerized by the tentacles of dark clouds swimming above while I look behind me during my ride up Wild Horse Canyon Road
I stop along here to take way too many photos. The only motor vehicle I've seen today also stops along here, and the French tourists driving it are also fascinated and taking photos. I slowly crank my way up the road, surprised that I've had no knee problems yet during this trip. - As I get closer to Mid Hills campground, the dark clouds weaken, but a few raindrops fall
Peaceful dry rain falls occasionally for an hour during the evening, but things never get really wet. It keeps the flies away tonight. Unfortunately, Mid Hills campground is not empty tonight; the weekend crowd is arriving. A rather loud group of SUVs and dune buggies arrives nearby and chop part of a tree for their campfire, joking about "not seeing the signs" prohibiting vegetation removal. Fortunately, they go to bed early, probably working stiffs like me, tired early on a Friday night after a long work week and a few beers. Supper is Mountain House Jamaican Style Chicken and Rice, which is really good. The pronounced allspice flavour adds a real Jamaican touch, and the chicken chunks have a chewy texture that I really like (though I know not everyone would). Buy this one again! I stay up late and can hear someone in the next campsite snoring! The great thing about Mid Hills campground is that you don't really see your neighbours because of the rolling terrain, even though you may hear them. - A tree grows in the wash in Macedonia Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
The occasionally used road winds around the tree, which looks like it might be dead. - I ride back up through the invisible-until-you-get-to-it gate at the top of Macedonia Canyon Road
I'm now officially out of Macedonia Canyon. - A quick 270-degree turn of the bike and I'm on Wild Horse Canyon Road again and on my way back to Mid Hills campground
I'm at about 4950 feet elevation here and will climb back up to 5600 feet at camp over the final 7.5 miles or so. - On the way up Macedonia Canyon Road
Some of those dark clouds are returning. It's slow-going, but I'm ahead of schedule since I thought I would need to walk the bike much of the way up this road. - From the low point of today's travels at about 4000 feet, I walk back up Macedonia Canyon a half-mile or so to fetch my bicycle
On the way up the hill, this patch of silver plants, probably asters, catches my attention. My Delorme GPS makes getting back to the bike so easy in this area of numerous old roads. I eat a chocolate energy bar when I get back to the bike at 17h exactly. - I've got 700 feet of elevation gain on Macedonia Canyon Road ahead of me and I'm sweating hard already!
As they say, "take it slowly, but take it." I do just that, and all goes well. - Macedonia Canyon Road is quite sandy, which is why I've never ventured down here on my previous Mojave National Preserve trips
I'm doing better on this uphill than expected, for which I again credit my tough 2.35-inch Serfas Swoop mountain-biking tires. I'm sure the energy bar and the nice scenery have contributed positively to my enjoyment of this uphill. - One of several debris piles near the cabin in Macedonia Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
This may have been a former outbuilding rather than a random pile of junk. - I take one last look at the Macedonia Canyon cabin as I begin walking away down the wash
Macedonia Spring is just a half-mile down the hill, so I'm going to check it out before I ride back to Mid Hills campground. - Below the Macedonia Canyon cabin is an old rusty stove
I guess this was discarded when the modern stove that's still in the cabin was installed. This looks like an old oil or wood stove, whereas the one in the cabin looks like a gas stove. - More junk near the Macedonia Canyon cabin!
Mattress springs and a garbage can. The padding that was once on the mattress was probably long ago confiscated by birds and rats building their nests. - When I reach Macedonia Spring, I dont find any water at all
Not even a little bit of moisture, despite the greenery here. I saw a deer and two jackrabbits, one with a white fluffy tail, on the way here. I walk up the drainage area anyway just in case there's water that I've missed. - Rhus trilobata bushes at Macedonia Spring instead of water
I've noticed that rhus trilobata grows in dry areas which get water during the earlier months of the year. Even though this plant spooks me because it looks a lot like (and is related to) poison oak, I planted a couple of these in my garden in San José, where they don't grow into dense bushes like they do here. - A bit disappointed at having discovered only dryness at Macedonia Spring, I walk back down the drainage
I scare a lot of quail while walking here. Cackle, cackle. The views from here across the hot Kelso Valley below are quite nice with the gentle curve of Cima Dome on the horizon. - One of the bottom drawers of the stove is labelled "do not use"
What could be the problem with this bottom drawer of the stove? - Labels on the stove inside the cabin in Macedonia Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
A meticulous person took the time to label the knobs for each of the stove's top burners with one of those fancy labelling machines that were quite modern in the 1970s. - The other bottom drawer of the stove is full of packrat materials
Perhaps rats were living here at the same time as humans, hence the "do not use" label on the adjacent lower drawer... - More 1970s' plastic antiques in the cabin in Macedonia Canyon
A record player and a radio. I'm surprised that these items are still here and thank all the previous visitors for leaving them for me to discover. - This structure near the Macedonia Canyon cabin was apparently the outhouse
Private property, keep out! The dark rain clouds from earlier today seem to have mostly blown away in favour of bright blue skies (and slightly warmer temperatures). - Inside the cabin in Macedonia Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
The cabin contains two rooms: the "old room" and the "new room." Here I'm looking into the old room from the new room. The fake brick asphalt was once an exterior wall, and is now a decorative element in the new room. - An old broken soda-pop bottle, of a brand named Bubble-Up
I've never heard of Bubble-Up. The notation "kiss of lemon" near the bottle cap suggests that this may have been a 7-Up clone; probably not a very successful one. - View of the east side of the cabin in Macedonia Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
The dark-red exterior finish (what's left of it) is a sort of rolled-out asphalt shingle sheet with a fake-brick pattern. The white part of the structure looks like a later add-on. - Lots of debris surrounds the Macedonia Canyon cabin, including this old barbeque grill
In an urban area, this would probably be seen as just trash, but it's considered "historic trash" when found in an isolated area of Mojave National Preserve. What is an antique, and what isn't? - The Macedonia Canyon cabin has definitely seen better days
When I come across old structures like these, I always wonder when they were last inhabited and how much of the deterioration has been brought about by vandalism rather than sheer aging. - According to my maps and GPS, an old road exists in the gulley just below
It doesn't look like an old road from here, but I walk down the wash anyway since it's probably the best route to the Macedonia Canyon cabin. - And voilà, there it is, the Macedonia Canyon cabin
Or whatever it is... maybe it's not a cabin at all, and just a storage shed. I'll climb up the hill and find out. - Atop the little hill, I get a better look at the Macedonia Canyon cabin
More oil drums scattered around here, as well as a torpedo-like object that looks like an old-style hot-water tank. - A final glance at the orange tailings pile near Columbia Mine, Macedonia Canyon
Further up the hillside to my right are larger mine ruins, probably the main part of the Columbia Mine. With more time, I'd walk up that way, but what I really want to see right now is the building further down the valley. - White buckwheat flowers in Macedonia Canyon valley
I walk over a couple of low hills and then down toward the cabin in Macedonia Canyon. The dark clouds linger, but they haven't produced any rain since I left my campsite at Mid Hills campground. - I reach the orange tailings pile at Columbia Mine and see a "danger" sign
Old mine holes like this one scattered across the expansive Mojave National Preserve are slowly being marked by appropriate "danger" signs. I hope that doesn't mean we'll eventually have a paved road leading here. - I don't know how deep this mine hole is at Columbia Mine, Macedonia Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
I'm not going to get any closer to try to find out... - Approaching the Columbia Mine area, I pass a few abandoned metal tanks
Many old, rusty cans lay around here also. - I ride up the track into Macedonia Canyon valley, but the hard-packed surface doesn't last, so I park the bike and start hiking
I stash my bike behind some bushes, reset the GPS to help me find it again, and start walking up the hill with my backpack. - Up on a hill in the Macedonia Canyon valley, I stop to check my maps and GPS
I'm walking here with no predetermined destination, just exploring, and it's time to decide where I'm headed! I'm hungry and eat a blueberry Clif bar before going further. - I decide to head over to the remnants of the Columbia Mine, those small orangish mounds in the distance
In the background is Columbia Mountain, behind which is the valley where I hiked a few days ago to Chicken Water Spring. It's hard to pick a hiking route here because of the small hills everywhere. - After a few miles, I turn at Macedonia Canyon Road and pass through the flimsy barbed-wire gate
Finally, I'll explore Macedonia Canyon today; I've been considering riding down this road for years, but didn't fit it into any of my previous Mojave National Preserve trips. I rode down the first quarter-mile during my 2006 trip here just to check it out. - I begin the gradual descent down Macedonia Canyon Road, Mojave National Preserve
I'll drop down about 750 feet over about 2.5 miles. Of course, the road is rather sandy, since it runs down a wash, and my fat tires hiss while they ski downwards. I slip and fall off the bike while riding through a sand trap. - I pull over along Macedonia Canyon Road to examine what's left of an old foundation
The structure was not very large. Given the amount of work that went into constructing this foundation, a good guess is that there may have been a cabin here at one time. - Down at about 4125 feet, I turn up an old road that leads into the Macedonia Canyon valley
An old weathered sign here indicates the main Macedonia Canyon Road. If you look closely, you'll see a small building at the bottom of the hills in the distance. - A noise outside my tent proves to be a lizard scurrying about
I wake up late this morning, around 9h, which is possible due to many dark clouds hiding the sun. A few rain sprinkles make me wonder what to wear on today's bike-hike and whether I should go anywhere at all. Breakfast is as usual: tea, granola, dried pineapple, dried dragon fruit, dried peaches (yum), tamari almonds, and a tasty cranberry electrolyte-replacer drink that I should have bought more of. - I keep delaying my departure to Macedonia Canyon due to the light rain that falls from time to time
It hasn't rained enough for anything to get wet, so I finally decide to leave around 13h15. It's a pleasant 77 degrees and doesn't get much warmer due to the clouds hiding the sun. I finally decide that I might as well do my planned bike ride and hike in Macedonia Canyon despite any possible rain, since I'll get wet anyway, even if I stay here at Mid Hills campground. - The fun ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road looks different today with the ominous clouds hovering above the Mid Hills
Otherwise, today's ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road starts out the same as my ride down to Wild Horse Mesa a couple of days ago. - Elevation profile of today's ride from Mid Hills campground to Howe Spring and back (Day 6)
- Bicycle route from Mid Hills campground to Howe Spring (Day 6)
- This recycling bin at Mid Hills campground takes on an incredible intense blue colour in its stark surroundings
Adding to the effect is the attenuated lighting caused by the patch of grey clouds that have been floating around all day. Mid Hills campground is unoccupied again tonight, except for me and one other party (hurray again!) - Back at Mid Hills campsite 22 after my ride to Howe Spring, I take a break before settling in and preparing supper
Supper will be Mountain House Sweet and Sour Pork (excellent as always), plus Trader Joe's turkey jerky and some tamari almonds. - This evening's clouds make for a colourful sunset at Mid Hills campground site 22 after the ride to Howe Spring
It's quiet again, not much wind tonight and I listen to the song of crickets throughout the evening. A few moths flit against my tent after dusk when I turn on the flashlight lantern suspended from my tent's ceiling. A pinyon jay squawks in a nearby tree. Life is simple. - The ride back up the Cedar Canyon-Black Canyon cutoff road is slow, but easier than expected
The grade is not steep and my oversized Serfas Swoop tires really help maintain traction on the awkward surface. A lot of the grass-like wands growing along here are desert mallows which would have been covered with bright-orange flowers a month ago. - After the cutoff road, I ride 1.5 miles up Black Canyon Road, then the final two hilly miles up to Mid Hills campground
Of course I like this flat stretch of Black Canyon Road here where it passes through Round Valley. - I stare at this unnamed mountain just south of Cedar Canyon Road while riding past it
This mountain is probably rarely visited and would make for an interesting short, steep hike. Mojave National Preserve should have a slogan like "Land of Nooks and Crannies" due to the endless quantity of features like this to explore. - Cedar Canyon Road turns and heads briefly north toward Pinto Mountain before resuming its westward trek
Hey, I've photographed this before! Here is how it looked here in November 2000. - Cedar Canyon Road crosses a cattle guard and offers a detour for those not wishing to cross the cattle guard
Cattle guards aren't that awkward to drive over, but judging by the well-worn tracks around this one, some people have a need to avoid them. - I leave Cedar Canyon Road and ride up the 3/4-mile-long shortcut road to Black Canyon Road
I came down this shortcut road earlier today, but I've had to look closely for it on the way back to Mid Hills campground, as I had never noticed this road during my previous rides on Cedar Canyon Road. - I ride briefly through the sagebrush in Watson Wash, then rise out of the wash after turning onto Cedar Canyon Road
It will be pretty much all uphill from here at 4800 feet back to my Mid Hills campground site at 5600 feet. - I come upon a severe wash-out and figure that I must have made a wrong turn; I didn't see this on the way to Howe Spring
There are a number of small roads in this area that connect to each other. I check the recording on my GPS and verify that I did in fact make a wrong turn, so I turn around and get back on track. - Howe Spring Road dips into several sandy washes as it hugs the west side of Pinto Valley
I'm riding at 10-15 miles per hour along here, and I must say that it makes for a nice mountain-bike ride. - This long, straight stretch of Howe Spring Road makes me feel like I'm somewhere other than the Mojave Desert
Even though Pinto Valley isn't flat, it can feel like riding across a prairie due to the openness of the terrain. - New York Mountain Road dips down into Watson Wash at around 4800 feet elevation
The pale green of the sagebrush down in the wash takes on an almost teal-blue cast in the late-day sunlight. - When I reach the old corral at Howe Spring, I realize that it's completely burned
I was wondering why it looked rather thin from the rocks up above. A dry cistern sits patiently nearby. - I retrieve the bike and start riding back down Howe Spring Road
From here at about 5600 feet elevation, it will be a very gradual 800-foot downhill over about six miles to the bottom of the road in Watson Wash at about 4800 feet. - Riding away from Howe Spring, I find myself thinking that, yes, it would be worth camping here one day
Beyond the pleasure of touring and sightseeing, I came here today to check out water availability and the suitability of the area as a possible home base for a hike on a future Mojave National Preserve trip. - This looks like some kind of scrub oak growing here at Howe Spring, Mojave National Preserve
Oak trees don't usually grow in the Mojave Desert except at higher elevations like here in the Mid Hills. - Looking east from Howe Spring across Fourth of July Canyon to the New York Mountains
A few houses are visible off to the right, down in Fourth of July Canyon. Close to here are the remains of an old corral that I'll walk past in a few minutes. - A firecracker penstemon blooms for the hummingbirds, in the rocks at Howe Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I never get tired of seeing these penstemons. I planted a few of these perennials in my garden in San José, but they only grew and flowered for one season. - Howe Spring has no running water right now, but the well here (which is perhaps the spring) contains a fair amount
The timbers around the top of the Howe Spring well apparently burned during the 2005 "Hackberry Complex" brush fires. The water looks a bit murky, but with a bit of effort, I could probably get down to it and filter some if needed. - The Howe Spring water tank is empty
From the appearance of the broken pipes scattered in the wash below, the Howe Spring water tank probably hasn't been operational in years. - The Howe Spring area looks a bit like the Eagle Rocks area, but the pinnacles aren't as big or numerous
I keep walking up the wash, following the green and watching for snakes. - Howe Spring wash is dry, but I discover some piping that leads up to a water tank
Maybe there's water up there... - I walk up the dry wash toward Howe Spring, Mojave National Preserve
What will I find? It's looking rather dry around here so far. A covey of quail scatters when they detect my presence. - Dense greenery grows around the wash at Howe Spring, Mojave National Preserve
There might not be any water here today, but the greenery says that there has been plenty of water here occasionnally during the past few months. - The road to Howe Spring has deteriorated enough that I know I'm near the end
Four-wheel-drive vehicles obviously drive over these low rocks in the road ahead, but I get off the bike and walk. It's easier. In fact, I'll park the bike a bit beyond here and start walking. - The main New York Mountains Road continues to the right
I follow the lesser left fork here to get to Howe Spring, which is at the base of the Mid Hills straight ahead. - The road to Howe Spring, Mojave National Preserve, gets narrower
The sand on the road is usually not very deep, so I just ride through it. - West New York Mountains Road, heading toward the east end of Pinto Mountain
I pass a few solar panels that must belong to someone or something. - Mailboxes along west New York Mountains Road, Mojave National Preserve
A few people do live out here; it's not just a national park. - So far, west New York Mountains Road is well packed, but with a layer of sand or gravel on the surface
A mountain bike is pretty much required here due to the sometimes-slippery road. - From Rock Springs, I walk back down to my bike parked in Watson Wash
Rock Springs is one dirty water hole. Perhaps it's not so bad earlier in the year when there's more surface water to disperse the animal droppings. - Back on the bike, I return to Cedar Canyon Road and turn right to head north on New York Mountains Road toward Howe Spring
There are actually two New York Mountains Roads: one on the west side of Watson Wash and one on the east side. I've ridden the one on the east side, but not the one on the west that I'm riding today. - I ride down into Watson Wash on the short segment of the old Mojave Road near the Bert Smith Rock House
This little piece of the old Mojave Road is well-worn and used often by four-wheelers who travel the historic cross-Mojave route. - I park the bicycle where the spur road ends near Rock Springs and go for a walk
I'm at the lowest elevation of today's travels, about 4800 feet. - I approach Rock Springs, Mojave National Preserve
A trickle of water emanates from Rock Springs and dries up. Hmmm, is there any real water here? - There doesn't seem to be much here at Rock Springs right now but mud, flies, and a lot of animal excrement
A lot of the mud here at Rock Springs seems to be liquefied animal excrement; I'm glad I didn't arrive here in need of water. Under such conditions, it's no wonder there are so many flies here. - It turns out that a very small pool of water does exist here at Rock Springs after all
My MSR water filter could take care of this if I had to filter water here, but I'm glad I don't need to. I have filtered worse water than this, such as at Mid Hill's Cottonwood Spring last year, which had even less water than this. - I turn at the short road leading to the historic rock house above Rock Spring, Mojave National Preserve
When I visited this location in 2006, the area was closed and work was being done to the old rock house. It's open now, so I'm anxious to see what there is to see. - Mojave National Preserve's Bert Smith Rock House has been meticulously restored
The rock house was built by a World War I gas victim named Bert Smith, who homesteaded here in 1929 and didn't expect to live long. However, he lived in the house until 1954. - The Bert Smith Rock House sports deeply recessed windows and an unusual lack of a roof line
I spend some time peering through the heavily screened windows and see that the interior has been restored as nicely as the exterior, complete with a few furnishings. The rock fireplace looks as interesting inside as it does from the outside. - Behind the Bert Smith Rock House is a recently built trail down to Rock Springs, Mojave National Preserve
I check my maps, and Rock Springs sits a 1/4 mile down the hill, so I decide to ride down via the road into Watson Wash instead of hiking down to Rock Springs on the trail. - I ride about three miles down Cedar Canyon Road toward Watson Wash
Despite the washboard surface, Cedar Canyon Road is the main east-west artery in this central part of Mojave National Preserve. A few motor vehicles pass me along here. - Here's the road that hugs the fence and connects this segment of the old Mojave Road with Cedar Canyon Road
Cedar Canyon Road intersects in the low area ahead. This road continues onward to who-knows-where; it doesn't appear on my maps. This is one instance where I wish I had loaded aerial photos of the area into my Delorme GPS. - I see Cedar Canyon Road just down the hill
The Black Canyon-Cedar Canyon cutoff road is only about 3/4 mile long. I'm enjoying it enough that I wish it were longer. - I arrive at the junction of Cedar Canyon Road too soon
I see another track heading up on the other side of Cedar Canyon Road, and maybe a campsite. I think I'll ride up there and check it out. - This appears to be an old alignment of the Mojave Road, running parallel to Cedar Canyon Road
This road, still occasionally used, isn't marked on any of my maps. I'll ride up and see how far it goes. - And there is a nice secluded campsite up here, again with a juniper tree
This would be a great place to camp, with the view of Pinto Mountain in the background. But there's no water source nearby. - I continue along this stretch of the old Mojave Road, wondering how much further it goes
Hopefully the road won't prove to be a dead-end that will force me to backtrack. - This old segment of the Mojave Road abruptly ends when it reaches a fence and turns 90 degrees to the right
It apparently leads back to Cedar Canyon Road. Perhaps the reason that this stretch of road ceased being part of the Mojave Road at some point in history is due to the private property on the other side of the fence. - Just off Black Canyon Road on the shortcut road lies a campsite with a juniper tree
The woman that I met driving an RV on the way up to Mid Hills campground a few days ago asked me if I knew the whereabouts of a particular campsite in this area. I didn't, but this must be the one she was referring to. This location is noisy with bird activity, especially quail. - Beyond the campsite, the Black Canyon-Cedar Canyon shortcut road deteriorates
It's a fun mountain-bike ride, at least in the slight downhill direction that I'm travelling, but a motor vehicle would require a four-wheel drive and high clearance. - I ride out of Mid Hills Campground and down Wild Horse Canyon Road into Round Valley
On the way out, I stop at the entrance kiosk to adjust my seat. These first few miles are fun today, but they can be quite a chore in the uphill direction with a fully loaded 10-ton bike. - Windmill near the junction of upper Wild Horse Canyon Road and Black Canyon Road, Mojave National Preserve
There is a lot of private property in this area and it looks like this windmill might still be in use. - I ride almost two miles north on Black Canyon Road before turning right on a shortcut road that I've not ridden before
The shortcut to Cedar Canyon Road will remove about a mile of riding and 100 feet or so of descent and elevation gain. Unknown roads like this one are best taken in the downhill direction the first time in case they turn out to be impassable. - Morning at Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, before starting today's ride to Howe Spring
I woke up to hot sun baking the tent around 8h, but a few dark clouds, a refreshing cool breeze, and a few stray raindrops have since moved in. It's a pleasant 77 degrees right now. I slept really well last night, unlike the night before. Breakfast is again granola, tamari alomnds, tart dried plums, a couple of slices of dried pineapple, a small pot of tea and an electrolyte-replacer drink. - Wild Horse Mesa hike profile, Mojave National Preserve (Day 5)
Wild Horse Mesa hike profile. - Wild Horse Mesa hike route, Mojave National Preserve (Day 5)
The red line represents my bicycle route up Bluejay Mine Road. - Black Canyon Road climbs up above the wash while passing through the canyon
This keeps the road from getting too water-damaged, but the road surface is heavily washboarded nonetheless. My bones rattle. - Black Canyon Road flattens out as it crosses Round Valley, Mojave National Preserve
I'll turn left at the boulder pile ahead and ride up the final two miles of upper Wild Horse Canyon Road back to Mid Hills campground. - Another soothing sunset from Mid Hills campground site 22, looking toward the Clark Mountain Range
Mid Hills campground is empty again tonight, hurray! Except for an occasional train down below along Kelso-Cima Road, the pleasant 76-degree air is mysteriously quiet: no wind, no moths and no flies. Supper tonight is Mountain House Chicken and Rice, heavy and flavourful in its delivery of 800 calories. No dessert needed! A crescent moon pops out for a while, a harbinger of anticipated moonlit nights later on this trip. - On the way up Black Canyon Road, I pass the Gold Valley Ranch
This is one of the old ranches that has been here for many generations, long before Mojave National Preserve came into existence. - I ride over a cattle guard on Black Canyon Road
Some residual old pavement exists here; perhaps all of Black Canyon Road was once paved, though you'd never know it today. - Black Canyon Road is often straight, but it meanders when passing through Black Canyon
The typical Mojave south wind here pushes me from behind, making the climb back up to Mid Hills campground fairly easy. - A cow stands in the middle of Black Canyon Road, not sure what to make of me
You ain't from around here son, are ya? - The cow leaves the road to join his family and they all rush off into the sagebrush
They're apparently acting on a group decision that I'm a potential threat. - The washboard surface of the south end of Wild Horse Canyon Road makes for a rough ride
The scenery in this area is gorgeous and ever-changing. Get out of your car and walk up one of these steep hills to truly appreciate it (make sure you bring a lot of water and keep drinking it). - I take a break at the Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre, which is closed right now
The main reason for my stop here is the water tap, which has water much colder than that which I'm carrying. It's only in the high 70s here today, but the cold water tastes great. - I get back on Black Canyon Road and start the 10-mile ride up the gentle hill back to Mid Hills campground
There's a campground here at Hole-in-the-Wall, but it's often full of RVs, so I rarely stay here. The pavement on Black Canyon Road ends just after the campground, and I'm happy for that. - North of Hole-in-the-Wall campground, Black Canyon Road is a gentle uphill that is quite washboarded
This part of Black Canyon Road is not friendly to RVs, but it's fine on a mountain bike. A few pickup trucks, probably resident ranchers, pass me along here. - Cows grazing near Wild Horse Canyon Road, Mojave National Preserve
Much of Mojave National Preserve has historically been used as cattle-grazing land and some of it will therefore continue to be used as such until grazing licenses are bought out by the Preserve. - I'm back on Wild Horse Canyon Road in the scenic area
I'm heading south now past the Wild Horse Mesa formation, and will soon be heading north on Black Canyon Road back to Mid Hills campground. I've followed this scenic route, one of the best, several times during past Mojave National Preserve trips. - Bluejay Mine Road, Mojave National Preserve
A short but excellent mountain-bike ride in Mojave National Preserve. - Bluejay Mine Road snakes around below Wild Horse Mesa
From here, Wild Horse Mesa looks rather inaccessible, but it isn't, with a bit of effort which is well worth the sweat incurred. - Manzanita regrowth in the burned area below Wild Horse Mesa, Mojave National Preserve
I'm always amazed when I find manzanitas in the Mojave Desert because it's a plant usually associated with the California coast ranges. - Paper-bag bush and verbenas are blooming in the heavily burned area near Bluejay Mine, Mojave National Preserve
I'm almost back down in the valley now; after a short walk, I'll be on my bike again and heading back to Mid Hills campground for the night. - I make it back to Bluejay Mine, retrieve the bike, and start riding the 1.5 miles down to Wild Horse Canyon Road
I'll drop 300 feet on the way to Wild Horse Canyon Road, which is just enough downhill grade to make a rough road like this rideable on a mountain bike. - A few of the old junipers below Wild Horse Mesa appear to have escaped the ravages of the 2005 fires
I've made it past the awkward part of the descent from Wild Horse Mesa, which turned out to be not so difficult after all. - Looking back up to Wild Horse Mesa as I continue back down to Bluejay Mine
Many little yellow desert marigold flowers dot this area. - This area directly north of Wild Horse Mesa is steep, but is feasible when hiked across the slope
I remember looking up at this area earlier toady from Bluejay Mine and thinking that it might not be hikable. - I hike down a drainage below Wild Horse Mesa amongst some old unburned junipers
I mostly follow the drainage, but the shrubbery is occasionally thick and requires that I climb up above in order to get past it. - Descending into Bluejay Mine valley below Wild Horse Mesa
I keep following the drainage downward. - I walk over rocks and partway back toward Beecher Canyon before turning 180 degrees to get below Wild Horse Mesa
Hopefully this downhill route will work and I won't get stuck somewhere that's too steep for me to descend. I've given myself plenty of time for this descent just in case it doesn't work. - A bright-red firecracker penstemon is always a welcome sight in this often-beige landscape
Many of the low, dry plants I've been walking through during the past couple of hours are desert mallows which would have had bright-orange blossoms a month ago. I missed this amazing display. - There's my route back down to Bluejay Mine: that row of green junipers below
I wish I had visited this area before the 2005 forest fires so that I could compare it to how it looks today. This area should become much greener during the next few years as the junipers return in full force. - Panorama across Wild Horse Mesa looking south from near the summit
I hate to leave Wild Horse Mesa so soon after arriving. I wasn't expecting to reach an area where I would want to linger and explore after reaching the summit. Several of the low mountain ranges in the distance are federally designated Wilderness area outside Mojave National Preserve which are also worth exploring. - A canyon just west of Wild Horse Mesa looks like a promising route downward
I'll first need to backtrack a bit to the south in order to get an easy route down to that canyon. - Wild Horse Mesa summit lies just ahead
The last little bit is fairly steep, but the sun keeps hiding behind clouds and cool breezes blow, so I don't overheat as I hike quickly to the top. - Wild Horse Mesa, Mojave National Preserve; I enjoy the views from the summit at about 5600 feet
I take an energy-bar-and-water break here and look north down toward Bluejay Mine where my bike is parked. From here, a small ribbon of Wild Horse Canyon Road is visible to the right, as is the Clark Mountain range in the distance.