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- I arrive at the Mid Hills campground entrance kiosk; I'm happy to be back for yet another visit
It's Saturday, the "busy" time in this park, so I'm not surprised that my favourite campsites at the north end of the road 1/2 mile ahead are taken. I find one on the east side of the road, private and nicely sheltered from the winds that have picked up this evening. I end up chatting with a guy walking up the road who happens to be "the other bicyclist," the one who made those mysterious tire tracks I saw on the shortcut road off Cedar Canyon Road a couple of hours ago. he rode over to the Bert Smith rock house and back from the campground here. I get my tent set up just as it gets dark, make my add-boiling-water-to-bag meal and settle in for a chilly evening up here at 5600 feet elevation. It's rather windy all evening, but I'm tired from today's long ride and fall asleep easily around 23h30. - It was chilly again last night, and windy, but the sun is warm on my first morning at Mid Hills campground
I'm not a huge fan of developed campgrounds, but I often camp here because I like it so much. This is my first time at site #9. Old-growth juniper-pine forest on one side of my tent, a landscape that burned during the 2005 brush fires on the other. - On the other side of my tent at Mid Hills campground site 9 is a wide-open space that burned in the 2005 brush fires
I set up my tent last night so as to get some morning shade from an adjacent juniper tree. I take the morning slow and easy. - Some of the juniper trees, like this one, at Mid Hills campground are quite old
However, people keep cutting off branches of these trees for their campfires! The forest fire of 2005 consumed a lot of the old trees around here as well. - Here and there, an orange mariposa lily pops up among the banana yuccas, junipers, and pinon pines at Mid Hills campground
I've always liked how yuccas (which look like desert) mix with the pines and junipers here (which look like a forest). I have my usual camp breakfast of granola, nuts, dried fruit, coffee and vitamin C drink. - I walk over toward the campground's overlook and stop at the campsite where "the other bicyclist" said he was camping
He has already left, so I walk up the hill to the right to take in the views. - From the Mid Hills campground overlook are open views across to Cima Dome
It's really windy up here, so I'm glad I'm not camping on this side of the campground. I can see Clark Mountain in the distance off to the right, and Cima Road climbing the hill in front of me. - I remember seeing patches of these small, daisy-like flowers when I was here last year
I think these are fleabane (Erigeron concinnus). - It's time to prepare the bicycle for a ride down to Hole-in-the-Wall campground, where I can recharge my cell phone
I don't need to carry a lot of water, since I can fill up there, but I do need to bring items like warm clothing for later, snacks, a spare tube in case of a flat tire, and epipens in case of yellowjacket sting. - Just before noon, I leave Mid Hills campground and ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road without the weight of my camping baggage
Mid Hills campground is about 10 miles away, downhill, a really nice mountain-bike ride. - On the way down Wild Horse Canyon Road, I pass the little road that leads to the Eagle Rocks area
I spent a couple of hours hiking Eagle Rocks last year; highly recommended. I wont be stopping there today however. - After a couple of miles, I reach the smaller "Gold Valley Road" on my left and leave Wild Horse Canyon Road
I rode part of today's route last year, and my photo from this location on Wild Horse Canyon Road looks almost the same! - The first part of Gold Valley Road passes through a meadow thick with mature sagebrush
Amazingly, this relatively small tract of land survived the brush fires of 2005, which burned everything around it. - I pass a herd of cows on Gold Valley Road, with Table Mountain in the background
Most of the greenery in the burned landscape here is Antelope brush (Purshia tridentata), which is sprouting from its roots after the 2005 brush fires here. - The bovines along Gold Valley Road look at me for a moment
... then they decide to trot away - The upper part of Gold Valley Road rolls up and down over gently folding terrain
Perfect for mountain biking! - I stop on a low bluff to try my cell phone and it works, so I take a short break and send a few text messages
Much of this area has no cell signal, but I remember that I had a signal around here during last year's trip. - This old juniper tree was mostly burned, like everything surrounding it, during the 2005 brush fires, but its crown lives on!
Orange desert-mallow flowers are everywhere in the Gold Valley hills right now. Twin Buttes sit in the background on the far side of Gold valley. - Gold Valley Road rises up a gentle hill and arrives at a higher area with nice views of the surroundings
I'm at just under 5450 feet elevation here, and it will be downhill from here to the Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre. - Desert mallows bloom in the middle of Gold Valley Road near its summit
Presumably, not many folks drive through here. Good views from here ahead to Wild Horse Mesa, which I visited a couple of years ago. - Also at the summit of Gold Valley Road is a scattering of boulders
Also here is a sign for the hiking trail that passes by, connecting Mid Hills campground to Hole-in-the-Wall campground. - Finally, Gold Valley Road dips down into Gold Valley itself
This downhill is a mountain-biker's dream (in the downhill direction). Not quite single-track, but that's unimportant. There are plenty of small obstacles to keep you awake, and great mountain views. - On the way down the hill, I stop at the windmill and water tank near Gold Valley Spring
This windmill is still in operation, since cattle still graze in this area. - The Gold Valley water tank is overflowing
The ladder here invites me to climb up and take a look inside. - A tank of deep blue fresh water in the desert?
After spending time in the dry desert, this looks like an ocean in a can. - After my stop at the Gold Valley water tank, I still have a bit more downhill mountain-biking ahead
The Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre, my first destination, is a few miles further, down in that valley, behind the hill on my right. - The lower part of Gold Valley Road has more sand; I sometimes lose traction and need to walk the bike occasionally
Several clumps of flowering sages (Salvia dorri) bloom along here, along with tiny chia sages, those tiny stems poking up in the middle of the road. - After crossing the valley, Gold Valley Road comes to an end and I join the larger Black Canyon Road
There's even a bit of pavement here, briefly, on Black Canyon Road, before I turn in on the short dirt road to the Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre. - At the Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre, I recharge my cell phone and chat with Preserve staff and a couple of visitors
Chats with staff and visitors are enjoyable and insightful. I buy a bag of beef jerky and vegetable chips, and eat it all while waiting for my phone to recharge. By the time I leave, it's almost 15h00, a bit late in the day for starting a hike. - Before leaving Hole-in-the-Wall, I refill my water bottles
There are always a lot of bees around the water spigot at Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre! - I ride a few hundred feet on pavement on Black Canyon Road before turning off toward Saddle Horse Canyon
I was considering hiking the popular nearby Rings Trail, which I still haven't done, but want to explore Saddle Horse Canyon a bit too. Today I see pavement, though only briefly, for the first time in several days. - I start riding the lower part of Wild Horse Canyon Road and will park just before those hills almost two miles ahead
Saddle Horse Canyon is off to the left in those hills. I've been up on the flat-topped Wild Horse Mesa ahead, but I hiked up to it from the other side. - I pull over at a turn-out on Wild Horse Canyon Road, stash the bicycle in the bushes and begin the hike
Saddle Horse Canyon is that opening in the hills at the left. - A few desert sages (Salvia dorrii) are still blooming here on the approach to Saddle Horse Canyon
It's already late in the day, so I won't have time for a long hike, but a short hike should give me a good impression of the area. - On the approach to Saddle Horse Canyon, I pass another flowering plant that I like: Paper-bag bush (Salazaria mexicana)
This plant seems to like these areas between the high and low desert elevations. - I walk over to some rocky outcrops along the way and see something that I thought I might see in an area like this
Lots of lime-yellow lichen on these rocks, amongst other things. - Dramatic rock erosion at the entrance to Saddle Horse Canyon
It must have taken many fast-moving high-water floods to wear down the rock wall into this shape! - A few small holes in the rocks near the mouth of Saddle Horse Canyon
Volcanic? - At the mouth of Saddle Horse Canyon is a guzzler (a pad of concrete), dry right now due to lack of rain
It's as ugly as a shopping-mall parking lot on a small scale, but it collects water during rain and makes it available for wildlife after the rain is gone. Very useful. Some feel that the ugliness is worth it in a wilderness landscape, while others don't. - I pass a budding milkweed in Saddle Horse Canyon
... and a few orange Desert-mallow flowers. - Quite a few Cliff roses (Purshia) grow in Saddle Horse Canyon
- I continue hiking around plants and rocks on my way up Saddle Horse Canyon
It's an easy hike, with perfect weather. - Paper-flower bush (Psilostrophe cooperi) in Saddle Horse Canyon
This looks like an obsessively manicured garden plant, an interesting contrast to the rugged desert surroundings. - Buckwheat flowers pop out between dark rocks that absorb the hot sun in Saddle Horse Canyon
These plants seem to love getting fried in the sun! Rocks like these often become hot to the touch during the hotter season. - The 2005 brush fires passed through Saddle Horse Canyon, but a few juniper trees survived
I'll keep hiking up around the next bend ahead. - Well, this is about as far up Saddle Horse Canyon as I'll go; I want to be riding up Wild Horse Canyon Road around sunset
I'd like to continue all the way up to the top of Saddle Horse Canyon, only a mile further, where it reaches Wild Horse Mesa. That would also be an interesting place to be at sunset. - I turn around and start my way back down Saddle Horse Canyon, wondering if I shouldn't be turning around so soon
I made the mistake of not wearing long pants on this hike, the consequence being that I'm constantly stopping to pull out grass pieces from my socks that poke into my ankles like little thorns. - This bushy desert oak shrub in Saddle Horse Canyon seems to have grown back despite being burned in the 2005 brush fires
Charred branches stick out through the fresh foliage. - I take a closer look at that regenerated oak in Saddle Horse Canyon
I'm guessing this is a turbinella oak. - Purple four o'clock flowers poke through a Rhus trilobata bush laden with unripe berries in Saddle Horse Canyon
Soon, these berries will be red. - I'm enjoying these parts of Saddle Horse Canyon where I can walk in the dry drainage channel
There are no grasses in the dry drainage to get stuck in my socks! - Here's another part of Saddle Horse Canyon that allows me to avoid getting more grass stuck in my socks
I feel like I've spent as much time stopped, picking grass out of my socks, as I have hiking! - I'm back in an open, grassy area as I hike out of Saddle Horse Canyon
That means I'll have more grass in my socks in a few minutes, poking into my ankles, ugh. - A few small barrel cacti are on the side of Saddle Horse Canyon, some living, some burned
The cacti that were charred in the 2005 brush fires are interesting to look at. I presume they didn't actually ignite due to their high moisture content. - This charred barrel cactus is slowly resprouting after being burned in the 2005 brush fires
The living part of this cactus represents six years of growth since the fire. - Near the mouth of Saddle Horse Canyon is a small stand of Desert trumpet buckwheats
(Eriogonum inflatum.) - Thamnosma montana (Turpentine-broom) in Saddle Horse Canyon
A twiggy, leafless plant that looks like a psychedelic hairdo... - On the way back out of Saddle Horse Canyon, I decide to walk along the rock walls
Texture, and more interesting stuff... - Bubbles in the rocks
... erosion and more. The rocks break apart, and then fall. - I've passed through the Hole-in-the-Wall area here so many times without stopping to take it in on foot
I'll have to try the popular Rings Trail over by the campground one of these days... I almost went there today instead of hiking over here. - A bush of some kind manages to grow up on top of these rocks at the mouth of Saddle Horse Canyon
I walk around a stand of thorny Catclaw acacia here to get closer to the rocks. - More big bubbles and fractures in the rocks
If you stare at the left outcrop long enough, you might start imagining a lizard head. Funny how rocks can be so evocative... - One of several rock shelters in the Hole-in-the-wall area
The vegetation on the hill above appears to have burned heavily in the 2005 brush fires. - Camouflaged in the rocks is a small concrete dam to retain water running down from the hills
I take a peek, and it's dry right now. - From another rock shelter in the area, I peer out into the sunshine
I look around for snakes, but don't see any. - The rocks at the mouth of Saddle Horse Canyon are more interesting than further up the canyon
However, I didn't hike all the way up the canyon to Wild Horse Mesa, so I may have missed the best. - It's time to walk back to the 10-ton bike, parked half a mile away over by Wild Horse Canyon Road, just over there
Light cloud cover this afternoon is creating a pale, diffused golden light in the pre-sunset hours. - I pass a tangle of white and purple flowers on the way back to the bike near Wild Horse Canyon Road
The purple is Desert sage (Salvia dorrii) and the white is Desert wishbone bush (Mirabilis bigelovii). - I'm back at the bike, which is hiding in the bushes just off Wild Horse Canyon Road, ready to ride home to Mid Hills campground
I always set a GPS waypoint when I leave the bike concealed in bushes so I can find it when I get back! Yes, I have had difficulties finding my bike in previous situations like this... - Before I start the ride up Wild Horse Canyon Road, I pick out some of the annoying stickers in my socks and shoes
The stickers are small, but they keep stabbing my feet. It was a mistake to hike here in my short pants; I should have kept my long legs on, to protect my shoes, despite the warmer temperature in this area today. - I start riding up Wild Horse Canyon Road, the lower part of which is washboarded and sometimes sandy
Since there's no traffic here except me (so far), I ride on whatever part of the road that looks like it provides the best riding surface. - I look behind me as I climb up the lower part of Wild Horse Canyon Road
I have to walk the bike up this stretch because there's too much sand for me to get traction (see my tire tracks?) However, not too far ahead, I'll be back on well-packed sand and gravel. - Wild Horse Canyon Road pops out of the canyon and onto higher ground, where I catch the beginning of sunset
Here, I'm looking east at an area sometimes known as Lobo Point. I'm at about 4500 feet elevation here, about 1000 feet below home (Mid Hills campground). - I enjoy the impending sunset as I slowly ride up Wild Horse Canyon Road
I've got 7.5 more bicycle miles ahead of me. - The Wild Horse Mesa area picks up a warm glow as I ride past
I'm looking forward to tomorrow's hike into the northern Providence Mountains, during which I'll pass through that area. - A car passes me along this stretch of Wild Horse Canyon Road, the only one I'll see on the way back to camp
The road does roll a bit, so it's nice to have these brief almost-downhill segments on the way up the hill. - Bovines along Wild Horse Canyon Road
I wonder if these are the same cows that I saw earlier today while riding Gold Valley Road, not far from here. - This bull poses for a portrait along Wild Horse Canyon Road
White Desert thistle flowers (Cirsium neomexicanum) bloom in abundance at this location. - I turn back for another look at the Wild Horse Mesa area, which is still picking up a bit of sunset light
- The sun hides behind Columbia Mountain as I ride up Wild Horse Canyon Road
Hmmm... this looks like a promotional product-placement image... - Wild Horse Canyon Road dips down into the upper part of Macedonia Canyon as I ride back to Mid Hills campground
It's great to have a little downhill on the way uphill! That spot down on the road ahead is a cow, I believe. - After passing Columbia Mountain, I look back at what remains of sunset and ride on to Mid Hills campground
I make it back to Mid Hills campground a bit after dark, at 20h25. It's predictably windy again tonight while I enjoy another add-boiling-water-to-bag meal. The campground is rather empty tonight (Sunday); it's great to be here again. However, the evening silence is broken for a couple of hours. One of the few campsites occupied on this Sunday night is the one across the road from mine. A family camping there is singing campfire songs. I'm really happy to hear these folks enjoying themselves with their kids out here, and with no TVs or cell phones (a lost skill these days). Still, I wish I didn't have to listen to them. Regardless, tomorrow night I'll be back in the wilderness, and probably alone for a few days, perhaps remembering how cool this family across the road is. I get to sleep before midnight and wear my long underwear and sweater to bed again. I didn't expect to be wearing my long undies almost every night when I brought them along on this trip! I should have brought a scarf too, but didn't. - Another beautiful morning at Mid Hills campground; it's nice to have a water supply, so I heat up water to wash myself
I don't always have the luxury of extra water for washing! It was less chilly last night, so I slept well. After a slow breakfast of coffee, granola, nuts and dried fruit, I pack the bicycle and ride to the Providence Mountains foothills for today's hike. - I stop at the water tap near my campsite at Mid Hills campground and fill up; I won't be passing any water holes today
Of course, I'm bringing along the usual items as well: maps, cell phone (which usually can't get reception), hiking hat, energy bars, epipens in case of a yellowjacket sting, bicycle tube and pump... - After leaving Mid Hills campground, I ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road and cross over this cattle guard
I'll be reminded soon that cows still graze in this area and that this cattle guard is not just a remnant from the past. - A pick-up truck passes me on Wild Horse Canyon Road, a major event
The lack of traffic on this road makes it a pleasure to ride. I always enjoy riding this part of Wild Horse Canyon Road with the high peaks of the Providence Mountains poking up in the distance. - As I ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road, a few cows start to cross, but I end up inadvertently chasing them
The cows have decided to stay on the road, and they run away from me, spooked. It's like I'm rounding them up on my bicycle! - After 5 minutes, the cows are still running down Wild Horse Canyon Road, with me chasing them on my bicycle
They ran briefly into the brush, but returned to the road immediately thereafter. It's funny to watch; cows don't run very gracefully! Is the earth here vibrating? - We come around a bend by Macedonia Canyon Road and start heading uphill; the cows aren't running quite so quickly anymore
And I'm not riding so quickly anymore either. Finally, the cows disperse into the brush and I pass by them as I continue riding along Wild Horse Canyon Road. Should this be called Wild Cow Canyon Road instead? - I continue riding down Wild Horse Canyon Road toward the Wild Horse Mesa area, watching for the easy-to-miss Bluejay Mine Road
A few puffy Desert thistles (Cirsium neomexicanum) grow along the road here. If I were camping at Hole-in-the-Wall campground, I would be much closer to today's hike, but I just don't like that campground as much as Mid Hills. - And there it is: Bluejay Mine Road; I leave Wild Horse Canyon Road here
I've been here a couple of times now, and it's a fun ride on a mountain bike: about 1.5 miles to the end of the road, which will be the trailhead for today's hike in the north end of the Providence Mountains - A short stretch of Bluejay Mine Road is in a sandy wash, and I'm glad it doesn't last too long
Four-wheel-drive vehicles can drive this easily enough, but it's just uphill enough that I occasionally lose traction and have to walk the bike a short distance. - Bluejay Mine Road gets a bit better after rising out of the sandy wash
It's slightly uphill, but has good traction here, so it's good mountain-bike riding again, at least for a few feet. - Like so many desert backroads, Bluejay Mine Road deteriorates as it approaches its end
Yes, this is a road! - Bluejay Mine Road ends here, so I stash my bike in the brush, lock it up, and begin today's hike
Before I begin climbing the big hill, I'll make a quick stop at the entrance to the old Bluejay Mine over there. - I take a look into the old entrance to the Bluejay Mine before I start climbing up the hill
Hey, I took this photo last year also, while hiking through this area. I take a peek inside the opening, but it doesn't go in very far. - A yellow-chested bird watches me begin the hike up the steep hill above Bluejay Mine
The branches of the tree may have burned during the 2005 brush fires here, but they still provide a nice perch. - My first stop on the way up the hill is the upper shaft opening to the Bluejay Mine
Some birds live here; they fly away when I approach. Presumably, this opening once communicated with the lower opening that I just visited. - Because the upper opening to the Bluejay Mine is treacherous, it's surrounded by barbed wire
I try to imagine how green this area used to look before the 2005 brush fires that swept through here. - I soon make it high enough up the hill to have a view across the Providence Mountains to the subtle curve of Cima Dome
Sprays of orange Desert mallow flowers contrast nicely with the brown soil and blue sky. - This hill in the Providence Mountains is a steep way to start a hike
My heart is pounding already. - A quick look back down the hill behind me confirms why my heart is pounding
Steep hills are a lot of work, but so rewarding... - I'm at a false summit here, with another 125 feet or so of climbing to reach this Providence Mountains summit
I'm already about 450 feet above the end of Bluejay Mine Road where I left my bike. Fast elevation gain for a bit less than 1/2 mile of distance! - I arrive at my Providence Mountains summit (Hill 1713) and take inventory of the 360-degree views
To the north here, I can see the general area of Wild Horse Canyon Road where I "herded up" the cows by bicycle on the way here. - From Hill 1713, I can see across Gold Valley to Twin Buttes and the Woods Mountains
The hill is steep enough that I can't even see where I left my bicycle below. - I turn on my cell phone up here on Hill 1713 in the Providence Mountains and get a signal, but...
The signal isn't strong enough to allow me to send a text message to confirm to people that I still exist. Bummer, I'll try again later. - From Hill 1713 in the Providence Mountains, I can see Macedonia Canyon Road down below to the northwest
I did a short hike down there in Macedonia Canyon two years ago. A couple of Mariposa lilies bloom here on the summit. - Also up here on Hill 1713 in the Providence Mountains are a few blue delphinium flowers
...and some orange Desert-mallow flowers too, of course. - My route ahead is the Providence Mountains saddle to the right; I pass through an old range fence here
I'm high enough to see part of the Kelso Dunes beyond the mountains. - When I hiked here last year, I dropped down into Beecher Canyon, below at left; but not this time
Today, I have more time, so I'm staying on the saddle here and heading up to the pile of rocks on the hill ahead, after which I'll hike down into Globe Canyon. - On this saddle in the Providence Mountains, I find the remains of a balloon
There's almost nothing left of this pink balloon. Did it bump into one the spiky cholla cacti up here upon landing? - Beecher Canyon, scenic and tempting, but I'll stay up here on the saddle a bit longer so I can hike down into Globe Canyon
My original plan was to camp at Providence Mountains State Recreation Area and hike up Beecher Canyon to here, but that campground is closed for repairs (and hopefully not forever, since it's now on the California State Parks future-closure list). - Hill 1624 in the Providence Mountains boasts a robust rock outcrop stacked in layers
Hamburger marketers would see this and imagine the world's tallest hamburger. - Hiding in the rocks on Providence Mountains Hill 1624 is a crushed "Bud Light" can
Isn't this location a bit high and remote for a "Bud Light" drinker? - Everything has been quiet, and I can see down to the tiny town of Kelso, when a low-flying helicopter passes overhead
After Mid Hills campground, I haven't seen anyone except for the pick-up truck on Wild Horse Canyon Road. The intrusion of a loud helicopter is weird, like surveillance. Flying low, I'm sure its occupants see me hiking, sole human here today. - As I descend into Globe Canyon, I can see over to the high points of the Providence Mountains
I haven't hiked up there yet; I think most of it is a bit steep for my comfort level. - A few bright-pink dudleya stems brighten up the landscape as I follow the ridge down into Globe Canyon
I'm going to descend into the gulley on the right. - I reach the bottom of one of the forks of Globe Canyon and look up at an old tailings pile
Many old mine sites dot this area and one could easily spend a day exploring them, instead of just hiking through the area as I'm doing. - As I arrive in Globe Canyon, I notice a few black-striped birds flitting about in a catclaw bush
They camouflage quite well amongst the grey branches. - I pass a small mine opening in Globe Canyon
That big tailings pile that I could see earlier is not far from here, up the hill. - Nearby in this fork of Globe Canyon is a small can dump
Signs of the past; yours to discover. - A short distance further down Globe Canyon is another old mine hole
Or maybe the hole is just a prospect and doesn't go very deep. - I continue down this fork of Globe Canyon and exit the Wilderness markers
I'm not expecting Wilderness markers here, so it's time for a map-and-GPS check. - It's also time for a chocolate energy bar in Globe Canyon while consulting the GPS
Despite the generally cool weather on this trip, it's quite a bit warmer down here in Globe Canyon, in the mid 80s. - I climb over a small hill to reach the main Globe Canyon Road, and discover a rock cairn on the hill
I saw a cairn earlier up on the hill before descending into Globe Canyon, so presumably I'm not the only person who ever hikes here. I try my cell phone on this hill, and get no reception (as expected). - I'm on Globe Canyon Road now, starting the uphill hike toward Summit Spring, and pass a couple of old trees, still alive
Most of the junipers and pines around here burned in the 2005 brush fires. The few that survived will hopefully provide seeds for new trees. - I pass an old sink while hiking up Globe Canyon Road
So, there may have been a building nearby at one time; I'll keep an eye out for the remains of one. - I pass another tailings pile along Globe Canyon Road
There are so many possible exploration side trips here, such as this, but I'm focused on my hike up to Summit Spring right now, so I continue up Globe Canyon Road without stopping. - Globe Canyon Road becomes rather indistinct after a while
This part of the road is still outside official Wilderness boundaries and can thus be driven, but it doesn't look like many motor vehicles come up here. - I turn a bend on Globe Canyon Road and have a short and steady uphill in front of me
A sole bright-red Indian paintbrush grows in the middle of the road (yes, this is a road). - Under a burnt tree, two plants try to trick me: the yellow flowers don't belong to the the green patch of foliage
The yellow flowers look like a Groundsel poking up through the leaves of a Desert four o'clock that isn't blooming yet. - Approaching Summit Spring, the now-faint Globe Canyon Road levels out
A few more junipers survived the 2005 brush fires in this area. I'm seeing cow manure more frequently, some of it quite fresh. - I'm almost at Summit Spring, but I notice a couple of stray balloons nearby; I take a short detour to look at them close-up
Happy Mother's Day! The folks who celebrated with these balloons probably can't imagine that the balloons ended up here in the Providence Mountains (where is the Providence Mountains anyway?). - Next to Summit Spring are the remains of a concrete foundation and, presumably, a building
There's nothing inside, just a tiny room that might have served as a good natural refrigerator. - I see a moist drainage channel nearby, which I presume comes from Summit Spring
I follow the moist track a short distance up the hill, hoping that Summit Spring will be up there somewhere. - Well, here it is, Summit Spring, Mojave National Preserve, a disgusting concentrate of cow shit and water
Usually, I like to linger at a desert spring and enjoy the specialness of moisture in a dry country. But not here at Summit Spring. The scent of the rotting cow shit is sickening in the hot sun and the flies buzzing around it are annoying. - I'm thirsty, but I wait until I get up the hill away from stinky Summit Spring before guzzling more water
I can still taste the stench of the Summit Spring cow shit below after breathing in its vapors for a few minutes. - I'm on the Providence Mountains ridge again, so I look to the south toward a hiking route as yet unexplored
If I were hiking from Providence Mountains State Recreation Area (my original plan), that would be my route. However, that park is closed this spring. Instead, I'm hiking in the opposite direction. - I'll follow the Providence Mountains ridge line to the left, then head right later to that high point at centre (Hill 1713)
I crossed over that high point (Hill 1713) earlier on my way here. - Numerous rock outcrops dot the Providence Mountains ridge line
Looking north here, with Columbia Mountain as the high point in the background. - I get a good view of Globe Canyon Road from above, which I just hiked on the way to Summit Spring
I would like to have seen what Globe Canyon looked like before the 2005 brush fires. - The little rock outcrops on the Providence Mountains ridge keep attracting my attention
Another great view down into Globe Canyon... - I take a look behind me at one of the spikes on the Providence Mountains ridge line that I just hiked over
A few burned trees here provide some scale. Awesome hike! - Over at the far right below Wild Horse Mesa is a thin line of trees where I hiked last year to get out of Beecher Canyon
It looks dry from here, but there's even a small spring over there, not marked on my maps. I called it Beecher Canyon Spring. - This outcrop on the Providence Mountains ridge line harbours a little cave
It's empty! - Another little cave on the Providence Mountains ridge line...
This one is also empty. - As I hike over another hump on the Providence Mountains ridge line, I arrive at a herd of resting cows
I've interrupted their rest, and they quickly get up and leave. - The cows saunter along the Providence Mountains hillside, toward where?
Maybe they'll climb down the other side of the hill toward Beecher Canyon Spring. I saw cows while hiking down in that area of Beecher Canyon last year. - These two juniper trees on the Providence Mountains ridge survived the 2005 brush fires, just barely
Both trees were apparently burned a bit, but not enough to kill them. Seeds for future trees will come from these survivors. - A few Desert trumpets (Eriogonum inflatum) grow on this part of the Providence Mountains ridge overlooking Beecher Canyon
...and flat-topped Wild Horse Mesa. - I look ahead and scope out my route along this part of the Providence Mountains ridge
I'll head upward along the spine to my left to attain the ridge, then hike to the right (east) along the ridge, overlapping my route into this area a while ago. - A turkey vulture, one of my favorite birds, flies overhead, reminding me that I'm alive
I'm always happy to see these scavengers. - As I climb a bit higher above Beecher Canyon, I pass through a field of Desert marigolds
It was around this spot during last year's hike out here that I started to head down into Beecher Canyon. - As I rise, I enjoy the views across Macedonia Canyon over to Cima Dome in the distance
This stand of trees didn't survive the 2005 brush fires... - Ooops! A yucca stabs me as I walk past it, the result of sloppy hiking!
Maybe this means I'm starting to get tired? It's a fairly strenuous hike and I have taken it fairly quickly. - Atop the steep hill I'm climbing is a piece of old range fence that I passed earlier today
Here's the view from earlier today of this Providence Mountains fence. - Zooming in really hard, I can see some of the rock turrets at Eagle Rocks, not far from tonight's home at Mid Hills campground
Wild Horse Canyon Road, my bicycle route home tonight, is visible at the right. - No, that's not a thin woman standing there taking in the views from the Providence Mountains...
... just another burnt tree-stump remnant from the 2005 brush fires. - I stumble across another rock cairn on my way back down to the Bluejay Mine area
Someone besides me obviously hikes here once in a while... My bike is down at the bottom of the hill ahead. - On the descent to Bluejay Mine, I run into a patch of Groundsel flowers
I haven't seen many of these today. - Another flowering plant I notice on the way down to Bluejay Mine is Rock pea (Lotus rigidus)
I also saw a few of these blooming in Saddle Horse Canyon yesterday. - I arrive back at my bike by the old Winkler's Cabin site by Bluejay Mine and find that it has a flat tire
Strange... I hate changing a flat tire, but this is one of the nicest and more relaxing places to do it. - My flat tire fixed, I start riding down Bluejay Mine Road on the way back to Mid Hills campground
I'm at just under 5000 feet elevation here. I'll drop down 300 feet or so during the next mile before beginning the largely uphill ride back to Mid Hills campground. - Bluejay Mine Road improves as it rolls downward, a most excellent mountain-biking road
It's only about 1.5 miles long, but with no traffic, it's perfect. - I ride up Wild Horse Canyon Road toward Columbia Mountain, just like last night, as the sun starts to dip behind the hills
Wild Horse Canyon Road is not a road I get tired of riding! I have a strong tailwind that is making the uphill easier than usual. I'm barely aware that I'm riding uphill. - A rabbit darts across Wild Horse Canyon Road and then stands still near the brush
He thinks I can't see him! I've seen many rabbits on this trip, but almost never manage to photograph them. - As I climb Wild Horse Canyon Road, I turn back for a look at the Providence Mountains peaks before they disappear
This is the area where I chased those cows earlier today! These peaks aren't that far away: it looks like haze is blowing in this evening. - I know I'm getting close to home when I ride past the right-turn sign on Wild Horse Canyon Road
The Eagle Rocks turrets near Mid Hills campground are getting closer. - A sunset ride up Wild Horse Canyon Road isn't complete without a glance over to Twin Buttes and Table Mountain
I think I've taken several versions of this photo during Mojave National Preserve previous trips! - I'm back at the Mid Hills campground entry kiosk at sunset, perfect timing!
It's actually a bit darker outside that it appears, but my cheap Canon camera overcompensates for lack of daylight. - The sun goes down at nearly-empty Mid Hills campground and I meet my new neighbors, Heather and Sarah
Supper is high-calorie Mountain House Rice and Chicken, a comforting end to a strenuous day. I meet Sarah and Heather while over at the water tap and we chat for a while; great people. I look forward to hanging out with them tomorrow on "my day off." It's cold and windy tonight, possibly the coldest night so far on this trip, so I wear all my clothes in my sleeping bag: sweater, outer shell long underwear, plus two pairs of socks. Brrr! But I'm quite tired from today's excursion and fall asleep easily around midnight. - The morning sun at Mid Hills campground is warm, but it was really chilly overnight, one of the coldest nights of this trip
I sleep in until 8h30, have breakfast, including Mountain House Beef Stew (yum) and spend part of the day hanging out with Sarah and Heather at the campsite next door. It's nice to have a day off! Sarah has an "extra" microbrew beer for me during the afternoon, thanks! - We drive in Sarah's minivan over to the Teutonia Peak trailhead from Mid Hills campground for our end-of-day hike
- As we start up the Teutonia Peak Trail, we're greeted by some Indian paintbrush
We're at about 5000 feet elevation here, so the wildflowers haven't all dried up yet from the summer heat that's on its way. It's a perfect day here in the low 80s F, with a cool breeze. - Some of the open areas between joshua trees are lightly carpeted with tiny white and yellow flowers
I think the white daisy-like flowers are Tidy tips (Layia glandulosa), while the yellow ones might be gilias. - Heather stops to check out a joshua tree on Teutonia Peak Trail
A lot of the joshua trees in this area are quite well-developed. They grow very slowly, so these big trees are old. - A soft, furry cactus (one of many) invites passers-by along the Teutonia Peak Trail
You want to reach out and touch it, but you don't want to. - I spot another "pineapple cactus" near Teutonia Peak Trail
I snapped a photo of one of these while hiking in the Castle Peaks area last week. - Here's a colorful Hopsage (Grayia spinosa) along Teutonia Peak Trail
They're not rare by any means, but I haven't noticed many so far on this trip. - A blue delphinium adds a spike of colour in the joshua-tree forest
The adjacent cactus just adds spikes. - Sarah and Heather check out a really huge "pancake cactus"
Most of the ones I see aren't as big as this one. - The Mojave Desert is most known for its spiny and tough plants, but graceful bunch grasses are also to be found
Teutonia Peak, the climax of our hike, is that rocky pile up ahead. - The area here below Teutonia Peak is also known for its big boulder outcrops
There are several campsites on the opposite of Cima Road from here for those wishing to camp out in this area. - I've been seeing desert sages along this trail (Salvia dorrii) and this is one of the better ones
They're just starting to wind down their flowering season, so some of them have lost some of their colour. They still smell great, of course. - An elderly juniper tree picks up the late afternoon sun along Teutonia Peak Trail
Like joshua trees, these grow slowly, so this one must be quite old. - Heather pauses in the middle of the Teutonia Peak Trail to contemplate the awesomeness of the area
The trail is quite narrow, but mostly an easy hike. - We start seeing the occasional Desert four o'clock bush with its intense magenta flowers
We're not too late for these flowers... - As the trail rises toward Teutonia Peak, we pass through a patch of junipers
On a really hot day, the shade from these trees would be welcome. - A Banana yucca sends out a fresh bouquet on the way up Teutonia Peak Trail
We're high enough now to see down into the valley where the minivan is parked, and all the way beyond to the Ivanpah and Clark Mountain ranges. - Sarah moseys around in the rock outcrops as we get close to the top of Teutonia Peak Trail
Some end-of-day haze is blowing in, dulling the view of the distant Kingston Range. - Heather climbs up the top of the Teutonia Peak Trail past another patch of "pancake cactus"
We're almost there! - Near the top of Teutonia Peak Trail, we get a good view across to nearby Kessler Peak (at left)
Cima Road is visible cutting across the valley. In the distance at the right is the New York Mountain range, and behind that the Castle Peaks area where I camped three nights last week. - On Teutonia Peak, we linger and enjoy; Heather looks across the valley to the Mid Hills, where we're camping
We're almost at 5700 feet elevation here. Where we're camped over on top of those hills is at about 5600 feet. - Heather walks between some of the boulders strewn about on Teutonia Peak
In theory, being on top of Teutonia Peak would require that we climb up the huge rocks with steep sides that sit on the summit, but that's not for us. - Sarah takes a break on Teutonia Peak, overlooking the subtle curve of Cima Dome
I have a cell-phone signal here, so I send a few text messages and make a quick phone call. I haven't had any phone service for the past couple of days, so I've been wanting to let people know that I haven't vanished. - We're all taking photos of each other; Sarah sits on one of the Teutonia Peak ridges
Clark Mountain is behind Sarah in the distance. I've hiked the lower parts of that area, but not all the way to the top. - Sarah discovers a rock shelter at Teutonia Peak and tries it out
It works! - Heather stands on a Teutonia Peak "balcony" overlooking the Cima Dome curve
Cima Dome is an interesting sight because its curve is so subtle, yet constant. I hiked over there a few years ago on its summit, and you feel more like you're on a plain than a dome. - From Teutonia Peak are views over to the "summit" of Cima Dome
It's about 1.5 miles from here to there, but it looks much closer. - As we start our way back down from Teutonia Peak, Heather takes the lead
It looks like we could do a walk across the valley to Clark Mountain, but that's over a dozen miles away.