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- Petroglyphs and chipped rock
- A part on my rear rack breaks as I stop to look for a campsite along Woods Wash Road
- I ride along Woods Wash Road around sunset toward an as-yet-unknown campsite
- I take a break at Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre to recharge my phone
- I try to keep up with a cow and a wild burro that I spot along Wild Horse Canyon Road
- I pause along Wild Horse Canyon Road to watch a cow trudge along in an adjacent wash
- Laundry out to dry at Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
- Ortlieb waterproof bicycle saddlebags make a great washing machine or ice bucket!
- I rinse my hair under a tap at Mid Hills Campground as part of breaking camp today
As usual when I'm here, I've been sucked into the Mid Hills campground vortex and don't want to leave. I keep looking for excuses to stay here another night, but I do need to recharge my cell phone again, now that I'm taking photos with it more often. - I make it back to the Barnett Mine area at sunset, pick up the bicycle, and ride the 10 miles back to camp in dusk and dark
Relieved that I finished climbing the rock pile before dark, the ride back to Mid Hills, mostly in the dark, is leisurely. I pass no other vehicles, but I do see a campfire near Holliman Well as my headlight quietly cuts through the dark. Supper is Mountain House Rice with Sweet and Sour Pork; good again. It's cold again tonight, so I wear my sweater, long underwear, double socks and a bandana to keep warm. After the heat of the first few days of the trip, it almost feels good to be cold! - Paperbag bush glowing in the sun (Salazaria mexicana) high on the fan above Watson Wash
- The big rock piles here above Watson Wash are even more impressive up close than they are from a distance
I've often looked over this way when passing through the area, but never ventured over here on foot to explore until today. Good hiking choice! - I keep hiking up the gentle slope, passing through another patch of burned desert above Black Diamond Spring
- On the way up the fan, I look over to Keckiella Rocks, a small plateau of volcanic-looking rock
Just to the left of it is "Little Keckiella Rocks," a smaller, similar formation. - Energy-bar break above Watson Wash!
I have to cross over those hills up there to get back to the bicycle. - After a very short break at stinky Black Diamond Spring, I walk through an area full of white buckwheat flowers
This area did not burn during the 2005 brush fires here; what a difference! I'm starting my way back up the hill, on the other side of a low ridge (don't want to go back the same way I came). - The animal trail ends at Black Diamond Spring, Mojave National Preserve, just as expected
Just a big puddle of water here at this time of year, but nonetheless dramatic in such a dry landscape, even with a lot of cow shit around to stink up the area. Quail and other birds add noise to the sound of the wind and my footsteps. - Follow the animal trail, follow the animal trail!
The trail leaves the burned area and passes through blackbrush and cholla scrub on the way down to Black Diamond Spring. - I bet this animal trail leads to Black Diamond Spring!
I'll follow it and find out. - I like walking through some easy-to-miss chia sages in Upper Black Diamond Spring Valley
These produce a classic musty sage aroma when you brush up against them. - A lone juniper in Upper Black Diamond Spring Valley survived the 2005 brush fires here
- I decide to walk up to the top of the hill and see if it would be easy to walk down the other side
At the top, I can see across to Hackberry Mountain. I check my GPS. Looks good, so I decide to walk down the hill toward Black Diamond Spring. - Time to explore a little: I climb up a hill behind the Barnett Mine and take a look at the panorama
Today's hike wasn't planned, so I'm just walking around and enjoying the surroundings. - I go for a walk past one of the mine shafts at Barnett Mine
I wonder if the shaft was once deeper, and has been since filled in for safety reasons. - I start walking up the trail to the old mine site: I see people over there--amazing
We don't meet, since they're walking in the other direction. I suspect they don't see me. I rarely run into people in the backcountry out here, but this location is an easy walk in from the historic Mojave Road, which is fairly well-traveled. - The dead coyote I passed on Cedar Canyon Road a few days ago is still there
But there's less of it now. - The short Black Canyon cut-off road is always a fun mountain-bike ride
Vehicles rarely use this part of the road. - I spot a Desert four o'clock blooming in Round Valley under a tree on the Black Canyon Cut-off Road
I've hardly seen any of these this year, unlike some other years. - I ride past a windmill in Round Valley on Black Canyon Road
You can see the remains of the old fence posts that burned in the 2005 brush fires, since replaced with a wire fence. - Primroses at my Mid Hills Campground campsite
I manage to sleep in until 10h30 this morning; I really needed the sleep. After a couple of cups of coffee, granola, nuts and vitamin C drink, I'm ready. - Another nice morning at Mid Hills campground, where I didn't expect to stop on this trip; time to plan an outing for the day
Feeling a bit rested after yesterday's "day off" and due to the onset of cooler weather, I'm ready to head off on a bicycle ride and hike to the Barnett Mine area, near Rock Spring. - After my walk around the bottom of Grass Canyon, I ride a few miles down Black Canyon Road to the Cave Spring area and pull over
I've seen Cave Spring on my maps, but never walked over that way to see if there's anything of interest there. I could probably squeeze in a short hike over there right now, but I'll save that for another time. - As I prowl around the hills here, I look over toward Grass Canyon, the next canyon over
Good place for a hike? Maybe. What I don't know right now is that I'll find myself atop Tortoise Shell Mountain in a few days, that rounded hill in the distance. - Rollin' down the river
- I try my cell phone here just south of Rustler Canyon and it works
However, it's so windy that it's difficult to hear anything on the phone! - I reach the end of the dirt road, just south of Rustler Canyon, and park the bicycle
This should be a good place to start a short walk on the rocky hills here. - There are a couple of different types of Cholla cacti here in the area just south of Rustler Canyon
It's not as hot as it was the last few days, but it's warmer down here than at my campsite up at Mid Hills Campground. - Water tank and windmill on Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
The windmill and water tank here serve the cattle that have been grazing here for decades, if not a century. - Guzzler and Paper-bag bush at the summit of Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
Bees love Paper-bag bush (Salazaria mexicana). - Small blue flowers along Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
I've seen these tiny flowers before, and maybe even once knew their name... - Here we go, riding down Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
For a short stretch here, I pass through juniper-sagebrush scrub that didn't burn in the 2005 brush fires here. I wish more of this remained. - Lots of wind up here on Campground Peak North, overlooking Mid Hills campground, nice sunset
I have cell-phone reception up here, so I check my messages, but can barely hear them due to the wind! I walk back down the hill and have another Mountain House Meal: Teriyaki Chicken with rice. A few people are partying up at the north end of the campground, but my area is quiet. The evening cools down, but remains comfortable. There are few flies here this evening. I get to sleep around midnight, but don't sleep as well as hoped. - On the way over to North Campground Peak is another juniper tree that survived the 2005 brush fires here
I walk up the hill to the summit to check out the views and the possible cell-phone signal. - On South Campground Peak, Mid Hills Campground, I discover a couple of juniper trees that survived the 2005 brush fires here
I also find an installation (a weather station?) in between the hills, which may be the source of mysterious loud noises I've heard when camping here during high winds. It's rather windy up here now too, even though not so much down at the campground. - Just before sunset, I go for a short hike up to 'Campground Peaks' just east of Mid Hills Campground
I've camped here at Mid Hills Campground many times, but I never bothered to walk up these hills east of the campground. Today is the perfect occasion to do it, the sunset should be nice from up there. - A nicely placed picnic table by a juniper tree makes for a semi-shady brunch at Mid Hills Campground
I add boiling water to a bag of Mountain House New Orleans Rice with Shrimp and Ham (tasty). Bag says it serves two, but it only serves one of me. I spend the afternoon relaxing, catching up with writing notes in my journal and practicing some language lessons that I brought along. - Nice sunset (belt of Venus) on the way up the Black Canyon Cut-off Road: my final 5 uphill miles of the day will be in the dark
I feel beaten down the last few miles before Mid Hills Campground (as usual!), but riding in the dark means less heat. The campground is almost empty. Like. I don't feel like eating, but make Mountain House Teriyaki Chicken and Rice a bit before midnight. I wash off several days worth of salt and sunscreen from my face and arms under the campground taps, how nice. I fall asleep easily, but am up at 4h30 to urinate, despite wanting to stay in bed! - Riding (and walking the 10-ton bike) up the Black Canyon Cut-off Road as the sun goes down
A few desert mallow flowers are blooming. Sometimes there are thousands of these orange flowers here. I like this short-cut road, only .75 miles long, excellent for mountain bikes. - Dead coyote on Cedar Canyon Road, Mojave National Preserve
The short, steep climb out of Watson Wash was tiring, and now I'm riding slowly uphill into a fierce headwind, so the dead coyote gives a good excuse to take a short break. - The 10-ton bicycle rides down New York Mountains Road alongside Watson Wash toward Cedar Canyon Road
I quickly drop down about 400 feet to join Cedar Canyon Road. Nice to have some downhill, but loose sand on the road requires that I pay close attention in order to not slip and lose control. - A gentle downhill begins as I start crossing the Watson Wash area on New York Mountains Road, Mojave National Preserve
I still have about 15 miles to go and will drop down to about 4800 feet before climbing back up to 5600 at Mid Hills Campground. - I arrive at the junction of New York Mountains Road and Carruthers Canyon, the first of two summits today
There's a hint of a cool breeze up here at 5500 feet, unbelievable after the past few hot days. I've risen almost 1000 feet since I left Ivanpah Road a while back, but it doesn't seem like it because the grade is fairly gradual, and the trip so enjoyable. - Riding (and walking the 10-ton bike) up the Sagamore Cut-off Road, looking for shade under a Joshua tree
Time for an energy-bar break. The heat is still killing my appetite, so I might not be able to eat it all, but I'll eat as much of it as I can. - Video snippet of riding the 10-ton bike through the Joshua tree forest on the Sagamore Cut-Off Road
It's tricky trying to ride the ungainly 10-ton bike with one hand on a camera, and only one hand on the handlebars. Youtube adjustments to the video to reduce shakiness produce interesting effects at times. - The 10-ton bicycle leaves Ivanpah Road for the Sagamore Cut-off Road
I rode this peaceful 5-mile road through the Joshua-tree forest last year and am looking forward to doing it again. - 1.5 downhill miles on the old Mail Spring Road, then 3.5 miles down Ivanpah Rd into the Lanfair Valley
I rapidly lose a few hundred feet of elevation as I ride down Ivanpah Road, but due to the bumpy, washboarded road, I ride almost as slowly as if I were riding uphill. A bit sweaty even on the downhill! - I make a last-minute decision to leave Mail Spring and ride to Mid Hills campground today (I was going to stay here another day)
I pack up and leave around 13h15. A breeze this morning kept the tent a bit cooler this morning, so I managed to sleep in until 9h30. Really needed the sleep, but it's still hot enough that I can't eat much. - Beautiful silence: sunset near Mail Spring, another hot day comes to an end
Beautiful silence: sunset near Mail Spring, another hot day comes to an end I make supper after dark, instant Mountain House Rice with Chicken, yum. A pleasant, warm evening, but my drinking water stays warm too, blech. Sometimes I can hear distant passing trains miles way on the Kelso line. I spend some time staring at the thousands of stars in the moonless sky and get to bed around midnight, but don't sleep really well, again. - I hike across the New York Mountains foothills back to my tent, slowly, to preserve energy, Mojave National Preserve
I'm taking a lot of short breaks, due to the heat, and enjoy occasional gusts of hot wind. I startle a few jackrabbits and birds on my way back to the tent. I can't drink as much water as I need because of heatsickness, but I'll recover after sunset. - On the way back down Keystone Canyon, I notice a few Scarlet gilias blooming
Stopping to look at them is a good excuse to profit from a bit of shade and put down "the baby" (the full 10-litre water bag in my arms) for a few minutes. - I filter water again at Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve
It's hot in the sun, but nice to sit down and listen to the quiet and sounds at the spring. I haven't seen another person for a couple of days. - Arriving Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve: water!
A bird (hawk?) flies away as I arrive, just like yesterday. Same bird? - Hiking up the hill toward Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I walk up Keystone Canyon and up the hill to the spring, slowly and relaxed, to keep from overheating in the hot afternoon (90+F). - Taking a break in the shade in Keystone Canyon, Mojave National Preserve.
I stopped for a break here during yesterday's hike too. Nice camping spot with a little shade just before the road gets so rough that most of us would consider it to end here. - Pineapple cacti on the New York Mountains foothills, Mojave National Preserve
My brand-new Canon camera is malfunctioning, and will now usually only record videos rather than still photos, so I'm experimenting with shooting video on the camera. - Desert marigolds along Wild Horse Canyon Road (I stay camped at Mid Hills Campground)
After a relaxing morning and a bit of sleeping in (hurray for the cooler weather), I'm starting to feel refreshed, and am now on my way on a bicycle ride down to the Hole-in-the-Wall area on an old road I like through scenic Gold Valley. - I leave Wild Horse Canyon Road and head down Gold Valley Road
This is a favorite ride of mine, taken in the north-south direction. - After some nice gentle rolling, Gold Valley Road passes through an old range fence into the next section
From here the road will rise between a couple of unnamed hills off to the right to a summit. An alternate trail doesn't rise up that way, and I'll have to try it one day. - Cows graze by an old burned juniper tree in upper Gold Valley
- I pause at the summit of Gold Valley Road to enjoy the views before starting the downhill ahead
That flat land in the distance is Wild Horse Mesa, which I might hike to again later this trip. I'm at 5440 feet elevation here. - Gold Valley Road is rutted and downhill, essentially a perfect bicycle trail with no traffic
It's not very steep, but there are a few navigational challenges due to the worn-out nature of the old road. I've already dropped 400 feet elevation since passing the summit a mile ago. - I take a break when I reach the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Centre, which is closed during the hot months except on Saturday
I recharge my cell phone using the outdoor plug and fill up on cool water. I meet a couple from LA, also camping at Mid Hills and we decide to meet later at the campground to chat more (but we never do hook up). - I decide to go for a short ride over to the Rustler Canyon area and explore a few roads I've not taken before
I pass a few Range ratany bushes still in full flower with their muted magenta blooms. - I go for a short walk around Mid Hills campground and notice there are still a few flowers blooming, such as this Desert mallow
For the first time on this trip, morning is pleasantly warm, but not hot. I make coffee before going on my short walk. Due to the cooler air, I could sleep in until 10h this morning, which I really needed. - I think this is a kind of fleabane growing by the road at Mid Hills Campground
It looks so lush in this dry environment. - Turpentine broom in the foreground, Banana yuccas in the middle, and Antelope brush behind that
... and lots of burned pinon pines and junipers, of course. - Several types of yellow flowers grow in the Mid Hills campground area and a few of them are still blooming today
I think these are groundsels (Senecio). - My campsite at Mid Hills Campground is the one with no motor vehicle parked out front
I chose this campsite last night because it's somewhat sheltered from the wind (and it was windy for a while last night). I often choose one of the more popular campsites at the north end of the campground with better views (and more wind). - Campground Peaks hiking route (in blue)
1.5 hiking miles, 500 feet elevation gain. - Campground Peaks hiking route elevation profile
1.5 hiking miles, 500 feet elevation gain. - Desert holly bushes attempt camouflage amidst white rock scatter
- Desert rock garden, after the snow
- Snow up above, sand down below, at Eureka Dunes
- Mining debris in snow
- Enjoying desert gold as the mud flats go dry
- First order of this sunny morning is to dig a desert cat hole since I don't have access to a toilet out here!
Actually, this toilet is more scenic than most. - From my campsite on the Sleeping Beauty foothills, I can zoom in on a long freight train down by the freeway
I slept really well last night, though it was chilly. I have instant coffee while packing up, and I nibble on a bit of my dried food, but I don't eat a lot since I'll be eating at the Ludlow Café while on the road. - I'm almost finished packing up the tent and its contents; good-bye Sleeping Beauty!
Nothing left but a bit of flattened earth, a view of the Sleeping Beauty mountains, and memories of yesterday's excellent hike. Despite being November, it's almost warm this morning, probably around 60F. - All packed up, I start riding down the hill away from my Sleeping Beauty campsite
I had to walk the 10-ton bike through this sandy stretch (and a few others) a couple of nights ago on my way up to my campsite. It's much easier in the downhill direction! - Off in the distance below, a puff of dust hovers
A vehicle driving across the desert or the result of one of those explosions from the military base somewhere down there? - Oh, a stray balloon on the side of the road leading down from Sleeping Beauty!
How many of these lost balloons will I see during this trip? It's been only six minutes since the previous photo: the big dust cloud still hovers above the desert floor down there. - I'm just far enough down the dirt road now to have a panoramic view of the Sleeping Beauty peaks behind me
Gee, I was way up there along that high ridge yesterday afternoon... It's interesting to see how this road looks in daylight since it was dark when I rode up to my campsite two nights ago. - Sleeping Beauty road crosses a gas pipeline
Instructions for reporting a gas leak appear on those pipes over there. My gears are sticky, so I stop to add some lube and scrape off some gunk. - After 2 miles of dirt road from Sleeping Beauty, I ride 8 miles, mostly a bit downhill, to Ludlow, for lunch on old Route 66
I'm hungry and looking forward to a meal at the Ludlow Café down there! I have a slight headwind, so I only reach 16 mph, despite riding downhill. My left knee is sore from yesterday, and I hope it doesn't get worse! - After 10 easy bicycle miles, I reach the Ludlow Café and have one of their famous breakfast plates
Mmmm. I've been here a few times before, and the really special item in the meal for me is the homemade biscuit. Good biscuits like these don't need additional butter. Today I get the pork chops for a change (I rarely eat them). - Full belly, I leave the Ludlow Café and head down the nearby dirt road toward Kelso Dunes Wilderness
Ludlow only has about 20 residents, so you're always on the outskirts of town here. The Ludlow ghost town on the other side of the train tracks is interesting, but it's not on my agenda today. - I slowly ride along Crucero Road toward Broadwell Dry Lake, a slight downhill
I stocked up on water (4 1.5-litre bottles) before leaving "town," so my load is heavier now. I'll cross Broadwell Dry Lake and camp on the other side of the Bristol Mountains straight ahead. - On the way down to Broadwell Dry Lake, I stop briefly at the junction of a powerline road that leads into the Bristol Mountains
I don't recall this nice BLM "Heart of the Mojave" sign when I rode down this way last year. I'd like to ride up that road again and explore more, like I did last year. - Also along Crucero Road is this BLM Kelso Dunes Wilderness sign
Loose gravel on the road makes it a bit slippery on the 10-ton bike, but I think the road is in slightly better shape than it was last year. I'll know for sure in a few days when I ride back up the gentle hill here. - When Crucero Road reaches Broadwell Dry Lake, it forks to make two separate northbound roads
The straight-ahead road follows the old railway grade that goes down the middle of the lake, while the left road skirts around the lake. I follow the left road around the lake. - An old sign announcing a proposed toxic waste dump here at Broadwell Dry Lake has been appropriately well shot-up
Fortunately, the proposal for a toxic-waste dump here failed, A more recent proposal to industrialize Broadwell Dry Lake by covering it with solar panels fortunately also failed. - The clay soil on Crucero Road as it skirts the shore of Broadwell Dry Lake has big cracks
It's probably quite muddy here on those few occasions when it rains here. But today, it's a nice hard riding surface, easy after the kitty-litter gravel on the road on the way down the hill. - With sunset approaching in half an hour or so, I'm starting to cast nice long shadows on the edge of Broadwell Dry Lake
The rugged Bristol Mountains stare back at me from the other side of Broadwell Dry Lake. I hiked over that way twice during last fall's trip and this is the ideal time of day to be riding along the dry lake. - Broadwell Dry Lake at sunset
I'll leave all this beauty behind me as the sun sets and as I continue on toward the area where I want to camp. - Crucero Road north of Broadwell Dry Lake gets a bit sandy again
I have to walk the bike occasionally, but most of it isn't too difficult to ride because there's hard-packed earth under the surface sand. I'm hoping I don't encounter any deep sand! - As the sun disappears, I ride past another BLM Heart-of-Mojave sign at the junction of Crucero Road and the Cady Mtns powerline
I turn right here on the powerline road, no cars to be seen anywhere. I've passed a couple of 4WD vehicles on this road since leaving pavement at Ludlow, but that's all. - OK, it's getting dark for real; I'll ride a couple more miles on the powerline road while looking for a campsite
I find a good-looking spot on the Bristol Mountains foothills, not too close to the road. It's dark now, so I use my GPS to mark my chosen spot while I walk my belongings in multiple trips to my campsite in near total darkness by flashlight. I hear noises outside my tent after setting up, and it's a kit fox looking at me! Then I realize I can hear distant rumbling trains from here, nice and quiet otherwise. Except for that sole fly buzzing around my tent: during a cold evening? Clear skies and chilly tonight with no moon and I can see across Crucero Valley toward Hwy 15 and the little town of Baker, where I've started several of my Mojave Desert bicycle-camping trips. - Elevation profile of Sleeping Beauty to Kelso Dunes Wilderness bicycle route
24.9 bicycle miles plus about 1200 feet of elevation drop. - So what's in that old car in front of the Route 66 Motel anyway?
Litter and old junk, naturally! There are a number of old cars on this property, worth checking out. - It's time to leave the gritty, but interesting Route 66 Motel in Barstow, CA and start another week of bicycle camping
I arrived here late yesterday afternoon via Amtrak with the 10-ton bike and had a relaxing evening last night at the motel after a two-mile ride from the bus station. - An old vending machine sits in an alcove between units at Barstow's Route 66 Motel
My motel room is old (which I like, but everyone wouldn't, in the age of Walmart), and there's a lot of neat old stuff to check out here on the Route 66 Motel property. - OK, it's time; I pack up the 10-ton bike and leave the Route 66 Motel—I'll be in sleeping in a tent tonight; I can't wait
It's always hard getting started, and it takes a day or three to get used to the weight of all my gear on the bike. Later today, I'll increase the weight by adding water, so heavy. - I start by riding the two miles down Barstow's Main Street (Route 66) to the end of the east side of town
The bike lane here only lasts a few blocks, and is substandard because a third of it is taken up by the gutter, but I realize on a slow, uphill stretch that I prefer it to none at all. - Before leaving Barstow, I stop at Walmart (a place I usually avoid) to buy a new Camelbak
I didn't realize until last night at the motel that the drinking tube of my Camelbak was starting to decompose. Blech. I also pick up a gallon of drinking water. - I leave Barstow eastbound on a frontage road and then ride the I-40 freeway for 2.5 miles to get past the naval base there
I'm riding into a strong headwind today, the opposite of the most typical wind pattern in this area. I'm often riding at under 10 miles per hour, though I do reach briefly 15 on a slightly downhill stretch of the freeway. - I get off the I-40 freeway at the Nebo Street exit, turn left, then go under the freeway and rejoin old Route 66 eastbound
The shoulder of the freeway is really wide, so there are no conflicts with automobile traffic while riding here. In fact, I get pulled along a little by the wind created by the passing cars, which is nice. - Old Route 66 passes through the interesting little village of Daggett, California
Here's an old "storybook" house that you'll see in many photos of Route 66 in Daggett. - Daggett has numerous unused structures, such as this old gas station
It even had a "food mart." - The Daggett post office is decorated with heavy bars on its windows
However, this isn't south-central Los Angeles or Detroit! - On the other side of the train tracks from Route 66 is Daggett's general store, the Desert Market
There are a few more interesting historic buildings over in that part of Daggett. - East of Daggett, one of several long cargo trains passes by
The area is quite wide-open, punctuated by occasional houses and trailers, a few of which are abandoned. - To my right, not far away, is the I-40 freeway, and just beyond that, the Newberry Mountains are now close by
I almost hiked up there at the end of last year's trip, but a wind storm cancelled that plan. - It's almost 2 pm; I've just passed under I-40 again on Rte 66 near Newberry Springs and here's a gas station
After 20 miles on the bicycle, I stop in for a quick Subway meatball sandwich and a can of Mountain Dew for some additional caffeine at the gas station by the freeway. With 25 miles ahead of me and a strong wind, it's a very slow ride. - There's a bit of traffic on Route 66 in the Newberry Springs area
I ride over the occasional Route 66 insignia painted on the road. I bought some brandy at the gas station stop behind me, for later consumption, but haven't drank any yet. - The abandoned Henning Motel in Newberry Springs appeared in the famous Bagdad Café movie years ago
Today, it's open to the weather, and it's metal roof cover is being stripped by vandals. The property is also for sale. - Next door is the famous Bagdad Café itself
It's still open and serving food. - An old Italian restaurant and gas station sits in Newberry Springs behind a fence
Guard dogs protect the property (and many others in Newberry Springs for that matter). - I stop to look across a dry lake on the east end of Newberry Springs toward the I-40 freeway on the opposite shore
Off in the distance are the Cady Mountains, where I hope to camp and hike later this week. - The worn-out pavement on old Route 66 makes for rather rough riding east of Newberry Springs
Bump, bump, bump. It goes on like this for miles. The mountain patch in the distance is Sleeping Beauty, my destination today. - Some of the remaining structures along Route 66 east of Newberry Springs are deteriorated or no longer in use
The strip of land between old Route 66 and the I-40 freeway seems to be undesirable. - This prefabricated house in east Newberry Springs has no front steps
I guess they don't use the front door often. Or perhaps nobody lives here anyway? - Old motel sign east of Newberry Springs
No building remains exist at this location, just the sign. - A different kind of no-trespassing sign: an entire trailer
It doesn't look like the power line goes to the trailer... - I ride up a gentle hill through the lava field area of old Route 66 east of Newberry Springs
This wouldn't even count as hill if you're driving it in a car, but with the wind pushing me back, I'm surprised that this "hillette" feels so big. - It has been cloudy most of the day, but a bit of sun is peering through the clouds as sunset approaches along old Route 66
The strong wind against me has made today's ride really slow (and tiring), so I take several very short photo breaks along here to enjoy what's left of the sun before it disappears less than an hour from now. - It's getting close to darkness here on Route 66 and my cheap camera is trying to compensate by turning everything blue
I still have 10 miles to go, some uphill, after 35 miles of pedalling today. Getting tired, I stop for an energy bar before sunlight vanishes. After dark, and only a few cars pass by (everyone is on the nearby freeway, and there's little reason not to be). - It has been dark for an hour now, and I'm finally on the dirt road off Route 66 leading up toward Sleeping Beauty mountain
No people around up here and it feels better and quieter as I get further from the nearby I-40 freeway. The only light out here now in the desert is my headlight. As the road gets steeper, I start walking the bike, and it's time to look for a campsite, not too close to the dirt road. - Tired when I get near the top of Sleeping Beauty road, I walk around in a fog for a while looking for a campsite not by the road
Rain sets in around 21h, about an hour after I set up camp, and lasts a couple of hours. I don't remember this being in today's forecast! However, the pitter-patter is soothing on my tent roof, and it keeps excessive numbers of tourists away. - The rain on my tent makes it look metallic with the camera flash; the rain has stopped and it's time to go to sleep!
With the hum of the freeway below me, the rain has stopped before midnight, and it feels good be to be camping in the desert again. I eat some jerky, sip some brandy, and go to bed, satisfied. Temperature drops to mid 30s F. - Rock assortment
- Yesterday, I boarded the Amtrak train with the 10-ton bike at Stockton, California, after a short Amtrak bus ride from San José
My large rear saddlebags get checked in as baggage here, while my bicycle rolls into the San Joaquin train and sits in a nice bicycle rack during the trip. Many Amtrak trains do not accept unboxed bicycles, but this route does. - After the Amtrak train ride to Bakersfield, an Amtrak bus shuttled me to Primm, Nevada to start this bicycle-camping trip
The Primm bus stop is at Whiskey Pete's casino-hotel. It was too late in the day to start my camping trip, so I signed up for an expensive room after a quick ride to check out prices at the other two casino-hotels. One is full due to a Thai fight show. - After settling in at my hotel room at Whiskey Pete's Casino, I ride the monorail across the freeway to the other two casinos
I had already ridden the 10-ton bike through this area and it's not very friendly to non-motorized transport, which isn't surprising. The monorail is a lot more fun! - On the east side of the freeway at Primm, Nevada are two casino-hotels, and one is built with an interesting barn-like shape
The two casino-motels are connected, so I go inside to explore. The casinos are open, but the shopping mall inside is mostly closed at this hour, providing a place to roam uselessly. - The shopping mall at Primm, Nevada is full of fake architecture evoking a real city, rather than the freeway exit that is Primm
I didn't check it out during business hours, but these are supposedly "outlet shops," where you can buy brand-name items for less than retail. That is, if you want any of the things that they sell in the first place... - Also inside the Primm shopping-casino complex is a fake stream with fake wildlife
Fake wildlife is probably better than real for some folks, judging by the odd reactions I sometimes get when I tell them that I'm on a wilderness bicycle-camping trip in Mojave National Preserve (and risking contact with real wildlife). - The casinos at Primm are quite a visual spectacle, with brilliant lights everywhere
Of course, there's lots of noise too, from the beeping of the gambling machines to the cheesy background music to the buzz of people talking. It wasn't that busy here last night, perhaps because of the Thai fighting show. - Outside the two high-rise casino-hotels at Primm, Nevada is a luxurious gas station with a bay for each vehicle filling up
I stopped at the store here, perhaps the only person without a car, and bought a couple of Newcastle beers to take back to my room. I was happy to see they have a couple of good beers on sale here! - I wake up this morning at Primm, Nevada and peek outside across the swimming pool to a cool and extremely windy day
High winds were forecast for for the first couple of days of my trip ("local winds may be damaging"), so I'm not surprised, but I am disappointed that the forecast has become reality! - I eat breakfast at the McDonald's downstairs in the Whiskey Pete's casino; there's more garbage than food on my table
Everything is yellow to brown, no vegetables. What I would really like right now is not this, but an iron bowl of sizzling Korean bibimbap with rice, a fried egg, and vegetable and meat garnish... (but this is the California desert) - I pack up the 10-ton bike, and roll it out down the hall to the Whiskey Pete's elevator
I was hoping for a ground-floor room so I could avoid using the elevator, but I ended up with a second floor room. It turned out not to matter much, since the packed 10-ton bike fits perfectly in the elevator. - After escaping Whiskey Pete's, I begin the trip for real by riding through Primm toward the dirt roads that lead out of town
See that narrow dirt road straight ahead at the end of the pavement? That will be my road. The bend on the silly palm trees indicates how windy it is here today in this part of the Mojave Desert. - Just outside Primm is one of the entrances to the Ivanpah Dry Lake recreation area
Ivanpah Dry Lake is mostly used for wind-sailing. Regulations state "non-motorized use only," so it might be a fun place to ride a bicycle too. I don't have time for that today, nor do I have a permit, so I continue on toward Nipton. - I take a look back at Primm as I leave town; I considered riding on the freeway for a smoother ride toward Nipton
After all the traffic and activity around Primm, it's nice to be out on a lonely dirt road and getting started with this year's trip. Glad to not be on the freeway, especially with a headwind. Sometimes I like riding on the big roads, but today I'm itching to get away from all that. - After 1.5 miles, my road ends at the train tracks; I make a right turn for the 10.5 mile ride to Nipton on Nipton-Desert Rd
As soon as I turn here, I cross the state border and enter California for part of the day. - Soonafter, the first train of this trip passes me on bumpy Nipton-Desert Road
Nipton-Desert Road hugs the train tracks all the way to Nipton, and into Mojave National Preserve. The road is rough, but not as sandy as it was during an earlier ride here on Nipton-Desert Road back in 1999. I think I lucked out on this one. - From Nipton-Desert Rd, I can see across Ivanpah Dry Lake to the huge BrightSource solar plant under construction
The BrightSource solar plant is plowing down quite a big chunk of Ivanpah Valley here, transforming it from wild land to an industrial park. What a waste. - The bumpy Nipton-Desert Road is starting to give me a headache, so I'm happy to take a break by this prickly poppy
I eat an energy bar and enjoy the quiet out here and the views of Castle Peaks in the distance. I'll visit there in a few days. I haven't seen a car or a person since leaving pavement back at Primm. - This railway undercrossing along Nipton-Desert Road also serves as a road to the Lucy Gray Mine
I haven't visited the Lucy Gray Mountains yet, but behind them are the McCullough Mountains, my destination today. - After about 6 miles of bumpy Nipton-Desert Road, I'm happy to reach the relative smoothness of some residual old pavement
I'll have this pavement for the final 3-4 miles until I reach Nipton. Hurray! - I pass an old corral on Nipton-Desert Road
Only a couple more miles to go until I reach Nipton. - Approaching the tiny town of Nipton, California, population 20, with the Castle Peaks in the background
I always look forward to stopping at Nipton, and I sometimes camp here also. It's one of the few places around where a camper can get a much-needed shower! - I take a break at the Nipton general store for chips and iced tea, and I fill my water supply to the max
One of the women working there remembers me from last year. I learn that a major plumbing problem under repair has temporarily closed the café and showers, so I unfortunately won't be coming back for a shower later during this trip. I buy a couple of Fat Tire beers for later :) - I glance at Nipton's little solar-power plant as I begin the ride up the hill toward Crescent Pass, Nevada
It's nice how they've built this solar plant right in town, to reportedly supply 85% of the town's power needs, instead of destroying open desert land further out. - The four-mile climb up Nipton Road to Crescent Pass isn't too steep, but it does take some time pedaling in the lower gears
I'm fortunate to have today's strong winds behind me, helping me up this hill. With a full water load (about 18 litres), the 10-ton bike is at it's heaviest. I'll gain about 1800 feet elevation during these four miles. - I always have to stop at the "Welcome to Nevada" sign whenever I pass by here
Nipton Road becomes Hwy 164 when it leaves California and enters Nevada here. - At the junction of Lucky Dutchman Road, I look back down into Ivanpah Valley and Ivanpah Dry Lake
Soon, I'll leave these views behind me as I enter the McCullough Mountains. - Approaching Crescent Pass, I ride under the power-transmission lines that I'll soon follow into the McCullough Mountains
Traffic on Hwy 164/Nipton Road has been fairly light today. There are a few cars here right now, but I've often had the road to myself while climbing the hill. - Also along the Highway 164 roadside are what I think are desert marigolds
There are so many yellow desert flowers that it's easy to get them mixed up with each other unless you spend time studying the details of each type. - Palmer's penstemons are always nice to run across
Bees always seem to enjoy these flowers. - A Gooding's verbena blooms near a Palmer's penstemon along Highway 164
I've seen these verbenas most often in the burned areas of Mojave National Preserve. - A desert primrose is blooming here along Highway 164
The flowers look like they're starting to fade; perhaps I'm seeing the beginning of the end of its blooming. - I start seeing a few wildflower blooms along Highway 164, so I pull over to walk around for a closer look
A few orange desert mallow bushes are blooming in this area. - At the Crescent Pass summit, I see the little dirt road into the McCullough Mountains that I'll follow
I'm excited to start riding up that road toward Pine Spring in the McCullough Mountains. I was hoping to camp up there last spring, but ran out of time. - After a short distance, I turn back for my last view of the Castle Peaks before I disappear into the McCullough Mountains
I can still see Highway 164 over there. No more pavement for a couple of days! - A cattle-guard marks my entry into the McCullough Mountains area
The dirt road ahead, in good condition so far, rises slowly into the rolling hills on the southeast end of the McCullough Mountains here. - I pass an old mine site, clearly marked, and am tempted to stop to explore
However, it's 16h30, and I don't know if I will encounter any obstacles on my way to the Pine Spring area, so I continue ahead on the 10-ton bike. - My nice firm road surface transforms into shallow "kitty litter" as the road passes through a wash area
Since the pea gravel here isn't too deep, I can maintain traction on most of this stretch, thanks to my fat 2.3" Serfas "Swoop" tires. Still, I occasionally end up walking the 10-ton bike, hoping for firmer ground ahead. - I'm happy when my gravelly road in the wash leads to the firmer ground of the McCullough Mountains powerline road
This road is generally heading in a downhill direction. However, many short steep hills like this one cut across the area's rugged topography, making for a fun roller-coaster-like ride on the 10-ton bike. - I pause on one of the many level stretches (in my direction of travel) along the McCullough Mountains powerline road
The numerous joshua trees here make for a really scenic ride, in addition to the fact that I've seen no people other than myself so far since leaving the pavement of Highway 164. - I stop again to take in the views eastward across Nevada's scenic Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness
The McCullough Mountains powerline road where I'm riding is the western boundary of Nevada's Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness. So many joshua trees... - More fun rolling up and down (more down than up) along the powerline road on the southeast side of the McCullough Mountains
I'm glad this road has turned out to be a fun ride, even with the 10-ton bike and a bit of loose rock on the road. Some of the other desert powerline roads have lengthy stretches that are ridiculously steep, and unrideable. - I take a short energy-bar break where I leave the powerline road for a lesser road heading toward the Pine Spring area
I've dropped to about 4550 feet elevation from about 5000 feet during the last four miles, but I'll gain most of that back during the final few miles ahead. - Loose rock and an uphill grade require that I walk the 10-ton bike up parts of the road toward the Pine Spring area
The mild temperatures (the wind up here in the hills is a bit chilly) have helped me ease into climbing hills with the 10-ton bike for the first time since last November's Route 66 trip. - I remount the bike and pedal some more when I reach a less hilly part of the road heading toward the McCullough Mountains
I notice I'm feeling tired; that last energy bar didn't provide much of a boost. The strong winds pushing against me here are using a lot of my energy, so I still find myself walking the bike occasionally. - I haven't seen a lot of wildflowers in this area today, but here are a couple in the road to Pine Spring
I think this is a desert marigold and a small purple flower whose name I can no longer remember. - I make my final turn for the day onto a road that winds down and around a few low hills en-route to Pine Spring
Happy to have a brief downhill! I'm only a couple of miles away from Pine Spring now. My arms are getting tired from steering with a full 10-litre water bag on my front rack. - Joshua trees poke up above the shade line to collect the sunset light along Pine Spring Road, McCullough Mountains
I'm immensely enjoying the scenery here, but notice that the road is getting sandy in places since it's in a wash here. - Pine Spring Rd gets sandier and is heading slightly uphill again, so I look for a campsite; I think I may have found one
I need a significant windbreak due to the almost-stormy winds. It turns out that over by that juniper tree against the low hill is just barely enough room between plants for a good campsite. I dismantle the 10-ton bike and walk my belongings over there. - I set up my tent and enjoy the full moon that has risen before sunset
Of course, the full moon will be even better after sunset! - After darkness falls, I boil water under the full moon for the first add-water-to-bag meal of this trip
I stabbed my leg on that yucca while setting up my tent, since there's just barely enough space for a tent here. It's a nice cozy spot; I listen to the evening's high winds howling above me with little impact on my tent. - Tonight's meal is Backpacker's Pantry Beef and Broccoli, really good, plus a bottle of Fat Tire beer that I picked up at Nipton
I put on my sweater and long underwear (brrr) and write notes in my journal, periodically stepping outside to enjoy a bit of moonlight. It's a bit colder than I expected (low 40sF?), but I'm happy to be out in the Mojave Desert again as my evening fades away. I haven't seen any people since I left the pavement of Highway 164 earlier, but there are fairly fresh tire tracks on the road here. I fall asleep around midnight wondering what tomorrow's hike into the McCullough Mountains might bring. My tent flaps around a bit, but is mostly protected from the high winds blowing across the area. My upper body hasn't pushed a heavy bicycle in a while and my stomach muscles almost feel bruised from doing this. Hopefully this will heal overnight! - One nice thing about my Pine Spring campsite is a little sandy drainage area near my tent, perfect for a cat hole
In so many places out here, it can be really hard to dig a hole in the rocky desert soil. - Waking up after the first night of a camping trip is always special; I've finally arrived. It was chilly overnight and I'm feeling exhausted from yesterday. I was so tired that I didn't wake up once during the night. It always takes a few days to build u
Waking up after the first night of a camping trip is always special; I've finally arrived. It was chilly overnight and I'm feeling exhausted from yesterday. I was so tired that I didn't wake up once during the night. It always takes a few days to build up stamina. I was comfortable sleeping with my sweater and long underwear on in the sleeping bag, plus my thin summer pants. I even used the hood on my sleeping bag to keep my head warm! - Gold flowers growing in the gravel near my tent, which I think at first are goldfields (Lasthenia californica)
However, these are Eriophyllum wallacei (Wallace's Woolly Daisy). I haven't seen a lot of wildflowers yet, perhaps I'll see more on today's hike up into the McCullough Mountains. - I start today's hike after a slow breakfast and notice an old coconut-juice can by Pine Spring Road
This is different... usually the discarded cans I find in the desert tend to be of the "Bud Lite" variety. Breakfast was granola and tamari almonds, a combination I usually like, but I guess I'm not used to dry low-fat camping food yet. I'll get used to it soon enough! - My energy is really low this morning as I start walking up the road toward the McCullough Mountains
A mature juniper grows almost in the road ahead. My two cups of coffee (Starbuck's instant Tribute Blend) a short while ago don't seem to be providing much of a kickstart. My cup of vitamin-C drink doesn't seem to have helped much either. - There are also a few old pinyon pine trees along Pine Spring Rd: not a surprise given the name of this place
It's not even a hot day, but I'm already appreciating the brief shade as I hopefully get warmed up for this hike. The road is quite sandy in places, so I'm glad I didn't bother dragging the 10-ton bike any further last night. - A few healthy barberry bushes grow along Pine Spring Road
Though lush-looking and green, this plant has tough, prickly leaves that you don't really want to brush up against. - I must be near Pine Spring; here's an old rusty tobacco can lid
Copenhagen satisfies!