I stop at the Mojave National Preserve visitor centre at Kelso Depot, chat briefly with rangers on duty and replenish my 18-litre water supply again. Each time I fill up, I am reminded of the weight of the water that I carry (almost 40 pounds) and wonder if I'm crazy.
I have to carry this much because I don't know if the springs in the Butcher Knife Canyon area will have any water for me and I do plan on spending two nights there.