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One hour after leaving Coyote Springs, I pull into the Mojave National Preserve visitor centre at Kelso Depot The 8.5-mile descent down Kelbaker Road to Kelso Depot is always funThumbnailsI also visit the washrooms outside Kelso Depot to wet my hair and rinse one of my wool t-shirts and a couple of other itemsThe 8.5-mile descent down Kelbaker Road to Kelso Depot is always funThumbnailsI also visit the washrooms outside Kelso Depot to wet my hair and rinse one of my wool t-shirts and a couple of other itemsThe 8.5-mile descent down Kelbaker Road to Kelso Depot is always funThumbnailsI also visit the washrooms outside Kelso Depot to wet my hair and rinse one of my wool t-shirts and a couple of other itemsThe 8.5-mile descent down Kelbaker Road to Kelso Depot is always funThumbnailsI also visit the washrooms outside Kelso Depot to wet my hair and rinse one of my wool t-shirts and a couple of other itemsThe 8.5-mile descent down Kelbaker Road to Kelso Depot is always funThumbnailsI also visit the washrooms outside Kelso Depot to wet my hair and rinse one of my wool t-shirts and a couple of other items

I stop at the Mojave National Preserve visitor centre at Kelso Depot, chat briefly with rangers on duty and replenish my 18-litre water supply again. Each time I fill up, I am reminded of the weight of the water that I carry (almost 40 pounds) and wonder if I'm crazy.

I have to carry this much because I don't know if the springs in the Butcher Knife Canyon area will have any water for me and I do plan on spending two nights there.