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- I'll be at Fenner shortly; I definitely need a break and I want some COLD water
I'm staring at those palm trees down there where there's a store selling food and cold drinks! - 34 miles into today's ride, just before arriving at Fenner, I exit Mojave National Preserve for a while
I take a look back at where I came from. I'm having so much fun that it's easy to forget that I have a long ride to get back home to my tent. - I arrive at the store at Fenner, CA and the outdoor thermometer reads 89F in the shade; no wonder I'm hot and thirsty!
I'll learn later that it hit 102F at nearby Essex, which I'll ride through shortly on the long ride back to my campsite in Mojave National Preserve. - Fenner Hills Road crosses a wide gravelly area thst was apparently once cleared of vegetation
Perhaps this was once a mining spot, or a landing pad? My maps don't offer any additional information. - Ugh, Fenner Hills Road passes through a couple of sandy stretches where I can barely ride my bike.
I have to get off and walk the bike for a few minutes, nothing too serious, yet. - Out of the last sand-trap on Fenner Hills Road, the road briefly crosses a gravelly area, then returns to a soft earth surface
- Occasionally, Fenner Hills Road almost fades away, in the gravelly stretches
- Just before I leave the powerline road for Fenner Hills Road, I spot yet another balloon, near the one I just saw
This one is in better condition, for what that's worth... - After about 25 miles so far today, I get excited as I start riding the almost 9 miles down Fenner Hills Road toward Fenner
I've never explored this area and the road seems quite rarely traveled. Nice country as the road follows the Fenner Hills. It will be a gradual downhill, from about 2850 feet elevation down to about 2075. - After a few miles, the rough Fenner Hills Road passes by a small hill on the right
Barrel cacti! - On some parts of Fenner Hills Road, rocks provide the surface for short stretches
- Some stretches of Fenner Hills Road are just a weak track through creosote-bush scrub
It doesn't look like this road gets traffic every day. This looks like a cool place for a campsite. - My Fenner Hills Road route crosses the (gas) pipeline road, both roads lightly traveled
I stop to take a look down the pipeline road toward Foshay Pass, that dent in the Providence Mountains over there. The pipeline road and the powerline road almost meet each other in that area. - Just before I leave the powerline road for Fenner Hills Road, I spot the remains of a balloon
I wonder where this one blew in from... - As the road crosses Watson Wash ahead, I run across a rancher in a pick-up truck on the way up that hill over there
He's the only traffic I stumble across on today's dirt-riding. We have a good conversation and he warns me that there's a very sandy stretch ahead. - I pause to shoot photos at another water stop along the route, more cow shit everywhere of course!
- The road quickly gets better and I pass another functional corral just before I arrive at the powerline road
Yeah, no more deep sand, for now at least! - I go for a short ride up a side road, wondering where it leads, and it ends near a guzzler, which is dry today
Hmmm... I can't imagine there's a lot of wildlife in this area due to the hordes of cattle roaming around. - I'm intrigued by a cow carcass that I discover along the road
I don't think I've ever seen one of these before. - Smile for the camera!
The carcass still smells a bit, but there's no meat left on it. I'm sure some vultures and yellowjacket wasps have been happy with this find. - Ah, a view of Tortoise Shell Mountain in the Woods Mountains, where I hiked yesterday
From this angle, it's easy to see why the hill is called "Tortoise Shell Mountain," owing to its shape. - Woods Wash Valley Road continues through remote territory
...but it doesn't feel as remote as it might due to the presence of so many cattle. - Cow shit everywhere, I'm getting used to the smell in the hot sun!
- I leave camp before 10h and ride past the Woods Mountains, at first on the way to Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Centre to get water
After the usual coffee, almonds, granola, dried fruit and vitamin C drink for breakfast, I pack up the mountain bike for a day ride without all my gear that will turn out to be longer than expected. - I pause briefly at the high point of Woods Wash Road to check out remnants of barbed-wire removal
Many former ranching fences in the Preserve have been removed to facilitate movement of wildlife and hikers. - More remnants of barbed-wire removal along Woods Wash Road, with Table Mountain and one of the Twin Buttes in the background
- After 5 miles, I arrive at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground and go for a short ride, noting that it's nearly deserted today
Next, I head over to the visitor centre, closed today, for water and to recharge my cell phone: it seems to be becoming my main camera. My regular Canon pocket camera won't shoot still photos any more, but it still sometimes will shoot video. - I try riding a half-mile down a really sandy road near Rustler Canyon, but it doesn't work out and I decide to backtrack
There aren't even any tire tracks on this road! Instead, I decide to try another open nearby road (thanks to my map), which proves to be more serviceable. - This better, unnamed road in the Woods Wash Valley is also rather sandy, but it is rideable
I quickly learn that this is heavy cattle-grazing territory, in addition to being designated Wilderness on both sides of the road. - Cow shit everywhere here in the upper Woods Wash Valley; 4WD required, I only have two (but I do have two feet in addition)
As long as the road doesn't get any more sandy than this, I'm fine. But this sign worries me a bit... I continue onward, slightly downhill. - I notice a small water tank on the roadside and it's full of fresh, clean water
Nice to know, in case I should ever need it! - The sun gets lower as I hike back up the wash toward my tent near Twin Buttes
I'm happy with today's hike. Nice day. Pretty warm, but not too hot - On the way out of Woods Wash, I walk a short distance up a side wash and stumble across a small natural arch
- After a break to enjoy the summit of Tortoise Shell Mountain, I start my way back down to Woods Wash
On my way down, I'm serenaded by the electrical sound of some kind of desert cicada. I consider a side hike up adjacent Burro Canyon, but the mid-afternoon heat is starting to get to me, and my drinking water is getting really warm. - I arrive at the top of little Tortoise Shell Mountain and notice there's a rarely used register here for me to sign
I take a 30-minute break up here to enjoy the landscape. Expecting a cool breeze up on this exposed hill, I find it's actually rather hot up here from all the volcanic rock soaking up the heat. - I reach the plateau below Tortoise Shell Mountain and spot a deer in the distance on the hillside
S/he sees me and darts off. This seems like bighorn sheep country, but I think it's a deer, which are more common out here. - At a bend in the canyon, I decide to climb up the hill where it's not too steep to get some views of the area
I realize that Tortoise Shell Mountain, fairly low at just under 4600 feet elevation, is just ahead, so I'll continue upwards and check it out. It's getting rather warm in this canyon. A yellowjacket wasp chases me up the hill. - Hiking down Woods Wash, I take a look around the historic site and start hiking up an unnamed side canyon
I come across an animal trail, and follow it when possible for the best route up the canyon. Due to obstructions here and there, it's easy to lose it occasionally, only to find it again shortly thereafter. There's Tortoise Shell Mountain in the background. - I arrive at the Woods Wash trailhead and find that someone else, in a Jeep, is also doing the hike down the wash
I saw that Jeep drive down the road past my tent earlier. I start my hike down the wash and meet the folks with the Jeep, on their way back. We have a good chat. They've been coming here for years. - I stop to take a look at an old corral in Woods Wash
- I'm mostly hiking cross-country, but I walk briefly on a segment of Woods Wash Road and spot a lizard
There are lots of these out here, but it's not always easy to catch them on camera! - I encounter a barbed-wire fence shortly after I start today's hike toward Woods Wash; I find a spot where I can crawl under it
I'm going to hike a bit up into the Woods Mountains after the hike down Woods Wash, not exactly sure where yet. I marked a few possible good spots on my GPS. - Tortoise Shell Mountain hike elevation profile
12 hiking miles, 1500 feet elevation gain. - An hour later, I'm back down in the Woods Wash area
I'll check out the historic site during the hike back to my tent. - Scribbles
- Crescent moon and etchings
- Chalkboard?
- Most of this has been here for a long time...
- I could spend hours here looking at this stuff
- It looks like there has been some weather erosion on some of the designs here
- Some of these look carved deeply into the rock
- Yucca in Woods Wash, plus some bonus carvings
- Sunset back home at the tent near Twin Buttes, I fix the broken rack piece on my bike (glad I brought extra parts!)
No owls this evening, but the warmer weather brought out a lot of singing crickets. Quiet evening: no sign of any other people out this way. Supper, after sundown, is Mountain House Rice with Sweet and Sour Pork, mmm. - Sitting up on Tortoise Shell Mountain for half an hour, I enjoy views toward Wild Horse Mesa and the Providence Mountains
The Cave Spring area that I hope to visit before I go back to San José is just off to the left. - I also enjoy views across the Lanfair Valley while sitting up on Tortoise Shell Mountain
I had planned to head over that way, to the Piute Range, during this trip, but the hot-weather system that moved in changed those plans. Next time! - It got rather cold overnight, so I didn't sleep well, but as soon as the sun hit my tent this morning, it was intensely hot!
I'm awake for good just after 8h and have my usual camp breakfast of vitamin C drink, cold instant Starbucks coffee, granola, almonds and a bit of dried fruit. A slight breeze drifts through the tent. - A part on my rear rack breaks as I stop to look for a campsite along Woods Wash Road
- I ride along Woods Wash Road around sunset toward an as-yet-unknown campsite
- I take a break at Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre to recharge my phone
- I try to keep up with a cow and a wild burro that I spot along Wild Horse Canyon Road
- I pause along Wild Horse Canyon Road to watch a cow trudge along in an adjacent wash
- Laundry out to dry at Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve
- Ortlieb waterproof bicycle saddlebags make a great washing machine or ice bucket!
- I rinse my hair under a tap at Mid Hills Campground as part of breaking camp today
As usual when I'm here, I've been sucked into the Mid Hills campground vortex and don't want to leave. I keep looking for excuses to stay here another night, but I do need to recharge my cell phone again, now that I'm taking photos with it more often. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Mid Hills Campground to Twin Buttes area
Easy day: 16.4 bicycle miles plus about 800 feet of elevation gain (and a fun 1700 feet of elevation drop). - Bicycle route from Mid Hills Campground to Twin Buttes area
Easy day: 16.4 bicycle miles plus about 800 feet of elevation gain (and a fun 1700 feet of elevation drop). - I walk around the area where my bike rack broke, looking for an open area for a good campsite, not too close to the road
Success! I set up camp at dusk, perfect timing. No people, extremely quiet, just an occasional breeze as the cool of the evening sets in. A few birds at sunset, then a pair of owls hoo-hoo for a few hours after dark. I hate to disturb the silence by cooking supper: Backpacker's Pantry Jamaican Chicken and Rice, which is only so-so. I stay up late, until 1h, listening to the owls, enjoying residual moonlight from the half-moon until it's gone, and writing notes in my journal. - I'm excited to be heading up Woods Wash Rd toward my new campsite, though I don't know exactly where that is yet
My water load is full and heavy (I filled up back at Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre), so it's slow riding on the sandy road here, slightly uphill. - Table Mountain on the left, and Twin Buttes: a classic Mojave National Preserve view that I usually see from Black Canyon Road
... but this evening I'm a bit closer, on the U-shaped Woods Wash Road. Soon, I'll be passing by the Twin Buttes hill on the right. - This stretch of Woods Wash Road follows an old range fence toward Twin Buttes, with old rough-hewn wood posts
History... - I ride the 10-ton bike slowly on the heavy washboard of this part of Wild Horse Canyon Road
It's a nice downhill here, and I wish I could ride faster, but with the weight of all my gear, I don't want things to be bouncing around any more than necessary. - Cool rock formations abound on lower Wild Horse Canyon Road, Mojave National Preserve
It gets even better closer to the Hole-in-the-Wall visitor centre, and there's some good hiking there that I might do during the next few days. - Wild Horse Canyon Road is all scenic, but I especially enjoy riding down this part with the Providence Mountains in the distance
I'm riding Wild Horse Canyon Road down to Hole-in-the-Wall visitor Centre, where I'll recharge my phone and fill up on water before heading out to the Twin Buttes area for a backcountry campsite. - Wild Horse Canyon Road rolls along as it approaches the Barber Peaks area
I never get tired of this ride. - I reach a point where I have a view over to Bluejay Mine Road and Wild Horse Mesa above
That's another road I've ridden a few times on past trips here, and worth doing again, with good hiking at the end of the road. But it's not on my route today. The climb up to Wild Horse Mesa via the saddle just to the left of my glasses is memorable too. - I finally leave: on my way out of Mid Hills Campground, I run into Ranger Greg, and we have a great chat
He knows the less-visited areas of the Preserve that I'm interested in and shares some good information: thanks! I regret missing his geology talk the other day. I'm always so caught up in my own travels that I never go to any of the interesting visitor events here. - I make it back to the Barnett Mine area at sunset, pick up the bicycle, and ride the 10 miles back to camp in dusk and dark
Relieved that I finished climbing the rock pile before dark, the ride back to Mid Hills, mostly in the dark, is leisurely. I pass no other vehicles, but I do see a campfire near Holliman Well as my headlight quietly cuts through the dark. Supper is Mountain House Rice with Sweet and Sour Pork; good again. It's cold again tonight, so I wear my sweater, long underwear, double socks and a bandana to keep warm. After the heat of the first few days of the trip, it almost feels good to be cold! - Paperbag bush glowing in the sun (Salazaria mexicana) high on the fan above Watson Wash
- The big rock piles here above Watson Wash are even more impressive up close than they are from a distance
I've often looked over this way when passing through the area, but never ventured over here on foot to explore until today. Good hiking choice! - I keep hiking up the gentle slope, passing through another patch of burned desert above Black Diamond Spring
- On the way up the fan, I look over to Keckiella Rocks, a small plateau of volcanic-looking rock
Just to the left of it is "Little Keckiella Rocks," a smaller, similar formation. - Energy-bar break above Watson Wash!
I have to cross over those hills up there to get back to the bicycle. - After a very short break at stinky Black Diamond Spring, I walk through an area full of white buckwheat flowers
This area did not burn during the 2005 brush fires here; what a difference! I'm starting my way back up the hill, on the other side of a low ridge (don't want to go back the same way I came). - The animal trail ends at Black Diamond Spring, Mojave National Preserve, just as expected
Just a big puddle of water here at this time of year, but nonetheless dramatic in such a dry landscape, even with a lot of cow shit around to stink up the area. Quail and other birds add noise to the sound of the wind and my footsteps. - Follow the animal trail, follow the animal trail!
The trail leaves the burned area and passes through blackbrush and cholla scrub on the way down to Black Diamond Spring. - I bet this animal trail leads to Black Diamond Spring!
I'll follow it and find out. - I like walking through some easy-to-miss chia sages in Upper Black Diamond Spring Valley
These produce a classic musty sage aroma when you brush up against them. - A lone juniper in Upper Black Diamond Spring Valley survived the 2005 brush fires here
- I decide to walk up to the top of the hill and see if it would be easy to walk down the other side
At the top, I can see across to Hackberry Mountain. I check my GPS. Looks good, so I decide to walk down the hill toward Black Diamond Spring. - Time to explore a little: I climb up a hill behind the Barnett Mine and take a look at the panorama
Today's hike wasn't planned, so I'm just walking around and enjoying the surroundings. - I go for a walk past one of the mine shafts at Barnett Mine
I wonder if the shaft was once deeper, and has been since filled in for safety reasons. - I start walking up the trail to the old mine site: I see people over there--amazing
We don't meet, since they're walking in the other direction. I suspect they don't see me. I rarely run into people in the backcountry out here, but this location is an easy walk in from the historic Mojave Road, which is fairly well-traveled. - The dead coyote I passed on Cedar Canyon Road a few days ago is still there
But there's less of it now. - The short Black Canyon cut-off road is always a fun mountain-bike ride
Vehicles rarely use this part of the road. - I spot a Desert four o'clock blooming in Round Valley under a tree on the Black Canyon Cut-off Road
I've hardly seen any of these this year, unlike some other years. - I ride past a windmill in Round Valley on Black Canyon Road
You can see the remains of the old fence posts that burned in the 2005 brush fires, since replaced with a wire fence. - Primroses at my Mid Hills Campground campsite
I manage to sleep in until 10h30 this morning; I really needed the sleep. After a couple of cups of coffee, granola, nuts and vitamin C drink, I'm ready. - Another nice morning at Mid Hills campground, where I didn't expect to stop on this trip; time to plan an outing for the day
Feeling a bit rested after yesterday's "day off" and due to the onset of cooler weather, I'm ready to head off on a bicycle ride and hike to the Barnett Mine area, near Rock Spring. - Black Diamond Spring hike from Barnett Mine, Mojave National Preserve
7.5 round-trip hiking miles with about 1200 feet of hiking elevation gain (plus 22.3 round-trip bicycle miles from Mid Hills Campground) - Route of Black Diamond Spring-Barnett Mine bike-hike from Mid HIlls campground
22.3 bicycle miles and 7.5 hiking miles with about 1200 feet of hiking elevation gain. (Bicycle track in red, hiking in blue.) - Hmmm, I'm not making as much progress climbing all these rocks as I would like
I'm spending a lot of energy going up and down to avoid rocks and trees instead of getting closer to the summit up there. - Up on the rock-pile hill, it seems that everything is steep going up and steep going down, with neither direction being best
It's getting close to sunset and this is not a place that I want to be forced to navigate in the dark. - I consider climbing back down to the wash and trying a less rocky route up over the hill, but I might as well continue upward
I go into high-speed mode climbing the rocks and am happy when I reach the final, less rocky, uphill stretch, which feels like a 45-degree angle at times. I can climb uphill quite well, as long as I don't look back and let vertigo set in. - I need to climb up over that ridge to my right to get back to the Barnett Mine area
The rock climbing is fun, but it's slow and I'm not covering much distance at all. I'm having even more camera problems now, so I'm trying out my cell phone to take a few photos. - Nice views eastward across the Lanfair Valley as I reach the top of the fan above Watson Wash
In a few minutes, I'll be climbing some of those rock piles behind me, which seems like the best way to get over the hill and back to my bicycle. - A couple of stray boulders sit on this part of Upper Black Diamond Spring Valley
This area burned really hard in the 2005 brush fires. Almost 7 years later, there's still very little growing here. The desert recovers sooo slowly. - A row of vertical rocks outcrops above Barnett Mine frame a view of Table Mountain
Table Mountain is a prominent landmark visible from many parts of Mojave National Preserve. - I walk down a rocky slope and join a brushy drainage that should lead to Black Diamond Spring
- Have a seat and relax at the end of the Barnett Mine Road
This squarish area with char on the ground looks like a possible site of an old structure or cabin. - More mining remains at the Barnett Mine
- All rides out of Mid Hills Campground start with Wild Horse Canyon Road, and I always enjoy the descent into Round Valley
It's not quite as easy to come back up though, when the 10-ton bike is loaded up. But I'm carrying no gear on today's day ride. - The road to the Barnett Mine area, about 1.5 miles long, is rough and slightly uphill
Like most backcountry desert roads, it gets rougher as it gets closer to the end. - A bit of assorted debris is scattered around at the end of the Barnett Mine Road
Perhaps a cabin was once here, and burned? Good view across the valley to Pinto Mountain. - After my walk around the bottom of Grass Canyon, I ride a few miles down Black Canyon Road to the Cave Spring area and pull over
I've seen Cave Spring on my maps, but never walked over that way to see if there's anything of interest there. I could probably squeeze in a short hike over there right now, but I'll save that for another time. - As I prowl around the hills here, I look over toward Grass Canyon, the next canyon over
Good place for a hike? Maybe. What I don't know right now is that I'll find myself atop Tortoise Shell Mountain in a few days, that rounded hill in the distance. - I try my cell phone here just south of Rustler Canyon and it works
However, it's so windy that it's difficult to hear anything on the phone! - I reach the end of the dirt road, just south of Rustler Canyon, and park the bicycle
This should be a good place to start a short walk on the rocky hills here. - There are a couple of different types of Cholla cacti here in the area just south of Rustler Canyon
It's not as hot as it was the last few days, but it's warmer down here than at my campsite up at Mid Hills Campground. - Water tank and windmill on Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
The windmill and water tank here serve the cattle that have been grazing here for decades, if not a century. - Guzzler and Paper-bag bush at the summit of Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
Bees love Paper-bag bush (Salazaria mexicana). - Small blue flowers along Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
I've seen these tiny flowers before, and maybe even once knew their name... - Here we go, riding down Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
For a short stretch here, I pass through juniper-sagebrush scrub that didn't burn in the 2005 brush fires here. I wish more of this remained. - Desert marigolds along Wild Horse Canyon Road (I stay camped at Mid Hills Campground)
After a relaxing morning and a bit of sleeping in (hurray for the cooler weather), I'm starting to feel refreshed, and am now on my way on a bicycle ride down to the Hole-in-the-Wall area on an old road I like through scenic Gold Valley. - I leave Wild Horse Canyon Road and head down Gold Valley Road
This is a favorite ride of mine, taken in the north-south direction. - After some nice gentle rolling, Gold Valley Road passes through an old range fence into the next section
From here the road will rise between a couple of unnamed hills off to the right to a summit. An alternate trail doesn't rise up that way, and I'll have to try it one day. - Cows graze by an old burned juniper tree in upper Gold Valley
- I pause at the summit of Gold Valley Road to enjoy the views before starting the downhill ahead
That flat land in the distance is Wild Horse Mesa, which I might hike to again later this trip. I'm at 5440 feet elevation here. - Gold Valley Road is rutted and downhill, essentially a perfect bicycle trail with no traffic
It's not very steep, but there are a few navigational challenges due to the worn-out nature of the old road. I've already dropped 400 feet elevation since passing the summit a mile ago. - I take a break when I reach the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Centre, which is closed during the hot months except on Saturday
I recharge my cell phone using the outdoor plug and fill up on cool water. I meet a couple from LA, also camping at Mid Hills and we decide to meet later at the campground to chat more (but we never do hook up). - I decide to go for a short ride over to the Rustler Canyon area and explore a few roads I've not taken before
I pass a few Range ratany bushes still in full flower with their muted magenta blooms. - Gold Valley bicycle route
27 bicycle miles and about 2200 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of Gold Valley bicycle ride
27 bicycle miles and about 2200 feet of elevation gain. - The views from here are excellent, and I can almost see down to the old Route 66 area from here
Route 66 is not all that far away; maybe I should go for a ride down that way while I'm out here. I haven't been down there in several years. - The 13-mile ride back to Mid Hills Campground up Black Canyon Road starts on pavement
I'll rise from about 3600 feet to about 5600 feet, a moderate grade. Best of all, I seem to have a tailwind behind me to help me along. - After about 3.5 miles, the pavement goes away; Black Canyon Road turns to dirt on the way back to Mid Hills Campground
...but I still have that nice tailwind pushing me up the slow grade. - Twin Buttes and Table Mountain: I've ridden past them many times around sunset while camping at Mid Hills Campground
I've been looking at these landmarks for years, yet haven't visited them. Maybe in a few days' time... - A motor vehicle pulls over while I'm taking photos by a big, old corral in the Gold Valley Ranch area: I meet Russ
He recognizes me from this web site. It's always good to chat with fellow Mojave fans. His party is on their way back to a campsite in the New York Mountains, and they give me a couple of oranges before leaving. Thanks! - The sun starts to go down as Black Canyon Road winds its way through the pass
I guess I'm early this evening: I've been in this pass several times over the years after dark, on the way back to Mid Hills Campground. I don't see any other vehicles on the road after Russ' vehicle. - It gets dark just as I approach Wild Horse Canyon Road for the final couple of miles back up to Mid Hills Campground
It's also getting chilly, which feels weird after so much heat recently. I need my sweater, long pants and jacket during the evening, and wear long underwear and sweater to bed! No flies, no ants, and a quiet evening at the nearly empty campground. I noticed people wearing heavy jackets huddled around a campfire for warmth at one of the few occupied sites. Supper is Backpacker's Pantry Chicken Vindaloo, yum again and I finish the end of a bag of Vietnamese spicy beef jerky. I don't sleep well tonight due to the sudden cold air. - I climb up a couple of hills near Grass Canyon at a leisurely pace, with no specific goal in mind
Perhaps I'll do a day hike in one of these canyons before this trip is over. There are things to see around here. - Lots of barrel cacti grow here in the hills near Rustler Canyon and Grass Canyon
They seem to love this dark volcanic rock that gets so hot in the sun. - Lots of wind up here on Campground Peak North, overlooking Mid Hills campground, nice sunset
I have cell-phone reception up here, so I check my messages, but can barely hear them due to the wind! I walk back down the hill and have another Mountain House Meal: Teriyaki Chicken with rice. A few people are partying up at the north end of the campground, but my area is quiet. The evening cools down, but remains comfortable. There are few flies here this evening. I get to sleep around midnight, but don't sleep as well as hoped. - On the way over to North Campground Peak is another juniper tree that survived the 2005 brush fires here
I walk up the hill to the summit to check out the views and the possible cell-phone signal. - On South Campground Peak, Mid Hills Campground, I discover a couple of juniper trees that survived the 2005 brush fires here
I also find an installation (a weather station?) in between the hills, which may be the source of mysterious loud noises I've heard when camping here during high winds. It's rather windy up here now too, even though not so much down at the campground. - Just before sunset, I go for a short hike up to 'Campground Peaks' just east of Mid Hills Campground
I've camped here at Mid Hills Campground many times, but I never bothered to walk up these hills east of the campground. Today is the perfect occasion to do it, the sunset should be nice from up there. - A nicely placed picnic table by a juniper tree makes for a semi-shady brunch at Mid Hills Campground
I add boiling water to a bag of Mountain House New Orleans Rice with Shrimp and Ham (tasty). Bag says it serves two, but it only serves one of me. I spend the afternoon relaxing, catching up with writing notes in my journal and practicing some language lessons that I brought along. - I go for a short walk around Mid Hills campground and notice there are still a few flowers blooming, such as this Desert mallow
For the first time on this trip, morning is pleasantly warm, but not hot. I make coffee before going on my short walk. Due to the cooler air, I could sleep in until 10h this morning, which I really needed. - I think this is a kind of fleabane growing by the road at Mid Hills Campground
It looks so lush in this dry environment. - Turpentine broom in the foreground, Banana yuccas in the middle, and Antelope brush behind that
... and lots of burned pinon pines and junipers, of course. - Several types of yellow flowers grow in the Mid Hills campground area and a few of them are still blooming today
I think these are groundsels (Senecio). - My campsite at Mid Hills Campground is the one with no motor vehicle parked out front
I chose this campsite last night because it's somewhat sheltered from the wind (and it was windy for a while last night). I often choose one of the more popular campsites at the north end of the campground with better views (and more wind). - Campground Peaks hiking route (in blue)
1.5 hiking miles, 500 feet elevation gain. - Campground Peaks hiking route elevation profile
1.5 hiking miles, 500 feet elevation gain. - Nice sunset (belt of Venus) on the way up the Black Canyon Cut-off Road: my final 5 uphill miles of the day will be in the dark
I feel beaten down the last few miles before Mid Hills Campground (as usual!), but riding in the dark means less heat. The campground is almost empty. Like. I don't feel like eating, but make Mountain House Teriyaki Chicken and Rice a bit before midnight. I wash off several days worth of salt and sunscreen from my face and arms under the campground taps, how nice. I fall asleep easily, but am up at 4h30 to urinate, despite wanting to stay in bed! - Riding (and walking the 10-ton bike) up the Black Canyon Cut-off Road as the sun goes down
A few desert mallow flowers are blooming. Sometimes there are thousands of these orange flowers here. I like this short-cut road, only .75 miles long, excellent for mountain bikes. - Dead coyote on Cedar Canyon Road, Mojave National Preserve
The short, steep climb out of Watson Wash was tiring, and now I'm riding slowly uphill into a fierce headwind, so the dead coyote gives a good excuse to take a short break. - The 10-ton bicycle rides down New York Mountains Road alongside Watson Wash toward Cedar Canyon Road
I quickly drop down about 400 feet to join Cedar Canyon Road. Nice to have some downhill, but loose sand on the road requires that I pay close attention in order to not slip and lose control. - A gentle downhill begins as I start crossing the Watson Wash area on New York Mountains Road, Mojave National Preserve
I still have about 15 miles to go and will drop down to about 4800 feet before climbing back up to 5600 at Mid Hills Campground. - I arrive at the junction of New York Mountains Road and Carruthers Canyon, the first of two summits today
There's a hint of a cool breeze up here at 5500 feet, unbelievable after the past few hot days. I've risen almost 1000 feet since I left Ivanpah Road a while back, but it doesn't seem like it because the grade is fairly gradual, and the trip so enjoyable. - Riding (and walking the 10-ton bike) up the Sagamore Cut-off Road, looking for shade under a Joshua tree
Time for an energy-bar break. The heat is still killing my appetite, so I might not be able to eat it all, but I'll eat as much of it as I can. - Video snippet of riding the 10-ton bike through the Joshua tree forest on the Sagamore Cut-Off Road
It's tricky trying to ride the ungainly 10-ton bike with one hand on a camera, and only one hand on the handlebars. Youtube adjustments to the video to reduce shakiness produce interesting effects at times. - The 10-ton bicycle leaves Ivanpah Road for the Sagamore Cut-off Road
I rode this peaceful 5-mile road through the Joshua-tree forest last year and am looking forward to doing it again. - 1.5 downhill miles on the old Mail Spring Road, then 3.5 miles down Ivanpah Rd into the Lanfair Valley
I rapidly lose a few hundred feet of elevation as I ride down Ivanpah Road, but due to the bumpy, washboarded road, I ride almost as slowly as if I were riding uphill. A bit sweaty even on the downhill! - I make a last-minute decision to leave Mail Spring and ride to Mid Hills campground today (I was going to stay here another day)
I pack up and leave around 13h15. A breeze this morning kept the tent a bit cooler this morning, so I managed to sleep in until 9h30. Really needed the sleep, but it's still hot enough that I can't eat much. - Bicycle route: Mail Spring to Mid Hills Campground via New York Mountains Road
27.4 bicycle miles and about 1800 feet elevation gain. - Bicycle route: Mail Spring to Mid Hills Campground via New York Mountains Road
27.4 bicycle miles and about 1800 feet elevation gain. - Way off in the distance, I can see flat-topped Table Mountain, which I'll pass later on the way to Mid Hills campground
The road rolls up and down across drainage areas. I like this kind of terrain for mountain-biking. - An hour goes by, and I'm still riding, and pushing, the bike up the Sagamore Cut-off Road
I still haven't seen any people yet today (nor yesterday, nor the day before). Occasionally, there's a bit of shade to provide a spot for a brief rest. - Postcard view of the New York Mountains while mountain-biking through the Carruthers Canyon area
There are many nice campsites in this area; I'd consider camping here tonight if I were carrying more water. I'm tired already! - I make a quick stop along Ivanpah Road to climb up onto an old railway grade that is marked as a road on some maps
It's hard to tell this is a an old railway grade extending into the distance because it's so grown in. - Beautiful silence: sunset near Mail Spring, another hot day comes to an end
Beautiful silence: sunset near Mail Spring, another hot day comes to an end I make supper after dark, instant Mountain House Rice with Chicken, yum. A pleasant, warm evening, but my drinking water stays warm too, blech. Sometimes I can hear distant passing trains miles way on the Kelso line. I spend some time staring at the thousands of stars in the moonless sky and get to bed around midnight, but don't sleep really well, again. - I hike across the New York Mountains foothills back to my tent, slowly, to preserve energy, Mojave National Preserve
I'm taking a lot of short breaks, due to the heat, and enjoy occasional gusts of hot wind. I startle a few jackrabbits and birds on my way back to the tent. I can't drink as much water as I need because of heatsickness, but I'll recover after sunset. - On the way back down Keystone Canyon, I notice a few Scarlet gilias blooming
Stopping to look at them is a good excuse to profit from a bit of shade and put down "the baby" (the full 10-litre water bag in my arms) for a few minutes. - I filter water again at Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve
It's hot in the sun, but nice to sit down and listen to the quiet and sounds at the spring. I haven't seen another person for a couple of days. - Arriving Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve: water!
A bird (hawk?) flies away as I arrive, just like yesterday. Same bird? - Hiking up the hill toward Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I walk up Keystone Canyon and up the hill to the spring, slowly and relaxed, to keep from overheating in the hot afternoon (90+F). - Taking a break in the shade in Keystone Canyon, Mojave National Preserve.
I stopped for a break here during yesterday's hike too. Nice camping spot with a little shade just before the road gets so rough that most of us would consider it to end here. - Pineapple cacti on the New York Mountains foothills, Mojave National Preserve
My brand-new Canon camera is malfunctioning, and will now usually only record videos rather than still photos, so I'm experimenting with shooting video on the camera. - Elevation profile of hiking route: Mail Spring, Lecyr Spring and Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve
9.7 hiking miles and about 1200 feet of elevation gain. - Hiking route: Mail Spring, Lecyr Spring and Keystone Spring, Mojave National Preserve
9.7 hiking miles and about 1200 feet of elevation gain. - Despite today's hot weather in the 90s (F), the Lecyr Spring canyon looks rather green
I should come back here some time during the wet season to see how much water is here. - Lots of hiking possibilities on steep, scenic hillsides around Lecyr Spring
This area is on my list for a future visit. - While walking across the plain between Lecyr Spring and Keystone Canyon, I take a break under one of the big juniper trees
In today's midday heat in the 90s (F), I feel like I'm starting to fade already. Every short break in the shade helps! - An old rock wall sits above Lecyr Spring
What did this wall once enclose, long ago? - If you don't look closely while walking by, you might not even notice the old rock wall above Lecyr Spring
- A former alignment of the old road has turned into a drainage gulley over the years, so a new road was built to the right of it
- I arrive at a spot I'll call the Lecyr Overlook; my original plan was to hike down the canyon ahead
Hiking down that way, I'd eventually arrive at the dry Slaughterhouse Spring area. However, due to the hot weather, I have to get more water today, and Keystone Spring, in the opposite direction, is my only sure source. - The views down Lecyr Canyon toward Ivanpah Valley are quite nice, with the Ivanpah and Clark Mountains in the background
A hot wind is blowing here. I take a short break to enjoy the views and send a couple of text messages, since I have a (weak) cell-phone signal here. - Pinon pines, low banana yuccas and junipers grow in this area overlooking the Ivanpah Valley
I wish I could keep walking down this canyon, but water needs come first! I must turn back and hike to Keystone Spring. There may be some water down below at Bathtub Spring today, but I don't know for sure. - I turn around to start my hike over to check out Lecyr Spring, and zoom in on the New York Mountains
High up on the hill above the mouth of Keystone Canyon is an old open-pit mine that I haven't visited yet. - An old road rises slowly toward Lecyr Spring
I'm following it, perfect hiking trail. Mojave National Preserve is full of these. - I'm just high enough now to have an expansive view across upper Lanfair Valley to the Castle Mountains
The Trio Mine tailings pile, where I was a little while ago, is prominent in the middleground. - From here, I can also see beyond the hills to Ivanpah Dry Lake
Primm, where I started this trip, is at the far end of that "lake." One of the great things about travelling by human power is getting views of the distances covered. - Lecyr Spring should be just down there in that little canyon
The "man and woman" rock pile on the hillside is an interesting visual. - I push through a few baccharis bushes, enjoying the shade of a pinyon pine, on my way to Lecyr Spring
Of course, I'm also watching for snakes in this shady area on a hot day! Many quail flutter off noisily when they hear me coming. - Lecyr Spring, Mojave National Preserve
Hardly any water here, and it doesn't appear to be flowing right now, even though it looks fairly clean. If I were to filter water here, there wouldn't be any left afterwards! Onward I go to Keystone Spring. - A few grey Range ratany bushes on the Trio Mine tailings pile still sport a few magenta flowers
... and there's a Joshua tree coming up behind it. - I climb up the hill a little further to get a better view of the main Trio Mine tailings pile
- Turquoise veins in rock at Trio Mine, Mojave National Preserve: copper, presumably
- Turquoise-coloured bits in tailings at Trio Mine, Mojave National Preserve