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- Zooming in, I can make out the tidbit of civilization that is Ludlow, California along old Route 66 and I-40
The snow-capped mountains in the distant background remind me that this is the beginning of winter in the desert. It was close to freezing last night here in the lower, warmer parts of the desert. - Zooming in really hard, I can see some of the rock turrets at Eagle Rocks, not far from tonight's home at Mid Hills campground
Wild Horse Canyon Road, my bicycle route home tonight, is visible at the right. - Yup, it's a stream
And there's even green grass here too. I'm almost surprised to find water here because some otherwise decent maps don't show Butcher Knife Spring here. - Yuccas in Woods Wash near the exposed rock
The heat radiating from all the rock here, coupled with the lack of a breeze in this sheltered wash, is starting to get to me. - Yucca spines
Woods Wash, Mojave National Preserve. - Yucca in Woods Wash, plus some bonus carvings
- You could crawl through this rock igloo near Cave Spring
- You can't see it here, but there's a thin layer of water on the ground under all the grass
It's strange to walk through this because one can't see how much water is actually on the ground. The next footstep might be on a firm surface, or you might sink into mud or water. - Yet more neato rock layering effects
Chocolate marble layer cake, anyone? - Chocolate marble layer cake, anyone? - Yesterday, to get out here, I boarded the Amtrak train in Stockton, followed by an Amtrak bus to Primm, NV in the Mojave Desert
The 10-ton bike is happy to be traveling again, and I meet bicyclist Dan on the train, whom I met last year on this train as well. Small world and good times! - Yesterday, I took the Amtrak San Joaquin train with my bicycle down California's Central Valley
Many Amtrak trains do not accept unboxed bicycles, but this one does, and it even has a nice rack. This makes a bicycle trip so convenient. - Yesterday, I boarded the Amtrak train with the 10-ton bike at Stockton, California, after a short Amtrak bus ride from San José
My large rear saddlebags get checked in as baggage here, while my bicycle rolls into the San Joaquin train and sits in a nice bicycle rack during the trip. Many Amtrak trains do not accept unboxed bicycles, but this route does. - Yesterday, after an Amtrak bus ride from San José, an Amtrak train picked me up in Stockton, California
This is Amtrak's San Joaquin route, and you can bring your bicycle aboard (not all Amtrak trains accept unboxed bicycles). - Yesterday morning I left San José and took Amtrak train and bus to Baker, California to start the trip
After a short ride to the train station from home in downtown San José on the 10-ton bike, I spent 11 hours on the Amtrak train and bus combination to get to Baker, gateway to Mojave National Preserve. - Yesterday morning I left home and rode to the San José Amtrak station for my rides to Baker, California
An Amtrak bus takes me from San José to Stockton, the Amtrak San Joaquin train takes me from Stockton to Bakersfield, then an Amtrak bus headed for Las Vegas takes me from Bakersfield to Baker, California, gateway to Mojave National Preserve. - Yes, that should be the stream from Cornfield Spring, that green patch right there
I can hear it! I had been expecting a semi-developed spring here with few challenges; the challenge of getting to the water has proven to be a fun exercise. - Yes, Cave Spring, Mojave National Preserve, just ahead
Will there be water here? - Yep, it's getting darker by the minute
It is a race against time now (again) and it will be dark by the time I get back to Kelso Dunes. The high tips of the Providence Mountains still exhibit traces of the pink light of sunset. - Yellow Eriophyllum wallacei flowers are scattered intermittently in this Castle Peaks wash
I often mistake these for goldfields flowers. - Yellow early-sunset glow in the Cady Mountains, on the other side of Broadwell Dry Lake
I'll move my campsite to somewhere over there a bit beyond Broadwell Dry Lake tomorrow. - Yellow desert marigolds decorate the shoulders of Nevada 164 east of Crescent Peak
The climb up the hill is really enjoyable; slow, but not strenuous, with minimal traffic and a cool breeze today. - Yellow desert marigolds and purple desert four o'clocks grow by this juniper near Indian Spring, New York Mountains
A few phacelias are hidden in the juniper's shade. - Yellow creosote bush flowers, barbed wire, Ivanpah Dry Lake, and that white peak in the distance
I'm over eight miles away from Nipton now, and have risen just enough (400 feet) to have a good view across Ivanpah Valley. Elevation here is 3400 feet. - Yellow and peach cactus flowers next to the small pink blooms of range ratany, adjacent Wee Thump Wilderness, Nevada
A small piece of a joshua tree lays on the ground at the upper-right. - Wry Canyon smiles back at me, Death Valley National Park.
- Wow, this must be the most shot-up thing I've ever come across!
I like how people have brought additional items here, such as the sheet of plywood and a window pane. - Wow, there's a trickle of water here at Indian Springs
I thought this would be a dry spring, so I'm pleasantly surprised. - Wow, I've really overslept this morning, just woke up at 11h30 after a rather sleepless (and cold, low 20s) night
I fell asleep before midnight, but two vehicles drove up the road past my tent to the Old Dominion Mine site at 1h15. I couldn't get back to sleep after that until around 5h. They're still there this morning (white blot on ridge at upper left). - Wow, I've never seen all of Gold Valley like this before...
... and I can see Woods Wash Road heading over toward the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Centre. - Wow, I can now see across Gold Valley to the Hole-in-the-Wall area where I hiked yesterday
I love these perspectives where I can build a visual map in my head of places that I've visited, and those that I haven't yet. - Woohoo, the fire is starting to burn!
Some of the old newspaper left here was a bit moist and looked like it might not burn enough to get the fire going. - Woods Wash Valley Road continues through remote territory
...but it doesn't feel as remote as it might due to the presence of so many cattle. - Woods Wash Road makes a two-mile U-shaped detour around the government property
Here, the road runs eastward along an old fence with Twin Buttes in the background. - Woods Wash Road is visible in this view from the side of Table Mountain
- Woo hoo, I've made it back to Henry Coe Headquarters and my week spent in the Park comes to an end
I go inside and have a good chat with the folks on duty and consume a couple of cans of Coke, which I only drink on bikepacking trips (toward the end). Though it's cooler today, it's still 90 degrees, so there aren't many people here in the "busy" part of the Park. I rinse my sweaty head and fill up with cold water before leaving. - Within 15 minutes, the sun has dipped enough that my upland valley here is largely shaded
I'm chasing sunlight now! I'll turn left (southeast) in a moment, then climb one last hill before the final short descent down to camp... - With Wild Horse Mesa in the backgound, I spot an oversized and eroded old tire along Woods Wash Road
This obviously belonged to something bigger than a passenger car. - With the setting sun in my eyes, I ride more quickly than usual down Kelso Dunes Road because the surface has just been graded
I've never seen Kelso Dunes Road so smooth; it's usually quite washboarded with a bit of surface sand. It is slightly downhill, but due to the bad surface, I never come close to reaching 20 miles per hour like today. - With the Button Mountain road 100 feet from my tent, I watch a nice sunset through the joshua trees toward the Cow Cove area
The joshua tree forest here is not as dense as higher up on Cima Dome, but is plenty scenic. I'm surprised by the lack of insects here tonight; they usually make their presence known at sunset. - With sunset completed, it's time to boil water for tonight's instant meal and settle in for the evening
Supper is Backpacker's Pantry Chicken Cashew Curry. Good but not great. - With sunset at Mail Spring comes a bit of relief from the day's heat, followed by thousands of stars in a moonless sky
After dark, I make Backpacker's Pantry just-add-boiling-water Beef and Broccoli Stir Fry, yummy. My hot drinking water eventually cools down to a more drinkable temperature. Quiet except for a burst of noise that sounds like an owl catching a rodent and a few gusts of wind. - With sunset approaching in half an hour or so, I'm starting to cast nice long shadows on the edge of Broadwell Dry Lake
The rugged Bristol Mountains stare back at me from the other side of Broadwell Dry Lake. I hiked over that way twice during last fall's trip and this is the ideal time of day to be riding along the dry lake. - With so few flowers in bloom, I'm happy to find a few Encelias (brittlebrush) flowering on the Barber Mountain Loop Trail
- With relatively few wildflowers along Ivanpah Road, this little garden against a New York Mountains backdrop gets my attention
Pink Palmer's penstemon, an orange Desert mallow and a yellow Desert marigold. - With Pachalka Spring's greenery behind me, I walk back to my bike and look for a spot to set up my tent
I notice an elderberry tree down in the wash, which I didn't know grows in the Mojave Desert (I have one in my backyard). Then I scare a bunch of quail and two small black-throated black-tailed birds on the way up the hill. I set up my tent in a decent clearing along Pachalka Spring Road, presuming that there won't be any significant traffic passing by while I camp here for a couple of days. - With no set destination, I start walking up the wash past Indian Springs and notice some intriguing rock layers
I liked what I saw in this wash when I arrived here at the end of yesterday afternoon, so I'm excited to be exploring a bit further. - I liked what I saw in this wash when I arrived here at the end of yesterday afternoon, so I'm excited to be exploring a bit further. - With much downhill to come, I look back up at the distance I've already dropped down.
With much downhill to come, I look back up at the distance I've already dropped down. - With Kelso well-behind me now at the bottom of the hill, the heat of the day is catching up with me a bit
I'm guessing that temperatures are in the low 80s right now, so I'm working up a bit of a sweat. I still have the strong wind behind me, so I'm pedalling heartily in my second chain-ring as if I'm not heading uphill at all; usually I've climbed this in my lower chain-ring. It hasn't helped that I didn't drink enough water during the earlier part of the day. - With assistance from my Delorme GPS, I locate the old road that I'm hoping to follow; it's nearly invisible!
Can you see it straight ahead? I can't. I keep checking my GPS to make sure this is it, and it is. This road hasn't been used at all in a very long time, which is not a good sign. I try riding it anyway. - With an hour of daylight left, I walk up to the end of Indian Springs Road to explore a little
Indian Springs Road ends at those little posts that are Wilderness-boundary markers beyond which travel by mechanized means such as motor vehicles or bicycles is prohibited. - With a bit of sadness, I pack up and leave my Cima Dome campsite to mark the last day of this Mojave National Preserve trip
Breakfast is the usual: two cups of strong coffee, granola, tamari almonds and chili-lime cashews. Packing up is intentionally slow on this nice quiet morning because I want to stay longer. I leave at noon. As I reach the pavement of Cima Road, a camper vehicle pulls in and claims the closest campsite to the road: the first humans I've seen in 24 hours. - Winters Peak, Death Valley National Park
- Windmill near the junction of upper Wild Horse Canyon Road and Black Canyon Road, Mojave National Preserve
There is a lot of private property in this area and it looks like this windmill might still be in use. - Windbreak
- Wind blows rocks to the other side of the dry lake
- Willows and mini dry waterfalls in the canyon
I push through the willows and arrive at another small dry waterfall. I can make it up this one too. - Willow Wash, where I'll be hiking in a while, is in front of that hill in the middle ground
I'm intrigued by the badlands between there and here on Bathtub Spring Peak. The badlands, like the peak here, are probably rarely visited. - Willow Spring itself
I made it, finally, to Willow Spring. I'm almost out of water, so I stop here to filter some of the spring water that is piped into the bin here. The end of my water purifier picks up some green slimy stuff from the water, but I wipe it off and ignore it. - Willow Ridge Trail rises out of the poison oak forest to a more meadowy area.
Willow Ridge Trail slowly snakes upward out of the woods to a more open area where the sun is hotter, but there's a bit of a nice, refreshing breeze here. - Willow Ridge Trail rises out of Los Cruzeros
I stare up at the narrow Willow Ridge Trail which climbs out of the valley here and is my route today over the mountains. - Willow Ridge Road, lots of steep ups and downs as it rides on the ridge top. I have to drag the bike up some of the steep hills
Willow Ridge Road, lots of steep ups and downs as it rides on the ridge top. I have to drag the bike up some of the steep hills, but sometimes I can get enough speed going down one hill to propel me to the top of the next one, or most of the way at least. - Will I get clean at Pacheco Camp?
I'm really dirty from my crash on Orestimba Creek Road a couple of hours ago, so that shower building sure looks enticing. Actually, the real reason that I want a shower is because I haven't had one six days. Given the 90+ degree temperatures this week, a significant residue of grime, sweat, salt and sunscreen wants to be washed off! But first, I should unpack the bike and set up the tent (or maybe that's not important right now). - Wildflowers, Willson Peak. Henry Coe State Park, April 15, 2017
- Wildflowers, Willson Peak. Henry Coe State Park, April 15, 2017
- Wilderness markers delineate the end of the old road for cars and bicycles
Hikers can proceed further, of course. I've recorded a couple of possible routes on my GPS for my hike up into the New York Mountains hills ahead. It's time to decide which route I'm taking! - Wildcat Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I walk around a bend, startle another covey of quail, and here is Wildcat Spring. It looks dry. - Wildcat Spring is not completely dry, yet, upon further inspection
A small trickle of water and a lot of mud here host many flies, but my guess is that Wildcat Spring will be dry within a month or so. If I weren't carrying water, I could dig a hole to allow water to accumulate and then filter it. - Wild pigs on Paradise Flat along Red Creek Road.
Surprisingly, these are the first wild pigs I've seen on this trip. There are a lot of these in the Park, so there is a chance of seeing them often, not just once or twice. - Wild pigs
- Wild Horse Mesa, the target of today's hike, is the flat-topped formation ahead
I encounter only one vehicle on Wild Horse Canyon Road this morning: this parked cattle truck. The Bluejay Mine Road that I'm looking for today will be behind the low hill straight ahead and in front of Wild Horse Mesa. - Wild Horse Mesa, Mojave National Preserve; I enjoy the views from the summit at about 5600 feet
I take an energy-bar-and-water break here and look north down toward Bluejay Mine where my bike is parked. From here, a small ribbon of Wild Horse Canyon Road is visible to the right, as is the Clark Mountain range in the distance. - Wild Horse Mesa summit lies just ahead
The last little bit is fairly steep, but the sun keeps hiding behind clouds and cool breezes blow, so I don't overheat as I hike quickly to the top. - Wild Horse Mesa hike route, Mojave National Preserve (Day 5)
The red line represents my bicycle route up Bluejay Mine Road. - Wild Horse Mesa hike profile, Mojave National Preserve (Day 5)
Wild Horse Mesa hike profile. - Wild Horse Canyon Road rolls along as it approaches the Barber Peaks area
I never get tired of this ride. - Wild Horse Canyon Road meanders over the hills
There are plenty of little ups on the way down. - Wild Horse Canyon Road junction, and Mid Hills campground is just two miles away
I'm getting close, but I'm quite pooped. I always feel like this whenever I approach Mid Hills campground. The best part is that I'm at 5275 feet elevation and it's noticeably cooler up here. - Wild Horse Canyon Road is one of my favourite mountain-bike rides in Mojave National Preserve
The Providence Mountains views are always a welcome sight as Wild Horse Canyon Road trickles down through the Mid Hills, mostly at a four-five percent grade. It's occasionally steeper though, and even flat or uphill once in a while. - Wild Horse Canyon Road is always so scenic as it rolls gently downward toward the Providence Mountains
I end up riding this road at some point on most of my Mojave National Preserve trips. It's hard not to: it's a superb mountain biking route. - Wild Horse Canyon Road is all scenic, but I especially enjoy riding down this part with the Providence Mountains in the distance
I'm riding Wild Horse Canyon Road down to Hole-in-the-Wall visitor Centre, where I'll recharge my phone and fill up on water before heading out to the Twin Buttes area for a backcountry campsite. - Wild Horse Canyon Road dips down into the upper part of Macedonia Canyon as I ride back to Mid Hills campground
It's great to have a little downhill on the way uphill! That spot down on the road ahead is a cow, I believe. - Wild Horse Canyon Road continues its twisty-windy descent, which is getting flatter
The washboarded road surface rattles my bones and keeps me from riding too fast. A couple of cows just crossed the road here. - Wild berries (chokecherries?) on the way down Walsh Trail
I don't know if these are edible or not, so I don't touch them, but I enjoy occasionally nibbling on citrus-like manzanita berries here at Henry Coe when I come across them. - Whoever came up with the idea for an outdoor shower at Pacheco Camp deserves a round of applause
To make it work, you bring in the garden hose from the outdoor sink and hook it up to the shower head, and voilà! Even in the heat of summer, the water drawn in from Pacheco Spring is quite cold, and I can only stand under it for a few seconds at a time. But it's so refreshing... - White thistle in Cedar Wash on the way to Pinto Mountain, Mojave National Preserve
I'm looking for a drainage area ahead on my right that should lead me up to Pinto Mountain without too much slip-sliding steepness. - White thistle growing in Woods Wash
A few white buckwheat flowers bloom around the base of the thistle. - White Tank Spring, Henry Coe State Park
Presumably, this rusty old water tank holds water from the spring. - White Tank Spring, Henry Coe State Park
The water in the spring tub is algae-rich and the spring is not flowing right now. - White primroses and orange desert-mallow flowers along Keystone Canyon Road
I listen to the sound of my footsteps as I walk, one of the few sounds here, other than the occasional flitting of a bird. - White drapery
- White buckwheat flowers in Macedonia Canyon valley
I walk over a couple of low hills and then down toward the cabin in Macedonia Canyon. The dark clouds linger, but they haven't produced any rain since I left my campsite at Mid Hills campground. - While walking the mile up Red Creek toward Paradise Lake, it occurs to me that something here has changed since last year...
It's not apparent at first glance, but the brush fire here a year ago demolished a ceanothus grove that provided a bit of shade on the road. The small green plants are probably post-fire shrub regrowth. - While walking down Mail Spring Road, I recall good memories of last year's hikes in the distant hills
The high hills at center-left are the Bathtub Spring Peaks and the jagged hills at right are the Castle Peaks. - While walking around, I notice a lot of these small animal burrows around my campsite
I'm guessing it might be the small Mojave squirrels that live in these holes; I don't know, and I haven't seen any yet. I was careful not to set up my tent on top of any of these holes! Maybe kit foxes use these holes. - While walking across the plain between Lecyr Spring and Keystone Canyon, I take a break under one of the big juniper trees
In today's midday heat in the 90s (F), I feel like I'm starting to fade already. Every short break in the shade helps! - While taking my shade break under the train tracks, I notice a washed-out cattleguard on the old road to the Lucy Gray Mine area
These days, people just drive around the cattleguard, instead of over it! - While sitting here, I ponder the view to my right further up Devil's Playground Wash in Bighorn Basin
A spring on my map (possibly dry right now) a couple of miles up the wash in the left fork would make a good target for further hiking through these appealing hills if I had more time today. - While sipping my coffee, I notice that the water bottles which I left outside last night have quite a bit of ice in them
I guess it was colder last night than I thought. I'll save this bottle of water for later. During my usual hotter weather trips, it would be mighty refreshing, but not right now thanks! The water bottles in my tent had no ice in them this morning. I've been trying to make sure that my water bottles are never completely full at night, just in case the water freezes and expands. - While setting up my tent under the eucalyptus trees just south of the Nipton store, a train rushes past
Nipton was once a train stop on an important cross-desert route. The extreme noise of an occasional train passing a few hundred feet from one's tent is both charming and annoying. But I like it here. - While setting up camp, a pickup truck drives by, not seeing me, and drives up the hill a bit (see the headlights at bottom-left)
I'll find out later that this truck belongs to someone I should know! We've read each other's web sites. Small world! They're really quiet up there and have a campfire later. It turns out that they didn't see the light inside my tent after dark. - While riding through Daggett, I stop to check out the old sign for the now-defunct Sportsmans Club
That nice, frothy mug of beer once had a light bulb poking out of each hole, presumably twinkling after dark. A few bulbs remain. - While riding the I-40 freeway past the military base on the way back to Barstow, my GPS mysteriously crashes
My GPS won't restart until I'm almost past the military base. What's this? The many passing big rigs create strong side winds that, mixed in with the headwind, threaten to pull me out into freeway traffic. Yikes, time for serious focus while riding here! - While pausing to plot a good route down the short steep hill, I notice a small cave in the hillside
Cool! I'll have to walk down and check it out. - While passing a trailer park along Route 66 near Daggett, my eyes notice an unusual mobile home
This mobile home has been stripped down to its simple structure. - While packing up, the tent wants to be a kite; I discover that one of my tent poles has been bent by the wind
Sometimes you can use the wind to your advantage when folding things, if you're careful, an interesting challenge. - While lingering in the shade of the Kelso Depot waiting platform, I chat with a couple on their first visit to the Preserve
I take a few keepsake photos of them (on their camera) and talk briefly about Kelso Depot's former role as housing for crew and as a water stop. People always wonder why such a huge train station would be located in such an empty location. - While in my tent choosing my afternoon ride, the dirt-bike tour group members arrive at Nipton in a cloud of noise
There are a dozen or so dirt-bikers arriving from somewhere and it looks like a lot of fun. However, I'm looking for quiet and hope to avoid them while out on my afternoon ride. So I listen intently while the tour guide explains to the group the route of the next leg of the trip, which will include the old Mojave Road. - While heating water for coffee, I walk around to familiarize myself with my new surroundings
I can zoom in on great views from my campsite across Broadwell Dry Lake and over to the Bristol Mountains in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area. I'll be hiking over that way in a while. - While getting ready for today's hike down to Piute Spring, I have my first and only sighting of humans for the day
A pair of Jeeps ride up the road and stop briefly at the next overlook above Piute Gorge. They're close enough that I see them get out of their vehicles for a few minutes to take in the views, but I don't know if they can see me over at the next overlook. - While filling my bottles, I glance across the road at the Crowbar Café
A group of motorcyclists has stopped at the restaurant. - While eating breakfast in the tent, I study my maps in preparation for today's hike over to Live Oak Spring
I get up shortly after 9h to rather grey skies, which allowed me to sleep in. Breakfast is a typical sampling of items in my black bag (tamari and cajun almonds, dried plums and pears), plus hot tea and blueberry electrolyte-replacer drink. - While climbing up the rocky hillside, I plow through a spider web by accident and have to brush this unusual spider off me
I don't think I've seen this kind of large spider before. It camouflages with the rocks. I think I also lightly poked my hand with a small cactus needle on the way up the hill and am hoping that I was not bitten by this spider! - While at the Rex Mine headframe, I get out my maps and decide where to go next
It's only 12h30, so I still have a few hours of hiking time ahead of me. - While at the Kelbaker Road summit, I take a look at the power-line road which I could have taken to get here from Cima Road
The segment of the power-line road from Cima Road to here is about 15 miles long, instead of the 31 miles that I rode on the paved roads via Kelso Depot. - While at Cedar Canyon Road junction, I notice an indecisive SUV, so I go speak to its driver; maybe he needs directions
He doesn't need directions, he's just wondering if I need help. I'm walking around with my camera, hoping to look like I'm on break, not stranded. Of course, the concern is always appreciated because breakdowns do happen. - Where am I?
Just as it's getting dark, Eyeball Rock Wash empties out to an open area. I don't see Indian Springs Road anywhere around. I'm glad I brought my flashlight; I may need it. - Just as it's getting dark, Eyeball Rock Wash empties out to an open area. I don't see Indian Springs Road anywhere around. I'm glad I brought my flashlight; I may need it. - When sunset approaches, I walk up a hill near my site at Mid Hills campground to take in the views
The parts of the campground that were denuded by the 2005 brush fires look better under the golden glow of sunset. - When people come down Cedar Canyon Road, here's the sign that they see when they reach the end at Kelso-Cima Road
I'm as rejuvenated as I'm going to be, so I end my short break and begin the next segment of the ride, the 2.4-mile mostly paved climb up Cedar Canyon Road during which I'll rise about 800 feet. - When I think of the Cima Dome area, I think of gorgeous sunsets, and tonight is no exception
Whenever the wind dies down for a moment, I hear crickets singing. A bird whistles so perfectly a few times that it sounds like a human nearby. Aren't I the only human around here right now, except for the occasional passing car on Cima Road? It is a bit chilly tonight. Chilly in the Mojave Desert in June? Yes, because I'm in the desert mountains. I would need to put on my long pants and sweater if I were spending a significant amount of time outside tonight. Spring evenings are beautiful up here at 5000 feet, but it can snow sometimes during the winter months. - When I reach the road to Lecyr Spring, I turn and hike up that way, with the New York Mountains peaks in the background
I haven't been up this road since my second Mojave National Preserve trip back in year 2000. - When I reach the old corral at Howe Spring, I realize that it's completely burned
I was wondering why it looked rather thin from the rocks up above. A dry cistern sits patiently nearby. - When I reach the junction of the north and east forks of Beecher Canyon, I turn left and start walking up the east fork
I know it will be steep as I head up the canyon back toward my bicycle, but I don't know if I will encounter any major obstacles or not. - When I reach the base of the higher hill ahead overlooking Ivanpah Valley, it doesn't look like it will be as steep as expected
Onward and upward I go to the top of that hill ahead. Energy kicks in. Is it the energy bar I just ate? - When I reach Macedonia Spring, I dont find any water at all
Not even a little bit of moisture, despite the greenery here. I saw a deer and two jackrabbits, one with a white fluffy tail, on the way here. I walk up the drainage area anyway just in case there's water that I've missed. - When I reach Cedar Canyon Road, I stop to check my GPS for directions
I'm either just east or just west of Death Valley Mine Road (marked Cima Road on some maps), which is my next "trail." Cima Dome, that gentle curve on the horizon, is a prominent feature in views from this area. - When I reach a patch of mature, unburned sagebrush, I turn east (left) and begin hiking cross-country to Mid Hills campground
The sagebrush is delightfully fragrant as I brush against it. The old road here sports plenty of footprints, but, surprisingly, no fresh tire tracks. - When I hiked here last year, I dropped down into Beecher Canyon, below at left; but not this time
Today, I have more time, so I'm staying on the saddle here and heading up to the pile of rocks on the hill ahead, after which I'll hike down into Globe Canyon. - When I arrived here at Indian Spring, a flurry of doves took flight and left; this one watches me from a nearby branch
The dove seems to realize that it's being watched and flies away shortly after this photo is taken. - When Crucero Road reaches Broadwell Dry Lake, it forks to make two separate northbound roads
The straight-ahead road follows the old railway grade that goes down the middle of the lake, while the left road skirts around the lake. I follow the left road around the lake. - Wheeeeee, Morning Star Mine Road descends into the Ivanpah Valley and the haze of the day
The road drops from 4300 feet to 2750 feet over about 11 miles. It's not especially steep, but the downhill is long, sustained, and is great fun to ride down. It seems to go on forever. - Wheee, here we go riding straight ahead the 4.5-mile length of Broadwell Dry Lake!
I decide to avoid the old gravelly railway grade that passes down the middle of Broadwell Dry Lake, and ride on the solid lake surface. It's pretty smooth for the most part. - Whatever this was, there's practically no mortar left at all between the stones
It doesn't really look big enough to have been a cabin, unless it was just one room. - What's that red speck poking out of that boulder?
I think I get a little closer to find out... - What's more scenic than a tent in a Mojave Desert sunset?
The prettiness of the view makes up for the fact that I still feel only 80% recovered from the slight heat sickness I developed yesterday in getting here. - What's left of the old road is slowly starting to slide down the hill and return to nature
Just ahead is a small rock retaining wall designed to keep the road from washing away where it crosses a drainage area. - What could this old sign be out here in the middle of nowhere by Broadwell Dry Lake?
Like most signs in the desert, this one has been shot at many times. - Westward on Route 66 I go, crossing under the I-40 freeway and leaving Newberry Springs
I have a long freight train beside me as company for a short while on this empty stretch of Route 66. - Western tanager
- West New York Mountains Road, heading toward the east end of Pinto Mountain
I pass a few solar panels that must belong to someone or something. - West Edgar Canyon #3 makes a tight left turn just ahead, and continues to rise into the Providence Mountains
With more daylight hours, I'd keep on going; the best part might be just around the corner, who knows. According to my maps, I'm probably only half, or two-thirds, of the way up the walkable canyon. I should come back when the days are longer. - West Edgar Canyon #3 is, as you might expect, full of rocks, big and small
I wish I had time to explore "West Edgar Canyon #2," but this one looks interesting enough. "Avoidance hiking" is the rule here, choosing the best rocks and sandy areas to walk on, while avoiding larger and rounder rocks. - West Edgar Canyon #3 gets narrower and passes through some deep shade
At this point in the canyon, the rocks to hop over or avoid are larger than they were down below. - Well... part of the Center Flats Road ahead is somewhat flat
I guess that's as flat as it gets in most of Henry Coe State Park. - Well, well, there turns out to be a series of big rollers here on the way down. I've just come down the first.
Actually, I walked the bike most of the way down this hill because the gravel was slippery and I didn't want to risk losing control. - Well, this is it: Government Holes, Mojave National Preserve
A water tank, a corral, an old cottonwood tree and a history story about a shoot-out here 100 years or so ago. The funny thing is that there's a modern plastic water reservoir hiding inside that metal cistern. - Well, this is as close as I've ever been to Lobo Point, Mojave National Preserve, that outcrop in front of me
Usually I just see it off to the side while riding down Wild Horse Canyon Road, contributing to the great scenery. Future potential backcountry camping area! - Well, this is about as far up Saddle Horse Canyon as I'll go; I want to be riding up Wild Horse Canyon Road around sunset
I'd like to continue all the way up to the top of Saddle Horse Canyon, only a mile further, where it reaches Wild Horse Mesa. That would also be an interesting place to be at sunset. - Well, there's Primm, Nevada just ahead; I guess this year's trip is officially over
The paradox is that I'm happy to be approaching my destination for the day, with some much-needed relaxation ahead tonight, but this casino-wasteland freeway off-ramp shopping mall with cookie-cutter chain stores isn't my idea of an interesting place. - Well, there are some water-indicating grasses growing here...
These are the same grasses that were growing around the well in the wash below Tough Nut Mine. - Well, the old sign isn't legible any more
I'm guessing that the sign had something to do with the old Death Valley Mine just up the road here. I'm headed toward the left end of the craggy New York Mountains ahead. - Well, the cistern in this old corral along Cima Road is dry, so I presume the big water tank nearby is empty too
The cistern would still collect water when it rains, hence its rusty bottom, but the corral doesn't look like it's being used any more. The dirt road by the corral leads east to mining areas that I haven't visited yet. - Well, the Cima store might be closed right now, but it's an interesting place to take a break nonetheless
I always enjoy walking around the modest historic building here. - Well, that short downhill was fun! At the bottom of the hill, I reach Los Cruzeros and take a break.
There are several campsites scattered around here, which is usually underwater during the winter months (this is another part of Coyote Creek). There is a little bit of shade here from the oak trees, so I take advantage of it. Another Clif bar, and more water of course. It's definitely a hot day today. I bet it has reached 90 degrees (Fahrenheit). - Well, since I'm at the base of one of the Castle Peaks outcrops, it's time to decide whether to continue upward or not
I want to hike up the hill and around the other side of the pinnacle, but I also want to explore other parts of the plateau area. I can't hike in both directions at once! - Well, my planned hike down this side canyon in the Sleeping Beauty mountains instantly ends when I reach a 10-foot drop-off
Spectacular. It's narrow here, with no obvious way to easily climb down around the drop-off, so I'll turn back and climb over the hills and try a different way back down out of the mountains. - Well, it's time to start heading back down Idora Mine Canyon and back to camp
As my partner would say, "We're burning daylight." I'm carrying a flashlight in my backpack in case I need to hike by moonlight, but hiking by daylight is so much easier. - Well, it looks like almost a mile of this sand lies ahead of me, and it would take some time to push the bike through it all
If I continue, I won't get much further up into the Bristol Mountains before dark. Also, I'll have to push through this sand again on the way back to Broadwell Dry Lake the day after tomorrow. I decide to look for a campsite in the immediate area. - Well, I've just passed through some yellow; now it's time for some purple
After two weeks in the muted colours of the Mojave Desert hills, this purple patch seems so bright. - Well, I've been riding Ivanpah Road for a mile now and am passing the settlement of Barnwell again; so far, so good!
I'm taking advantage of the zero traffic on the road and ride all over the road to avoid the bumpiest, most washboarded parts. - Well, I probably could climb down that way, in front of me, but I decide to check my maps first
I'm not sure why, but I decide to try descending via a canyon on the west side of the Sleeping Beauty hills instead of down the hill in front of me. The unknown sometimes has a certain attraction. - Well, I guess I'll keep looking at Table Mountain and wondering what's up there, since I didn't make it to the top
- Well, I guess I'll drop down into the valley between these Castle Peaks hills and start heading back to my campsite
I always hate to leave the high-elevation point of any hike, but Mojave Desert washes are just as much fun to explore as the high points. - Well, I exit the Wilderness boundary and take a look back at Twin Buttes and Table Mountain before hiking back up Woods Wash Rd
That was fun! - Well, I can't deny any longer that it's about to get dark here on Route 66
I pull over to attach a couple of little red lights to my sleeping-bag bungee cords, since my main seatpost rear flasher is obscured by my sleeping bag. - Well, here's how much water remains at Mail Spring in late spring 2012
It's not enough for me to filter, and it's probably just barely enough for the wild animals that use it, like those deer I saw a few minutes ago. - Well, here's a rock summit at Eagle Rocks that I don't think I can climb
It's fun to look at, however. - Well, here it is, Summit Spring, Mojave National Preserve, a disgusting concentrate of cow shit and water
Usually, I like to linger at a desert spring and enjoy the specialness of moisture in a dry country. But not here at Summit Spring. The scent of the rotting cow shit is sickening in the hot sun and the flies buzzing around it are annoying. - Well, here I am at Indian Spring, New York Mountains, Mojave National Preserve
... not to be confused with the Indian Springs near Kelbaker Road. The water in the trough looks a bit greener than I remember from last year's visit to Indian Spring. Those grasses weren't growing in the trough last year. - Well, after my one-hour delay, I've remounted my saddlebags and have decided to continue on 7 miles more to Keystone Canyon
I'm carrying enough water to last at least through tomorrow should I get stranded. Also, there may be water at Keystone Spring. If my repair starts to fail, I'll turn back or try flagging down a passing car, if there is another one, to get a lift back down to civilization, or to Las Vegas where I can get to a bicycle shop. I've seen several cars on this road today, but I've ridden this road before and know that sometimes there are no cars for hours at a time. - Well after dark, I find a nice campsite along a road near Mail Spring, Mojave National Preserve, and set up for a couple of days
I was hoping to make it further up this road, but too exhausted to go any further. Just happy to be here in the land of junipers and Joshua trees, hot here, but high enough to not be in the hotter area that I passed through below earlier today. - Welcome to Nevada!
The sign says it all. Actually, I won't be in Nevada for long. In a few miles beyond the summit, I'll start the ride up Walking Box Ranch Road, which reenters California, and then Mojave National Preserve. - Welcome to Cedar Canyon Road
At the base of Cedar Canyon Road, one encounters this "cows" sign. It's possible that this sign is just decorative now because some of the ranch lands in the area have been purchased by the National Parks Service and are no longer. - Weigh station at the abandoned Aiken Mine, Mojave National Preserve
An abandoned mobile home sits behind, trying to get shade from a couple of small trees. - Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness: I take a short energy-bar and water break at the turnout along Nevada 164
I must be tired already; I bang my head on the sign while parking my bicycle! McCullough Mountains in the distance. Not today, but maybe on the way back? I put on my sweater and transfer two litres of water from my water bag to my now-empty Camelbak. - Webs
- We're ready to ride the half mile down from the Old Dominion Mine area to Crucero Road
It still bugs me that I couldn't find this road two nights ago, even though I was sometimes on it! - We're almost back at the minivan when we pass one last Desert four o'clock blooming in the sunset
Sarah and Heather, thanks for takinq me along on this hike, it has been great! We drive back to Mid Hills campground on the washboarded roads and all settle in for our final evening there. Supper is Mountain House Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Rice, yummy. We had a good, scenic hike, but it wasn't even 4 miles, so I'm not physically tired for a change. I'll appreciate that when I pack up and leave tomorrow. The strong winds have moved on, so it's incredibly still and quiet here tonight. I love the desert when it's like that. I hear some noise by my tent just before going to sleep, probably a kangaroo rat or a jackrabbit... The heavy chill of recent nights is absent, so my sweater and long underwear in the sleeping bag almost feel too warm. - We're all taking photos of each other; Sarah sits on one of the Teutonia Peak ridges
Clark Mountain is behind Sarah in the distance. I've hiked the lower parts of that area, but not all the way to the top. - We were here
- We turn around for a moment to look back toward Teutonia Peak
The orange sunset casts an almost psychedelic lime-green aspect on this Banana yucca. - We start the climb up Goldbelt Grade to get over Hunter Mountain by dark
To get back to Death Valley, we're going to drive over Hunter Mountain and join Highway 190 a bit west of Panamint Springs. We hope to make it back down to the pavement of Death Valley by dark. Great views of Death Valley below as we climb up away from Goldbelt Spring on the road known as the Goldbelt Grade. Backpackers can take a more direct route down to Death Valley and simply hike down through Marble Canyon from Goldbelt Spring. - We start seeing the occasional Desert four o'clock bush with its intense magenta flowers
We're not too late for these flowers... - We pass through the village of Tecopa before heading on to Tecopa Hot Springs
The two villages are only two miles away from each other, separated by a big hill. This is the view of Tecopa as one arrives from the west on Old Spanish Trail Highway. - We pass another blooming Claret-cup cactus along Teutonia Peak Trail as we descend
There's that patch of junipers again, just ahead. - We find ourselves at the top of the Goldbelt Grade at a time of day when photographers come out
It's that special pre-sunset light that improves so many photographs. We're up at about 6000 feet now and the views toward Death Valley are unexpectedly good from the Goldbelt Grade. Phil and I borrow each other's cameras to get photos of ourselves taken for our collections. - We drive in Sarah's minivan over to the Teutonia Peak trailhead from Mid Hills campground for our end-of-day hike
- We drive 10 miles across Hidden Valley toward Goldbelt Spring
An unusually dense, isolated stand of Mojave yuccas near Goldbelt Spring. While driving across the emptiness of Hidden Valley to get here, we see an object in the middle of the one-lane dirt road ahead. As we get closer, we see that it is a video camera mounted on a tripod. Phil drives around it carefully. Even though there appears to be nobody anywhere out here, we now know that there is someone somewhere! Indeed, a little further down, an SUV appears on the road driving toward us, and his camera. We wave, and its driver looks as surprised to see someone else back here as we are. - We drive 1/2 mile up a short steep road that we pass a couple of miles after Teakettle Junction
This appears to be the road to the old Ubehebe lead mine site. - We come around a bend by Macedonia Canyon Road and start heading uphill; the cows aren't running quite so quickly anymore
And I'm not riding so quickly anymore either. Finally, the cows disperse into the brush and I pass by them as I continue riding along Wild Horse Canyon Road. Should this be called Wild Cow Canyon Road instead? - Way off in the distance, I can see flat-topped Table Mountain, which I'll pass later on the way to Mid Hills campground
The road rolls up and down across drainage areas. I like this kind of terrain for mountain-biking. - Water trickling down the rocks creates a small brook
I wonder if there's always so much water here, of if it's usually dry here at this time of year. We had some extra rain this spring. - Water tank and windmill on Gold Valley Road, Mojave National Preserve
The windmill and water tank here serve the cattle that have been grazing here for decades, if not a century. - Water remains in this tinaja in Bull Canyon from the last rains
I've brought my own water today, since wasn't counting on finding any up here, but I could filter drinking water here if I needed it. - Water has exposed a swirling pattern in the earth and rock layers here
One day, I'll have to witness one of the massive flash floods that create this geology in such a dry landscape. - Water flows down from the mountains
- Warning to me: "Rough Road Next 23 Miles"
Three motorcyclists riding down the road wave at me, and I reciprocate. I've ridden this road on past Mojave National Preserve trips, and it is bumpy and washboarded as the sign suggests, but it's still quite drivable in an ordinary car. - Warm sunshine ahead
- Walsh Trail descends quickly into the Pacheco Creek canyon
Walsh Trail is visible further ahead rising up the slope on the other side of the canyon. - Walsh Trail crosses the dry Pacheco Creek stream bed here
The beginning of the trail up the other side isn't immediately visible, but it should be easy enough to locate. - Wallflower, Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest