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- I'm surprised to find a trough at Pine Spring, overflowing with water of decent quality; a few bees are living on the margins
I was expecting a dry, or semi-dry, spring here, not a developed one. I've brought enough water with me to this area, but it's nice to know that there's more in case of an emergency. - The Pine Spring water trough is inside a corral, which is apparently still in use by cows
However, I haven't seen any cows around here yet. - A bit beyond the Pine Spring corral is an old water trough and a rusty water tank
It appears that a smaller water trough was installed inside the larger one when it rusted out. - I've hiked two miles up Pine Spring Road, which ends here, so I climb a hill to get oriented for the day's off-trail hiking
There is almost a trail here in places, probably an animal trail, but perhaps not. People do visit this area, as told by the fresh tire tracks on the road below. - From this hill above Pine Spring, I see a possible route to the McCullough Mountains ridgeline straight ahead, a bit to the left
This route would probably be fine, but I decide to dip down into a wash at my right to pick up one of the routes that I prerecorded in my GPS. - Out of nowhere, a grasshopper pops into the air and lands nearby
This is one well-camouflaged insect... - A few mariposa lilies are blooming on this hill above Pine Spring
Despite their brilliant color, I rarely notice insects in these flowers. - On the way down to the wash, a patch of ankle-high cacti requires careful avoidance hiking
This is my first desert hike of the year, so I'm still getting reacquainted with the zigzagging hiking style often required in order to avoid the prickly stuff. - I arrive in the sandy wash and prepare to climb the hill on my left, on my way toward one of the McCullough Mountains peaks
I've just lost 275 feet elevation in the half-mile downhill walk to here from that hill above Pine Spring behind me. - Diminutive chia sages grow in the wash here
Though easy to miss while hiking, you know when you've brushed up against these by the rich sage scent that they emit. - Some larger desert sage bushes (probably Salvia dorrii) are also blooming in this wash
It's funny how these plants grow in sand and gravel in order to stay dry, and yet they like these drainage washes that occasionally get very wet for short periods of time. - I take note of this light-pink Mojave Desert native thistle: Cirsium neomexicanum
These flowers are most commonly white in the parts of the Mojave Desert that I visit, but I understand that the pink variety is more common in other areas. This plant is not a nuisance weed like the non-native thistles. - I check my GPS again and begin the climb into the McCullough Mountains, straight up this hill
I think the plant covering most of the hill is blackbrush (Coleogyne ramosissima). It's quite rigid and somewhat thorny, another plant that you want to walk around. - At the top of the blackbrush hill, I turn around for a moment to enjoy the views back down into Piute Valley
I still don't have much energy, but I've made it this far just fine. I'm almost at 5600 feet elevation here, whereas my campsite is down around 4915 feet. - Atop the blackbrush hill, I check out the upward route ahead to the McCullough Mountains ridgeline
The steep parts of some of the hills sometimes hides the less-steep stretches further ahead. - A rock outcrop atop the hill ahead is my next target
It looks like the summit from this viewpoint, but it isn't. - Nice views back down into Piute Valley from the rock outcrop
Elevation here is approximately 5725 feet. - Now that I'm above the rock outcrop, I can see the next hill on my way up the McCullough Mountains
I continue up that hill at left in the photo, toward the ridge in the background. - I walk past some banana yuccas and toward a stand of joshua trees on my way up this next McCullough Mountains hill
I haven't noticed many joshua trees growing at this rather high-elevation area (approx. 5725 feet). - Time for another energy bar, already, on my way up into the McCullough Mountains
I'm looking for excuses to stop and enjoy the views! I'm feeling so lazy today. - A few red penstemons are flowering today in the McCullough Mountains
This is probably a penstemon centranthifolius. - This steep, rocky hillside in the McCullough Mountains provides good footing on the way up
However, sporadic small cacti, easy to miss, require my attention. - A couple of claret-cup cacti are blooming on this McCullough Mountains hillside
These are the first that I've seen today. - Finally, I reach a point from which the remainder of my route uphill is visible, following the rising ridge at centre-left
The high point, toward which I'm headed, is McCullough Mountains unnamed peak 6557. Time to switch into high gear and march onward. - OK, climb up that hill, now!
Finally, a bit of energy is kicking in; perhaps it's the energy bar or just sheer inspiration as I get closer to the McCullough Mountains ridge. I'm at about 6250 feet elevation here. - After climbing that last short steep hill... now the McCullough Mountains peak 6557 is right in front of me
I'm not sweating as much as I would expect, due to the cool winds up here high in the hills. - Almost there... Peak 6557 is that hill ahead to my right
I'm at about 6400 feet elevation here. Walk around that juniper tree, and up I go... - A pile of rocks sits upon McCullough Mountains unnamed peak 6557
I look around in case there is a register to sign. I'm not expecting one (and don't find one), presuming that most hikers would be attracted to the slightly taller McCullough Mountain, 1.3 air miles away. - I sit on McCullough Mountains Peak 6557 for a good 15 minutes and enjoy the views
My cell phone works up here, so I send a couple of text messages and turn the phone off. I've never seen Ivanpah Dry Lake from this viewpoint before. With each new Mojave Desert hike, my visual understanding of the area increases. - Looking to my right, I see the high point of this range, McCullough Mountain, at just over 7000 feet
I originally thought I might have time to hike all the way up there and back in daylight, but I would have needed to start out a bit earlier, or follow a more direct route. - I bet the valley below, between here and the Lucy Gray Mountains in the middleground, would be an interesting place to explore
The wind up here is strong and almost cold. High winds have been forecast for the next few days out here. Aside from the sound of the wind, it's peaceful up here. I haven't seen any people yet today. - Looking way off into the distance, I can see a snow-capped mountain, which I presume is Charleston Peak near Las Vegas
It's cool enough up here on this low peak; the idea of having contact with snow right now doesn't appeal. - I'm hoping to continue hiking along the ridge, but it looks like there may be a drop-off beyond those two junipers
I walk over to check out a possible descent route. - It's quite steep, but I conclude that I should be able to wind my way down the hill safely, and stay on the ridge line
The steepest part near the top has some large rocks that looks like they should provide good support. - Once I get past the crazy, steep and rocky part at the beginning of the short descent, the rest is easy
Looking down makes me think it would be fun to ride the bottom of this hill on a mountain bike. The space between the junipers on the way down is like an old grown-in trail. - Phlox, cacti and pinyon pines on the McCullough Mountains ridge line
The phlox flowers are actually pale pink, but look white here. - I spy an old tree trunk on the McCullough Mountains ridge line
Probably the remains of an elderly juniper. - From this McCullough Mountains saddle, I can still see across the Lucy Gray Mountains to Ivanpah Dry lake and Clark Mountain
The sandy blotches beyond Ivanpah Dry Lake in front of the mountains is the huge Brightsource solar power plant. The north end of Ivanpah Valley is slowly becoming a big industrial park. - This banana yucca in the McCullough Mountains is getting ready to bloom
I think I missed the yucca-flower season in the lower areas, but up here at 6400 feet elevation, the blooms come a bit later. - This McCullough Mountains saddle also has great views eastward down to the Piute Valley
The large flowering bush in the foreground is probably antelope brush (Purshia tridentata). - From the saddle, I look back at McCullough Mountains Peak 6557
Looking back now, I can see why it seemed so steep coming down that hill. - I stop to look at a cactus growing in an unusual horizontal habit, one pad at a time
I carefully step over this one. - Cacti and a few blue phacelia flowers enjoy the shade under this pinyon pine in the McCullough Mountains
Unlike most of this area, this part of the saddle is almost level in places. - I almost missed these claret-cup cacti flowers under an old juniper while walking past
As is the case in most of this area, I'm not hiking in a straight line because I need to avoid trees, cacti and rocks... - The next marked point on my hike today will be McCullough Mountains unnamed peak 6425, the high point just ahead
I'm at about 6375 feet elevation now, and will drop down 50 feet just ahead. After that, it's only a climb of another 100 feet or so, vertically. - On the way up to Peak 6425 in the McCullough Mountains are a few rock piles
I hike around them rather easily. - I've seen this white flower before; I think it's Desert tobacco (Nicotiana obtusifolia)
It's the only one I've seen blooming today. - One last little climb up to McCullough Mountains Peak 6425
An easy climb, compared to the longer steeper stuff earlier today. - From McCullough Mountains Peak 6425, I look back at where I was earlier, on Peak 6557, center
The higher peak further left is probably the one called Peak 6841 on my maps and GPS. One could spend a lot of time hiking the many peaks in the McCullough Range. - McCullough Mountains Peak 6425 also has great views eastward across the Piute Valley
Hmmm... Since I won't have time to hike all the way to the high point of the range, I'll probably hike along the ridge visible at left, and then drop down into the wash below for the return hike to my tent. - I can still see a bit of the Ivanpah Dry Lake area from McCullough Mountains Peak 6425
I take a break here for a few minutes. The denuded juniper carcass in front of me makes me wonder if there was a forest fire here 50 or 100 years ago which burned that tree. - McCullough Mountains Peak 6425 marks a decision point as far as route-following is concerned
From here, I would veer to the left for the hike to the McCullough Mountain summit, or to the right to head back toward camp in the Pine Spring area. At this time of day, I'm opting for the right fork toward Pine Spring. - I'll start the hike back to camp by hiking up the hill at centre-left, then following the ridge down to the hill in the middle
The ridge line will slowly drop down into the valley, but I might climb down into a wash at some point. - This is one of the more scraggly pinyon pines I've come across today in the McCullough Mountains
I wonder if this tree was damaged by fire or some other event at some point in its life? These can apparently live for several hundred years. - About 10 minutes later, I notice a hillside that might make for a good descent down to a wash
Hiking the McCullough Mountains ridge line has been fun, but maybe I should explore a dry stream bed to end the hike. - I climb carefully down the steep hill, past the bunch grasses, blackbrush, and the occasional banana yucca
Weird photo: it may appear that I'm looking up at a hill, but I'm actually looking down into a gully. - I start hiking down the rock-strewn wash, which is like a staircase in a few places
Some of the gnarled juniper and pine trees down here are really big and old. - It's dry right now, but I can imagine a rush of water being funneled down this drainage during the wet season
I'm still at about 5750 feet elevation, so I have more downhill hiking ahead (the tent is down at about 4915 feet). - The wash begins to widen slightly, collecting sand that runs down from the McCullough Mountains
No fresh footprints here! - The wash continues to wind its way down from the McCullough Mountains
With fewer obstructions in the wash now, my hiking speed has picked up. Plus, I'm still headed downhill. - A primrose blooms in this McCullough Mountains wash near an old tree trunk
This is probably Oenothera caespitosa. - The star of most every desert-wilderness trip: the stray balloon
I stuff this into my backpack for later disposal; it's the only piece of litter I found in this McCullough Mountains wash. - I'm seeing some footprints in the sand now as I get closer to the Pine Spring area
I'm not seeing cow manure here, but I wouldn't be surprised to find cows in this area. - Another Palmer's penstemon starting to bloom
Pine Spring Road should be just up ahead somewhere around the bend. - I'm surprised to notice a few barrel cacti along Pine Spring Road on my way back to the tent
I didn't notice these when I walked past here earlier today and I didn't see many barrel cacti all day. - I have an easy one-mile walk down Pine Spring Road to finish off the day's hike
I climb up a small hill to check out a few barrel cacti growing by the road. - And there it is, home again for the night near Pine Spring, with a flowering beavertail cactus along the way
The return hike was faster than expected, so I'm home early. The wash I hiked was mostly clear, but hiking in some washes can be extremely slow due to plant growth. I had enough time to go a bit further up into the McCullough Mountains after all. - Time to boil water for this evening's instant meal: Mountain House Rice with Chicken (yum)
I'm fairly sheltered here from the high winds. Clouds rolled in during the day and the temperature seems to have dropped into the 50s or low 60s. The cool weather means that I haven't drank as much of the water in my 10-litre black water bag as expected. - After dark, I write notes in my journal and wind down as the evening gets progressively cooler
Thick cloud cover blocks most of the full moon tonight: bummer! Tonight I enjoy that extra bottle of Fat Tire beer that I bought at the Nipton store a couple of days ago. Is that muffled sound in the distance coyotes or cows? It's chilly again tonight, so I don all my clothes when I curl up inside the sleeping bag. I have a hard time falling asleep for some reason. Too much excitement, I think. - I slept fairly well, but wake up early to a chilly, grey morning here in the McCullough Mountains foothills
One of my jobs as I pack up camp is to transfer all that extra water in my 10-litre black bag into my water bottles. The wind is still high this morning, and my tent still nicely sheltered from most of it. - Near my tent, this shiny black bug is having fun climbing a bush
I slowly eat one of my typical camp breakfasts: granola, some tamari almonds, dried apricots, dried pineapple, two cold cups of good Starbucks instant coffee (Tribute blend) and a cup of vitamin-C drink. - Camp slowly gets packed up, and I lazily leave my Pine Spring campsite around 11h30
Today I've decided to ride into nearby Searchlight, Nevada, skirting around the east side of the Wee Thump Wilderness on a dirt road. This is not part of my original plan, but it won't take me significantly out of my way. Plans are made to be changed! - The first part of the backtrack ride away from the Pine Spring area rolls in between some low hills
It's a remarkably green landscape, for the Mojave Desert, if not a bit grey, due to all the joshua trees, cholla cacti and blackbrush. - I've just climbed up the single short, steep hill on the way out of Pine Spring
I'm still quite tired this morning, so even this little hill, which I had to walk up, feels like a lot of work. I can't wait until my strength builds up as this trip continues! - From here, the high point of the day, at about 4925 feet elevation, it will be mostly gentle downhill until I reach Searchlight
Searchlight is down around 3550 feet. On the way, I'll cross that expanse of joshua tree forest ahead, the right portion of which is the Wee Thump Wilderness. The road here has a fair amount of loose rock. - This part of Pine Spring Road is fun to descend, with a drop of about 600 feet elevation in 1.5 miles to the powerline road
Parts of the road are clear of loose rock, but for much of it, I have to keep my speed really low, despite the gentle downhill. - It's a great ride rolling downward toward the McCullough Mountains powerline road
However, I am riding the brakes hard to keep my speed low, due to the loose rock. Without all the gear I'm carrying, this could be a fun faster-speed mountain-bike ride. - On the other side of Piute Valley is the Highland Range, about which I know little
I make a note to myself to look up information on the Highland Range when I get back home. The ridge-line profile is intriguing... - I take a short break at the junction of Pine Spring Road and the powerline road, looking back toward the McCullough Mountains
Time for an energy bar (yes, I need an energy bar already) and to give my hands a brief rest from all the braking I've done coming down that hill. - I'm still wearing my sweater as I ride along the Wee Thump Wilderness' northern boundary
I'm down at around 4400 feet elevation now, and the sun is coming out, but I can still feel that cold breeze. It's unseasonably cool here this year. - I spot a few Indian paintbrush flowers near the road on the northeast side of Wee Thump Wilderness
I thought I missed the wildflower season at lower elevations, so I'm pleased to see these. I've seen relatively few wildflowers this year compared to last spring's trip at about the same time of year. - The road along the northeast side of Wee Thump Wilderness is often (but not always) in good condition
It's a really enjoyable ride, even on the 10-ton bike, since it's mostly level. - At around 4200 feet, I'm starting to see just a few wildflowers in the Wee Thump Wilderness area
A patch of beavertail cactus blooms magenta under a joshua tree next to some familiar yellow flowers whose name I forget. - Nearby, a campsite and fire ring are on the other side of the road from the Wee Thump Wilderness
The McCullough Mountains, where I hiked yesterday, sit in the background. - I come across a road marked as a dead-end, only 0.2 miles long
Since it's such a short road, I decide to ride up that way and see where a 0.2-mile-long road would lead. It must have a reason to exist... - It turns out that the short dead-end road ends at a guzzler (a contraption for storing rain water for later use by wildlife)
I knew this road had to lead to something! - "This device for watering game birds was paid for with YOUR money"
No bullet holes in this sign yet. - This guzzler collects water and drains it into the container hiding below the "roof"
It appears that only birds, and not larger wildlife, can get to this water here. Not visible in the photo are the many, perhaps hundreds, of bees living on the edge of the little water reservoir. - Back on the "main road" on the east side of Wee Thump Wilderness, I stop for another quick break to take off my sweater
Another beavertail cactus puts on a solo flower show. My elevation is low enough now that I'm starting to see creosote bushes from time to time, and the day is getting warmer. - A moment of panic ensues when I drop my camera and it no longer takes good photos
I figure that the camera is dead, but after 15 minutes I decide to give the camera a few bangs, out of desperation. I then remove and reinsert the batteries and memory card. It slowly comes back to life. I hope it keeps working! - Along the Wee Thump Wilderness road, I see some yellow buckwheat-like flowers that I'm not familiar with
This might be a Sulfur flower buckwheat (Eriogonum umbellatum). - Yellow and peach cactus flowers next to the small pink blooms of range ratany, adjacent Wee Thump Wilderness, Nevada
A small piece of a joshua tree lays on the ground at the upper-right. - Cactus-flower close-up, next to Wee Thump Wilderness, Nevada
Cactus flowers sometimes remind me of roses. - This Mojave aster, growing at the edge of a creosote bush, still has a few fresh flowers
... but it's almost finished for the year. - I keep riding along the edge of the Wee Thump Wilderness after passing another guzzler (same model as the last one I saw)
The sky has cleared up, and most of the dark clouds have departed, but it's still a very windy day. - This part of the Wee Thump Wilderness road sports some pink buckwheat blooms
Off in the distance is the Castle Mountains, on the eastern edge of Mojave National Preserve. - This range ratany at Wee Thump Wilderness is in full bloom
Magenta-on-grey is an unusual plant combination, hence I always enjoy catching these plants in bloom. - The so-scenic ride through the joshua-tree forest along Wee Thump Wilderness ends here; time to ride the highway for a bit
It has been about 10 miles of fairly easy dirt-road riding, since it was almost all downhill. I'm at about 3960 feet elevation here, about 1000 feet below where I started near Pine Spring. - A few bouquets of yellow and orange dress up the seven-mile straight-line ride to Searchlight, visible even from here
The strong wind is sometimes behind me here, but it's sometimes a cross-wind that tries to blow me out into the middle of the road. Good thing there's hardly any traffic here this afternoon! - Close to Searchlight along Nevada 164, I notice a few of these yellow domes
These might be paper daisies (Psilostrophe cooperi)... - After seven miles, I arrive at the stop sign: I arrive at Searchlight, Nevada, population 576
Oh, look, a pedestrian! I haven't spoken to anybody since leaving Nipton two days ago. I ride down Hwy 95 through the middle of town to see what's here. This only takes a few minutes. - I pull in at one of Searchlight's two gas-station convenience stores, but no propane bottles are sold here
I send a couple of text messages and enjoy a can of soda and a bag of chips, while I decide what to do next. The next building is a motel; maybe I'll stay there tonight. - Of course, there's a casino next door (this is Nevada!) and it has a McDonald's, the only fast food in town
The "Terrible's" casino chain must be everywhere in Nevada... - At the south end of Searchlight, Hwy 95 leaves town for the open desert
I turn around and decide to check out a smaller road (Cottonwood Cove Rd) to see if there's anything I missed here. - Sweet! I stumble across another, smaller, general store and gas station that carries the propane bottle I want!
I buy another can of pop here and chat with the nice gal who runs the place. I wish I had found this store on Cottonwood Cove Rd first. - A lot of the older houses in Searchlight have a bit of old-style character, but need some work
It's great to see some of these old places hanging on a few years longer. - Across the road from the little general store is Searchlight's laundromat
It's too early in my trip to do a full load of laundry, but I'm glad to know this is here. There aren't many places where a camper can do laundry around Mojave National Preserve. - The hills in Searchlight provide a terraced effect in some neighborhoods
A lot of the newer houses in town are of the prefabricated type. - It makes a lot of sense to reduce the speed limit where it goes through town (crossing such a busy road can be interesting)
But the road is designed more for 50-mph traffic than 25. - I decide to check in for a night at Searchlight's only motel; I'll check out that old miner's cabin across the road tomorrow
It's a bit late in the day to start a ride into Mojave National Preserve (next destination Castle Peaks), especially given the strong headwind that I would face right now. - My room is clean, though the mattress rather worn-out, and it's bicycle-friendly
In fact, the woman at the office said she was thinking I might be a biker, once she saw the bicycle. She said that a fair number of cyclists stay here while passing through town, mostly during the bicycle-friendly spring weather. - A billboard next to the Searchlight motel advertises a "luxury" motel elsewhere
... at the same price that one pays here. But I prefer these old "main-street" motels. - After a bla meal at McDonald's, I settle in for an evening of TV and writing notes in my brick-walled room
It's hard to get a special order done right at McD's! Watching TV is always strange, since I rarely do it. I recharge my phone, send a few messages, hand-wash a few clothes, and sip Newcastle beer. My room cools down nicely overnight; I sleep well. - Breakfast in Searchlight means McDonald's again (ugh); I admire the old Colton Mine headframe on the way back to my motel room
I kept waking up with weird dreams all night long, but always fell back asleep instantly. I have a "big breakfast" (scrambled eggs, hotcakes, biscuit, sausage and hash-brown patty) plus an extra Egg McMuffin. McDonald's iced coffee is surprisingly decent, but it takes special effort for them to make it black for me (not put milk in it). - Looking down the street in Searchlight, I can see the forecast rain clouds hovering over the mountains where I'll be headed soon
I'm a bit apprehensive about today's ride to the New York Mountains since the winds are still really strong, and sporadic thunderstorms are in the day's forecast. - I think I'm leaving the Searchlight motel early, but the cleaning woman also arrives early, reminding me that check-out is 10h
Ooops, for some reason I thought check-out was 11h. No problem, I'm on my way out anyway... I pack up the 10-ton bike and add a full load of water on my front rack, making for heavy steering today, and off I go. - My first stop upon leaving the Searchlight motel is the old mining residences just across the road
This house is fairly large and has an interesting "eye" window protruding from the hipped roof. - Nearby is a second building, a small cabin: all this in "downtown Searchlight"
The small, later addition built onto the front of the cabin is about half as large as the cabin itself! - In the backyard sits a small outbuilding
The wires leading to it tell that it even had electricity. - A major luxury...
There's even a bit of sunshine in here. - Another luxury: an old hot water heater
Today's water heaters are wider than these old narrow ones. All design standards seem to evolve over the years... - And perhaps the biggest luxury of them all: electricity
The wiring here is the old knob-and-tube style, which one still occasionally finds in a functional state in old houses. - From behind the old miner's cabin, I look across the highway to last night's Searchlight motel
Nice cholla-cactus and creosote-bush garden! - OK, time to start today's ride; I start riding down Nevada 164 into the grey clouds
Not only do I have a headwind, but it's a bit chilly today and it looks like it's raining on my route ahead (and I don't have a raincoat). I'm wearing my sweater, which I wouldn't expect to need in the Mojave Desert sunshine in late May. - I spot a nice clump of pink buckwheat flowers along Highway 164 on the way out of Searchlight
Suddenly, while checking my cell phone, I realize that I had a one-hour time-zone change while I was in Searchlight. I hadn't even noticed, since my life out here isn't all that time-oriented. - From Nevada 164, I zoom in across the valley and see some rain clouds over the Castle Peaks, my destination today
The wet-weather system looks like it's moving off to the right (north). Good! - As I head into the clouds on Nevada 164, I see a little sunny spot on the road ahead
Will the sunny spot still be there when I reach that point? The headwind here is pretty strong and makes for slow, awkward riding. But I'm in no rush, just enjoying the ride and the scenery. - Indeed, the sunny spot on Nevada 164 stays put and I ride into it
The skid marks on the road go well with the deer-crossing warning sign. Some nice yellow blooms, probably desert marigolds, decorate the roadside here. I'll turn left at Walking Box Ranch Rd, just ahead. - I reach Walking Box Ranch Road and it's time to ride up that way and leave pavement for a few days
Despite the sunshine, I'm getting a few rain sprinkles here. If it starts raining in earnest, I may need to take shelter somewhere around the Walking Box Ranch buildings just up the road. - A row of 6 SUVs has stopped by the Walking Box Ranch, apparently preparing for a ride into the rain clouds ahead, like me
Perhaps a 4WD group ride? One of them is carrying a bicycle on the vehicle. The drivers are busy talking. I take a break nearby, but don't interrupt their party. - I take a short break over by the Walking Box Ranch entrance; it's not open to the public, but it's nice to look at
There are still a few rain sprinkles, but not enough to matter. Desert rain always smells great. I eat a Clif bar, change my GPS batteries, and transfer some water to my Camelbak, which is already down to the halfway level. - I pass the stationary 4WD folks and begin my ride up Walking Box Ranch Road; they soon depart too and pass me, one by one
Several of them wave as they pass, nice, fellow dirt-roaders that we are. - After half an hour, I take a short break at an old corral on Walking Box Ranch Road where I've stopped before
I can still, at times, get a glimpse of Searchlight on the other side of the valley from this area. - I'm often looking back behind me toward Nevada 164 and the Highland Range to take in the cloud formations
Walking Box Ranch Road is an easy ride; rather bumpy, and best done on a mountain bike, but only slightly uphill. Good views and low stress (no traffic) make for a good bicycle ride. - Though mostly gradual, Walking Box Ranch Road does have a few short rolling hills
I enjoy the views of Hart Peak and the Castle Mountains ahead when I ride Walking Box Ranch Road. - Looking back on Walking Box Ranch Road, it looks stormy over toward the McCullough Mountains where I camped 2 days ago
It's perhaps a bit wet over at Las Vegas too. Scattered severe thunderstorms were forecast for today, but I've been lucky enough so far to have missed them. - As Walking Box Ranch Road approaches the California border, I pass another old corral
The old dirt road behind it leads to the Malpais Spring area, where I camped on last spring's trip. I didn't try riding that road though to get there, however. - Here and there on Walking Box Ranch Road are bits of residual old pavement
The road was formerly maintained as an "oiled road." - I'm feeling happy now that I'm seeing views of the Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve
I've crossed the border and am now in California again, but I'm not in Mojave National Preserve just yet: that will be coming shortly. - Walking Box Ranch Road is a "Road Not Maintained" on the California side of the border
For an unmaintained road, this is actually not bad at all. People in cushy cars and not used to mountain biking might think otherwise though. - I pass the Castle Mountains area, just outside Mojave National Preserve, and remind myself to visit this area in the future
My campsite near Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve, last spring had a view of these hills. - I'm going to leave Walking Box Ranch Road here and follow this smaller road at my left toward Castle Peaks
A few minutes ago, I passed a car, which turned out to be from the "4WD group" I saw earlier (biologists, actually). It was enjoyable talking to the driver, who has knowledge of this area. He pointed out that the old power lines on Walking Box Ranch Road had been recently removed. I hadn't noticed, but as soon as he mentioned it, I remembered those power lines from previous trips here. - My new road, which I've not been on before, immediately drops into a sand-and-gravel drainage area
Uh oh, I hope this isn't one of these impossible desert roads. I consider turning around and following the longer, but more predictable route around this area, but decide to continue a bit further first, in case the road improves. - Phew, my road rises out of the gravel onto a smooth surface and passes a "Entering Mojave National Preserve" sign
I'm glad to be back! Now that I'm out of the wash, I notice that this road is abnormally straight and level. - I reach a brief detour down and around a washed-out section of this road and it occurs to me that this is an old railway grade
Click. That's why the road is so straight, level and narrow. I'll learn later that this is the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway that operated from 1906 to 1911. I'm really enjoying the joshua-tree forest here. - A close-up of the wash-out reveals buried posts that supported the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade
Perhaps drainage under the railway grade wasn't so good, hence the wash-out? - I pass an old road leading toward the Castle Peaks area, now closed by Wilderness markers
This old road, still marked on the old USGS quads, is slowly returning to nature. - The Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade is a great mountain-bike ride today, 100 years after the rail line was decommissioned
I'm now far enough along that I can see over to the section of the New York Mountains in the heart of Mojave National Preserve. - I take a quick break in the joshua-tree forest to enjoy the silence and try my cell phone; I also remove my sweater
I wasn't expecting my cell phone to work here, and it doesn't. I'm enjoying a degree of silence here because the heavy winds from earlier in the day have slowed down, which has also caused the temperature to warm up a bit. - I zoom in behind me for a closer look at the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade that I've been riding for a while
Interesting squiggle pattern of tire tracks on the old railway bed... - I haven't seen many wildflowers along the old railway grade, so a patch of paintbrush really catches my attention when I pass by
I'm anxious to get past this mound here for better views toward the New York Mountains. - Suddenly, I have a view across Lanfair Valley all the way to Tabletop Mountain (the distant flat-topped hill, of course)
Tabletop Mountain is a familiar landmark visible from so many locations in Mojave National Preserve, but I haven't seen this view of it before. - I take the detour around another wash-out on the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade
Most of this road is drivable by low-clearance cars, but these occasional wash-outs make higher-clearance more important. - I pass an old OX Ranch water tank, so I'll be leaving the Barnwell and Searchlight Railway grade shortly
Somewhere a few hundred feet ahead, I should see a road leading toward the Castle Peaks. I'll turn there. I'm at about 4600 feet elevation now, up in the high country again. - I start riding, and sometimes walking, the 10-ton bike up Castle Peaks Road, the final leg of today's trip
I've got about 350 feet of elevation gain during these final few miles. It's not steep, but sometimes there's just enough loose sand on the road that it's easier to walk. - As I rise slowly, the views across Lanfair Valley become increasingly expansive
I'll be over in that area of Mojave National Preserve in a few days... - Castle Peaks Road heads across the land toward a slot between the rolling hills at upper-left
My views of the Castle Peaks are getting closer. - 10 minutes later, I'm almost at the next landmark, where Castle Peaks Road arrives at the slot in the rolling hills
In wide, open areas like this, it's always exciting to approach a feature that will probably completely change my views. - Between the rolling hills, Castle Peaks Road rises up a short steep hill onto a man-made berm overlooking a dry reservoir
The greenery in the dry reservoir suggests that it contained water quite recently. Presumably, this reservoir was built by former ranchers to help water their cattle. The road is looking a bit grown-in here. - The short, rugged descent down the hill off the dam on Castle Peaks Road would require high clearance
... and possibly four-wheel drive (in a motor vehicle). - Castle Peaks Road beyond the dry reservoir continues to deteriorate
Here I follow a brief detour to the left around a completely eroded segment of the road. The detour is the smoothest part of the road beyond the reservoir. - Immediately after the little detour on Castle Peaks Road is another sandy stretch, too deep for me to ride the 10-ton bike
Some of the tracks here look like they're from motorcycles (or bicycles?)... I'm getting tired from pushing the bike, so I start looking for a potential campsite as I trudge onward. - My wish is granted when I reach a well-used campsite a short distance ahead, just off Castle Peaks Road
A couple of nice juniper trees, a fire ring (that I likely won't use), and a bit of shelter from the wind make this a good spot. - I go for a short walk as I try to decide where to erect my tent, and I discover this luxury outdoor toilet
It's a bit weathered, but it still looks relatively splinter-free and quite serviceable! - I have to laugh while walking around my new campsite; I discover that I'm at the end of Castle Peaks Road without realizing it
The old road continues beyond this Wilderness boundary as a trail for hikers and horse riders, but is closed to cars and bicycles. My USGS map shows the entire road, but not the Wilderness boundary, so I thought there was still more ridable road ahead. - I set up camp next to a juniper tree, hoping that it might provide a bit of a wind break should I need it
I haven't seen any people since leaving Walking Box Ranch Road a few hours ago, and hopefully it will stay that way while I'm here! I'll be camping here at least one more night, possibly two. - Since I'm between a couple of hills, I don't get to see a full sunset here at the end of Castle Peaks Road
I go for a walk up on a nearby hill, make my add-boiling-water-to-bag meal, then settle in for the evening. Beautiful moonlight later shining into my tent, and the high winds of the day have disappeared. I go to sleep in the serenity at around 23h30, rather tired and a bit sore. But not all is completely silent. In the distance, I can hear the murmur of freight trains down in Ivanpah Valley on the other side of the New York Mountains, a familiar sound in much of Mojave National Preserve that I've come to enjoy. Also, occasional airplanes undo the silence. After dark, the temperature drops significantly, probably into the low 40s(F). Suddenly I'm cold! I wear double socks, long underwear, my sweater and my outer shell to stay comfortable in my sleeping bag. My add-boiling-water-to-bag meal tonight is Natural High "Classic BBQ Chicken and Rice." The sauce is good and robust, but that's all you can taste. Would I buy it again? Maybe, but only to add variety to my menu on a long trip; it's too one-dimensional. - Morning at Castle Peaks Road means I get to try out the deluxe facilities while listening to the quail; it works well!
I woke up several times overnight to hide my head further in my sleeping bag against the cold air, but otherwise slept so soundly that I wake up feeling like I have a hangover. I finally wake up around 9h, suddenly hot from the morning sun on my tent. - I notice bird activity near my tent and locate a nearly invisible bird's nest in an elbow of this joshua tree at centre-right
Breakfast is the usual granola, dried apricots and pineapple, vitamin C drink, plus two cold coffees. Enjoying the Starbucks' Tribute Blend and feeling somewhat refreshed this morning. It's now day 5 of this trip, and my strength is starting to build up. - I start today's hike by climbing up a hill and looking down at my tent in the little valley at the end of Castle Peaks Road
Nice view of the New York Mountains high peaks poking up above the hills. I'll hike over in that area next week. - Someone has a nest here sheltered against a boulder on top of the hill above my tent
Packrats? Crap, I forgot to bring my lip balm with me today. This is one mistake I usually make only once on each of Mojave trips. - I pass a few brilliant Indian paintbrush plants as I further climb the hills above my tent
Joshua trees are scattered, but not dense here. - I'm now at one of the high points of this ridge in the Castle Peaks area, at about 5225 feet elevation
Great views in all directions and some interesting cement-like rock formations. I'm about 250 feet above my tent here. - Good views over to the New York Mountains peaks from this Castle Peaks ridge
The two joshua trees here lend some scale to the size of the rock outcrops and the vastness of the area. I linger here for a few minutes to enjoy it. - From this ridge, the only way is down, so I continue eastward down into the canyon below
I'll drop about 200 feet in elevation here. It's a bit steep in places, but open enough that cross-country hiking and obstacle avoidance is easy. - To my surprise, I find a small stream in this unnamed Castle Peaks canyon
No spring is marked on my maps at this location, so I wasn't expecting to find any water between my tent and Indian Spring, my destination, on the other side of Castle Peaks. The water is clean and some bees are enjoying the stream's periphery. - I climb up the next hill and down into a juniper-studded valley
I'm enjoying my random up-and-down cross-country route, but it's certainly not the most efficient route. - I encounter a nice patch of Mojave asters on the way down into the valley below Castle Peaks
I'm a little late this year: many of the Mojave asters I've been seeing are near the end of their flowering season, unlike this one. - In this little valley below Castle Peaks, I reach an old closed road, a perfect trail after a bit of cross-country hiking
I check my maps and, yes, this is the same closed road that I saw while riding the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade yesterday. It's the only one in this area. - The cool rocks formations in the Castle Peaks area are endless; this one harbors a small natural arch
... so I have to make a short detour to check it out. - I crouch and walk through this little rock arch in the Castle Peaks area
How long did it take for this hole in the rock to erode? - On the other side of this Castle Peaks arch is a rock formation that looks like a tortoise, with its head extended
This rock tortoise (or is it a lizard?) even has an eye! - I climb over the next hill (a 75-foot rise), upon which I find a boulder with a tuft of cactus on its head
Now I'll drop down into a wash below where those joshua trees ahead look so distant. - I find a few Gooding's verbenas blooming in the wash
Sometimes these are quite abundant in the Mojave Desert highlands, but I haven't seen many yet on this trip; I'm probably a bit late in the season. - Now that I'm in a smooth-bottomed wash in the Castle Peaks area, my hiking speed is picking up a little
I've been hiking randomly up and down hills to explore the area, with no real route other than hiking in the general direction of Indian Spring, where I'll hopefully get some more water. - In this Castle Peaks wash, I encounter my first stray balloon of the day, trapped in a desert sage bush
Will I encounter more of these today? I stuff this one in my backpack for later disposal. - In this Castle Peaks wash is the most lush Desert four o'clock (Mirabilis multiflora) that I've seen so far on this trip
Many of these that I've seen so far are nearing the end of their flowering season. - Six minutes after my first balloon discovery, I stumble across a second one in the same Castle Peaks wash
This one is impaled on a cactus, so I decide not to collect it to throw in the trash later. It can stay here! - Hiking down this Castle Peaks wash is fun (it's a bit downhill), and then I reach this fairly recent barbed-wire fence
This might be the Mojave National Preserve boundary. There's plenty of room for me to crawl under the fence, so I do. I just hope it will be as easy to cross when I encounter it again in a short while. - A nice juxtaposition of pink cactus flowers and orange desert mallows in this Castle Peaks wash
Is there anything pinker than these cactus flowers? - Yellow Eriophyllum wallacei flowers are scattered intermittently in this Castle Peaks wash
I often mistake these for goldfields flowers. - A few stretches of this Castle Peaks wash have a lot of thorny Catclaw acacia bushes to avoid
Catclaw acacia are those grey leafless bushes that look dead. They are just beginning to sprout leaves at this time of year. I always gets hooked and stabbed by this plant if my hiking gets careless in areas like this! - A few rather large Chia sages grow in this Castle Peaks wash
This part of the wash is quite open, with fewer catclaw acacia bushes to watch out for: easy hiking. - I climb out of the wash and crawl under the barbed-wire fence again, in order to continue hiking toward Indian Spring
The wash below is starting to veer away from my desired direction. If I were to continue hiking in it, I'd eventually end up down around Walking Box Ranch Road. It would be an interesting hike, but it's not on today's route. - Near the barbed-wire fence is the brightest blooming desert sage I've seen yet on this trip
I lightly brush my hand against it to catch its wonderful aroma. - I drop down into the next wash that my route randomly crosses
A few milkweeds grow in this wash, not flowering yet. - I continue hiking more or less along the barbed-wire fence
... but I will soon need to veer off to my left to stay on track for my Indian Spring destination, regardless of any hills that may be in the way. - I climb over several low hills on my cross-country route toward Indian Spring
There's no easier way to cross this area except to go up and down against the topography. I'm enjoying the barrel cacti around here. - I notice a nice little "pineapple cactus" on my cross-country trek over the low hills
It would be easy to carelessly walk on this pile of thorns if it didn't have a protruding flower. - As I drop down into yet another wash, I realize I'm quite close to Taylor Spring (dry), where I hiked last year
If I were to turn around and hike down this wash in the downhill direction, I'd be at the Taylor Spring site in less than a 1/4 mile.