- I start this Mojave National Preserve trip by waking up in my kitchy 1980s room at Baker's deteriorating Royal Hawaiian Motel
Time to go for a walk up Baker's main road to get some breakfast at the Big Boy breakfast buffet. This will be my last non-backpack meal for the next week. - Roadside view of the Royal Hawaiian Motel, my home last night while waiting to begin the bikepacking trip
I often stay here while passing through Baker because it's the cheapest motel in town at $49 if you pay cash. It's a bit seedy and the oldest part of the motel is abandoned, but its well-worn 80s decor lends a special character to the place. I've taken more photos of this place during my earlier trips here. - From my balcony at the Royal Hawaiian, I can see Kelbaker Road heading into the cherished emptiness of Mojave National Preserve
After my huge meal at the breakfast buffet, I return to my motel room to pack up and get going. - The 10-ton bike is now packed and assembled, ready to leave the Royal Hawaiian and spend two weeks in Mojave National Preserve
I considered starting my trip last night when I got off the Amtrak bus at 20h30 by riding off into the dark and camping near Indian Springs. However, I was quite tired, so I ate a big meal at the Mad Greek restaurant and stayed at the motel instead. - I check in at the Royal Hawaiian Motel for the night, which is an interesting example of kitsch from the 60s or 70s
This motel is a bit trashy, and part of it is abandoned. This is the most interesting motel in Baker with its authentic retro 70s-80s decor. However, the Royal Hawaiian is not for everyone. If you're the fussy type, pay a few dollars extra for one of the "better" motels in town instead and spare us the complaints about the Royal Hawaiian! - Retro 70s furniture in my room at the Royal Hawaiian Motel at Baker, California
After checking in at the Royal Hawaiian, I walk over to Los Dos Toritos, one of the only non-chain restaurants in town, to officially end my trip and start reminiscing over a tasty chile verde plate. After a quiet evening at the motel, the 10-ton bike and I will spend tomorrow on the Amtrak bus and train to get back to San José, the land of employment, mortgages and suburban sprawl. I'll even get to speak to some French tourists at the bus stop here in Baker before I leave. This trip will become another well-earned deposit in the memory chest. - The Royal Hawaiian Motel is the cheapest motel in Baker, and for good reason (at $49/night it's not exactly cheap, however)
The rooms recall the 1970s and often exhibit various features of obsolescence, such as this out-of-service wall heater and a big stain on the thick carpet. I've stayed here several times now, and each room is a little different. - Even the message telling the visitor that this heater is no longer in use appears to be many years old
The tape attaching the message to the heater hasn't detached yet. - Overview of my room at the Royal Hawaiian Motel
This room still has the original knotty pine ceiling. The ceiling in many other rooms has since been covered up by the kind of faux-wood paneling that adorns the walls here. The power goes out a few times during the evening for a few seconds. I'm left wondering if the power failure is caused by tonight's wind storm or if it's because I'm running the heater in the room. - The stained ceiling in the bathroom tells a story of a shower in the room above that leaked
Perhaps the ceiling still leaks now; the sink in this room is clogged and drains extremely slowly. - The particle-board door on the bathroom has never been painted
This replacement door looks like it was installed years ago, judging by the water stains. - Fluorescent bulbs above the beds (and almost everywhere else) create a retro 1970s fashion
The symmetrical arrangement is further complemented by the landscape painting hung above the beds. It has been a long day of travelling and I fall asleep easily in this quiet place. (Who else spends Xmas Eve in a motel?)