Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / Spring 2011: Mojave National Preserve and area bicycle camping / Day 6: Bathtub Spring Peaks (New York Mountains) and Willow Wash hike, Mojave National Preserve 92
I've often looked at this part of the New York Mountains while passing by, but hadn't explored any of it on foot.
I prepared a route through the area and loaded it into my Delorme GPS to follow as a guide, expecting to make a few changes along the way, depending on topography and time constraints.
Perfect hiking weather again and, like yesterday, I'll see no people today. I'll drink about 3.5 litres of water, eat one energy bar, plus some chocolate, almonds and dried apricots (not quite enough food, really). 13.4 hiking miles and about 2300 feet of elevation gain.
- Morning #2 at the end of Castle Peaks Road is warm and sunny
I'm glad I filtered extra water at Indian Spring yesterday so I can hike another day in this area. Even though I woke up cold around dawn, it's hot in the tent now whenever the light morning breeze stops. I tried to sleep in more, but I've been awake since around 8h30. - Insect webs (caterpillars?) on a Desert almond bush near my tent
I've seen quite a few of these webs around here. While eating my usual dry camp breakfast, I watch a mourning dove snuggling up against a joshua-tree branch; perhaps there's a nest there which I couldn't see. - Today's hike begins by walking about 1/3 mile down the non-Wilderness section of Castle Peaks Road
Some scarlet Indian paintbrush and yellow flowers (possibly Goldenbush) add occasional colour to the roadside. I see my tire tracks and footprints from two days ago. - I veer to the west (right) when I reach the dry reservoir 1/3 mile down Castle Peaks Road, instead of staying on the 'main road'
I can see the Castle Peaks Road climbing up over the berm on the other side of the reservoir. - I hike past another set of Wilderness markers on the west side of the Castle Peaks Road dry reservoir
The former ranch roads in this Wilderness area serve as good hiking trails these days, even though they aren't formally considered as trails. - A few Mojave asters are still blooming in this joshua-tree forest
These asters seem so delicate compared to their rugged environment. - The former ranch road cuts across a wide-open area in the New York Mountains foothills
I'm just high enough in the New York Mountains foothills that I can see all the way across Lanfair Valley to Table Mountain, at distant right, and Hackberry Mountain, at distant left behind that joshua tree. - I reach another dry reservoir with a Desert four o'clock blooming on the "shoreline"
The cracked clay shows that water does accumulate here, despite its absence today. A few quail and mourning doves flit about, breaking the silence. - I've seen these tiny pink flowers so many times, but can't remember what they are
Quite a few Mojave flowers are in this category of I-remember-I-forget-what-this-is, since I only see many of them when I'm visiting the Mojave Desert. - Miniature high-Mojave flower garden
Desert trumpets (the upright, dry stems), orange desert mallow, and tiny purple flowers whose name I forget. - I start walking up a wash away from the dry reservoir and inadvertently scare a few quail into a joshua tree
Actually, they startle me as much as I startle them; it's otherwise so quiet out here, with just a light breeze and no other people around. - I'm heading up a small drainage now toward that rounded hill on my way to the Bathtub Spring Peaks area
To keep the grade as gentle as possible, I'll soon veer a bit to the right, then back to the left when it's time to climb the big hill. - Does one ever see enough scarlet Indian paintbrush while hiking in the Mojave Desert?
It's a slightly uphill hike now, and my energy is just not kicking in yet. Maybe I needed to sleep more last night. Maybe I'm not yet inspired by the gentle topography here after yesterday's awesome hike in the Castle Peaks area. - The drainage wash has fizzled out and I find my self hiking uphill and cross-country amidst some gangly joshua trees
According to my GPS, I'm almost at the high point of this stretch. - To my surprise, the crest of this anonymous wash in the New York Mountains foothills overlooks some of the Ivanpah Valley; wow
Time for a short break and an energy bar. It's not just the energy bar that helps, but the views invigorate me too. Sometimes, the psychological is as important as the physical. - From this overlook above Ivanpah Valley, I'll hike to my left a bit to avoid the gulley, then to the right up the big hill
My goal is to get up on top of that hill at upper-right. - When I reach the base of the higher hill ahead overlooking Ivanpah Valley, it doesn't look like it will be as steep as expected
Onward and upward I go to the top of that hill ahead. Energy kicks in. Is it the energy bar I just ate? - Climbing this hill toward the Bathtub Spring Cliffs requires some care to avoid the rocks and ground-hugging cacti
I'm glad to be wearing long pants so as not to collect burrs and such on my socks and legs. I'll be up on top of this hill shortly! - I'm high enough now that I can see behind me to the Castle Peaks (center-left) and the Castle Mountains (center-right)
Interesting dark cloud shadow in the middle of my view... - I arrive at the top of the hill, which I'll call 'Bathtub Spring Peak,' since it has no official name
Commanding views of the badlands just below and across Ivanpah Valley, all the way to Clark Mountain and Ivanpah Dry Lake near Primm. - From this spot on Bathtub Spring Peak, I get a view of Cima Dome's distant, gentle curve that I haven't had before
The hills in the middle ground are in the Slaughterhouse Spring area, which I haven't visited yet. I hear a hawk screeching occasionally and then see it flying around. Maybe there are nests up here. - It's a steep drop from Bathtub Spring Peak down to the badlands below
It looks possible to slowly climb down the slope, but I plan on taking an easier way down behind me. - I'll walk over to the high point of Bathtub Spring Peak, that big rocky lump ahead
The elevation is around 5300 feet there. Of course, it's windy up here. The only other sound is that hawk screeching, wherever he is right now. My cell phone works here, so I send a couple of text messages. - Looking across Ivanpah Valley from Bathtub Spring Peak, I can make out a distant road leading up into the Ivanpah Mountains
I can see the lower part of Ivanpah Road snaking around in the middle ground. I'll be down around there soon. I wonder when a human was last up here... - Willow Wash, where I'll be hiking in a while, is in front of that hill in the middle ground
I'm intrigued by the badlands between there and here on Bathtub Spring Peak. The badlands, like the peak here, are probably rarely visited. - Another steep drop on the north face of Bathtub Spring Peak
It's interesting how the north side of the peak is cliff-like and heavily eroded, while the south side is a more even downhill. - Looking back from Bathtub Spring Peak, I can see over to the Castle Peaks pinnacles where I hiked yesterday
The mountains at distant left are, I believe, the McCullough Mountains outside Mojave National Preserve, where I hiked a few days ago. - Walking along the crest of Bathtub Spring Peak, I begin thinking about the next part of today's hike
As the saying goes, "What goes up must come down." - From the west end of Bathtub Spring Peak, I can see clearly down to Ivanpah Road, and over to the New York Mountains peaks
I think I can make out the faint traces that are the little road to Bathtub Spring, and the old Ivanpah railway bed. - I examine the southward view from Bathtub Spring Peak, since this will be my downhill route in a few minutes
I can see all the way to Hackberry Mountain at distant centre. I can even see a segment of Ivanpah Road at upper left, which I'll ride tomorrow on the 10-ton bike. - One more glance from Bathtub Spring Peak toward Ivanpah Dry Lake, then it's time to start heading downhill
I always quiz myself when I contemplate these grand views. I think the low mountains to the right of Ivanpah Dry Lake are the Lucy Gray Mountains; the McCullough Mountains would be a bit further to the right, outside this photo. - I begin the short steep hike from Bathtub Spring Peak down to Bathtub Spring itself, following a drainage corridor
Downhill we go! I follow the natural drainage channel downward. - The hike down the slope to Bathtub Spring is not fast, since it's steep, but it's enjoyable
I'm at a somewhat level spot here, and the next stretch is going to be steep, so I'm checking it out before committing myself to a route. - On my way down to Bathtub Spring, I look back to hear several noisy hawks hovering in the sky
I was hearing their screeches from time to time while up on Bathtub Spring Peak, but not always seeing them. Perhaps they didn't like my intrusion into their territory! - I'm almost down in the Bathtub Spring canyon now
Another short steep stretch to be taken carefully until I'm down there. - A few barrel cacti greet me as I arrive in the Bathtub Spring wash
I'm at about 4800 feet elevation now, 700 feet below the peak where I was a while ago, and have a couple hundred feet more descent ahead before I reach Bathtub Spring. - I always enjoy hiking down winding, rocky washes like this one on the way to Bathtub Spring, New York Mountains
So far, this wash appears to be typical for this type of geography: a scenic jumble of large and small rocks washed down from the steep adjacent hillside. - Nice, a little natural arch near Bathtub Spring, New York Mountains
I'm not quite a mile from Ivanpah Road, but this is just far enough from the main road that it probably doesn't get seen by many folks. - At the lower end of Bathtub Spring wash, a lot of small, loose rock makes hiking a little slower
I can make out a segment of Ivanpah Road from here at center-left. - I check my GPS and climb over a small hill to reach Bathtub Spring; there it is, in a wire cage!
This is the New York Mountains Bathtub Spring off Ivanpah Road, not the Bathtub Spring in the Mid Hills to the west. I'll visit them both during this trip, which may confuse this travelogue somewhat. - Bathtub Spring in the New York Mountains is true to its name and has a bathtub, inserted into an old rusted cistern
Despite surface algae, the water is fairly clear. The wire cage makes human access difficult; I'm glad I brought adequate water with me. The small box on a post contains a wildlife camera; I've been caught on these before! - New York Mountains' Bathtub Spring is home to hundreds of happy bees
A mineral crust on the bathtub betrays an earlier high-water level. - I walk a short distance down the old road that leads away from Bathtub Spring to meet the old Ivanpah railway grade
I can see Ivanpah Road down there, but I won't be going quite that far. I've ridden the 10-ton bike on Ivanpah Road many times, but this is the first time I've been in this area on foot. - I pass a patch of those tiny purple flowers I've been seeing occasionally
I still can't remember what these are, but I enjoy running across them. - I arrive at the bottom of Bathtub Spring Road and exit the Wilderness boundary
It's interesting to look up at the high point, Bathtub Spring Peak, where I was a little over an hour ago. - Here I am now at the old Ivanpah railway grade, which I never got around to visiting while passing by on previous trips
I'm looking forward to hiking this "road." Down at this lower elevation, the breeze is warm, not cool like the wind up on Bathtub Spring Peak. - It obviously required a lot of work to slice the old Ivanpah railway grade through the hills a century ago
Those were other times, a mining boom, not so different in some ways from today's "tech" boom. - Piling the earth for the raised Ivanpah railway bed in low areas would have been as much work as cutting through the hills
After a century, the railway bed is still mostly intact. Imagine a train riding down this road. - As I continue hiking along the abandoned Ivanpah railway grade, I notice that the road deteriorates
I notice some traces of tire tracks here, but not a lot of motor vehicles have been here recently. It might make an interesting rough-road mountain-bike ride. - I've seen a lot of lizards scurrying around today, and finally I manage to photograph one!
They're usually too fast for me, but this time, I think the lizard believes I am not seeing him. - Vegetation is slowly encroaching on the old Ivanpah railway grade
I've seen Mojave asters, Indian paintbrush and buckwheats growing along here. Here is a blooming paper flower bush (Psilostrophe cooperi). - On some stretches of the abandoned Ivanpah railway grade are good views into the old Vanderbilt mining district
That big "ant hill" in the middle ground is one of many mining sites in that area. That's another area that I need to explore one of these days. - Ooops! A total wash-out of the old Ivanpah railway grade
Maybe this didn't have good drainage under the earth berm here. Tire tracks show the route down into the wash and back up onto the railway grade. Yellow Prince's plume flowers bloom here. - I climb back up onto the Ivanpah railway grade after the wash-out and it's another slice through the rocks
.. and a few more yellow Prince's plume flowers. But very little traffic here during the past few years! - After a fun, level half hour on the old Ivanpah railway, it's time to climb down and hike cross-country over to Willow Wash
Willow Wash is just in front of that hill ahead, about 1/4 mile away. I'll make a right turn there to start the hike up Willow Wash toward camp. - But first, I'll stop to finish off this last delicious piece of orange-flavored chocolate
I hesitate to bring chocolate on warm-weather hiking trips because it melts and makes a mess. But the moderate temperatures so far on this trip make me happy that I brought chocolate this time! - Purple phacelia flowers (Desert canterbury bells) as I approach Willow Wash
I haven't seen many of these during this trip (I'm probably too late in the season). - I'm now in Willow Wash, Mojave National Preserve, at the lowest point of today's hike: 4175 feet elevation
It will be a gentle uphill in this wide wash and I should reach Willow Spring after about 1.5 miles. - As I slowly gain altitude in Willow Wash, I turn back for a view across Ivanpah Valley to the blue curvature of Cima Dome
It's definitely warmer down here in the wash (low 80s F?), but it's nonetheless a rather cool day for this time of year. - A few desert sages (Salvia dorrii) are still flowering here in Willow Wash
Not many other flowers down here right now... - I notice what looks like an old metal cistern buried in the sands of Willow Wash
Has the cistern sunk in the sand over the years or has the sand level of Willow Wash risen to cover it? - A little further ahead in Willow Wash is a small rock ruins, probably another extinct cistern
Some old rusty metal pipes can also be found nearby. - I pass through a grove of Desert willows (Chilopsis linearis), which is likely what Willow Wash is named after
The Desert willows are just starting to leaf out, but are mostly leafless and grey right now. - According to my GPS, I'm not quite at Willow Spring when I pass this old corral in Willow Wash
Most of the old stick fence is still standing, and has been repaired over the years in some spots. - Pincushion flowers and a few phacelias grow near the old corral in Willow Wash
It's odd to suddenly find a big patch of wildflowers when there are otherwise so few in the area. That metal object in the background... - Here's a defunct metal cistern in Willow Wash that has not yet been buried in sand like the last one I saw
A boat marooned on a sandy beach... - Near the Willow Wash corral is a pile of wood and concrete debris, suggesting that a small outbuilding may have once stood here
A little Mojave squirrel quickly scampers across the debris just before I pull out my camera. I've seen quite a few of these, but I rarely get to photograph them because they move so quickly. - After a bit of searching, I locate what I believe is Willow Spring, in a grassy area shaded by nearly leafless Desert willows
I find a concrete cistern and slightly greener grasses, but no other sign of water, so I figure this must be the current incarnation of Willow Spring. - I open the wooden lid on the concrete cistern at Willow Spring, and a bit of water stares back up at me
I see my reflection down there, but I get the impression that the water is quite shallow. - Beyond Willow Spring, my goal is to hike over the hills and be back at my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road before dark
I check my GPS and decide to follow a small drainage out of Willow Wash that briefly heads toward the cliffs here before climbing a hill to the left (eastward). - On the way up out of Willow Wash, I hike through the first of several small water-carved drainages in the rocks
Whenever I walk through places like this, I try to imagine what it would be like full of the water needed to wear down rocks like this. - A brilliant penstemon manages to grow in the rocks here above Willow Wash; there's barely any soil here!
Probably Penstemon centranthifolius. - It's not quite a seep, but there's enough residual moisture to attract bees at this spot in the drainage above Willow Wash
While riding the 10-ton bike up Walking Box Ranch Road, I remember seeing dark clouds over this area. Perhaps the moisture here is from rain here a couple of days ago. - A few Cliff roses bloom in the rocky drainage leading up out of Willow Wash
I'm at about 4850 feet elevation now, almost 700 feet higher than where I started in the lower part of Willow Wash. - I come across a rather fresh skeleton here above Willow Wash
It looks like some kind of large bird... - The skeleton has been efficiently picked clean
Any shred of remaining meat on the bones are completely dry. - I'm temped to try hiking up a slot in the rugged cliffs adjacent to the drainage above Willow Wash
According to my GPS, a few potential slots in the cliffs might be hike-worthy, but if not, I would have to return to the drainage here. - I decide to ignore the cliffs and keep hiking up the easier route in this drainage above Willow Wash; the top is not far ahead
I enjoy scampering up the little rock obstacles along the way here. Ahead on the right, it looks like there may have once been an old road cut here. - As I get higher, I look back (southwest) at the views behind me toward Willow Wash
I can't stop looking at those cliffs to my left and wondering if I could climb through them. I'll zoom in a bit closer. - I zoom in closer and, yes, there is a slot in the cliffs that I might be able to hike
However, I can't see where it ends, and it might end at a wall of rock that requires serious rock-climbing skills. It would be fun to go find out what's up there, but I hope to make it back to camp by sunset. - I finally reach the top of the drainage and am treated to an unexpected panorama across the Ivanpah Valley
Since these New York Mountains hills have no name, I'll call them "Dove Spring Peaks" because they overlook the area of Dove Spring, which I've heard is dry. - The succession of ridges visible from Dove Spring Peaks stands out in the pre-dusk sunlight; I recognize those pinnacles
I saw those pinnacles while hiking at Castle Peaks yesterday and was wondering where they are located. Now I know. - Dove Spring Peaks also has views over to the high blue peaks further over in the New York Mountains
The lower blue hills in the middle ground are probably the Bathtub Spring Peaks, where I hiked earlier today. - I savour a few final views from Dove Spring Peaks, then turn around and begin the hike back to camp
I spend a few minutes looking at the USGS quads on my GPS and choose a route over the hills back to camp, about a mile and a half away. - I hike through an upland valley on the way back to my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road
The rolling hilltops surrounding me have panoramic views of the area, but here in between them, I have none. It's an interesting feeling. - Within 15 minutes, the sun has dipped enough that my upland valley here is largely shaded
I'm chasing sunlight now! I'll turn left (southeast) in a moment, then climb one last hill before the final short descent down to camp... - Still chasing sunlight, I climb over this one final hill before the short descent to my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road
These rounded hills here are predominately grasslands, with occasional spiky yuccas and cacti poking through. - I can't see my nearby campsite yet while hiking down this hill, but I do get a good glimpse of the Castle Peaks along the way
Tomorrow, I'll be leaving this area, so this may be the last I see of the Castle Peaks for a while. - My cross-country hiking ends when I come down the hill and join up with the end of Castle Peaks Road and its Wilderness markers
It's already shaded here, but the glow of sunset still radiates on the rounded hill further up the road. - Back at my campsite at the end of Castle Peaks Road for a third and final night, I'm thinking about supper now
It's a pleasant, quiet evening, cool, but not downright cold, once the sun goes down. I haven't seen anyone else in two days now. I boil water and add it to a bag of Mountain House Chicken Teriyaki with Rice which is pretty good. I love the crunch of the water chestnuts. Unfortunately, the water that's been in my 10-litre MSR water bag for two days has picked up a distinct plastic taste. I can even smell it when the water is boiling, and taste it through the otherwise delicious sauce of my instant meal. Blech. The star-studded sky is black again while I write notes in my journal, then the moon rises late in the evening. Serenity. I put on my sweater and long underwear, crawl into my sleeping bag, and hope for a good night's sleep. - Bathtub Spring Peaks, New York Mountains hiking route elevation profile
13.4 hiking miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Bathtub Spring Peaks, New York Mountains hiking route
13.4 hiking miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain.