Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2007: Death Valley National Park bikepacking / Day 1: Baker to Tecopa Hot Springs, California, mostly on Highway 127 57
I ride from Baker to Tecopa Hot Springs on Highway 127, then along the Old Spanish Trail Highway via the town of Tecopa.
The ride begins at about 925 feet elevation in Baker, drops to about 450 feet along Highway 127 near Dumont Dunes, rises to about 2100 feet at Ibex Pass, then drops back down to 1400 feet in the Tecopa Basin.
55.5 paved highway bicycling miles.
- Up bright and early, I go for a walk up the road to the Bun Boy restaurant for breakfast
I cross the "Baker Bridge" over the wash along the way. - Close-up of the plywood sidewalk on the Baker Bridge
This undersized sidewalk is really getting worn out! - Trees with pink blossoms in the wash under the bridge
There's even a little bit of water down there in the wash. - Baker Market, the town's only mom-and-pop store, carries a small vegetable selection and even propane bottles
There are franchise-style convenience stores attached to the numerous gas stations here in Baker, but they all feel pretty much the same. But Baker Market is different. Baker Market is the town's only mom-and-pop store and obviously caters to the local residents. It has a small vegetable selection, and carries items you would look for in a small town's general store--like the propane bottles I need for my "one-burner stove." - Baker's "world's tallest thermometer" registers a comfortable 61 degrees Fahrenheit this morning
I don't expect to see such cool temperatures often during the next two weeks while I'm out here, except perhaps if I make it up to some higher elevations. (Baker is situated at about 900 feet elevation.) A heat wave out here a few weeks ago had daytime temperatures in the high 90s and caused me to consider postponing or cancelling this trip if temperatures didn't drop somewhat. The building attached to the giant thermometer is currently vacant. It was formerly used as the visitor centre for the adjacent Mojave National Preserve, which has since moved to the recently restored Kelso Depot train station inside the Preserve. - Baker's lone four-way intersection has a four-way stop, which is great when you want to cross the road
Walking back to my room at the Royal Hawaiian Motel to pack up and start my trip for real. Photo taken looking up Highway 127, which will be today's ride. - The el-cheapo Royal Hawaiian Motel is overpriced for what it is, but the tackiness of the place has its own special character
The Royal Hawaiian Motel is the cheapest motel in Baker, with rooms at around $50/night. But you need to be ready for special features like clogged sinks and missing light bulbs. - A flock of birds congregates in the Royal Hawaiian's parking lot
Last year when I was here, birds were swimming in the motel swimming pool in the morning. I'm not sure why they're not there this morning. - Back at the motel from breakfast, the bike is packed up and ready to leave Baker
Finally, off on my way! - On the way out of Baker on Highway 127
On the outskirts of Baker is one of those "next services" signs, 57 miles in this case (referring to the next gas station, which is in Shoshone). - Highway 127 isn't all that busy, but it does have a lot of big rigs driving it
The first big rig of the day passes me while I am stopped to take photos of the "next services" sign; there will be many more. - Out on the open road outside of Baker on Highway 127
Feeling free and light! - Highway 127 is rather empty once out of Baker
... for quite a few miles. A fairly strong wind is blowing against me, such that I'm barely keeping up a speed of 10 miles per hour. - Oh look, an oncoming car on Highway 127!
The rush and commotion of freeway travellers passing through Baker has been left behind. - I stop for a quick break across from the road that crosses Silver Dry Lake (very dry right now)
I don't really need a break here, only seven miles outside Baker, but I want to check to see if my cell phone still works. It does, but I know I'll be out of range shortly. - Sucking back my first lukewarm water of the trip
My water is not all that warm yet, but it's no longer cold either. No need to get excited--I have the rest of the day for my water supply to get warmer and warmer. Mmmm! - Back on Highway 127, the heat haze makes it look like there are perhaps small lakes in the distance
But, alas, there is almost no water at all up around there. - I stop at the power lines that cross Highway 127 ten miles out from Baker and am surprised that my cell phone still works
But I know it won't work for much longer, having been here before. I send one last text message. - Ooo, a curve on Highway 127 coming up
OK, now my cell phone no longer works, which is how it will be for most of the next two weeks. - One of many campers passes me on Highway 127
Several of them wave at me as they pass (this one didn't). The Dumont Dunes are starting to become visible off in the distance. - A nice little hump in the highway adds extra texture to the moment
Highway 127 begins to pass through a more mountainous area. The strong wind that was slowing me down has let up quite a bit. The day is also getting warmer, into the 80s now, I'm guessing. - Another curve in Hwy 127
In such wide open spaces, curves sometimes feel random, as if the road should just draw a straight line across the desert instead. - The exit to the Salt Creek Hills ACEC (Area of Critical Environmental Concern)
I wanted to stop when I passed here last year, but was running out of time. - I pull into the Salt Creek Hills ACEC to see what's there
There should be a bit of water here (not drinking water). - I park my bike, unlocked (there's nobody around), next to the outhouse, and go for a short hike toward Salt Creek
Some 20-25 miles outside Baker, this is a nice place for a break. - Information panel at Salt Creek Hills ACEC
Yes, there is a bit of water in the desert. - The path leading toward Salt Creek from the empty parking lot
Salt Creek is not too far around the corner behind the hill. - Salt Creek is indeed wet enough to sustain a marshy area
... right here in the dry Mojave Desert! - I climb up one of the rocky hills on the way back to the Salt Creek Hills parking lot
I watch two camper vehicles coming up Highway 127 in the distance. I could spend more time here exploring, but will return to the day's project of riding to Tecopa Hot Springs. - These hills seem to have more rock than soil
A few plants grow here nonetheless. - Looking back toward the outhouse from the rocky hill
The outhouse and information panel are just two more outcrops in this open landscape. - Back in the parking lot and ready to leave Salt Creek Hills
I'm guessing it's in the high 80s by now, if not 90 degrees. I'm still feeling well-hydrated and energetic, which is a good sign since this is my first time riding in such warm temperatures this year. - Back on Highway 127, the road begins its crossing of the valley near Dumont Dunes
After my half-hour walk through the Salt Creek Hills area, I'm back on my bike and beginning one my favourite parts of the ride on Highway 127. - Just before crossing the valley, I stop to ponder Saratoga Springs Road
Saratoga Springs is another desert wetland, located seven miles or so down this dirt road. I planned the trip so that if I am too tired to climb over Ibex Pass today, I could ride down the flat road to Saratoga Springs and camp there for the night. Riding is going well, and I don't feel like winding down yet for the day. So, I won't be visiting Saratoga Springs today, and it remains on my future-visit list. Saratoga Springs lies within the boundaries of Death Valley National Park, at its southern extremity. However, there are no signs around indicating this. The main developed area of Death Valley National Park that most tourists visit is some 75 miles north of here. - "Shoe tree" on Highway 127 across from Saratoga Springs Road
It needs to have more shoes hanging off it to be truly effective!!! Unfortunately, I have nothing today that I can contribute to this important collective work of art. - At the bottom of the valley, I pass the Dumont Dunes parking lot, which is quiet today
I'm about 30 miles outside of Baker now, with about 25 miles to go to reach today's destination, Tecopa Hot Springs. I'm at the lowest elevation of today's trip: about 425 feet. The valley is a few degrees warmer and the sun feels much hotter. I touch my black seat, and it's very warm. My handlebars feel hot. Weekends at Dumont Dunes can get quite busy, but today is a Wednesday. The dunes are popular with off-road vehicle riders and a noticeable amount of weekend traffic on Highway 127 consists of vehicles carrying or towing off-road vehicles to the dunes. - After crossing the valley, the climb up Highway 127 over Ibex Pass begins
The climb up toward Ibex Pass seems really easy at first, but gets a bit more demanding as I get going. It doesn't really even look uphill in this photo. It wouldn't be particularly challenging climb if I didn't have the added weight of my camping gear, a day's worth of water, and the hot sun on my back. - For inspiration, I look down across the valley I just crossed on the way up to Ibex Pass on Highway 127
Dumont Dunes are off to the left. Saratoga Springs Road heads off to the right in front of the mountains in the distance. I've just realized that I had the wind behind me as I rode across the valley. However, I no longer have that assistance, and am on my own again. Any overconfidence I had about how easy this little climb would be has been neutralized. - On the way up the hill is the dirt road to the old Ibex Springs mining area
Ibex Springs is another spot that I'd like to visit on one of my trips out here. It's about five miles down the dirt road, and is also inside the Death Valley National Park boundaries. Again, there are no signs indicating that I'm on the edge of Death Valley National Park. The Dzrtgrls have a very nice photo series from their 2005 car-camping trip to Ibex Springs. - Getting close to the summit at Ibex Pass. Where is it?!?!
I know it's here somewhere, around one of these corners. The meditation of the slow uphill crawl during the past few miles has set in, and I feel like I could pedal up this hill forever. But I am getting excited about reaching that next goal... - Ah, finally at Ibex Pass!
I'm happy now. The hot sun and larger-than-usual load on my bike make it feel like I've climbed more than just 1600 feet from the valley floor to reach this point at 2090 feet elevation. - A quick break at the Saddle Peak Hills Wilderness area adjacent to Ibex Pass
I eat an energy bar, suck back more warm water and walk around a little to take in the views and stretch the muscles. The 10-ton bike is parked outside the posts that mark the Saddle Peak Hills Wilderness boundary, inside of which mechanized or motorized travel is not allowed. Torn caution tape attached to the posts attempts to block vehicles from entering the wilderness area, but apparently it hasn't worked. - The nice scenery induces a pensive moment
... but reveals salt stains on my helmet straps. - Salt excretions on my skin too, not just on my helmet straps!
I'm glad I'll get a shower and a soak in the warm mineral water at Tecopa Hot Springs in a few hours. Unfortunately, one doesn't have the opportunity to shower every day on trips like these. Perhaps that's one reason why I like doing these trips solo! - The road to Giant Mine, in the Ibex Hills Wilderness area, off Hwy 127 on the descent into the Tecopa Basin
Another old mining camp that would be worth exploring one day. - Highway 127 gets ready to drop down into the Tecopa Basin from the Ibex Pass summit
Dramatic rugged mountains sit on the other side of the Tecopa Basin below. Even though I'm heading downhill, the wind against me is quite strong, so I have to keep pedalling in order to maintain my speed. The descent is neither steep nor really long; about 700 feet in elevation drop over about six miles. Just enough to be fun. - A couple of big rigs pass me as we all descend Highway 127 into the Tecopa Basin together
I should have counted how many big rigs have passed me today; probably a dozen or two. - The enjoyable descent into Tecopa Basin on Highway 127 comes to an end
Highway 127 passes alongside a series of heavily eroded hills as it nears the Old Spanish Trail Highway at about 1400 feet elevation. - Close-up of erosion along Highway 127 near Old Spanish Trail Highway
Many layers of earth are exposed. - Tecopa Hot Springs just a few miles away!
At the junction of Highway 127 and Old Spanish Trail Highway. Yes, there's a pay phone at Tecopa Hot Springs, which can be useful since cell phones don't work here. - Tecopa off in the distance
The town of Tecopa sits on the other side of Grimshaw Dry Lake in this view from Old Spanish Trail Highway. - Eroded formations along Old Spanish Trail Highway
You could build imitations of these mounds in your backyard for a fake prehistoric look. - Old Spanish Trail Highway cuts through the earth
Old Spanish Trail Highway rolls up and down across the landscape. - We pass through the village of Tecopa before heading on to Tecopa Hot Springs
The two villages are only two miles away from each other, separated by a big hill. This is the view of Tecopa as one arrives from the west on Old Spanish Trail Highway. - Entering Tecopa Hot Springs after riding over the hill from Tecopa
The early-evening sun provides a nice glow for tourists wanting to see pretty things. - I'm checked in and my tent is set up at Tecopa Hot Springs Campground
I take a camp site near the road because my favourite one down by the dry lake is occupied. I like the trees in this camp site. I'm happy for the night and go for a much-needed shower and soak in the hot tubs to soothe my tired muscles. One of the campground staff remembers me from my trip here last year, and there's also a local resident outside with whom I chatted last year. I feel at home here again, like I did last year, for some reason. I retreat to my camp site after sunset to prepare one of those instant add-water-to-pouch backpacking meals. - A gentle reminder not to drink the water at Tecopa Hot Springs campground
The water is heavily mineralized, which is a problem that can't be solved with the water purifier that I carry with me. The local piped-in water is also naturally warm. This is probably one of the few public campgrounds that has warm water in the toilets. It's also one of the few campgrounds that I've visited which doesn't supply potable water. They don't even sell large containers of water at the campground office. Fortunately, there is free water available outside the school at the village of Tecopa, two miles away, and water can be purchased at the general store and gas station in Shoshone, eight miles away. There's no moon tonight, but many stars twinkle in the black sky.