Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / Spring 2011: Mojave National Preserve and area bicycle camping / Day 1: Primm to South McCullough Mountains Wilderness area, Nevada by bicycle 54
Starting at Primm, Nevada, where the Amtrak bus left me yesterday evening, I ride to the Pine Spring area and set up camp next to the South McCullough Mountains Wilderness, Nevada. 29.3 bicycle miles plus roughly 3500 feet of elevation gain.
Primm is a strange place to start a wilderness-oriented bicycle-camping trip because it's the exact opposite in almost every way. However, the Amtrak bus stop at Baker, California was discontinued last year, and Primm is the next-closest stop to Mojave National Preserve.
- Yesterday, I boarded the Amtrak train with the 10-ton bike at Stockton, California, after a short Amtrak bus ride from San José
My large rear saddlebags get checked in as baggage here, while my bicycle rolls into the San Joaquin train and sits in a nice bicycle rack during the trip. Many Amtrak trains do not accept unboxed bicycles, but this route does. - After the Amtrak train ride to Bakersfield, an Amtrak bus shuttled me to Primm, Nevada to start this bicycle-camping trip
The Primm bus stop is at Whiskey Pete's casino-hotel. It was too late in the day to start my camping trip, so I signed up for an expensive room after a quick ride to check out prices at the other two casino-hotels. One is full due to a Thai fight show. - After settling in at my hotel room at Whiskey Pete's Casino, I ride the monorail across the freeway to the other two casinos
I had already ridden the 10-ton bike through this area and it's not very friendly to non-motorized transport, which isn't surprising. The monorail is a lot more fun! - On the east side of the freeway at Primm, Nevada are two casino-hotels, and one is built with an interesting barn-like shape
The two casino-motels are connected, so I go inside to explore. The casinos are open, but the shopping mall inside is mostly closed at this hour, providing a place to roam uselessly. - The shopping mall at Primm, Nevada is full of fake architecture evoking a real city, rather than the freeway exit that is Primm
I didn't check it out during business hours, but these are supposedly "outlet shops," where you can buy brand-name items for less than retail. That is, if you want any of the things that they sell in the first place... - Also inside the Primm shopping-casino complex is a fake stream with fake wildlife
Fake wildlife is probably better than real for some folks, judging by the odd reactions I sometimes get when I tell them that I'm on a wilderness bicycle-camping trip in Mojave National Preserve (and risking contact with real wildlife). - The casinos at Primm are quite a visual spectacle, with brilliant lights everywhere
Of course, there's lots of noise too, from the beeping of the gambling machines to the cheesy background music to the buzz of people talking. It wasn't that busy here last night, perhaps because of the Thai fighting show. - Outside the two high-rise casino-hotels at Primm, Nevada is a luxurious gas station with a bay for each vehicle filling up
I stopped at the store here, perhaps the only person without a car, and bought a couple of Newcastle beers to take back to my room. I was happy to see they have a couple of good beers on sale here! - I wake up this morning at Primm, Nevada and peek outside across the swimming pool to a cool and extremely windy day
High winds were forecast for for the first couple of days of my trip ("local winds may be damaging"), so I'm not surprised, but I am disappointed that the forecast has become reality! - I eat breakfast at the McDonald's downstairs in the Whiskey Pete's casino; there's more garbage than food on my table
Everything is yellow to brown, no vegetables. What I would really like right now is not this, but an iron bowl of sizzling Korean bibimbap with rice, a fried egg, and vegetable and meat garnish... (but this is the California desert) - I pack up the 10-ton bike, and roll it out down the hall to the Whiskey Pete's elevator
I was hoping for a ground-floor room so I could avoid using the elevator, but I ended up with a second floor room. It turned out not to matter much, since the packed 10-ton bike fits perfectly in the elevator. - After escaping Whiskey Pete's, I begin the trip for real by riding through Primm toward the dirt roads that lead out of town
See that narrow dirt road straight ahead at the end of the pavement? That will be my road. The bend on the silly palm trees indicates how windy it is here today in this part of the Mojave Desert. - Just outside Primm is one of the entrances to the Ivanpah Dry Lake recreation area
Ivanpah Dry Lake is mostly used for wind-sailing. Regulations state "non-motorized use only," so it might be a fun place to ride a bicycle too. I don't have time for that today, nor do I have a permit, so I continue on toward Nipton. - I take a look back at Primm as I leave town; I considered riding on the freeway for a smoother ride toward Nipton
After all the traffic and activity around Primm, it's nice to be out on a lonely dirt road and getting started with this year's trip. Glad to not be on the freeway, especially with a headwind. Sometimes I like riding on the big roads, but today I'm itching to get away from all that. - After 1.5 miles, my road ends at the train tracks; I make a right turn for the 10.5 mile ride to Nipton on Nipton-Desert Rd
As soon as I turn here, I cross the state border and enter California for part of the day. - Soonafter, the first train of this trip passes me on bumpy Nipton-Desert Road
Nipton-Desert Road hugs the train tracks all the way to Nipton, and into Mojave National Preserve. The road is rough, but not as sandy as it was during an earlier ride here on Nipton-Desert Road back in 1999. I think I lucked out on this one. - From Nipton-Desert Rd, I can see across Ivanpah Dry Lake to the huge BrightSource solar plant under construction
The BrightSource solar plant is plowing down quite a big chunk of Ivanpah Valley here, transforming it from wild land to an industrial park. What a waste. - The bumpy Nipton-Desert Road is starting to give me a headache, so I'm happy to take a break by this prickly poppy
I eat an energy bar and enjoy the quiet out here and the views of Castle Peaks in the distance. I'll visit there in a few days. I haven't seen a car or a person since leaving pavement back at Primm. - This railway undercrossing along Nipton-Desert Road also serves as a road to the Lucy Gray Mine
I haven't visited the Lucy Gray Mountains yet, but behind them are the McCullough Mountains, my destination today. - After about 6 miles of bumpy Nipton-Desert Road, I'm happy to reach the relative smoothness of some residual old pavement
I'll have this pavement for the final 3-4 miles until I reach Nipton. Hurray! - I pass an old corral on Nipton-Desert Road
Only a couple more miles to go until I reach Nipton. - Approaching the tiny town of Nipton, California, population 20, with the Castle Peaks in the background
I always look forward to stopping at Nipton, and I sometimes camp here also. It's one of the few places around where a camper can get a much-needed shower! - I take a break at the Nipton general store for chips and iced tea, and I fill my water supply to the max
One of the women working there remembers me from last year. I learn that a major plumbing problem under repair has temporarily closed the café and showers, so I unfortunately won't be coming back for a shower later during this trip. I buy a couple of Fat Tire beers for later :) - I glance at Nipton's little solar-power plant as I begin the ride up the hill toward Crescent Pass, Nevada
It's nice how they've built this solar plant right in town, to reportedly supply 85% of the town's power needs, instead of destroying open desert land further out. - The four-mile climb up Nipton Road to Crescent Pass isn't too steep, but it does take some time pedaling in the lower gears
I'm fortunate to have today's strong winds behind me, helping me up this hill. With a full water load (about 18 litres), the 10-ton bike is at it's heaviest. I'll gain about 1800 feet elevation during these four miles. - I always have to stop at the "Welcome to Nevada" sign whenever I pass by here
Nipton Road becomes Hwy 164 when it leaves California and enters Nevada here. - At the junction of Lucky Dutchman Road, I look back down into Ivanpah Valley and Ivanpah Dry Lake
Soon, I'll leave these views behind me as I enter the McCullough Mountains. - Approaching Crescent Pass, I ride under the power-transmission lines that I'll soon follow into the McCullough Mountains
Traffic on Hwy 164/Nipton Road has been fairly light today. There are a few cars here right now, but I've often had the road to myself while climbing the hill. - I start seeing a few wildflower blooms along Highway 164, so I pull over to walk around for a closer look
A few orange desert mallow bushes are blooming in this area. - Also along the Highway 164 roadside are what I think are desert marigolds
There are so many yellow desert flowers that it's easy to get them mixed up with each other unless you spend time studying the details of each type. - Palmer's penstemons are always nice to run across
Bees always seem to enjoy these flowers. - A Gooding's verbena blooms near a Palmer's penstemon along Highway 164
I've seen these verbenas most often in the burned areas of Mojave National Preserve. - A desert primrose is blooming here along Highway 164
The flowers look like they're starting to fade; perhaps I'm seeing the beginning of the end of its blooming. - At the Crescent Pass summit, I see the little dirt road into the McCullough Mountains that I'll follow
I'm excited to start riding up that road toward Pine Spring in the McCullough Mountains. I was hoping to camp up there last spring, but ran out of time. - After a short distance, I turn back for my last view of the Castle Peaks before I disappear into the McCullough Mountains
I can still see Highway 164 over there. No more pavement for a couple of days! - A cattle-guard marks my entry into the McCullough Mountains area
The dirt road ahead, in good condition so far, rises slowly into the rolling hills on the southeast end of the McCullough Mountains here. - I pass an old mine site, clearly marked, and am tempted to stop to explore
However, it's 16h30, and I don't know if I will encounter any obstacles on my way to the Pine Spring area, so I continue ahead on the 10-ton bike. - My nice firm road surface transforms into shallow "kitty litter" as the road passes through a wash area
Since the pea gravel here isn't too deep, I can maintain traction on most of this stretch, thanks to my fat 2.3" Serfas "Swoop" tires. Still, I occasionally end up walking the 10-ton bike, hoping for firmer ground ahead. - I'm happy when my gravelly road in the wash leads to the firmer ground of the McCullough Mountains powerline road
This road is generally heading in a downhill direction. However, many short steep hills like this one cut across the area's rugged topography, making for a fun roller-coaster-like ride on the 10-ton bike. - I pause on one of the many level stretches (in my direction of travel) along the McCullough Mountains powerline road
The numerous joshua trees here make for a really scenic ride, in addition to the fact that I've seen no people other than myself so far since leaving the pavement of Highway 164. - I stop again to take in the views eastward across Nevada's scenic Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness
The McCullough Mountains powerline road where I'm riding is the western boundary of Nevada's Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness. So many joshua trees... - More fun rolling up and down (more down than up) along the powerline road on the southeast side of the McCullough Mountains
I'm glad this road has turned out to be a fun ride, even with the 10-ton bike and a bit of loose rock on the road. Some of the other desert powerline roads have lengthy stretches that are ridiculously steep, and unrideable. - I take a short energy-bar break where I leave the powerline road for a lesser road heading toward the Pine Spring area
I've dropped to about 4550 feet elevation from about 5000 feet during the last four miles, but I'll gain most of that back during the final few miles ahead. - Loose rock and an uphill grade require that I walk the 10-ton bike up parts of the road toward the Pine Spring area
The mild temperatures (the wind up here in the hills is a bit chilly) have helped me ease into climbing hills with the 10-ton bike for the first time since last November's Route 66 trip. - I remount the bike and pedal some more when I reach a less hilly part of the road heading toward the McCullough Mountains
I notice I'm feeling tired; that last energy bar didn't provide much of a boost. The strong winds pushing against me here are using a lot of my energy, so I still find myself walking the bike occasionally. - I haven't seen a lot of wildflowers in this area today, but here are a couple in the road to Pine Spring
I think this is a desert marigold and a small purple flower whose name I can no longer remember. - I make my final turn for the day onto a road that winds down and around a few low hills en-route to Pine Spring
Happy to have a brief downhill! I'm only a couple of miles away from Pine Spring now. My arms are getting tired from steering with a full 10-litre water bag on my front rack. - Joshua trees poke up above the shade line to collect the sunset light along Pine Spring Road, McCullough Mountains
I'm immensely enjoying the scenery here, but notice that the road is getting sandy in places since it's in a wash here. - Pine Spring Rd gets sandier and is heading slightly uphill again, so I look for a campsite; I think I may have found one
I need a significant windbreak due to the almost-stormy winds. It turns out that over by that juniper tree against the low hill is just barely enough room between plants for a good campsite. I dismantle the 10-ton bike and walk my belongings over there. - I set up my tent and enjoy the full moon that has risen before sunset
Of course, the full moon will be even better after sunset! - After darkness falls, I boil water under the full moon for the first add-water-to-bag meal of this trip
I stabbed my leg on that yucca while setting up my tent, since there's just barely enough space for a tent here. It's a nice cozy spot; I listen to the evening's high winds howling above me with little impact on my tent. - Tonight's meal is Backpacker's Pantry Beef and Broccoli, really good, plus a bottle of Fat Tire beer that I picked up at Nipton
I put on my sweater and long underwear (brrr) and write notes in my journal, periodically stepping outside to enjoy a bit of moonlight. It's a bit colder than I expected (low 40sF?), but I'm happy to be out in the Mojave Desert again as my evening fades away. I haven't seen any people since I left the pavement of Highway 164 earlier, but there are fairly fresh tire tracks on the road here. I fall asleep around midnight wondering what tomorrow's hike into the McCullough Mountains might bring. My tent flaps around a bit, but is mostly protected from the high winds blowing across the area. My upper body hasn't pushed a heavy bicycle in a while and my stomach muscles almost feel bruised from doing this. Hopefully this will heal overnight! - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Primm, Nevada to Pine Spring area, McCullough Mountains
29.3 bicycle miles plus about 3500 feet of elevation gain. - Bicycle route from Primm, Nevada to Pine Spring area, McCullough Mountains, Nevada
29.3 bicycle miles plus about 3500 feet of elevation gain.