Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2010, Mojave National Preserve / Day 9: Nipton to Malpais Spring by bicycle via Walking Box Ranch Road, Mojave National Preserve 56
The striking Malpais Spring area of Mojave National Preserve has been on my to-visit list for a few years. I hope to find water in the area. Near-perfect temperatures today: warm sun, a bit chilly at times, but never cold.
I rode the unpaved Walking Box Ranch Road on an earlier trip, almost 10 years ago, but I didn't stop near Malpais Spring.
27.6 bicycle miles today. The 3500 feet of elevation gain reported is probably exaggerated as usual by the Topo 7 software that I use.
- I'm up reasonably early and walk over to the Nipton store for some breakfast snacks and coffee
I slept so well last night that even the booming trains passing a few hundred feet from my tent barely woke me up. I miss Bill's home-cooked breakfast at the Nipton café. Bill passed away just recently and the new management isn't open for breakfast yet. - I enjoy the morning shade of the eucalyptus trees at Nipton campground on this cool morning
I don't need them in this morning's weather, but these non-native trees are really nice when one wants to sleep in a little and not be woken up by hot morning sunshine cooking the tent. - Time to brush my teeth and pack up for the ride from Nipton to Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
The morning sun is already heating up the quonset hut behind me that houses the washrooms. - A datura blooms at Nipton campground while a long freight train squeals by
Daturas grow all along the train route that crosses Mojave National Preserve. - The outdoor sink at Nipton is decomposing after many years of service in the hot Mojave sun
I fill up my four 1.5-litre water bottles, my two litre Camelbak and my 10-litre water bag. I'm hoping to find water at Malpais Spring, my next stop, but I don't know for sure if there will be any. - From Nipton campground, I look across the train tracks and up Ivanpah Valley toward Cima
Wide-open space for miles... I was up there just yesterday. - The cactus garden in front of the Hotel Nipton is artfully built of multi-coloured rock
Coloured rock creates spaces and patterns in the garden. - The 10-ton bike awaits departure at Nipton's outdoor sink after the final, heavy addition of my water supply
I bungee the weighty 10-litre water bag on my front rack to avoid overloading the rear rack. This saves my rear rack from breaking, but makes steering more difficult, and more demanding on the arm muscles. - The 10-ton bike and I wobble up Nipton Road away from the campground and pass a few antique buildings while leaving town
Back on the highway, I begin the next phase of this year's adventure. - Across the road from the Nipton General Store is a rock-display yard
Rocks for sale from the nearby Lucky Dutchman Mine; maybe some of the colourful rocks in the Nipton cactus garden came from there. - I head east up Nipton Road toward Crescent Pass, Nevada, up in the hills at centre-left
I'll climb almost 1850 feet over the next 4.5 miles. The cool breeze helps to moderate the hot sun. A tailwind makes the climb easier. - At the Nevada border, I notice that my 10-litre MSR water bag is dripping a bit from the nozzle
Hmmm... it didn't leak when I last used it almost six months ago. I guess the plastic is finally reacting to being stuffed in my overheated saddlebags for days on end while bicycle touring. - After half an hour, I stop for a few minutes on the way up the hill: I'm in Nevada now
A new "Welcome to Nevada" sign has been posted since I last rode by here and entered Nevada briefly, two years ago, this one with fewer bullet holes. On the California side, it's called Nipton Road; from now on, I'll be on Nevada 164. - From the Nevada-California border on Nipton Road/Nevada 164, I look back down the hill to the tiny town of Nipton
On the far side of the Ivanpah Valley are the Ivanpah Mountains, and behind that, the Clark Mountains. - Just beyond the "Welcome to Nevada" sign is an "Area of Critical Environmental Concern" sign
Perhaps it's referring to the Wilderness areas that I'll pass soon. - Riding east toward Crescent Pass on Nevada 164, I pass under the power lines that cross Mojave National Preserve
Oddly, the sign for Crescent Peak Road is misspelled, with an unnecessary "a." (Creascent?) - I notice some tiny purple flowers growing in the gravel on the shoulder of Nevada 164
Cool! This looks like Purple Mat (Nama demissum). - I approach Crescent Pass on Nevada 164, whose high point is at about 4870 feet elevation
Folks at the Nipton store mentioned this morning that there was light snow on the pass here yesterday, at about the same time that I saw a few snowflakes on my way down Cedar Canyon Road. - Near Crescent Pass, I stop to look at a dirt road that leads toward the McCullough Mountains
I studied the area up this road in case I have time to ride up that way on the way back from Malpais Spring. I notice that my rear wheel is coming loose again, so I tighten it, and cut through my thumbnail, drawing lots of blood. Oops. - After crossing Crescent Pass on Nevada 164, I'm coasting downhill when I see this huge joshua tree by the highway
How old is this joshua tree, given that they only grow a few inches per year? I'm riding downhill now, into a chilly headwind. Where did that nice tailwind go that helped push me up the hill? - Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness: I take a short energy-bar and water break at the turnout along Nevada 164
I must be tired already; I bang my head on the sign while parking my bicycle! McCullough Mountains in the distance. Not today, but maybe on the way back? I put on my sweater and transfer two litres of water from my water bag to my now-empty Camelbak. - Purple desert sages dominate the foreground as I go for a short walk in the Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness Area
Wee Thump Wilderness Area was established in 2002. Fields of desert mallows bloom almost invisibly in the background between here and the McCullough Mountains. - I've just coasted blissfully down 6 miles of Nevada 164 and reach unpaved Walking Box Ranch Road, where I'll turn off
I've dropped 900 feet to about 3950 feet elevation. I can see the town of Searchlight, Nevada 7 miles further down the hill. Searchlight is not on my route for this trip, but I might end up visiting there if I don't locate water at Malpais Spring. - The historic Walking Box Ranch is being restored, but is not yet open to the public
I consider going for a walk around the grounds just to see what's there, but decide to ride onward in case I have delays reaching Malpais Spring. - A sign warns of mining traffic near the start of Walking Box Ranch Road
The mines referred to by the signs may be no longer operational, but I'm not sure. I guess I'll find out how much traffic there is. So far, no sign of life around here. - One lane only on Walking Box Ranch Road: for a Mojave Desert dirt road, it's actually pretty good
Unlike many Mojave Desert roads, Walking Box Ranch Road is one on which I can confidently plan to cover many miles in a day. It's rather rough for sure, but I'm not worried about the 10 miles ahead of me on this road. - Fields of pinkish-white buckwheat flowers bloom along Walking Box Ranch Road, with Nevada's McCullough Mountains in the distance
I've been riding slowly up the gentle grade of Walking Box Ranch Road for almost half an hour now. - The pinkish-white buckwheat flowers dominate the Walking Box Ranch Road area, but they are not the only showy plants
The white fluffies in the foreground look like a winterfat bush, and many pale yellow flowers (matchweed?) also dot this area. - Walking Box Ranch Road is mostly straight and slightly uphill, but occasional humps over desert topography add interest
The abundance of joshua trees makes for a scenic ride, even though the miles of telephone poles look endless at times. - Views down to the town of Searchlight, Nevada open up occasionally along Walking Box Ranch Road
I'll have to check out Searchlight one of these days... The only part of Nevada I've visited so far is this area here just east of Mojave National Preserve. Nope, I haven't been to Las Vegas. I live in suburban sprawl (San José), and have little interest in visiting other anti-cities like that. - Fragments of old pavement on Walking Box Ranch Road
I rode Walking Box Ranch Road once before, back in 2000. Due to the spongy texture of the pavement, mostly gone today, some called it a "molasses road." - I pass the six-mile marker on Walking Box Ranch Road
The long, straight line of telephone poles continues, as does the view toward the Castle Mountains ahead at my left. - I pass an old corral on Walking Box Ranch Road and check my GPS for directions here
Roads in this area are unmarked and easy to miss. A visible route to Malpais Spring leads from behind this corral at the middle-right, but I decide to stay on the "main" road and look for the shorter route further ahead. I hope it's passable! - I approach the sole motor vehicle that I've seen today on Walking Box Ranch Road
It passed me a short while ago, but there is nobody in it when I pass. Presumably, the occupants are out hiking (or hiding from me). - I pass an extremely modest post on Walking Box Ranch Road which marks my re-entry into California from Nevada
Luckily, I know where I am, since "State Line" on the sign doesn't tell me which state I'm leaving, nor which I'm entering. I notice a small camper parked in a wash near here. - I almost missed the old road to Malpais Spring, here it is; I've been watching for it and checking my pre-recorded GPS points
I turn here and drop down into the gulley; Malpais Spring should be a mile or so up that way near the low hills at distant right. Castle Peaks form a backdrop at the distant left. - Stagecoach Well sits in the wash along the road to Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
There's an old windmill and water tank here at Stagecoach Well, but no water (I wasn't expecting any, but you never know). - Rising out of the wash just past Stagecoach Well, the road is really rough, with loose rock on the surface
I drag the 10-ton bike up this little hill. My rear wheel is rubbing against the bike's frame again. I would stop and adjust it now, but with only a mile or so ahead of me, I decide to just put up with it. - I pass one of those small "Entering Mojave National Preserve" signs on my approach to Malpais Spring
Actually, I forgot that I was outside Mojave National Preserve and that parts of it don't extend all the way to the California-Nevada border. The road is smoother here, so I'm back on the bike riding slowly, with Castle Peaks in the distance. - Malpais Spring Road tops out on a plateau at about 4600 feet elevation, so I park the bicycle and start looking for a campsite
Nice view of the town of Searchlight, Nevada from here. At this point, the meagre road turns northeast and continues back down to the corral on Walking Box Ranch Road that I passed a while ago. - I go for a short walk to check out the area at the top of Malpais Spring Road; this will be home for a night or two
I'm hoping to find water in the area tomorrow, even though the nearby gorge looks bone-dry from up here. I drank about 4 litres of water today on my way here. - I look westward up the gorge toward Malpais Spring and get excited about tomorrow's hike up into that area
The Malpais Spring area has been on my list of places to visit in Mojave National Preserve for a few years now, so I'm happy that I've finally made it here. - OK, so where do I set up the tent here on Malpais Spring Road?
I walk past the Wilderness boundary and think about walking in my belongings and setting up camp in the joshua tree forest, away from the road. - I put on my sweater and long pants and decide to set up camp in the turn-out at the top of Malpais Spring Road
Despite a few tire tracks, it doesn't seem that any regular traffic passes here, so I'm hoping for solitude, even at the edge of the road. Nice view of Castle Peaks in the sunset! - The plateau at the top of Malpais Spring Road and a few old stretches of range fence receive the orange glow of end-of-day sun
There's white stuff on that barrel cactus; I'll take a closer look. - Fluffy white stuff on a small barrel cactus at the top of Malpais Spring Road
A few wands of grass poke through. - A close-up of the white fluff on the barrel cactus
A nest for insects or a small bird? The tough cactus spines do provide a measure of protection. - The pale buckwheat flowers look pinker in the blush of sunset near Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
These plants seem to love the gravelly soil up here. - Looking toward the Castle Peaks, the buckwheat flowers pick up the sunset light differently
Sunset is perhaps the best time of day to be outside in the desert. Professional photographers already know this, but my travels are not always so perfectly scheduled. - The nearby Castle Mountains and Hart Peak radiate in the sunset near Malpais Spring
With almost no wind this evening, it's incredibly quiet and peaceful up here. Sometimes I stand here gazing, as motionless as possible, to experience maximum silence. - Pink-orange haze sets in over Nevada, east of my campsite near Malpais Spring
It's getting dark and I'm getting hungry; time to think about supper! - The sun sets, little by little, minute by minute, on the Castle Mountains and Hart Peak
I snap a lot of photos, trying in vain to somehow capture the moment in some meaningful way. - The upper turrets of the Castle Mountains and Hart Peak soak up the very last rays of the day
I stand here listening to the nothingness and the breeze, disconnected from all those things "that matter." It's well worth the sweat and calories that it takes to get here. - The moon is full enough tonight to cast shadows here near Malpais Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I settle into the tent for a relaxing evening. Supper is Mountain House Jamaican Style Chicken and Rice, which is spicy enough to be a real winner. It's a chilly evening, so I sleep with long underwear and double socks. I sleep so well. - Elevation profile of Nipton to Malpais Spring bicycle route via Walking Box Ranch Road
27.6 bicycle miles with 3500 feet of elevation gain, probably exaggerated by the Topo 7 software as usual. - Nipton to Malpais Spring bicycle route via Walking Box Ranch Road
27.6 bicycle miles with 3500 feet of elevation gain, probably exaggerated by the Topo 7 software as usual.