Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2000: Mojave National Preserve Bicycle Camping Trip #2 / Day 8: Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, Mojave National Preserve, to Goffs via Essex Road and historic Route 66 22
Again, the cold prevented me from sleeping well last night, but at least I managed to sleep in after sunrise. My fellow bicyclists from Minnesota were awake early and they deserted Hole-in-the-Wall well before dawn (probably frozen).
Since it's looking like another cold day, today's goal is to reach a lower-elevation location. I'll leave Hole-in-the-Wall here at 4500 and aim for Goffs, California, at 2600 feet, passing a low point at Essex, California at about 1800 feet.
45.8 miles, 3:33 hours, 22.3 mph max speed, 12.8 mph average.
- Bright sun warms up this cold November morning at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, Mojave National Preserve
Again, I didn't sleep well last night due to the cold. I make a nice hot breakfast of Mountain High vegetable curry, which I decide is not their best backpacking meal, but it does hit the spot. - The water taps at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground are still functional this morning
You never know when cold weather might cause water lines to freeze... Hole-in-the-Wall is really scenic, flat and open, and framed by wild-West mesas and hills. However, it's the only RV-friendly campground in Mojave National Preserve, so it can be full of noisy campers during warmer months of the year. I usually prefer the RV-unfriendly Mid Hills Campground seven miles up the road for this reason. - One final view of my campsite at Hole-in-the-Wall campground, Mojave National Preserve, before I pack up and leave
The campground is empty today, which of course I'm enjoying. Perhaps I should just stay here today and climb some of the surrounding hills that are calling me... - The 10-ton bike is all packed up and we're leaving Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, Mojave National Preserve
Most importantly in this dry environment, I've filled up my water bottles before leaving. - After exiting Hole-in-the-Wall Campground, I gradually descend Black Canyon Road southbound toward I-40
This part of Black Canyon Road is paved, the first pavement I've ridden in a couple of days. Effortless, rapid and pretty. At first there are a few Joshua trees, but then no more. - Black Canyon Road winds through the Colton Hills as it approaches Essex Road
I'm back in low-elevation creosote bush scrub now. This road is fairly well-travelled, but these hills are probably not often visited, and might make a good stop for a day hike (though I don't have time today). - At the foot of Black Canyon Road, Essex Road is reached
Turning right (northwest) leads to Mitchell Caverns (Providence Mountains State Recreation Area) after five miles; turning left (my route) leads to Interstate 40 and historic Route 66. - Looking northwest up Essex Road from the bottom of Black Canyon Road toward Mitchell Caverns and Providence Mountains
This isn't my route today, but perhaps I can come back here later; this looks like a worthwhile area to explore. - Essex Road has been rather desolate so far, so it's amusing to ride over the tube of civilization that is Interstate 40
I started at around 4500 feet elevation this morning and now I'm at 2100 feet. It doesn't seem like I've descended that much; none of this downhill has been steep, but it has been relaxing and enjoyable. - On Essex Road, it's 6.3 miles past Interstate 40 to the nearly dead town of Essex, California at the base of the distant hills
Essex Road drops a little, from 2100 feet to about 1700 feet at Essex. - Closer to Essex, I pass the "This is IT" RV park, and not much else
There doesn't seem to be much activity at "This is IT" at first glance. - Still on Essex Road, I look back at the IT RV Park and a number of trailers or buildings which weren't apparent while riding by
Maybe there are some folks living at "This is IT" after all. The Clipper Mountains, largely within the Clipper Mountains Wilderness, sit in the foreground, with the Providence Mountains (Mitchell Caverns) in the background. - The village of Essex on historic Route 66 is that collection of buildings a mile or so ahead
Essex Road ends there at Old Route 66, but it's possible to continue beyond up the dirt road that rises into the hills (Sunflower Springs Road). - Abandoned café and gas station at Essex
Surprisingly, the phone booth here is still in operation! - The Essex post office next to the abandoned café and gas station
The Essex post office is still open. When it closes in a year or two, there will be no services at all left in Essex. A few people still live here. I stop in to buy a few stamps for postcards and have a good chat with the postal clerk, who has been working here since the mid-1960s. He's happy that there has been some effort to record the area's history in recent years. - On the other side of Route 66 from the Essex post office sits this old house, which appears empty
The closest store is at Fenner, 6.5 miles northeast, where Route 66 crosses Interstate 40. I need to get some water, so I start riding up Route 66 in that direction. - Fenner, California is mostly just this big gas station serving freeway traffic from Interstate 40
I've read that there was once a small town here at Fenner, but it apparently faded away over the years as many desert towns do. I stop here to pick up a few overpriced supplies and carry on. - After buying water at the Fenner gas station, I ride 10 miles further up Route 66 and arrive at Goffs, California
Goffs, California is really tiny, with only about 20 inhabitants. Here are their mailboxes. The Providence Mountains lurk high in the background on the left. - Goffs, California on old Route 66
This abandoned house looks like it's been sitting here like this for years. - The old Goffs school house property
The old school house is being restored and the property being set up as a museum. Unfortunately it's closed today. A lot of volunteer work has gone into this project. - From "downtown" Goffs, California, a dirt road called Mountain Springs Road runs south, connecting to Essex
A sign warns that the road is not maintained. - The Goffs General Store has just closed for the day (I wasn't expecting it to be open anyway)
I don't see a single person in town. The storekeeper is leaving after closing up for the day, so I ask him where a common camping spot might be in the the general area. He says that it's fine for me to pitch my tent on the property, so I do. Thank you! Actually, I was expecting to ride a few miles up Ivanpah Road back into Mojave National Preserve and camp somewhere there. But with the end of day approaching very quickly, and I've already ridden 40 miles today, I take advantage of the storekeeper's offer and camp in the carport out of the chilly evening wind. I think this is the first time I've pitched my tent on a concrete slab, and it feels bizarre. I heat up a pouch of lamb curry for supper under the carport (which doesn't feel very camper-like!)