Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2008: Mojave National Preserve Mountain-Bike Camping and Hike / Day 6: Coyote Springs to Butcher Knife Canyon via Kelso Depot and Death Valley Mine Road, Mojave National Preserve 43
I haven't seen any people in the Coyote Springs area since leaving the pavement of Kelbaker Road two afternoons ago.
The day's bicycle travels include a bit of everything to keep things interesting and test my physical and psychological ability to switch from mileage-covering road cyclist to mountain biker to backpacker-like hiker dragging a 10-ton bike. 38.8 bicycle miles.
After a few miles of mostly ridable dirt and sand upon leaving Coyote Springs near 3200 feet, I get 8 miles of paved downhill highway biking on Kelbaker Road to Kelso Depot at 2100 feet. Then I will climb 14.5 miles of gentle uphill on paved Kelso-Cima Road to 3700 feet, followed by a couple of miles of steeper climbing on the paved part of Cedar Canyon Road to reach 4500 feet.
Mountain-bike mode and hike-a-biking alternate during the final slow, rolling, nine miles on sand and dirt roads to the old corral below lonely Butcher Knife Canyon at 4600 feet. I won't see any people after I leave the pavement of Cedar Canyon Road.
- Early morning coffee-making at Coyote Springs, Mojave National Preserve
I'm inspired by yesterday's great hike into Bighorn Basin, and the hot morning sun prompts me to get up a little early (9h is early for me) for today's ride to the Butcher Knife Canyon area on the northwest side of the New York Mountains. A lot of small wasp-like flies buzz around while I make coffee. They seem to like both my shiny stainless-steel pot and the water vapour emanating from it. Breakfast is two cups of dark coffee, granola, tamari almonds and dried apricots. I'd like to make a bowl of instant miso soup, but I'm almost out of water. - Breaking camp and packing up
So much for being up early, it's already past 11h and I'm still not on the road yet. Procrastination rules! But I have to get to Kelso Depot soon because almost all my water bottles are empty. - OK, I'm finally on my way down the road away from Coyote Springs
At least I've managed to get on the road by noon! Now I'm completely out of water; the sooner I get to Kelso Depot to refill my supply, the better. - I've got three miles of this somewhat sandy road from Coyote Springs to ride on a slight downhill
I have great views of Kelso Dunes down below and the road is fun to ride in this slight downhill, as I skid and scooter the bike along the more slippery stretches. I do walk the bike in a few spots however. I found this road to be much more rideable during a day ride from Kelso Dunes without gear during my 2007 Mojave Preserve trip, so I'm clearly seeing the difference that comes with carrying a heavy load on the bike. - After 30 minutes, I reach the pavement of Kelbaker Road
It has been a lot of fun up here, but since I'm out of water, I'm looking forward to filling up at Kelso Depot 8.5 miles down the hill in the valley. - A roadkill specimen greets me just as I'm about to start the ride down Kelbaker Road
This may have been a turkey vulture. I recognize them when they hover in the sky patrolling the land, but I'm not used to seeing them up close like this. - I can't resist taking a closer look at this big bird
Presumably, another turkey vulture should come by soon to clean up the mess. - The 8.5-mile descent down Kelbaker Road to Kelso Depot is always fun
It's early Monday afternoon, so there's not much traffic, which makes it funner. I almost reach 30 miles per hour on the steeper stretches here, and the desert wind is cooperating, pushing me a little from behind. - One hour after leaving Coyote Springs, I pull into the Mojave National Preserve visitor centre at Kelso Depot
I stop at the Mojave National Preserve visitor centre at Kelso Depot, chat briefly with rangers on duty and replenish my 18-litre water supply again. Each time I fill up, I am reminded of the weight of the water that I carry (almost 40 pounds) and wonder if I'm crazy. I have to carry this much because I don't know if the springs in the Butcher Knife Canyon area will have any water for me and I do plan on spending two nights there. - I also visit the washrooms outside Kelso Depot to wet my hair and rinse one of my wool t-shirts and a couple of other items
These merino-wool t-shirts are proving to be excellent. They are comfortable, lightweight and airy, and don't get all heavy and wet from my sweat. The big salt stains from my sweat are hidden somewhat by the flecked appearance of the grey fabric. Soaking my hair with water feels great since I haven't had a shower in five days and don't usually have enough water at my campsites to "waste" on serious washing. - After my 45-minute break at Kelso Depot, I begin the next segment of today's ride: Kelso-Cima Road toward the New York Mountains
During the next 14.5 miles, which are nicely paved, I'll rise from 2100 feet here at Kelso Depot to about 3700 feet at the base of Cedar Canyon Road. Even though Kelso-Cima Road is often empty, the moderate amount of fast-moving traffic here, coupled with the lack of a paved shoulder, requires that a cyclist be attentive. - As I climb the Kelso-Cima Road grade, train tracks are always to my right near the road on a raised bed
Sometimes the tracks are high enough to significantly impair the view of the Providence Mountains in the background. - After 3.8 miles, I pass Globe Mine Road, where I camped for three nights a few days ago
I enjoyed it up there; perhaps I'll get to explore more of that area on a future trip. - A train just passed me on the Kelso-Cima grade
When the train caught up to me, the conductor stuck his head out the window of the cab and we waved to each other. This happens twice during my ride up Kelso-Cima Road today. The uphill trains move rather slowly. When I hear one coming up behind me, it seems to take a bit of time for the train to catch up and pass me. I'm plodding along at about 7 miles per hour on this grade, so the trains must not be climbing at a speed much faster than 20 miles per hour. Today's destination is on the middle left edge of the New York Mountains, that mass straight ahead in the distance beyond the train. - I pull off the road for a short break and to refill my Camelbak from my 10-litre water bag
It's a warm afternoon with the hot sun on my back, probably in the high 80s, and I've already drank two litres of water since leaving Kelso Depot almost an hour and a half ago. - I take another break when I reach the end of my Kelso-Cima Road climb at the junction of Cedar Canyon Road
A marker commemorates the old Mojave Road that leaves from this intersection and heads up to Marl Springs. It took me about 2 1/4 hours to climb the 14.5 miles of Kelso-Cima Road with 1600 feet of elevation gain. I visited Marl Springs on my 2006 trip and rode a few miles of the Mojave Road, but Bicycle Joe travelled almost all of the Mojave Road by bicycle in 2008 (way to go Joe!). - When people come down Cedar Canyon Road, here's the sign that they see when they reach the end at Kelso-Cima Road
I'm as rejuvenated as I'm going to be, so I end my short break and begin the next segment of the ride, the 2.4-mile mostly paved climb up Cedar Canyon Road during which I'll rise about 800 feet. - Welcome to Cedar Canyon Road
At the base of Cedar Canyon Road, one encounters this "cows" sign. It's possible that this sign is just decorative now because some of the ranch lands in the area have been purchased by the National Parks Service and are no longer. - After another half hour, my two-litre Camelbak is empty again, so I take a break at a pull-out along Cedar Canyon Road
I just drank two litres of water in an hour and a half? Though a bit more than I expected, I guess it's a reasonable quantity given that it has been a very warm day and I've been pedalling uphill for the last few hours. I always enjoy views of Cima Dome, that gentle rounded curve in the background here. This would make an easy camping spot if I were ready to stop here for the day. There's even a campfire ring here for those who are carrying some wood to burn. - I resume the climb up Cedar Canyon Road and stop to enjoy the view down the road from where I just came
I'm getting close to the top, which is only 2.4 miles from the bottom. The road rises almost 800 feet during that distance, so the temperature is dropping a little. Cool wisps in the breeze feel great after the earlier afternoon heat. - A little higher up Cedar Canyon Road, the pavement ends, just like the sign says
The Mid Hills and New York Mountains are no longer so far away. One car and one fire truck (is there a fire somewhere?) pass me in this area, the only traffic I've seen on this road so far. - I reach Death Valley Mine Road and turn left here to begin skirting around the west side of the New York Mountains
At this happy moment, I realize that I won't see any more pavement for the next couple of days. It will turn out that I won't see any people either during my time off-pavement in this area. - Death Valley Mine Road winds around the base of the mountains
Despite the name, Death Valley Mine Road is in Mojave National Preserve, not Death Valley National Park. I'm feeling a bit pooped as I begin this phase of today's ride, but I'm inspired enough by the surroundings that I'm ready to ignore poopy feelings. - The first mile or so of Death Valley Mine Road is rideable despite some sand on the road because it's a bit downhill
I still have about nine miles to go before I'll reach the bottom of Butcher Knife Canyon, all on dirt roads. The first 4.3 miles will be on this road, which will end at the old Cima Road and Death Valley Mine. - It's not only sand here: rocky patches on Death Valley Mine Road provide quite a contrast to the slippery sandy segments
Suddenly I have too much traction instead of not enough. I remember these rocky stretches from when I rode here during my fall 2000 trip. - I pass an old road that is now closed by Wilderness barriers
The lower south end of the New York Mountains sit in the background here. - I arrive at the ruins of the old Thomas Place homestead
I have cell-phone reception here, so I change my outgoing message to inform callers of my whereabouts. I would linger here and explore some, but it's getting late and I still have several slow miles ahead of me to reach Butcher Knife Canyon (I probably won't make it by dark). - I'm starting to see some blooming sages in this area
The potent aroma of these salvia dorrii is a pleasure to the nose (to mine at least). Paradoxically, these intense blue flowers look grey and don't stand out at all until you're close to them. - Low-growing banana yuccas are also frequent around here
Sometimes the blossoms are cream-coloured like these, while others are mostly a dark wine brown. - The last mile or two of Death Valley Mine Road is very sandy in places, in addition to being slightly uphill
I keep losing momentum, so I resort to hiking the bike and enjoying the scenery. I'm surprised to find fresh tracks from two bicycles on this road, which are the first bicycle tracks I've ever noticed in Mojave National Preserve besides my own. I once passed a touring bicyclist on Kelbaker Road however; that was during trip here my 2006. - A brilliant display of desert mallow flowers marks the end of Death Valley Mine Road; I'll turn right here on the old Cima Road
It has taken me about 1.5 hours at my leisurely pace to traverse the 4.3 miles of scenic Death Valley Mine Road. Across the road is an old sign; I'll go take a look at it. - Well, the old sign isn't legible any more
I'm guessing that the sign had something to do with the old Death Valley Mine just up the road here. I'm headed toward the left end of the craggy New York Mountains ahead. - I start dragging the bike up the old Cima Road, which is turning out to be really sandy
I pause to take in the sun setting behind me over Cima Dome, which I never seem to tire of looking at: that perfect slight bulge on the horizon. - Ugh, the road is getting even sandier
If this deep sand continues, and it may, travel beyond here will be excruciatingly slow. It's already clear that I won't reach Butcher Knife Canyon, more than four miles away, by dark, so now the question is whether perhaps it's not a goal worth pursuing. - I look across the sand trap here and ponder the abandoned buildings at Death Valley Mine
I wish I had the time to explore this area; perhaps I should just call it a day and pull over somewhere nearby and set up camp. - I figure I may as well continue onward a little further and see if the deep sand lets up
So far the sand is still a problem, but I'll be taking a road to the left that leaves the sandy wash after a mile or so. Maybe it's worth continuing that far to see if the next road is any better. - Dragging the 10-ton bike through the sand is quite tiring and I'm expending a lot of energy here
This provides a perfect excuse to stop often and turn around to watch the gorgeous sunset over Cima Dome behind me. - For a few minutes, that famous orange light of desert sunset oozes across the land
I'm inching my way closer to the New York Mountains ahead. There's a little less sand in places, which is encouraging. Now I occasionally get to walk the 10-ton bike instead of drag it through sand. - The orange light of sunset vanishes as quickly as it appeared
This road is still a hopeless sand pit, but I've decided I might as well trudge along anyway. Really, it doesn't matter if it gets dark. I have a good headlight on my bike to guide me through the darkness to my destination and I would like to be near Butcher Knife Canyon for the hike that I have planned tomorrow. - Dusk at the top of Cima Road
I've just hiked the bike more than a mile up the sand of the old Cima Road beyond Death Valley Mine. I don't have much energy left, but I've survived just fine. I turn left at the road to Butcher Knife Canyon and I think I'm out of the sand, finally! - On the last leg of the trip toward Butcher Knife Canyon, I can actually ride some of the road
After dragging the bike through sand the last hour or so, walking the bike on packed earth now feels easy, and riding occasionally on the bumpy road at 8 miles per hour feels incredibly fast! Those lights way off in the distance: Las Vegas? - It's too dark now, so I ride and walk the final couple of miles slowly by headlight
I arrive at the old corral below Butcher Knife Canyon at around 20h45, hungry and exhausted. I can't figure out where to set up camp because goathead thorns and rabbit droppings seem to be everywhere. It feels like people rarely come here. My tires and shoes get encrusted with the thorns, yet I amazingly don't get a flat tire. Maybe it's time to sing the praises of my self-healing "slime"-filled bicycle tubes. The tent keeps trying to blow away while I set it up because there's so much wind up here. It takes me a while to get settled and I eventually prepare a pouch of Backpacker's Pantry "Chicken Cashew Curry," which is rather dull, but I'm hungry enough that I don't care. The wind is warm tonight, so I don't need to wear clothing in my sleeping bag to stay warm, for a change. In addition to the noise of the wind, and the occasional distant rumble of a freight train wafting up from the valley below, I hear a few crickets singing and a few moths flitting against the outside of my tent. Sometimes these noises calm down and all becomes incredibly quiet for a moment or two until the wind picks up again. It's very satisfying to have reached a somewhat remote destination that I thought I may not attain. My only problem may be water, since I drank six litres of my supply on the way here. I'll take inventory of that tomorrow. I fall asleep so easily, looking forward to waking up here in the morning to see what this place looks like by day. - Mojave National Preserve map, Day 6: Coyote Springs to Butcher Knife Canyon corral