Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / Spring 2011: Mojave National Preserve and area bicycle camping / Day 9: Summit Spring hike and Wild Horse Canyon bike ride, Mojave National Preserve 91
Last year, I did a hike in this scenic area, but didn't get as far as I hoped, so today I'll go the rest of the way to Summit Spring in the Providence Mountains. 7.1 hiking miles with about 2200 feet of elevation gain, plus 15.5 bicycle miles with about 1300 feet of elevation gain.
- Another beautiful morning at Mid Hills campground; it's nice to have a water supply, so I heat up water to wash myself
I don't always have the luxury of extra water for washing! It was less chilly last night, so I slept well. After a slow breakfast of coffee, granola, nuts and dried fruit, I pack the bicycle and ride to the Providence Mountains foothills for today's hike. - I stop at the water tap near my campsite at Mid Hills campground and fill up; I won't be passing any water holes today
Of course, I'm bringing along the usual items as well: maps, cell phone (which usually can't get reception), hiking hat, energy bars, epipens in case of a yellowjacket sting, bicycle tube and pump... - After leaving Mid Hills campground, I ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road and cross over this cattle guard
I'll be reminded soon that cows still graze in this area and that this cattle guard is not just a remnant from the past. - A pick-up truck passes me on Wild Horse Canyon Road, a major event
The lack of traffic on this road makes it a pleasure to ride. I always enjoy riding this part of Wild Horse Canyon Road with the high peaks of the Providence Mountains poking up in the distance. - As I ride down Wild Horse Canyon Road, a few cows start to cross, but I end up inadvertently chasing them
The cows have decided to stay on the road, and they run away from me, spooked. It's like I'm rounding them up on my bicycle! - After 5 minutes, the cows are still running down Wild Horse Canyon Road, with me chasing them on my bicycle
They ran briefly into the brush, but returned to the road immediately thereafter. It's funny to watch; cows don't run very gracefully! Is the earth here vibrating? - We come around a bend by Macedonia Canyon Road and start heading uphill; the cows aren't running quite so quickly anymore
And I'm not riding so quickly anymore either. Finally, the cows disperse into the brush and I pass by them as I continue riding along Wild Horse Canyon Road. Should this be called Wild Cow Canyon Road instead? - I continue riding down Wild Horse Canyon Road toward the Wild Horse Mesa area, watching for the easy-to-miss Bluejay Mine Road
A few puffy Desert thistles (Cirsium neomexicanum) grow along the road here. If I were camping at Hole-in-the-Wall campground, I would be much closer to today's hike, but I just don't like that campground as much as Mid Hills. - And there it is: Bluejay Mine Road; I leave Wild Horse Canyon Road here
I've been here a couple of times now, and it's a fun ride on a mountain bike: about 1.5 miles to the end of the road, which will be the trailhead for today's hike in the north end of the Providence Mountains - A short stretch of Bluejay Mine Road is in a sandy wash, and I'm glad it doesn't last too long
Four-wheel-drive vehicles can drive this easily enough, but it's just uphill enough that I occasionally lose traction and have to walk the bike a short distance. - Bluejay Mine Road gets a bit better after rising out of the sandy wash
It's slightly uphill, but has good traction here, so it's good mountain-bike riding again, at least for a few feet. - Like so many desert backroads, Bluejay Mine Road deteriorates as it approaches its end
Yes, this is a road! - Bluejay Mine Road ends here, so I stash my bike in the brush, lock it up, and begin today's hike
Before I begin climbing the big hill, I'll make a quick stop at the entrance to the old Bluejay Mine over there. - I take a look into the old entrance to the Bluejay Mine before I start climbing up the hill
Hey, I took this photo last year also, while hiking through this area. I take a peek inside the opening, but it doesn't go in very far. - A yellow-chested bird watches me begin the hike up the steep hill above Bluejay Mine
The branches of the tree may have burned during the 2005 brush fires here, but they still provide a nice perch. - My first stop on the way up the hill is the upper shaft opening to the Bluejay Mine
Some birds live here; they fly away when I approach. Presumably, this opening once communicated with the lower opening that I just visited. - Because the upper opening to the Bluejay Mine is treacherous, it's surrounded by barbed wire
I try to imagine how green this area used to look before the 2005 brush fires that swept through here. - I soon make it high enough up the hill to have a view across the Providence Mountains to the subtle curve of Cima Dome
Sprays of orange Desert mallow flowers contrast nicely with the brown soil and blue sky. - This hill in the Providence Mountains is a steep way to start a hike
My heart is pounding already. - A quick look back down the hill behind me confirms why my heart is pounding
Steep hills are a lot of work, but so rewarding... - I'm at a false summit here, with another 125 feet or so of climbing to reach this Providence Mountains summit
I'm already about 450 feet above the end of Bluejay Mine Road where I left my bike. Fast elevation gain for a bit less than 1/2 mile of distance! - I arrive at my Providence Mountains summit (Hill 1713) and take inventory of the 360-degree views
To the north here, I can see the general area of Wild Horse Canyon Road where I "herded up" the cows by bicycle on the way here. - From Hill 1713, I can see across Gold Valley to Twin Buttes and the Woods Mountains
The hill is steep enough that I can't even see where I left my bicycle below. - I turn on my cell phone up here on Hill 1713 in the Providence Mountains and get a signal, but...
The signal isn't strong enough to allow me to send a text message to confirm to people that I still exist. Bummer, I'll try again later. - From Hill 1713 in the Providence Mountains, I can see Macedonia Canyon Road down below to the northwest
I did a short hike down there in Macedonia Canyon two years ago. A couple of Mariposa lilies bloom here on the summit. - Also up here on Hill 1713 in the Providence Mountains are a few blue delphinium flowers
...and some orange Desert-mallow flowers too, of course. - My route ahead is the Providence Mountains saddle to the right; I pass through an old range fence here
I'm high enough to see part of the Kelso Dunes beyond the mountains. - When I hiked here last year, I dropped down into Beecher Canyon, below at left; but not this time
Today, I have more time, so I'm staying on the saddle here and heading up to the pile of rocks on the hill ahead, after which I'll hike down into Globe Canyon. - On this saddle in the Providence Mountains, I find the remains of a balloon
There's almost nothing left of this pink balloon. Did it bump into one the spiky cholla cacti up here upon landing? - Beecher Canyon, scenic and tempting, but I'll stay up here on the saddle a bit longer so I can hike down into Globe Canyon
My original plan was to camp at Providence Mountains State Recreation Area and hike up Beecher Canyon to here, but that campground is closed for repairs (and hopefully not forever, since it's now on the California State Parks future-closure list). - Hill 1624 in the Providence Mountains boasts a robust rock outcrop stacked in layers
Hamburger marketers would see this and imagine the world's tallest hamburger. - Hiding in the rocks on Providence Mountains Hill 1624 is a crushed "Bud Light" can
Isn't this location a bit high and remote for a "Bud Light" drinker? - Everything has been quiet, and I can see down to the tiny town of Kelso, when a low-flying helicopter passes overhead
After Mid Hills campground, I haven't seen anyone except for the pick-up truck on Wild Horse Canyon Road. The intrusion of a loud helicopter is weird, like surveillance. Flying low, I'm sure its occupants see me hiking, sole human here today. - As I descend into Globe Canyon, I can see over to the high points of the Providence Mountains
I haven't hiked up there yet; I think most of it is a bit steep for my comfort level. - A few bright-pink dudleya stems brighten up the landscape as I follow the ridge down into Globe Canyon
I'm going to descend into the gulley on the right. - I reach the bottom of one of the forks of Globe Canyon and look up at an old tailings pile
Many old mine sites dot this area and one could easily spend a day exploring them, instead of just hiking through the area as I'm doing. - As I arrive in Globe Canyon, I notice a few black-striped birds flitting about in a catclaw bush
They camouflage quite well amongst the grey branches. - I pass a small mine opening in Globe Canyon
That big tailings pile that I could see earlier is not far from here, up the hill. - Nearby in this fork of Globe Canyon is a small can dump
Signs of the past; yours to discover. - A short distance further down Globe Canyon is another old mine hole
Or maybe the hole is just a prospect and doesn't go very deep. - I continue down this fork of Globe Canyon and exit the Wilderness markers
I'm not expecting Wilderness markers here, so it's time for a map-and-GPS check. - It's also time for a chocolate energy bar in Globe Canyon while consulting the GPS
Despite the generally cool weather on this trip, it's quite a bit warmer down here in Globe Canyon, in the mid 80s. - I climb over a small hill to reach the main Globe Canyon Road, and discover a rock cairn on the hill
I saw a cairn earlier up on the hill before descending into Globe Canyon, so presumably I'm not the only person who ever hikes here. I try my cell phone on this hill, and get no reception (as expected). - I'm on Globe Canyon Road now, starting the uphill hike toward Summit Spring, and pass a couple of old trees, still alive
Most of the junipers and pines around here burned in the 2005 brush fires. The few that survived will hopefully provide seeds for new trees. - I pass an old sink while hiking up Globe Canyon Road
So, there may have been a building nearby at one time; I'll keep an eye out for the remains of one. - I pass another tailings pile along Globe Canyon Road
There are so many possible exploration side trips here, such as this, but I'm focused on my hike up to Summit Spring right now, so I continue up Globe Canyon Road without stopping. - Globe Canyon Road becomes rather indistinct after a while
This part of the road is still outside official Wilderness boundaries and can thus be driven, but it doesn't look like many motor vehicles come up here. - I turn a bend on Globe Canyon Road and have a short and steady uphill in front of me
A sole bright-red Indian paintbrush grows in the middle of the road (yes, this is a road). - Under a burnt tree, two plants try to trick me: the yellow flowers don't belong to the the green patch of foliage
The yellow flowers look like a Groundsel poking up through the leaves of a Desert four o'clock that isn't blooming yet. - Approaching Summit Spring, the now-faint Globe Canyon Road levels out
A few more junipers survived the 2005 brush fires in this area. I'm seeing cow manure more frequently, some of it quite fresh. - I'm almost at Summit Spring, but I notice a couple of stray balloons nearby; I take a short detour to look at them close-up
Happy Mother's Day! The folks who celebrated with these balloons probably can't imagine that the balloons ended up here in the Providence Mountains (where is the Providence Mountains anyway?). - Next to Summit Spring are the remains of a concrete foundation and, presumably, a building
There's nothing inside, just a tiny room that might have served as a good natural refrigerator. - I see a moist drainage channel nearby, which I presume comes from Summit Spring
I follow the moist track a short distance up the hill, hoping that Summit Spring will be up there somewhere. - Well, here it is, Summit Spring, Mojave National Preserve, a disgusting concentrate of cow shit and water
Usually, I like to linger at a desert spring and enjoy the specialness of moisture in a dry country. But not here at Summit Spring. The scent of the rotting cow shit is sickening in the hot sun and the flies buzzing around it are annoying. - I'm thirsty, but I wait until I get up the hill away from stinky Summit Spring before guzzling more water
I can still taste the stench of the Summit Spring cow shit below after breathing in its vapors for a few minutes. - I'm on the Providence Mountains ridge again, so I look to the south toward a hiking route as yet unexplored
If I were hiking from Providence Mountains State Recreation Area (my original plan), that would be my route. However, that park is closed this spring. Instead, I'm hiking in the opposite direction. - I'll follow the Providence Mountains ridge line to the left, then head right later to that high point at centre (Hill 1713)
I crossed over that high point (Hill 1713) earlier on my way here. - Numerous rock outcrops dot the Providence Mountains ridge line
Looking north here, with Columbia Mountain as the high point in the background. - I get a good view of Globe Canyon Road from above, which I just hiked on the way to Summit Spring
I would like to have seen what Globe Canyon looked like before the 2005 brush fires. - The little rock outcrops on the Providence Mountains ridge keep attracting my attention
Another great view down into Globe Canyon... - I take a look behind me at one of the spikes on the Providence Mountains ridge line that I just hiked over
A few burned trees here provide some scale. Awesome hike! - Over at the far right below Wild Horse Mesa is a thin line of trees where I hiked last year to get out of Beecher Canyon
It looks dry from here, but there's even a small spring over there, not marked on my maps. I called it Beecher Canyon Spring. - This outcrop on the Providence Mountains ridge line harbours a little cave
It's empty! - Another little cave on the Providence Mountains ridge line...
This one is also empty. - As I hike over another hump on the Providence Mountains ridge line, I arrive at a herd of resting cows
I've interrupted their rest, and they quickly get up and leave. - The cows saunter along the Providence Mountains hillside, toward where?
Maybe they'll climb down the other side of the hill toward Beecher Canyon Spring. I saw cows while hiking down in that area of Beecher Canyon last year. - These two juniper trees on the Providence Mountains ridge survived the 2005 brush fires, just barely
Both trees were apparently burned a bit, but not enough to kill them. Seeds for future trees will come from these survivors. - A few Desert trumpets (Eriogonum inflatum) grow on this part of the Providence Mountains ridge overlooking Beecher Canyon
...and flat-topped Wild Horse Mesa. - I look ahead and scope out my route along this part of the Providence Mountains ridge
I'll head upward along the spine to my left to attain the ridge, then hike to the right (east) along the ridge, overlapping my route into this area a while ago. - A turkey vulture, one of my favorite birds, flies overhead, reminding me that I'm alive
I'm always happy to see these scavengers. - As I climb a bit higher above Beecher Canyon, I pass through a field of Desert marigolds
It was around this spot during last year's hike out here that I started to head down into Beecher Canyon. - As I rise, I enjoy the views across Macedonia Canyon over to Cima Dome in the distance
This stand of trees didn't survive the 2005 brush fires... - Ooops! A yucca stabs me as I walk past it, the result of sloppy hiking!
Maybe this means I'm starting to get tired? It's a fairly strenuous hike and I have taken it fairly quickly. - Atop the steep hill I'm climbing is a piece of old range fence that I passed earlier today
Here's the view from earlier today of this Providence Mountains fence. - Zooming in really hard, I can see some of the rock turrets at Eagle Rocks, not far from tonight's home at Mid Hills campground
Wild Horse Canyon Road, my bicycle route home tonight, is visible at the right. - No, that's not a thin woman standing there taking in the views from the Providence Mountains...
... just another burnt tree-stump remnant from the 2005 brush fires. - I stumble across another rock cairn on my way back down to the Bluejay Mine area
Someone besides me obviously hikes here once in a while... My bike is down at the bottom of the hill ahead. - On the descent to Bluejay Mine, I run into a patch of Groundsel flowers
I haven't seen many of these today. - Another flowering plant I notice on the way down to Bluejay Mine is Rock pea (Lotus rigidus)
I also saw a few of these blooming in Saddle Horse Canyon yesterday. - I arrive back at my bike by the old Winkler's Cabin site by Bluejay Mine and find that it has a flat tire
Strange... I hate changing a flat tire, but this is one of the nicest and more relaxing places to do it. - My flat tire fixed, I start riding down Bluejay Mine Road on the way back to Mid Hills campground
I'm at just under 5000 feet elevation here. I'll drop down 300 feet or so during the next mile before beginning the largely uphill ride back to Mid Hills campground. - Bluejay Mine Road improves as it rolls downward, a most excellent mountain-biking road
It's only about 1.5 miles long, but with no traffic, it's perfect. - I ride up Wild Horse Canyon Road toward Columbia Mountain, just like last night, as the sun starts to dip behind the hills
Wild Horse Canyon Road is not a road I get tired of riding! I have a strong tailwind that is making the uphill easier than usual. I'm barely aware that I'm riding uphill. - A rabbit darts across Wild Horse Canyon Road and then stands still near the brush
He thinks I can't see him! I've seen many rabbits on this trip, but almost never manage to photograph them. - As I climb Wild Horse Canyon Road, I turn back for a look at the Providence Mountains peaks before they disappear
This is the area where I chased those cows earlier today! These peaks aren't that far away: it looks like haze is blowing in this evening. - I know I'm getting close to home when I ride past the right-turn sign on Wild Horse Canyon Road
The Eagle Rocks turrets near Mid Hills campground are getting closer. - A sunset ride up Wild Horse Canyon Road isn't complete without a glance over to Twin Buttes and Table Mountain
I think I've taken several versions of this photo during Mojave National Preserve previous trips! - I'm back at the Mid Hills campground entry kiosk at sunset, perfect timing!
It's actually a bit darker outside that it appears, but my cheap Canon camera overcompensates for lack of daylight. - The sun goes down at nearly-empty Mid Hills campground and I meet my new neighbors, Heather and Sarah
Supper is high-calorie Mountain House Rice and Chicken, a comforting end to a strenuous day. I meet Sarah and Heather while over at the water tap and we chat for a while; great people. I look forward to hanging out with them tomorrow on "my day off." It's cold and windy tonight, possibly the coldest night so far on this trip, so I wear all my clothes in my sleeping bag: sweater, outer shell long underwear, plus two pairs of socks. Brrr! But I'm quite tired from today's excursion and fall asleep easily around midnight. - Summit Spring hiking route elevation profile
7.1 hiking miles with about 2200 feet of elevation gain, plus 15.5 bicycle miles with about 1300 feet of elevation gain - Summit Spring hiking route and Wild Horse Canyon bicycle ride
7.1 hiking miles with about 2200 feet of elevation gain, plus 15.5 bicycle miles with about 1300 feet of elevation gain (bicycle route in red).