Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2009, Spring: Mojave National Preserve / Day 10: Nipton to Black Palisades and back hike, Mojave National Preserve 42
The thermometer hits 90 degrees today. Nipton is just a few feet from the northern boundary of Mojave National Preserve, but most of today's short hike is actually within the Preserve's borders.
"Black Palisades," as I call it, is a dark outcrop about three miles up the fan from Nipton toward the Mid Hills. I noticed it while riding down the nearby power-line road during last year's Mojave National Preserve trip. Presumably volcanic in origin, it stands out in relation to the nearby hills due to its dark colour.
6.5 hiking miles from Nipton to Black Palisades and back during 3.75 hours, with 700 feet of elevation gain (and loss). I carry six litres of water with me and drink two.
- Last night's light rain never became heavy; now I enjoy the shade of the eucalyptus trees during the warm morning at Nipton
After the big meal and beer last night, I fell asleep easily around 22h45 and even the trains passing by during the night barely woke me up. Around 3h, however, I woke up to the sound and feel of light rain. After mounting the outer shell on my tent to keep the rain from coming in, I listened to the crickets singing until I finally got back to sleep around 4h30. A bird started whistling at about that hour, which at first sounded human (why would someone be walking around Nipton at this early hour whistling; in the downtown San José ghetto where I live, this kind of insanity would be normal). Next thing I know, I'm rolling over to check the time and it's 8h45. I rush over to the café, hoping that I didn't miss breakfast, and Bill cooks me a tasty omelet with shrimp and Asian vegetables. And I drink two cups of coffee to wake up. On the way over to the café I chat with Federico, from Italy, who stayed at the bed-and-breakfast last night. - After breakfast, I take a shower and explore the rustic garden in front of the bed-and-breakfast
What a luxury it is to take a morning shower after more than a week of tent camping! The steering wheel on a post is a memorial for a guy named Ken Trongo: "let's see where this road goes." - In the middle of the Nipton garden is an area built of coloured rocks
Trains still pass on the tracks just behind the garden, like they've done for the past 100 years, but they don't stop here any more. - I stop in at the Nipton store to pay for another night of camping before walking past the tent cabins to start today's hike
At the Nipton store, I drink an Arizona iced tea for an additional sugar-and-caffeine boost, then I'm on my way. - One last thing: I stop at the outdoor sink at Nipton to refill my water bottles before heading out
I bring six litres of water with me today, but will only drink about two of those. - Today I'm hiking over to "Black Palisades" (it has no official name): that dark rocky mound in the distance
It's already 90 degrees, so an easy hike is a perfect way to take a "day off," while still exploring the area a little. I noticed Black Palisades while riding down the nearby powerline road during last year's Mojave National Preserve trip and thought it would be a good destination for an easy hike some day. - Just southeast of Nipton lies this bunker-like concrete foundation
I don't know what this was, but it looks like there may have been a structure built on top of it. - A concrete stairwell and heavy steel door lead into the basement
Whatever this was, a lot of time and effort was spent on building it. In the distance is the pass near Crescent Spring on Highway 164, just inside the Nevada State line. - Further beyond, I stumble across what appears to be part of an old automobile dashboard
I don't see an old abandoned car nearby, however. - A substantial can dump on the outskirts of Nipton
I spend a few minutes walking around the piles of hundreds, if not thousands, of rusty tin cans, looking to see if there's anything I can identify here. - Here's an old rusty lid from a tobacco tin, perhaps Copenhagen snuff
The inscription reads "United States Tobacco." Seeing a Copenhagen lid always makes me happy. - At the junction of two old roads, I take the one that heads off to my left, toward the Mid Hills
This road will eventually cross the power-line road in the distance. It is on my maps, but I didn't notice passing it when I rode down the power-line road during last year's Mojave National Preserve trip. Black Palisades is visible at the left edge of this photo. - The old road out of Nipton is marginal at best and is a bit washed out in places, but it makes a great trail
This road is not in a Wilderness area, and while it doesn't seem to get much automobile use, tracks indicate that some dirt bikers enjoy this route occasionally. - I leave the primitive road and start walking cross-country toward Black Palisades
I pass my first barrel cactus of the day; these don't grow in lower valley elevations such as Nipton. - I reach the power lines about a half mile before Black Palisades
The spires of the Castle Peaks in the northern Mid Hills poke up in the background. I haven't made it to Castle Peaks on any of my Mojave National Preserve trips yet. - I cross the power-line road and stare at its thread leading up the hill into the distance, toward Cima
I took a similar photo of these Mojave power lines during last year's Mojave National Preserve trip. - Here it is, Black Palisades, about a quarter mile in front of me
I'm about 400 feet above Nipton here. This isn't very high up, but it is 90 degrees this afternoon and there's no shade to be had anywhere, so hiking needs to be done at a leisurely pace. - I stumble across a faint trace of an old road that passes by the west edge of Black Palisades
I wonder when this road was last used by a motor vehicle. Black Palisades itself is just to my left. - I walk up toward the closest turret of Black Palisades
I'm not feeling too ambitious in today's 90-degree heat, so I probably won't attempt to walk across the entire ridge of Black Palisades. - I discover a dry tinaja (Spanish for "water jar") at Black Palisades with fairly fresh scat adjacent
This tinaja probably holds water during much of the year, a relief to the wildlife in this otherwise dry area with no natural springs. - A nearby alcove in the rocks at Black Palisades harbours nesting materials rather than a tinaja
I'll guess that this is a rat nest, but I really don't know. I would be very surprised to learn that it's a bird nest. - OK, I'll climb a little higher up Black Palisades, just a little further
Though I'm feeling quite lazy today, I could easily be coaxed into exploring the nooks and crannies of this area for an hour or two. - More volcanic-looking rock on Black Palisades, Mojave National Preserve
Even though this area is so close to Nipton, it doesn't appear that many people venture out this way. - Looking down toward Nipton, I see a dust devil making its way across the fan
Indeed, the wind has picked up this afternoon, and it keeps trying to blow the hat off my head. - I rest here on the west side of Black Palisades for a few minutes
With Castle Peaks behind me, I drink warm water and eat a Clif bar; I need more energy. - Nice view from here at Black Palisades toward Cima
Tomorrow I'll ride up Morning Star Mine Road and over that pass; I rode down that way yesterday to get to Nipton. - Nearby, I discover some bones in a nest huddled in the rocks
Do I smell a rat? - There's a lot more to explore here, but I'm lazy today and walk back down the slope of Black Palisades
I want to walk over to a nearby mound to catch the views from there. - I walk up the low mound just south of Black Palisades
This non-volcanic mound is just 50 feet or so above the surrounding terrain, so it barely registers on my topo maps. - The mound is just high enough to provide nice views of Black Palisades and the surroundings
Well, I guess I'll start the three-mile walk back to Nipton. - I walk down the mound to an adjacent wash and start heading back toward the power lines on the Nipton return hike
This is the first time that I've hiked in the Nipton area and, though not as dramatic as the mountainous areas that I seem to prefer, I feel like there's more for me to explore on foot around here. - Crossing the power-line road on the way back to Nipton
The 90-degree heat today in the Ivanpah Valley is moderating my energy level, but, with plenty of water, that's fine for a leisurely hike like this. - I stop to touch the rocky ground beneath me on the way back to Nipton
The ground is quite a bit hotter than the air. My hiking boots are doing a good job at insulating my feet from the heat of the rocky terrain. - The outer shell of a coyote gourd near Nipton
It looks like someone had a feast eating the gourd's contents. - I think this is a pencil cholla cactus, near Nipton, Mojave National Preserve
I haven't noticed many of these on this trip. - This area on the fan just south of Nipton is clearly subject to occasional flooding during heavy rains
Probably not a great place to set up a tent if there is any possibility of rain during the coming hours... - I'm almost back at Nipton when my direct route is foiled by this weak barbed-wire fence, but it's easy to get past
I wonder if maybe this delineates the Nipton town property (my understanding is that most of the town is one parcel of land belonging to one owner). - Back in the shade of the tent, I settle in for beer from the Nipton store and a makeshift cooler of ice plus plastic bag
I also buy a copy of Edward Abbey's "Desert Solitaire" novel at the Nipton store. Depending on the direction of the wind, the septic field by my tent is quite smelly at times. I probably shouldn't have set up my tent so close to it, but it's the corner of the tent-camping area that gets the deepest shade. Supper is a big tasty pork chop (Bill's last one) with fries and salad from the Nipton café. I chat again with two women who were also here during my trip last year (on biology projects), one of whom brings a delicious cherry pie for Bill's birthday! - Later in the evening, I rinse off in Nipton's dirt-floor semi-outdoor showers and wash some clothes in the two-washer laundromat
There are a lot of water bugs around my tent, apparently living in the adjacent septic field. A few of them get into the shower building, which more squeamish campers might not like. - The Nipton hot tub was repaired today, so I try it out later in the evening
Unfortunately, the repair man left the heat on, and I decide after a few minutes that it's too hot for me tonight. The short soak is pleasant anyway. Just as I'm falling asleep in the tent, I hear loud yipping over by the train tracks, like a dog in pain, which lasts at least half a minute. A coyote? I fall asleep anyway. - Nipton to Black Palisades hike route (Day 10)
6.5 miles and 700 feet elevation gain (and loss). - Nipton to Black Palisades hike elevation profile (Day 10)
6.5 miles and 700 feet elevation gain (and loss).