Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / Spring 2011: Mojave National Preserve and area bicycle camping / Day 15: Pinto Valley, Mojave National Preserve, to Primm via New York Mountains, Ivanpah Road and Nipton by bicycle 76
Today's ride to end the trip is mostly downhill and so scenic. I get to ride five miles on a new-to-me rough backroad that I'll call the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off. 46.5 bicycle miles and about 2700 feet of elevation loss.
- High winds overnight at Pinto Valley kept me from getting much sleep on this final night of the trip: miserable
I've been awake half the night, due to the high winds, and now I'm up for good at 6h, way too early for me. I'm looking forward to today's 47-mile ride back to Primm, Nevada, but hope I won't conk out due to lack of sleep and energy. - I dig one final cat hole in Pinto Valley and no flies drop by to disturb me while I fill it up
I hope all these dark clouds floating past won't turn into rain. It's chilly this morning and I keep my heavy clothes on. I have no idea what the weather forecast is. - My tent threatens to blow away while I pack it up one last time (until the next trip, of course)
Since I'm up so early today, and sleep-deprived, I have three cups of instant Starbucks coffee (instead of the usual two) with my granola-and-dried-apricots breakfast. I have almost no food left; this wouldn't be a good day for a breakdown! - Everything is packed up and I'm almost ready to leave Pinto Valley after four nights here
It's chilly enough this morning that I'm wearing my long underwear and bandana while packing, even though these activities generate heat. - I leave my Pinto Valley campsite at 5650 feet elevation and start coasting down Howe Spring Road around 9h
It doesn't look downhill, but I'll drop almost 400 feet during the first two miles. Best of all, that strong, nasty wind is now my friend, since I have it behind me. I especially like this because I didn't get much sleep last night. - I keep looking back at the ominous clouds behind me as I ride down Howe Spring Road
I managed to miss the rain showers that passed through this area during day 4 of this trip, and I'm hoping I'll be as lucky today, should some rain materialize. - I stop to check out the remains of an old building along Howe Spring Road
An old cabin? An old outbuilding? - My route ahead will take me across Watson Wash
I may have to walk the bike up part of that short steep hill on the way out of the wash. - I'm on New York Mountains Road now, and this part of it squiggles toward Drum Peak
Hmmm... could Drum Peak be a future hiking destination? - On New York Mountains Road, I notice strange noises coming from the 10-ton bike, so I pull over to see what's wrong
A couple of bolts on my old Jandd saddlebags have loosened, so I tighten them, which I don't think I've done before. These bags have served extremely well over the years. From here, I can still see Table Mountain over on the other side of the valley. - I pass a few little roads in this scenic area at the foot of the New York Mountains near Carruthers Canyon
I camped near here back in 2006, thinking I was in Carruthers Canyon. I was nearby, but not quite there! - I turn off on an unnamed road, which I'll call the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off, and leave the better New York Mountains Road behind
I haven't been down this road before, so I'm not sure what to expect, but it appears to be traveled fairly often. - The Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road passes through a stand of juniper trees as it begins its gentle descent
I'm at about 5175 feet elevation here, and it will be mostly gentle downhill for the rest of the day. - I reach a junction on the five-mile-long Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road
I start riding down the right fork, then decide I should check my maps, in case my intuition is wrong. Yes, my intuition is wrong; I turn back and take the left fork instead. - Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road is rather rough in places
... but it's a pretty nice ride on a mountain bike, at least in the downhill direction, even fully loaded with all my travel gear. - Much of the landscape along Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road seems to be quite pristine
Tufts of grass provide ground cover in the open areas between joshua trees. - I can see across the eastern end of Lanfair Valley over to the Castle Peaks area, where I spent a few days last week
Miles of joshua trees... Not as dense as the joshua-tree forest in the Cima Dome area, but still, miles of joshua trees. - It's time for a short break to enjoy the solitude of Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road without the noise of the 10-ton bike
I've ridden just over three of the five miles of this road, and haven't seen anyone else yet today. I'm enjoying my dried-apricot snack, which is one of the few food items I have left. - Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road rolls over many low humps, since it cuts across drainage areas from the New York Mountains
I still have the strong Mojave winds pushing me from behind, which makes the ride out here in the middle of nowhere on the 10-ton bike even better. - A few short slopes with loose rock on the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off road force me to get off the bike and walk a bit
I don't mind; it's so enjoyable out here listening to the silence. - Looking back behind me, I can see all the way across Lanfair Valley to flat-topped Table Mountain
It's always nice to look back see the distances that one has covered by pedal-power. - Great views from here across the joshua-tree forest to the New York Mountains peaks
So many little canyons up there to be explored, some day perhaps... - My five-mile ride across the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off road comes to an end when I reach the bigger Ivanpah Road
I haven't seen another person yet today (nor during the past few days), but I'll likely be passed by the occasional car here on Ivanpah Road. - Ivanpah Road is wide and gravelly
Sometimes, the rough surface provides good traction, but too much loose gravel sometimes makes for an unstable ride. Glad I have fat tires. My mind drifts while riding here and songs get stuck in my head, such as Marc Almond's Jacques Brel covers. - I pull over on Ivanpah Road to check out a couple of Phacelias (Desert canterbury bells) in bloom
There's not much colour here except for green and brown, so these stand out (though I probably wouldn't notice them if I were speeding by in a motor vehicle). I see my first motor vehicle of the day: I exchange waves with the passing pick-up driver. - A couple of cars pass me along Ivanpah Road
The drivers are probably wondering what I'm doing way out here, and I wonder the same about them. - I turn down a side road, just to see what's there, and find this old shot-up car
Time for a closer look! - Not only is the old car (1940s?) well-shot-up, but it's well-buried in sand
I guess this is a good example of how much sand flows down a drainage wash in the New York Mountains area over 50+ years... - Nice view from the driver's seat!
The question is always the same: "Why was this car abandoned in this particular place?" - I walk over to that old headframe, or whatever it is, with the New York Mountains backdrop
...and how old is that big juniper tree anyway? - I spot a tiny bit of blue in the landscape!
A little lupine. - Some of the bunch grasses in this high valley are quite bushy
Any critters hiding in there? - I return to the task of riding back to Primm, Nevada and have views of the Castle Peaks from this part of Ivanpah Road
I spent a few good days in that area earlier during this trip; it seems so far away already. - As I ride past Barnwell, I have to take another photo of the lined-up junked cars
I've photographed this several times over the years. It's a bit different every time! - This segment of Ivanpah Road follows the old railway grade from 100 years ago, and thus cuts right through the hills
Most of the abandoned railway grade today serves as a hiking or 4WD trail. I hiked a segment of the old Ivanpah railway grade on day 6 of this trip. - An uphill car passes me as Ivanpah Road begins its descent into Ivanpah Valley
I'm starting to gain some speed as I coast downhill. - I recognize the Bathtub Spring Peaks area as I ride down Ivanpah Road
I hiked up there behind the big hill ahead on day 6 of this trip. Apparently, not many people do. Awesome area. - I pause briefly along Ivanpah Road when I pass the dirt track leading up to Bathtub Spring, where I hiked on day 6
I was up on "Bathtub Spring Peak" in the middle of this photo, and descended the canyon at centre-right to this area. - In today's cool weather, I'm wearing my windbreaker over my sweater as I descend slowly into Ivanpah Valley
The cool weather I've experienced on this trip has been a real plus. It's often getting quite warm here at this time of year, which is why most of the trip was planned for the higher, cooler elevations. I'm at about 4400 feet elevation right now. - On the west side of Ivanpah Road, I can see roads leading up the hillsides in the Slaughterhouse Spring area
That's another part of the New York Mountains that I have yet to visit. - Downhill I ride toward Ivanpah Valley
Because the road is rather rough, I'm only riding at a relaxing 10-15 miles per hour. - Buckwheats are still flowering along this stretch of Ivanpah Road
I remember seeing quite a few buckwheats while hiking in this area along the old railway grade a week ago. - I arrive at the beginning of the pavement on Ivanpah Road
I'm getting a little closer to civilization. - Down there in the middle of Ivanpah Valley is a homestead
I've often been intrigued by that place while travelling out here. - It's fun to be on pavement again for a change, even if it's only for 2.5 miles: especially since it's downhill
This pavement on Ivanpah Road is the first pavement I've ridden in over a week and I reach 20 miles per hour along here. A strong headwind here is preventing me from riding faster. - As I approach the train tracks, I pass the old Ivanpah General Store
This building often gets used by squatters, as I learned when I visited Ivanpah General Store in 2008 and Ivanpah General Store in 2010. - At the Ivanpah Road railroad crossing, I make a right turn toward Nipton on the dirt road (Nipton-Moore Rd) that hugs the tracks
The paved route to Nipton, straight ahead, is longer, smoother, and perhaps faster, but the slow dirt road along the tracks is more relaxing, and pretty much free of cars. - Lonely Nipton-Moore Road dips down to cross numerous drainage washes as it crosses the desert alongside the train tracks
The train tracks however are on raised bridges to keep them from washing away during flood periods. - I have almost 20 miles to ride on this road until I reach Primm and end the day (and this year's trip)
I've got the road all to myself, except for the occasional passing train. Of course, I might encounter a motor vehicle also. - I pass another of these railway bridges and this one has a sandy road running under it, toward Willow Wash
If I were to hike far enough up there, I'd eventually join my Willow Wash hiking route from day 6 of this trip. - Hmmm... it looks like some light rain is falling further over in Ivanpah Valley
I hope this doesn't turn into a brief rainstorm for me. - Nipton-Moore Road rises over a few mounds, and from this one, I can see over to a small outcrop I've nicknamed 'Black Palisades'
I did a short hike from Nipton over to Black Palisades in 2009. - This road is not maintained...
One sees these signs out here in the Mojave Desert here and there. - I think I'm riding right into that cloudy area...
Will I get wet before I make it to my next stop at Nipton? - Just another three miles, and I'll arrive at Nipton for my rest stop
I ride under the power lines and watch Nipton get closer as I pedal on. - My dirt road crosses the paved Nipton Road, where I get off to visit the general store
It's right there, just on the other side of the train tracks. - I stop at Nipton for a relaxing 1.5 hours; I eat vegetable chips and have some liquid refreshment
Nipton is a nice little outpost of civilization and I've camped and showered here many times over the years. I last stopped here two weeks ago, to fill up my water supply on the first day of this trip. - The café at Nipton is closed right now due to plumbing problems
I'm looking forward to it being open again the next time I pass through. Unfortunately, the previous café operator (Bill), enjoyed by many of us visitors, passed away last year. - I guess I need to leave Nipton and get on with the final leg of this trip
The refreshments and relaxation have been good. I've also had a few good chats with people visiting the store, as well as with the gal working here (who I've seen several times over the years). - I'm back on the train-track road, but this time a few miles of it are paved, and called Nipton-Desert Road
I have about 12 miles to go until I reach Primm. - I cross the cattle-guard on Nipton-Desert Road
I remember riding over that on the first day of this trip... - It looks like a few rainy patches are moving around out in the middle of Ivanpah Valley
I've been watching them for the past couple of hours, but I haven't had any contact with them. - I zoom in behind me for a final glance at the Castle Peaks area of the New York Mountains
They're falling further and further behind me. It's already been more than a week since I spent three nights camping and hiking up near those pinnacles. - The pavement on Nipton-Desert Road ends at private property and the road turns sharply left to cross under the train tracks
This location is called Desert, California. As far as I can tell, this settlement only has this one house. - Nipton-Desert Road crosses under the train tracks at the one-house settlement of Desert, California
It will continue to parallel the train tracks all the way to the area of Primm, Nevada. - I keep looking back at the murky clouds over upper Ivanpah Valley toward Cima and the New York Mountains
Looks like virga, but not rain, over there. I guess I'm not going to get rained on today after all. - Nipton-Desert Road comes out from under a few dark clouds as I ride toward Primm
7.5 miles to go... I've been seeing a few jackrabbits as I ride along here. - Vehicles on the I-15 freeway, on the other side of Ivanpah Valley, glisten as the setting sun peers through the clouds
The upper hills in the background, at the end of the Clark Mountain Range, glow lightly. - From here, I can see back to the New York Mountains ridge line where I hiked yesterday (Cliff Canyon Springs Peaks)
I was up on one of the high points in the right third of this photo. - It's always fun when a train passes by while riding these trackside roads in the Mojave Desert
Quite often, the conductor will see me and wave; I wave back, of course. - Well, there's Primm, Nevada just ahead; I guess this year's trip is officially over
The paradox is that I'm happy to be approaching my destination for the day, with some much-needed relaxation ahead tonight, but this casino-wasteland freeway off-ramp shopping mall with cookie-cutter chain stores isn't my idea of an interesting place. - Back on the pavement of Primm, Nevada, where I started two weeks ago
Those silly palm trees, a town aspiring to be something it isn't. - There's Whiskey Pete's Casino and Hotel on the other side of the freeway, where I'll spend this last night; trip over!
A charming gal checks me in for my hotel room. I exude the heavy scent of desert plants mixed with body odour, after 10 days without a shower. She wonders if someone nearby is wearing some kind of interesting herbal perfume. Maybe I don't smell quite as bad as I think I do, or maybe she's just trying to be nice. Tomorrow morning, an Amtrak bus will pick me up here and take me to the San Joaquin train in Bakersfield. - Tomorrow morning, an Amtrak bus will deliver me to the train in Bakersfield, which passes through fields of roses in Wasco
I always enjoy the Amtrak bus ride from the Mojave Desert to Bakersfield (with a stop at Panda Express in the Barstow Station food court for a filling rice plate; I'm hungry!). The Amtrak San Joaquin train up California's Central Valley is a nice way to end a trip. - Elevation profile of Pinto Valley to Primm, Nevada bicycle route via Ivanpah Road
46.5 bicycle miles and about 2700 feet of elevation loss. - Pinto Valley to Primm, Nevada bicycle route via Ivanpah Road
46.5 bicycle miles and about 2700 feet of elevation loss.