Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / Spring 2011: Mojave National Preserve and area bicycle camping / Day 2: McCullough Mountains hike, South McCullough Mountains Wilderness, Nevada 79
Day hike into the McCullough Mountains to two unnamed peaks (6557 and 6425) from a campsite near Pine Spring. I was hoping to do this hike last spring, but ran out of time. 9.2 hiking miles plus about 2200 feet of elevation gain.
I'll drink a bit more than two litres of water, and see a bluejay, a few lizards, and a couple of jackrabbits. Otherwise, the day will be rather quiet critter-wise. I won't see any people today.
- One nice thing about my Pine Spring campsite is a little sandy drainage area near my tent, perfect for a cat hole
In so many places out here, it can be really hard to dig a hole in the rocky desert soil. - Waking up after the first night of a camping trip is always special; I've finally arrived. It was chilly overnight and I'm feeling exhausted from yesterday. I was so tired that I didn't wake up once during the night. It always takes a few days to build u
Waking up after the first night of a camping trip is always special; I've finally arrived. It was chilly overnight and I'm feeling exhausted from yesterday. I was so tired that I didn't wake up once during the night. It always takes a few days to build up stamina. I was comfortable sleeping with my sweater and long underwear on in the sleeping bag, plus my thin summer pants. I even used the hood on my sleeping bag to keep my head warm! - Gold flowers growing in the gravel near my tent, which I think at first are goldfields (Lasthenia californica)
However, these are Eriophyllum wallacei (Wallace's Woolly Daisy). I haven't seen a lot of wildflowers yet, perhaps I'll see more on today's hike up into the McCullough Mountains. - I start today's hike after a slow breakfast and notice an old coconut-juice can by Pine Spring Road
This is different... usually the discarded cans I find in the desert tend to be of the "Bud Lite" variety. Breakfast was granola and tamari almonds, a combination I usually like, but I guess I'm not used to dry low-fat camping food yet. I'll get used to it soon enough! - My energy is really low this morning as I start walking up the road toward the McCullough Mountains
A mature juniper grows almost in the road ahead. My two cups of coffee (Starbuck's instant Tribute Blend) a short while ago don't seem to be providing much of a kickstart. My cup of vitamin-C drink doesn't seem to have helped much either. - There are also a few old pinyon pine trees along Pine Spring Rd: not a surprise given the name of this place
It's not even a hot day, but I'm already appreciating the brief shade as I hopefully get warmed up for this hike. The road is quite sandy in places, so I'm glad I didn't bother dragging the 10-ton bike any further last night. - A few healthy barberry bushes grow along Pine Spring Road
Though lush-looking and green, this plant has tough, prickly leaves that you don't really want to brush up against. - I must be near Pine Spring; here's an old rusty tobacco can lid
Copenhagen satisfies! - I'm surprised to find a trough at Pine Spring, overflowing with water of decent quality; a few bees are living on the margins
I was expecting a dry, or semi-dry, spring here, not a developed one. I've brought enough water with me to this area, but it's nice to know that there's more in case of an emergency. - The Pine Spring water trough is inside a corral, which is apparently still in use by cows
However, I haven't seen any cows around here yet. - A bit beyond the Pine Spring corral is an old water trough and a rusty water tank
It appears that a smaller water trough was installed inside the larger one when it rusted out. - I've hiked two miles up Pine Spring Road, which ends here, so I climb a hill to get oriented for the day's off-trail hiking
There is almost a trail here in places, probably an animal trail, but perhaps not. People do visit this area, as told by the fresh tire tracks on the road below. - From this hill above Pine Spring, I see a possible route to the McCullough Mountains ridgeline straight ahead, a bit to the left
This route would probably be fine, but I decide to dip down into a wash at my right to pick up one of the routes that I prerecorded in my GPS. - Out of nowhere, a grasshopper pops into the air and lands nearby
This is one well-camouflaged insect... - A few mariposa lilies are blooming on this hill above Pine Spring
Despite their brilliant color, I rarely notice insects in these flowers. - On the way down to the wash, a patch of ankle-high cacti requires careful avoidance hiking
This is my first desert hike of the year, so I'm still getting reacquainted with the zigzagging hiking style often required in order to avoid the prickly stuff. - I arrive in the sandy wash and prepare to climb the hill on my left, on my way toward one of the McCullough Mountains peaks
I've just lost 275 feet elevation in the half-mile downhill walk to here from that hill above Pine Spring behind me. - Diminutive chia sages grow in the wash here
Though easy to miss while hiking, you know when you've brushed up against these by the rich sage scent that they emit. - Some larger desert sage bushes (probably Salvia dorrii) are also blooming in this wash
It's funny how these plants grow in sand and gravel in order to stay dry, and yet they like these drainage washes that occasionally get very wet for short periods of time. - I take note of this light-pink Mojave Desert native thistle: Cirsium neomexicanum
These flowers are most commonly white in the parts of the Mojave Desert that I visit, but I understand that the pink variety is more common in other areas. This plant is not a nuisance weed like the non-native thistles. - I check my GPS again and begin the climb into the McCullough Mountains, straight up this hill
I think the plant covering most of the hill is blackbrush (Coleogyne ramosissima). It's quite rigid and somewhat thorny, another plant that you want to walk around. - At the top of the blackbrush hill, I turn around for a moment to enjoy the views back down into Piute Valley
I still don't have much energy, but I've made it this far just fine. I'm almost at 5600 feet elevation here, whereas my campsite is down around 4915 feet. - Atop the blackbrush hill, I check out the upward route ahead to the McCullough Mountains ridgeline
The steep parts of some of the hills sometimes hides the less-steep stretches further ahead. - A rock outcrop atop the hill ahead is my next target
It looks like the summit from this viewpoint, but it isn't. - Nice views back down into Piute Valley from the rock outcrop
Elevation here is approximately 5725 feet. - Now that I'm above the rock outcrop, I can see the next hill on my way up the McCullough Mountains
I continue up that hill at left in the photo, toward the ridge in the background. - I walk past some banana yuccas and toward a stand of joshua trees on my way up this next McCullough Mountains hill
I haven't noticed many joshua trees growing at this rather high-elevation area (approx. 5725 feet). - Time for another energy bar, already, on my way up into the McCullough Mountains
I'm looking for excuses to stop and enjoy the views! I'm feeling so lazy today. - A few red penstemons are flowering today in the McCullough Mountains
This is probably a penstemon centranthifolius. - This steep, rocky hillside in the McCullough Mountains provides good footing on the way up
However, sporadic small cacti, easy to miss, require my attention. - A couple of claret-cup cacti are blooming on this McCullough Mountains hillside
These are the first that I've seen today. - Finally, I reach a point from which the remainder of my route uphill is visible, following the rising ridge at centre-left
The high point, toward which I'm headed, is McCullough Mountains unnamed peak 6557. Time to switch into high gear and march onward. - OK, climb up that hill, now!
Finally, a bit of energy is kicking in; perhaps it's the energy bar or just sheer inspiration as I get closer to the McCullough Mountains ridge. I'm at about 6250 feet elevation here. - After climbing that last short steep hill... now the McCullough Mountains peak 6557 is right in front of me
I'm not sweating as much as I would expect, due to the cool winds up here high in the hills. - Almost there... Peak 6557 is that hill ahead to my right
I'm at about 6400 feet elevation here. Walk around that juniper tree, and up I go... - A pile of rocks sits upon McCullough Mountains unnamed peak 6557
I look around in case there is a register to sign. I'm not expecting one (and don't find one), presuming that most hikers would be attracted to the slightly taller McCullough Mountain, 1.3 air miles away. - I sit on McCullough Mountains Peak 6557 for a good 15 minutes and enjoy the views
My cell phone works up here, so I send a couple of text messages and turn the phone off. I've never seen Ivanpah Dry Lake from this viewpoint before. With each new Mojave Desert hike, my visual understanding of the area increases. - Looking to my right, I see the high point of this range, McCullough Mountain, at just over 7000 feet
I originally thought I might have time to hike all the way up there and back in daylight, but I would have needed to start out a bit earlier, or follow a more direct route. - I bet the valley below, between here and the Lucy Gray Mountains in the middleground, would be an interesting place to explore
The wind up here is strong and almost cold. High winds have been forecast for the next few days out here. Aside from the sound of the wind, it's peaceful up here. I haven't seen any people yet today. - Looking way off into the distance, I can see a snow-capped mountain, which I presume is Charleston Peak near Las Vegas
It's cool enough up here on this low peak; the idea of having contact with snow right now doesn't appeal. - I'm hoping to continue hiking along the ridge, but it looks like there may be a drop-off beyond those two junipers
I walk over to check out a possible descent route. - It's quite steep, but I conclude that I should be able to wind my way down the hill safely, and stay on the ridge line
The steepest part near the top has some large rocks that looks like they should provide good support. - Once I get past the crazy, steep and rocky part at the beginning of the short descent, the rest is easy
Looking down makes me think it would be fun to ride the bottom of this hill on a mountain bike. The space between the junipers on the way down is like an old grown-in trail. - Phlox, cacti and pinyon pines on the McCullough Mountains ridge line
The phlox flowers are actually pale pink, but look white here. - I spy an old tree trunk on the McCullough Mountains ridge line
Probably the remains of an elderly juniper. - From this McCullough Mountains saddle, I can still see across the Lucy Gray Mountains to Ivanpah Dry lake and Clark Mountain
The sandy blotches beyond Ivanpah Dry Lake in front of the mountains is the huge Brightsource solar power plant. The north end of Ivanpah Valley is slowly becoming a big industrial park. - This banana yucca in the McCullough Mountains is getting ready to bloom
I think I missed the yucca-flower season in the lower areas, but up here at 6400 feet elevation, the blooms come a bit later. - This McCullough Mountains saddle also has great views eastward down to the Piute Valley
The large flowering bush in the foreground is probably antelope brush (Purshia tridentata). - From the saddle, I look back at McCullough Mountains Peak 6557
Looking back now, I can see why it seemed so steep coming down that hill. - I stop to look at a cactus growing in an unusual horizontal habit, one pad at a time
I carefully step over this one. - Cacti and a few blue phacelia flowers enjoy the shade under this pinyon pine in the McCullough Mountains
Unlike most of this area, this part of the saddle is almost level in places. - I almost missed these claret-cup cacti flowers under an old juniper while walking past
As is the case in most of this area, I'm not hiking in a straight line because I need to avoid trees, cacti and rocks... - The next marked point on my hike today will be McCullough Mountains unnamed peak 6425, the high point just ahead
I'm at about 6375 feet elevation now, and will drop down 50 feet just ahead. After that, it's only a climb of another 100 feet or so, vertically. - On the way up to Peak 6425 in the McCullough Mountains are a few rock piles
I hike around them rather easily. - I've seen this white flower before; I think it's Desert tobacco (Nicotiana obtusifolia)
It's the only one I've seen blooming today. - One last little climb up to McCullough Mountains Peak 6425
An easy climb, compared to the longer steeper stuff earlier today. - From McCullough Mountains Peak 6425, I look back at where I was earlier, on Peak 6557, center
The higher peak further left is probably the one called Peak 6841 on my maps and GPS. One could spend a lot of time hiking the many peaks in the McCullough Range. - McCullough Mountains Peak 6425 also has great views eastward across the Piute Valley
Hmmm... Since I won't have time to hike all the way to the high point of the range, I'll probably hike along the ridge visible at left, and then drop down into the wash below for the return hike to my tent. - I can still see a bit of the Ivanpah Dry Lake area from McCullough Mountains Peak 6425
I take a break here for a few minutes. The denuded juniper carcass in front of me makes me wonder if there was a forest fire here 50 or 100 years ago which burned that tree. - McCullough Mountains Peak 6425 marks a decision point as far as route-following is concerned
From here, I would veer to the left for the hike to the McCullough Mountain summit, or to the right to head back toward camp in the Pine Spring area. At this time of day, I'm opting for the right fork toward Pine Spring. - I'll start the hike back to camp by hiking up the hill at centre-left, then following the ridge down to the hill in the middle
The ridge line will slowly drop down into the valley, but I might climb down into a wash at some point. - This is one of the more scraggly pinyon pines I've come across today in the McCullough Mountains
I wonder if this tree was damaged by fire or some other event at some point in its life? These can apparently live for several hundred years. - About 10 minutes later, I notice a hillside that might make for a good descent down to a wash
Hiking the McCullough Mountains ridge line has been fun, but maybe I should explore a dry stream bed to end the hike. - I climb carefully down the steep hill, past the bunch grasses, blackbrush, and the occasional banana yucca
Weird photo: it may appear that I'm looking up at a hill, but I'm actually looking down into a gully. - I start hiking down the rock-strewn wash, which is like a staircase in a few places
Some of the gnarled juniper and pine trees down here are really big and old. - It's dry right now, but I can imagine a rush of water being funneled down this drainage during the wet season
I'm still at about 5750 feet elevation, so I have more downhill hiking ahead (the tent is down at about 4915 feet). - The wash begins to widen slightly, collecting sand that runs down from the McCullough Mountains
No fresh footprints here! - The wash continues to wind its way down from the McCullough Mountains
With fewer obstructions in the wash now, my hiking speed has picked up. Plus, I'm still headed downhill. - A primrose blooms in this McCullough Mountains wash near an old tree trunk
This is probably Oenothera caespitosa. - The star of most every desert-wilderness trip: the stray balloon
I stuff this into my backpack for later disposal; it's the only piece of litter I found in this McCullough Mountains wash. - I'm seeing some footprints in the sand now as I get closer to the Pine Spring area
I'm not seeing cow manure here, but I wouldn't be surprised to find cows in this area. - Another Palmer's penstemon starting to bloom
Pine Spring Road should be just up ahead somewhere around the bend. - I'm surprised to notice a few barrel cacti along Pine Spring Road on my way back to the tent
I didn't notice these when I walked past here earlier today and I didn't see many barrel cacti all day. - I have an easy one-mile walk down Pine Spring Road to finish off the day's hike
I climb up a small hill to check out a few barrel cacti growing by the road. - And there it is, home again for the night near Pine Spring, with a flowering beavertail cactus along the way
The return hike was faster than expected, so I'm home early. The wash I hiked was mostly clear, but hiking in some washes can be extremely slow due to plant growth. I had enough time to go a bit further up into the McCullough Mountains after all. - Time to boil water for this evening's instant meal: Mountain House Rice with Chicken (yum)
I'm fairly sheltered here from the high winds. Clouds rolled in during the day and the temperature seems to have dropped into the 50s or low 60s. The cool weather means that I haven't drank as much of the water in my 10-litre black water bag as expected. - After dark, I write notes in my journal and wind down as the evening gets progressively cooler
Thick cloud cover blocks most of the full moon tonight: bummer! Tonight I enjoy that extra bottle of Fat Tire beer that I bought at the Nipton store a couple of days ago. Is that muffled sound in the distance coyotes or cows? It's chilly again tonight, so I don all my clothes when I curl up inside the sleeping bag. I have a hard time falling asleep for some reason. Too much excitement, I think. - Elevation profile of McCullough Mountains hiking route from Pine Spring area
9.2 hiking miles plus about 2200 feet of elevation gain. - McCullough Mountains hike route from Pine Spring area
9.2 hiking miles plus about 2200 feet of elevation gain.