Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2010, Mojave National Preserve / Day 3: Kelso Peak area to Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, by bicycle 43
Kelso Peak area to Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, by bicycle. 37.8 bicycle miles, 3640 feet elevation gain.
- No sign of last night's rain; I'm up around 7h, have breakfast, then pack up leisurely for today's ride to Mid Hills campground
I didn't sleep well last night due to the howling winds. The sun is hot this morning, but the cool wind up here at 3700 feet keeps me refreshed while packing up. Still, I feel tired by the time I'm ready to leave! Hmmmm... I must not be 100% recovered from the light heat exhaustion from two days ago. I'm really enjoying the Starbucks instant Via coffee I brought, which I make in cool water. I'm not in the mood for anything hot this morning. It does taste a bit like instant coffee, but it still has some decent coffee flavour. - I walk my packed saddlebags back to the powerline road, assemble the 10-ton bike, then ride a short distance to reach pavement
When camping off-road like I did here, I always carry my bike so as to leave footprints, but no bicycle tracks. - Once back on the pavement of Kelbaker Road, I begin the always-wonderful 12-mile downhill to Kelso
The descent on the pretty patched pavement begins quite gradually; an occasional automobile passes by. - As I coast down Kelbaker Road, I glance often at Kelso Peak, where I hiked yesterday
There are plenty more hills in the Kelso Mountains to climb besides that one I went up. Maybe on a future visit... - An old-style power line follows Kelbaker Road as it descends past the Kelso Mountains toward Kelso
Usually I just ride down this hill non-stop because it's so fun, but I've decided today to stop and smell the desert a couple of times on the way down (as hard as it is to interrupt the descent). - I pull over on Kelbaker Road, with Kelso Peak still in view, and go for a short walk
A few cars pass by, and I make sure I have my camera out so that nobody thinks I've stopped here because of a mechanical breakdown. - I look across a patch of yellow desert senna flowers at the Mid Hills area in the distance, my destination today
I recognize many landmarks in the Mid Hills, such as Eagle Rocks, the sharp points in the distant centre of this photo. The Mid Hills campground, where I'll camp during the next few nights, sits just behind that. - A little further down Kelbaker Road, I stop again to look at a desert senna with dodder growing in it
Dodder is a parasitic plant that looks like a bunch of orange string tangled up on its host (it looks more yellow-brown than orange in this photo). - Across the lower, southeastern end of the Kelso Mountains are nice views to Kelso Dunes and the Granite Mountains beyond
Kelso Dunes make for an excellent short day hike. I climbed the 600 feet of sand there during my Xmas 2007 Mojave National Preserve trip. Well worth your visit! - As I reach the bottom of this stretch of Kelbaker Road, the hamlet of Kelso keeps getting closer
The next segment of Kelbaker Road, where it rises into the Granite Mountains, is visible from here, but I'll make a left at Kelso and head up Kelso-Cima Road. It's warmer down here in the Kelso Valley, but not as hot as I was expecting. - Coyote melon grows on the shoulder of Kelbaker Road just north of Kelso
This might make for a good hike destination if I camp in the Kelso area again one day (there's no camping allowed at Kelso, but backcountry camping is feasible a couple of miles away). - 3865-coyote-melon
The melons are small and apparently not edible. - I break for 60 minutes at the Kelso Depot visitor centre to refill my water supply and enjoy an iced tea at the lunch counter
It's not as hot (only mid 80s) as I was expecting here in the Kelso Valley. I am told that it was very windy last night, but they didn't experience any of the rain here that I had up on the ridge above. The iced tea here is great, plain and homemade, but most food is microwave-heated commercial stuff. I eat two small beef-bean burritos and end up feeling energized afterwards nonetheless. I buy a local history book and a bandana at the book store before leaving. Nice exhibit of student photos in the downstairs gallery. I fill two of my 1.5-litre water bottles, and my 2-litre Camelbak before leaving, from the utility closet in the Kelso Depot basement (ask staff to unlock the door for you; there's no outdoor tap here where you can fill up). - After my break at Kelso Depot, I begin the gentle 15-mile uphill ride on Kelso-Cima Road
From here at 2100 feet elevation, it will be uphill until the end of the day when I arrive at Mid Hills campground at 5600 feet, in those hills at the distant right. A few old buildings remain along the road here. - My favourite old house here at Kelso, the one with the rounded roof, isn't doing so well
The front porch has fallen off since I did a walk-through of this Kelso house during my 2006 Mojave National Preserve trip. - One of several long freight trains passes by as I slowly rise up Kelso-Cima Road
The low spot in the distant hills ahead is Cedar Canyon, through which I'll pass later on my route to Mid Hills campground. - Blooming daturas decorate the train tracks along Kelso-Cima Road
Daturas like the roadsides of the Kelso area, but I find them in higher-elevation locations as well. - I pass Globe Mine Road, the only signed road off Kelso-Cima Road between Kelso and Cedar Canyon Road
I explored some of the area up Globe Mine Road during my 2008 trip, but there's plenty left up there for a future visit. - I amuse myself visually with the views of Cima Dome and Kessler Peak on my left as I climb Kelso-Cima Road
Kelso-Cima Road isn't the most exciting climb because the scenery doesn't change much, but it's going better than usual thanks to a strong tailwind that is pushing me up the subtle grade. - Behind me, looking back toward Kelso, are some great views of the Kelso Dunes
Kelso-Cima Road is a cut-through route in Mojave National Preserve, with a 55-mile-per-hour speed limit, so traffic can be fast and abundant at times. It's more relaxed on a weekday like today than on a busy weekend. - Reaching the sign for Cedar Canyon Road after 15 miles: I'm happy and pull over for a break
I usually stop for a short break or two on the way up Kelso-Cima Road before reaching this point, but today I just kept pedaling. Today's tailwind really helped to push me along and keep me from overheating. - I take my break at the E Clampus Vitus Mojave Road marker at the junction of Cedar Canyon Road and Kelso-Cima Road
I eat an energy bar and slug back some water. The dirt road behind the E Clampus Vitus marker is the old Mojave Road, one of the early wagon roads across the Mojave Desert. I'll ride a stretch of that road toward the end of this trip. - Detail view of the E Clampus Vitus plaque at the junction of Mojave Road, Kelso-Cima Road and Cedar Canyon Road
The plaque was dedicated in 1986. - I begin the climb up Cedar Canyon Road toward, and then into, the Mid Hills
The first thing that Cedar Canyon Road does upon leaving Kelso-Cima Road is cross the train tracks that I've been paralleling for the past two hours. - The first 2.5 miles of Cedar Canyon Road rise at about 5% grade, so the views behind me improve quickly
Looking back, I can see the old Mojave Road wiggling up the distant hills toward Marl Springs and Cima Dome. - Cedar Canyon Road's famous "pavement ends" sign, Mojave National Preserve
Here at about 4200 feet elevation, a cool breeze tempers the waning sun's heat. Just to the left of the sign is the Eagle Rocks, a landmark visible from miles away. I stop to make a cell-phone call, probably my last reception for the next few days. - Cedar Canyon Road rises through a healthy joshua tree forest, with Cima Dome still in the background when I look behind me
Unfortunately, most of the joshua trees on the opposite side of the road (not visible here) were burned during Mojave National Preserve's brush fires of 2005. The old Mojave Road is still visible climbing up the far-away hill. - Once Cedar Canyon Road enters the Mid Hills, it drops down into Cedar Wash for a couple of miles
It's nice to have a short descent after so many miles of uphill climbing today, but the toughest will be saved for the end. This is the first dirt road I've ridden on this trip, and it's definitely slower than pavement! - Looking behind me at the heavily washboarded surface of Cedar Canyon Road as it drops into Cedar Wash
I rattle over this and swerve constantly to avoid the roughest stretches. Mojave National Preserve staff at Kelso Depot earlier made an "Oh, that rough road" comment when I mentioned I would be riding this route to Mid Hills campground today. - After six miles on Cedar Canyon Road, I reach my next turn for Mid Hills campground: Black Canyon Rd. Time for a break!
Sure, Mid Hills campground is only 5 or 6 miles away (not much in road-cyclist mode), but on bumpy dirt roads with a steady uphill grade and a full load, I still have a bit of riding before me. I learned that lesson during my first trip out here! - An energy-bar break is de rigueur here before tackling the final few miles up to Mid Hills campground
Here at the junction of Cedar Canyon Road and Black Canyon Road, I meet a couple of sunburnt Belgian tourists driving by. They're exploring the area and having a great time in the desert; I'm happy to encourage them onward. - After my break, I ride up Black Canyon Road from Cedar Canyon Road, still 5-6 miles away from Mid Hills campground
I crank it and don't stop for the first uphill mile to get beyond the slippery part. It's not horribly steep, but the washboarded road surface and surface sand here and there keeps speed to a minimum. The energy bar I just ate is working! - The climb up Black Canyon Road toward Mid Hills only lasts a mile until I reach an almost-flat plateau (Round Valley)
This late in the day, after 3000 miles of elevation gain, I welcome any riding that is not uphill! After exerting myself up during the mile-long hill behind me, I ride this flatter area slowly to recuperate. - The Round Valley area of Mojave National Preserve includes quite a bit of private land
Someone's windmill and water tanks dominate this view with Table Mountain in the background. Most of this area burned in the 2005 brush fires here, and I've read that a fire torched the mesa on top of Table Mountain back in the 1980s. - A chunk of land in Round Valley is for sale
I've often wondered what it might be like to live out here, in a national park. The National Park Service has probably considered acquiring this land. - I ride up the gravelly Wild Horse Canyon Road the final two miles to Mid Hills campground
Traction is a problem here on a loaded-down bike, even with 2.35-inch tires, with the loose gravel and four short hills. I walk the bike up the steepest one (easier). A lone car passes, stops to see if I've had a breakdown, and we chat for 15 minutes. He chuckles that my bicycle-traveling looks like punishment. It's hard to explain that yes it is, but it's also freedom beyond anything advertised in one's favourite SUV commercial. If we had more advertisements about bicycling, he would understand better. - Finally, I reach the Mid Hills campground entrance road; those final two miles always seem to last forever
My rear wheel has started rubbing against the frame like it did a couple of days ago. Oddly, when I walk the bike, the wheel almost locks up, but if I ride, it just rubs. Huh? Since I'm almost there, I don't bother fixing it immediately. - I ride almost 3/4 mile to the far end of Mid Hills campground to see if my prized site 21 is taken or surrounded by undesirables
I win! Best of all, the campground is almost empty, which I expect on a weekday like this. I was worried because the guy I chatted with back on Wild Horse Canyon Road said that he had met a large group of people at the campground. - It's a bit chilly up here at Mid Hills campground! I put on my sweater, set up the tent, settle in, and enjoy the sunset
Mid Hills campground will be home base for a few days. I've camped here many times before, and always enjoy coming back to what's left of this high-desert forest (after the 2005 brush fires): except perhaps on weekends when it sometimes gets busy here. - Sunset from Mid Hills campground through a pinyon pine; that should be the Kingston Range way over there
Now that I'm starting to relax and lose the day's sweat-and-adrenalin rush, I realize that it's almost cold here. And I'm hungry and exhausted. I munch on some beef jerky while anticipating supper after sunset. I still have more than a litre of water left; probably consumed about 3.5 on the way here today. I walk over to the tap up the road to fill up and find that it's more heavily chlorinated than it should be. Blech, tastes like a swimming pool; this can't be normal! - The usually ochre hills on the other side of Cedar Canyon Road, which I passed earlier, collect the day's pinkish orange rays
After dark, I make Mountain House Beef Teriyaki and Rice. Tasty, but I have to eat slowly since my body isn't so sure it wants to swallow food right now. The engine-like sound of wind howls above all evening. I wear a long-sleeve shirt, long underwear, long pants and sweater in my sleeping bag. I pass out easily, more wasted than I thought, a bit after midnight. - Kelso Peak area to Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, route elevation profile
37.8 bicycle miles, 3640 feet elevation gain. - Kelso Peak area to Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, bicycle route
37.8 bicycle miles, 3640 feet elevation gain.