Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2009, Fall: Mojave National Preserve / Day 8: Kelso Dunes area to Baker, CA by bicycle 32
After last night's thunderstorm, it's a relief that the sunshine has come out. A satisfying ride back to Baker and an enjoyable chat with Preserve staff at Kelso Depot along the way.
48.9 bicycle miles, 2195 feet of elevation gain, 3730 feet of elevation loss. Temperatures recorded in Baker, CA today: 65F high, 41F low.
- Sunny skies this morning, but raindrops from last night's thunderstorm glisten on the roof of my tent
A pleasant, but chilly, last-morning-of-the-trip. Pleasant enough that I almost forget I have a cold; cough, hack. Or maybe I'm just used to this cold after living with it for a week. - I make my last two cups of strong coffee of the trip and enjoy the views while I procrastinate the task of breaking camp
I lazily consume beef jerky, granola, tamari almonds, dried fruit, and vitamin-C drink for breakfast again. The nearby power lines are buzzing loudly again this morning. - As I pack the tent's contents into my saddlebags, I remove the big rocks I placed inside the tent to keep it from blowing away
I do bring tent stakes with me, but rarely use them. Desert terrain tends to be too crumbly or sandy for stakes to help much with holding a tent down. - It's that everything-out-of-the-tent moment again; time to leave the Kelso Dunes area!
I like this area west of the Kelso Dunes and would like to come back to explore more. A vehicle or two may have driven by on the power-line road yesterday while I was hiking Bull Canyon, but I haven't seen anyone since I passed Kelso Dunes two days ago - After packing up, I carry my saddlebags and bicycle down to the power-line road for final assembly
I've done plenty of bikepacking, but have only backpacked once. I'm glad I'm not carrying my heavy load on my back, but backpacking can sometimes be easier than bikepacking, depending on conditions. - The 10-ton bike reassembled, I'm ready to put my helmet on and start riding up the Kelso Dunes power-line road
Actually, I won't put the helmet on just yet. I first have to walk the bike through the sandy area ahead, but once it becomes rideable, then the helmet will go on. - Off the Kelso Dunes power-line road, I notice vehicle tracks going past a Wilderness boundary marker
Cars and bicycles are prohibited in official Wilderness areas, but the signage is generally absent or so weak (a non-descript metal post in this case) that accidental trespassing should be expected. - I cut over from the power-line road to Kelso Dunes Road and make a stop at the washroom near the dunes trail
The nice thing about this is that I didn't have to dig a cat hole this morning! - The last couple miles up Kelso Dunes Road is enjoyable with the view toward Providence Mountains in my face
Plus, the road was recently graded, so the usual sand and washboard has departed. I'll turn left at the stop sign ahead and start riding down the hill to Kelso. - At the end of Kelso Dunes Road, I start riding down the paved Kelbaker Road, with the Granite Mountains behind me
After hiking Bull Canyon yesterday, I want to return to the Granite Mountains and poke around more. - I have 8 miles of downhill on Kelbaker Road before I reach Kelso, but a strong headwind is slowing me down
I've had a strong headwind going down this hill several times in the past. Bicyclists hate it when they have to pedal downhill! - As I head down Kelbaker Road, I glance to my right at the Providence Mountains, where I hiked a few days ago
"West Edgar Canyon #3" is roughly in the centre of the photo while Rex Mine is off at the left edge. - Coming up to the "big bend," I can now see the town of Kelso down in the distance
The headwind intensifies as I get further down into Kelso Valley. I'm pedalling quite a bit just to maintain 12 miles per hour as I head down the hill. - I stop for a moment when I pass the unmaintained Vulcan Mine Road
I haven't been up this road yet, but I was thinking that it might provide good access for hiking canyons in the Providence Mountains. However, Eric told me that he tried it and ran across a lot of deep drainages when hiking across the fan up in that area. - Approaching Kelso, I see a freight train in the distance with a lot of red cars
The Kelso Mountains and Old Dad Mountain rise in the background. - Arriving at Kelso Depot visitor centre, Mojave National Preserve
I haven't spoken to anyone since two days ago when I last stopped here, so I'll stop in and report on my Bull Canyon hike. - Kelso Depot is receiving a lot of visitors today due to the long weekend (Thanksgiving)
I still have enough water left to get back to Baker later today, so I don't have to ask for access to the basement utility closet for a water fill-up like I usually do. I donate my unused propane, since I can't take that back home with me on Amtrak. - I've taken this photo several times in the past with the 10-ton bike under the Kelso Depot porch
At the visitor centre, I chat with staff and buy another local history book. Hillary helps me identify the rabbitbrush in Bull Canyon, and offers a plant list. The copier dies, so she faxes it to herself as a way of making a copy. Great idea, and thanks!! - After the nice break at Kelso Depot, it's time to start the 12-mile climb up to the Kelbaker Road summit
Though long, it's an easy climb at about 2-3% grade most of the way. - For some reason, I always enjoy the climb out of Kelso toward Baker on Kelbaker Road
Part of the reason for this may be that I usually ride this hill at the end of a trip, when I'm at my strongest and most enthusiastic. - I pause on the way up Kelbaker Road to eat an energy bar and look across Kelso Valley toward the Mid Hills
From here, I can squint and see numerous locales that I've visited during previous Mojave National Preserve trips. I like the Mid Hills area over there in the distance, but skipped it on this trip due to the cold weather at the higher elevations. - Heading toward the Marl Mountains as I climb Kelbaker Road out of Kelso, Mojave National Preserve
Scenery-wise, this is probably my favourite part of the westbound Kelbaker Road climb out of Kelso. When the road reaches the Marl Mountains ahead, it bends to the left (northwest). - 20 minutes later, I'm around the bend on Kelbaker Road, with the Providence Mountains further and further behind me
The pavement is quite worn-out on this section of Kelbaker Road (and many others). - Up, up, slowly up Kelbaker Road, Mojave National Preserve
Only a couple of cars pass me while I climb the Kelbaker Road northwest out of Kelso. On the other hand, Kelbaker Road south of Kelso has quite a bit more traffic. - As I get closer to the Kelbaker Road summit, the moon rises behind me
... and the sun is starting to be hidden by the Kelso Mountains on the west side of the road. - I reach the Kelbaker Road summit at the power lines just after 16h and stop for a quick energy-bar break
Although I'm up at 3700 feet elevation here, downward views are largely obscured by the hilly terrain of the area. - I put on my windbreaker for the easy 20-mile downhill to Baker, and off into the sunset we go
I've done this Kelbaker Road descent around sunset quite a few times now, and always enjoy it. - I catch the red rays of sunset as I pedal down Kelbaker Road toward Baker
Though it is downhill, it's not steep and I have a light headwind, so I am pedalling to get some extra speed. On the fastest stretches, I still only attain 25 miles per hour. - It's still and silent as I ride into the sunset on Kelbaker Road
Air whooshes past my ears, my knobby tires hum relaxedly, and the 10-ton bike rattles lightly as it absorbs surface imperfections in the old paved road. No cars here, the road is mine. - Sunset fades into dusk, then darkness joins me while I enjoy the final 12 miles of the ride into Baker
At Baker, I check into the Wills Fargo Motel, take my first shower in 8 days, then eat a copious Mexican supper at Los Dos Toritos. During tomorrow's Amtrak trip back to San José, I'll burn few calories, for a change. Another awesome trip completed! - Bicycle route from Kelso Dunes area to Baker via Kelbaker Road
48.9 bicycle miles, 2195 feet of elevation gain, 3730 feet of elevation loss. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Kelso Dunes area to Baker via Kelbaker Road
48.9 bicycle miles, 2195 feet of elevation gain, 3730 feet of elevation loss.