Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2009, Spring: Mojave National Preserve / Day 14: Clark Mountain Range day hike (north side) from Pachalka Spring, Mojave National Preserve 43
If I were really ambitious today, I'd attempt hiking to the summit of Clark Mountain, but I'm curious about a canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range that I noticed on my maps. 8.7 hiking miles with 2970 feet of elevation gain (from 4870 feet, down to 4450 feet, then up to 6350 feet, and back).
- A cool morning at Pachalka Spring, Mojave National Preserve, with Clark Mountain Range in the background
It was chilly enough last night (in the 40s) that I woke up a few times and even had to zip up the hood on my sleeping bag to stay warm. I'm surprised when I step outside my tent and need to put on long pants due to the chill. The great thing about the cool morning here at around 5000 feet elevation is that the sun doesn't bake my tent and I'm able to sleep in until around 10h. I have a typical camp breakfast of granola, a dried fruit assortment (nectarine, sour plum, peaches and a pear), tamari almonds, electrolyte-replacer drink, and a small pot of tea. Pachalka Spring is that tuft of green trees off to the left. - Digging a cat hole in this area is difficult because the earth is almost as tough as cement
Also, it's best to wear gloves while supporting oneself to help prevent picking up a stray cholla cactus spine or two. - Before starting today's hike, I walk over to Pachalka Spring to filter some water
This will be the first spring water that I've filtered during this trip. I've been spoiled by the easier water fill-ups at Kelso Depot, Mid Hills campground and Nipton up until now. - I walk through the grass that covers the meagre stream below Pachalka Spring on my way to the water source
There's just a bit of water under the grass, but not enough that my feet sink through and get wet. This is probably a bonafide stream during the wetter winter months. - I again pass that Asian-like flowering tree at Pachalka Spring with the penstemon-like flowers
There are also a few native willow trees by Pachalka Spring. - Close-up of the penstemon-like flowers on the big flowering tree at Pachalka Spring
I've never seen this kind of tree before, so I wonder if perhaps it was planted by former area residents rather than being a native plant. - I walk out on the log that leads through the yerba mansa flowers to the fresh water at Pachalka Spring
I'm wearing my long pants because it's a bit chilly right now and they're protecting my socks from collecting a lot of burrs and grass particles. - I filter a couple of gallons of water amidst the yerba mansa flowers at Pachalka Spring (see the water gushing out of the pipe?)
While pumping water, a hummingbird flits by twice to check me out. Hummingbirds can be rather protective about their chosen flowers, but I'm not so sure that a hummer can insert its long beak into these yerba mansa flowers. - My 10-litre MSR black water bag is nice and full and fat now
I now have plenty of water for the rest of the day and probably most of tomorrow too. No yellowjacket wasps were buzzing around this spring like they often do: sweet! - On the way back to my tent from Pachalka Spring, I look at the elderberry trees downstream and their creamy-white blossoms
I had no idea that elderberry trees grew anywhere in the Mojave Desert. I planted one in my backyard in San José, where it's a local native plant, so I recognize them easily. - I get my backpack together and begin hiking down the north side of Pachalka Spring Road, which I haven't seen yet
Strong winds have picked up again, so I'm a bit worried about the tent, but there's nothing I can do about it, so I start out on today's hike. The first mile is all downhill, with about 400 feet of elevation loss, with the Kingston Range in the distance. - Pachalka Spring Road drops into this wash, beyond which I see two tailings piles
The main "drivable" road heads off to the left down the wash to eventually meet Excelsior Mine Road. I'll exit the area via that route tomorrow, but today I'll hike to the right up the back side of the Clark Mountain Range. - The old road is drivable for a short distance further, then ends at two campsites
Official Wilderness markers mark the end of the road here, beyond which mechanized transport by bicycle or motor vehicle is prohibited. - My hiking route today follows an old mining road that rises up over the pass ahead to the north side of the Clark Mountain Range
This highly eroded road (walk straight ahead) is almost invisible at first and rises up to about 5070 feet. - What's left of the old road is slowly starting to slide down the hill and return to nature
Just ahead is a small rock retaining wall designed to keep the road from washing away where it crosses a drainage area. - Standing in the middle of the old road just beyond the pass at 5050 feet, the next segment of the road reveals itself
The road is mostly flat, and even slightly downhill, for the next half mile while it hugs the slope on its way to a canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range. - Several rock retaining walls were built along this part of the road to prevent wash-outs
It's amazing that these rocks are still mostly in place some 75-100 years later. - I continue walking along the faded road after it drops into an unnamed canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range
Sudden, deeper solitude. Of course, I already have solitude back at my Pachalka Spring campsite and haven't seen anyone since leaving pavement back near Valley Wells two days ago, but the perception is accentuated here in this close canyon. - I come across what might be the remains of a dugout for food storage at an old prospecting site
This site is labelled on the USGS topo maps as a prospect and County Road 20913, as this unused road has been named, ends here. - There's even an old fire ring here, but it doesn't look like it has been used in years
This is another of those remote spots where you wonder when the last time another human was here. - I start hiking up the canyon beyond the prospect and the end of the old road
It's all uphill after here, with grades between five and 30 percent. The loose rock in the canyon looks intimidating at first, but most of it turns out to be fairly large and only requires a bit of easy scrambling or short detours. - This canyon provides excellent views to the south of a few high points in the Clark Mountain Range
I could spontaneously change my plan and hike up a drainage toward those high areas, but I decide to continue up the main canyon and see where that takes me. - I keep walking up the unnamed canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range
... and I keep looking at the high points of the mountains just south of me. - I keep hiking upward in the canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range, unaware of how much elevation I'm gaining
I'm well above 5000 feet elevation now and there are pinon pines and junipers everywhere. - The canyon climbs over more rocks and seems to be heading toward a plateau above with open sunshine
I keep hiking upward, curious about the possibility that a vista point over the lands below might lie just ahead. - From the canyon, I climb up a short, steep hill of loose rock and take a 1/2-hour break to soak up the views from 6350 feet
I drink water and eat another Clif bar while quietly looking down on the low Mesquite Mountains nearby and the Kingston Range (behind my hat). After an enjoyable break, I carefully walk back down the slippery hill to the canyon. - My maps show a spot labelled "cave" a quarter mile further (and 500 feet higher), probably high in the rock wall ahead
I consider hiking higher up the north side of the Clark Mountain Range, but decide not to. Hiking is getting slower as the grade steepens and I'm already feeling satisfied with the day's hike. - I begin the descent back down this unnamed Clark Mountain Range canyon toward my campsite at Pachalka Spring
I'm looking forward to the hike back down, even though I could easily continue upward, perhaps even to Clark Mountain. There's a lot more to see up here... - The hike down the canyon is perhaps more dramatic than the hike up
More blue sky fills my field of vision on the way down, which increases my perception of the elevation change in the downhill direction. - A white pinnacle rises on my right on the way down the canyon
I barely noticed this formation on the way up the canyon. - The cactus, rock, yucca and brush obstructions in the canyon are mostly easy to get around
The downward hike in this Clark Mountain Range canyon is going faster than I expected. - I hike by the old prospect that I passed on the way up and I'm back on the old road again, still heading downward
Not far ahead, the road will rise slightly out of the canyon and cross over the pass straight ahead between the two hills. - The old road approaches the unnamed pass leading back to the Pachalka Spring area
The road crossing just ahead over a drainage area hasn't been washed away yet, despite lack of maintenance, thanks to the well-built antique rock walls that support it. - The old road crosses over the pass and I suddenly have big views down into Shadow Valley below
I can see the road winding down into the valley, where it will join the road back up to Pachalka Spring. Valley Wells with its gas station, store and unusual urinal is the small white spot at centre, and the Sawtooth is visible on the distant right. - On the way down to Pachalka Spring Road, I see a faint road rising up a steep hill toward an old mining area
The road ends at a tailings pile at upper left, which would be worth checking out, but I'm feeling a bit tired and lazy at this point. I didn't notice this road when I passed it earlier today. - I leave the old road and hike down in the wash for about 3/4 mile before catching up with the road back up to Pachalka Spring
More great views across Shadow Valley. - I rejoin Pachalka Spring Road and climb up the final 400 feet of elevation on the way back to the tent
My third and final night here at Pachalka Spring, that patch of bright green trees just ahead in this rocky landscape has quickly become a marker that signifies "home." - Getting home before sunset means that I get to catch that orange desert sunset light that I enjoy so much
I'm so pleased that my tent wasn't damaged by today's high winds. Equally important is that I don't have any hiking to do by flashlight, which I don't like much on routes that are new to me, especially since I'm travelling solo. - As the sun sets at Pachalka Spring, I look to the southeast and see the full moon rising
It has been fairly windy all day, but there's not a cloud in the sky right now. The strong winds subside from time to time so that I can hear the clucking of quail over by Pachalka Spring. - Sunset tonight at Pachalka Spring, Mojave National Preserve, is quiet again, but not quite as spectacular as last night's show
I stare at the Kingston Range in the distance, which I had hoped to visit during this trip, but it will have to wait until later. I wonder if I will one day get bored with the Mojave Desert, but I always have reasons to come back to this place. It's quiet except for the warbling of a nearby bird, the distant drone and thuds of the freeway a few miles away, and the singing of a few happy crickets. - One of my after-dark photos tonight is actually usable; usually they are not
It takes forever to boil water for my instant meal tonight because my propane cylinder is almost empty. I finally give up and change it for a new one, and in little time I have boiling water for my Backpacker's Pantry Kathmandu Curry, a delicious vegetarian meal. For dessert, I follow up with some tamari almonds and Trader Joe's turkey and beef jerky (I'm not vegetarian, even though I eat many vegan meals). By mid-evening, the wind has all but disappeared, for a while at least. All is peaceful (the quail seem to have gone to bed) and no moths or flies are flitting around my tent. The bright light from the full moon is incredible and adds to the peace of my surroundings. Cool air sets in again tonight, so I put on my long underwear and read a bit more of Edward Abbey's "Desert Solitaire" before succumbing to sleep around 1h. - Mojave National Preserve hiking route from Pachalka Spring up a canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range (Day 14)
8.7 hiking miles with 2970 feet of elevation gain (from 4870 feet, down to 4450 feet, then up to 6350 feet, and back). - Hiking route profile from Pachalka Spring up a canyon on the north side of the Clark Mountain Range (Day 14)
8.7 hiking miles with 2970 feet of elevation gain (from 4870 feet, down to 4450 feet, then up to 6350 feet, and back).