Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2010, Mojave National Preserve / Day 14: Brant Hills to Baker by bicycle via Mojave Road, Mojave National Preserve 75
Excellent day of riding just over 50 miles, much of it downhill, to get back to Baker, California for tomorrow's Amtrak trip back to San Jose. I ride a dirt powerline road on the flank of Cima Dome for the first time and love the downhill on the old Mojave Road.
The easy 11 miles of dirt road along the train tracks to Cima, and the Mojave Road downhill, are memorable. Mojave National Preserve can be a mountain-biker's paradise, with careful planning, but it can just as easily be a death march.
Nice temperatures, though it does heat up quite a bit during the final 25 miles into Baker. Since I'm mostly going downhill, I barely notice, except for the extra sweat. End of this late-spring trip!
- I wake up early and look outside to another warm sunny day: sadly, the final morning of this trip
With about 50 miles of riding ahead of me today, much of it downhill and some of it on roads I haven't travelled before, the trip is definitely not done yet, even though this is my last day. - The first major task of the day is to fix my flat front tire, so I can actually go somewhere
The tire has been sputtering "Slime" during much of the trip, but successfully repaired itself over and over until yesterday. I replace the tube, happy that this is the only flat I've had during this trip. - A colourful and very long freight train crosses the Ivanpah Valley a couple of miles down the fan from my tent
Alternating blue and rust rectangles stripe a snake quite different from those usually seen in the Mojave Desert. - Something seems to have bitten my leg yesterday, but I don't remember it happening
It sure is itchy! - I enjoy cold coffee and eat breakfast while packing up to leave Ivanpah Valley
Of course I would prefer iced coffee, but my water is refreshing enough, still cool from the overnight sweater-weather temperature. A few bees feast on the buckwheat flowers outside my tent; busy, they leave me alone. I usually dislike instant coffee, but this Starbuck's Via coffee is pretty good. - On my way back to the tent after brushing my teeth, a yucca spine impales the tube of toothpaste protruding from my pocket
This campsite sits in a tight space, so I'm constantly avoiding rocks and plants when coming and going. I haven't gotten poked by anything yet, but this is a close call. - The job is almost done: tent disassembled, my supplies hop into my saddlebags one item at a time
The curve of Cima Dome sits in the distance; I'll start my trek in that direction once I finish setting up the 10-ton bike. - The 10-ton bike packed up, off I go down the hill toward Ivanpah Valley
Not so quickly though! This part of the road is so bumpy that I carefully walk the bike at first instead of riding it. I'm hoping to keep my rear wheel from loosening up again by minimizing harsh vibration. - The old road doesn't stand out much as it crawls down the fan toward the Ivanpah Valley train tracks
I've seen the gentle curve of Cima Dome from many angles during this trip; I'll ride through its joshua-tree forest later today. - I finally get past the rocky part of the road to a more ridable stretch
This part of the road is a bit sandy and eroded, but it is slightly downhill and rides reasonably well on the 10-ton bike's fat 2.3-inch tires. However, I wouldn't try driving a passenger car up this road! - As I approach the bottom of the road, I look back up toward the New York Mountains and the area where I camped last night
This wasn't one of those fast and thrilling bicycle downhills, but it was still a fun 2.5 miles, and it didn't take long. - I zoom in for a closer look at the New York Mountains
There's a lot of remote land up there to explore, if you can get to it. I wish I had the time to spend another day here. - I ride through the sandy area at the end of the road and arrive at the train tracks in Ivanpah Valley
I see my tire tracks from yesterday. - Several of the rail supports are crooked and one has cracked
The wood here was once painted, but not much paint remains. How much longer will this last? - The 10-ton bike breaks briefly under the train trestle at Brant Road
I'm as fascinated today as I was yesterday by the crooked beams that support the rail along the trestle. - I start riding up lonesome Brant Road toward Cima, my next stop, and a train passes
This is a road of aural contrast: intense noise whenever a train passes a few feet away on my left, followed by the silence of the Mojave Desert wilderness. The effect is not unpleasant and stressful like a road with constant automobile traffic. - I slam on the brakes while coasting down to a wash crossing on Brant Road, due to a "special rock" in the road
It's not a rock, but a tortoise, the first one I've ever seen. I haven't seen a car on this road yet today, but he's resting in one of Brant Road's two tire tracks. - The tortoise appears to see me approaching
His front legs are no longer protruded as they were at first. I take numerous photos and enjoy watching this slow and heavily armoured animal. - Close up, I notice that the tortoise is pinkish around his mouth, and it doesn't look like part of his natural complexion
I know little about these animals except that they do eat flowers, so I wonder if the pink is staining from a flower eaten recently. - Tortoises shouldn't be touched, but they also shouldn't be left in a rocky road where a passing car might inadvertently crush it
I approach the tortoise to remove it from the road and he retracts his head and hisses in self-defense. - I pick up the tortoise and put him down amidst some flowers, encelias perhaps, off the road
I keep wondering if maybe I should relocate him far from the road, instead of to a nearby non-road location, but it doesn't seem like a good idea to carry the tortoise a long distance. - A bit further up Brant Road, I stop to look across the tortoise's habitat, and down toward Ivanpah Dry Lake
I haven't seen any pink cactus flowers that the tortoise might have eaten, but I do some pink blooms of Range ratany. Do tortoises eat those flowers? - Brant Road dips down again to cross a wash, with the adjacent train tracks crossing the wash on an old concrete bridge
This trestle is dated 1926, like some others along Brant Road. - I look across the train tracks from Brant Road toward the Sacaton Spring area
Sacaton Spring is another area that I haven't gotten around to visiting yet. In the distant New York Mountains hills is the area of Butcher Mine Canyon that I visited in 2008. - Brant Road hugs the train track as it curves to follow the route toward Cima, Mojave National Preserve
Brant Road really hugs the tracks along this stretch. Fortunately, one of the tracks is gravel-free and makes for decent single-track bicycling. - The conductor of an oncoming train toots his horn and waves at me at Joshua siding, Mojave National Preserve
Cool! I wave back. - The 10-ton bike hides in the shade of the trestle at Joshua siding while a freight train rumbles overhead
I prefer resting the bike against an upright object. Picking up the bike after laying it on the ground creates lateral pressure that has occasionally jiggled my rear wheel out of alignment during this trip. - This is a pensive, scenic ride on Brant Road toward Cima
I spend a lot of time looking at the thousands of joshua trees that recede into the distance on the slope of Cima Dome. - A handmade sign warns of the dangers of the Mojave Green rattlesnake
"Work safe and be a storyteller, not the story." I haven't encountered a Mojave Green yet, but they are said to be quite agressive. - Across upper Ivanpah Valley is the summit of Cima Dome, so subtle that it can only be perceived from a distance
The powerline road that I crossed yesterday near Nipton arcs across the joshua-tree forest. I'll join up with this road in a while and ride several miles of it along the flank of Cima Dome. - Roughly two miles before Cima, I cross an intersection with an unsigned dirt road to my right; I continue straight ahead
According to my maps, this side road leads over to Morning Star Mine Road, passing an old corral along the way. I should try that road some day. - Nice to see a few cheerful orange desert-mallow flowers again, this time framing my glance toward Butcher Knife Canyon
Mojave National Preserve's Butcher Knife Canyon, which I visited in 2008, is the low spot in the New York Mountains at the distant centre-left. - The double culvert under this trestle along Brant Road near Cima bears two different date inscriptions
The left culvert is labelled 1928, while the right displays 1926. - As I approach Cima, another freight train churns by, a few feet away from me as I ride along Brant Road
If I were driving a motor vehicle and occupying both tracks of Brant Road, I would be even closer to that train! - Several of the tanks whooshing by me are labelled as "corn sweetener"
I guess that means high-fructose corn syrup. Blech, but better than caustic chemicals in the event of a train derailment. This is why you're fat dot com. - I reach the end of the unpaved Brant Road and rejoin asphalt near the three-way stop at Cima, and automobile traffic
Wow, the 20+ miles of Brant Road has been a much easier and less stressful route from Nipton to Cima than expected, compared to the exhausting climb up Morning Star Mine Road and its speeding traffic. - I take a break at the Cima Store; it's open!
I buy a can of Coke, which I rarely drink except on bicycle trips (too sweet), and pig out on two bags of potato chips, one with salt and pepper. I dump my trash in the garbage can here and refill my Camelbak with water that I've carried from Nipton. - I start the 1.5-mile ride up Cima Road to the powerline road, passing an abandoned house on the way out of "town"
It's nice to be on pavement again, if only for less than two miles! I did a brief walk-through of that house during my spring 2009 trip out here. - Despite the fairly high elevation (over 4000 feet here), Cima Road is apparently subject to flash floods during heavy rains
The big outcrop ahead called Teutonia Peak pokes out of Cima Dome. I can see the power lines, where I'll leave pavement again, in front of that landmark. - Approaching the power lines that cross Cima Road, I start looking for the dirt road that I'll follow somewhere at my left
I've gained about 200 feet elevation since leaving Cima; the rise feels so easy since I've hardly ridden on pavement during the past day or so. - One of several primroses blooms on the shoulder of Cima Road
I've only seen a few of these during my two weeks here in Mojave National Preserve. - Before turning off at the unpaved powerline road, I take a look behind me back down toward Cima
From here I can see over to the pointy spires of Mojave National Preserve's Eagle Rocks, where I hiked a week ago. - I start riding up the powerline road, pass an electrical substation, then reach a closed gate
Numerous tire tracks have arrived here and then turned around. At first I think the gate is permanent and can't be opened. I persevere and realize that the gate is actually easy to open. I pass through, and close the gate behind me. - The powerline road starts out evenly, but I run into a short steep hill, as expected
Mojave Desert powerline roads are notorious for tracing straight lines across the land, ignoring the contours. This little hill isn't much compared to some I've seen. - The power lines here add extra height to the joshua-tree forest
It's all slowly uphill along here until I reach the high point at about 4650 feet elevation. Pedalling the 10-ton bike is going well; I'm energized and enjoying the scenery. - I'm high enough now on the flank of Cima Dome that I can see across Kelso Valley to the Granite Mountains
I can also see the Kelso Dunes from here. - I zoom in past the transmission tower for a closer view of the Kelso Dunes
I can't get much closer to Kelso Dunes with my cheap digital camera. Lots of cholla cactus grow in this area along with the joshua trees. - To the east I can see Macedonia Canyon Road climbing the fan out of Kelso Valley into the Mid Hills
I haven't come down the lower part of the road that I can see from here, but I did hike the area of upper Macedonia Canyon last year. - I've crossed the high point of the powerline road and now have a bit of downhill ahead of me; this will be a fun change
I'll make a right turn onto the old Mojave Road when I get close to the top of that hill ahead. It's not as steep as it looks. - I pause when I cross the junction of Rainbow Wells Road to enjoy the view across to the Providence Mountains
This would make an interesting route down to Kelso Depot, but wouldn't be easy in the uphill direction due to the sand. The low mountain on the way down looks like a good place for a secluded camp and hike. - I take a break near the Mojave Road junction for an energy bar, water, and to apply more sunscreen
I'm sweating a lot now. There's more heat in this area than I've experienced during the past few days. I enjoy looking down the powerline road that I've just ridden, and the minimalist curve of Cima Dome on the horizon. - I turn here and begin the short climb up to the summit of the old Mojave Road, after which the big downhill of the day begins
The sandy downhill behind me leads to Marl Spring, which I visited in 2006. I was going to stop there on this trip too, but fortunately learned that it has no water this spring. - From the summit of the Mojave Road at about 4550 feet, I have a nice view across the Marl Mountains to the Kelso Dunes
... with the intrusion of a transmission tower. - Nice view across the flank of Cima Dome and the powerline road that I just finished riding, from the summit of the Mojave Road
I can even see beyond the ghostly row of transmission towers all the way to the turrets of the Castle Peaks, where I camped and hiked a few days ago. - I'm ready to start the Mojave Road downhill ahead of me
I'll drop down to 3000 feet elevation from here at around 4550 feet, during the next six or seven miles. Break is over, time to start riding! - The old Mojave Road heads briefly southwest; I'm heading toward the Old Dad Mountain area for a short while
From here I can see scenic Jackass Canyon Road rising slowly up into the mountains, that faint line at the distant right. - Parts of the old Mojave Road are like a roller coaster, rising and falling gently over the desert terrain
I now remember why I enjoyed the ride here on the Mojave Road during my 2006 trip. - Up, down, up, down, on the old Mojave Road; my fat tires hiss in the sand
Since I'm heading downhill, it's a lot of fun, though a bit slippery in places. However, I probably won't try this road on a bicycle in the uphill direction. - The old Mojave Road continues rolling onward downhill; the loose sand on the road surface makes it feel a bit like skiing
The fresh tire tracks here are a reminder that the Mojave Road does get a fair amount of recreational traffic, but I haven't run into anyone here yet today. - I arrive at the famous Mojave Road mailbox in the middle of nowhere and sign its guest book
People sometimes leave supplies here; a couple of tires sit near the mailbox. - I pull out the guest book from the Mojave Road mailbox and sign in
Sometimes the Mojave Road mailbox contains useful items, such as the small bottle of water here today. Mostly it contains a lot of business cards. Of course I like the "Share the trail" sticker that someone applied here. - The old Mojave Road gets a bit more sandy as I head westward (and downward) after my stop at the Mojave Road mailbox
Parts of the Mojave Road are carved into the desert landscape; I wonder if it acts as a drainage corridor during heavy rains... - I like the occasional rocky stretches on the old Mojave Road because they add traction to the sandy road
Nice views across the valley to the Old Dad Mountain area as I ski my way down the hill. Mountain bikes (with wide tires) are perfect for this. - A few purple sages bloom on this part of the old Mojave Road amongst the yellow flowers
The joshua trees thin out as I lose elevation, and soon there will be no more. - I zoom in across an expanse of yellow creosote-bush blooms to one of the nearby cinder cones
This is an area that I've passed through many times, but haven't explored as much as I'd like. - I reach the junction of Aiken Mine Road, ending the enjoyable ride down the old Mojave Road
I turn left here and head over toward the pavement of Kelbaker Road, not wanting to deal with the deep sand on the portion of the Mojave Road just ahead. - Scattered lava rock, sand, and washboard texture define the half-mile-long ride on Aiken Mine Road, my final unpaved road
I rode most of Aiken Mine Road's 20 miles last year and it deserves another visit. - I take an energy-bar break when I reach the pavement of Kelbaker Road at 3000 feet elevation
Just 20 miles and 2000 feet of elevation loss until I reach Baker. It is quite warm here, but not scorching like when I stopped here on my way up to the Kelso Peak area on the first day of this trip. - I pass lots of desert senna flowers exuding their sweet scent as I ride down Kelbaker Road
I'm riding into a strong headwind, so I find myself pedalling, even though I'm heading downhill. With almost no traffic on the road, it's an enjoyable ride, as always - I stop briefly at Kelbaker Road's 10-mile curve, which means just 10 more miles until I reach Baker
Baker = food, shower, and bed. - From Kelbaker Road's 10-mile curve, the town of Baker doesn't look like it's still 10 miles away
It also doesn't look like I'm still 1000 feet higher than Baker because the downhill slope is so gradual. - On the way to Baker, I look back at the cinder cones and the Kelbaker Hills several times
It's always with mixed feelings that I pedal my way to the end of a trip. There's more that I want to explore out here. However, until the next trip, I'll accept the the feeling of accomplishment from this eventful and pleasant two-week journey. - There it is: Baker, California, the end (and beginning) of this trip
I check in for a night at the Wills Fargo Motel, get a shower and have a big meal at Los Dos Toritos. It has been a privilege to disconnect from the world for two weeks. Tomorrow morning I'll take the Amtrak bus and train back to San José. It's done! - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Brant Hills to Baker via old Mojave Road, Mojave National Preserve
51.9 bicycle miles with 1600 feet of elevation gain and 4600 feet of elevation loss (exaggerated by the GPS software). - Bicycle route from Brant Hills to Baker via old Mojave Road, Mojave National Preserve
51.9 bicycle miles with 1600 feet of elevation gain and 4600 feet of elevation loss (exaggerated by the GPS software).