Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2007, Christmas: Mojave National Preserve Mountain-Bike Camping / Day 2: Hike beyond Indian Springs toward Cane Spring, returning cross-country via Eyeball Rock in an unnamed wash, 7-8 miles 53
With the unexpected luxury of drinking water here at Indian Springs, I'll stay an extra day and explore on foot some of the wash and lava-flow areas up toward Cane Spring. No bicycling today.
I don't have a set destination for today's hike other than heading up the wash, which makes it that much more interesting.
- Late-morning coffee and breakfast (brunch, really). It was cold last night and I didn't sleep so well, and then I slept in late
A typical camping breakfast for me consists of tamari almonds, dried apricots, dry granola, coffee, water and maybe miso soup. I forgot to pack my coffee cup, so I'll drink my coffee out of my plastic bowl. - I had no problem falling asleep last night, but I slept very lightly during the pre-dawn hours and had many strange dreams. At 8h30, I awoke to sunlight, but fell back asleep. Eventually, some sun started shining on the tent, making it comfortable inside, and I didn't wake up again until 11h30. I eat a typical (for me) camping breakfast, which consists of tamari almonds, dried apricots, dry granola, coffee, water and maybe miso soup. One of the first things that I notice on this first morning of camping is that I forgot to pack my plastic coffee cup, so I'll drink my coffee out of the plastic bowl that I didn't forget. - After breakfast, I dig a cat hole up on the hillside above Indian Springs Road
It's so nice to have an outhouse with a view, and nobody around to invade your privacy! I haven't seen anyone since leaving the pavement of Kelbaker Road yesterday afternoon. - It's so nice to have an outhouse with a view, and nobody around to invade your privacy! I haven't seen anyone since leaving the pavement of Kelbaker Road yesterday afternoon. - I pack a day bag and start today's hike by walking 1/4 mile up to Indian Springs to filter the day's drinking water
My bag contains my winter coat, hat, scarf, gloves, toilet paper, batteries for the camera, a flashlight, and my yellow-jacket-sting kit (I'm highly allergic). - I expect to be out hiking for the rest of the afternoon, so I'm bringing a flashlight, just in case. My day bag also contains my winter coat, hat, scarf and gloves for later in the day when it cools off, as well as toilet paper, batteries for the camera, and my yellow-jacket-sting kit (I'm highly allergic). - I refill my two-litre Camelbak and an empty 1.5-litre bottle with water from Indian Springs
I expect to drink most of this during the afternoon. The filtered Indian Springs water has a slight greenish tint but tastes great. - I expect to drink most of this during the afternoon. The filtered Indian Springs water has a slight greenish tint but tastes great. The small stream has a fairly high algae content--enough that I have to clean my water filter a couple of times while pumping this relatively small quantity of water. - With no set destination, I start walking up the wash past Indian Springs and notice some intriguing rock layers
I liked what I saw in this wash when I arrived here at the end of yesterday afternoon, so I'm excited to be exploring a bit further. - I liked what I saw in this wash when I arrived here at the end of yesterday afternoon, so I'm excited to be exploring a bit further. - The colourful yellow lichen on these rocks is quite painterly
I have to remember to keep an eye open for petroglyphs that are supposed to exist in this area. - I have to remember to keep an eye open for petroglyphs that are supposed to exist in this area. - A little further up Indian Springs wash, I come across another seep and a bit of ice that today's sun hasn't reached, and melted
So, we definitely had freezing temperatures last night. No wonder I was cold while sleeping! - So, we definitely had freezing temperatures last night. No wonder I was cold while sleeping! - I continue up Indian Springs wash
The sandy floor of the wash is quite firm and makes for good walking right now, but it might be much looser and dustier during the drier months. - The sandy floor of the wash is quite firm and makes for good walking right now, but it might be much looser and dustier during the drier months. - More cool rock layering effects
There's so much texture everywhere I look. - There's so much texture everywhere I look. - Erosion along the walls of Indian Springs wash
This environment may be parched, but it's clear that torrents of water run down this wash from time to time. - This environment may be parched, but it's clear that torrents of water run down this wash from time to time. Desert soils don't absorb water very well, so you don't want to camp in a wash if there's any risk of rain, due to the potential for flash floods. - Poor little cactus!
This small barrel cactus appears to have lost its footing in the adjacent hillside and tumbled down to the floor of the wash. - This small barrel cactus appears to have lost its footing in the adjacent hillside and tumbled down to the floor of the wash. - I'm seeing animal tracks all over the place
However, I haven't seen or heard any animals yet, other than a few birds. There are also a few human footprints, so I'm not the only one who has hiked up this wash recently. - However, I haven't seen or heard any animals yet, other than a few birds. There are also a few human footprints, so I'm not the only one who has hiked up this wash recently. - Another trickle of water
I'm surprised to see so many small seeps back here providing a little water here and there. I was expecting the area to be almost completely dry. - I'm surprised to see so many small seeps back here providing a little water here and there. I was expecting the area to be almost completely dry. - The wash forks and gets narrower, then I stumble across these bones
I'm not sure what this was, but it had big teeth! - I'm not sure what this was, but it had big teeth! - I think I'm at Cane Spring, but maybe not; Cane Spring might be over in the next wash
There's a small pool of water here and it looks like the water lasts a while. The plants here are softer than the tougher, drier plants I've seen elsewhere in this wash system so far. - There's a small pool of water here and it looks like the water lasts a while. The plants here are softer than the tougher, drier plants I've seen elsewhere in this wash system so far. I don't have a detailed topo map (or GPS) to check exactly where I am, and I haven't been paying very close attention to where I'm going. One of the easy things about hiking a up a wash system like this is that the route back to the start is easy to figure out (just walk back down and follow any forks that head downward). - Just beyond Cane Spring, I come across more surface ice
It looks like a real stream, but the water here is extremely shallow, perhaps just 1/4 or 1/2 inch deep. - It looks like a real stream, but the water here is extremely shallow, perhaps just 1/4 or 1/2 inch deep. Nonetheless, in the desert, this counts as a water source. - Another one of many splits in the wash
I climb the adjacent hill a little to get a better view. Which fork should I take? - I climb the adjacent hill a little to get a better view. Which fork should I take? I'm making up my route as I go. - Randomly, I decide to head up the rocky right fork
I guess I'm heading toward that lava flow off in the distance. - I guess I'm heading toward that lava flow off in the distance. - More eroded walls in the wash
This almost looks like it was created by construction equipment. - This almost looks like it was created by construction equipment. - "Painted-dot" rock
The dark spot isn't the only interesting feature of this rock; it's also supporting the protruding slab above it. - The dark spot isn't the only interesting feature of this rock; it's also supporting the protruding slab above it. - The tip of one of the old lava flows lies a short distance ahead
I think I'll climb up to it. - I think I'll climb up to it. - Approaching the base of the lava flow from the knoll that it rests on
The edges of the lava flow look rather vertical, and I'm not a mountain climber. - The edges of the lava flow look rather vertical, and I'm not a mountain climber. - I make it almost to the top of the lava and am taking in the excellent views across the Indian Springs area
I can't climb the last eight feet or so to get completely on top because of the lava's sharp vertical edges. - I can't climb the last eight feet or so to get completely on top because of the lava's sharp vertical edges. If I felt like doing so, I could probably persevere and keep walking along the base of the lava and eventually find a spot where I could climb up to the top. - I climb back down to the wash below
An animal seems to have built a comfortable home in this rock shelter. - An animal seems to have built a comfortable home in this rock shelter. - I feel like taking a different route back to camp, instead of returning the same way I came
I'm in fairly remote territory now; I haven't seen any human footprints for a while. I have almost two hours of daylight left. - I'm going to try walking over a ridge or two and descending one of the other washes in the area instead of the one I came up. It occurs to me that I'm in fairly remote territory now, even though I'm probably no more than three miles from my tent. I haven't seen any human footprints for a while. I have almost two hours of daylight left. It's almost 15h15 now and it will be dark at about 17h. - I start walking up the low ridge to the west of me to get an overview of the area
On the way up, I discover more bones, apparently an animal's spine. - On the way up, I discover more bones, apparently an animal's spine. - At the top of this low ridge, I contemplate my next steps
I find that there is a series of low ridges with gullies between them. I'm looking for the easiest route over to the next hump. - I find that there is a series of low ridges with gullies between them. I'm looking for the easiest route over to the next hump. - Behind me is one of the cinder cones for which this area is well-known
I can see a faint road winding up the side of the cinder cone. Perhaps it leads to one of the old cinder-cone mines; I haven't explored that area. - I can see a faint road winding up the side of the cinder cone. Perhaps it leads to one of the old cinder-cone mines; I haven't explored that area. - Further along atop the next hump
Looking back down toward the Indian Springs wash that I just ascended; nice view. - Looking back down toward the Indian Springs wash that I just ascended; nice view. - Looking to the northwest, I can see another wash that looks like it drains toward Indian Springs
I'll head along the ridges here a bit more and then perhaps descend toward that wash to get back to camp. - I'll head along the ridges here a bit more and then perhaps descend toward that wash to get back to camp. That area in the distance that looks like it might be an ocean is Soda Lake, which is usually dry in the summer months. - I'm partially descending the back (south) side of the ridge to avoid the cold wind on the ridgetop
This takes me out of my way a bit, but it may facilitate reaching my targeted wash, or at least figuring out where I am. - This takes me out of my way a bit, but it may facilitate reaching my targeted wash, or at least figuring out where I am. I'm enjoying the cross-country hiking and the intimate views of more cinder cones. Note the notch in the top of the cinder cone, a result of mining activity. - Heading back up to the ridgetop for a moment
I'm trying to keep track of what's on the Indian Springs side of the ridge as much as possible. - I'm trying to keep track of what's on the Indian Springs side of the ridge as much as possible. - Great views across to Soda Lake from the ridgetop
But I'm not yet seeing a good spot for descending back down toward Indian Springs Road. - But I'm not yet seeing a good spot for descending back down toward Indian Springs Road. - So it's down the back side of the ridge again for a short distance to avoid the wind
Now I'm not sure what the best route is; I guess I'll just keep going until I find it. - Now I'm not sure what the best route is; I guess I'll just keep going until I find it. - I keep seeing these diminutive buckwheat-like plants
Their reddish-pink blossoms are small enough that that they can be passed unnoticed, yet they look quite bright if you actually take the time to look directly at them. - Their reddish-pink blossoms are small enough that that they can be passed unnoticed, yet they look quite bright if you actually take the time to look directly at them. - OK, back up the hill a little again
I think I need to walk over that next saddle behind me to get my bearings. - I think I need to walk over that next saddle behind me to get my bearings. - Nice views, but there's a really steep drop between here and that wash down there
I'll continue a little further along the ridge - I'll continue a little further along the ridge - This must be an animal trail along the ridge
Until this, I haven't seen any possible signs of people in this area: no footprints, no litter, no trails. - Until this, I haven't seen any possible signs of people in this area: no footprints, no litter, no trails. - Ah! Just beyond the end of the animal trail, I spot a wash worth aiming for on the valley floor
I start my short descent to the wash. - I start my short descent to the wash. - Almost down at my chosen wash!
The wash looks like a road from this distance. - The wash looks like a road from this distance. - Now that I'm in the wash, I just have to follow it all the way down to Indian Springs Road
... or so I think. - ... or so I think. - A big hole dug by an animal in a quest for water
Animal footprints are all around, but no human ones. I wonder if any water was obtained from this hole--there's no water in the hole right now. - Animal footprints are all around, but no human ones. I wonder if any water was obtained from this hole. Moisture in the sand is clearly visible, but there's no water in the hole right now. - Faint pink light in the wash
I'm marvelling at this place because I'm pretty sure that people rarely come back here. It feels untouched. The silence is broken occasionally by light gusts of wind blowing past my ears. - I'm marvelling at this place because I'm pretty sure that people rarely come back here. It feels untouched. The silence is broken occasionally by light gusts of wind blowing past my ears. I almost hate to leave footprints in these pristine suroundings. - A quick stop at "Eyeball Rock," as I've decided to call it, for a photo break
This is one of the more unusual rocks I've ever seen. - This is one of the more unusual rocks I've ever seen. - Sunset near Eyeball Rock
This scenic wash doesn't have a name, according to my maps, but it's worthy of one. I'm going to call it Eyeball Rock Wash from now on. - This scenic wash doesn't have a name, according to my maps, but it's worthy of one. I'm going to call it Eyeball Rock Wash from now on. - Desert mallow
The desert mallows around here must be a different species than the one I planted in my backyard in San José. These flowers here tend to close at the end of the day (mine doesn't do that). - The desert mallows I'm seeing around here must be a different species than the one I planted in my backyard in San José. I've noticed that the flowers on these plants tend to close up at the end of the day (mine doesn't do that). - Yet more neato rock layering effects
Chocolate marble layer cake, anyone? - Chocolate marble layer cake, anyone? - Dusk is closing in here in Eyeball Rock Wash
I have about 15 minutes of daylight left. I thought I'd be back to Indian Springs Road by now. - I have about 15 minutes of daylight left. I thought I'd be back to Indian Springs Road by now. - Where am I?
Just as it's getting dark, Eyeball Rock Wash empties out to an open area. I don't see Indian Springs Road anywhere around. I'm glad I brought my flashlight; I may need it. - Just as it's getting dark, Eyeball Rock Wash empties out to an open area. I don't see Indian Springs Road anywhere around. I'm glad I brought my flashlight; I may need it. - OK, I admit it--I'm lost, but not totally
I unexpectedly see the lights of Baker off in the distance. It seems that Eyeball Rock Wash drains toward Kelbaker Road and not toward Indian Springs Road. - It seems that Eyeball Rock Wash drains toward Kelbaker Road and not toward Indian Springs Road as I presumed. I can see the lights of Baker off in the distance, which makes me think I'm somewhere on the fan between Kelbaker Road and the hills west of Indian Springs. If this is correct, I should be able to hike cross-country northward toward Baker and cross Indian Springs Road soon enough. From there, I will be able to hike up the road to my tent. Good thing I brought my flashlight... It's getting dark fast and the wonderful full moon won't rise to illuminate my surroundings until later in the evening. - I nervously hike cross-country by flashlight toward the lights of Baker, in search of the road back to my tent
If I decide that I'm completely lost, I can walk westward a couple of miles to Kelbaker Road if needed to get my bearings. I come across a clearing that looks like it might be Indian Springs Road, but isn't. - Hiking toward the distant lights of Baker is the only thing that makes sense right now. I cross numerous little drainage dips and hope that I haven't somehow crossed Indian Springs Road without realizing it. Tonight's full moon hasn't risen yet, so I can't see the surrounding hills that I'd probably recognize. A slight clearing looks like it might be Indian Springs Road. I follow it briefly, eastward, but there are no tire tracks, so it can't be my road. I notice a long-abandoned small trailer here; the access road seems to have grown in and no longer exist. This landmark confuses me. I didn't see this trailer while riding up Indian Springs Road yesterday. I must still be far from my road, or completely off track somehow. In the worst case, if I decide I'm completely lost, I can walk westward a couple of miles to Kelbaker Road to re-orient myself. - After 1/ 2 mile or so, I'm relieved to stumble across Indian Springs Road as hoped
I briskly walk up the dark, silent road by flashlight for a distance that turns out to be about two miles, arriving "home" around 19h. - After more walking toward the lights of Baker, I stumble across Indian Springs Road as hoped with a sigh of relief. I see now that I've unintentionally overshot my campsite by circumventing the hills behind my tent. I briskly up the dark, silent road by flashlight for a distance that turns out to be about two miles, arriving "home" around 19h. Tonight's add-boiling-water-to-bag meal is José's Chicken Mole from Backpacker's Pantry. The spicy flavour is satisfying, but it's too salty and not complex enough for my taste considering how heavily seasoned it is--like licking the residue inside of a can of tomato paste. The last time I tried this meal was during very hot weather when the salt content was more welcome. It's cold in the tent and I have no campfire tonight, darn it. Some clouds have moved in and are obscuring the rising full moon; some gusty winds have also moved in. One particularly strong gust lifts up one side of the tent, threatening to overturn it, then sets it back down and lifts up the other side for a few seconds. Fortunately, there's not too much more of that. It might not be as cold as it was last night. Maybe I'll sleep better tonight. - After I get home next week, I'll get a detailed USGS map and try to map today's hike in the Indian Springs and Cane Spring area
It looks like I missed Cane Spring after all, which is higher up on the lava flow. Also, I now see how I overshot my campsite on the way back to the tent... - It looks like I missed Cane Spring after all, which is higher up on the lava flow. Also, I now see how I overshot my campsite on the way back to the tent... Continue to Day 3: Indian Springs to Devil's Playground via Jackass Canyon.