Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2008: Mojave National Preserve Mountain-Bike Camping and Hike / Day 7: Mojave Desert springs: Butcher Knife Spring and Cottonwood Spring day hike, New York Mountains, Mojave National Preserve 62
After yesterday's inspiring but tiring trek, sleeping in late this morning is a goal, but I wake up at 8h from the hot sun cooking my tent. Fortunately, the ample breeze makes it easy to roll over and fall back asleep after opening the tent windows (and leaving the screens closed).
Today's nine-mile round-trip hike from my campsite at Butcher Knife Corral (4600 feet) will take me to springs on the northwest side of New York Mountains in Butcher Knife Canyon and Cottonwood Canyon (5300 feet). No long steep hills, just plenty of great scenery, solitude, joshua trees, spring water, and wildflowers on a perfect day no warmer than the low 80s.
No human contact today.
- After sleeping in late and a quick breakfast, I go for a short walk around my Butcher Knife Canyon campsite to see it by day
It was quite dark when I arrived here at the corral below Butcher Knife Canyon last night, so it's nice to see what it looks like by day. I slept so well last night, being pooped from the long day of biking and hike-a-biking. - This campsite is actually two miles down the wash from Butcher Knife Canyon, not in the canyon itself
The road I came in on last night is just behind the tent. The meadow here at 4600 feet was presumably used for cattle grazing, given the absence of native vegetation, except for joshua trees. Although it looks flat here, the meadow slopes gently down toward the Ivanpah Valley and Morning Star Mine Road. The subtle curve of Cima Dome forms a backdrop in this view. - A bit down the fan sits a fire ring next to which I was going to set up camp last night until I noticed goathead thorns all over
The fire ring probably hasn't been used yet this year judging by the young plants sprouting in it. This area seems seldom visited. Goathead thorns (puncture vine) are everywhere in this meadow; I don't think I've ever seen so many. My tires, shoes and saddlebags picked up lots of them just from passing through here last night. My tent rests in the background, with the New York Mountains a couple of miles further beyond. The two springs that I want to hike to today sit near the base of the mountains. Cottonwood Spring is roughly straight ahead two miles beyond, while Butcher Knife Spring is to the left, about two miles behind the corral in this view. - It's time to check out the old corral here below Butcher Knife Canyon
When visiting abandoned installations like this, I always wonder when they were last used. - Old cattle-watering trough in the abandoned corral below Butcher Knife Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
I'll find out shortly where water would come from to fill this cattle trough; for now, it's not obvious. Orange desert-mallow flowers add a nice touch. - I pluck a few items out of the mess inside my tent and stuff them into my backpack for the day's hike
My day pack includes the usual items (water, water filter, extra bottle, batteries, tripod, energy bars, apricots, and epipens in case of wasp sting), except for a flashlight, which I'm sure I won't need for some reason. - I begin the hike up the road to Cottonwood Canyon and Cottonwood Spring, at the base of the New York Mountains
I'll walk about two miles to reach Cottonwood Spring. At this time of year, there's a good chance that the spring might still be flowing, so I've brought my water filter and two empty bottles in case I can get some water there. I could use the extra water because I drank more yesterday on the way here than expected. - Erosion on the old road to Cottonwood Canyon has exposed some old rubber piping that had been buried under the road
These old pipes presumably once carried water to the corral at the bottom of Butcher Knife Canyon near my campsite (I had been wondering where water came from for the trough in the corral). - A mile north of my campsite is "the fork" in the road to Cottonwood Canyon and Butcher Knife Canyon
The right fork to Cottonwood Canyon and Cottonwood Spring is my route right now; the left fork leads to Butcher Knife Canyon and Butcher Knife Spring. I'll hike cross-country to Butcher Knife later this afternoon. - The joshua tree forest gets denser as one gets closer to Cottonwood Canyon at the bottom of the mountains
The joshua tree forest here is about as dense as the one across the valley in the Cima Dome area, which is reputed to be the largest and densest in the world. - 10 minutes later, as I approach the base of the New York Mountains, lush juniper trees like the one on the left begin to appear
Pinyon pines also begin to appear in this area, mixed in with the joshua trees, banana yuccas and cholla cacti. This is classic native vegetation in the Mid Hills and New York Mountains area of Mojave National Preserve. - Desert primrose
I try not to walk on these low-growing plants when I encounter them. - A pull-out on the road to Cottonwood Canyon reveals a nice camping area complete with a fire ring
When I first planned this trip, I thought I might reach this spot with my bike and camp here, but getting to the old corral 1.5 miles behind me turned out to be enough of a challenge! - After exploring the campsite area, I return to the main road toward Cottonwood Canyon
I'm almost there; Cottonwood Canyon with its spring should be just up ahead in the foothills. The hike so far has been pleasantly serene. Real silence, except for the wind, and no people are to be seen anywhere. - Here I am starting up Cottonwood Canyon at the base of the New York Mountains, Mojave National Preserve
The area is somewhat green, which I'm hoping is a sign that there may be water ahead. - Awesome: a tiny stream in Cottonwood Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
It's not much water, but this is the Mojave Desert at the end of April after all! I'll keep walking upstream and see how much more water exists here. - I reach an old wooden box which houses a camera that takes photos of wildlife
Presumably, this means that Cottonwood Spring itself is right there in the grassy area ahead. - Old sign on the wilderness-camera box at Cottonwood Spring
This BLM (Bureau of Land Management) sign must be at least 15 years old because National Parks Service took over administration of this area from BLM in the early 1990s when Mojave National Preserve was created. - Apparently, this dripping water is the source of Cottonwood Spring
The small quantity of water dripping out from under the tree roots here does not amount to very much. At least not right now; the flow is probably more significant during the wetter months. - There doesn't seem to be more water to discover in Cottonwood Canyon, so I climb up a small hill for a break with nice views
My tent is about two miles down below. The high peak in the background is Clark Mountain, the highest point of Mojave National Preserve, which I haven't gotten around to exploring yet. - Cottonwood Spring is aptly named since this cottonwood tree lives here
This tree is dumping some of its fluff and pollen into the air, which probably explains why I just had a sneezing fit (I'm allergic to cottonwood trees, which I hate to admit because I like them). - I walk back down to Cottonwood Spring to filter some water
It looks like the wilderness camera is going to get some choice shots of me and my water filter instead of a deer or a mountain lion. At the Mojave National Preserve Visitor Centre at Kelso Depot is an album of photos that were captured by cameras like this, so maybe I'll find my photo there one day. - The water that drips out from under the tree roots at Cottonwood Spring flows over this rock as a clear shiny film
Then the water hits the ground and creates the small stream below. I'm relieved to find water because I drank more of my water supply than expected yesterday on the way here. I can now relax knowing that I have no chance of running out of water while I'm in this area. - The meagre stream contains as much algae as it does water
There's also a fair amount of mud around, or is that something less sanitary? There's a reason that I'm using a water filter... - The stream is too shallow to pump water from it, so I dig a small depression to accept the intake hose of my water filter
Inevitably, this stirs up a lot of silt, so I'll have to wait a few minutes before I can begin to pump water. - Filtering water from Cottonwood Spring, Mojave National Preserve
I've waited five minutes, and the silt in the depression that I dug in the stream has cleared away. I'm filling my half-depleted two-litre Camelbak and two empty 1.5-litre water bottles. - Successful taste test of the water at Cottonwood Spring, Mojave National Preserve
The water from Cottonwood Spring tastes great filtered. It helps that the water is almost cold, so it's really refreshing on this warm day, the coolest water that I've drank since yesterday at Kelso Depot visitor centre. - The proud deed of pumping water completed, I begin my walk back down Cottonwood Canyon and toward Butcher Knife Canyon
The hike ahead of me should be interesting, and I might get lucky and find even more water at Butcher Knife Spring. - Lots of purple salvia dorrii flowers in this area
These sage flowers are especially striking when they occur next to yellow encelia flowers or orange desert-mallow flowers. Of course, they're always super-fragrant. - I leave the road and begin hiking cross-country to the Butcher Knife Canyon area, about a mile away
I dodge tough shrubs and the occasional cholla cactus as I make my way over to Butcher Knife Canyon. The straight-line hike is barely a mile, but cross-country hiking requires longer distances as one walks around shrubs, and never in a straight line. - I scramble over a few rocks on the way to Butcher Knife Canyon
I could have avoided this by taking a tiny detour, but rock scrambles are scenic and enjoyable. - Burned joshua tree near Butcher Knife Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
This dead joshua tree has more reach than most. The burned trees in this area suggest that the Mojave National Preserve "Hackberry Complex" lightning fires of 2005 reached this area. - For some reason, this meadow near Butcher Knife Canyon is resplendent with small white flowers
I haven't seen any of these flowers in the area except at this location. - As I get closer to Butcher Knife Canyon, I note some piles of mine tailings on the hillside in the distance
The piles appear to be colour-coded. I decide to head up to that area to look closer. - On the way up to the mine tailings, I cross a drainage with profuse desert-mallow blooms
I don't think I've ever seen so many desert-mallow blooms at once. Often, these plants don't grow higher than a foot or so. One exception is in my garden in San José where I planted one of these and it grew into a five-foot shrub, but it has more foliage and fewer flowers than the ones here. - Above the piles of tailings at the Butcher Knife Mine
So many orange desert-mallow flowers up here... The sandy area to the right that looks like road (and which is, sort of, a road) is the wash into which Butcher Knife Canyon drains, my route today. - Danger! Hazardous mine
A wire fence cordons off the lower mine shaft at the Butcher Knife Mine, decorated, of course, by more orange desert-mallow flowers. - Just above the lower mine at Butcher Knife Canyon is another big hole in the ground
This hole is not fenced off like the one below. - Many flowering phlox are found in this area
I haven't seen many of these elsewhere on this trip so far. - I walk down to the wash of Butcher Knife Canyon on the remains of the old mine access road
I'm not sure I would have noticed this eroded, grown-in road had it not been marked on my topo maps. - Some assorted old debris and cans are scattered near the wash
This must be where the miners' camp was located and it is marked on my map as "ruins." - Some of the debris here isn't all that old
I remember the design of these Dr. Pepper and Hires root beer cans from years ago. - An old Hunt's can
I guess tomato sauce was once consumed here. - A boulder pile and joshua trees greet me as I arrive at Butcher Knife Canyon wash
Three smaller rocks are carefully stacked in the slot between the big boulders. - Hiking up Butcher Knife Canyon, Mojave National Preserve
Boulder piles are frequent here in the New York Mountains, especially on the other side of the mountains and in the steeper areas, where they are more dramatic. - I spy a stream in Butcher Knife Canyon
This looks promising, so I continue walking up the wash. Will I get to filter more water today? - Yup, it's a stream
And there's even green grass here too. I'm almost surprised to find water here because some otherwise decent maps don't show Butcher Knife Spring here. - The stream in Butcher Knife Canyon looks like it might not go much further
Lots of algae, but not much water so far. Still, finding water in the Mojave Desert, no matter how little, can be exciting. - Just around the bend, I locate Butcher Knife Spring and get to the business of pumping some water into my near-empty Camelbak
The water trickles over this rock into a small pool below, just deep enough for the intake hose of my water filter. The water is clear and clean, much better than the water at Cottonwood Spring, and it's refreshingly cool. - I'd like to hike further up the canyon and over the hill to the other side of the New York Mountains if I had time
Instead, I turn around after filtering water and start the hike back to my campsite a couple of miles down the fan. - A rattlesnake startles me as I approach this big boulder along the Butcher Knife Canyon stream
There is a reason why desert hiking requires always looking where one puts hands and feet! I almost didn't see the snake stretched out across the ground in front of me like so many random twigs. Instinctively, I take several quick steps backward to get out of the rattlesnake's striking range. A large rock moves loudly beneath my feet, causing the snake to slither away with a hiss before I manage to snap a photo of it. - The excitement of the rattlesnake incident behind me, I return my focus to the hike away from Butcher Knife Canyon
It looks like only a few vehicles have travelled up the wash here since the final spring rains. Their tracks are visible, but smoothed out, with the texture of animal tracks superimposed on them. - Many burned pine cones are scattered on the ground around here
I notice that some of the pine cones still contain seeds, so I decide to taste one of the very well-roasted pine nuts. It tastes like a very dry, burnt nut, so I spit it out. - Colonies of flowering banana yucca populate some of the walls of the wash below Butcher Knife Canyon
These flowers have a wine-brown shading, unlike the whiter yucca flowers I saw along Death Valley Mine Road. - I'm still walking down the wash away from Butcher Knife Canyon, mindlessly, enjoying the scenery and the sunshine
I've got a good walking rhythm going now. The wash is quite wide and I'm back at the tire tracks after veering away from them for a while. - Hmmm... there are no more tire tracks in the wash here; where did they go, and where is the road that I was on?
I shouldn't be seeing that small hill ahead. I quickly realize that I've been following "bad" tire tracks for at least a mile, and that I forgot to stay on the "good" tire tracks that would have led out of the wash to the road back to my tent. If I keep walking straight ahead, I'll eventually end up down in the Ivanpah Valley below Morning Star Mine Road, which is not what I'm intending! - To my right is an old trailer on a hillside that I'm not expecting to see, so I start hiking cross-country toward my tent
According to my map, I must be a mile or so east of my tent. But with the endless forest of joshua trees between here and there, I can't tell exactly where I am. I wouldn't mind except that it will get dark shortly and there will be no moonlight this evening. I didn't bring my flashlight because I was sure that I wouldn't need it (I should know better). I like this area and would love to go for a walk up to that old trailer to see what remains up there. But there's no time for that right now. - I'm hiking briskly cross-country in the hope of crossing before dark the Cottonwood Canyon Road that will lead me to my tent
I'm really enjoying the sunset over Cima Dome in the distance, but am a bit nervous about not knowing my precise location, even though I know I'm not too far from my tent. My cross-country hike will get a lot slower if it gets dark because it will be harder to avoid the spiky and thorny bushes. I'm already getting some good scratches on my legs as my hiking speed increases and I get a bit careless. - After almost an hour of cross-country, I cross the old road at dusk and realize that I've overshot my campsite by about a mile
I've been lower on the fan than I thought, below my campsite. It's a relief to reach the old road and have last night's bicycle tracks guide me back to camp. - Ahhh, back at camp by Butcher Knife Corral and there's still a hint of daylight remaining; such perfect timing
Despite the awkward end to the day, it has been a great one. The moral of the story is to always bring a flashlight on day hikes (as if I didn't already know that). Supper tonight is Mountain House Jamaican-style Chicken and Rice, which turns out to be an excellent, spicy rendition of red beans and rice with a few chicken bits thrown in. After supper, really strong winds set in and I have to put on a sweater and my full-length jeans to stay warm, even though the temperature hasn't dropped all that much. The relentless wind is strong enough that the tent flaps back and forth endlessly, noisily, as if someone is beating on it on the exterior, loud enough to almost erase the sound of the trains rumbling in the valley below. I'm glad I placed large rocks inside the corners of the tent earlier today. My flashlight hanging from the tent ceiling sways back and forth continuously and I think I'm on a ship at sea in a storm. After midnight I realize that I'm going to need quite a bit more brandy if I want to fall asleep amongst this noise, so I indulge accordingly. My recently purchased tent is surviving the wind so far, but I wonder how much it will take. I fall asleep finally around 2h. - Butcher Knife Canyon hike as viewed in Google Earth
- Mojave National Preserve map, Day 7: Day hike to Cottonwood Spring and Butcher Knife Spring for water