Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / Fall 2010: Route 66 and Kelso Dunes Wilderness Bicycle Camping / Day 5: Day hike across Broadwell Dry Lake and to Broadwell Natural Arch, Bristol Mountains, Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area 79
An excellent sunny and brisk day for another hike into the Bristol Mountains, this time to the Broadwell Natural Arch (high of 49 degrees F). I won't see any people today.
Due to the cool weather, I'll only drink two litres of water all afternoon. An apple, three energy bars and some almonds keep me going. 15.8 hiking miles with about 1300 feet of elevation gain.
- Ugh, I can't wake up; I need more sleep, but I'm excited about today's hike to the Broadwell Natural Arch
Cold last night! High 20s and windy all night long. I woke up around 3h, due to a nightmare or a strong wind gust, which made me think I was in an earthquake and that the earth was rolling. Didn't get back to sleep until around 5h. - I drag myself out of my sleeping bag and step out into the cold sun to see where I am (I arrived here in the dark last night)
Product-placement photo for REI tents (fees not paid, LOL). I think I like it here near the former Old Dominion Mine, but I need more sleep. The sun shining on the tent is just enough to make it cozy inside. - While heating water for coffee, I walk around to familiarize myself with my new surroundings
I can zoom in on great views from my campsite across Broadwell Dry Lake and over to the Bristol Mountains in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area. I'll be hiking over that way in a while. - I notice a thorny pencil cholla cactus bush near my tent
I'm glad I didn't brush against this in the dark last night, or pick up any of its children on my bicycle tires! - After a quick breakfast and coffee, I start hiking, anxious to locate the old road that I couldn't find last night in the dark
The road to Old Dominion Mine is rather faint, but at least I can see now that it really does exist. - I continue hiking down the old road toward Broadwell Dry Lake and see some of my bicycle tracks from last night
Amazing! I didn't think I was on this road last night even though I was looking for it and following a GPS track of its location. So I was on the road, without knowing it... - I turn back for a last look at my tent against a Cady Mountains backdrop before it disappears for the day
At centre-left in the foreground is a faint road leading past my tiny tent in the middle of the photo. I couldn't find that road last night in the dark either, even though I was practically walking the 10-ton bike cross-country a few feet away from it. - I notice a very weathered old fence post with a metal claim marker as I approach Broadwell Dry Lake
"JHJ claims 5 x 13," is inscribed in the metal, whatever that means. - Several old fence posts here delineate the JHJ claim near Broadwell Dry Lake
I didn't see any of this when I passed by last night in the desert dark. - I hike across Crucero Road near Broadwell Dry Lake, surprised that it's rougher than I thought
When I rode here last night in the dark, I was thrilled to have a non-sandy surface that I could actually ride. Sure, it was bumpy, but it felt almost as smooth as pavement at the time. It must be really muddy here after a rain. - I arrive on the shores of Broadwell Dry Lake and begin the hike across the lake
The hike across the lake is about 1.25 miles at the lake's widest point. - Beginning the walk across Broadwell Dry Lake, I suddenly remember the sensation of walking across a big and empty dry lake
A few years ago, I walked across a dry lake in Death Valley National Park: "The Racetrack," known for it's moving rocks. - A lone creosote bush pops out of the ground at Broadwell Dry Lake
Broadwell Dry Lake has numerous plant outcrops like this, and they're all as photogenic as this one. - Someone drove across Broadwell Dry Lake a while ago when it was still a bit wet
These tire tracks will have to suffice as visual amusement, since there are no moving rocks on the lake bed here like the ones at The Racetrack in Death Valley. - I sit down for a few minutes on the hard, crackled surface of Broadwell Dry Lake
This wide, relaxing expanse with blue background is pretty much what I seek when I go to a beach. Fortunately, a proposed solar-power plant that would have ruined this desert beach was withdrawn recently. - Running down the middle of Broadwell Dry Lake is the remains of the former Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad bed
Looking south toward Ludlow and Route 66. This railroad was built a few years before 1910. Apparently, this segment of the railroad to Ludlow was abandoned in 1933 after a major flood in the area. - Looking north on the old T&T Railroad grade running down the middle of Broadwell Dry Lake
As with most railroad beds, it's gravel, so it wouldn't make a very good bicycling surface. However, the railroad bed is open to anyone who wants to drive it instead of the road skirting the west side of the lake that I used. - After 100 years, the old T&T railroad berm running across Broadwell Dry Lake is still raised a couple feet above the lake
My tent is somewhere in front of the low hills just on the other side of the lake. - I continue my walk across Broadwell Dry Lake toward the Bristol Mountains
I'm now in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area: Broadwell Dry Lake on the east side of the old railroad bed is in the Wilderness Area, while the part of the lake on the west side is not. I don't see any signs here... - An anomalous row of bushes grows out into Broadwell Dry Lake near the eastern shore
This could be the remains of a former berm across the lake. Long, straight patches of brush don't seem to grow anywhere on the lake bed except here. - Hmmm... I think I'll call this row of brush "The Broadwell Dry Lake Pier"
This is as close to a pier jutting out into the ocean as one will find out here in the desert. - I reach the eastern shore of Broadwell Dry Lake and begin the hike up the fan toward the Bristol Mountains
The cracked clay surface of the dry lake transitions to a gravelly area, and then typical creosote-bush scrub begins a short distance ahead. - On the fan are a few fence posts, also from "JHJ claims," like the ones on the other side of Broadwell Dry Lake
One of these is marked "87 x 111." - I take a look back at Broadwell Dry Lake and the Cady Mountains as I make my way up the fan
I haven't seen any people since I left Ludlow yesterday afternoon, but I did notice a lone vehicle driving the road on the other side of the lake a few minutes ago. - Until now, I hadn't encountered a stray balloon yet today
Phew, I was getting worried that maybe I wouldn't find any today. I stuff the balloon in my backpack for later disposal. I see a jackrabbit darting off across the fan, my only critter sighting today. - Like most alluvial fans, this one is a bit rocky, so hiking requires some attention to where one's foot goes with each step
When possible, I try to walk in the smoother, sandy drainage areas, but they don't always head in the direction I want to go (straight ahead and slightly to the left). - Approaching a rocky outcrop on the Bristol Mountains fan, I decide to check it out
I need a break from my trudge up the fan and the USGS quad map on my Delorme GPS indicates a prospect at that location. - A little further up the fan, I join the wide wash that I'll follow into the Bristol Mountains
I note a few rust-colored desert trumpets from last year, as well as smoke trees and catclaw acacias. Though now closed in an official Wilderness Area, the old road running up the wash apparently still gets occasional vehicular usage. - This little guy might be a young barrel cactus sprout
I've seen a few small adult barrel cacti growing on the fan so far on today's hike. - I come around a bend and a "gate" welcomes me back to the Bristol Mountains
This wash is only about 1.5 miles north of the area of the Bristol Mountains that I hiked two days ago. - I pass through "the gate" and see a wider expanse beyond
The rock walls here are heavily eroded, since this is a significant choke point for water flowing down from the Bristol Mountains. - I decide to check out a narrow side wash that appears to run parallel to my route to the natural arch
I note a necklace of rock around the brown hills ahead, which must be part of the Broadwell Mesa formation. - The erosion from flowing torrents of water in this little side wash is significant
I check my GPS and realize that I should climb over the little hill on my left and down into the main wash in order to stay on track. - I climb up the little hill and look down to a small natural tank in the drainage, dry right now
All those animal footprints in the sand signify recent visits that ended with disappointment. The next good rain, which may be soon, should provide an awaited water refill. - The dry stream that feeds the dry natural tank looks benign, despite the deep erosion that I just saw downstream
I could follow this stream channel and end up somewhere in the southern area of Broadwell Mesa where I hiked two days ago. - I pause to take in the views from this berm above Broadwell Natural Arch Wash, spared from erosion
I can see all the way down to Broadwell Dry Lake and over to the Cady Mountains. I can't quite see my campsite though. - I zoom in from my perch on the rock outcrop for a better view of Broadwell Natural Arch
Surprise! I was expecting something bigger than this, and I was expecting it to be close to ground level, not up high in a rock outcrop. - I turn around and realize that I'm looking at the Broadwell Natural Arch, so I climb a rocky outcrop to get a better view
I knew I was getting close, but I didn't expect it to be in front of me just yet. - I have cell-phone reception here at Broadwell Natural Arch, so I check and send a few text messages
Happy Thanksgiving to you too, Choon. I am so absorbed by this trip that I had incredibly forgotten that today is Thanksgiving Day! Then again, I'm known to occasionally forget my own birthday... - I climb down from the rock outcrop and walk up the wash to check out Broadwell Natural Arch up close
The old road is still visible here where it climbs up out of the wash. - Inside this cavelet in the Broadwell Natural Arch formation is a ribbed ceiling
Presumably, the thinner parts of the ceiling are weaker. Weak enough to break under the weight of a human body (I'm not about to test this)? Pieces of rock have broken off over time and are sliding down the slope. - It's time to climb up the rocks and poke around the Broadwell Natural Arch formation
This creosote bush no doubt enjoys the views down to Broadwell Dry Lake from here. - The Broadwell Natural Arch formation is full of eroded little caves in the rock
Apparently, a natural arch can be formed when erosion removes both the front and back sides of one of the little caves. So, many of the little caves here might become natural arches at some point in the future. - A few Rush milkweeds are flowering here right now (Asclepias subulata)
Thanks for the plant ID, Lee. I would not have guessed this is a milkweed. I also saw a few of these during my hike along the fan on the west side of the Bristol Mountains two days ago. - This cavelet in the Broadwell Natural Arch formation appears to be inhabited part-time
The small black scat here tells a story. - I've just noticed that there are two little natural arches up in the rock here, not just the one
Hmmm... I wonder if perhaps I have already seen both of them, but just not at the same time. - Broadwell Natural Arch North
- Broadwell Natural Arch South
- If I stand back far enough, I can see both the north and south natural arches at the same time
...but if I stand back too far, or at the wrong angle, one or both of the arches tend to disappear. - The Broadwell Natural Arch area is fun because of the mini-caves everywhere that invite exploration
I haven't seen any Native American designs here, but it does seem like the kind of place where they might exist. - Close-up of the bird's nest high up in the rock wall in the Broadwell Natural Arch formation
I haven't heard or seen any birds around here, so perhaps nobody is home up there today. Or maybe the residents are hiding and just waiting for me to go away. - Birds use these two cavelets high up in the rock wall, and one of them is occupied by a nest
Only flying critters can make it up into these places. You don't want to be standing underneath when that white stuff splatters down the rock wall from their perches. - I scramble around, checking out a few more mini-caves, then decide it's time to check out and resume my hike
I could easily spend more time here. - I climb back down and begin a clockwise loop around the Broadwell Natural Arch outcrop before hiking back to camp
It's already getting close to 15h and it will be pretty much dark in two hours. The final part of today's hike will be in darkness again. - The Broadwell Natural Arch formation has the shape of a horse's saddle when viewed from the southeast
I didn't try climbing up to either ridge beyond the middle saddle, but it looks like it would be possible for someone with more rock-climbing skills than me. - Just beyond the natural arch is Broadwell Mesa and greyish-green minerals coming to the surface everywhere
I was thinking that I might make it further up the wash here today (toward the upper left), and maybe even climb up to this part of Broadwell Mesa. More reasons to learn to get up and start hiking earlier. Ha! Me, get up early? - I circle the Broadwell Natural Arch formation and notice that the drop-offs aren't all as steep on the north side
From this side, it looks more like a pile of rocks and earth than a giant rock outcrop. - On the north side of the Broadwell Natural Arch formation, I notice a few holes in the rock that I didn't see earlier
I've just programmed myself to hike back to my tent, but really, I should climb this little hill and look closer. - From the north side of Broadwell Natural Arch, I take one last look at the hike unhiked beyond
I made it to the south end of Broadwell Mesa two days ago, but this central part of Broadwell Mesa will have to be added to a "future Kelso Dunes Wilderness hike" list. - The hike out of the Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area back down to Broadwell Dry Lake begins in earnest
Layers of blue hills chill out in the desert distance. - Smoke trees (Psorothamnus spinosus) seem to really like this Bristol Mountains wash
I recall many smoke trees in a similar Bristol Mountains wash 1.5 miles away when I was hiking two days ago. They like this elevation and the occasional water they get. - This lone stem peering out from the gravel reminds me of a chia sage from last year
Just guessing... - These three holes in the wall look too regular to be natural
I don't walk closer to inspect, but these holes look from a distance like they might be old prospects not indicated on my map. - Back at "The Gate," it's time for me to prepare for check-out from the Bristol Mountains
A beam of sunlight passes through the slot, prodding me to exit. - I exit "The Gate" in the Bristol Mountains
"You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave." After two hikes here this week in the Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area, yes, I like this place, and yes, it's very worthy of the official Wilderness designation. - Beyond "The Gate," I begin the hike down the fan toward Broadwell Dry Lake
I stop for a brief water and energy-bar break here while the outer parts of the Bristol Mountains begin collecting the end-of-day light. - Dry ivory tufts from last year dot a black volcanic outcrop in the Bristol Mountains foothills east of Broadwell Dry Lake
The larger hills in the background are waiting for the impending sunset. - The cold sun starts to set behind the Cady Mountains on the far side of Broadwell Dry Lake
My tent is over there somewhere! - The Bristol Mountains behind me pick up the gorgeous gold of sunset as I hike down the rocky fan toward Broadwell Dry Lake
I'm hiking quickly, but trying to be careful at the same time. I haven't sprained an ankle lately while hiking on these uneven surfaces! - Hmmm... this installation on the Bristol Mountains fan is interesting
An old wooden grave marker next to some upright modern plastic pipe? - Hmmm... I see nothing about an old grave, despite the weathered cross, and the plastic post looks very recent
Also, there is a land-survey marker here. Is all this meant simply to indicate the survey marker? - The fence post here is clearly old, but the adjacent upright plastic pipe clearly is not
Painted on the plastic pipe is "Sunstar." Is this a recent remnant from when this area was being considered to become wasteland forever by virtue of a solar-power installation being built here? - I continue hiking down the Bristol Mountains alluvial fan toward Broadwell Dry Lake; it's a beautiful, peaceful world out here
Fortunately, the Broadwell Dry Lake area is being considered for future Wilderness designation. Hopefully, a few of the main dirt roads will remain open to provide basic recreational access while protecting the area from unnecessary development. - I walk into the sunset as I head toward Broadwell Dry Lake
In the bluish shade of sunset, the flat expanse actually looks like a blue lake. It's a mirage! - Behind me, the Bristol Mountains pick up a nice orange glow
It occurs to me that I didn't see any signs of bighorn sheep while up in these hills today. - In just a few seconds the orange glow on the Bristol Mountains has melted into pink
It's amazing how quickly the colourful lighting changes at sunset. - It's almost 17h, and a little sunlight still remains as I begin the hike back to camp across Broadwell Dry Lake
I'm glad that I've managed to finish most of the hike down the fan in daylight, which makes it much easier to avoid slipping on the small rocks strewn about. - The hike across Broadwell Dry Lake in the still darkness is really pleasant; then I settle in for a cold evening in the tent
To amplify the experience, sometimes I turn off my flashlight while walking across the dry lake, since there are no rocks to trip over. The sky is so dark that I can see the Milky Way. It's a beautiful but cold night, expected to drop into the low 20s. Once back at the tent and no longer walking, I'm cold, so I put on all my clothes, including my wool hat and scarf. Supper is instant Mountain House Chicken and Rice for a hot and satisfying 800-calorie meal, with cognac for dessert. The wind died down this afternoon and I'm hoping it stays that way. I curl up in my sleeping bag, feeling a bit chilled, and get to sleep by 23h. - Elevation profile of hiking route to Broadwell Natural Arch, Bristol Mountains, Kelso Dunes Wilderness Area
15.8 hiking miles with about 1300 feet of elevation gain.